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Chat Page News
Thursday 27th April 2017

Please bookmark http://chat.palsite.com/chat_page.py as the new URL.

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jeffreydavis
Thursday 15th September 2016
3:33 pm U.K.

jmo1963@cx.net

imlookingforaremoteforansl-10betamax-listedasrm85-ithasacordthatplugsinto-theunitpleaseontactmye-mail@jmo1963@cox.netifyoucanlocate-1forafairprice

jeffreydavis
Thursday 15th September 2016
3:29 pm U.K.

jmo1963@cx.net

lookingforarm85remoteforbetamaxsl-10

Matt
Monday 12th September 2016
2:54 pm U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Yes Noel, the multimeter in Ohm mode indicated 0 Ohm.

Thanks.

Matt

Noel Higgins
Monday 12th September 2016
2:16 pm U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Matt, OK yes meant IC605.

Strange for the coils to go. Might be a corrosion issue. I see that happening with bias transformers.

cheers Noel

Matt
Monday 12th September 2016
1:07 pm U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Thanks Noel,

In the connector CN610 and on the pin 14 of IC608

i have all correct rail voltage . The same for IC605.

I have checked the coil, and are both open.

I hope to find a another set of end coil.

Thanks for you patience Noel.

Noel Higgins
Monday 12th September 2016
8:11 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Matt,

I have checked the service manual and I think the inputs to IC608 are coils that sense the metal tape end strips. So you should be able to check their resistance with an ohm meter.

Failure in both directions points to an IC or board supply fault.

I don't know where you got the idea that 620kHz should be present on those inputs because that is the sort of frequency used at high voltage levels to do tape erase and at lower levels to bias the audio heads on record. I have not seen this fault but both sensors are unlikely to have failed and even the IC should be reasonably robust.

Check IC pin DC voltages are as expected from circuit diagram SS11 1/3 on page 112 of the service manual and that 9V supply is present on CB610 pin 3 and on IC608 check that pin 4 has 5V supply.

I notice a fuse F602 at connector CN628, Pin 1 12V supply that goes to CN 610 pin 7 so check 12V is both sides of that as well.

good luck.

regards Noel (Betaheaven.com) Australia.

Matt
Sunday 11th September 2016
1:19 pm U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

In simply, the cassette at the top, and the end, not stop it the reel motor.

I have simluated the insert a cassette, and with the metal sheet,

in rew, ff, and play, the sensor coil is not working, and don't stop the VTR.

Matt
Sunday 11th September 2016
12:55 pm U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Hi at all,

Finally i have replace the reel assy, on my SL-C9ES, now working

perfectly without any stop. Now i have a another problem,

a non working take-up and supply end sensor coil.

On service manual, i have try to measure, the sinewave with a frequency

of 610 kHz on pin 3 and 7 of IC 605, and this sinewave is missing on both

pin of IC and sensor.

At the end, i have both end coil failed?

Or a failed End Sensor IC?

Thanks.

Matt

Frandid
Friday 9th September 2016
4:22 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Ok. As it is less expensive than the fuses I've ordered one (less than 2, free shipment !). If it doesn't work I 'll try to find a 2nd hand original motor... !

Noel Higgins
Friday 9th September 2016
1:15 am U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Frandid,

I don't try to mix and match motors. So many variables.

Good luck.

regards Noel

Frandid
Wednesday 7th September 2016
7:32 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

PS : In fact this motor seems a little bigger and larger (by 3mm) but should fit.

Frandid
Wednesday 7th September 2016
6:52 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

I am ordering the N25 fuse from HK on Ebay, thanks Noel. Concerning the motor, I found on Ebay exactly the same motor as the one I dismantled from a 2001 junk Samsung, which didn't work correctly in the HF950, I still don't understand why.

But I also found a motor which looks a little closer to the original SL-HF950ES motors, yet still not exactly the same : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/12V-DC-6000RPM-Torque-Magnetic-Mini-Electric-Motor-for-T1Y-Toys-Cars-T1-/252511558795?hash=item3acadc9c8b:g:QH8AAOSw-itXv7k- It's intended for toys and drones but it is the closest looking to the SL-HF950ES. .. I think I am gonna try this one, It would be nice if it could work correctly in the 1985 Sony SL-HF950, what do you think Noel ??

(Do you know that you name means Xmas in french ? ;-)! ).

Frandid
Wednesday 7th September 2016
1:08 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Thanks very much for all your information Noel Higgins, I'l see all this in the evening. I will keep you informed. Best regards from France.

Noel Higgins
Wednesday 7th September 2016
9:16 am U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Frandid,

Yes sorry IC108 is right. Yes 12.2V on supply side of PS001 confirms its blown.

Don't use any alternatives, the part is still available.

I obtained 10 of those ICP N25 parts from UK through eBay

The email contact for that person in UK was paul@jpgelectronics.com

I did a quick search and found some at https://console5.com/store/icp-n25-rohm-in-circuit-protector.html

And also at https://www.utsource.net/ICP-N25.html?campaignid=192470974&adgroupid=10565026654&targetid=kwd-7955336163&matchtype=p&gclid=COiy4PTz_M4CFQN8vQodL10EZA

but I don't know the postage costs/minimum orders etc.

As far as motors go I have spares here but postage is prohibitive.

There must be someone closer in EU or UK with a spares machine.

Good luck.

cheers Noel

Frandid
Tuesday 6th September 2016
11:21 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Noel, without unscrewing nor opening SS50 I measured 12,2 v at resistor R143, Am I right to be optimistic ? This fuse doesn't seem to be available anymore nor anything like it or any electronic fuse, I only found this : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/100pcs-Raychem-1-25A-Polyswitch-Resettable-Fuse-SMD125-2-/262605029481?hash=item3d247ac069:g:Z04AAOSwdzVXjLaU or this http://www.ebay.fr/itm/5-X-POLYSWITCH-SMD-1-1A-Part-SMD100F-/351183678209?hash=item51c42dab01:g:vFcAAOxyCepSa8HT Do you think it could replace the original fuse ? If yes, is it possible in the meantime, before I receive it, to short circuit the dead fuse and continue testing motors, this time taking care of not making any new short on the motors wires ? Regards.

nawafalhindi
Tuesday 6th September 2016
4:02 pm U.K.

nawafalhindi500@gmail.com

thank you guys

Frandid
Tuesday 6th September 2016
6:57 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Nawafalhindi, this is what you need : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/BNC-Male-Plug-to-RCA-Female-Jack-Coax-Cable-CCTV-Video-Adapter-Connector-HGUK-/201644621500?var=&hash=item2ef2f4bebc:m:m5AYj3l3vURQJUhKYYo6vUQ

Noel Higgins, thanks very much for your help, I'll check this fuse tonight (so far I didn't know it was a fuse !) but I seem to remember having measured 0v on both sides of this component. I hope I am wrong. I have ordered a couple of LB 1640 (=IC108=IC109) from china on ebay for a ridiculous price that I should receive in a few days... or later ! When you wrote IC801 (end of your post) I suppose you also meant IC108... ?

I gave the link of the SL-HF950 (and SL-C9 previously) service manuals several times in this chat page but the fact that the model references automatically generate a link to the mentioned VCRs inside this site break the links and sometimes it is hard to access to the pages...

In case the problem only comes from the fuse, is it possible to find a compatible one on the internet/ebay ?

Concerning the LS motor failure, any idea of how to repair it or how to find an identical new one ? It seems that it is exactly the same as the loading motor if I am not mistaking and if one fails.... you know what I mean...

I still don't understand why the samsumg motor didn't work correctly, they look so smilar.

I suppose other people didn't answer here in Europe because they are still on summer holiday, it is a fact that we have an outstandingly good and long summer here in the south of France, with still a nice weather and a temperature of 37c in the afternoon.

7 days ago I had the chance to assist (and shoot !) not far from my home a concert from my favourite group, THE british rock band of my childhood (I think they're also known in Australia and the rest of the world) and it was still very hot at 11pm outside, more than 30c I think, and the band was hot too... : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mE4E9rtQFX8 All my youth !

Noel Higgins
Monday 5th September 2016
1:46 pm U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Yes you need the BNC to RCA adaptor then it will work.

On the audio side best to get an RCA to two RCA adaptor because most equipment has left right channel audio and that machine is only mono.

cheers Noel

nawafalhindi
Monday 5th September 2016
11:10 am U.K.

nawafalhindi500@gmail.com

Betamax and Noel Higgins,

so you recommend me to buy the BNC or RCA connectors ? and i forgot to tell you that i have a wire for the audio and the audio is working i just need the video. if i buy the BNC i just plug it in the video out of the sl-800me then i plug the av wire (the yellow wire) in the BNC ?

regards

nawaf

Noel Higgins
Monday 5th September 2016
6:49 am U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Nawaf,

It is better to use the direct AV connections to connect to a TV since most countries have now moved to digital TV tuners.

regards Noel

Noel Higgins
Monday 5th September 2016
6:48 am U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Frandid,

I am surprised that no one else has replied by now. I guess there are not many people with HF950 service manuals.

The drive IC108 (pin 9) 12.2V power is supplied via an electronic fuse labelled PS101.

I check a machine and the part number is N25 which is the 1000mA version.

You may still have damaged IC801 but that is unlikely as PS001 would be very fast acting.

You can check it to see if PS001 is blown using an ohm meter with the machine turned off or otherwise turn your machine on and check if the voltage 12.2 appears on the other side but not the IC108 side of PS001.

You can see the information on SS-50 circuit diagram 4.5.

regards Noel (Betaheaven.com) Australia

Fivos Sakellis
Monday 5th September 2016
3:18 am U.K.

fivossakellis@hotmail.com

nawafalhindi

You have to tune the TV channel to the UHF channel of the Betamaxe's RF output (usually CH 36) or use a BNC to RCA adaptor for direct video output.

betamax
Sunday 4th September 2016
11:31 pm U.K.

a9a9a1001@hotmail.com

nawafalhindi

use BNC/RCA Connector

https://www.lorextechnology.com/images/articles/support/RAC%20to%20BNC.png

https://www.lorextechnology.com/images/articles/support/BNCA.png

nawafalhindi
Sunday 4th September 2016
8:27 pm U.K.

nawafalhindi500@gmail.com

hello...

i have a betamax sl-800ME, i want to connect it to the TV but i couldn't i tried to connect it using the 75-ohm coaxial cable but unfortunately nothing happened. i tried to find a solution in the internet but i didn't find anything, i went to most of the stores in my city (Riyadh) and i didn't find anything. i hope someone can help me so my mom can see her childhood videos.

thank you

Nawaf

Frandid
Sunday 21st August 2016
9:48 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

...In fact I have lost the 12.2 v on LB 1640 and on Q112 DTC144ES, so I am not sure it comes from IC 108. Which component is making the 12.2 v ? Any idea of which component I have burnt when I made a short circuit on the 2 wires of the LS motor ?? This is on page 82 of the Sony SL-HF950ES service manual (http://freeservicemanuals.info/en/servicemanuals/viewmanual/Sony/SLHF950ES/SLHF950E/). Anyone here to give me a clue ?

Frandid
Wednesday 17th August 2016
6:01 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

...While I was testing and exchanging motors suddenly the motor didn't rotate at all anymore, I made a short as both wires are soldered very closely... :-( What is the component I accidentally killed ? IC108 / LB1640 ?? No other possibility ? Thanks.

Frandid
Tuesday 16th August 2016
10:47 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

.... I have completely opened the LS motor, I can see why the inner part (coils + central magnets around the axis)touches the outside magnets, but cannot understand how I can prevent this : On the side close to the little printed circuit board there is nothing to keep the axis in the center position, only the two little brushes and I doubt they are strong enough to do this. I made a little experiment : I have a spare motor from a junk Samsung VHS which is 99% identical, I swapped it : It works but not completely ; The LS never completely loads with this motor, although it completely ejects, but slower than normal yet they are both 12 volts and very similar... :-(

So now I intend to open the Samsung motor and see why the inner part doesn't touch the outer part as in my defective Sony motor, and see if I can take parts from the Samsung motor to repair the Sony motor... But I am not very confident as a close look to the outside shows a quite different construction, the Sony being made in 1985 and the Samsung in 2001... I am afraid of the inside to be very different. I think I'll open it tomorrow. Just let me know if someone knows what should prevent the center part to touch the outer part on the side of the axis where are fitted the 2 brushes in the Sony LS motor. (On the opposite side -entry of the axis into the motor- there is a little black plastic around the axis which allows the axis to bend in all directions, I don't know why but it seems normal, yet this allows the center magnets to touch the outer magnets and cause this horrible noise. On the Samsung motor this part is made of metal, so it probably doesn't bend and could maintain the axis firmly in a straight position up to the brushes side I think...

Frandid
Monday 15th August 2016
11:52 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Hi.My SL-HF950ES linear skate loading motor has started to make an horrible loud noise since yesterday. Strangely enough it still works. I am trying to disassemble it, do you think it can be repaired ? I will unsolder the 2 points in a minute since it seems the only solution to open it and see what goes wrong inside. It sounds like if the moving part inside was touching the metal around, I can feel this when making it turn with my hand. I havent seen this problem anywhere on the net. I hope I am not wrong unsoldering the 2 points, but it seems the only solution to see what happens.

Noel Higgins
Sunday 14th August 2016
11:49 am U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Roderick,

If you have not managed to fix that SLC9 forward tension problem yet get in contact with me through betaheaven.com and I might be able to give you some tips

regards Noel

Frandid
Sunday 14th August 2016
3:54 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Chris I told you "It would be more secure and easier to resolder the BNC output I think " ;-)

K Lambert
Friday 12th August 2016
5:21 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Chris:

Well done my friend.

Only happy to help you get a successfull conclusion.

I did have those pin numbers somewhere.

I think it was on an old message on the V2000 page but alas those messages are lost now.

Oh well at least you have the signal back.

I would also say to other HF100 owners using those rear sockets....BE CAREFUL if leads are connected.

Thanks for the update Chris.

.....................Kevin

Chris Lawton
Friday 12th August 2016
2:15 pm U.K.

chris-lawton@talktalk.net

Hi Kevin,

Following your advice, I removed the underside panel and checked the video out solder connection to the printed circuit board. Just as you said, it was a dry, broken joint. I re soldered the joint, and hey presto - I now have video out of the BNC connector. In hind sight that really had to be the best solution to the problem. I did manage to buy a 240 degree 6 pin din plug from Maplin, but I would imagine that that trying to solder in such a confined space, with plastic that would probably melt before the solder ran would be a something of a nightmare. I still don't know about the pin outs, the only absolute certainty is that pin 3 (top dead centre) is the chassis / earth. Many thanks for your excellent advice, which gave me the courage to 'have a go'. I must say the build quality of the SL-HF 100 is quite amazing, a real pleasure to behold. Best regards, Chris.

K Lambert
Thursday 11th August 2016
12:05 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Chris:

I successfully made up a cable for one of those for another guy a while back (he got the connector from Maplin too) and it was pretty fiddly and I had to get some connectors for each wire so they hold onto the pins to be able to secure them each with solder.

I don't actually have the pin order that was given but it did work.

I would much rather remove the bottom cover on thevcr and one screw that holds on the metal plate that goes around those sockets and then lightly wiggle the Video output one and you will see where the solder has cracked around this.

It's not exactly 'stripping it down' but just removing two metal covers.

When you look at the soldered points for those socket's make sure other areas near there hav'nt gone the same. Check all of them. A magnifying glass and good strong light come in real handy there.

.......................Kevin

Chris Lawton
Wednesday 10th August 2016
9:29 am U.K.

chris-lawton@talktalk.net

Thank you Frandid and Kevin for your responses. I can get hold of a 240 degree 6 pin din plug from Maplin, and could make up a lead carrying the audio and composite video out. The trouble is I don't know the pin configuration for the wiring. I think I would be happier making up a suitable cable; i.e. 6 pin din plug to 2x phono (L+R) and BNC, rather than stripping the recorder and re-soldering the dry joint. But . . . if I don't get the information on pin outs, I guess I will have to be brave and start stripping my trusty SL-HF100UB and have a go at re-soldering the BNC connector on the output board.

K Lambert
Tuesday 9th August 2016
8:13 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Roderick:

If you look on this link http://www.palsite.com/slc9tech.html you will see a couple of things at the end which may help. Failing that look on the servo board for 'torque adjustment'.

..................Kevin

K Lambert
Tuesday 9th August 2016
8:11 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Chris

Frandid is correct in his comments as the unsoldering of the BNC sockets to the board is every common on the HF100. It either effects sound picture or both.

I would suspect down to having a lead connected and this in turn getting a hard whack as these sockets just stick through the metal chassis and have no stability/strength other than the soldered connection to the board.

The 6 pin DIN does do video and stereo sound but you need the special 6 pin connector which aren't easy to get now.

As a matter of fact I've just refurbed a HF100 that had a few dry joints around that back panel area. It was a weak design by Sony for that model. Most other models don't get that issue.

......Kevin

Frandid
Tuesday 9th August 2016
4:13 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Chris I am not sure that the din socket carries the video output. Actually I cannot find a good picture of the SL-HF100 rear view on the net. Check if it is written "video out". (I thought it was a camera input but never owned a HF100 ). You can see the din connectors diagrams here : http://www.labguysworld.com/Connectors.htm

It would be more secure and easier to resolder the BNC output I think.

Chris Lawton
Tuesday 9th August 2016
3:08 pm U.K.

chris-lawton@talktalk.net

Hi there,

I own a Betamax SL-HF 100UB. To copy important video to newer formats I always used the BNC connector for video output, but regret it has stopped working i.e. - no video output. Audio Phono jacks are still fine, as is the RF output. I was wondering how the six pin din socket might be used for AV out, but am not sure of the connections, and despite searching cannot find any information, other than it could have been compatible with Sony Televisions of that era. I would be very grateful if any one out there can provide advice please?

Roderick
Monday 8th August 2016
10:50 pm U.K.

nospam@palsite.com

Thanks Kev,

The heads are spinning, I get a couple of seconds of clear image before it shuts down.

Any hints on adjusting the forward tension?

Cheers, Roderick

K Lambert
Monday 8th August 2016
1:35 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Roderick:

Is the head drum spinning?

If it is then the forward tension setting needs adjusting as if it's incorrect it will also cause the deck to shut down.

As it's affecting FF and REWIND though I would suspect the hall sensor.

......Kev

Matt
Monday 8th August 2016
11:17 am U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Thanks Roderick.

Roderick
Monday 8th August 2016
5:27 am U.K.

nospam@chatpage.co.uk

Matt, just measured the loading belt:

Folded flat it is 60mm long. It is a 2mm square belt.

Hope that helps.

Roderick
Monday 8th August 2016
5:07 am U.K.

nospam@chatpage.co.uk

Hmm, a SL-C9 is playing up.

Loads the tape but will only wind, rewind or play for a few seconds before going into stop mode.

Both reel motors work, no slack tape, what could be causing this?

Matt
Sunday 7th August 2016
3:34 pm U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Hi at all.

Anyone know, the exact diameter, and section,

of the loading belt for the SL-C9ES?

Thanks

Matt

Andrew Middleton
Saturday 30th July 2016
6:59 pm U.K.

middleton.andrew.c@gmail.com

Sorry, wrong page.

Andrew Middleton
Saturday 30th July 2016
6:58 pm U.K.

middleton.andrew.c@gmail.com

Hi

Is there any Betacam expert in the London/Enfield area willing to test

3 x Sony UVW 1800P

and

1 x Sony PVW 6000P

They all power up, but I don't know anything much about them.

middleton.andrew.c@gmail.com

Happy to travel with decks for testing.

Thanks

Andrew

Noel Higgins
Sunday 24th July 2016
9:25 am U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Mark,

The bias oscillator transformers run at Ultrasonic rates and can fail due to mechanical vibration over time fracturing the leads or the leads being corroded where the coating has been cleaned off for soldering to the coil base pins.

Replacement requires good soldering skills with a temperature controlled iron, especially so if you are getting a secondhand unit from a spares machine for the repair. I suggest you use solder wick to clean away the solder and then you can see all pins are free before you exert force to remove the transformer. Also be careful to note which way around the coil pins go.

Yes - the erase transformer is problem is common fault on SLHF950s.

Cheers Noel (Betaheaven.com) Australia

Frandid
Thursday 21st July 2016
10:25 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Don't bring back luck to my HF950ES Kevin, it never had any erase bias trouble ;-)

K lambert
Friday 15th July 2016
8:25 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

...................Maybe even worth looking for dry joints to that component as it is intermittent. Possibly a cracked board.

...Kev

K lambert
Friday 15th July 2016
8:24 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Mark:

That is the only thing I know of that would cause that issue. Very common on the HF950.

You will need a good one from a spares Sony. I don't think they are available anymore new but I could be wrong.

Sometimes these obscure things crop up new on E-Bay.

Good luck.......................Kev

Mark
Friday 15th July 2016
11:27 am U.K.

mark.viv@hotmail.com

HI

I have a SL-C40 that works great except that the sound from the previous recording remains. This can be intermittent.

Am I correct in thinking that the erase bias is missing ? or do anyone know of a fault/cure for this problem.

Mark

Frandid
Thursday 14th July 2016
2:05 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

OK Matt, I'm glad you found the cause of the problem.

Matt
Wednesday 13th July 2016
5:34 pm U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Frandid,

i have find the problem,

is the BHF-1800C Reel assy faulty,

is completely worn out.

I need to replace it.

Thanks.

Matt

Nick phipps
Tuesday 12th July 2016
9:41 pm U.K.

Nhckphipps@gmail.com

Hi kev thanking you for outstanding service repair and to the minute details of the carried out repairs and service.my 950 you are repairing I would imagine will be the newest headed and serviced one in this country.many thanks beta king

DAVID BRUNNER
Tuesday 12th July 2016
6:56 pm U.K.

DAVIDBRUNNERPICAZARRI@YAHOO.ES

I saw betacam large tapes in oxide version

Exist some video that record large oxide tapes?

Matt
Tuesday 12th July 2016
1:28 pm U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Frandid,

a my error;

RV 001 It's for the Rew e FF Speed.

RV 002 It's for the back tension.

RV 001 is working, i have speed control, but

i don't have torque, in Rew / FF and playback.

The strange thing, the Reel Assy is very hot.

How i need to check?

Sorry again,

Matt

Matt
Tuesday 12th July 2016
1:12 pm U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Frandid,

I have resolved the problem of the drum, only dirt on the Drum Servo Section.

Now, i have try to adjust RV 002, the speed of the Rew and FFwd, and nothing happens!

I have no speed control. How i need to check?

Matt

K lambert
Tuesday 12th July 2016
12:14 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Matt:

Have you looked on the technical part of this site for the C9 there a re a few issues similar to what you have?

Here is one........

Stops in rewind or fast forwards after a few second. Drum is spinning This is the capacitors driving the take up and supply spool osc sensors. on board SS-11 replace cp0005, cp033 ten any electrolytics in the triangle between ic 003 and ic002 and ic610. lots of 1uf 50v and 10uf 50v.

Also................

Stops after few seconds, no tape take up. Check fuse F001 on the SS11 panel for open circuit.

.Kevin

Matt
Tuesday 12th July 2016
11:57 am U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Frandid,

I have resolved the problem of the drum, only dirt on the Drum Servo Section.

Now, i have try to adjust RV 002, the speed of the Rew and FFwd, and nothing happens!

I have no speed control. How i need to check?

Matt

Frandid
Tuesday 12th July 2016
6:12 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Sorry Matt, I was talking about the SL-C9 service manual of course ! This is the link : http://freeservicemanuals.info/en/servicemanuals/?search=SL-C9&brand=&sorttype=asc&sort=typea

And the HF950 s m is here : http://freeservicemanuals.info/en/servicemanuals/viewmanual/Sony/ SLHF950ES / SLHF950E /

Frandid
Tuesday 12th July 2016
6:08 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

LeoB : Yes, that's what the interference caused, horizontal black and white stripes on the picture. Other thing, have you tried to spray contact cleaner on the beta/superbeta/pro switch and all other 2 or 3 position switches dealing with picture ? I once had a problem of flickering color on my SL-HF950ES it disappeared after using contact cleaner. But the stripes came from interference with my TV.

Matt : Have you got the HF950 service manual ? (I gave the link in a previous post). If you are a pro you will be able to understand the schematic diagram and find the faulty components. Another solution is to buy a junk unit with a good SS11 board.

LeoB
Monday 11th July 2016
9:53 pm U.K.

leo.backman@maxinetti.fi

Thanks for the input Frandid,

I didn't explain it quite correctly. There are no false colors on a B/W image, but the original recorded colors are striped. It can be best seen with a red field test pattern. It seems this type of noise is called chrominance PM or phase modulation noise. My TBC reduces the striping but does not make it go away altogether.

Cheers,

Tableleg

Matt
Monday 11th July 2016
3:18 pm U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Frandid,

i have try to adjust the Rew and FFwd speed,

but nothing happens. I have resoldering some

cold dry joints on the Reel Section of the SS-11

Board. But when i power on, the Drum rotate very fast

and is not stopping. Now the priority is the Drum rotation.

How to check the Drum Control?

Thanks.

Frandid
Monday 11th July 2016
2:43 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Are you sure it's not an interference with a plasma or lcd TV ? (I had this problem a few months ago, with 2 of my 3 betas, search for my older posts here). You can check this by turning off your TV while making a recording on a HDD/DVD/BD/VHS recorder. When you have recorded some minutes from your betas just turn on your TV and watch if the lines have been recorded. If you don't have a non beta recorder you can also put the betas at least 4 meters away from the TV but you need long cables. Regards.

LeoB
Monday 11th July 2016
1:03 pm U.K.

leo.backman@maxinetti.fi

Hello people,

I have two Sony SL-HF950s and one SL-C30E. There are nasty horizontal color stripes flickering across the playback image in all of them. I'm using color bar pattern for testing the striping. It is there when I record and play back the tape on the same deck, and when I record the pattern with one VCR and play it back on another. The color striping is much worse than I've seen in any on my VHS decks. Is this a "Betamax" feature, or can something be done about it? Is anyone familiar with this? Too bad I can't post a here screenshot of a striped PB frame. But trust me, it is annoying.

Tableleg

K lambert
Sunday 10th July 2016
9:28 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Frandid:

I've just been offered a new set here in the UK at a bargain price so all good.

I really appreciate the replies though guys.

Many thanks..................Kev

Matt
Sunday 10th July 2016
6:13 pm U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Frandid.

Thanks, i try to adjust RV 001.

But the RV 002 is only for adjust the back tension.

The back tension is perfect, 46 g/cm.

The take-up torque is low, and rare time,

the VTR go in stop mode, for the low take-up torque.

Frandid
Sunday 10th July 2016
5:15 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

PS : I have found the english version : http://eshop.bg/eshop3/index.php?lang=lang-english.php

Frandid
Sunday 10th July 2016
5:12 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Kevin, someone also gave here in the past this link for the SL-HF950 head disk : http://eshop.bg/eshop3/index.php?url=/eshop3/phps/crosssearchmachine.php&get_vars=addord*AVH-935&get_keys=comefrom*ordercode. I remember he said that you can send them an email they will answer in english.

Frandid
Sunday 10th July 2016
4:51 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Ah, SL-C9 my favourite ! The forward/back tension should be 46 g-cm and can be fixed with RV002 on SS11 servo board. You can also adjust fast forward and rewind speed with RV001, maybe it is set to high, which could cause the system to stop. Also check the tension pick-up assembly. Regards.

Matt
Sunday 10th July 2016
11:09 am U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Hi at all.

I have find a SL-C9ES in partial working condition.

The principal problem, is the deck in Rew e FFwd

after few second go in stop. In playback is perfectly.

I have checked the voltage on the IC BX1047 and is correct.

I have discconect the coil sensor, take-up and supply

and the VTR go again in stop. In the schematic i have see a lots of

transistor. It's probabily a failure of this in the brake / tape end circuit?

And a another problem, the take-up reel have a very low torque, only 30 g/cm.

Any help for first, to check the end / brake circuit sensor?

Thanks.

Matt

K Lambert
Sunday 10th July 2016
10:04 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Frandid:

Thanks for that.I have used this company before for obscure vcr part's

Even though they are listed it's no guarantee they can still get them unless you order first.

Besides 311 for a set is way above what this guy is prepared to pay. Sadly.

Still there is hope :)

............Kev

Frandid
Saturday 9th July 2016
11:22 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Hi Kevin. You can find a new video head disk for the SL-HF950 here : http://www.donberg.ie/catalogue/video_spares/sony_video_recorder_spares/sovc_224.html . I hope money is not an issue for your customer ! Regards.

K Lambert
Saturday 9th July 2016
7:52 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Guys

Anyone know of where I can obtain a good used set or even NEW heads for a Sony SLHF950UB Superbeta.

I've been sent one to sort out and sadly someone got at it before me and has broken off three of the four heads?

Cheers.................Kev

Frandid
Saturday 9th July 2016
4:51 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Hi Thor. I am glad you too have been able to repair your SL-HF950 thanks to a YC board replacement. I now understand you had a color problem, you didn't really stated it I think. So now we know that a 950ES YC board works fine in a 950UB unit.(In fact I am not sure if your unit is a 950UB or a 950E ). I share your views upon the SL-HF950, it looks like a battle tank or a racing car :-) it's magic. It's a real pleasure to see the machine work, specially when the cassette is outside ! The picture is great in superbeta pro mode but my beta collection is made of standard beta tapes so when I digitalise a tape I am using my SL-C9 F which has a clearly superior picture. From what I read on the net it is not only the case for SECAM but seems also true for PAL playback, yet the difference may not be as big, due to the system itself. If you also have standard PAL cassettes it would be interesting for you to buy an SL-C9 UB /E/ES to compare both. If you only have superbeta pro cassettes then it isn't of any use. Regards, Didier.

THOR
Saturday 9th July 2016
2:50 am U.K.

2001ehf@simnet.is

Hi there, just to let the Betamax community know and answer my own post from a few weeks ago. Yes the YC40board from a PAL/SECAM SL-HF950ES can be used on a PAL only SL-HF950. Well now I have a fully functioning machine again with its color restored! Must say when I saw the old "battle tank" in action again in all its glory, I remembered why Betamax was one of my best experiences in life". Ive had D-VHS, Laserdisc, DVD, HD-DVD, Blu Ray etc and well I still do have them all, but the SL-HF950 has some sort of "magic" that you just don't understand until you used it. The loading mechanism, that firm but "purring" sound of the playback mechanism and finally the picture and sound of "tape perfection". Just Magic! Anyway before I disappear again into "Internet oblivion" I would like to thank Noel Higgins for his spare parts offer a few posts back as I Just saw that now while browsing the last few posts. Also thank you Lambert again for your interest in "my betamax case".

PS.: just for the record, even though you can use the YC40board from a PAL/SECAM SL-HF950ES on a PAL only SL-HF950 the vice versa is not a good option as the SECAM circuitry is not even connected on the PAL only board as stated before in these posts.! I guess the PAL signal would work but you would have a PAL only machine instead of a fully functioning SL-HF950ES PAL/SECAM machine? But then again if you only need PAL like me!!!

r b miller
Friday 8th July 2016
3:46 pm U.K.

rbmiller@cox.net

will give Beta SL HF450, manual and remote to a loving home...only ask to pay for shipping.

r b miller

Frandid
Friday 8th July 2016
3:06 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

PS : Andy I think the SL-C30 average value on Ebay is around 100 if it is in very good looking and working condition. Even the sought after top range SL-C9 and SL-HF950 don't sell easily above 200 . That's the price I paid for my SL-HF950 ES, it had little issues but is working, the video heads are OK, all the inside looks good and not a single little scratch on the front panel. I also paid 100 for a Pal Secam Ntsc SL-T50ME. From what I see the units between 250 and +850 stay on Ebay for months, some for years...

Frandid
Thursday 7th July 2016
2:22 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Hello Gabriel. In fact I did this exactly as I described last evening and it works, it is a success ! I tested several times and no more problem. I can now apply a light or strong pressure on the Linear Skate, it doesn't load anymore until I push the open / close button. :-) :-)

Gabriel
Thursday 7th July 2016
6:26 am U.K.

nospam@mymail.com

Frandid,

I am glad you finally found that mode switch. It is such a quite tricky part (also in VHS machines is a PITA). Your solution seems to be good, In fact I repaired some of those machines in the past with your procedure, with nice results. Take special care not to bending too much the contact blades because they are fragile and after glueing the piece, thoroughly clean the surfaces. I think that's all you need.

Please post if you succeed :-)

Btw I will try to keep an eye to this forum board but intermittently due to projects at work.

Frandid
Wednesday 6th July 2016
5:25 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Gabriel, I have just entirely disassembled the loading system of my HF950 and I found what could be the reason for its erratic behaviour : Inside the switch mode the 6 contact blade that works against the little printed circuit has 2 of its 3 plastic fixations broken and is moving so it is never in the same position. Tell me if what I intend to do is a good solution : I will first stick it with superglue in the right position, then put some epoxy on the 3 plastic fixations to consolidate the repair. What d'you think about it ? Regards.

Andy
Tuesday 5th July 2016
11:26 pm U.K.

benham3160@gmail.com

Cheers again Kev,

Yes it was only a drop, I work with a lot of plastic geared mechanical machines for a living so I know how irritating it is, I've been very conservative. Just want to grab a video from somewhere now and get it moved on, I'm having to borrow TV to test it so that shows you how in to this stuff I am! The picture circuit stuff I'm not so phased by as I've got an electronics bench set up with my 'scopes and meter so that side of it I'm a bit (just a bit!) more confident with. Irritating fault is that the 'lug' is broken on the tape door so the lower portion flaps about, I'll try and find a way to fix that tomorrow. I've got a huge stock of caps and components on hand so if anything misbehaves in testing hopefully I can resolve it. The PSU is all I can test at the moment and that's strong, infact the caps' look in rude health for a nearly forty-year old machine.

I was more worried about the mechanics of it, now understanding how the pendulum works it's much easier to comprehend once you've physically hand it apart on the bench to see what's-what!

Any ideas how much a working and 'overhauled' SL-S30UB is worth? Just before I stick it on the dreaded 'bay?

Thanks, as ever!

Andy

K Lambert
Tuesday 5th July 2016
7:51 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Andy:

My, my I do seem to get about :)

Whenever you add oil to any bearing on these fragile items it's only a DROP .That's it.

I've had some sent/or won smothered in oil all over the reel spools on the friction parts and that is really annoying.

The pendulum does benefit a lot with the oil on the shaft as does the motor flywheel magnet base too.

Be very careful cleaning those video heads though. I've seen a few damaged by owners not appreciating their fragility.

If the head drum spins up there is nothing wrong with the hall effect sensor then.

Is the capstan motor turning OK and going in the appropriate direction?

As for the unlacing in FF and REW only the Sanyo models from their 1982 VTC 5000 and all their later models did that in Beta.

Also the industrial Sony also FForwards and REWInds away from the head set up too.

It keeps the tape flat like and audio cassette player.

The Sanyo's back tension arm pulls it out slightly to engage the tape end sensor.

......Kev

Andy
Tuesday 5th July 2016
2:04 pm U.K.

benham3160@gmail.com

Hi Kev,

Well I think I tracked down a post of yours *elsewhere* on the internet (seems you're a Suffolk man too), where I found a YouTube video of a guy stripping a transport down, which I've done, cleaned, lightly oiled (thankfully I found your helpful remark on the video about retaining the washers in order!!). The pendulum was full of erm.. .gunge and didn't move very freely at all (is this why the machine was abonded decades ago?) I've lightly oiled it as well as the capstan heads with some machine oil after wiping everything down gently with some propyl.

I haven't got a video irritatingly (and I can't find one locally) but if I fool it by holding down the microswitches to engage the loading mechanism and the one in the bottom of the transport it spools up and as far as I can test functions without a video cassette the pendulum swings freely and transfers drive to each capstan, I gently greased the loading mechanism gears and I'll give the heads a clean up in a bit as well as general cleaning around the tape transport.

The head spins up fine, pause releases the sound (?) head and stops drive to the capstands, FF/RW seem brisk but it obviously isn't under any load.

I'm guessing Beta machines didn't unthread the tape for fast-forward and rewind duty?

Thanks again mate,

Andy

K Lambert
Tuesday 5th July 2016
1:31 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Andy:

No problem, when you seen many you get to know their good points and shortcomings over time.

That pendulum sounds fine to me.There should be no belt or spring. The inertia of that reel motor moves it one way or the other.

Does the head disc spin when you press play,or are you unable to get a tape to go inside it?

.....Kev

Andy
Monday 4th July 2016
9:27 pm U.K.

benham3160@gmail.com

Hi Kev,

You are of course entirely correct, just the single orange belt which is perfectly strong and intact.

There is "something" that makes me think something was broken/damaged inside the machine though, between the two tape capstans (that drive the cassette) there is a 'centre' pendulum type arrangement which is a plastic gear that swings to contact one capstan or the other, should this have a spring or belt or similar as it's just flapping around at the moment, I'd say it's some sort of brake without any knowledge.

I have vague memories of touching it and something breaking when I opened it when I was about 13 to see what was inside it, but that could have been an old VHS deck.

r b miller
Monday 4th July 2016
6:32 pm U.K.

rbmiller@cox.net

I have a usable betamax that I would donate to a betaqphile...orange county ca...email me

Antony
Monday 4th July 2016
2:02 pm U.K.

heritage_productions@hotmail.com

Its been a while, glad to see you're all still here.

I have aquired a SL-F30 which when I plug in and insert a tape goes into a spin, im not really clued up but not a total novice either. However upon opening and touching nothing, a white clip has fallen out.

It is small with a half moon type grip underneath if that makes sense. I have some pictures if required.

The machine takes up the tape but at first just played without any other functions till I switched off at mains. Im working atm but was gonna spend a few hours this evening.

I had loads at one time, split ftom the wife and have gotten back into the mode again ;)

Nicholas phipps
Saturday 2nd July 2016
11:50 pm U.K.

Nhckphipps@gmail.com

Thanks kev pretty much exactly describes mine then lol

K Lambert
Saturday 2nd July 2016
1:13 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Phil:

My pleasure my friend.

Andy:

Are you sure you've got that model number right as the C30 doesn't have drive belt's under the deck.

It only has the orange toothed one for loading ejecting?

........Kev

K Lambert
Saturday 2nd July 2016
1:11 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Andy:

If it is the SLC30 UB then the ONLY belt it has is a toothed orange one for tape loading/unloading and cassette ejecting, and it's not underneath the deck (that would be a C6 ,C5, C7 or SL8000. )

You will probably have difficulty getting one new now. Not impossible but difficult. I have never actually known one to break, stretch a bit maybe but not break.

A spares Sony ( C20, 30,40 ,HF100 or F30 would also have this same belt.

Nichola:

The reason the SLHF950 is sought after and worth a high price (would need to be serviced, or near mint with all accessories to justify a really top notch price), is it was Sony's ONLY really top end high quality beta format consumer recorder available. They are fairly rare, especially in a fault free really well looked after state.

The capacitors in the PSU have a habit of going high ESR and if left powered up for long enough like this will damage a fusible resistor and one or two transistors. I have seen a few like this.

They also can suffer with failing LED VU level meter segments, hall sensor, worn reel drive bearing. Areas of the loading sled can give grief too.

They do offer a impressive performance in Super Beta PRO mode with the special tapes.

Also make sure the Hi-Fi heads are fine .if they aren't it's usually down to high use and the reel bearing and PSU components will need sorting too.

Hope this helps....................Kev

Nicholas phipps
Saturday 2nd July 2016
8:48 am U.K.

Nhckphipps@gmail.com

Not that I'm interested in selling just curious why they seem to be far more sort after,or for sale expensively

Nicholas phipps
Saturday 2nd July 2016
8:46 am U.K.

Nhckphipps@gmail.com

Hi guy's hope you're all well,not posted here for some time,just wondering what a realistic price for a sl hf950 and wondering why they seem to be popular and regularly very expensive on eBay many thanks

Andy
Saturday 2nd July 2016
8:37 am U.K.

benham3160@gmail.com

Also Kev, I've had the model number confirmed as SL-C30UB, it has the original box as well as manual and remote.

It's just this mystery 'belt' that's given up the ghost!

Can you get hold of factory/service manuals for these machines anywhere, I'm an electrical engineer so I'm quite happy to give all the components a check etc before sale.

Andy
Saturday 2nd July 2016
8:32 am U.K.

benham3160@gmail.com

Hi Kev,

That may be the belt that has broken, it's been a LONG time since I peered inside the machine (about ten years ago) and I'm only going on what I remember, my parents have found it again in an attic clear out and were going to throw it away but I've asked them to pass it to be, so I can sell it.

I know a "belt" had broken in it, that may be the one. Is there any way it can be replaced?

Thank you for your help,

Andy

K Lambert
Saturday 2nd July 2016
1:12 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Phil:

My pleasure my friend.

Andy:

Are you sure you've got that model number right as the C30 doesn't have drive belt's under the deck.

It only has the orange toothed one for loading ejecting?

........Kev

P McKeown
Friday 1st July 2016
2:10 pm U.K.

philip_mckeown@yahoo.co.uk

ITMA! A massive thanks through PALsite to the ever wonderful Kevin Lambert for bringing my Sanyo VTC5150 back to life with replacement heads, after I really thought it's time had come.

This man is whole-heartedly recommended to anyone else requiring Beta repairs.

Many thanks again, Kev!

Phil

Andy
Friday 1st July 2016
1:42 pm U.K.

benham3160@gmail.com

Hi,

I'm in the UK and am looking to get hold of a set of drivebelts for an otherwise mint (original box, instructions, remote etc) SL-C30 machine.

A belt under the tape transport has snapped with age (machine was hardly ever used and has been boxed since 1986) - can I still get hold of these?

Cheers,

Andy

Frandid
Friday 1st July 2016
1:42 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Thanks Gabriel. The first thing I did was to spray this whole area (without actually knowing there was a kind of switch inside) it didn't have any effect. So I will disassemble it. I hope it is not necessary to disassemble the LS... You mention 2 positions, I thought there should be 3 : Close, Open and Eject. There isn't any problem when the LS is closed or open, the tape works perfectly when the LS is inside or outside. When the VCR works with the cassette outside I can touch it, nothing happens. It is only in the Eject position that very often the LS reloads at the slightest touch of it, sometimes even without touching it. I will check this and hope you have found the cause for this strange behaviour of the LS.

Gabriel
Friday 1st July 2016
6:04 am U.K.

nospam@mymail.com

Frandid,

I have been looking the pages you stated and YES, that is the component I was pointing.

That's a very simple mode switch, with only two signals coming out of it (SK UP-1 IN & SK UP-2 IN). It's not specially complicated, compared to most VHS mode switches containing 3-4 or more signals.

Sometimes with contact cleaner is more than enough. You can even try spraying its surrounding before attempting to disassemble.

Good luck!

Gabriel

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