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Saturday 1st August 2009
2:12 am U.K.


hi anyone can send me a copy pdf or scanned copy of SL-5800 or 5400 instuction manual please? Thank you

Monday 27th July 2009
5:11 am U.K.


Hi Dave, I saw your message about the remote for your SL-HF750. I have the original RMT-143 remote with jog shuttle for the Sony SL-HF750. I also have the HF750 and was planning to keep the remote so if I ever sell the VCR, I could sell the remote with it. However, I have a Sony RM-AV2100 learning remote that I have programmed all the functions into and most of the time find myself using this remote rather than the RMT-143. Point is I could probably live without it. It is in excellent condition. The VCR responds well to all buttons (no finicky buttons!) Jog shuttle works like a champ in forward and reverse. Battery compartment is nice and clean and battery cover is in place. I'll let it go for $150 US dollars including shipping to anywhere in the world. It will be shipped from California (Los Angeles area). If you or anyone else is interested, email me and I can email you a picture if you want and will also include my cell phone # in case you have further questions or concerns. Richard

Saturday 25th July 2009
7:41 pm U.K.


Re betacam tapes. Bottom Line - BETACAM branded is fine as these are oxide formulation. BETACAM SP, BETACAM DIGITAL or ANY OTHER type of betacam tape are metal formulation and will ruin heads in a normal betamax machine.

Saturday 25th July 2009
2:09 pm U.K.


Hi Mike Betacam are medal tape and you are right betacam run 6X faster I what I have found over time is that they can wear out the heads unless you have a EDbeta machine uses the same type of tapeIf someone else here has used betacams over a long time and had no problems love to hear

Saturday 25th July 2009
5:19 am U.K.


Hi beta people, anyone know what the difference is between betacam tapes and regular beta tapes? I have some Sony BCT-30MA betacam tapes I obtained and have been using them to record on a regular beta VCR. They work fine for my recordings, although I can not tell what I am recording over. It appears that the recorder they are intended for records at a much faster speed (6x faster than beta 2 speed). Is it OK to use them in a regular beta?

Blair Aakre
Thursday 23rd July 2009
2:07 am U.K.


I took a look at my SLO-323 again. Didn't really do anything to it, but it seemed to start working for me. I was able to get it to play and today I tested out the record function. Wow. I've never seen a Beta I recording before and was quite impressed. Not bad for a 30 year old vcr! Anyways, I let it record for a while unattended, but it eventually stopped on its own. Any attempt to play, rewind, or fast forward yielded the same symptoms I was seeing before. It would stop after a few seconds. That is when I noticed that the tape counter wasn't moving at all (it had been working normally while I was recording). This leads me to suspect a belt problem. However, does anyone know of a good source of belts for this particular model? I looked at Studio Sound Electronics, but their website claims they do not carry parts for this model.

Thursday 23rd July 2009
1:08 am U.K.


Anyone know where I can find RMT-143 for the sony betamax SL-HF750 tried Ebay but no luckThanks

Noel Higgins
Wednesday 22nd July 2009
2:43 am U.K.



The DC/DC in your C9 should have no effect on the stereo indicator if the tuner is working and locked in.


In my opinion, that is too much money for repairing two DC/DC convertors. No one is going to replace all the components anyway. The transformers for one thing are specially made. I don't know anyone (other than myself) who has bothered to repair one by rewinding it from scratch. I still have one brand new MkII DC/DC in its original box. I am willing to sell it for $150au plus postage. (They ceased being available around 1995 according to palsite.)

I charge $90Au for a DC/DC changeover repair plus postage. I have a jig specially made to check them out once they are repaired. The fault is normally a blown transistor, maybe a cooked inductor to be replaced, the two 10uF caps, supply cap (330uF?) and sometimes a shorted cap or diode on the output circuit or a faulty cap on the switching transistors base. The hard part is getting the case unsoldered without cooking the board or causing dry joints. The MkII version requires holes in the can but also additional circuitry around the base of the switching transistor to prevent it driving itself to death when the capacitors dry out or go high ESR.

cheers Noel

Sunday 19th July 2009
12:06 pm U.K.


hi to everyone has any else noticed another sony SL8080 on ebay 75.00.hi there to stuart and to mark I have attempted to repair DC-DC convertors and one is still working 2years on I used 105 tempature caps and this I think is why they are still okay.stuart yes 196.00 is very exspensive I wuold rather put that sort of money towards owning a sony 950 still would rather have anew set of C9 replacement video heads ,mark you can still record by putting a line in on the rear connectors I think reguards David Grant

K . Lambert
Thursday 16th July 2009
2:13 pm U.K.


Hi Ron(G'day matey):Many thanks for your interesting reply.The very last Beta vcr the UK received from Sanyo was the low end NX100. The ONLY Beta Hi-Fi UK PAL model was the superior M40.Maybe they thought they could re-create the MASSICE success of the Sanyo VTC 5000 in 1982?I get the feeling UK sales for Beta were getting pretty dire and hence Australia got the M50 (but no SuperBeta models) and the US got both Superbeta Hi-Fi and just Superbeta (No Beta Hifi) low end models.If nothing else you must praise Sanyo for trying to get more Beta sales with more variation unlike Sony who ONLY offered hugely expensive versions.I actually own the Sanyo VCR7250 Superbeta Hi-Fi model that is MINT but i would like the owner manual and correct remote for this.An interesting model as it's quite a bit slimmer than Sanyo's previous models, has one idler and a brass pulley for all modes and a very thin metal tape loading gear ( in place of their thicker plastc moulded but venerable earlier versions)..It's also interesting to note this vcr is the exact same style as their first VHS models in 1986 and mirrors the UK's Sanyo VHR1500e model in cabinet style.

I have the PDF file for both the M30 and M40.(alas NO M50 though)If you send me a contact e-mail address i'll send them both to you.....................Kevin

Ron Humphris
Thursday 16th July 2009
10:45 am U.K.


G/day Kevin Lambert

did you get any response regarding Sanyo VTC M50 I have a couple of them in my collection one is very near mint condition the other well used & in need of a bit of TLC!

I would be very interested in acquiring a owner/user manual for this model to add to my collection........[Also would like M30 & M40 manuals]

They really are quite unique machines with superb audio especially on headphones with the two machines linked together [the second machine seems to amplify sound from the first machine producing near perfect HiFi Audio??] Not to sure on the technical pros & cons of doing this ........ but what sound!!

Have not seen very many M50's out here in Oz [a few more M30's & M40's & plenty of M10's & M20's] seems strange they were not marketed in the UK! - I wonder if they were sold in Europe etc?



Wednesday 15th July 2009
5:37 pm U.K.


Hi, has anyone here had c9 dcdc converters repaired? What is the normal going rate for a repir on one of these? I just had 2 repaired with all new parts, and with holes drilled onto the can to make them as a mk2. Im not going to say where yet, but the bill came to 196 inc vat, parts, time and return postage.

Russ Horvath
Sunday 12th July 2009
7:11 pm U.K.


I need help cleaning the heads on my Betamax SL 5600 top loader. I rescued it from my parents basement and it seems to work fine only the picture quality is not very good. I opened the top up and poked around, but could not find what seemed to be the actual "play-head(s)" to clean. Can anyone help? Pictures would be great.


James S
Sunday 12th July 2009
4:49 pm U.K.


Anyone got any ideas on this? The stereo indicator light on my C9 is a bit erratic: I know it will not light with tapes recorded on it (according to the manual), but it will not light with pre-recorded tapes or tapes recorded on my C40 either. It is giving stereo sound, and if you power it up and press play within a few seconds of turning it on it will briefly blink on then go out, and will not light up again if you stop and start. Simple adjustment or serious surgery? I have a spare DC-DC but reluctant to start messing about if it's not this!

K . Lambert
Friday 10th July 2009
9:07 pm U.K.


Hi BetaphilesI'd be interested to hear if ANYONE here owns a Sanyo VTC M50? I really like the look and style of that vcr but sadly the UK did'nt get this PAL Beta Hi-Fi model.A real shame that.Also i'd be interested in the remote control and owners manual for the (NTSC) Sanyo VCR7250 Superbeta vcr, that we also were denied...........makes me wonder why/Thanks in advance..................Kevin (UK)

Craig Felsmann
Wednesday 8th July 2009
2:09 am U.K.


Good one Stuart! Did you get a reply?

Thursday 2nd July 2009
4:23 pm U.K.


yes craig, I have seen the 8080 in question, I sent the seller a message asking if it was april the 1st...

Craig Felsmann
Wednesday 1st July 2009
3:56 am U.K.


Did you hear the one about the Irishman selling the Sony SL 8080 on e-bay for 1,500 Euros? No joke!...

Blair Aakre
Wednesday 1st July 2009
12:03 am U.K.


Thanks for the suggestions for my two Betamax machines! The SLO-323 does give me a brief picture, so perhaps I need to look at a possible problem with the end of tape sensor? With regards to the SL5000, there is a Youtube video describing the capacitor replacement and subsequent adjustment of the VCR. I have attempted to adjust several of the pots on the board, but haven't really been able to get a good picture. Every once and a while I can get a good picture for a second or two, and then it breaks up. (More diagonally, than a rolling picture if I recall)

Noel Higgins
Tuesday 30th June 2009
11:38 pm U.K.



On the SLO 323 with the top off the machine can you see if the drum motor is spinning when you use any of those functions? Sounds like the fault at http://www.palsite.com/pcat_hmotor.html I have found that the hall effect sensor needs replacement in most cases.

If it does spin and you are getting a brief picture it may be that the tape end sensor is faulty or the machine is incorrectly sensing a broken tape.

Regarding the SL5000 (like the C6? ) Replacing the caps is not all you have to do. There are adjustments for the capstan speed/lock and the head drum speed/lock. These have to be set in the range where the macine can automatically adjust the speed according to the picture syncronising information. If the picture rolls vertically then its a capstan adjustment. If the picture breaks diagonally then its drum adjustment. When you adjust these without the right meters etc just set them to middle of their adjustment range between the points where picture goes unstable.

cheers Noel (betaheaven.com)

cheers Noel

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