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Chat Page News
Wednesday 26th April 2017

Please bookmark http://chat.palsite.com/chat_page.py as the new URL.

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Gabriel
Tuesday 3rd November 2015
1:58 pm U.K.

pleasenotreply@gmail.com

What kind of troll are you telling me I am "manipulative"? Are you suggesting I try to make a penny on this site? Come on, don't make me laugh.

Keep giving your advice with such arrogance, making friends wherever you post. Also enjoy your fantastic Sony NTSC machines my friend.

Jon Pierre
Tuesday 3rd November 2015
1:36 pm U.K.

jpie@yahoo.com

Cooper,

In my vast experience, the fact that you mentioned the motor "shuddered" is proof enough that one or both of the hall sensors failed. I've seen this many, many times and the fix is always the sensors. Period.

I.C. links failing would cause no shudder effect, so that suggestion is absurd.

Lots of bad info on this site as well as angry, manipulative "technicians". I use that word guardedly.

Let me re-state my original and correct fix:

"Kevin was correct in the first sentence of his first reply to your question.

Everything else that was written by him and others are superfluous.

You need to replace both hall sensors on the reel pc board and you will be fine.

Only problem is, the hall sensors are not available as replacement parts.

What I would do is purchase any cheap Sanyo (i.e. 5150, 4400 etc.) and take apart the capstan motor. There you will find 3 hall sensors that you can use to make your repair. Save the extra one for the head motor if it becomes necessary to replace it at a later date. Sanyos are good for that purpose, but never purchase one for archiving your video tapes.

All the best, thank you."

K lambert
Tuesday 3rd November 2015
12:23 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Sanyo vcr's are perfect for archiving video tapes to DVD or a PC.

Please disregard any comments to the contrary from a disgruntled Sony fanatic.

.thankyou.

pleasenotreply@gmail.com
Tuesday 3rd November 2015
12:21 pm U.K.

Gabriel

Superfluous? Are you 100% sure the cause of that failure are the Hall effect sensors? It is much better tracking the issue and isolate the failed component before making assumptions. Last time I saw a similar failure was caused by an IC link (PS fuse) so many factors are involved on these machines.

On the other hand, Sanyo betas are worth having machines, infinitely more reliable than Sonys. So, I don't see the point of using them as scrap for spares.

Jon Pierre
Tuesday 3rd November 2015
11:16 am U.K.

jpie@yahoo.com

Cooper,

Kevin was correct in the first sentence of his first reply to your question.

Everything else that was written by him and others are superfluous.

You need to replace both hall sensors on the reel pc board and you will be fine.

Only problem is, the hall sensors are not available as replacement parts.

What I would do is purchase any cheap Sanyo (i.e. 5150, 4400 etc.) and take apart the capstan motor. There you will find 3 hall sensors that you can use to make your repair. Save the extra one for the head motor if it becomes necessary to replace it at a later date. Sanyos are good for that purpose, but never purchase one for archiving your video tapes.

All the best, thank you.

pleasenotreply@gmail.com
Tuesday 3rd November 2015
8:50 am U.K.

Gabriel

Cooper,

In the previous post, I meant the configuration should be as follows:

Reel table connector pin Value (VDC)

1 -------------------------> 0V (Ground)

2 -------------------------> +12V

3 -------------------------> 0V (Ground)

4 -------------------------> +5V (thru the regulator or the +5V rail from the mentioned PC power supply)

Caution: All this should be performed with this assembly REMOVED/DISCONNECTED from the VCR. Otherwise, there is risk of short circuiting the servo board.

pleasenotreply@gmail.com
Tuesday 3rd November 2015
7:30 am U.K.

Gabriel

Cooper,

Regarding your issue with the reel motor, and according to Kev, first suspect from the two Hall effect sensors behind the rotor. I also remember that board having two or three capacitors which are easy to change. After that, I would check the transistors (6 x 2SD992) for open or leak. Sony betas are known for having problems with transistors.

Finally, if all six transistors are OK, last thing to "culprit" is the switch IC labeled as "877". I have not seen many of these failing but chances are still there.

It is also quite easy to check the whole motor board with the help of a 12V PSU. It has four terminals "1-2-3-4". First, try to identify the + / - terminals as follows: positive terminal 2 goes towards IC pin #8 and negative terminal 3 goes towards IC pin #9. Having these two identified, last thing to do is connecting connector terminal 1 to ground and terminal 4 to +5VDC (if your psu does not have an independent 5V output, you can perform this with a 7805 regulator). However, it is quite practical trying this with a computer power supply :-). Rotor should start to rotate if everything is OK.

Regards,

Gabriel

K lambert
Monday 2nd November 2015
11:07 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Cooper:

My apologies I was thinking about the capstan motor.

................Kevin

K lambert
Monday 2nd November 2015
9:11 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Cooper;

Whilst I've never come across that issue it does sound like you may have one failed hall effect sensor.

This is very common on the Sony's head drum down to glue that get's conductive over time.

The reel motor has three sensors.

I would've suspected towards a worn bearing but if you say the clearance is fine then that's all that's left. Especially since you describe the shudder. A sign that current is getting through.

If the hall effect sensor fails to the head drum and you try to turn the head disc from the top whilst the PLAY light is on you will feel resistance until the play light goes off.If it's not the sensor then the disc spins freely regardless.

Since you have some aspect of motion to the reel motor I would look there. Sadly you will have to find good used ones if it is the case.

Let us know.....................Kev

cooper
Monday 2nd November 2015
7:47 pm U.K.

derekcooper@hotmail.com

Basically I have no reel rotation FF/F/REW. I do have a video clip that I would like to post which clearly shows the fault (can I post this somewhere, somehow?). I checked clearance as per reel motor mod - which is fine - no sign of rubbing on coils. The motor does not spin on pressing any of the buttons unless assisted manually - sometimes if the rotor is in a specific position it will spin. In other positions the rotor does "shudder" but not spin - indicating that an induced magnetic field is present. Are there any further tests/checks that I could perform? I checked the induction coils with a multimeter and for what i know they seem fine.

K lambert
Monday 2nd November 2015
9:05 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Cooper:

Need to know what the issues are first my friend.

Post away.............Kev

Cooper
Monday 2nd November 2015
12:05 am U.K.

derekcooper@hotmail.com

Hi, Just been given a Sony SL-HF100 that had been stored for many years. Powered it up but have a slight problem with it. Have already checked this site Q&A's to see if issue covered - but not. Is this the place to ask technical questions? If so I will post more details, if not is there a technical resource site that you know of that could possibly help?

Jon Pierre
Sunday 1st November 2015
11:03 pm U.K.

jpie@yahoo.com

I have contacted Martin.

The Australian member's constant argumentative comments and attempts at goading me into personal attacks are being observed and taken under consideration.

They do not affect me, but we believe they denigrate the integrity of the Palsite

To continue my dissertation on video tape:

Betacam tapes are OXIDE based FerroCobalt doped tape. Betacam-SP tapes are

Metal Particle Tapes, not needed for SuperBeta or SHB-B1s at all, but work

fine if used for such, if you can afford it. Betacam-SP tapes are NOT

dangerous or injurious to SuperBeta VCRs at all. In fact they run ever

smoother with less wear than Oxide Tapes, by far , as has long been shown in

laboratory tests. Where does such Wrongful misinformation get started?

Chromium Dioxide tape when introduced to the audio and video world in 1970 was

also "rumored" FALSELY, to be injurious and damaging to standard tape heads

in older recorders. This was untrue also, as Dupont, who "invented" Chrome

tape, proved that they ran, smoother, and were LESS wearing to heads than

standard Oxide tapes. Why do people persist in believing that every NEW

advancement in Tape Technology is detrimental to previous technology heads?

I have a PhD in Clinical Psychology, and yet this "logic" or "lack of it"

eludes me totally, when it comes to man's stupidity!The only "TRUTH" that

can be demonstrated as real is that Americans universally have always,

historically, made the worst possible choice of technology, when given a

choice.The American dislike and abandonment of BETA, is not the only mistake

we have made, historically, in superior technology. In 1933 RCA-Victor Corp.

offered the Vinyl LP Record with Wide Band High Fidelity Sound to the public

in Listening Tests, at the Chicago Worlds Fair of 1933-34, where average Fair

Visitors were allowed to compare the sound quality in A-B tests with the

standard noisy shellac narrow band 78 RPM standard records of that time

period. By an overwhelming majority, the American Public chose the narrow

band noisy 78 RPM shellac records as their preference over the quiet running

Vinyl wide band HiFi LP Record !The LP was then given to the Radio

Networks who appreciated it superior quality and used it for Radio Broadcast

Transcription Recording, much the same as the American Public's rejection of

BETA allowed the TV Broadcast Industry to adopt BETA as the STANDARD of

Broadcast Recording in today's era.The same is true for the public's

rejection of Sony MiniDisc and DAT as a quality replacement for the 35 year

old standard audio cassette tape, and yet the Broadcast Radio & Recording

World took it and used it as their in field Recording Standard. It amazes me

how absolutely ignorant the choices of the American Public is HIS

K lambert
Sunday 1st November 2015
9:58 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Interesting comments you make there.....

I do agree that even the Beta tapes I have from the late seventies still play really well and all that talk about tape deterioration after so many years ,was nothing more than scare tactics to get you to buy the latest digital disc technology.

As for this tape 'ripping out to load' on Sanyo models.I seem to remember the Sony C5, 7 and C6 all utilised the same, if not VERY similar loading system and all the Sanyo models I own and have used a lot have never done any damage by stretching or the like by loading in this way.Sanyo decided to do this to extend the head/drum life and overcome these issues and judging by the ones I've seen it works pretty darn well.

Damage caused by being un serviced or by faulty/worn components yes but that is usually when trying to put the tape back in.

Also you could say ( and I still do) that Sony's always laced feature is even more detrimental (if quicker between modes) to tape wear and tear (and all heads) in the fast wind modes.Even more so than VHS as the Beta tape path is very tortuous.I'm sure you have come across the tape bumping syndrome when the upper drum has excessive friction causing Sony to make these out of a different alloy.

....

Jon Pierre
Sunday 1st November 2015
5:51 pm U.K.

jpie@yahoo.com

Let's talk video tape, which are all the same for NTSC and PAL.

I recently have had to get out some 20 to 25 year old recorded Beta Tapes

that were recorded for Broadcast at Standard Bl speed on industrial Sony

Betamax video recorders and edit them all together for a Historical

documentary I am doing for Broadcast locally. With all the talk of Video

Tape not holding up much past 10 to 15 years, unless extraordinary storage

measures are used, let me tell you my personal experience.

These 20 to 25 year old multiple brands of Beta Video Tape including the

brands of; Sony, 3M Scotch, Laser, and Maxell standard Betamax Tape bought

off the shelves of ordinary department stores at the time they were new, were

stored in all the WRONG ways, in ordinary room temperature, varying humidity

levels, not placed vertically as they should be, and yet every one of them

played back as well as if they had just been recorded freshly today the first

time. The sound, color, and picture were excellent, with no drop outs or

tape sticking or lubricant loss noted, and the picture quality of the old

original Bl Mono Color recordings done with Studio Cameras and Industrial

Sony Bl only Betamax video recorders was sharp and clean as can be without a

trace of aging, even across a quarter of a century of improper storage! So

don't worry about loss of image or sound quality or deteriorating tape or

oxide over that period of years as I own some Video Tape on open reel that is

30 years old that still plays fine too and with the worst possible storage

conditions as well. And remember these are samples of multiple brands of

Beta Tape including the low price "cheapo" brand of LASER Betamax Tape as

well, all of which performed like new regardless of brand after all these

years of improper storage. So your Betamax Video tapes you have should play

back equally as well 25 years from now, regardless of brand, also as long as

you have a working Betamax to play them on in the year 2025 and as long as

you do you can transfer them all to Sony Digital Video Tape at that future

date with confidence for showing during the rest of this Century and for

generations to come !!!However, if you use a SANYO model to view your tapes, you should be mindful that they virtually RIP the tape out of the cassette at a fast rate of speed. I needn't tell you of how dangerous that can be. Thank you.

K lambert
Sunday 1st November 2015
5:43 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Phil:

The sad thing is I've seen this quite a few times and the job made a lot worse and more time consuming.

One area that should never be touched unless absolutely necessary are the tape guides. Some it seems think by 'loosening them up' it will make the tape play better, when the issue is down to worn rubber components or issues with the reel drive motor.

These guides are factory set under strict tolerances and should never be moved unless ,as a last resort, maybe one is very slightly out of position. Which is extremely rare.

My advice is if your not sure leave well alone or get some good advice first.

There are also some really good vcr repair sites that can help in this area too. Admittedly these are getting thin on the ground but some still out there. Including this one. ALL free of course.

..Kev

Philip McKeown
Sunday 1st November 2015
5:13 pm U.K.

philip_mckeown@yahoo.co.uk

As Kev said, when problems arise with a Beta (or any machine containing electronics) it is prudent to seek expert advice first rather than attempting ANYTHING, otherwise chances are that a simple fault could be made much worse AND end up being either more expensive and time-consuming to correct, or result in irreparable damage.

Murray Walker summed this up beautifully along the lines of, those that can, DO, and those that can't, talk about it. I'm definitely only the latter, and even then it's still usually a load of {insert word here}!

K lambert
Sunday 1st November 2015
1:44 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

My mistake,you are in the US not Australia so that leaves 'Mr Betamax', and I seem to remember the general put downs of Sanyo Beta's there too.

Also if you're not 'in it for the money' you'd give you vcr's away.

I don't think the 'if you've got a brain you can do a repair' comment will go down well with many either. Quite insulting to those who cannot or are not willing to attempt such things.

I must say your first post isn't exactly a good way to introduce yourself and you shouldn't listen to other misguided individuals fabrications towards other genuine posters here either.

Enjoy your day...........Thankyou.

K lambert
Saturday 31st October 2015
11:05 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

..........Oh and just to add in case there are any more misquotes or accusations from 'certain individuals' advice that is FREE OF CHARGE and always has been.

Happy viewing ...........

K lambert
Saturday 31st October 2015
10:44 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Jon pierre

You obviously have the same schooling an attitude of your friend Steve it would seem.

Read the top of the page if your unsure PALSITE........

Also all this info is not what most here seem to desire.It's help and good genuine advice for their vcr's when they have issues or require help.

Your ramblings about ED beta and the like will go over many heads.

Also just curious are you Corbeta on e-bay?

.............

Philip McKeown
Saturday 31st October 2015
7:24 pm U.K.

philip_mckeown@yahoo.co.uk

Kev, can you believe the new poster's statement regarding the Sanyo 5150 being a "disgrace to the Betamax badge"? Recently recovered a 36-year-old UK television recording from a Betamax videotape using my 5150 which has been in almost daily use for the past 7 years and even then having been acquired as a second-hand unit, and the picture and sound quality was stunning.

Just like videotapes being able to be rewound and watched again, it seems as though it's deja vu on this board again, only more so.

Succinct and to the point, and not droning on. YAWN!

Jon Pierre
Saturday 31st October 2015
2:24 pm U.K.

jpie@yahoo.com

Guess I do not belong here?

It seems if posting Betamax facts do not interest Mr. Lambert, than the person posting should remain silent.

When did you become the arbiter of what should and should not be posted?

Also, for example, the Sanyo 5150 (sold here in Canada as the 4400) is a prime example of just one of many Sanyo models that were a disgrace to the Betamax badge.

They are no better that VHS slp with their poor video resolution and as we in the industry referred to the images as "clay people".

The tapes are loaded in them with a rapid "ripping out" motion that I always found quite harmful to the delicate video tapes.

By the way, their factory schematics are a horror to navigate.

I could go on, but enough. Sanyo did make a few acceptable models at the end of their run...but that's all.

Sorry for upsetting a member who apparently has personal reasons for his misguided appreciation of Sanyo video. I will continue to post here, despite any protests from our distinguished Australian member.

Jon Pierre
Saturday 31st October 2015
2:11 pm U.K.

jpie@yahoo.com

I'd like to acquaint you EU lads with the SUPER HI-BAND 6.0 Mhz or SHB-B1s. And in its ULTIMATE form as showcased in:

The 1991 Sony SLHF-2100 is spectacular as the 2100 incorporates SHB-B1s

with a 5 stage Digital Signal Processor (not Digital Effects processor) that

electronically cleans and digitally optimizes actively BOTH the incoming and

outgoing signals from Beta tapes so it improves even older Super Beta or

Standard Beta tapes in playback and makes recordings on the SLHF-2100

spectacular, especially considering it is the ONLY Prosumer VCR of ANY format

EVER to have seperate Video Heads for Recording and Playback with each

optimized for their specific function solely. It is a stupendous VCR, so far

ahead of anything even in today's video world of consumer VCRs that it's name

2100 stands for the Technology of the 21st Century!!! Which it most

certainly has. No finer Betamax VCR has ever been built !!! When Video

Magazine tested the 2100 in 1991, they reported that you could put anything

into it and get it back on playback virtually unaltered or loss free. You

can't do that with S-VHS or S-VHS ET or even SuperBeta for that matter. And

to top it all off it has S-Video Y/C input and output jacks and 3 inputs plus

a two way "talkback" LCD remote, 10 years before those kind of remotes became

popular and cost $350.00 alone now today as an add on by many companies such

as Harmon Kardon. And of course it has the VASTLY superior Beta HiFi system

of Stereo recording that matches CD quality to the letter 20-20,000 hz flat

and 95 db S/N ratio or better, with auto head cleaner and digital auto

tracking, plus a full dual VU meter, and visual Tracking Meter, plus context

sensitive digital report screen readout, and automatic pre-roll editing when

used with another 2100 or 1000, or 9500 Betamax and the Sony Auto Editor

unit, plus DUAL flying erase heads that take out BOTH fields of each frame of

video unlike single flying erase heads on S-VHS machines that leave parts of

the frame as moire effect in editing. And of course it has Insert Audio and

Insert Video editing capability, essential to any Professional Video

application. It is simply the FINEST Prosumer VCR Sony has ever made!

K lambert
Saturday 31st October 2015
2:08 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Betaphiles.

Just thought I'd point out this is PALsite not NTSC site so all this info regarding ED beta (Japan and US only) is a bit irrelevant, as the PAL versions weren't privy to those models.

Also Sanyo models video quality were not ALL inherently poor either.I don't even think any were poor maybe some a bit average. The budget end achieved quite decent results when you consider their price.My own 6500 and 5000 looked better on screen than those washed out and grainy VHS models around the same time(They had to use 'HQ' circuitry to even give them respectable results).The VTC M40 's picture bandwidth was around 2.8 and the Sony SLHF100 and most of their line up ( C20, 30,40 and F30 ) were 2.5.

We only had ONE Superbeta model in the UK and then Sony lost faith in the format over here and pursued 8mm and ED beta in Japan and the US.

Have you seen how basic the SLF25 was! It looked like they didn't care anymore and were trying just keeping the small amount of UK buyers content. It obviously didn't work.

...........K

Jon Pierre
Friday 30th October 2015
2:23 pm U.K.

jpie@yahoo.com

Reading some archived posts here on the chatpage, I've noticed questions concerning what the basic differences are within a class or year of Betamax VCRs in terms of sound and picture quality from the lowest priced

model to the top priced model, and if there is any difference. My answer of

course is, that within a given TYPE of Betamax, for example, SuperBeta HiFi

VCRs, there is virtually NO difference from the cheapest to the most

expensive in the performance of the Beta HiFi Stereo Sound system at all as

it is a function of the AFM Rotary Recording System that comprises the Beta

HiFi system that is the same in ALL of the Beta HiFi VCRs actually whether

they are Super Beta or Standard Beta or ED-Beta or B1s-Super High Band Beta.

The sound system is EXCELLENT with performance that is not effected by tape

brand or type at all and is flat from 20-20,000 hz within a fraction of a

decibel and with a Beta HiFi distortion too low to even hear, and a signal to noise ratio that

is 85 to 95 db depending on the recording levels set, which is fully

comparable to what is termed "CD Quality". And because it is not a linear

audio track, it is not subject to the variances of alignment azimuth of audio

heads either, so it is absolutely flawless in ANY Beta HiFi Stereo VCR ever

made and identical in all models ever made too.

However, the PICTURE quality does vary within a given type of Betamax VCR,

such as "SuperBeta" from the lowest priced to the highest priced models.

That's due to the quality of production standards, the tracking accuracy, the

amount and type of video noise reduction used, the type and number of heads

used, and the electronic specialty circuits added to the top models of the

SuperBeta line of VCRs such as the addition of the Faroudja Image Enhancement

System to some Sony SuperBeta VCRs which is marked on the back of your

Betamax if you have it. And obviously the TYPE of

Betamax VCR you have

(**Sanyos** are widely noted for poor video quality) also determines it's maximum Picture Quality too by the range of it's given VIDEO BANDWIDTH which determines the horizontal resolution of the Betamax TYPE. For example, SuperBeta has a wider Video Bandwidth than standard Beta, and Super Hi-Band B1s has a still wider yet Video Bandwidth than SuperBeta has, and ED-Beta has the widest Video Bandwidth of all and requires Metal Powder Tape to even work. There are also other factors that determine a VCRs picture quality such as it's White Clip level which determines its saturation of signal peak in the luminance portion of

the video signal. So I hope this helps you to understand the differences and sameness within various TYPES of Betamax VCRs in performance, and the "Beta Advantage" too !!! Thank you.

Jon Pierre
Thursday 29th October 2015
8:55 pm U.K.

jpie@yahoo.com

Been thinking more about my EDV and thought you EU folks would like to know a bit more about it, especially the Japanese version.

The Japanese Sony EDV-9000-PRO is in many ways identical to our former Sony

EDV-9500 in the USA and an almost virtual copy of the former Canadian Sony

EDV -9300.

It records and plays both in Super Beta and ED Beta formats and is N.T.S.C.

capable as ours are too. It has a different broadcast band in it's tuner and

direct Broadcast Satellite capability that our USA model does not. It

records SHB-B1s which our's do not in the USA or Canada. And it has the wood

end caps in Walnut in place of the USA EDV-9500 model's rack mount handles

and steel sides. It is a high performance Extended Definition Beta VCR with

a video bandwidth of 9.3 Mhz which is incredible ultra high band resolution.

And it records with both Beta HiFi Stereo AFM audio tracks and Linear Stereo

analog audio tracks with BNR Noise Reduction on those. It is marked with all

English markings on the controls as it is an export model. It records on

both Standard and Metal Powder Beta Tape in their respective formats. Has a

large Jog Shuttle on the front that is digitally assisted, has Digital Freeze

Frame, Scan, and Flash Motion, and is sitting on four chrome pods to raise it

up for proper ventilation. All in all it is a stunning machine !! Thank you.

Jon Pierre
Thursday 29th October 2015
6:04 pm U.K.

jpie@yahoo.com

By Dave mentioning the wonderful EDV -9300, it puts me in mind of the importance of the control track.

There seems to be some confusion over the need for and importance of a video

tape's control track. This has surfaced in many letters questioning what it

is and does. So let me explain it as simply as possible. In short the

Control Track which is recorded along the edge of the video tape, is the

equivalent of the Sprocket Holes on the edge of Motion Picture Film and

serves a similar purpose. Like Sprocket Holes it has control over the

presentation of each FRAME of Video much the same as the Sprocket Holes

control the FRAME and Synchronize it to the projector's precise projection

window frame inside the projector, centering it, advancing it the right

amount, moving it out and moving another frame into its place while a blank

section of the projector shutter is pulled around to blank out the between

frame parts of the film. The Video Control Track does all this too, making

sure the blanking interval is in position between frames, the picture is

presented in a series of frames and is timed correctly with the

synchronization of the TV monitor and VCR, scan line by scan line and field

by field of each frame. When interruptions, such as pauses are inserted in

the video Control Track, by a Consumer Grade VCR, it can cause the total

breakup of the picture on screen or the picture to roll or bend vertical

lines to one side called "flagging". The importance of this Video Control

Track being undisturbed from one end of the video tape to the other with no

breaks is of the same relevance as the need for the sprocket holes to be an

exact EVEN distance from each other with no breaks all the way from the

beginning of the film to the ending. Without either, the picture suffers

horrendous degradation in it's presentation such as the often seen shuttering

and stuttering movie projector that has lost it's sprocket hole

synchronization. I hope that explains it a bit better and why the need for

"Black Tracking" or recording an entire Video Control Track end to end of a

Video Tape to be Broadcast is so important as a first step as this lays down

an undisturbed control track all the length of the video tape. Only machines such as the SLHF-1000,SLHF-900, SLHF-2100, EDV-9000-PRO, EDV -9300, and EDV-9500 have such

capability in the Betamax series of recorders as they have the facilities for

INSERT EDITING that never touches the control track during editing of a

pre-black tracked video tape. Thank you.

Dave
Wednesday 28th October 2015
7:45 pm U.K.

fyx208@yahoo.ca

Hi I have a EDBeta EDV -9300 with quide and remote on ebay now sorry though with a reserve because I dont want to give it away

the link to it is here

http://my.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MyEbayBeta&CurrentPage=MyeBayNextAllSelling&ssPageName=STRK%3AME%3ALNLK%3AMESX

Jon Pierre
Tuesday 27th October 2015
12:42 pm U.K.

jpie@yahoo.com

Got an email from someone on this site who wishes to remain anonymous.

I do sell Betamax players and used tapes on eBay.

Will be happy to answer any and all questions about the Beta hobby.

If you have a soldering iron and a brain in your head you will be able to make a repair.

I will pay top dollar if you wish to sell a unit you cannot repair.

Also, I take trade ins for one of my refurbs. Not in this for the money (as some are), just for fun.

Thank you.

K lambert
Saturday 24th October 2015
10:21 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Noel:

If you were referring to the actual cassette insertion mechanism then a new belt usually cures that but I did have once on a M40 a weird fault where the flap wouldn't open up all the way on ejection. Even when comparing the whole mechanism alignment with one from a good one.

Speak soon...............Kev

K lambert
Saturday 24th October 2015
10:17 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Noel:

Also you stated about the tape not being pulled evenly. I've found it's down to the centre of the shaft being slightly worn. I've had that on a few 6500's and 5150's too. Changing that part out for a good one always cures that.

As for your loading ring issue. Check inner edge of the loading ring,the bit that touches those guide wheels.I've had two or three where a chunk has been broken off at the top inner part.(I feel someones tried to force things when those belt's give up, in order to retrieve a tape.

Also refresh the worm load screw/gear clutch and regrease the worm gear. Many 5000's and a few 5150's start to fail there now when putting a new belt on adds to those issues.

Let me know how it all goes.

...Kev

K lambert
Saturday 24th October 2015
10:10 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Noel:

Funnily enough I had exactly the same thing on a Sanyo m10 about 10 years ago and that's been it.Virtually all the capstan motors on Sanyo's are usually fine but it does indeed look like they can wear (or the upper bearing that stops the shaft allowing the magnet to rub on those coils).Maybe it's not down to wear but poor manufacturing because this one was a bit lop sided too, hence the slight wow the sound.

As for the loading mechanism issue,is it mechanical or electronic?

.........Kev

Noel Higgins
Saturday 24th October 2015
4:10 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.au

Kevin,

I am currently repairing a Sanyo VTCM10. New belts and a clean and still no go. I got the tape loaded by hand, even though there is a problem with the load mechanism and the machine has a great picture but warbling audio. I looked at the base of the capstan motor and noticed the changes were in syncronism with its rotation. I took off the capstan metal base holder/guard and pulled out the capstan magnet/shaft. It surprised me that the capstan motor in the Sanyo M10 wears like the problem reel motors of the SLHF950 sony machines. The magnet was slightly lop sided in its surface and was rubbing the legs of two of the hall sensors for about half of its rotation.

I replaced the capstan with one from a spares machine and although I am not happy that the tape is not pulling evenly in the tape path after the audio heads, the speed variation is gone.

Now back to find out what is wrong with the load mechanism.

cheers Noel

Chris Margrave Gregory
Friday 23rd October 2015
10:51 am U.K.

chris@thameside.tv

Hi

I am currently looking to buy a Sony BVU 950P (PAL and Must be working), if not I will also except a machine with TBC, TCG/R cards and TBC remote.

Very much look forward to hearing from you.

Kindest regards

Chris

email : chris@thameside.tv

Claudiu Blagu
Friday 23rd October 2015
6:31 am U.K.

c.blagu@flcfluid.com

Hello, I will soon post detailed problems that I have with the Sony Betamax that few have it.

K lambert
Thursday 22nd October 2015
1:03 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi to the genuine PAL Beta vcr enthusiasts.

Message to Simon Lincoln.

Feel free to contact me anytime for any further advice.

....Kev

Philip McKeown
Wednesday 21st October 2015
9:33 pm U.K.

philip_mckeown@yahoo.co.uk

The wonders that can be thrown up by recovering old Beta tape recordings not only amount to old continuity, but also the fantastic advertisements of yesteryear. Recently been reminded of a particular advert (possibly UK only) for an alcoholic beverage, in which several ancestors of humankind (before most of us completed the journey to adulthood), chanted a little ditty, which went something like: "Troll, troll, troll, troll; troll, troll, troll, troll..."

No, wait, might have got that slightly wrong!

Phil

Philip McKeown
Wednesday 21st October 2015
5:54 pm U.K.

philip_mckeown@yahoo.co.uk

Oh dear, it still seems a certain poster is so engrossed with his own anger he doesn't realise how hilariously silly he has become! BRILLIANT! Regulars, PLEASE come back now, forget the recent twaddle, and ignore all further rants. The troll is dead, long live ßETA!!!

Phil

Philip McKeown
Wednesday 21st October 2015
1:24 pm U.K.

philip_mckeown@yahoo.co.uk

As Steve has now rested his case, this board should now return to it's title: "Betamax video chat page"

I look forward to the return of the posters whose knowledge about specific electronic components on various PCB's in different models, should be checked in the first instance when attempting to find faults. Reading those posts is always a source of fascination and inspiration. This coming from someone who has now begun to try simple repairs for himself...

PS Kev, I promise I'll do my best not to make any fault even worse before you get my machines for repair again!

Phil

K lambert
Tuesday 20th October 2015
9:37 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Simon:

Thanks for the message.

Can you send your e-mail address?

Cheers...............Kve

K lambert
Tuesday 20th October 2015
9:35 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

I rest my case.

Out of interest what part of the world are you posting from?

................

K lambert
Tuesday 20th October 2015
6:13 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

STEVE:

YOU really should learn not to hold grudges.It's so obvious the way you sarcastically refer to others.

Also since when did you become the board spokesperson?

You bring new meaning to the word condasending.

Oh and I don't need you to answer or explain things for me,i'm well aware of what's going on.

Just keep reffering people to YOUTUBE.

...........

Simon Lincoln
Tuesday 20th October 2015
4:37 pm U.K.

simonlincoln2@hotmail.co.uk

Hi there this is a post for Mr Kevin Lambert

Hi Kevin i have a Sanyo vtc 5000 with two issues, 1 i think the belt has perished on the main moter wheel 2, when itdid work i could not get play back from either ariel or AV connectors although strangley when test signal was on the audio was nice and clear, flick switch back and nothing

Just wondering would you be willing to work on my machine and bring it back to life?

Thanks Kevin heres hoping

P.s keep up the outstanding work you do for other enthusiasts as it is very rare now to get people to look at these machines

ALAN HEBRON
Sunday 18th October 2015
9:54 pm U.K.

ALANHEBRON1937@GMAIL.COM

I am hoping to bring my Sony SLF1UB back to life after some years. Lying in a cupboard. It has served me well since new in 1982. through to the early 1990s

I plugged the cassette recorder in and it lit up the usual lights. There was a cassette in the recorder which I ejected. I then closed the lid manually and proceeded to insert another

cassette to view. However on pressing the eject button the lid refused to open. I was wishing I had not closed in the first place. That is my problem? has anyone any experience of this and should I be looking for a fault inside electrically or mechanically. Your help would be appreciated.

K lambert
Sunday 18th October 2015
3:07 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Keep talking to yourself my friend,this board is going to become a lonely place.

Knock yourself out.

K lambert
Sunday 18th October 2015
10:58 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Phil

The tantalum caps replacement recommended by someone here does NOT apply to the Sanyo 5150 (the Sony C6 yes).

Also STEVE if you can't call me by my proper name don't mention me at all in future.Pretty childish!

Will only be contacting people who ask for help by e-mail now seeing as this board has been infiltrated by a let's say annoying individual.

Happy videoing guys................Kev

Noel Higgins
Saturday 17th October 2015
10:19 pm U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.au

Kevan,

I have never seen an SLC9AS (Australian model) in black but I sent a picture of a machine I once saw advertised on eBay to the site managers and you can see it at http://www.palsite.com/slc9ovi.html

I also saw in an early sales brochure that there was also a gold/bronze coloured model but I have never seen one.

cheers Noel

Philip McKeown
Saturday 17th October 2015
5:08 pm U.K.

philip_mckeown@yahoo.co.uk

For KEV and the other 'real' helpers: the trusty Sanyo VTC5150 has recently started displaying tracking problems (on every tape now), which CAN be corrected to a degree with the control knob, but CAN'T fully resolve a fluttery image at, usually, the very top of the picture. Electronic issues, and/or mechanical adjustments too? Thanks in advance.

Phil

James McCarty
Saturday 17th October 2015
4:32 am U.K.

james_mccarty78@hotmail.com

Hello, I have the Sony Betamax SL-C20 and there's a slight problem with the playback.

Most of the time it works fine except there are moments when I lose both the picture and sound instantly and just get a black screen with no sound.

I have tried using new rca/phono leads and there is still the same problem.

The tape is still playing, it's not stopping.

I'm guessing it's a loose connection, but I don't want to make naive assumptions.

Does anyone know anything about this problem? Any help would be appreciated!

Thank you.

James

Roderick
Friday 16th October 2015
9:56 pm U.K.

nospam@chatpage.co.uk

Kevin, were there ever any black C9 's in any format?

I certainly have only seen silver ones, the 4 I own are all silver, and even the 'professional' version, the SLO420, only came in silver.

Be interesting if anyone knows of a black SL-C9, would certainly be interesting.

K Lambert
Friday 16th October 2015
6:35 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Noel:

Did the Australian C9 come in black?

..........Kev

K Lambert
Friday 16th October 2015
10:27 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Noel:

Yes it's the same one .One each end of a hexagonal type metal rod at the base of the loading cassette hatch mechanism.

Sanyo redesigned this later as that type was a bigger heavier more complex unit and their first for a front loader. The later styles are literally bomb proof so long as you remember to change that belt after time.

The belt slipping was the most common issue for the 6500 mechanism.

I also rough up the pulley this goes to over that worm gear as it seems to over come this longer with a new belt and some light grease.

Also worth noting the flap that drops down to stop two tapes going in needs to be held up when securing that top plate or better still put the cassette hatch in the tape inside position.

It's to easy to secure the top plate with it dropped slightly only to get stuck under the cassette cradel when trying to insert a tape.

Interesting too about the black gears to the C9. I've always liked the idea of a black front panel and case for my C9 . Only available on the ES model though. The black gives it a really high tech look I feel.

...............Kev

Noel Higgins
Friday 16th October 2015
6:43 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.au

Kevin,

They were the only Sanyo I saw that duplicated the Sony SLC9s tape present playing position in an LED array.

The load gears I am talking about are the small gears (about 1cm diameter) either end of the bar behind the front cover.

Another thing I saw recently for the first time was black plastic load gears in an SLC9AS. They must have released them in the very last models when they realized the white plastic gears got hard and broke. The only other machine I have seen these in is the non-tuner version of an SLC9 called the SLO420.

cheers Noel

K Lambert
Friday 16th October 2015
1:34 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Noel:

Yes we do have that model.I have one of my own and a few more to sort out.

I used to repair the cracked front membrane from behind so long as it was all there. A good friend of mine is currently designing some for this out of silicone material and in silver not the horrible gold colour.

interestingly when Sanyo advertised them they had silver membranes.

I have come across one some time ago that had a cracked white side loading gear. It made the cassette slot a bit uneven.

I've never seen another like that though.

It's a pretty decent model with some nice unique features and performance is pretty good too.

One to look out for and now those membranes can be made new again even better.

Cheers Noel...................Kev (what this page is all about )

Noel Higgins
Thursday 15th October 2015
11:19 pm U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.au

Kevin,

I don't know if you had the Sanyo VTC6500 model over there in UK. Their main issue is cosmetic because the flexible rubberized cover over the front control switches goes hard over time and breaks away so I made up replacements for those by printing the key information on adhesive backed paper and protecting the top surface with clear contact paper.

I have also fixed a few recently with broken load gears or that had jammed. The grease goes hard over time and the friction increases. I saw one the other day however that had jammed because someone had managed to slip in a tape when one was already loaded which was unusual. I guess the tape reject flap had jammed. The broken gears can be repaired if they have not completely broken in half by using a pin and glue technique.

cheers Noel

K Lambert
Thursday 15th October 2015
8:36 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Steve:

No my friend your behaviour on here IS the problem.

And where has anyone on here stated taking peoples money.Yet another innuendo.

I think you get a big kick stirring things up don't you?

Some are beyond help I feel.

Each to their own.

Time to move on.

.....

K Lambert
Thursday 15th October 2015
6:30 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Steve:

What's the matter my friend you can give it out but it seems cannot take it.

You come on here accusing people of ripping people off and stating NOT to communicate or discuss things off this site because of past dealings you've obviously had with rogues on here,that we know nothing about, and obviously many years ago.

Then when myself replies and states this fact you accuse me or protesting?!!!

The reactions you are getting is because of the quite frankly insulting and beligerant remarks and orders you are throwing around.

Those of us here who can will always help out another enthusiast in whatever way we both decide NOT YOU.

I also like the way you twist everything around to make you look like the innocent party.

You HAVE been on here before THAT is what I was referring to with my 'no comment' remark. I do remember you now with the same style and attitude as do we all.

Steve if you've been ripped off get over it and move on. Most of us have had experiences in our lifetimes of similar (try using e-bay )but we learn by them and move on. Can I suggest you do the same?

Other than that that's all I will say on this.

I'll send you some love too because I think you could do with this and maybe it will help you to go forward again.

.........

K Lambert
Thursday 15th October 2015
1:29 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Steve;

ME THINKS DOW DOST PROTEST TOO MUCH.............:)

Noel Higgins
Thursday 15th October 2015
8:32 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.au

Steve,

OK you can fake me by copying my post, but you really know nothing of value to this page.

Have fun within your limits.

cheers Noel

Steve
Wednesday 14th October 2015
1:30 pm U.K.

steven123@yahoo.com

Now they are asking me HOW to clean the heads that they admit now are for the HI-FI and may be clogged.

Now they want me to advise them which ones to clean and how to clean them..If you don't know,stop giving advise on here.

Tell you what, A cleaning tape wont work.

You finally admit that the heads could be clogged is enough for me..

I'm not going back and forth with (( name )) calling because I give a simple fix to a problem.

You see folks..Don't try to take away business from these angry tech's on here, by giving simple fixes.. No money in that for them.

Have a nice day and stop posting about me..TY

Noel Higgins
Wednesday 14th October 2015
8:47 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.au

Roderick,

Your quite right, but we don't want to stop an expert giving out some good advice.

Steve,

Tell them how to clean the heads properly without damaging them and how they know which are the HiFi heads or the video heads and does it matter?

cheers Noel

Steve
Wednesday 14th October 2015
12:39 am U.K.

steven123@yahoo.com

Sorry folks for making the suggestion to just clean the 2 HI-FI heads on that SL-HF950. .

I see we have another repairman Roderick.. who is now name calling me for my post.

OK, don't clean those heads..Let someone replace them with used heads or if lucky new one..

If your tapes are degraded and clog the new heads , just do as said and clean the 2 HI-FI heads.

Have a nice vacation Roderick..and take a chill; pill..

Roderick
Tuesday 13th October 2015
9:04 pm U.K.

nospam@chatpage.co.uk

Oh dear, if the spam attacks on this page weren't bad enough we now have the rolls back - yeah!

Knock yourself out Steve, I'll be back in a few weeks and hopefully you'll have grown bored enough by then to let things go back to a helpful page for enthusiasts.

Trolls, ignore them and they'll go away.

Steve
Monday 12th October 2015
1:44 pm U.K.

steven123@yahoo.com

Noel,

2 of the heads are for the Hi-FI which I guess you either forgot or just don't want him to know and can become clogged by degrading tapes

I guess telling the poor sole to clean the heads is not cost effective for you?..

Ill try to stay out of your Betamax business on this page.

This is why I originally posted about the past on here..Now you all see why

Noel Higgins
Monday 12th October 2015
4:57 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.au

Steve,

One rookie suggestion about cleaning the heads in a total of six posts is not going to make you the grand master of this site any more than spreading innuendo.

If there is a problem with what people are suggesting or doing for others then I have not seen any evidence of that from posts on this site in recent years. What we have had are abusive comments from some wanting to make trouble rather than help.

All the best in beta for the true enthusiasts.

cheers Noel

Steve
Sunday 11th October 2015
1:17 pm U.K.

steven123@yahoo.com

oqie, Just try cleaning the heads properly on the SL-HF950 first and see if that solves the losing HI-FI.

If you have a problem just let me know on here only..No off air emails..

Steve
Saturday 10th October 2015
11:13 am U.K.

steven123@yahoo.com

Kevin, I am confused, now you Both say what I stated about bad dealing is now familiar?

Lets talk about Betamax's and stop the girl talk back and forth about being familiar with the goings on here in the past.

I just brought up facts about bad dealing and had nothing to do with anyone on here now..

K Lambert
Friday 9th October 2015
7:44 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

.No comment............:)

Noel Higgins
Friday 9th October 2015
12:42 pm U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.au

Hey Kevin - This all sounds a bit too familiar.

Steve
Sunday 4th October 2015
8:24 pm U.K.

Steven1025@yahoo.com

I never mentioned any names that are currently on this chat page..

Only the "repair" people from the past..

Stop defending anyone on this page.. Sure they are all honest.

As Kevin said, no one should ever send any monies to anyone until you receive the unit back and repaired.

Let's all calm down...I regret even mentioning anything about crooks from the past.

Philip McKeown
Sunday 4th October 2015
2:02 pm U.K.

philip_mckeown@yahoo.co.uk

Unsure as to whether or not Steve's comment is insinuating anything against any particular individual, but I would like to take this opportunity to state outright that I have only ever used the services of KEVIN LAMBERT from this site, and he is 100% genuine in his technical capabilities, and is a very nice person to converse with too.

Without Kevin's expertise, my Sanyo Betamax machines would have died a long time ago.

Steve, if you have had problems with a specific person or persons in the past, it would be helpful to let us ALL know, so we can be aware, and who knows, maybe get answers...

Steve
Sunday 4th October 2015
11:35 am U.K.

Steven1025@yahoo.com

Kevin, in the words of William Shakespeare:

ME THINKS DOW DOST PROTEST TOO MUCH

K Lambert
Thursday 1st October 2015
9:39 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Steve

And we all appreciate the heads up.

I don't know those you mention either, so just as well.

I just find it surprising some send people they don't know a vcr to be fixed AND the money too.

You only ask for monies when the work is done.ANYONE asking for both at the same time should be eyed with suspicion,in my opinion.

......Kevin

Steve
Thursday 1st October 2015
4:15 pm U.K.

Steven1025@yahoo.com

OK Kevin , Maybe Andy Sanchez and the other group were the last one on here that received machines and money, but the units ended up being sold on eBay..

I just tell the folks to beware that all..They can send machines and money to everyone.

Nothing personal to any of you.. I just have a good memory of what went on here...

K Lambert
Wednesday 30th September 2015
1:34 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Steve:

Knowone to my knowledge on this site has ever done that.

There are only a few who can sort these out now .

I appreciate what you are saying but the ones here are all genuine,that I know of.

Mind you if you are silly enough to send a vcr AND monies before it's sorted then ....well says it all really.

......Kevin

K Lambert
Wednesday 30th September 2015
1:30 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi

More than likely you have worn Beta hi-Fi heads.

Possibly a fault in the Hi-Fi processing circuitry.

Or have you considered the fact what you are playing wasn't recorded in Beta Hi-Fi.The early tapes weren't as it wasn't available then.

If the Beta Hi-Fi green illumination doesn't turn on it's normally because the tape you are playing doesn't have that signal on it.

I believe on the Sony hi-Fi decks if you have the sound switch to AUTO and it does have Beta Hi-Fi on the tape but the heads or whatever are causing the signal to not be produced it will just go silent.If you play a tape with No Beta Hi-Fi on it, even if the switch is set to AUTO, then it will automatically play the mono edgetrack sound.You will know IF that is the case as the Green Beta hi-Fi illuminator won't light up.

Hope this helps...............Kevin

oqie
Wednesday 30th September 2015
3:55 am U.K.

oqie.designesia@gmail.com

Hi, I have betahifi sl-hf950, why betahifi does not work every time I played the tape?, so the sound produced becomes mono not stereo, betahifi auto selector already in position, but betahifi indicator is not turn on, no one knows what causes it, thanks ^_^

Steve
Tuesday 29th September 2015
12:00 pm U.K.

Steven1025@yahoo.com

Great site, but beware of folks who want YOU to do business off this site..

Have horror stories of folks sending VCR and money to people on here and ending up the loser.

Enjoy,ask questions and that ALL

Be safe

alm7rom
Wednesday 23rd September 2015
11:21 pm U.K.

alm7rom1985@gmail.com

Sony SL-T7ME Clock does not work How to fix it ...???

K Lambert
Wednesday 23rd September 2015
10:02 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hellwyn:

I may be wrong but it sounds to me like you have PSU issues.

Have the capacitors been checked/changed recently?

It's the first thing I do on ANY beta I work on ESPECIALLY the Sony's which always have quite a few going high ESR down to heat.

...Kevin

Anne grindle
Wednesday 23rd September 2015
3:42 am U.K.

tinladie@hotmail.com

Where in Reno nv can I take my betamax for repair

Hellwyn Ballard
Tuesday 22nd September 2015
6:03 pm U.K.

ibex_t@hotmail.com

I left my Sony SL-HF100B playing a tape to the end, and went out of the room.

When I came back, it had rewound but when I tried to eject the tape the unit switched itself off.

Now, when I try to switch on it clicks on for a microsecond then off again, and is then unresponsive until I switch it off/on at the wall, whereupon it just does the same thing.

The Clock displays as 0:00 and there's a red AU next to it. The red characters sometimes disappear soon afterwards.

What's happened?!

K Lambert
Monday 21st September 2015
11:52 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Dave

I don't know where you reside but I regularly refurbish/service these units and most other Sanyo's and most later Sony's so if you are in the UK feel free to contact me.

E-mail address is located under my name (hold the cursor over it).

Good luck whatever you do................Kev

dave collins
Monday 21st September 2015
9:14 pm U.K.

davcol98@live.com

Thanks for the replies gents. I suspect it may be prudent to get the machine serviced rather than attempt a diy approach.

I dont really know much about these older machines other than they seem to have a lot more components than later VHS models.

Kind regards

Noel Higgins
Monday 21st September 2015
12:55 pm U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.au

Gabriel and Theo,

Sorry, I don't get on chat page that often these days. The fix for the broken load gear problem is detailed on Betamax Palsite, videos under "loading gear repair" on the technical page for the SLHF100.

The part is common to all the mid to late model Sony front load machines except for the very last ones. SLS2000 and SLHF950.

cheers Noel

K Lambert
Monday 21st September 2015
11:18 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Dave:

Also very importantly, quite a lot suffer with poor tape take up and need a fusible resistor and diode upgrade. Not all do though but if when changing out all the rubber for new and you press stop and the tape still doesn't go back in the cassette you will need the upgrade.

Also it helps to clean and refresh the bottom spool friction edge as these are usually ignored by most and can give a better grip with the new tyres and help this to last too.

You can also help by adding a very tiny drop of oil to the top of the reel motor bearing (just where you see the silver shaft go into the top of the motor.It usually has a clear plastic washer that you need to slide up first.

There is far more that benefits these but if you do what has been suggested it will help a LOT.

I agree these are bomb proof designs but many need more done to them now down to general neglect and age. Most is done cleaning,belt/rubber idler changing and very light oiling, but back tension checking (especially if the clutch under the left spool is tight or jammed),audio head azimuth, capacitors in the PSU (especially ones for the clock).Pinch roller and capstan shaft cleaning (some are really crudded up badly).Plus some have been badly messed about by those who really don't know what they are doing!!!.

I have many years working on these to testify those remarks :)

Oh and please keep WD40 away from these, spraying the entire cassette deck area ruins al lot of the friction parts!

Also NEVER EVER touch any of the tape guides( probably in the hope to make the tape move when the issue is with the reel drive,it put's all the important tape alignment out big time).NEVER use COTTON BUDS either especially near the head drum, it will catch and ruin the heads.I actually don't know why some 'experts' recommend using them for the other areas either.There are special cleaning sticks available from CPC.co.uk.

If you need any help feel free to message me.

Good luck................Kev

Gabriel
Monday 21st September 2015
6:10 am U.K.

pleasenotreply@gmail.com

Dave,

Probably, all you have to do is changing the whole set of belts inside your machine (including the "tyre" fitted on the idler assembly). You will have to take all them apart and bring them to your local electronics shop so as to find a compatible replacement. Being lucky, this is the only thing you will have to carry out on that machine; they are bomb-proof and really well designed.

Regards,

Gabriel

dave collins
Monday 21st September 2015
1:44 am U.K.

davcol98@live.com

I have a problem with my VTC500. I put in the tape and press play, then the tape fails to load properly and when i take the tape back out the mylar is all loose and i have to wind it back in the tape. Any ideas anyone ?

Roderick
Saturday 19th September 2015
10:06 pm U.K.

nospam@chatpage.co.uk

Myke, here is some information about the CV-2200 machine:

http://www.labguysworld.com/Sony_CV-2200.htm

Also has a link to the manual!

And here some information about the Betamax machine:

http://www.betainfoguide.net/Pix.htm

As for interest, it will very much depend where you are located, there are people from around the world who post here.

Freight can be a real interest stopper...

myke
Friday 18th September 2015
7:39 pm U.K.

myke245@hotmail.com

My Dad worked for Sony in the 60's and left us 2 old beta machines one is a Betamax X2 and the other is a real early model he used as a salesman a CV2200 any info or interest in these

joe
Wednesday 9th September 2015
5:18 pm U.K.

jcvfabogado@gmail.com

I dont know what happen in the last post.

A good friend of mine made me today a present . it Is a Sanyo vtc m10. This vcr has a little problem, whith pinch roller and i think the heads are dead too.

I have a vtc nx10 with dead heads but couple of days before i found some heads in an old sanyo technical service. The heads are compatible whit nx and m10 series so, So What VCR i should to repair?

joe
Wednesday 9th September 2015
5:12 pm U.K.

jcvfabogado@gmail.com

Sanyo VTC NX10 VS VTC M10

Gabriel
Friday 4th September 2015
11:02 am U.K.

pleasenotreply@gmail.com

Theo,

The problem with your machine is the typical load gear issue. Is it really prone to break and that leads to no unlacing. You have to remove the toothed eject belt and then the gearbox near the head drum. Gaining access to the underneath of that gearbox will show you a black gear which is broken/split. The best solution is to find a replacement, but due to lack of spares it is a good idea to fix it. Maybe Noel Higgins can submit further details about this fix, I recall he had a good technique for that.

Good luck,

Gabriel

Theo Wilderbek
Friday 4th September 2015
6:05 am U.K.

theo.wilderbeek@gmail.com

Hi guys. I recently got a Betamax SL-C30 PAL from a relative. I was testing some old Beta tapes and I noticed that anytime I ejected the tapes, the VCR was "spitting" them. But the real problem happened when I tested the last tape: the noise of loading was louder and now I am unable to eject the tape. I am not sure about what can be the real problem, so I uploaded a video on YouTube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iw0FzBjn8s

Thanks to anyone able to help

Bob Sherer
Thursday 3rd September 2015
5:20 am U.K.

rsherer@coral.plala.or.jp

I have an SL-F1 that at first loaded a tape with no problem but then would only run in one direction: FORWARD, and that at the FF rate, even when pushing "PLAY". I have had it apart several times, checking mechanical parts for freedom of movement, lubrication needs, etc., and reassembled it, but now all it will do when the POWER button is pushed is for the head drum to start spinning. No tape load, and no response at all following initial ON. The only way to turn it off is to turn the power supply off. While the head drum is spinning, the green light on the ON button flashes/blinks. This sounds like something in the electrical area that has gone wrong, but why would it have regressed to not even loading a tape?

I also have the "Service Manual", SL-F1UB, which has a few instructions about disassembly, as well as pictures of different subsections of the unit, as well as block diagrams and schematics, but there are no trouble shooting statements or flowcharts that one would expect in something called "service manual". Is there some other publication that hasa this? Surely everything wasn't diagnosed with a scope!

Help would be appreciated!

I have another SL-F1 that is identical to the one above. I purchased both at the same time from a JUNK bin at a recycle shop, thinking I could use one for parts. I was able to get the rougher, dirtier one to run, so hesitate to use it for parts now, and would prefer getting the the cleaner one up and running, as well. I live in Japan and purchased new an SL-F05 in 1983, and still own it. It was introduced that year to cater to home users, with a much reduced price compared to the F1. However, it has belts, which have degenerated in time and it refuses to load without some physical help, will play but doesn't respond well to FF or REWIND commands. Thus the purchase of these F1 's, in order to transfer the trove of tapes over to DVD.

Richard
Tuesday 1st September 2015
10:24 pm U.K.

rsleeman@live.co.uk

Kevin.

Thankfully I have a scrap f30 so I used the transformer from that.😊

Richard.

K lambert
Tuesday 1st September 2015
9:55 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Richard

Ah THAT transformer!

I've had to change a couple of those two. I still have two new transformers that I managed to obtain around 2010.

I also once had that fault on a Sanyo VTC M40 through the same item.That is quite rare for me on a Sanyo.

..Kev

Richard
Tuesday 1st September 2015
5:46 pm U.K.

rsleeman@live.co.uk

Noel.

Out of interest do you know where I can buy a replacement for the faulty diode please?

Richard.

Richard
Tuesday 1st September 2015
10:55 am U.K.

rsleeman@live.co.uk

Hi Noel.

Yes the heads are spinning and the tape does get loaded and unloaded with no problems. It's intermittent as this morning it's working again 😕

I had a look on the technical page and it could be a diode on the servo board?

When I got this vcr the bloke (wwho had it from new) said he hadn't used it for 20 years. It's probably not used to being put through its paces 😆

Richard.

Noel Higgins
Tuesday 1st September 2015
8:45 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.au

Richard,

The audio transformer is a very common fault. The transformers suffer a combination of corrosion of the coil leads from solder flux and moisture/time plus vibration.

As for the stopping in those modes, two things to check.

1/ Is head drum motor still working? (i.e. Are the video heads spinning)

2/ Is the tape being picked up by the cassette take-up reel?

Both of these issues and the repairs are detailed on palsite.

cheers Noel

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