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Chat Page News
Sunday 26th March 2017

Please bookmark http://chat.palsite.com/chat_page.py as the new URL.

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khaled zwai
Monday 13th June 2016
1:20 pm U.K.

k.zwai@alarmtec.com.ly

Dear Sir

how can I get the service manual of SL-200ME MKII.

khaled zwai
Monday 13th June 2016
1:17 pm U.K.

k.zwai@alarmtec.com.ly

Dear Sir

I have sony Betamax model sl-200me mkii, only the green LED is lit when the plug turned on , the power switch dose not give any action ,,only the green lit is on

Roderick
Sunday 12th June 2016
10:28 pm U.K.

nospam@chatpage.co.uk

Noel,

I have been 3D printing gears for Betacam machines ( BVW-75 loading gear) with great success.

Tried the small SLC9 loading gears but my very cheap printer doesn't have the resolution for those.

But larger gears are certainly an option, the plastics are quite strong.

Noel Higgins
Sunday 12th June 2016
1:23 pm U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Tony and Kevin,

I must admit I have had quite a few originals break that were too far gone in that they completely crumbled into at least 2 pieces.

Good work on coming up with alternatives for the Sony load gear issues.

What we really need now are replacements for the Sony SLC9 gears.

It should be possible to churn them out easily with 3D printers but I am not sure how robust the plastics from that process are.

cheers Noel

TONY
Saturday 11th June 2016
11:39 am U.K.

tonygim62@gmail.com

I have solved buying this piece. you just have to spend a bit of 2.3mm along the axis that is is 2mm. and on top it is brass.

http://www.maquetascasagimenez.com/pi-on-laton.html

http://www.maquetascasagimenez.com/pi-on-de-plastico-exp-verde.html

http://www.microlog.net/

K lambert
Saturday 11th June 2016
8:52 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Tony:

That info is what was posted by Noel Higgins for those who cannot obtain a replacement gear as a viable if tricky solution.

I did manage to find a replacement, not original but does the job nicely,fits tight and had one less tooth (so is a tad noisier in operation, but then again so is the repaired one:)and seems to be made from a more resilient material that hopefully won't crack..

...Kev

TONY
Thursday 9th June 2016
8:08 pm U.K.

tonygim62@gmail.com

there is video to see this process of reconstruction?

Loading gear and shaft repair

The loading shaft for the Sony has no replacement but most times it can be repaired, unless the gear is in two pieces or a tooth has broken off.

Here is how to repair the shaft when it is out of the machine:

Remove the black plastic gear from the shaft and then clean the shaft of all plastic residue.

Take the gear and pass a hobby knife (or similar narrow blade) down through the gear crack to remove any plastic residue to allow it to close to its correct gap width.

Place the gear in a soft jaw vice such that you can apply pressure to close up the gear crack.

Now use a drill with the same diameter as the outside diameter of metal drive shafts knurled shaft end to clean out the rough plastic residue from the shaft hole.

Take the gear out of the vice. Take the shaft and put super-glue on it and press the shaft back into the gear.

Put the assembly back into the vice again (with the shaft facing down flat, gear top facing up) closing up the gap again but leaving about 3mm of the gear exposed above the top of the vice. (note the gap is facing across the vice gap).

Drill a hole the diameter of paper-clip metal through the top of the gear and shaft but just below the surface of the top disc.

Insert the wire from an unfolded paper clip and turn both ends hard up, then trim off the excess metal. This will lock the plastic gear to the shaft and should keep tension across the gear and not encourage the gap to open up again.

Remove any excess super glue from the cracked tooth gap.

K lambert
Thursday 9th June 2016
7:19 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Jhonn:

That's not a UK spec Sony so I have no idea.

Sorry................Kevin

Jhonn
Thursday 9th June 2016
3:17 am U.K.

Arabra24@hotmail.cl

Hi. Please help. Beta sony sl2400 not start. Only clock waht is the problems?

K lambert
Sunday 5th June 2016
8:56 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Fransisco:

I would look at the PSU for high ESR capacitors. Maybe even the odd transitor is leaky but I would suspect a few poor caps.

..Kev

brysam
Sunday 5th June 2016
2:16 pm U.K.

brysamuels@aol.com

Hello - my Dad has a VR2022 and a large number of tapes which he would like to convert to dvd or ideally to computer files for safekeeping (old family videos, etc) - the number of tapes he has means it would unfortunately be very costly to send the tapes to a company to do it. Therefore I am wondering if anyone knows of any companies which sell the kit required to convert the tapes.

Thanks

Francisco
Sunday 5th June 2016
10:36 am U.K.

fjaviermv@lycos.com

I just received a SONY C-20. The clock is fixed in 00:00, and don't switch on. Any idea?

K lambert
Saturday 4th June 2016
7:43 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Try the U-matic chatpage.

All here are Betamax only.

......Kevin

Mike Featherstone
Friday 3rd June 2016
4:11 pm U.K.

mikefeat@sky.com

I'm looking for a working Sony 5630 Umatic, preferably in the North of England, if anyone has one for sale. Thanks

K Lambert
Friday 3rd June 2016
11:55 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Frandid:

Can I be the first to congratulate you on achieving this.

We've all been there and I too would agree about those not knowing much about these things or working on them should leave alone. You persevered and were determined with a little assistance and achieved your aim. Some sadly are not so lucky.

It is difficult trying to guide someone with these and the hall effect sensor is a very complex and fiddly area to work on.

Different when you've done a few as it's more straightforward then. You know the easier way and also pitfalls too.

As for your other issue. It des seems like over sensitivity to the loading mechanism switch. Have you tried the one that sensors when a tape is down and inside?

I always clean them all, especially if they are showing signs of being dirty or the machine well used.

Also the one that you push to make the LS go inside it could be not quite aligned with the front panel or even benefit from some isopropyl alcohol indie this. The F30 suffers too there, with the recording function being activated when pressing play. Those front circuit boards are a bit flimsy/flexible on that model.

Clean them. See what happens.

......Kev

Frandid
Thursday 2nd June 2016
11:25 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Haahaaah.... Hall effect sensor successfully replaced and head drum correctly reassembled :-):-):-) Picture and tape transport are OK, as they were before. But honestly I think it is one of the more difficult repairs an amateur can do on the SL-HF950 and I would not advise anyone who barely knows what is a soldering iron or a multimeter to do this... ! Thanks for your help Kevin.

The last little problem I have with this VCR is the linear skate sometimes suddenly loading when a tiny pressure is made on it, so that when a cassette is inserted often the LS system loads while the tape hardly touches it and is not yet inserted. The issue doesn't come from the open close micro switch because I have replaced it and it's the same. I noticed this problem when I purchased the VCR but I think it's getting more recurrent. I made some tests : Sometimes when the LS is ejected I can press very hard on it and it NEVER loads, but more often it loads when I make a little pressure, and sometimes only a VERY TINY pressure on it. This is not normal, it should not load. I tried to search for switches near the side springs of the linear skate but didn't find anything. I hope somebody knows the solution. Regards.

K lambert
Wednesday 1st June 2016
4:58 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Also there is usually a metal black plastic covered bendable arm that's used to hold the wires away from the loading area near the stationary head on the right. If it's pushed down that too will cause it not too move.

....Kev

K lambert
Wednesday 1st June 2016
4:56 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Frandid:

Definetely, don't PULL HARD on anything if it doesn't seem to want to move.

There is I believe a small connector on the top head drum board that will need unplugging.

There are two or three wires that will need unplugging too that connect to the head drum board.

To allow you more movement ,as you have stated.

........Kev

Frandid
Wednesday 1st June 2016
4:03 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Kevin I've just pulled out the magnet and the 3 screws on springs but it's still impossible to raise the head drum more than 2 or 3 millimeters. I made all the slack possible with the wires and I should normally be able to raise the HD at least 2 or 3 centimeters minimum according to wires slack. It seems that something is retaining the HD around the fixed full erase head corner. Is there a special screw or something ? I didn't have this problem on the C9. Also there is a 6 wire connector on top of head drum which might be embarassing and I am not sure it's a standard connector or if it has to be unsoldered. I tried to pull it but it did not move. Anyway I don't think this connector and the bottom wires are reponsible for the fact that I cannot raise the HD for more than 2 or 3 millimeters.I checked if the guide near the full erase head was touching the HD but no. I also removed all the wires clips that could be embarrassing. If I pull with more strenght I am afraid to break something... I can see 3 little semi-circular parts on the white plastic rail around the HD forming 3 little fragile plastic springs against the head drum... Everything seems more complicated on the HF950 than on the C9. .. Help again ! Regards.

Frandid
Wednesday 1st June 2016
1:28 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Thanks again Kevin. Actually that's what I thought but was afraid to damage the motor coils inside. I will try this evening.

PS : Thor, did you try to touch the beta/superbeta/betapro switch? When I received my SL-HF 950ES a few weeks ago sometimes black strikes appeared on the picture and the color was flickering, I understood it came from this switch. I put some contact spray (KF-F2)in this switch (and all other switches, but NOT micro switches) then the trouble completely disappeared. I also had to replace the main micro contact Play/FF/REW/Stop/Eject switches because they were much to hard to operate and it could not be improved with isopropyl alcohol.(The rest of the micro switches could be improved with alcohol, probably because they were less used. It seems that the former owner of my HF950ES did use much more the panel controls than the remote surprisingly, because the remote responds as if it was new).

But if you have tried checking the swithches without success it is probable that Kevin is right (he is often right !) concerning capacitors and other electronical components. The HF950 service manual is easy to find on the internet but unless you are a pro it will probably be of a limited help. If you don't find the solution to your problem I suggest purchasing a "junk 950 " on Ebay, once or twice a year you can find one at a very low price.If you are lucky you just will have to replace the video board.

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