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Chat Page News
Wednesday 26th April 2017

Please bookmark http://chat.palsite.com/chat_page.py as the new URL.

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K Lambert
Saturday 17th November 2012
12:23 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Nigel:

That sounds like a typical effect of a dry joint somewhere.As the area heats up the connection get's better.I would make sure though that all caps in the PSU are at their best first though.You can eliminate that from the equation.

Derek:

The M40 heads are very long lasting but i have seen 5 M40 's now with bad Hi-Fi heads.The picture on 4 being very good still.Also you mention the sound being faulty on one channel.Now that does sound suspicious to me.There could be an issue with a component or dry joint in the tiny Hi-Fi amplifier to the immediate left of the head drum.It has and earth wire coming from it one side and i red connector the other.It's a small silver can.You slide it upwards and disconnect those wires.I've seen dry joints inside this to a transistor a couple of times.You could try that.Sadly i too have found that unless someone knew a old service engineer and was given new hi-Fi heads the PAL type are indeed history now.NTSC ones as you know use the same heads for picture and Hi-Fi sound.So those should be easier to source.

Good luck to both of you.

.................Kevin

Jamie
Friday 16th November 2012
9:09 pm U.K.

jlovas85@tpg.com.au

Hi Derek,

The video heads in the VTC-M40 as per the service manual are either 143-0-242V-21000 or 143-0-242V-21100. I have also done quite a bit of research into these heads. It appears that they have not been available for quite some time, and there doesn't seem to be a third party company manufacturing them either.

Derek
Friday 16th November 2012
5:38 pm U.K.

derek92994@live.com.au

G'day

I have a Sanyo VTC M40 Beta Hifi. I'm curious to know where to buy the main video head from and how much they are. Seems to be a great machine audio and video wise, any idea how long heads are supposed to last? Any advice appreciated. Thanks

Jamie
Friday 16th November 2012
10:10 am U.K.

jlovas85@tpg.com.au

Hi all,

Just a quick question. Have a fault with a Sanyo VTC-M40 relating to hifi audio. When I playback a pre-recorded tape or one recorded on a good machine, right channel is perfect but left channel audio is virtually non existant (can be heard slightly when volume turned right up). When I make a recording on this machine, right channel again is perfect but left channel is loud but very distorted. Not sure if this could be an electrical fault or head related.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jamie
Thursday 15th November 2012
9:44 pm U.K.

jlovas85@tpg.com.au

Thanks James,

Well I may as well try them because I have against all odds been able to find a place who has one single pair of brand new DSR49R heads left in stock and only charged me $20 AU for them, so if they work I'll be over the moon. I'll report back on the outcome.

Nigel Robinson
Thursday 15th November 2012
4:07 pm U.K.

nbrb0x-3@yahoo.co.uk

Good advice James, thanks.

James
Thursday 15th November 2012
12:42 pm U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Jamie,

To be honest I am not sure what the difference is. Other than the sound is different in Australia compared to the UK (Thatís on the tuner side of things)Perhaps the DSR49R heads are a later revision that fits the HF100.

I am sure someone else here will have a better answer for you.

NigelI would replace the caps as bad caps could result in damage to other components.Knowing I have bad caps in my SLO-1700 I will not use until I have replaced all caps within the PSUÖ

James

Nigel Robinson
Thursday 15th November 2012
12:04 pm U.K.

nbrb0x-3@yahoo.co.uk

Thanks for the advice James. It is worth noting that my machine does actually switch on after about a minute of hissing. It then works 100% picture and sound.

Thank you Kevin, the hi-fi sound is OK once the machine starts up. I was talking about the sound monitored through the unit. Haven't had any problems with sound since you tuned it up for me.

So I can either leave it alone and hope the PSU keeps working (after a minute!) or tackle the problem head-on with a full electrolytic recap. As I say, it works OK once it comes on so that must be telling me something :)

Jamie
Thursday 15th November 2012
7:35 am U.K.

jlovas85@tpg.com.au

Thanks James for such a quick response. Would that then mean that DSR49R are not suitable as a replacement in this machine?

James
Thursday 15th November 2012
4:32 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Jamie,

The heads you are seeking are the DSR48R (A-6762-165-A)

James

Jamie
Wednesday 14th November 2012
11:40 pm U.K.

jlovas85@tpg.com.au

Hi,

Does anybody know which heads the SL-HF100AS takes? The heads listing page on Palsite shows heads for SLHF100UB as DSR49R and for SHLF100ES as being DSR48R. There isn't a listing for the AS model.

Thanks in advance.

K Lambert
Wednesday 14th November 2012
5:23 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Oh and one other thing, the back tension setting is important too.You really need the torque tape for the Sony's, especially for the forward torque which is normally out a bit. and the Sanyo's are usually fine....Unless fiddled with.

.....................Kev

K Lambert
Wednesday 14th November 2012
1:40 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Gabriel,Nigel and James.

Nigel,If it's a bad hi-Fi then it usually IS the heads.be it dirty or well worn.One way to know for sure is check they are clean ( usually a great picture quality should verify this).Then make a recording on good quality ( newer the better) tape.Whilst playing this back turn the tracking control to the full extremes slowly and observe at what point ( if any )the Hi-Fi sound drops out (so you can only hear the mono edgetrack sound).If those Hi-Fi heads are n great order you should get no interference at either sweep of the tracking control). If they are wearing down lightly, you will get the hi-Fi sound disappearing just before the tracking reaches the full sweep at either end).Obviously the tracking control will need to be fully working as well (normally an issue with some Sanyo M40 's which can be repaired).Also on some vcr's i've seen the setting up of the control track/mono audio head is out slightly, meaning you will need to adjust the tracking quite a lot for recordings made on other vcr's all the time.I make sure on any i see it perfectly centered so the tracking is in 99% of the cases left in the center.This would affect the hi-Fi even more if this was so.

Gabriel:

Like yourself i see the same things over and over and like you state, i mentally know exactly where to look straight away.You can get the odd rogue failing cap but most i see are consistent.I have also seen on two occasions the big main cap on a Sanyo VTC5000 failed causing huge hum bars to go up the tv screen and also the 100uf 100v hat supplies the tuner board( now defunct) that causes snow all over the tv picture with no tuning possible.

I am at this moment looking at alternatives for the common hall effect sensor failings on the Sony's ( i always remove all glue on ones working ok as soon as possible to avoid this failure), and also those tiny black tape loading gears ,which split and ultimately slip on the C20, 30,40 ,HF100 & F30. I also agree with you about Sanyo's bomb proof designs ( albeit considered and older one then the super complex Sony).The rubber components will always need a refresh but the complete removing of all mechanicals at the front for a good clean ,check and regrease IS the way to go here.As is the removal and strip down of the capstan motor and a good clean of the shaft and pinch roller and relube of the top and bottom bearings with one tiny drop of oil.Then there's the audio head azimuth check and record playback output( compared to a good digital feed) should help get these classics to a good reliable and pleasing service for quite a good more years.

Hope this helps guys...............Kev

James
Wednesday 14th November 2012
12:14 pm U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Nigel,

Going by what you have said here and in an email to me I would recommend replacing all the caps within the PSU, even the ones in DC to DC converter.

My SLO-1700 had problems with the sound on the HiFi side of things before I replaced a number of caps in the PSU since then I have seen an improvement with sound since I replaced the caps in the DC to DC converter and in the PSU.

If the heads are badly worn you will have bad HiFi sound.

James

Gabriel
Tuesday 13th November 2012
12:18 pm U.K.

gabrigpb@hotmail.com

Kevin,

Thanks a lot for sharing your 'know-how' about Betas' PSUs.

Curiously, I am finding clear examples of what you are showing: a dead SL-HF950 MK-II (I had a spare PSU for it, but still fails on tape ejecting and rewinding), a C9 with no display (DC-DC with its terrible housing) and C30s with wavy lines through the picture.

I am thinking about creating a 'routine service sheet' for every model so as not to forget checking vital points. For example, in a Sony you cannot forget checking the sensor controlling the drum. But I need some amount of time that I don't have right now...

For me, Sanyos are much better machines with best engineer solutions than Sonys (in general, no solenoids, no cracking gears, no bad head wear, less energy consumption...). And most Sanyo cures are based on belts change and inspection/cleaning.

Regards,

Gabriel

Nigel Robinson
Tuesday 13th November 2012
11:48 am U.K.

nbrb0x-3@yahoo.co.uk

Hi Kevin,

Nice to talk to you once more and thanks again for looking after my SLO-1700 last year.

Do you think replacing all or most of the electrolytics in the PSU block will solve the problem? Also do you think a power supply problem like this would cause any degradation in the sound quality?

All the best,Nigel

K Lambert
Monday 12th November 2012
6:50 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Betaphiles:

Interesting notes/comments you make.

From my experience with the Sony and Sanyo beta's.As far as the PSU supplies go Sony's do tend to suffer more than the Sanyo's.Out of the many i have catered for and brought to 110% order.The C9 is the worst in this respect ,especially the DC to DC.It also pays to check and ultimatley change quite a lot in the PSU BEFORE anything else get's damaged.Usually transitors.The SLHF950 seems to be suffering in this area now too and will damage a particular transistor if left too long.The C20 /30 models tends to have one or two of the smaller electro caps failing ,usually causing wavy lines through the picture.The F30 also usually has three or four that are failing.The HF100 usually has quite a few going or gone bad in the dc to dc area too

On to the Sanyo's The worst for failing electro caps in the PSU is the VTC 5000. This is always in the clock display supply area.This may be as this model was likely powered up and in use for quite a few years.The 5150 i have yet to encounter bad caps or ones that have failed.The 'M' series are usually pretty good too.The NX100 always has one failed next too the heat shield ,nearest to the mains transformer.heat is always the cause of theses capacitor failings.

I make it a rule to always check all out now on any vcr i resurrect/service as this will ensure the other areas are given their maximum and correct power supply.It should also guarantee somewhat against any unexpected or catastrophic failings later on.Also always go for reputable brand Electrolytic caps and ones rated at 105 degrees.

Good luck guys and keep up the good work.

..................Kevin

James
Sunday 11th November 2012
1:16 pm U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Hi Nigel,

Yes I sorted the original problem which was the DC to DC converter had bad capacitor's.

Yes I sorted the original problem which was the DC to DC converter.I had to open the metal case and then replace all the small capacitors inside...

But I now have to replace the capacitors within the power supply as there is now a noise due to the load not being handled and there is a bad smell coming from it... I have replaced of the capacitors but I have to get one from eBay as I cannot find the right size capacitor here locally.

My SLO-1700 does work and will need adjusting but I will wait till I sort out the power supply...

James.

Nigel Robinson
Sunday 11th November 2012
11:49 am U.K.

nbrb0x-3@yahoo.co.uk

Talking about SLO-1700 power supply of course :)

Nigel Robinson
Sunday 11th November 2012
11:45 am U.K.

nbrb0x-3@yahoo.co.uk

Hi James, I have the same problem just started. Hissing sound like gas leaking. The machine is dead at first then comes on after about a minute and is then OK. I believe the hissing sound is the switch mode power supply without a load so that part is probably OK. Some capacitor is probably failing and is slowly charging up, the power relay then eventually receives the correct voltage and switches on. Did you sort your problem? All the best,Nigel

Brendan
Friday 9th November 2012
1:33 pm U.K.

bgc1995@hotmail.com

Actually the questionable arm has nothing to do with back tension. I think it is just a form of tape sensor to detect slackness. Having said that, in my other C6, the arm does not move at all once against the tape in playback. But the one I have replaced the rubber in moves about a little. Could this be a capstan stabilty problem? Not noticeable in playback but noticeable arm movements. The capstan servo still contains Sanyo caps.

Brendan

Brendan
Friday 9th November 2012
11:03 am U.K.

bgc1995@hotmail.com

Hello all,

I have corrected the problem. A small section of the tyre on the take up reel was sticking out slighty. However the back tension arm still moves a little during playback. Would I need to slighty increase take up torque because of the new rubber fitted?

Brendan

Brendan
Friday 9th November 2012
10:06 am U.K.

bgc1995@hotmail.com

Hello all,

Just replaced all the rubber in a SL-C6. But it has developed a problem. Upon playback, within a few seconds, the back tension arm continually moves inward. Eventually so much so causing a tape loop and the VCR to stop. The short playback is perfect however. Any ideas?

Brendan.

ElichArilia
Wednesday 7th November 2012
7:21 pm U.K.

fffvvv@tesiov.info

Funny Sheet - <a href=http://www.youtube.com>;YouTube</a> http://www.youtube.com

Gabriel
Tuesday 6th November 2012
8:13 pm U.K.

gabrigpb@hotmail.com

Dropout comp adjusted with no improvements, delay line swapped and still the same issue. Finally I have fitted a set of heads from a scrap C30 and problem solved. Now it gives a great image with full color.

Thanks again,

Gabriel,

Gabriel
Monday 5th November 2012
8:09 pm U.K.

gabrigpb@hotmail.com

Kevin,

Thanks a lot for the tip. I need having a look to the service manual because I don't have a clue where that pot is located (I guess in the video board, but not exactly). Could it also be caused by a bad delay line (DL001 as listed in the technical area of this model)?

Thanks,

Gabriel

K Lambert
Monday 5th November 2012
11:41 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Gabriel

Try adjusting lightly the drop out compensator.if that does'nt help then it could be excessively worn heads or bad tapes (scratched too maybe ).............Kevin

Gabriel
Monday 5th November 2012
8:48 am U.K.

gabrigpb@hotmail.com

Good morning Betaphiles,

Does anyone know a remedy for a SL-C30 showing random horizontal noisy lines when playing? I've tried changing the PSU with no results, moving also the tensioner arm (by hand) just in case it were a tape tension issue. Heads and tape path are clean.

As always, thanks in advance.

James
Sunday 4th November 2012
10:41 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

It looks like you need to take things apart to get that belt out, I am not keen on that idea yet... I cleaned the belt which has helped but still needs to be changed...

James

Brendan
Saturday 3rd November 2012
10:56 am U.K.

bgc1995@hotmail.com

All belts and tyres with the exception of that one. The original is still good in my C7. Plus it isn't the easiest to replace. You could probably place the VCR on its side with both top and bottom exposed. And use tweezers to help fit the belt.

Brendan

James
Saturday 3rd November 2012
9:16 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Brendan,

You replaced all belts?I was wondering how you replaced the belt on the botton that drives the loading mech and ring?

James

Brendan
Saturday 3rd November 2012
4:17 am U.K.

bgc1995@hotmail.com

Never mind everyone. I have corrected the rewind fault. Brendan

colin judd
Saturday 3rd November 2012
2:06 am U.K.

garnetjudd@bigpond.com

iHAVE FOR SALE A SONY SZL 100 AS BVETA PLAYER WITH REMOTE AND MANUALALSO 3 BOXWS OF MO,I LIVE IN Robina qld australia

Brendan
Friday 2nd November 2012
11:32 am U.K.

bgc1995@hotmail.com

Hello all,

Just finished replacing all the rubber in a SL C7. Rewind and review still fail to function. When engaged, it tries to rewind and the drum makes a whirring noise. Would this be an open inductor(L2) on the SY-11 as stated on the tech page? And more so, advice on accessing the coil.

Brendan

Ross Willett
Wednesday 31st October 2012
11:45 pm U.K.

rosswillett69@hotmail.com

Which films have only ever came out on Betamax?

Craig Felsmann
Tuesday 30th October 2012
11:32 pm U.K.

kreigas@hotmail.com

SLHF 950 for sale...Unfortunately I'm forced to sell one of my two beloved HF 950 's due to lack of space. Just serviced, it comes with the original IR remote commander. In near mint condition. No manual. Service receipt included.Due to the sheer size and weight of the unit (and risk involved), I am reluctant to post this rarity, only to have it arrive DOA on some poor, disappointed geek's doorstep, so pick up only. See working. $1 100.Regards, Craig Felsmann. Brisbane.

mark
Saturday 27th October 2012
6:52 pm U.K.

mark@beta.com

Matt77

Audio head wear/alignment/contamination perhaps?

Richard Sleeman
Saturday 27th October 2012
4:46 pm U.K.

rsleeman@live.co.uk

Hi everyone. I have a sony sl-c9ub which needs a dc-dc converter for the lcd display and a tape threading gear and loading belt. If any of you have there parts for sale i would be very interested!Regards. Richard.

Matt77
Friday 26th October 2012
5:19 pm U.K.

it-matte@live.se

I have a SL-C9 that runs perfectly except there is no sound. I've searched the web, but the only thing I've found is to check the diod D515 on the AM1 board for failure. That diod seems to be fine. Does anyone have any other ideas of why there is no sound at all?

ken brandt
Thursday 25th October 2012
10:07 am U.K.

kbrandt40@hotmail.co.uk

anyone tell me wherei can get atuner for a sony c6sl ken

Rollie
Saturday 20th October 2012
2:31 pm U.K.

coltsevers33@yahoo.ca

Hi folks. I purchased a UVW-100 at a government auction some months ago. I did not realize it did not have a power supply at all nor did it have any manual. As such I have never had it up and running. I know absolutely nothing about these cams & bought it on a whim. Cosmetically it appears to be fine & it came with a Porta Brace bag (that I thought the battery, power cord etc. would be in) If you, or someone you know want a cheap cam .. contact me.. i live in Nova Scotia Canada

Noel Higgins
Sunday 14th October 2012
6:57 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Roderick,

That's no good, I know how that feels. I once slipped a screw driver of the last tape guide and it hit the spinning heads of a new original SONY SLHF950 video head disc I had just installed. It killed a couple of heads nicely, instant no picture. Cost $445Au. Not happy Jan.

regards Noel

Jim Will
Saturday 13th October 2012
4:06 am U.K.

jimwill7@gmail.com

122 video tapes, sex movies and documentaries, VHS and BETA in very good condition, second hand. Good for passionate collectors. One dollar each. No minimum quantity. Location: Sydney, NSW, 2010 Tel.: (02) 92644773 Mobile: 0400336567Email: jimwill7@gmail.com

Jim Will
Saturday 13th October 2012
3:07 am U.K.

jimwill7@gmail.com

Video tapes movies and documentaries

122 video tapes, sex movies and documentaries, VHS and BETA in very good condition, second hand. Good for passionate collectors. One dollar each. No minimum quantity. Location: Sydney, NSW, 2010 Tel.: (02) 92644773 Mobile: 0400336567

A.K.Abeywardana
Friday 12th October 2012
3:20 pm U.K.

aka13624@yahoo.com

Already has a NTSC hi8 TVR-75 Sony japan video camera want,s to replace came cord with ribbon please send the discount of prizes send from DHL for Srilanka thanks.

Roderick
Thursday 11th October 2012
9:00 pm U.K.

nospam@palsite.com

Sorry, tad busy at work at the moment.Did work on the head drum and wished I hadn't.Finally managed to get the magnets of and clear all the glue around the sensor.Very careful with the heads, taped a strip of chamois around the drum.Then everything went wrong.Put everything back in place and reconnect the cables.Now when I hit play the heads still don't turn, but it doesn't have the resistance it had before, the drum turns freely.And to add to the misery, I discovered that I still damaged one of the heads....

Hopefully I'll find some time on the weekend to have another look.

Noel Higgins
Thursday 11th October 2012
9:33 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Very quiet on the chatpage!

Roderick, how did you go with the drum motor repairs?

regards Noel

James
Wednesday 3rd October 2012
1:23 pm U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Ok never mind.

I get it now... Thanks for that info Noel...

James

James
Wednesday 3rd October 2012
1:21 pm U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Thanks Noel,

Is that if you were putting the HF100 heads into the HF150 or the other way round?

James

Noel Higgins
Wednesday 3rd October 2012
2:17 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

James,

They are similar but the SLHF150 heads have two sense position sense/switch magnets.

You have to note which one is extra and remove it. To do the replacement job properly you really need a CRO and alignment tape.

regards Noel

James
Tuesday 2nd October 2012
1:29 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Keven,

Will be good to know what needs to be done as I have new heads that I can use..

James

K Lambert
Monday 1st October 2012
12:40 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi James:

I believe that's been mentioned before and i think noel said something about a magnet or something has to be removed first from the disc?Maybe Noel can add to this.

..............Kevin

James
Monday 1st October 2012
4:00 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Hi guys.

I am just checking to see if anyone knows if the heads from a SL-HF100 will fit the HF150?

James

Noel Higgins
Saturday 29th September 2012
2:11 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Hi guys,

I have been a little busy and not looking at chat page as much.

Roderick. .Getting the magnet off the drum motor is always best done in the machine. (unless you have four arms.) The video heads can too easily get damaged by taking the drum out of the machine first.

I have found that the lock nut is sometimes really tight and so you cant just use you gingers to hold the magnet (and you can cut fingers on the drum motor case edge) so if that is the case I try to jam the magnet from turning by using rubber wedges (made from pencil rubbers) in the gap between the drum motor outer shield (case) and the magnets edge. Then using the the right sized spanner on the nut, I hit other the end of the spanner with a small hammer to shock release the nut.

Getting the magnet off requires gentle but firm pressure applied diagonally across opposite sides of the magnet using two slim screw drivers and leveraging against the drum case. Be careful not to damage the drum windings.

The magnet has to come off straight up and once you have overcome the initial magnetic force it pops off easy. Also be careful not to loose any shims and spacers used on the shaft, or the magnet will rub or even jam on the windings when you reassemble the unit. The magnets are strong enough that I use spares as latches for metal gates.

Good luck!

regards Noel (betaheaven.com)

K Lambert
Friday 28th September 2012
10:18 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

HiGood advice there from Gabriel and James, who have obviously experienced doing this as have i.I too found locking the disc in place with a small strip of adhesive tape so that only one head ( or heads it it's a Hi-Fi PAL model)is protruding out at the top and the other one(S) are(is) hidden behind the metal bracket the other side.If you remove the coils and magnetic drum together from the head assembly the magnetic part should be easier to remove as the center shaft is no longer there.Also on re assembly make sure you center the coil part when re screwing it back to the head drum perfectly with the center of the spindle.Otherwise it restricts the head disc movement and may rub or make a swishing noise.

Good luck, take your time,don't use excessive force and always double check everything you do before re assembly and you should be fine.

....................Kevin

Gabriel
Thursday 27th September 2012
9:16 am U.K.

gabrigpb@hotmail.com

Roderick, first of all try not to damage the video heads. With the whole drum out of the machine is quite easy to crack one of them. I always 'lock' the axle with adhesive tape so as to keeping the heads in the safest position.Have you tried gently knocking the magnet disc in one side and then in the opposite as I described before? It usually unlocks the disc from the axle (some minor particles of rust may cause the disc to 'glue' the axle).And finally, don't try to apply force with a screwdriver between the disc and the drum. This can lead to inner coils damage :-(

James
Thursday 27th September 2012
12:11 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Did you try even pressure when you tried to remove it?Trying to remove from one side is likely to cause resistance, try to lever it off from the left and the right at the same time.

James

Roderick
Wednesday 26th September 2012
10:43 am U.K.

nospam@palsite.com

Still having problems removing the magnet disc from the SL-HF100 drum assembly.I have pulled it out of the machine and applied reasonable force and leverage, it won't move.I can turn it freely when holding the top of the axle so I don't think it is glued on.What am I missing?

Roderick

Charlie
Tuesday 25th September 2012
7:40 pm U.K.

betaman@yahoo.com

Stephen,Parts for your Sanyo 7200 can be obtained from www.studiosoundelectronics.com located in Albany, Indiana. The part number for your tune up kit is VMK-1033 N and contains the idler and a couple belts. I don't know where you can get a service manual anymore except on E-bay.

Charlie

James
Tuesday 25th September 2012
10:46 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Hi guys,

I am seeking a service manual for a Sony SL-HF150, If anyone can help me please let me know..

James

James
Tuesday 25th September 2012
10:41 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Roderick,

I think the task would be much easier to do if you removed the whole head drum assembly (Only three screws and some plugs to remove) that way you get better access to it.

James

Gabriel
Monday 24th September 2012
2:35 pm U.K.

gabrigpb@hotmail.com

Roderick,I manage that task with the help of a couple strong magnets. You just have to put them on the rotor, then pull firmly with both hands. If it's "glued" to the axle, gently knock the rotor with a nylon hammer. It works well, I have tried this method several times.When removed, pay attention to the inner washer, it's easy to lose it.

Strong magnets can be obtained from old, scrap computer hard discs.

Regards,

Roderick
Monday 24th September 2012
10:13 am U.K.

nospam@palsite.com

Finally got around trying to fix the Hall sensor but came to a quick stop, #3 - remove drum nut and magnetAny suggestions how to do that? I took the nut off but can't lift the magnet disc off the drum. It spins freely if I hold the top of the drum but I can't get it off.I am hoping to be able to remove the glue without completely taking the drum out but the dish is covering too much.

Many thanks, Roderick

stephen l pladna
Sunday 23rd September 2012
4:04 pm U.K.

pladn001@mc.duke.edu

looking for SERVICE MANUAL for SANYO VCR7200 - also looking for any of the RUBBER PARTS for the tape pickup assembly (tapes are getting eaten) THANKS

david page
Sunday 23rd September 2012
2:01 pm U.K.

e88thh@yahoo.co.uk

I am looking for unwanted Betacam recorders and betacam players: models:Sony PVW-2800P /Sony CVR-75/Ampex CVR-65 and old Betacam cameras.We are a new company trying to start up for a local community. We need donations of old Betacam equipment, so we can get started.Location is Plymouth Devon, if you or your company are local in Plymouth, we can pick up the equipment or you are very welcome to deliver. Its very differcult for use to come up the line in the UK, but we an pay for postage. We undertsand that there are many companies in the UK who are disposing of their old betacam equipment and changing to the new digtal format and useing XD cameras.Please email if you can help us in anyway for donation equipment: davidplymouth57@hotmail.comAlso yahoo: e88thh@yahoo.co.ukThank you for your help.

Matt
Friday 21st September 2012
8:01 pm U.K.

matthew_churchett@hotmail.com

I have a fully working N1702 player for sale if anyone is interested?

Comes with white and yellow phono output sockets for converting tapes to DVD.

Please message me for more details

K Lambert
Thursday 20th September 2012
6:38 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Gabriel:

Nice one! It's good to know it can be done and how relatively simple it is.

...............Kevin

Gabriel
Wednesday 19th September 2012
5:44 am U.K.

gabrigpb@hotmail.com

Hi again betaphiles,

Just to say that fidling with my betas, I've been able to 'upgrade' an SL-C20 to an SL-C30 just by adding the remote sensor and changing the housing from a scrap C30. It is only necessary to solder three points for the connector to the PCB. Now, the 'formerly C-20' is capable of operating with remote control.

Regards,

James
Saturday 15th September 2012
12:16 pm U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Hi Kevin, The mechanical side is spot on in that respect and that click is heard when the pinch roller is pressed onto the capstan by the solenoid. The is another click that is heard on the C40 which I think has to do with audio which is on the AM4 board. I am sure there is an issue on the SS-28 board, but I do not have enough info to fault find without the right tools. I am 100% sure Noel will have a better idea than I in that respect, I was just hoping I could find the problem. James

James
Saturday 15th September 2012
12:11 pm U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Hi Kevin,

The mechanical side is spot in that respect and that click is heard when the pinch roller is pressed onto the capstan by the solenoid.

The is another click that is heard on the C40 which I think has to do with audio which is on the AM4 board.

I am sure there is an issue on the SS-28 board, but I do not have enough info to fault find without the right tools.I am 100% sure will have a better idea than I in that respect, I was just hoping I could find the problem.

James

K Lambert
Friday 14th September 2012
4:24 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

James

The HF 100 and C40 mechanisms are as far as i have seen virtually identical.So in theory should both do the same thing in the play mode.It could be the solenoid that pulls the pinch roller towards the capstan shaft and activates the back tension, when using PLAY/record and search modes is having difficulties.Hence you lack of the audible 'click'.Also one other thing to pay attention too.I have seen a 950 and HF100 whereby the metal bracket to the right that unlocks the tape flap has been bent and stopped the pinch roller from making contact with the capstan (in the case of the 950 ) and prevented reverse search (in the case of the HF100 ).I'm sure Noel will sort it for you though.

..................Kevin

James
Friday 14th September 2012
12:35 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Roderick,

The pinch roller is working as it should.I have just been looking at the SS-28 board and when I adjusted X1 it made no difference to playback speed so maybe there is a dead IC or something is blown on the board?

James

Roderick
Thursday 13th September 2012
9:28 pm U.K.

nospam@palsite.com

James,To me it sounds like the pinch-roller isn't activated and the tape is pulled through by the reel motor rather than the capstan.Have a look and check if the pinch-roller is making contact with the capstan in 'play' mode.ANd there should be an audible 'click' when the pinch-roller activates, just checked!

James
Thursday 13th September 2012
2:17 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Hi Kevin,

The capstan motor appears to be fine. From what I have found is that the reel motor is going too fast, I have adjusted the forward torque but that only slows it down a bit so I feel it has nothing to do with the take up torque.

I am not if the C40 is the same set up as the SL-HF100 but when you hit play on the C40 you hear a rely click, you do not hear that on the SL-HF100, so I am wondering if there is meant to be a reply that engages when it goes into play mode as it does with the C40?

Noel is going to have a look at it when I get around to sending it...

James

K Lambert
Wednesday 12th September 2012
9:50 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

James:

Also the play speed adjustment pot may need a tweak?I would suspect the IC though.I had a SLF30 here that did exactly the same.

.................Kevin

K Lambert
Wednesday 12th September 2012
9:48 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi James:

I would suspect the main drive for the capstan IC located on the SS28 board.Also bad transistors around that area.

Good luck....................Kevin

James
Wednesday 12th September 2012
4:11 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Hi again,

It seems I will be seeking a SS-28 board for the SL-HF100.

If anyone can help me please let me know.

James

James
Tuesday 11th September 2012
3:47 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Hi all,

I have a odd one here and so far I have no idea where to check.I just got hold of a SOny SL-HF100 that will only play fast (Sounds even faster than the chipmonks lol)I am sure the tape mech is ok in this case and nothing seems to be broken.

So I am asking if anyone has come across this problem before and what would be needed to fix the problem? I hope someone can help me.

James

Brendan
Monday 10th September 2012
9:23 pm U.K.

bgc1995@hotmail.com

Hi Kevin

I did adjust the tracking control. The tapes play fine on my other VCRs. The belts are rather loose, it could even be a slight capstan issue.

Brendan

K Lambert
Monday 10th September 2012
3:24 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Brendan.Are you sure it is'nt down to poor tracking.A 'drop out' is a small thin white flash that goes across the picture from left to right.The drop out compensator on all vcr's removes most of this white flash.If it's tracking errors you will see a group of white lines 'noise' because the heads are not scanning directly over the origional recorded tracks layed down by the recording vcr.The tracking control adjusts the tape speed registered from the control pulses ,that are also recorded along the edge of the tape with the mono (or stereo) linear sound).This action allows each different vcr's head to align perfectly ( hence the noise free picture).

It could also be down to scratches or damage already there on your tapes from using a rogue or unserviced vcr.

.................Kevin

Brendan
Sunday 9th September 2012
10:31 pm U.K.

bgc1995@hotmail.com

Thanks Kevin

Just to clarify, are constant random noise lines considered a drop out? I always thought a drop out was a momentary loss of a stable picture. I will have a good look in the VCR. The picture quality is very good. Just a few lines appear that are quite annoying. Ive also noticed pause fails to work. The tapes are fine.

Thanks, Brendan

K Lambert
Sunday 9th September 2012
9:07 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Brendan:

The flashes you see are not to do with Electrolytics in the PSU.It's either a poor ground to the head drum/amplifier, the 'drop out compensator' is set slightly too low or the tapes you are using are very badly worn.The heads wearing down tend to give a grubby and distorted picture but increased drop outs may be slight.

The Sanyo 9300, 5300 and 5400 all stay fully laced in the fast wind modes like Sony/Toshiba models.ALL Sanyo's later model fully unlaced for these modes.I have worked on a 9300 and boy is that big and heavy.Built like a tank.To me it's too old a vcr to warrant owning and utilising for myself.I do respect and appreciate those that do though.Indeed Sanyo's build quality was hard to beat.Their utilisation of rubber components for the tape transport and reel drive being their common weakness and 'achillies heel' after a few years.

Good luck with it..................Kevin

Brendan
Sunday 9th September 2012
12:36 pm U.K.

bgc1995@hotmail.com

Same on coax

James
Sunday 9th September 2012
11:30 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Brendan,

Maybe you can try it on the other video output to see if the same problem shows on both?

James

Brendan
Sunday 9th September 2012
8:51 am U.K.

bgc1995@hotmail.com

Hi all,

So I did end up getting the VTC 9300. It is in a nice condition for it's age. Could do with a rubber replacement. I've given the tape path and heads a good clean. However the picture has lines appearing randomly. Much like tape scratches. However that is not the case. Due to the randomness of the lines I suspect failing electrolytics in the PSU area or W2 board. More so the latter. I have had a similar problem in a later Sanyo. Any specific area on W2 anyone want to suggest? Or is replacement of the 30 odd caps recommended?

Brendan

Brendan
Sunday 9th September 2012
1:49 am U.K.

bgc1995@hotmail.com

Thanks Kevin,

Great bit of info there. Much appreciated. What about the VTC-9300? I have an opportunity to buy another. It has poor picture playback. Most likely dirty heads. But due to it's age and it is one of the few Sanyo's that stays threaded all the time, are heads available?

Cheers

K Lambert
Saturday 8th September 2012
11:06 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Brendan:

To be honest i don't see that many Sanyo beta's with worn heads.Out of the hundreds i've worked on and with ,i have come across 3 M40 ' with no Hi-Fi but good picture ( Hi-Fi heads worn).1 x NX100, 2 x 5150's,2 X M30's (worn third head for clean still frame only)playback normally fine,1 X 6500 and 1 X 5000.I would suspect too that some have been damaged from self cleaning or the abrasive cleaning tapes overused from using clapped out well worn tapes, as the rest of the machines mechanicals don't suggest high mileage.Most are two head designs .The M30 has three and M40 (PAL versions) four (two for beta hi-Fi and two for video).You could use a two head disc in these models but you would lose a clear still frame and Hi-Fi sound respectively.I would say that i'm pretty sure the VTC 5150, 6500 and 5000 are all compatible.The same with the VTC M10 an M20,maybe the NX100 is also with those models.If you remove the top part of the drum and look at the disc design it should give you the necessary info.

As for the hall effect sensors.....I am at this moment trying out some new designs to replace those failing or failed with.I will keep this site posted with my findings.One tip to know for sure IF it IS the hall effect giving the issue is to press play on the vcr and from the very top of the head drum try to turn the disc left or right whilst the play light is illuminated ONLY.If you feel resistance to turn it whilst the PLAY LED is lit, then it IS the hall effect.If it just spins all the time it's either a bad IC or dry solder point usually.

......................Kevin

Brendan
Saturday 8th September 2012
2:56 am U.K.

bgc1995@hotmail.com

Hi all

Which Sanyo video heads(non Hi Fi) are interchangeable?

Cheers,Brendan

Roderick
Friday 7th September 2012
8:23 am U.K.

nospam@palsite.com

Two questions about hall sensors:

What is the best way to remove the glue?

How do I test the sensor to see if it works?

Thanks, Roderick

Charlie
Thursday 6th September 2012
9:40 pm U.K.

betaman@yahoo.com

Pete, Your SL-HF-300 carriage will indeed work in your SL-HF-900.

Charlie

James
Thursday 6th September 2012
3:56 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Hi guys,

I am looking for the front flap for a SL-HF100.

Any help with thia will be great...

James

James
Wednesday 5th September 2012
12:15 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

Roderick,

I did not mean to make you look foolish, I just did not bother to type anything.

James

Roderick
Tuesday 4th September 2012
10:59 am U.K.

nospam@palsite.com

Thanks Kevin and James. I'll have a go at the instructions from Noel, kindly pointed out by James (made me look very foolish...).Hopefully it is just the glue, it worked for a few minutes before shutting down and not playing nice anymore.

K Lambert
Tuesday 4th September 2012
9:18 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Roderick.

Sounds like the classic failing of the 'hall effect sensor' on the head drum motor.The glue used by Sony goes conductive over time shorting out the sensor.You'll have to get it replaced with a good used one.As you seem to be in Australia (model no) contact Noel Higgins here.He can help you out.

Good luck.................Kevin

James
Tuesday 4th September 2012
7:05 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

http://www.palsite.com/100tech.html

Roderick
Tuesday 4th September 2012
7:02 am U.K.

nospam@palsite.com

I have just picked up a faulty SL-HF100AS. The problem is with the head drum, it doesn't run.There is a little wiggle at first but no action. The machine shuts itself down after a few seconds. I have a service manual but any suggestions that could reduce fault-finding will be much appreciated.

Roderick

Andrew Walker
Sunday 2nd September 2012
7:13 pm U.K.

andrewwalker72@fsmail.net

Hope someone can help, I recently moved my terminally ill sister into a nursing home from hospital and she has her own room. She is bedridden and rarely responds however we have some betamax videos that i was transferring to vhs and dvd and we were told that she smiled when some were played, I was taping bits from lots of the tapes she had in her loft and wardrobe however the machine a sanyo 5000 stopped playing midway through recording and doesnt rewind or fastforward. I got frustrated with it and slapped it and it played then stopped again. I am no enthusiast and merely wanted to transfer some of the bits quickly edited together onto several tapes so she can watch them on repeat. I know there are plenty who can transfer the whole tapes but its lots of bits from lots of tapes. There are three machines which were in the wardrobe and garage. Would anyone wish to swap 3 betamax machines 2 sanyo 5000's which are both doing the same stopping after a while and a toshiba front loader that makes a grating noise instead of taking the tape in for a working machine. If I sound tight that I should buy one its as we're a little strapped at the minute having paid for her to go to the care home. Anyone near Bradford that could maybe repair ? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Pete
Saturday 1st September 2012
7:07 pm U.K.

Pmalan@comcast.net

Hi all, I have a SLHF900 and a SLHF300. The 900 will not load a tape. It's as if its stuck on the left side as you face it. I want to know if the loading mechinisum from the 300 will work in the 900. It look like they both just lift out and I can't find any visual differences after staring at both of them for several hours. If this will solve the load problem I'm willing to tackel it but is I need stuff like sensors I'm taking to a repaire guy. Thanks for you assistance.

colin judd
Saturday 1st September 2012
3:52 am U.K.

garnetjudd@bigpond.com

for sale,my collection of BETA PLAYER cv.w remote and manual.usa reiwinder with a step down transformer plus 3 boxes of videos I live queensland austalia,whjat would be an asiking price?

James
Saturday 1st September 2012
1:17 am U.K.

jlaing35@hotmail.com

David B,

That does not mean it is clean. I suggest cleaning the audio heads and capstan...

From time to time the heads and tape path need cleaning, you cannot expect it to work properly by not doing so....

James

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