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Chat Page News
Wednesday 26th April 2017

Please bookmark http://chat.palsite.com/chat_page.py as the new URL.

previous new post   refresh  next
Miguel
Friday 10th February 2017
9:13 am U.K.

miguelmaldonado77@gmail.com

Many thanks!!!!

I will try to change the capacitors.

K lambert
Thursday 9th February 2017
12:34 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Miguel:

Check the small blue Sanyo capacitors on the servo board (the board situated on it's side in the middle).

....Kevin

Miguel
Wednesday 8th February 2017
9:34 pm U.K.

miguelmaldonado77@gmail.com

Hello, I need help. I have a Betacord Sanyo VTR 5000 and it plays to double speed audio and video. Anyone knows What is happen?

K lambert
Wednesday 8th February 2017
8:55 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

David and NickMugford:

Your on the wrong page this page is for Betamax NOT Betacam.

Look to the top left and go to the correct page where you will find the a appropriate assistance.

Nick phipps
Wednesday 8th February 2017
4:20 pm U.K.

Nhckphipps@gmail.com

Hi guys wondering if ive been ripped off .but I bought a rmt 425 remote for my hf950. apparently you can change the ir code in the fb but I don't know what a fb is lol.it was a good price and is identical in every way to the rmt 232 remote made for hf950 mk2 but I have the mk1 ann help much appreciated.and thanks again kev for everything you have done on my hf950 you are the man that can.and very genuine repairer also

david Anthonyxd_anthony@yahoo.co.uk
Wednesday 8th February 2017
3:47 am U.K.

xd-anthony@yahoo.co.uk

Sony U-Matic VO-2860P On Play mode it starts, pinch roller makes contact runs a few seconds and cuts out. Help

nickmugford
Tuesday 7th February 2017
2:38 am U.K.

nicholas719@outlook.com

Hi,does anybody how the speed of betacam video recorders is determined as i wish to slow the transports down so as to get more recording time out of a cassette,i'm of the impression that the the machine chops the frequency of the mains supply as the uk/us

models have differing speeds,i'm not well up on digital circuity.

Wanted...power supply for sony DSR-DR1000ap video disc recorder or circuit,my recorders

power supply exploded like a minature atom bomb.Tks

K Lambert
Monday 6th February 2017
3:10 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Gab:

I too have one of these manual focus Betamovies and I found it handy to zoom in focus and then every time you zoom out it stays in focus. Unless you can see a clear edge to something to know whether it's really clearly focused it is tricky.

Boris:

Is the top of the head disc hard to move when the play light is illuminated ONLY, and then spin freely when the play light is off

....Kevin ?

NotTheMessiah
Sunday 5th February 2017
10:20 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

There are a few faults that might cause that listed here: http://www.palsite.com/slc9tech.html

Another thing to check is the clutch/pully for the take up. In some models it can seize up. Simple enough to dissasemble to clean and lubricate.

Boris
Sunday 5th February 2017
10:14 pm U.K.

blazarov@mac.com

Hello everyone

I have an old Sony SL-C9 with an issue, it stops playing after 2 or 3 seconds. Can anyone tell me the problem and how to fix it.

Thanks

Gab
Sunday 5th February 2017
12:38 pm U.K.

g.raciti@gmail.com

Hello all,

Just looking for some advice. I recently acquired a Sony BMC-100 (Australian version of the BMC-110 I believe).

Just wondering if anyone has any advice on getting images in focus and specifically any tricks for setting the correction 'ring'. I'm finding that despite getting great sharp focus through the viewfinder it rarely matches the actual recording. I understand it's a trial and error thing but when shooting outdoors it's very easy to knock the ring just a touch off its perfect position and come home with a bunch of blurry footage. So just wondering if anyone has any tips for resetting this on the go.

Cheers!

Keep beta alive! :D

NotTheMessiah
Saturday 4th February 2017
10:07 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

Hi Bjorn, thanks for the advice.

I've given eveything on ss-16 a tweak but it only helped so far. I did today find some caps that have been leaking both there and near dl-001 on yc-25. I recapped most of ss-16 and suspect ones near dl-001, which helped a little but I'm still seeing a lot of noise. I'm beginning to suspect delay line dl-001 might be failing but I don't have a spare. Tomorrow I'll finish recapping ss-16 and might do all of yc-25 too and report back.

I should really invest in a scope and learn how to do an alignment properly as I'm running blind a little here when tweaking things.

Bjorn
Saturday 4th February 2017
12:21 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

Hi NotTheMessiah it looks like you've covered everything I would have looked at. Especially SS-16 board (servo) which circuits did you make adjustments to? There are 4 - Drum Speed, Drum Phase, Capstan Speed, Capstan Phase. I would have suspected Drum speed and/or Drum phase. Check IC301 also IC304 although these seldom fail.

Bjorn
Saturday 4th February 2017
12:03 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

Hi Guys, I came back in to servicing Beta's this year after a shortish absence. I'm having a little trouble diagnosing a C9 which has left me baffled. So far on this machine, I've repaired the DC-DC CD09 module, and also repaired the front load assembly. I can't get any sound during playback, initialy was just noise but now no sound. Replaced D515 and checked IC520, IC521 which I'm not sure about so have replacements on order. Any ideas? I haven't touched a C9 since 2011 and worked on AM-1 since 2004 so a little rusty.

NotTheMessiah
Friday 3rd February 2017
8:58 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

Nick... cheeky reposting eh :p

NotTheMessiah
Friday 3rd February 2017
6:34 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

Hi guys,

So I've hit a bit of a wall with the SL-C30. I'm not having a lot of joy in cleaning up the picture and would appreciate some advice!

The picture has a great deal of noise, more than I would consider normal. See here: https://i.imgsafe.org/4c9de717a5.jpg

Areas most affected tend to be edges but the picture is in general quite noisy as can be seen. It almost looks like the odd and even fields aren't lining up correctly along with other noise. I'm not sure what could be causing this. In fact yesterday I noticed a moment when the odd and even fields were hugely out of sync, ie odd fields were lagging behind the even fields by around half the display width. This only lasted a few seconds though.

I've so far tried the following:

Everything has had a good clean and where applicable lubrication.

*Recapped the power supply

*Servo adjustment, this helped a little especially with stability of still images.

*New video heads - no difference

*Recapped input area of head amp - no difference

Would any resident experts or ex-technicians/service people have any tips?

Many thanks!

Simon

Nick phipps
Friday 3rd February 2017
5:11 pm U.K.

Nhckphipps@gmail.com

Hi guys wondering if ive been ripped off .but I bought a rmt 425 remote for my hf950. apparently you can change the ir code in the fb but I don't know what a fb is lol.it was a good price and is identical in every way to the rmt 232 remote made for hf950 mk2 but I have the mk1 ann help much appreciated.and thanks again kev for everything you have done on my hf950 you are the man that can.and very genuine repairer also

Martin
Thursday 2nd February 2017
2:44 pm U.K.

martin@palsite.com

I've made some minor tweaks to improve the layout on smartphones.

jcarron2
Wednesday 25th January 2017
11:04 pm U.K.

jcarron2@gmail.com

Thanks very much, thats awesome! Will check it out

NotTheMessiah
Wednesday 25th January 2017
8:59 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

Many gears listed here: http://www.smcelectronics.com/vcrmech.htm

Again, no idea if they stock beta parts but it could be worth a look all the same.

NotTheMessiah
Wednesday 25th January 2017
8:56 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

There was one site I found that was full of gears. I'll see if I can find it. I don't know if they were beta gears though, the only heads they had were vhs but might be worth a shot. There's also http://www.qservice.tv/catalog.htm#sony

They unfortunately didn't have my heads though. Sigh.

jcarron2
Wednesday 25th January 2017
8:51 pm U.K.

jcarron2@gmail.com

Oops somehow double posted.

I didnt, thanks for the idea, ill have a check there. Recaping is a good idea unless its one of those ceramic boards with capacitors on it.... Those suck.

Hopefully it pans out for you!

In my excitement to post I may have fudged the part number and im not sure if I need

3-684-163-01 or 3-684-111-01 , need to double check when I get home.. As my original post has two different numbers.... Sigh.

NotTheMessiah
Wednesday 25th January 2017
8:49 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

For anyone wondering... the problem with the picture is that it's excessively grainy for beta and suffers smearing to the right from high contrasting colours. It's not snowy, it just looks more like a bad VHS image than a betamax image. At first I thought it may have been out of alignment but I've given everything a tweak and nothing has a particularly strong impact on improving th3 quality. That said I don't have a scope and alignment tape, nor do I have the experience in performing an alignment so I just put everything back as it was. Took pictures first!

NotTheMessiah
Wednesday 25th January 2017
8:45 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

Another thing I'm going to try in order to clear up the picture is recap the all areas responsible for video processing. I might just recap the whole thing though. I already did the power supply, which was worth while as during the process I found some had been leaking so given the unit is 34 years old it stands to reason that the other electrolytics are probably not in the best condition.

NotTheMessiah
Wednesday 25th January 2017
8:29 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

Thanks for the offer, it's much appreciated though they appear to be a different model, I'm not sure how much success I would have. I've got a dsr-33r set on the way that I'm going to try my luck with but I'm not tremendously hopeful that they'll go but I'll give those a try first. I'm hoping that they'll be just a slight revision from the 35r and will work but time will tell. Should be here next week so will keep you posted and if it's a no fit then I'll possibly take you up on that offer.

I hope you have some success in finding a replacement gear. Have you tried http://www.ued.net/website/ ?

I've looked all over for new heads but the only places showing any stock appear not to be operating their businesses anymore.

jcarron2
Wednesday 25th January 2017
8:10 pm U.K.

jcarron2@gmail.com

On a side note, I mayy still have an old set of heads from a sony sl-5020, not sure if you'd be able to transplant one onto your drum?

jcarron2
Wednesday 25th January 2017
8:07 pm U.K.

jcarron2@gmail.com

It would seem so, or scared everyone off with my seemingly huge post! Didnt look _that_ big when I typed it into the little box....

NotTheMessiah
Wednesday 25th January 2017
7:54 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

@jcarron2... I think we killed the whole chat page!

jcarron2
Tuesday 24th January 2017
6:47 am U.K.

jcarron2@gmail.com

Hi Everyone

New here to the site, and have decided to get back into my Betamax stuff after many years. Skip down to the "currently section" to skip the back story. As a youngster I enjoyed repairing VCR's in general, and into the later years all electronic things. I decided to get back into my Betamax stuff, I have recently acquired a unknown condition, but surely broken, but very clean Sony HF600, which upon powering up the full VFD lit up. After some probing around inside the unit I decided to look in the power supply. After dismantling it, somewhat, and probing some capacitors I noticed they wern't near their rated voltage at all, i'm talking like the big filter caps on the bigger of the 3 boards in that module, where all the connectors mate to. I started to suspect the STK5441 module (god, how I hate these things), and looked up the specs, and found that, there was Vin, but NO S2 and S3 outputs (12 and 9v I think) unloaded they read 0v. Grounds check OK. I decided to ebay a replacement (cringe), upon RX it looked clean, but used. I replaced my stock one with that, and powered the power supply up. I had one of the two voltages, 9 or 12, but not both. I don't think I am going to find one of these STK modules that's going to work reliably. Anways, I decided to build my own 9 and 12v regulars from small 5amp (stk is only rated for 2.5a out) DC-DC adjustable regulators. I managed to find a service manual/schematic for this unit and dug around a bit more, making note of a few more things to test at this stage.. I wired up the DC-DC buck supplies, and the vcr came to life, sort of, until I tried to put a tape in.

Currently, when I try and put a tape in, the mechanism jams. Further dismantling of that shows what seems to be a known issue with this series.

Gear 3-684-111-01 has a broken tooth on it, and from digging around on the internet I found this site, with a discussion back in Nov 2016, giving me hope that since it was so recent there maybe a hope to find the gear.

Does anyone have a source (or spare they would sell), - for these still? The Amazon link is no good anymore

SONY 3-684-163-01 Gear, Driving Arm

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DFZVH8?redirect=true&ref_=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

As for the current status of the Betamax, it seems good, it powers up, rew, ff, play all seem to function as expected (haven't tried loading a cassette yet), just trip the switch to test. The capstan motor runs, as does pick up sprocket, and drum.

One odd thing I noted is that while the drum keeps a constant governed speed at play and pause, betascan forward and reverse, *if* I stop and then do fast rewind/ffd, the drum changed in speed about once per second, and is very obvious. More fun to come?

thanks,

Jonathan

NotTheMessiah
Monday 23rd January 2017
2:44 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

Hi everyone! First post here, was into Beta a while back and recently picked up an sl-c30 to get back into it. Anyway, I got it going but it appears that at some point in its life it took some head damage. One of the chips has a coil that's become all bent out of place and the picture isn't so great. The drum is pretty shiny too so looks like it's had a fair few hours! I'm just wondering if perhaps anyone here might have a set of heads (DSR-35R part no. A-6762-122-A) that they would be willing to part with at all? It could also use a new upper drum, but that's not quite as urgent.

chaz
Monday 23rd January 2017
11:50 am U.K.

hsf18@epix.net

I got it sorted out....the BVW-40 only accepts the small 30 minute tape.

Kei
Monday 23rd January 2017
5:22 am U.K.

biggreenlatino@gmail.com

Hi,

I have a question about the Beta Hi-Fi format in the PAL region. As I described earlier, I have recently bought the SL-800ME to digitize a PAL Beta Hi-Fi tape, but the deck turned out to support the standard Beta only, and it doesn't play Beta Hi-Fi tapes correctly. Are standard-Beta-only PAL models supposed to play Hi-Fi tapes without problem?

As you know, in the NTSC format, Hi-Fi audio signals are recorded between the chroma and luminance carriers, and this caused the infamous format incompatibility. When you play Hi-Fi tapes with standard Beta decks, the screen gets filled with moire fringes because they mistakenly read part of the audio signals as the luminance. So my SL-800ME suffers from this problem as well and doesn't play NTSC Hi-Fi tapes correctly.

In contrast, it does play the PAL Hi-Fi tape without moire fringes. It is probably because the Hi-Fi audio signals are recorded differently by the depth multiplexing method in the PAL format. However, the problem here is that white and black sparkles pop up around edges just like when you play Super Beta tapes without the Super Beta button turned on, but the cover and tape themselves say just "Beta Hi-Fi." Does this mean that the tape is actually recorded in Super Beta? Or do Beta Hi-Fi tapes play this way in the PAL format? From what I know, they never commercially sold Super Beta contents here in Japan, so I'm confused.

Thanks in advance.

chaz
Sunday 22nd January 2017
11:34 pm U.K.

hsf18@epix.net

hello all. very nice informative site you have here. hope it's ok to post ?

I've been into analog tape for 40 years. lately I'm buying old gear just to hear it.

the Betamax and Betacam format peaked my interest. I lucked into a Betamax w/stereo processor for only $20 USD.

my next experiment will be the early Betacam, the analog machines that use oxide tape, (not the SP and later format).

I know these early Betacam machines accept the standard small analog cassette with 30 minutes play time.

my question is, will a Betacam BVW-40 also accept a 12" large cassette ??

reason being I have found a small quantity of 12" tapes I'd like to try.

if anyone has one of these machines, could you post a reply ?

or, measure the depth and width of the tape well, and advise if it's configured to accept the large tape 90min.

thank all in advance, take care

c

K lambert
Sunday 22nd January 2017
11:13 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Theapprentice:

Let this be a lesson to anyone who decides to try to work on these classic machines and not take the necessary pre cautions. (I.E make sure the power is OFF before moving boards from there places!)

It sounds to me like the main IC's are damaged for the drum/logic and function/mode.

You will have to gain access to a repair/service manual for this model. Readily available for download on the net.

Get hold of a voltage meter and then when going through the various modes find out what said voltages should be and then trace back until they are correct. This should highlight where the issue is.

I would also check the fusible resistors too.

Seeing as this is a pretty complex machine it might take some time.

Unless you have access to another 950 whereby all the modes function correctly and you could swap the boards out (electric off) to highlight where said issues are stemming from then it's going to be the service manual route.

Good luck...............

theapprentice
Saturday 21st January 2017
7:19 pm U.K.

lilprentice@gmx.com

Hi everybody

I am exposing again the problem with my SL-HF 950 until someone gives me an idea.

So :

when trying to repair the display switch on the front panel which seemed to be malfunctioning - TV display was always on if not shut by remote- I tried to make the machine work when the FR20 board - front, right with buttons- was not screwed then suddenly play back started then ended and now it doesn't work anymore. Several flaws appeared.

In fact the soldered sides of right/down corner connectors -CN1 or CN2 or both- of board FR20 touched the metal case for a second and made a short circuit although no smoke nor flash appeared.

The result:

Head drum not rotating anymore, never, even when powering the VCR on.

when I hit play -same with remote and frt panel- the machine starts in fast forward and tape wraps around the pinch roller and the vcr stops.

when I hit FF or RW it works a few seconds then stops.

A second green led now lights permanently on the upper row -in hifi and auto display- a bit as if it was in tracking mode though it's not.

Some switches, edit super beta... do not light their led anymore

other switches -audio...- make the vu meter go to a maximum -green +red- for a second when switching them....

I gave a look and saw that CN1 from the front panel is connected to CN303 on the servo board I supppose some components are dead on this board too, and maybe on other boards... I watched the service manual but it's too complex for me to understand.

All this make me think that some components on SS50 and FR20 board are damaged, maybe not a lot, I hope, but I am not qualified at all to understand.

I think a good tech knowing well the HF950 should have ideas about which components to suspect on both SS50 servo board and FR20 board, knowing that a short circuit has been made for one second on back of connectors CN1 and/or CN2 of FR20 board, I still hope there are some here... !

Regards.

Kei
Saturday 21st January 2017
4:04 pm U.K.

biggreenlatino@gmail.com

I have bought an SL-800ME to digitize my PAL Beta tapes, but I'm bummed! I searched for information about the SL-800ME before the purchase and some websites said it's a Super Beta machine, but mine only plays the standard Beta. When it plays the Beta Hi-Fi tapes, the screen gets filled with terrible Moire fringes.

I thought that those websites were wrong and checked them out again, and it turned out that there are two different versions of the SL-800ME: the standard Beta version and another one with Super Beta. They were both sold under the same name but with different features... The only superficial difference is the logo on the cassette door. Those with just "Betamax" on it cannot handle Super Beta. How confusing they are!

There is a Russian video on YouTube featuring the Super Beta version of the SL-800ME: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9w8hyszmiuM

There seem to be no websites covering this piece of information. I think the administrator should update the model overview page.

K lambert
Saturday 21st January 2017
12:53 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Martin:

Thanks for the heads up.

At last a bit more security for us all here :)

Martin
Saturday 21st January 2017
12:26 pm U.K.

martin@palsite.com

Just to warn everybody, we are about to change the URL for the chatpages (possibly twice). The eventual aim is to ensure submissions will be secure. Just remember to update any bookmarks to those found on the site.

K Lambert
Thursday 19th January 2017
12:14 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

I could help you out but would involve sending the vcr's to me.

If you want to discuss this my e-mail is under my name (hold the cursor on this).

.........Kevin

Mitch
Thursday 19th January 2017
6:43 am U.K.

mitchellblanks1975@yahoo.com

I'm in Bristol. I also have a Slhf500 from the states that does everything except play the tape (even picture search both ways) 😢

Mitch
Tuesday 17th January 2017
5:19 am U.K.

mitchellblanks1975@yahoo.com

I'm in Bristol. I also have a Slhf500 from the states that does everything except play the tape (even picture search both ways) 😢

K Lambert
Tuesday 17th January 2017
1:44 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Mitch:

It sounds like a insertion switch or two are playing up.

There are two inside the cassette slot housing.

One at the bottom that a metal slider activates and one at the back of the head drum.

The easiest solution for you would be to remove the Dc -DC from the faulty machine and put it in the working one.

Where abouts are you located?

....Kevin

Mitch
Monday 16th January 2017
10:15 pm U.K.

mitchellblanks1975@yahoo.com

Hello all

I'm new to the forum and I have a C9 That Won't take a tape. I can manually load powered off and when powered on the tape ejects. Im aware of the potential dirty switch but I can't get to it (unless I'm mistaken as to its whereabouts) I do have another C9 working but no clock display. Typically the DC to DC is functioning in the broken machine!

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Mitch

theapprentice
Monday 16th January 2017
7:09 am U.K.

lilprentice@gmx.com

Hi everybody

I am exposing again the problem with my SL-HF 950 so If someone else has an idea, maybe Noel Higgins ? I read most of your older posts and you seem to be very clever about the Sony SL-HF950 . ..

So :

when trying to repair the display switch on the front panel which seemed to be malfunctioning - TV display was always on if not shut by remote- I tried to make the machine work when the FR20 board - front, right with buttons- was not screwed then suddenly play back started then ended and now it doesn't work anymore. Several flaws appeared.

In fact the soldered sides of right/down corner connectors -CN1 or CN2 or both- of board FR20 touched the metal case for a second and made a short circuit although no smoke nor flash appeared.

The result:

Head drum not rotating anymore, never, even when powering the VCR on.

when I hit play -same with remote and frt panel- the machine starts in fast forward and tape wraps around the pinch roller and the vcr stops.

when I hit FF or RW it works a few seconds then stops.

A second green led now lights permanently on the upper row -in hifi and auto display- a bit as if it was in tracking mode though it's not.

Some switches, edit super beta... do not light their led anymore

other switches -audio...- make the vu meter go to a maximum -green +red- for a second when switching them....

I gave a look and saw that CN1 from the front panel is connected to CN303 on the servo board I supppose some components are dead on this board too, and maybe on other boards... I watched the service manual but it's too complex for me to understand.

All this make me think that some components on SS50 and FR20 board are damaged, maybe not a lot, I hope, but I am not qualified at all to understand.

I think a good tech knowing well the HF950 should have ideas about which components to suspect on both SS50 servo board and FR20 board, knowing that a short circuit has been made for one second on back of connectors CN1 and/or CN2 of FR20 board, I still hope there are some here... !

Regards.

Gabriel
Saturday 14th January 2017
7:23 pm U.K.

Nospam@mymail.com

Dear betaphiles,

I am clearing some space at my basement in few weeks. Two or three SL-C6 mk1 will be thrown away. If interested in any particular assembly, just let me know on this forum board. I will be happy to send it for a very friendly price.

I recall having C7 / C5 and T7 in some corner, too.

Just ask, I'll be glad to send pieces and bits around Europe.

theapprentice
Friday 13th January 2017
4:38 pm U.K.

lilprentice@gmx.com

OK Kevin I got the mail, I understand...

I am exposing again the problem with my SL-HF 950 so If someone else has an idea, maybe Noel Higgins ? I read most of your older posts and you seem to be very clever about the Sony SL-HF950 . ..

So :

when trying to repair the display switch on the front panel which seemed to be malfunctioning - TV display was always on if not shut by remote- I tried to make the machine work when the FR20 board - front, right with buttons- was not screwed then suddenly play back started then ended and now it doesn't work anymore. Several flaws appeared.

In fact the soldered sides of right/down corner connectors -CN1 or CN2 or both- of board FR20 touched the metal case for a second and made a short circuit although no smoke nor flash appeared.

The result:

Head drum not rotating anymore, never, even when powering the VCR on.

when I hit play -same with remote and frt panel- the machine starts in fast forward and tape wraps around the pinch roller and the vcr stops.

when I hit FF or RW it works a few seconds then stops.

A second green led now lights permanently on the upper row -in hifi and auto display- a bit as if it was in tracking mode though it's not.

Some switches, edit super beta... do not light their led anymore

other switches -audio...- make the vu meter go to a maximum -green +red- for a second when switching them....

I gave a look and saw that CN1 from the front panel is connected to CN303 on the servo board I supppose some components are dead on this board too, and maybe on other boards... I watched the service manual but it's too complex for me to understand.

All this make me think that some components on SS50 and FR20 board are damaged, maybe not a lot, I hope, but I am not qualified at all to understand.

I think a good tech knowing well the HF950 should have ideas about which components to suspect on both SS50 servo board and FR20 board, knowing that a short circuit has been made for one second on back of connectors CN1 and/or CN2 of FR20 board, I still hope there are some here... !

Regards.

K lambert
Friday 13th January 2017
8:56 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Theapprentice:

I am but the situ has changed since we last communicated.

I have responded to your e-mail.

Sorry to disappoint.

Good luck with it. A successful solution always arises, trust me.

......Kev

theapprentice
Thursday 12th January 2017
6:21 pm U.K.

lilprentice@gmx.com

Hi Kevin Lambert

It seems you're not receiving my mails anymore ... ?

Rich
Thursday 12th January 2017
10:40 am U.K.

rsleeman@live.co.uk

Hi all. I've just been given a Panasonic plasma TV and I've noticed that my Sanyo vtc9300, Sony SLC6 and Pye 20vr23 (V2000) VCRs all have a sort of line ripping effect on the screen. I'm thinking it's the interference from the TV...Maybe the cooling fans at the rear of the TV?

Is there anything I can buy that would stop this from happening? Oddly enough my Sony SLC9 and Panasonic vhs/DVD combo unit are fine with no line ripping pictures. This obviously happens on tape playback.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Rich.

Frandid
Wednesday 11th January 2017
7:06 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Yes, I noticed that, I explained it in old posts that you can find here. The best thing to do is to put the beta VCRS at least 2,50 meters away from the TV. If you just need the beta to digitalise tapes you only have to put the TV off while copying tapes.

Rich
Wednesday 11th January 2017
1:29 pm U.K.

rsleeman@live.co.uk

Hi all. I've just been given a Panasonic plasma TV and I've noticed that my Sanyo vtc9300, Sony SLC6 and Pye 20vr23 (V2000) VCRs all have a sort of line ripping effect on the screen. I'm thinking it's the interference from the TV...Maybe the cooling fans at the rear of the TV?

Is there anything I can buy that would stop this from happening? Oddly enough my Sony SLC9 and Panasonic vhs/DVD combo unit are fine with no line ripping pictures. This obviously happens on tape playback.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Rich.

Noel Higgins
Friday 6th January 2017
11:14 pm U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Multidynamic,

Regarding the HiFi recording/tracking issue. To check the head wear use your original tape and see how much range you have each way from centre on the tracking control before the stereo drops out. Then try the same again on the recordings you make now. If the tracking "range" is still good and not just at one touchy point then you have a combination of head wear and tracking change. You will probably find that playback of the original recording is not really centred either. Best to judge the tracking centre point by the clearest picture quality.

The tracking always goes off because of electrolytic capacitors aging. It can be rest to centre position with an internal adjustment but you need a CRO and test tape to do that properly.

regards Noel (Betaheaven.com)

K Lambert
Friday 6th January 2017
7:10 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

That should've read......... 'it shouldn't be too much of an issue yet'.

K Lambert
Friday 6th January 2017
7:09 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Multidynamic:

It sounds like the |hi-F heads could be wearing low.

It's with recordings where they will show even more if they are wearing.

The reason those pre recorded ones aren't to fussy is because they were recorded on another Beta Hi-Fi machine with heads in good order.

You will find as you record on yours and those heads get even lower you will have a job getting the Hi-Fi sound even at the center.

If you are using this vcr to transfer your Hi-Fi tapes recorded elsewhere on another machine to digital it should be too much of an issue yet.

..Kevin

K Lambert
Friday 6th January 2017
7:05 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Fadhie:

You need to post that on the UMATIC page not Betamax!!!!!!!!!!!

Fadhle Matrook
Friday 6th January 2017
3:25 pm U.K.

imatrook@hotmail.com

HI.. 5/1/2017 I BUYING USEDSONY U-MATIC VO-2630 VCR FROM LOCAL MARKET. ITS TURN ON POWER AND EJECT WOORK ALL LIGHT WOORK HEAD IS CLEAN..BUT I HAV NOT CASSETTE TO TEST PICTUR..I WEL TRY BUY IT FROM EBAY.LOOL

multidinamic
Friday 6th January 2017
7:57 am U.K.

manologallardoalv@hotmail.com

Hi again I have sony sl-hf100 was referring to not recording in stereo, I have noticed that if you record with the tracking in the position in the center.

Well then once recorded, to be able to listen in stereo you have to put the tracking in the middle to the right and so if you can listen

On the original tapes it does not stop to move the tracking.

Could you help me

Thank you

multidinamic
Thursday 5th January 2017
7:24 am U.K.

manologallardoalv@hotmail.com

Hi, I have a sony sl-hf100 and the problem I have is that when I record in stereo

Does not play in stereo only plays in stereo the original tapes

The recordings only plays in mono, my question is? What can happen to him

Who does not record me in stereo?

Thank you

PAUL HILLAM
Thursday 5th January 2017
2:31 am U.K.

paul.hillam1@btinternet.com

Hi - I am looking for N1500 & N1700 video play head drums, complete Philips N1500/N1700 machines and any collections of tapes for these machines anyone has available

Thanks.

K Lambert
Wednesday 4th January 2017
5:57 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Rich

Yes and that's usually what happens. Those two pot's always need a slight tweak to get them perfect after the caps are renewed.

If it goes out of sync occasionally you hav'nt quite got it to where it should be.

It's all down to trial and error.

......Kev

Noel Higgins
Wednesday 4th January 2017
9:56 am U.K.

Noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

HI all and happy 2017.

I just noticed someone is supplying a replacement DC/DC new design for the SLC9.

See http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SONY-1-464-217-21-Betamax-SL-C9-display-DC-DC-convertor-CD-09-NEW-/222361627568?hash=item33c5c92bb0:g:-LQAAOSwiONYPnzq

cheers Noel

Rich
Wednesday 4th January 2017
8:00 am U.K.

rsleeman@live.co.uk

Kev...I adjusted vr1 and vr8 (I think that's the one) on the ss9 pcb and the colour came back. Still a bit wobbly picture and slow sound. I'm just waiting for the caps to arrive so I can replace them all on the capstan part of the pcb.

Regards

Rich.

K Lambert
Tuesday 3rd January 2017
6:40 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Rich:

Please do.....all the best.........................Kev

Rich
Sunday 1st January 2017
3:02 pm U.K.

rsleeman@live.co.uk

Kev..Thanks for that info. That'll be my next job after I install the new caps. I'll let you know the outcome.

Happy New Year.

Rich.

K lambert
Sunday 1st January 2017
11:36 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Rich:

There may be some new old stock ones lurking but I have had to measure the old ones and get some that way.

There are still many companies who make them but set's of them for each model may be an issue now.

Good luck...................Kev

P.S HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL..............

Rich
Thursday 29th December 2016
6:08 pm U.K.

rsleeman@live.co.uk

Noel.. Thanks for the info. Are belt kits available still for this model do you know?

Regards

Rich.

Noel Higgins
Thursday 29th December 2016
10:22 am U.K.

Noelmh@tpg.nospam.com.au

Rich,

Yes the capstan is belt driven. There are also other issues that can affect the capstan speed, the forward pickup gear drive can develop an issue and the tension varies.

cheers Noel

Rich
Wednesday 28th December 2016
9:47 pm U.K.

rsleeman@live.co.uk

Hi guys.

I've recently been given a Sony SL-C6 mk1 vcr. Just a quick question really. Is the capstan driven by a belt? The sound is wobbly and slightly slower than normal and picture is in black and white and jitters about in play but when I forward or reverse search the colour is there in the search modes. I've looked at the technical page for the model and have ordered some new electrolytic capacitors for the servo pcb.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Rich.

K lambert
Saturday 24th December 2016
7:43 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi

Then that's all I can do for you.

I also didn't realise you weren't in the UK as this does add those travel costs and risk to the equation.

Hope you get it sorted soon.

A note for overseas posters, it does help if we know where about's in the world you are.

.........Kevin

theapprentice
Friday 23rd December 2016
1:51 pm U.K.

lilprentice@gmx.com

OK Kevin I will contact your email -you can already write at mine it's the same as this chat page- but unfortunately I don't think I can afford buying the SS50 servo board + the front right board at the present time, + overseas shipment as I think you are in UK... And not sure at all they are the only damaged boards...

Is there here anybody else able to determin precisely what components are damaged ?

Again I say the ONLY mistake I made was that the soldered pins on back of CN1 or CN2 or both on bottom front rignt board touched the metal part of the machine for one second then.... all happened exactly as I wrote before :-( :-(

K Lambert
Friday 23rd December 2016
12:18 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Theapprentice:

Would be clutching at straws there my friend. I have no idea what damage may have been done or what components will be affected as I've never seen this happen before.

Your best bet would be to replace that board and have the whole thing properly overhauled for which I CAN help you out.

Theses machines are unique but so many are starting to suffer in various ways now.

Not to mention some have been horribly messed about with (and I'm not accusing you of that).

That is one of the perils of owning these classic vcr's and some owners who aren't aware of their complexity.

....Kevin

Fadhle Matrook
Friday 23rd December 2016
3:14 am U.K.

imatrook@hotmail.com

The u-matic VCR spears in (The Terminator) 1989 movie.. when sarah conor watch with the police his friend record.. also appear the u-matic pro camera by TV crew in same movie

theapprentice
Thursday 22nd December 2016
2:51 pm U.K.

lilprentice@gmx.com

Hi Kevin

The "display" switch but it's not important at the moment.I didn't have the time to touch it when the short circuit happened. As I wrote my hf950 is not working anymore.

The soldered sides of connectors CN1 or CN2 or both made a short circuit touching the metal housing. It's at the right, front board, bottom right in the corner. You can see both connectors when you take out the front panel.CN1 goes to CN303 on SS50 servo board, some transistors and ICs must have been damaged on this board too, which explains the machine working now with full of flaws exactly as I described in my previous post, no head drum rotation...

Do you have any idea of the transistors damaged on SS50 and on the rigtht front board ? If you know which components are damaged I hope they are available or you can sell them to me.

Thanx for your help.

K lambert
Thursday 22nd December 2016
1:57 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Theapprentice:

What switch are you referring too that you tried to repair.?

I could have a look at this for you and have a few spares for this model.

If you want to go down this route please contact me at my e-mail address located under my name.

Hope this helps........................Kevin

theapprentice
Wednesday 21st December 2016
7:17 pm U.K.

lilprentice@gmx.com

Hi

I think I ruined my sony slhf950 when tryin to repair the display switch on the front panel which seemed to be malfunctioning - TV display was always on if not shut by remote- I tried make the machine work when the board - front, right with buttons- was not fixed then suddenly play back started then ended and now it doesn't work anymore. Several flaws appeared.

I think that the right/down corner connectors -CN1 or CN, or both- touched the metal housing for a second and made a short circuit althoug no smoke no flash.

Now this is what happens :

Head drum not turning anymore, never.

when I hit play -same on remote and frt panel- the machine starts in fast forward and tape wraps around the pinch roller and the vtr stops.

when I hit FF or RW it works a few seconds then stops.

A second green led now lights permanently on the upper row -in hifi and auto display- a bit as if it was in tracking mode though it's not.

Some switches, edit super beta... do not light their led anymore

other switches -audio...- make the vu meter go to a maximum -green +red- for a second when switching them....

I just gave a look and saw that CN1 from the front panel is connected to CN303 on the servo board I supppose some components are dead on this board too, and maybe other boards... I looked at the service manual but it's too complex for me to understand.

Will I have to throw my machine away for 1 second of inattention ?

Who would be able to help me tryin repair it ? It would be so nice if someone could help me...

Thanx in advance.

Ian Simpson
Wednesday 21st December 2016
2:48 pm U.K.

simpson.ian@sky.com

Hi All,

Ihave a Sony SL C7 Betamax whch has been in the loft for a good few years, i set it up and got it working for about 10 minutes. Then when i put a tape in it wouldn't play and was whiring like mad as if it was either rewinding or fast forwarding, it won't do anything else except eject.

Can anyone help or does anyone know who does repairs in West Sussex.

many thanks in anticipation.

Ian

Tony
Wednesday 21st December 2016
3:44 am U.K.

Yesilcamvideo@hotmail.com

Hi everybody i have a sl s2000 sony super betamax chasing a new head for it can anyone help? Also if theres another models head which is compatible is also another option

Javier
Tuesday 20th December 2016
8:14 pm U.K.

Ok0000001@hotmail.com

Hello everyone. I have a Sony sl t50-me Betamax for sale. It's in working conditions with original remote and manual. If you're interested feel free to reach me here.

Gabriel
Tuesday 20th December 2016
5:15 pm U.K.

Nospam@mymail.com

Wow, nice job Frandid. I think It is quite a lot of time consuming but the results are well worth.

Thumbs up for you.

K lambert
Monday 19th December 2016
8:01 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Frandid:

Can I say well done,but for me this should'nt be an issue in the first place.

The LED bars suffer on both the HF100 and 950 but most other Hi-Fi models with led bar graphs don't.

It's pretty poor from our point of view from Sony (Considered the best by many).

I salute you on your efforts and like myself have to make efforts to get certain parts or areas that are no longer available working as they should again or make a compromise.

Nice one....................Kevin

Frandid
Monday 19th December 2016
11:51 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Hi.

I've replaced all the leds from the audio peak prog meter of my SL-HF950ES last week. Half of them weren't working when I bought it. Now they all work :-)

These words just to say it is possible to do it but you must have http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Loupe-Lentille-Pince-Reparation-Lampe-de-Table-pour-Soudure-Soudage-Electronique-/371127160425?hash=item5668e70e69:g:o0cAAOSwpdpVZuaZ and http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Solid-Solder-0-3mm-Flux-Core-63-Tin-37-Lead-Long-Wire-Reel-sp-/181738114959?hash=item2a506f8f8f:g:MgIAAOSw~OVWy2ii and a 30/60w soldering iron with a 0.1mm tip. And of course : http://www.ebay.com/itm/6value-300pcs-SMD-LED-CHIP-0603-Superbright-LEDs-Assorment-Kit-/251506827844?hash=item3a8ef9a244:g:zYYAAOxyaTxTTo3t

Plus a razor blade to cut short circuits betweem the tiny tracks which will almost inevitably happen.

And also a half transparent sheet of plastic to darken the new leds a little.

This is the minimum required. And a LOT of time.

Regards.

K lambert
Thursday 15th December 2016
12:32 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Patvideo:

What you are describing there sounds typical of either worn Hi-Fi heads or an issue with a processing IC for the Hi-Fi.

As this model is not PAL I can guide you no further sadly.

Haver you tried recording anything on it?

If you DO get a Hi-Fi track by playing this on another Beta hi-Fi model then you will no it's NOT the Hi-Fi heads at fault.

...Kev

Patvideo
Thursday 15th December 2016
7:32 am U.K.

patvideo1@gmail.com

Hello fellow obsolete format enthusiasts!~ Just got a Sony SL-2710 Beta. ODD thing! When playing a HI-FI stereo tape, face indicator lights up "HI-FI BETA", BUT, VU meters drop to 0 and no sound comes out of unit. Unit has "hi-fi", "mix", "normal" sound playback switch. If you select "normal" or "mix" sounds comes right back on! But, playing a HIFI tape in HIFI output mode shuts all sound off! I'm stumped. I can pull the cover off and I've replaced belts,etc. So I'm ready to go into battle! I just need some intel on "no HIFI" enemy! ;} Thank you kind sirs!

K Lambert
Monday 12th December 2016
1:20 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Matthew:

Have you looked at the faults page for the 950 here? There is and issue/fault listed that seems to be similar to what yours is doing.

....Kev

Matthew Gibb
Sunday 11th December 2016
11:59 pm U.K.

detailologycarcare2@gmail.com

Hi guys, just been reading about the SLHF950 's linear skate issues, I have another issue

Mine is in superb condition but it has a weird problem

when I hooked it up in the past via scart or RCA it always displayed a snowy picture, one day it was black and this is what it does now upon start up

Does the beta system have automatic gain control circuitry like VHS, it is like you tried to copy a macrovision protected VHS tape and the gain control circuitry kicked in and your copy had colour bleed and issues like this

I dont know what to do besides try my local repairer or send to another guy in Tassie I know.

Paid 150 for it and it now has new video heads which I've cleaned already since this happened and no change

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U3GubWvaxmI

K Lambert
Sunday 11th December 2016
11:06 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Davyrocket;

The first issue you mention IS the mode switch has come loose on the linear skate mechanism.(the knocking noise and going back down again).

I have just repaired one with this issue.

I also always check those PSU capacitors, as quite a few are normally going high esr, resulting in three transistors and a fusible resistor going pop if left for too long.

Some 950 's have had light use though so only a few are just starting to go bad there.

As for the re charcheable battery.I too remember seeing that somewhere but the 950 's I've seen this has been OK.

As for pinch rollers, you can sometimes see them offered but those who do know how to charge for them too.

.........Kev

davyrocket2
Saturday 10th December 2016
8:11 pm U.K.

davyrocket2@aol.co.uk

regarding the linear skate drawer on the SL-HF ,950, the problem with one of my machines is the drawer opens and lifts up the cassette compartment but the mechanism is still operating which is like the teeth making a nasty rattling noise after which it goes back down and operates okay the 2nd machine has a fault whereas it will not fast forward but will picture search it will rewind okay and will picture search if asked to in rewind ,I would also like to find a source of replacement pinch rollers,I did repair the power supply a few years ago and I think nearly every capacitor was replaced along with most of the transistors I also would like to find a suitable replacement battery for the top board I did have details for this but cannot recall them this was for replacing the battery on the ,SL-C9

Frandid
Friday 9th December 2016
2:21 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Kevin,

I am glad that it was my turn to help you.

You helped me several times to repair my SL-C9F, SL-T50ME and SL-HF950ES, as also did Gabriel and NoŽl Higgins.

Here in the south of France I could not have done it all by myself.

As far as the SL-HF950 is concerned I think the pros will see more and more issues with its linear skate in the coming years.

K Lambert
Monday 5th December 2016
8:26 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Gabriel:

Thanks for the kind words and praise.

Indeed the mode switch finger contacts were loose but luckily the motor is fine.

I also have two spare so no worries there either.

You are right tough the switch design is primitive and similar to the internals of the Sanyo VTC M30 and VTC M40 tracking control pot's which also fail occasionally.

Nevertheless I feel confident now to do this to any other's I see with a similar failure.

I also found a way to lightly strengthen that glide rail area to stop that end piece being too stressed with that small roller.

This one had broken off but was still inside the vcr which was good.

Once again many thanks to all...........

.........Kev

Gabriel
Monday 5th December 2016
8:12 pm U.K.

Nospam@gmail.com

Kevin,

I am sure you are solving those issues regarding the 950 quite soon.

As Frandid states (I recall he had a similar problem on this forum, time ago) there is a mode switch -kind of, it is a very primitive design- which often fails and makes the machine going somehow haywire with the skate transport.

That switch sits on the right side of the assembly, viewed the machine from the front side. It is within a small reduction gear group, easily removable. If memory serves me, you'll have to remove the top board, containing the memory battery, tuner, so on.

It is often possible to repair it with patience and glue. Watch out these tiny comb-like contacts!

On the other hand, replacement motors can be savaged from more modern VHS Sony decks. Being the type of "one-block-mecha-assembly" it can be located underside. If not, an original new Mabuchi 370 with the right axis length and diameter is the best solution. Older VHS machines like the SLV757 might also contain an exact replacement for that motor, but there is a chance they are worn as well.

Hope to be helpful!

Gabriel,

K Lambert
Monday 5th December 2016
8:07 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Frandid:

It's my turn to thankyou now.

I was indeed that area and the whole finger contact part was loose.

I've glued it back in and also added a re enforced plastic block to go over this area and glued plus lightly hot melted it so those metal fingers cannot fall out ever again:)

It works A1 now.

I have also taken pictures so to show anyone else who comes across this issue.

The way those fingers were attached is the same as on the Sanyo VTC M30 /40 tracking control pot's by hot melting tiny blobs which DO break off after time.

Actually working on that area was quire enjoyable. One area I've never had to venture until now.

Just the caps to check now in the PSU and it's looking and working pretty damned good now.

Thanks again.............Kev

Frandid
Monday 5th December 2016
11:40 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

I think it is the mode switch (black part) that tells the motor when to stop.

K Lambert
Monday 5th December 2016
10:34 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Frandid:

Thanks for that. It's the first time for me to work in this area of the 950. I was wondering how the motor knew when to shut off after pop up.

I hav'nt checked that area yet so will do.

I think when that sled rail had the broken area and was banging ,it also caused this hatch area to click and go on longer than it should. I think that's why know I've sorted the other it's not stopping.

Will let you know what I find.

Cheers again...................Kev

Frandid
Sunday 4th December 2016
9:12 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Hi Kevin

I will discuss more about the head disc of my SL-HF950 later on :-)

I had several issues with my linear skate so if I can help :

If the motor is extremely noisy it is dead ! (It ca

The closer to the original is the RF 370 that can be found very easily from China on Ebay from 3 to 5 euros. The problem is that not every motor works. I had to try 3 to have one working. They have almost the same reference but some may not be able to be strong enough, or some turn too fast or too slow...

Check that it has exactly the same dimensions as the original, that it is a 12 volts, then... pray !

If the linear skate behaves in a strange way, loads and unloads when you don't hit the eject button it is probably the small mode switch which is half broken. It is easy to repair with super glue and epoxy. I gave the solution here : http://www.palsite.com/950tech.html ("The SL-HF950 linear skate loads at the slightest touch of it...").

The plastic fixations of the 6 contact blade must be broken and the blade is probably moving causing erratic behaviour.

K Lambert
Sunday 4th December 2016
4:35 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Betaphiles:

Just want to throw this out there.

I have been sent a Sony SLHF950 that has two issues.

The first I've sorted and was down to the very end of the skating mechanism slide rail being broken off.

The second is when the tape hatch pops up the motor keeps wirring until eventually it goes down again on it's own and withdraws inside the machine.

Is this a fault with this motor internally. I removed this assembly and I have stopped the loud clicking at this point but now the motor keeps turning continuously on pop up. It has operated once correctly but now is turning all the time until it goes back inside.

I do have two spares that I can try but thought I'd ask in case anyone else has come across this?

Cheers in advance..................Kev

Roderick
Saturday 3rd December 2016
9:41 pm U.K.

nospam@chatpage.co.uk

Cees, it will depend on what is recorded on the tape.

If recorded on a Betacam machine, yes. If recorded on a Betamax machine, no.

Main problem will be the difference in tape speed between the two system although the tapes are the same size.

A L750 3 hour tape will run for 30 minutes in a Betacam machine.

Cees Stouten
Saturday 3rd December 2016
3:58 pm U.K.

mail@csadvies.nl

Is it possible to play a Sony DX L-750 tape on a Betamax SP UVW-1600P player?

K Lambert
Thursday 1st December 2016
4:08 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Frandid:

You pose a good question there.

In theory due to the nature of the recording system used on PAL Beta vcr's the Hi-Fi audio ,should deteriorate before the picture, as this is recorded deeper onto the tape with the video skimmed over the top at a slightly different angle to avoid any crosstalk interference.

Usually the Hi-Fi will be lost or have a limited tracking range before the video shows signs of advanced wear with picture tearing, especially around white to black objects. When recording with wearing Hi-Fi heads you will get during playback a clicking /tizzing noise that you cannot get rid of on this vcr. The tracking range will also be severely limited and you will be lucky to get any Hi-Fi sound off centre. This is also providing the internals are set up perfectly too.

I believe it's called depth multiplexing.

The NTSC system had more room for the Hi-Fi so used the same two heads for BOTH. The nice thing there is two head discs are easier to come by (and cheaper) than the four head Hi-Fi type.

Also on the SLHF950 there are five heads.(even six as I think it has a flying erase head too?)

Two set's opposite for the Hi-Fi audio and three set's on the other two opposite (on one side a head is split into two with one tiny head angled differently to give the clear still picture).

This third head is very easily damaged as it's the smallest so beware.

I have seen a Sanyo M40 with still decent hi-Fi but the video ones are (or look to be) bad.

On most (99%) the hi-Fi goes first.

It is also possible I guess to damage or cause premature wear to a head when cleaning them improperly. Make sure too cleaning type tapes are used very sparingly, avoid the wet types with those horrible ribbons that will wrap around the capstan (I've seen it happen) preferably avoid them all and keep those flaming cotton buds well away!!

Hope this helps....................Kev

(Reposted down to revision and spelling mistakes)

Frandid
Thursday 1st December 2016
1:04 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Hi Kevin and Gabriel

I had to take off the tape holder to deeply clean the head drum, and now it's OK. :-)

Just a question, for my knowledge : Is-it possible on the SL-HF950 that one of the rotating video heads starts being worn yet hi-fi sound is still OK on both channels even with extreme (bad) settings of the normal tracking button ?

I saw clearly that there are 4 heads on the head disc, I don't know if each of them is a video and hi-fi audio head at the same time or if only two or three are video heads and one or two hi-fi audio only.

If it is like in VHS all four should be video and audio at the same time, hence if a video head starts to be damaged audio will be affected at the same time.

On VHS when rotating heads start to wear hi-fi audio is affected before video shows any problem !!

I know that there is a difference between VHS and Beta about how the hi-fi audio work on both sytems, but cannot remember what is this difference.

Regards.

K Lambert
Thursday 1st December 2016
2:07 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Frandid:

My friend I think you've just found your answer.

WELL DONE........

It's obviously a dubious tape has deposited this on the surface and hence your current issues.

.............Kev

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