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Chat Page News
Wednesday 29th March 2017

Please bookmark http://chat.palsite.com/chat_page.py as the new URL.

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K Lambert
Saturday 18th September 2010
9:06 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Bill

If your Sony SLHF950 is'nt showing any signs of poor performance with that head drum looking glum :) then i would'nt worry about it.I believe they are supposed to be dull and not shiny like the Sanyo ones.It's to do with being frictionless in the fast wind modes.I have read before that some earlier ( and later) Sony models can suffer with this after time and cause a bumping sound on REW that can be cured by using a white INK RUBBER to the surface of the drum obviously staying well clear of the fragile video (&Hi-Fi ) heads.

Hope this helps Bill....................Kevin

Bill
Saturday 18th September 2010
10:08 am U.K.

electravibe10@googlemail.com

Hi Kevin,

Many thanks, that's very helpful - as usual! I'm afraid that gets you another question I've been meaning to post for some time. The head drum on my 950 LOOKS horrible, with the polished shine gone altogether on quite a few irregularly shaped patches. But I can't detect ANY drop in its excellent performance, and it doesn't appear to be doing anything nasty to tape. Can you explain? If it doesn't mean the heads themselves are damaged and I can just ignore it until and unless I CAN detect any performance fall-off, obviously that's fine with me, but I'd like your opinion. The only problem I've ever had with the machine was a slightly sticking drawer, and that was quite easy to fix. The cassette housing was being pushed up slightly too much on entry and was occasionally fouling at the top.

All the best, Bill

jack
Saturday 18th September 2010
7:14 am U.K.

jackzou1@hotmail.com

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K. Lambert
Thursday 16th September 2010
8:54 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Stuart:

Many thanks for the info.Much appreciated.

Hi Bill:

In regards to tape mould....All the tape mould i've seen on casettes has always revealed itself with a white looking powder on the top(or edge) of the tape viewable through the tape window.Some is removeable and constututes no detriment to the playback ,especialy if FF and REW in a Sanyo which unlaces (the VTC9300, 9100,5400,5300 did NOT unlace for the FF and REW modes) ,as this will remove most that's on the tape surface.I did recieve one on E-Bay once that was so bad , if you held the tape to daylight you could see it had penetrated the magnetic layer and looked similar to oil in a patch of water.Every part that was effected like this you recieved a screen full of snow and bad interference.I still have the really bad tapes i've recieved ( NEVER with any i've bought or used from new),to one day show some what this looks like.

Your players being Sony are more vulnerable to 'cleaning 'this off as they are laced at ALL times and this substance will inevitably get onto the heads.I actually overhauled a guys VTC 5000 who was in the tape transferring business.He claimed poor picture quality and when i looked at one of the heads this white powder had gathered and blocked the head.

As fo the moving the tpae forward before recording......This is a good idea if you use the same tape for time shifting and then recording straight over.It saves extra wear at the beginning from being loaded and unloaded in the vcr.But if you store them for long periods it IS advisable to rewind them fully.I always FF and then REW ANY new tape i use(I have quite a few still sealed) as you don't know how long they've been like that.It also puts less strain on the vcr's mechanism as the tape has been allowed to 'breathe' somewhat.I too now own a good range of Sony beta ( SLHF100, C9 ,C20 ,SLHF950 ) so i have the best of both worlds.Good to hear from you Bill :)

Hope this helps..............Kevin

Bill
Thursday 16th September 2010
7:27 am U.K.

electravibe10@googlemail.com

Hi Kevin,

It's me again - don't say I didn't warn you! Looking back, I came across your posting to your namesake back in August about tape mould. It's worried me a bit as I have a number of tapes - mainly Scotch 750 - which haven't been played for the best part of twenty years. They have been stored in a dry place and in room temperature. Some have stuff on them that I'd rather not lose. Is tape mould ALWAYS as visible as you describe, or should I distrust the tapes on principle? Are there other symptoms?

Also - you mention moving the tape forward a second or so. Rightly or wrongly, I came up believing that before playing tapes stored for some considerable time you should fast forward them right to the end and back to the beginning so as to ensure even tension. If there's a risk of mould would that actually be dangerous? My machines are Sony.

All the best, Bill

K Lambert
Monday 13th September 2010
5:32 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Stuart.Many thanks for the info.Dare i ask how much he's asking for the DC- DC converter upgrade/repair?I've succesfully opened one up and have orderd an upgraded common failing transistor (Q2) and three new capacitiors.

Thanks.................Kevin

Stuart
Saturday 11th September 2010
4:01 pm U.K.

stu_george@hotmail.com

Hi Kevin,

I had two dead dcdc converters, I recently got to know through another betamax collector, a formet tv/video engineer who lives just a few miles away from me. He recently replaced the head disc on my hf100 along with the hall sensor and about 50 bad caps throughout the vcr. Works perfect now. I also gave him the dcdcs and asked if he could repair them, and he said yes. The cost to do this was very reasonable, so reasonable I snapped his hand off!

K Lambert
Saturday 11th September 2010
1:39 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Stuart

In regards to the refurbished C9 Dc -DC converter .Did you do this yourself or purchase it that way?I'm in the process of upgrading two of these for my machines.Also exactly WHERE do you have to re inforce those cassette carriage gears on the C9 that frequently break.Mine are fine so some pictures or guidance would be appreciated(the ones on this site are a bit vague)..........Thanks....................Kevin

mark
Saturday 11th September 2010
11:00 am U.K.

mark@beta.com

Stuart, thank you so much for sending me the refurbished DC DC for my C9. I now have a working display and tuner. Cheers :)

Stuart
Tuesday 7th September 2010
7:28 pm U.K.

stu_george@hotmail.com

Just sent you an email mark.

mark
Tuesday 7th September 2010
9:54 am U.K.

mark@beta.com

Hi again Stuart, it's obviously not your correct email any longer as it has bounced back. Do you still have my email as I haven't changed it in years?

mark
Tuesday 7th September 2010
9:36 am U.K.

mark@beta.com

Hi Stuart, I sent you an email but not sure it's your correct one as it's from three years back. Hope you get it. Thanks

Chris Margrave-Gregory
Tuesday 7th September 2010
9:13 am U.K.

chris@thameside.tv

Hi,

A bit of a long shot, I am currently looking for a few 1" either BVH 3100 or BVH 2800 machines and wondered if any one had or new of any that they wanted to sell.

Please let me know,

Kind RegardsChris

Ian
Monday 6th September 2010
3:17 pm U.K.

ian@icolder.freeserve.co.uk

Hello NoelThank you for your info regarding the SL-C9 gears. Unfortunately one broke in two and the other one I gave to a well meaning friend who thought that he could match it up with another. He then lost it! So I'm basically at a loss as to where I can obtain them.Excellent suggestion regarding the reinforcement of the gears - I'm sure that it will be useful information to many with this common problem.RegardsIan

Kevin Lambert
Monday 6th September 2010
9:39 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Noel:

Thanks for that.What exactly is the reason for these gears getting stressed.I noticed with one of my C9 's when ejecting a tape the silver door which slides down, did'nt make it too the bottom and prevented the tape coming out .Is THIS the start or reason for those tiny gears getting broken or cracked?I will remove the tape loading system on this to see why this is happening, and also get to see where and how those gears are and try to re enforce them with the parts and comments you've suppiled me with.The C9 is indeed an unique and quite interesting vcr.Very complex too as is typical with the Sony breed.

Thanks again Noel.Your comments and assistance is , as always, VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.

..................Kevin

Noel Higgins
Monday 6th September 2010
9:26 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Kevin,

If you put shims on the gears before they break too "upgrade" them that would be even better.

They are really fiddly to get on and off.

One thing I forgot to mention was that once the shims are glued on I use a bench grinder to take the overlap of the shim back to the edge of the plastic but slowly so as not to melt the plastic.

regards Noel

Kevin Lambert
Monday 6th September 2010
9:00 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Noel

Yes indeedy you did.I was wondering exactly how and where you placed those.MUCH appreciated.Seeing as i now have 2 C9 's both in great order apart from the DC to DC converter failure.Which i'm going to work on with an upgraded component (if i can still get it),that usually fails.I would then be able to help and assist others who experience this common fault.......................Kevin

Noel Higgins
Sunday 5th September 2010
11:39 pm U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Ian,

The SONY SLC9 white plastic load gears can be repaired if they have not totally broken is half. The plastic cracks beside the edge of the D section when pressure due a jammed tape exceeds a certain point.

You can make a 4mm inside diameter metal shim out of the right size telescopic antenna section cut into small lengths using a Dremel and small cutting wheel. You can then slip the shim over the round area in the side of the gear to reinforce the gear. Using super glue secure it and the crack making sure not to get glue in the tooth groove or if you do then just cut it out later.

The shim stops the D section from opening up again. The inside diameter of the shim is 4mm. measure the right size with a gauge. I have already sent some "shims" to Kevin.

regards Noel (betaheaven.com)

Stuart
Sunday 5th September 2010
9:31 pm U.K.

stu_george@hotmail.com

mark - you gave me a head drum for a c9 a while back. Please email me to my private email, not this hotmail one. Cheers

Boby
Wednesday 1st September 2010
5:31 pm U.K.

bobymc@howtomail.com

minty HF100 ebay Item number: 250690558658.

very low starting price...grab while its there..

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