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Arturo
Sunday 22nd October 2017
11:49 am U.K.

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Hello, i have a problem with my beta model SL-F55E and i wonder if any of you knows how to fix it, i assume the machine works fine but when i insert the tape and push it the machine tries to move it and automaticaly pulls it out i have cleaned the switch that detects the tape at the right and it keeps the same, plus i noticed that two retractable pins on the moving circle that loads the tape to the head are broken, i wonder if i could find a replacament for those, thank you for your help :D

Frandid
Friday 20th October 2017
3:55 am U.K.

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Gabriel is right Misha, if you buy ntsc machines and want to play them in a european country the best is to purchase a 250v > 110v external transformer, they are cheap if you don't need too much power, and if you want to try several machines after buying them without opening them in case you'll have to return them and ask for a refund if they don't work correctly it would be interesting for you.

Gabriel
Thursday 19th October 2017
6:23 pm U.K.

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Oh, that makes a lot of sense. There is something similar with the SL-F30PS, only having 220 and 240V options in the transformer.

I've been looking the service manual of the F30 and it has little in common with the HFR30, regarding voltage rails as you have listed. Also having a look just in case there were any available manual for HFR50 of HFR60 which seem quite similar. No luck either.

I would consider using a step down transformer. But if you find a better solution, please let us know.

Kind regards,

Gabriel

Misha Berghege
Thursday 19th October 2017
10:48 am U.K.

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Hi Gabriel,

I was hoping for the same, but I'm afraid the only unused connection on the transformer is for the USA 120V. That would make sense to me as these machines were only sold in the USA and Japan. I'm still trying to find info on that...

Gabriel
Thursday 19th October 2017
8:28 am U.K.

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Misha,

There is a small chance that the transformer inside your HFR30 also had the 230V wiring. Just have a look to the primary side if you have some unused connection. If so, I would first measure the resistance of the coils (should be double the reading of the normal one).

However, if all the above is affirmative, I would remove the transformer from the PSU before supplying mains and measure the output voltages.

I look forward to know your progress.

By the way, red beta units are really cool.

Misha Berghege
Thursday 19th October 2017
12:36 am U.K.

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Small update on my SL-HFR30: I picked the machine up today at the post office (it's been there for over a week but they didn't notify me). It's the Japanese version in red, and it looks brand new; the only flaw I could find is that the "it's a Sony" sticker on the tuning cover is slightly peeling.

I already wrote that I want to convert it to 230V, and I thought up 2 ways to do this using original Sony parts:

The SL-30MD and SL-20 type 2 have a voltage selectable version of the same PSU, which would be the ideal solution, but you won't find one of those on this side of the world... The other idea I have is to replace the T901 and I was hoping to use one from a SL-F30, however the output on those is quite different, so now I'm back to digging through the service doc's...

These are the values I need according to the print board: 17V/17V/-20V/GND/45V/AC 4.2V/AC 4.2V

Rich
Wednesday 11th October 2017
2:14 pm U.K.

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P.s.

The recordings on the vtc6500 play back perfectly fine on my other betas with no interference.

Rich.

Rich
Wednesday 11th October 2017
2:12 pm U.K.

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Hi Frandid.

It's definitely the vcr. I've got it hooked up to my LG 3d led tv along with my Sony slhf100, Sony slc9, Sanyo vtc9300 and none of those have picture interference.

I also have a Panasonic plasma which interferes with beta vcr pictures.

I've connected the vtc6500 to 3 different tv's including an old trinitron and it still has those white sparkley dots 😡😡

Regards

Rich.

Frandid
Wednesday 11th October 2017
12:32 pm U.K.

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Hi Rich

Are you using a modern flat TV (Plasma LCD LED)or a vintage TV ? That looks very much like the kind of interference I discovered between my former plasma TV and my SL-T50ME / SL-HF950ES and SL-C9 F. I wrote older posts about this problem here in the past you can still find them. Now I almost dont' have this trouble anymore since I replaced my Plasma 45 LG TV for a new Samsung 75 3D LED TV. (Yet I had to place the 3 betas not too close to the TV otherwise it reappears, at least 50 cm).

There is one easy way to be sure these white lines stripes and dots are not an interference with your TV : Play a tape and record it on an other modern VCR (if possible a HDD, DVD, USB, Blu-ray...). when the recording starts put the TV off for one minute, then put it on again and watch your recording : If the interference has been recorded while the TV was off it's a genuine technical problem as Kevin and Gabriel suggest, if it hasn't been recorded there is no problem, it is only a strong interference with your TV as I had with my plasma, you'll just have to place the VCR away from 3 or 4 meters at least from your TV set and the white lines and dots will disappear.

Rich
Monday 9th October 2017
12:24 pm U.K.

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Hi Kevin.

Thank you for your reply. I'm still waiting for the contact cleaner to arrive so I can try what Gabriel suggested.

I'll let you know the outcome.

Many thanks

Rich.

K lambert
Monday 9th October 2017
11:22 am U.K.

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Hi Richard:

As Gabriel has correctly informed you the reel motor on some Sanyo's have high miles and will be either clogged with debris from the brushes debris or the brushes will be severely worn. When that happens you WILL get sporadic and uniform white flashes on the tv screen that cannot be erased. They won't be like random drop out's or tracking 'noise' and will only appear when this motor is turning. In the Sanyo's even when in 'PAUSE' mode the reel motor still turns and the clutch slips to the take up spool. The capstan motor stops moving the tape. In the Sony's the solenoid pulls the pinch roller away from the tape and the reel spool motor stops.

Also occassionaly on the Sanyo Reel motor the commutator can suffer with one spot having it's coating worn off.This will cause the reel motor to stick. Especially from stop.

Parts can be interchanged inside these motors too as some will have worn items and not others.

It is quite rare though.

If a reel motor has been changed out on the Sanyo 'M' (10,20,30,40) series it's usually down to high mileage.

The reel motor size for the 5000,5150,6500 and 5300 and 5400 is slightly bigger than for the 'M' NX 100 series. I've seen a few M40 's with the bigger one installed and usually the hi-Fi heads are getting quite worn by then.

Hope this helps...................Kevin

Rich
Sunday 8th October 2017
3:40 pm U.K.

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Hi Gabriel.

I've just ordered some electrical contact cleaner. When it arrives I'll try what you suggested and let you know.

Many thanks

Rich.

Gabriel
Sunday 8th October 2017
2:44 pm U.K.

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Hello Rich,

If you think you need one of those motors, I have some of them in good condition for my spares. I could sell one of them at a reasonable price.

Just make sure yours is faulty and please let me know.

Kind regards,

Gabriel

Rich
Sunday 8th October 2017
11:36 am U.K.

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*good used one* (damn little keyboard) 😂

Rich
Sunday 8th October 2017
11:17 am U.K.

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Hi Gabriel.

Thank you for the reply. I really appreciate it.

If the motor is worn, do you know anywhere I can buy a good used on release?

Regards

Rich.

Gabriel
Sunday 8th October 2017
10:48 am U.K.

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Rich,

According to the symptoms you describe, it might be due to a worn motor which is injecting noise spikes into the electronics.

I would first try to spray contact cleaner the motor (it is sometimes a temporal remedy) in the underside. You shall remove a small sticker covering the access to the brushes.

This motor is easy to access, just flip the video down and open the bottom cover. It is a black motor driving the tape.

Just give it a go to discard other issues.

Regards,

Gabriel

Rich
Saturday 7th October 2017
8:20 pm U.K.

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Hi all.

I just received a Sanyo vtc6500 that I won on flebay, very surprisingly it all seems to be working fine apart from a band of white sparkley dots which moves slowly from the top of the screen and gradually moves down to the bottom and back again. I've done a recording on it and played it back through another beta vcr and no sign of those white dots. They are also moving up and down the screen when the picture is paused also.

When I first tried it after plugging it in the colour was really bad with lots of white squiggles on all of the colours, that has gone now. I don't know if that's connected?

Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks

Rich.

Gabriel
Saturday 7th October 2017
8:53 am U.K.

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Hi Misha,

Now I better understand your needs. I know there are some american machines with selectable mains voltage. For example, the SL-20 was built in two variants (type 1 and 2, one of them was voltage selectable).

I haven't seen such a feature in that "HiFi-ready" model, but as long as they share chassis with the SL-20, it might be a possibility. However, looking at Google images I haven't seen the rear switch.

Other (dramatical) solution would be using a step down autotransformer.

Sorry not being more specific but my knowledge on American players is limited.

Regards

Gabriel

Misha Berghege
Saturday 7th October 2017
6:16 am U.K.

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Hi Gabriel,

To be exact I'm trying to find out if the power supply parts are interchangable, so that I can modify a 100V machine to work on the European power system. I mentioned the wrong model though, it's a HFR30 I'd like to convert...

K lambert
Friday 6th October 2017
7:45 pm U.K.

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Hi Russell.

Could be a few things.

I suspect you have a bad reel motor. Or a dry point on the comutator.

Try turning it on and off a few times without a tape inside it.

Does the reel motor advance every time for a bit. It should. If you have a bad motor contact it won't move. Make sure you leave at least two seconds between each try.

It could also be dirt on the reel take up LED sensor.That too will trigger stop if it cannot read those pulses.

There is also a cassette down switch ,Which you gain access to underneath. If those contacts are not clean it will play up in that area too.

Let me know how it goes...................Kevin

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