Featured models

Browse by date
β J F M A M J J A S O N D

Chat Page News
Sunday 26th March 2017

Please bookmark http://chat.palsite.com/chat_page.py as the new URL.

previous new post   refresh  next
Anne grindle
Wednesday 23rd September 2015
3:42 am U.K.


Where in Reno nv can I take my betamax for repair

Hellwyn Ballard
Tuesday 22nd September 2015
6:03 pm U.K.


I left my Sony SL-HF100B playing a tape to the end, and went out of the room.

When I came back, it had rewound but when I tried to eject the tape the unit switched itself off.

Now, when I try to switch on it clicks on for a microsecond then off again, and is then unresponsive until I switch it off/on at the wall, whereupon it just does the same thing.

The Clock displays as 0:00 and there's a red AU next to it. The red characters sometimes disappear soon afterwards.

What's happened?!

K Lambert
Monday 21st September 2015
11:52 pm U.K.



I don't know where you reside but I regularly refurbish/service these units and most other Sanyo's and most later Sony's so if you are in the UK feel free to contact me.

E-mail address is located under my name (hold the cursor over it).

Good luck whatever you do................Kev

dave collins
Monday 21st September 2015
9:14 pm U.K.


Thanks for the replies gents. I suspect it may be prudent to get the machine serviced rather than attempt a diy approach.

I dont really know much about these older machines other than they seem to have a lot more components than later VHS models.

Kind regards

Noel Higgins
Monday 21st September 2015
12:55 pm U.K.


Gabriel and Theo,

Sorry, I don't get on chat page that often these days. The fix for the broken load gear problem is detailed on Betamax Palsite, videos under "loading gear repair" on the technical page for the SLHF100.

The part is common to all the mid to late model Sony front load machines except for the very last ones. SLS2000 and SLHF950.

cheers Noel

K Lambert
Monday 21st September 2015
11:18 am U.K.



Also very importantly, quite a lot suffer with poor tape take up and need a fusible resistor and diode upgrade. Not all do though but if when changing out all the rubber for new and you press stop and the tape still doesn't go back in the cassette you will need the upgrade.

Also it helps to clean and refresh the bottom spool friction edge as these are usually ignored by most and can give a better grip with the new tyres and help this to last too.

You can also help by adding a very tiny drop of oil to the top of the reel motor bearing (just where you see the silver shaft go into the top of the motor.It usually has a clear plastic washer that you need to slide up first.

There is far more that benefits these but if you do what has been suggested it will help a LOT.

I agree these are bomb proof designs but many need more done to them now down to general neglect and age. Most is done cleaning,belt/rubber idler changing and very light oiling, but back tension checking (especially if the clutch under the left spool is tight or jammed),audio head azimuth, capacitors in the PSU (especially ones for the clock).Pinch roller and capstan shaft cleaning (some are really crudded up badly).Plus some have been badly messed about by those who really don't know what they are doing!!!.

I have many years working on these to testify those remarks :)

Oh and please keep WD40 away from these, spraying the entire cassette deck area ruins al lot of the friction parts!

Also NEVER EVER touch any of the tape guides( probably in the hope to make the tape move when the issue is with the reel drive,it put's all the important tape alignment out big time).NEVER use COTTON BUDS either especially near the head drum, it will catch and ruin the heads.I actually don't know why some 'experts' recommend using them for the other areas either.There are special cleaning sticks available from CPC.co.uk.

If you need any help feel free to message me.

Good luck................Kev

Monday 21st September 2015
6:10 am U.K.



Probably, all you have to do is changing the whole set of belts inside your machine (including the "tyre" fitted on the idler assembly). You will have to take all them apart and bring them to your local electronics shop so as to find a compatible replacement. Being lucky, this is the only thing you will have to carry out on that machine; they are bomb-proof and really well designed.



dave collins
Monday 21st September 2015
1:44 am U.K.


I have a problem with my VTC500. I put in the tape and press play, then the tape fails to load properly and when i take the tape back out the mylar is all loose and i have to wind it back in the tape. Any ideas anyone ?

Saturday 19th September 2015
10:06 pm U.K.


Myke, here is some information about the CV-2200 machine:


Also has a link to the manual!

And here some information about the Betamax machine:


As for interest, it will very much depend where you are located, there are people from around the world who post here.

Freight can be a real interest stopper...

Friday 18th September 2015
7:39 pm U.K.


My Dad worked for Sony in the 60's and left us 2 old beta machines one is a Betamax X2 and the other is a real early model he used as a salesman a CV2200 any info or interest in these

Wednesday 9th September 2015
5:18 pm U.K.


I dont know what happen in the last post.

A good friend of mine made me today a present . it Is a Sanyo vtc m10. This vcr has a little problem, whith pinch roller and i think the heads are dead too.

I have a vtc nx10 with dead heads but couple of days before i found some heads in an old sanyo technical service. The heads are compatible whit nx and m10 series so, So What VCR i should to repair?

Wednesday 9th September 2015
5:12 pm U.K.


Sanyo VTC NX10 VS VTC M10

Friday 4th September 2015
11:02 am U.K.



The problem with your machine is the typical load gear issue. Is it really prone to break and that leads to no unlacing. You have to remove the toothed eject belt and then the gearbox near the head drum. Gaining access to the underneath of that gearbox will show you a black gear which is broken/split. The best solution is to find a replacement, but due to lack of spares it is a good idea to fix it. Maybe Noel Higgins can submit further details about this fix, I recall he had a good technique for that.

Good luck,


Theo Wilderbek
Friday 4th September 2015
6:05 am U.K.


Hi guys. I recently got a Betamax SL-C30 PAL from a relative. I was testing some old Beta tapes and I noticed that anytime I ejected the tapes, the VCR was "spitting" them. But the real problem happened when I tested the last tape: the noise of loading was louder and now I am unable to eject the tape. I am not sure about what can be the real problem, so I uploaded a video on YouTube:


Thanks to anyone able to help

Bob Sherer
Thursday 3rd September 2015
5:20 am U.K.


I have an SL-F1 that at first loaded a tape with no problem but then would only run in one direction: FORWARD, and that at the FF rate, even when pushing "PLAY". I have had it apart several times, checking mechanical parts for freedom of movement, lubrication needs, etc., and reassembled it, but now all it will do when the POWER button is pushed is for the head drum to start spinning. No tape load, and no response at all following initial ON. The only way to turn it off is to turn the power supply off. While the head drum is spinning, the green light on the ON button flashes/blinks. This sounds like something in the electrical area that has gone wrong, but why would it have regressed to not even loading a tape?

I also have the "Service Manual", SL-F1UB, which has a few instructions about disassembly, as well as pictures of different subsections of the unit, as well as block diagrams and schematics, but there are no trouble shooting statements or flowcharts that one would expect in something called "service manual". Is there some other publication that hasa this? Surely everything wasn't diagnosed with a scope!

Help would be appreciated!

I have another SL-F1 that is identical to the one above. I purchased both at the same time from a JUNK bin at a recycle shop, thinking I could use one for parts. I was able to get the rougher, dirtier one to run, so hesitate to use it for parts now, and would prefer getting the the cleaner one up and running, as well. I live in Japan and purchased new an SL-F05 in 1983, and still own it. It was introduced that year to cater to home users, with a much reduced price compared to the F1. However, it has belts, which have degenerated in time and it refuses to load without some physical help, will play but doesn't respond well to FF or REWIND commands. Thus the purchase of these F1 's, in order to transfer the trove of tapes over to DVD.

Tuesday 1st September 2015
10:24 pm U.K.



Thankfully I have a scrap f30 so I used the transformer from that.😊


K lambert
Tuesday 1st September 2015
9:55 pm U.K.



Ah THAT transformer!

I've had to change a couple of those two. I still have two new transformers that I managed to obtain around 2010.

I also once had that fault on a Sanyo VTC M40 through the same item.That is quite rare for me on a Sanyo.


Tuesday 1st September 2015
5:46 pm U.K.



Out of interest do you know where I can buy a replacement for the faulty diode please?


Tuesday 1st September 2015
10:55 am U.K.


Hi Noel.

Yes the heads are spinning and the tape does get loaded and unloaded with no problems. It's intermittent as this morning it's working again 😕

I had a look on the technical page and it could be a diode on the servo board?

When I got this vcr the bloke (wwho had it from new) said he hadn't used it for 20 years. It's probably not used to being put through its paces 😆


Noel Higgins
Tuesday 1st September 2015
8:45 am U.K.



The audio transformer is a very common fault. The transformers suffer a combination of corrosion of the coil leads from solder flux and moisture/time plus vibration.

As for the stopping in those modes, two things to check.

1/ Is head drum motor still working? (i.e. Are the video heads spinning)

2/ Is the tape being picked up by the cassette take-up reel?

Both of these issues and the repairs are detailed on palsite.

cheers Noel

previous new post   refresh  next