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Noel Higgins
Saturday 23rd June 2018
8:17 am U.K.

HI guys,

My turn to ask. Has anyone experienced and fixed a fault that causes the capstan to go really fast whilst the forward pickup reel does nothing at all?

Has just happened to two machines I am working on so thought I might ask.

cheers Noel

Roderick
Saturday 23rd June 2018
1:49 am U.K.

[email protected]

Lydia,

If you want to send your machine to Noel in Melbourne, I can recoomend SmartSend (www.smartsend.com.au)

I have found them reliable and very cost effective.

Had really bad experiences with Couriers Please, twice equipment arrived badly damaged.

Noel Higgins
Thursday 21st June 2018
10:10 am U.K.

Lydia,

Re fixing your SLHF950. I am in Melbourne. I can probably fix your machine. Transports screws not being inserted do not make the machine dead that sounds like a power supply issue. The lack of screws usually makes the plastic tray slides subject to damage. They can also be repaired.

My contact details are at http://www.palsite.com/directory.html

regards Noel

Anthony
Wednesday 20th June 2018
5:52 am U.K.

Frandid :

Malheureusement, faute de trouver une solution, j'ai vendu l'appareil hier.

Un type l'a pris pour avoir des pièces de côté.

Je passe à autre chose car je ne m'y connais pas et pas les moyens de faire une réparation.

J'ai repéré deux betamax près de chez moi. Je dois aller y jeter un coup d'œil. Ca semble être des machines qui fonctionnent.

Frandid
Tuesday 19th June 2018
4:17 pm U.K.

PS : Je pense que tu as compris que Noel t'a dit de bien nettoyer le bloc CTRL (fixe qui contient la tête audio et surtout celle du signal de contrôle) car dans un cas extrême d'encrassement de cette tête le scope peut s'arrêter ne détectant plus le signal de contrôle. Il a aussi remarqué comme moi que la bande parait bien détendue sur le côté droit ce qui enclenche le mécanisme de protection qui arrête la bande immédiatement si c'est le cas. Il peut y avoir un problème de tension de bande, sur le SL-C9 il y a un réglage, mais il faut le maîtriser...

Frandid
Tuesday 19th June 2018
4:04 pm U.K.

Anthony :

Effectivement après avoir vu ta vidéo je remarque que le tambour de têtes tourne donc ce n'est pas le hall effect sensor. Mais tu as bien fait de le gratter par le dessous, il faut que toute trace de marron disparaisse, moi je l'ai fait sur mes 3 beta ( SL-HF950 ES, SL-C9 F et SL-T50ME ) après avoir eu le problème sur le 950. J'ai tout gratté avec une aiguille puis nettoyé au coton tige imbibé d'alcool et attendu un bon moment que ça sèche avant de rebrancher. Je suspecte plutôt un détecteur de bande ou un C.I. / transistor claqué. Ou bien un problème de tension, ça me parait un peu détendu côté droit. Pendant les 2 secondes où il tourne tu as le temps de voir une image même très courte et un son ou pas ?? C'est un achat récent que tu as pris en l'état ou un appareil qui marchait et qui a développé la panne récemment ? C'est sans doute un truc de 3 fois rien facile à réparer mais le plus difficile c'est de trouver !

J'ai moi-même eu des problèmes avec mes 3 beta, normal, combien d'appareils récents fonctionneront encore dans plus de 35 ans ??!!

Kevin (UK) Gabriel (Espagne) et Noel (Australie) sont parmi ceux qui m'ont le plus aidé, je ne suis pas pro mais assez bricoleur sur ce type de machines, j'espère qu'ils voudront bien se pencher sur ton cas. Si tu l'envoyais à Kevin je pense qu'il te le réparerait sans problème mais ce ne sera pas gratuit naturellement, surtout avec le port aller et retour, il faut voir si le jeu en vaut la chandelle, si tu tiens beaucoup à cet appareil ou pas, si les têtes vidéo sont bonnes, etc. voila.

La mécanique ressemble un peu à celle de mon C9 F mais je n'ai pas ce rectangle noir, sans doute une protection supplémentaire comme il est portable.

Si tu étais près de chez moi je te dirais de passer avec ton Beta histoire de voir ça, mais je suis dans le sud, prés de Salon de Provence.

Lydia
Monday 18th June 2018
1:38 am U.K.

+61432996336

Hi Kevin I'm in Sydney - Inner West

Anthony
Sunday 17th June 2018
1:53 pm U.K.

Frandid :

Tu es le premier français que je rencontre, qui connait le sujet.

J'ai eu de la peine à trouver des réponses. Chacun me donne une piste différente.

Cette colle marron, je l'ai gratter sans avoir besoin de tout démonter. Mais ça n'a pas suffit.

Le problème est surement ailleurs. Dommage pour une machine qui semble presque fonctionner.

Il emmène la bande, comme il faut... Par contre, un peu de mal à réagir à l'eject, au démarrage.

Frandid
Sunday 17th June 2018
11:55 am U.K.

Hi David

I am trying to find if I made pictures of this, because my SL-C9 F is on a TV stand with 11 other heavy devices (Betamax , VHS, Laserdisc, DVD, BLu-ray, HDD etc.) plus several hdmi and scart switches and a Samsung 75" led 3D HD TV on top of it and although it is on 5 wheels given the weight and the number of cables I hesitate to move it just to take a picture.

I placed the scart in the zone you describe but not at the exact place you mention because with all connections and wires around I wasn't sure it would fit. I think it is slightly under, but not sure.

I simply connected all 3 inputs and 3 outputs to the BNC/RCA connectors and it works fine. If I find a photo I will send it to you.

Frandid
Sunday 17th June 2018
11:10 am U.K.

Anthony : cela ressemble beaucoup à la panne classique du hall effect sensor grillé car court-circuité à cause de la colle qu'ils mettaienr dessus (on ne sait pourquoi) qui a pris l'humidité ambiante et est devenue conductrice, cela se produit avec pratiquement tous les betamax Sony qui ont rencontré une zone humide un jour. Il faut complètement démonter le tambour de têtes pour le remplacer et ce n'est pas facile quand on n'est pas un pro, je l'ai fait une fois sur un SL-HF 950ES et c'est une des réparations les plus délicates que j'ai effectuées sur un appareil.

Tous ceux qui ont un Sony Beta devraient nettoyer complètement le hall effect sensor de leur machine en enlevant les traces marron qui recouvrent ses pattes et vont causer très bientôt le court-circuit, il est facilement visible par le dessous et on peut y parvenir avec un coton tige mais on ne peut pas le remplacer sans démonter et extraire le tambour de têtes.

I don't know if you are french, I am, anyway this will be a good way to pratice your french if you are an english man living in France :-)

Noel Higgins
Friday 15th June 2018
11:31 pm U.K.

Anthony,

The F1 machines are very well built but being portable and heavy can suffer if dropped. I have had trouble with a number of F1s that have breaks in the double sided boards. A lack of tracking pulse to the right parts of the circuit produce the problem you are seeing. There might be another cause but I would use a CRO to see if the tracking signal is present and gets where it is supposed to go. First make sure it is not just a dirty ACE head meaning that the pulse is not being detected at all in the first place.

regards Noel

david grant
Friday 15th June 2018
2:22 pm U.K.

[email protected]

Hi frandid I was thinking of the left hand corner where the rear cover, which looks like that piece can be cut out, how did you do it ?. I mean where did you do the connections and how many?. I also use freeview and do that by using the signal through the tuner.The other reason is My TV has not got a ariel input it has a large silver box which all the connectors run through, and I have not tried yet but ,I think I can use my sky Q or my HD box to connect wirelessly, and use the wireless connection from my laptop to use the computer input, and have the screen as input from the laptop.I am also embarking on using a old 1975 TV,of which I have 2 very good examples both work and there was one model which had a lift up lid which revealed a ,Phillips VCR,N1501,Iintend to use either a sony C9 or a 950. I am also looking for good used tapes,I can travel within a reasonable distance to collect as I use a sack trolley which ,I travel on the train with,maybe if you documented when you fitted your scart you could if possible mail me some photos,I did hover over your name your mail details did not show many thanks David

Anthony
Thursday 14th June 2018
7:28 pm U.K.

[email protected]

Hi everyone,

I found a Sony SL-F1 (secam version, I live in France).

Here's the video of the problem : https://we.tl/3lWJOK6mOE

Stops after 2 seconds (play or rewinds function).

I put oil/grease on the axe of the Reel Motor. I also removed the old glue.

The only thing I didn't touch is the Capstan Motor and the Video Head element.

I'm not a pro, I don't want to do mistakes.

Thank you

Noel Higgins
Thursday 14th June 2018
6:14 pm U.K.

Unnix,

I have actually repaired at least three F30 /F60s with the broken last gear tooth problem. Better than wrecking another F30 for the rare spare.

They break because spring tension is constantly on them when the tape is loaded, the thickness of the plastic under the tooth at that point is thinner and the plastic becomes brittle over time.

This is how you do it. It is like the principle of doing a bridge in dental work.

Clean the part up to remove all grease from the gear and broken tooth

Plastic weld the gear back in place with a soldering iron tip (carefully)

Get a pin, the type used to hold seams when doing dress work and measure its diameter

Use a drill to drill a hole through the centre of the last tooth and the next one back from it

Bend the pin in a "U" shape as close to square as you can get it using small pliers with the sides of the "U" matching the space between the holes.

You may have to try a number of pins as some are more brittle than others and wont handle a 90 degree bend needed in creating the "U" shape.

Insert it into the holes of both teeth

Bend over the points poking through slightly (about 30 degrees) and clip off the excess just beyond the point so as to avoid it pulling out under tension. (It shouldn't as the bends should hold)

I can send you pictures of a repaired gear if you need them.

regards Noel (Betaheaven.com) in Australia

Frandid
Thursday 14th June 2018
3:27 pm U.K.

Hi David.

I put a scart socket on the back of my SL-C9 F a long time ago and it works fine !

But be careful, in fact there is only a précise place where you can fit it, otherwise you might have problems with some boards.

Weber1600
Wednesday 13th June 2018
10:25 pm U.K.

Seat124

K Lambert

I have polished the folding guides that fit in the black plastic ..

I have also cleaned and polished the drum where the ribbon travels ..

By the time problem solved !!!

Now I have to apply the correct tension to the belt, both with the tensioners and with the RV002 potentiometer.

What tension is applied to the tape ???

uunix
Tuesday 12th June 2018
8:09 pm U.K.

Thanks Kevin, will email you.

K Lambert
Tuesday 12th June 2018
8:03 pm U.K.

[email protected]

Unnix:

I have a few left of those otherwise hard to get side gears that seem to get one broken tooth after time.

I can also service /refurb your domestic beta's (what models are they?) and SVHS Panasonic deck (model no). Is it the 'K' mechanism as I have l a lot of experience with their common issues.

The betacam maybe more tricky but I have successfully sorted one such machine out

If you want to e-mail me hover over my name and my e-mails address will be revealed. We can discuss things further.

Regards..................Kevin

uunix
Tuesday 12th June 2018
2:20 pm U.K.

Hi there, just found this site, brilliant.

I have taken apart my SL F30 as it was ejected/loading etc erratically. I found on the loading mechanism in the gears a tooth has fell off.

I am located in the UK (Stourbridge - just south of Birmingham), does anyone know of where I could obtain some new gears?

Also, does anyone know of a company that services all types of VTR equipment, from the consumer Betamax players I have (both faulty) to Betacam, and Panasonic SVHS editing decks?

Kind Regards

david grant
Tuesday 12th June 2018
1:26 pm U.K.

[email protected]

hello noel I did get your message both times I will try to reply later. I have just removed the DC-DC convertor from the C9 ,I recently got. I decided to take it apart and look at its condition.I decided this because there is no indication although I was told it had been replaced,althou there is no indication of how many hours or years since it was replaced.I also think bearing in mind how easy it is to change them rather than have it fail later.I would like to ask have you ever attempted to fit a scart socket to a C9 ? ,I think there is enough room and the input and output wires could be attached to the phono connections or their take off points.The reason for that is because 2 tv sets,I use are Sharp Duos ones, and the earliest one does not have a ariel/rf input/output plugs,this set works very well but has a large silver input box which the connections are fed into,after that the input to the TV is done using a large heavy duty ribbon cable,the tv works very well its, a 37 inch ,LED type.i also thinking of scart because the sky H D box and the sky Q system does not have rf /ariel output feed for the tv set.on the subject of TV sets,I am collecting a 1974 Dynatron ,CTV22A ,26 inch model in full working order with a very good tube,and a ultrasonic remote control,on Sat 23rd June,as before there is no rush for the required parts just yet probaly September time regards David

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