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Chat Page News
Wednesday 26th April 2017

Please bookmark http://chat.palsite.com/chat_page.py as the new URL.

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Noel Higgins
Monday 5th September 2016
6:49 am U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Nawaf,

It is better to use the direct AV connections to connect to a TV since most countries have now moved to digital TV tuners.

regards Noel

Noel Higgins
Monday 5th September 2016
6:48 am U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Frandid,

I am surprised that no one else has replied by now. I guess there are not many people with HF950 service manuals.

The drive IC108 (pin 9) 12.2V power is supplied via an electronic fuse labelled PS101.

I check a machine and the part number is N25 which is the 1000mA version.

You may still have damaged IC801 but that is unlikely as PS001 would be very fast acting.

You can check it to see if PS001 is blown using an ohm meter with the machine turned off or otherwise turn your machine on and check if the voltage 12.2 appears on the other side but not the IC108 side of PS001.

You can see the information on SS-50 circuit diagram 4.5.

regards Noel (Betaheaven.com) Australia

Fivos Sakellis
Monday 5th September 2016
3:18 am U.K.

fivossakellis@hotmail.com

nawafalhindi

You have to tune the TV channel to the UHF channel of the Betamaxe's RF output (usually CH 36) or use a BNC to RCA adaptor for direct video output.

betamax
Sunday 4th September 2016
11:31 pm U.K.

a9a9a1001@hotmail.com

nawafalhindi

use BNC/RCA Connector

https://www.lorextechnology.com/images/articles/support/RAC%20to%20BNC.png

https://www.lorextechnology.com/images/articles/support/BNCA.png

nawafalhindi
Sunday 4th September 2016
8:27 pm U.K.

nawafalhindi500@gmail.com

hello...

i have a betamax sl-800ME, i want to connect it to the TV but i couldn't i tried to connect it using the 75-ohm coaxial cable but unfortunately nothing happened. i tried to find a solution in the internet but i didn't find anything, i went to most of the stores in my city (Riyadh) and i didn't find anything. i hope someone can help me so my mom can see her childhood videos.

thank you

Nawaf

Frandid
Sunday 21st August 2016
9:48 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

...In fact I have lost the 12.2 v on LB 1640 and on Q112 DTC144ES, so I am not sure it comes from IC 108. Which component is making the 12.2 v ? Any idea of which component I have burnt when I made a short circuit on the 2 wires of the LS motor ?? This is on page 82 of the Sony SL-HF950ES service manual (http://freeservicemanuals.info/en/servicemanuals/viewmanual/Sony/SLHF950ES/SLHF950E/). Anyone here to give me a clue ?

Frandid
Wednesday 17th August 2016
6:01 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

...While I was testing and exchanging motors suddenly the motor didn't rotate at all anymore, I made a short as both wires are soldered very closely... :-( What is the component I accidentally killed ? IC108 / LB1640 ?? No other possibility ? Thanks.

Frandid
Tuesday 16th August 2016
10:47 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

.... I have completely opened the LS motor, I can see why the inner part (coils + central magnets around the axis)touches the outside magnets, but cannot understand how I can prevent this : On the side close to the little printed circuit board there is nothing to keep the axis in the center position, only the two little brushes and I doubt they are strong enough to do this. I made a little experiment : I have a spare motor from a junk Samsung VHS which is 99% identical, I swapped it : It works but not completely ; The LS never completely loads with this motor, although it completely ejects, but slower than normal yet they are both 12 volts and very similar... :-(

So now I intend to open the Samsung motor and see why the inner part doesn't touch the outer part as in my defective Sony motor, and see if I can take parts from the Samsung motor to repair the Sony motor... But I am not very confident as a close look to the outside shows a quite different construction, the Sony being made in 1985 and the Samsung in 2001... I am afraid of the inside to be very different. I think I'll open it tomorrow. Just let me know if someone knows what should prevent the center part to touch the outer part on the side of the axis where are fitted the 2 brushes in the Sony LS motor. (On the opposite side -entry of the axis into the motor- there is a little black plastic around the axis which allows the axis to bend in all directions, I don't know why but it seems normal, yet this allows the center magnets to touch the outer magnets and cause this horrible noise. On the Samsung motor this part is made of metal, so it probably doesn't bend and could maintain the axis firmly in a straight position up to the brushes side I think...

Frandid
Monday 15th August 2016
11:52 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Hi.My SL-HF950ES linear skate loading motor has started to make an horrible loud noise since yesterday. Strangely enough it still works. I am trying to disassemble it, do you think it can be repaired ? I will unsolder the 2 points in a minute since it seems the only solution to open it and see what goes wrong inside. It sounds like if the moving part inside was touching the metal around, I can feel this when making it turn with my hand. I havent seen this problem anywhere on the net. I hope I am not wrong unsoldering the 2 points, but it seems the only solution to see what happens.

Noel Higgins
Sunday 14th August 2016
11:49 am U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Roderick,

If you have not managed to fix that SLC9 forward tension problem yet get in contact with me through betaheaven.com and I might be able to give you some tips

regards Noel

Frandid
Sunday 14th August 2016
3:54 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Chris I told you "It would be more secure and easier to resolder the BNC output I think " ;-)

K Lambert
Friday 12th August 2016
5:21 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Chris:

Well done my friend.

Only happy to help you get a successfull conclusion.

I did have those pin numbers somewhere.

I think it was on an old message on the V2000 page but alas those messages are lost now.

Oh well at least you have the signal back.

I would also say to other HF100 owners using those rear sockets....BE CAREFUL if leads are connected.

Thanks for the update Chris.

.....................Kevin

Chris Lawton
Friday 12th August 2016
2:15 pm U.K.

chris-lawton@talktalk.net

Hi Kevin,

Following your advice, I removed the underside panel and checked the video out solder connection to the printed circuit board. Just as you said, it was a dry, broken joint. I re soldered the joint, and hey presto - I now have video out of the BNC connector. In hind sight that really had to be the best solution to the problem. I did manage to buy a 240 degree 6 pin din plug from Maplin, but I would imagine that that trying to solder in such a confined space, with plastic that would probably melt before the solder ran would be a something of a nightmare. I still don't know about the pin outs, the only absolute certainty is that pin 3 (top dead centre) is the chassis / earth. Many thanks for your excellent advice, which gave me the courage to 'have a go'. I must say the build quality of the SL-HF 100 is quite amazing, a real pleasure to behold. Best regards, Chris.

K Lambert
Thursday 11th August 2016
12:05 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Chris:

I successfully made up a cable for one of those for another guy a while back (he got the connector from Maplin too) and it was pretty fiddly and I had to get some connectors for each wire so they hold onto the pins to be able to secure them each with solder.

I don't actually have the pin order that was given but it did work.

I would much rather remove the bottom cover on thevcr and one screw that holds on the metal plate that goes around those sockets and then lightly wiggle the Video output one and you will see where the solder has cracked around this.

It's not exactly 'stripping it down' but just removing two metal covers.

When you look at the soldered points for those socket's make sure other areas near there hav'nt gone the same. Check all of them. A magnifying glass and good strong light come in real handy there.

.......................Kevin

Chris Lawton
Wednesday 10th August 2016
9:29 am U.K.

chris-lawton@talktalk.net

Thank you Frandid and Kevin for your responses. I can get hold of a 240 degree 6 pin din plug from Maplin, and could make up a lead carrying the audio and composite video out. The trouble is I don't know the pin configuration for the wiring. I think I would be happier making up a suitable cable; i.e. 6 pin din plug to 2x phono (L+R) and BNC, rather than stripping the recorder and re-soldering the dry joint. But . . . if I don't get the information on pin outs, I guess I will have to be brave and start stripping my trusty SL-HF100UB and have a go at re-soldering the BNC connector on the output board.

K Lambert
Tuesday 9th August 2016
8:13 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Roderick:

If you look on this link http://www.palsite.com/slc9tech.html you will see a couple of things at the end which may help. Failing that look on the servo board for 'torque adjustment'.

..................Kevin

K Lambert
Tuesday 9th August 2016
8:11 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Chris

Frandid is correct in his comments as the unsoldering of the BNC sockets to the board is every common on the HF100. It either effects sound picture or both.

I would suspect down to having a lead connected and this in turn getting a hard whack as these sockets just stick through the metal chassis and have no stability/strength other than the soldered connection to the board.

The 6 pin DIN does do video and stereo sound but you need the special 6 pin connector which aren't easy to get now.

As a matter of fact I've just refurbed a HF100 that had a few dry joints around that back panel area. It was a weak design by Sony for that model. Most other models don't get that issue.

......Kevin

Frandid
Tuesday 9th August 2016
4:13 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Chris I am not sure that the din socket carries the video output. Actually I cannot find a good picture of the SL-HF100 rear view on the net. Check if it is written "video out". (I thought it was a camera input but never owned a HF100 ). You can see the din connectors diagrams here : http://www.labguysworld.com/Connectors.htm

It would be more secure and easier to resolder the BNC output I think.

Chris Lawton
Tuesday 9th August 2016
3:08 pm U.K.

chris-lawton@talktalk.net

Hi there,

I own a Betamax SL-HF 100UB. To copy important video to newer formats I always used the BNC connector for video output, but regret it has stopped working i.e. - no video output. Audio Phono jacks are still fine, as is the RF output. I was wondering how the six pin din socket might be used for AV out, but am not sure of the connections, and despite searching cannot find any information, other than it could have been compatible with Sony Televisions of that era. I would be very grateful if any one out there can provide advice please?

Roderick
Monday 8th August 2016
10:50 pm U.K.

nospam@palsite.com

Thanks Kev,

The heads are spinning, I get a couple of seconds of clear image before it shuts down.

Any hints on adjusting the forward tension?

Cheers, Roderick

K Lambert
Monday 8th August 2016
1:35 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Roderick:

Is the head drum spinning?

If it is then the forward tension setting needs adjusting as if it's incorrect it will also cause the deck to shut down.

As it's affecting FF and REWIND though I would suspect the hall sensor.

......Kev

Matt
Monday 8th August 2016
11:17 am U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Thanks Roderick.

Roderick
Monday 8th August 2016
5:27 am U.K.

nospam@chatpage.co.uk

Matt, just measured the loading belt:

Folded flat it is 60mm long. It is a 2mm square belt.

Hope that helps.

Roderick
Monday 8th August 2016
5:07 am U.K.

nospam@chatpage.co.uk

Hmm, a SL-C9 is playing up.

Loads the tape but will only wind, rewind or play for a few seconds before going into stop mode.

Both reel motors work, no slack tape, what could be causing this?

Matt
Sunday 7th August 2016
3:34 pm U.K.

spectrum46k@alice.it

Hi at all.

Anyone know, the exact diameter, and section,

of the loading belt for the SL-C9ES?

Thanks

Matt

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