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Chat Page News
Thursday 27th April 2017

Please bookmark http://chat.palsite.com/chat_page.py as the new URL.

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K Lambert
Sunday 16th April 2017
10:24 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Joe:

I've sent you an e-mail to the address you've added here.(don't know if you've received it yet)

It will give you privacy in sending over your address details so I can get a good quote for returning the vcr back to you.

..Kevin

Frandid
Saturday 15th April 2017
8:22 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

By the way, I am looking for an original RMT-217 remote for my SL-T50ME, I only had a RM-612 instead when I bought it. I want it to look almost new because all my video machines and remotes (even those aged more than 30 years) look new. And I am quite a perfectionnist !

Joe I am pleased if some of my passionate comments may be of some interest for you.

One thing : The average price of a working SL-HF950 on Ebay is about 800 /1000 € but sometimes you can find one for less than 450€. You must check twice a week because they are rapidly sold. Most of the time they are auctions that start from 50 € and are finally sold bewteen 300 and 450 € depending on their cosmetic aspect.

K Lambert
Saturday 15th April 2017
6:23 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Joe:

My friend rest assured I have worked on hundreds of Sanyo's and sadly your comments from so called professionals is very common. THEY DON'T WANT TO KNOW basically and do the very smallest things to these(usually try to replace belt's and idlers)and that's it! (My E-Bay ID is: knightman2 feel free to check it out.)

I have had many delighted recipients to my machines as I am one of the very few who it THOROUGH and as these are getting on in age now THEY NEED IT :)

I could give you many names that would be happy to back up my comments.

I would of course LOVE to get one or even both perfect for you.

I would estimate the packing at around 11KG to allow for plenty of good strong packing and then would need your full address to get a quote for you.

I have promised to do this work for you for nothing but if you feel you want to pay me for it i'll leave that up to you entirely, as you are having difficulties getting said machines the attention they truly deserve.

If I cannot solve your issues then I doubt many could. That comment is from experience and lot's of it.

No dout either wasting more money on questionable machines. The owners do not always tell it like it is and the buyer usually finds out the hard way. I've been on the end of that many times too.

Let me have your details and we'll get the ball rolling again for you.

........Kevin (UK)

K Lambert
Saturday 15th April 2017
6:05 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Frandid:

Sanyo did build secam units PAL/Secam units.I have one here.

As for the unreliable comment for the Sanyo's. I wouldn't say that just after 30 odd years they require a damn good overhaul as do most vcr unit's, used for that period of time. The Sony issues are not usually down to lack of servicing but breakages or bad PSU caps or faulty transistors/halls sensors so in effect are unreliable there. Not too mention the extra tape, tape path and head wear being laced all the time too. You may enjoy all those extra modes/features but this comes at a price usually. Especially when they go wrong.

The sled areas on the 950 are now starting to fail, (mode switches and plastic rails to add to the tally) There are some who cannot sort out these issues, or wouldn't want to try too either.

I admit the rubber component use is always not good after many years but is so easily remedied. Finding tiny gears, new hall sensors or some issues needing extensive searching for are not. As you yourself have found out.

So in effect the Sanyo is a stronger, easily sorted machine that lasts pretty well when looked after well and treated with respect to this.

Joe:

No problem and 950 's in great order with light use are rare over here. The one's that do pop up in exceptional shape with all accessories are expensive and snapped up quickly.

..Kevin

Bee
Saturday 15th April 2017
5:33 pm U.K.

earlybird21@live.com

Hi I'm Bee from the UK.

I hope one of you can kindly advise.

My father sadly passed away at Christmas and I'm having to sort through many stored items.

I have a collection of Betamax films which have been stored for the Last 10 years.

They have all been kept in the original Video rental store boxes so all appear to be in good condition, but I haven't tested them yet.

What you think would be a fair price for the lot as I have absolutely no idea. I understand some horror titles may be rare? Appreciate any help on this.

Full list of tapes:

Star Wars

The war of the worlds

Airplane

Every Which way but Loose

Butterfly

The Last Horror Film

The Concrete jungle

Trail of the pink Panther

Firefox

Jaws 3

Class of 1984

Danger Mouse

Buddy and Skipper

Rocky 3

15 terrytoon Cartoons

Terrytoons Vol 1

The Frisco Kid

Voices

The Deer Hunter

The French Lieutenants woman

Survival Zone

Time Slip

Driver

Death on the Nile

I drink Your Blood

The Lord of the Rings

Arthyur

First Blood

Noon Sunday

Laura Shadows of Summers

Flashdance

Time bandits

Flash Gordon

Abducted

The Awakenening

Evil under the sun

The Elephant Man

Echoes

Chariots of Fire

The Burning

Choppy and the princess

Fort Apache The Bronx

Personal Best

Venom

The Long Good Friday

Golda

Sam Raimi's The Evil Dead

The Jesus Trap

The water babies

Black Beauty

Choppy and the princess 2

The Archer and the Sorceress

One flew over the cuckoo's nest

Agatha Christies The Mirror Crack'd

Halloween 3 Season of the Witch

Tess

Star Wars

Footloose

Sudden Impact

Superman 3

The Amityville Horror

The Last American virgin

The Iron Master

Blood and Honour

Mad Max 3

Raiders of the lost Arc

Perfect Gentlemen

Conan the Barbarian

Star Treck 2 The Wrath of Khan

Captain America

Watership Down

Who Dares Wins

Foul Play

Willo the Wisp

Sunshine Run

Escape to victory

Little Lord Fauntleroy

The Champ

Torn between two lovers

Rocky 2

The Jazz singer

Terms of Endearment

The Last Tycoon

Bronx Warriors

Carry on cleo

Immoral Tales

The Jericho Mile

Porkys

Brubaker

The Amateur

Poltergeist

Romeo and Juliet

Callipoli

Mother Lode

The Shining

Survive!

Jaws

48 Hrs

Big Bad mama

Frandid
Saturday 15th April 2017
3:58 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

By the way, I am looking for an original RMT-217 remote for my SL-T50ME, I only had a RM-612 instead when I bought it. I want it to look almost as new because all my video machines and remotes (even those aged more than 30 years) look as new. And I am quite a perfectionnist !

Joe I am pleased if some of my passionate comments may be of some interest for you.

One thing : The average price of a working SL-HF950 on Ebay is about 800 /1000 € but sometimes you can find one for less than 450€. You must check twice a weak because they are rapidly sold. Most of the time they are auctions that start from 50 € and are finally sold bewteen 300 and 450 € depending on their cosmetic aspect.

joe
Saturday 15th April 2017
3:33 pm U.K.

jcvfabogado@gmail.com

Thanks frandid too.

As i said, i have a very good friend here. Is a pleasure, and i tell you the same that MR Lambert, is you know a good hf950 unit, please fell free to contact to me.

id like to have one of this machines.

Id like to have a good units to see my old betamax tapes and i am looking to buy a good jvc vhs prosumer unit for my vhs tapes, but this is another question and is no concerning to this place.

Thanks to all

joe
Saturday 15th April 2017
3:26 pm U.K.

jcvfabogado@gmail.com

Many thanks MR Lambert, i can tell one clearly thing, i dont know you personally but i dont need to know personally a man to tell is my friend and for me you are a very good friend. Every people who try to help another whitout wait absolutly anything should be a good man and here in the forun there are very good people

You helped me in the past time whit my twom40 and even remember when i post here for first time whith vtc-nx10 and you allways tryed to help me so i can said totally you are my fríend.

As i said the machines are in my parent house but i am confident that as soon as i can i will send you and i can tell this, if is imposible to fix one or even the two, i will give you.

Here in Spain id see that for 25 or 30 Euros i can send you the VCR.

Is there are another cheap option please fell free to tell me.

Is clear that i prefer to pay to you, because when i send the VCR i would like you can revise this machines for full, hopefully maybe i can use it for many time whitout problems.

If you know a good hf950 i am interested to buy one too.

Thanks to all

Frandid
Saturday 15th April 2017
3:20 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Kevin,

No doubt you're a qualified betamax repairer, you gave me some good advices which helped me repair my 3 machines in the past but I don't share many of your positions concerning the Sony ! And I'm sure you received as much compliments for repairing Sony models from your customers !

You wrote Sanyo DID build Secam Beta models, I probably already saw a flying saucer in France but a Sanyo SECAM Beta never, for sure ! And even in the PAL and NTSC systems I am sure they were hundreds of times less nummerous than the Sony. So if you repair as many Sanyo Beta machines this mean they were in fact less reliable ;-)

I know that the prehistoric Sony Beta were bulky, I recorded all my beta tapes in a Sony SL-C6 F !

But the hundred of Beta cassettes I kept plays perfectly in my SL-T50ME, SL-C9 F and SL-HF950ES. And I like to see the recorded programmes as much as I like to see the VCRs working !

Joe,

Also consider the fact that sending 2 heavy VCRs abroad will probably cost you more in shipping charge than buying a SL-T20 or SL-T30 on Ebay. Make a simulation on your post office internet site, for 2 machines the weight should be about 25 kg good package included.

If you were in the South East of France I would be pleased to watch them for free and almost sure I could make at least one perfectly working, but due to shipment charge and risks I wouldn't advise you to send them to me.

K Lambert
Saturday 15th April 2017
1:56 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Joe:

My friend rest assured I have worked on hundreds of Sanyo's and sadly your comments from so called professionals is very common. THEY DON'T WANT TO KNOW basically and do the very smallest things to these(usually try to replace belt's and idlers)and that's it! (My E-Bay ID is: knightman2 feel free to check it out.)

I have had many delighted recipients to my machines as I am one of the very few who it THOROUGH and as these are getting on in age now THEY NEED IT :)

I could give you many names that would be happy to back up my comments.

I would of course LOVE to get one or even both perfect for you.

I would estimate the packing at around 11KG to allow for plenty of good strong packing and then would need your full address to get a quote for you.

I have promised to do this work for you for nothing but if you feel you want to pay me for it i'll leave that up to you entirely, as you are having difficulties getting said machines the attention they truly deserve.

If I cannot solve your issues then I doubt many could. That comment is from experience and lot's of it.

No dout either wasting more money on questionable machines. The owners do not always tell it like it is and the buyer usually finds out the hard way. I've been on the end of that many times too.

Let me have your details and we'll get the ball rolling again for you.

........Kevin (UK)

joe
Saturday 15th April 2017
12:39 pm U.K.

jcvfabogado@gmail.com

i forgot it. i spent more tan 100 euros in tecnical guy to get absolutly nothing

joe
Saturday 15th April 2017
12:37 pm U.K.

jcvfabogado@gmail.com

as i know i am in friends place, i need to tell my history about my two vtc-m40

last year i buyed couple of vtc-m40 for only 40 euros, at least seller was sincery and told me the two VCR was not perfect. Ok i decided to asume the risk

i buyed the two VCR and then i send it to a "special sanyo tecnical".

one unit was not bad, but in my opinión it needed new belts, the other one needed new belt and another pieces because it damaged the tapes.

ok after many and many hours to find, i finally managed to get two belt kits and other spare parts, i send the two m40 to the tecnical guy and after two months this was the finally of the story

One of m40 have new belts but have track problem, this is the unit i usually use to "see" my tapes, the tecnical guy did not check the track problem and when i said, hey this VCR has this problem, your answers was." never send me a betamax, vhs is more easier to work whit it"

The other VCR was return to me exactly like i send him, and the answer was:" the VCR are fully damaged and you should not spend money in it", did you check it? was my question, no, but you shouldnt want to spend more money. This only is a old relic

So every people who read my post can see how dissapointed i i had in this moment.

This was few months ago. After been father, i have 38 year old and i have a precious Little baby, and a new job and house i left the fórum and forgot this fantastic world for sometime.

now i am back and finally want to resolve a back to life my vcr

Now as i said i am back and i want to finally resolve the VCR problems and tell my son the history of this precios betamax/betacord machines.

I know is a long post but i need to tell my history to good friends

joe
Saturday 15th April 2017
11:40 am U.K.

jcvfabogado@gmail.com

its a pleasure to find people who can and knows how to help.

As i said many times here in Spain there are no professionals at all.

Now in eBay i found a couple of hf950, one of this unit it cost 199€ but, its impossible to know if the unit are in good or bad conditions.

Another in 500€ and in germany in 800 and more.

The only VCR that I would actually buy full confidence is one unit fully checked for people here in the fórum like frandid, bjorn, and of course for MR Lambert.

i am thinking to send you, MR Lambert the two m-40, if you can fix both or at least one for me will be fantastic. i dont know what the travel cost can be,if you can help me i try to know the travel cost and of course i pay you for the restauration and pieces

K Lambert
Saturday 15th April 2017
10:17 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Joe:

Re reading your last post it does sound like the forward capstan servo pot needs a slight adjustment. After many years these can need just a tiny adjustment on some.

The noise coming and going on it's own is what will happen if so.

If you could get it over here I would be happy to get this A1 for you and seeing as posting would be at cost, no charge for this either just return posting.

..Kevin

K Lambert
Saturday 15th April 2017
10:08 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Oh and as for the 'too bulky looking', have you seen the Sony C6 or C5 /7 now THAT's BULKY.(yes I know the Sanyo 9300 was but it was their first vcr and many are still working today)

Each too their own but I like USING my vcr's and know the ones I sort are still doing that.Also the always laced 'feature' on Sony's and Toshiba's does cause excessive tape wear. The tiny oxide particles usually around one or too guides is proof of that.

.Kevin

K Lambert
Saturday 15th April 2017
10:01 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Frandid:

If you are talking about Spain or even France you could be right and yes Sanyo DID make Pal/Secam models too.

The reason so many Sony's are around I'm afraid is they were not very solidly built and that's why 98% of the ones i see ,despite being described as 'working order', have issues.

Broken plastic small gears and bad transistors and capacitors are their main issues,broken solder joint's are another ,especially on the poorly supported BNC socket's on the HF100 board.That is the most common model for that, but then you get the ones fiddled with by those who should not be inside causing horrendous faults and broken damaged heads. I've seen a few like that too.

If we are talking solidly built you cannot beat a Sanyo beta. Their only Achilles heel after many hours use are belt's and rubber idler tyres (very easily sorted and still available),an upgrade to a reel drive resistor after many hours use and a clean and general transport function servo/back tension check (that should apply to all vcr's after time) are all that's required on the hundreds I've sorted for many and are still giving their all.The Sanyo M30/40 &50 will also need that tracking pot checked out too. Some fail some don't.If we are talking cosmetically then all makes suffer with rough handling to the fragile outer flaps and you will see many like this from rough handling.

The pinch rollers on the later Sony's are also prone to wear in worst cases going hard causing tape rippling in play and even worse in reverse search modes.

These are NOT easy to come by either. The Sanyo pinch roller lasts for a phenomenally long time and usually just requires a light clean.

In the UK Sony's are held in high regard but they are not as well built as a Sanyo. Too many complexities and fragile parts that I have seen many of. The failing too of most of the VU level meters on the HF100 and HF950 is just not acceptable either. Sanyo managed to obtain ones that NEVER failed on all their Hi-Fi models (VHS and BETA) why Sony's were prone to this is strange and does spoil the machines look if so.

Maybe in France they are seen that way but not here in the UK.

.Kevin

Frandid
Saturday 15th April 2017
4:22 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Joe,

I think the main reason why repairers see more Sony than Sanyo in their workshops is that the Sony were by far much more sold than the Sanyo. I never saw a Sanyo beta VCR in France, and I don't think they ever made a single SECAM unit. Almost all PAL Sony Beta were available in France in PAL/SECAM or SECAM only version.

Just check Ebay and other sites (which you have probably done) and see that you can quite easily find a SL-C9, SL-HF100, SL-HF950, SL-C20, SL-C30. Now try to find a PAL Sanyo... You will only find a few NTSC...

I would never exchange one of my Sony for a Sanyo as I said. Not only because they have great features as slow motion, 2X etc. but also because it is still possible to find spares 35 years later.

Nevertheless if you like your Sanyo you could follow Kevin's advice and try to have it repaired. If it only comes from the tracking pot it could be easily done I think. But the fact that the tracking pot doesn't have any action could also come from a bad mechanical alignment, I've already seen this happen. The fact that you have video noise up and down and that the tracking doesn't work could also mean that the video heads are worn, I also saw this on my old VHS VCRs in the past. That's why I asked you if you didn't put a little video showing the problem on Youtube.

K Lambert
Saturday 15th April 2017
1:38 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Joe:

Your issue with your M40 is down to the tracking pot being faulty.

I can send you one I've repaired for yours in return to repair. This would be a lot easier then sending the whole vcr.

You would need someone capable to replace this ,which is not a hard job.

One way to know for sure is when you picture search the tape,turn the tracking slowly left and right.

Do the thin noise bars rise up and down in response wih each movement?

If they don't then it IS this if they do then it's not.

It could be the servo pot for the capstan in the play mode needs a tiny tweak.

Let me know................Kevin (UK)

K Lambert
Saturday 15th April 2017
1:35 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Hi Betaphiles:

I've been reading these latest comments with interest.

As far as Sony and Sanyo Betamax vcr's go, and I've been repairing, servicing and refurbishing these for quite a good few years now ,go, this is my take on it.

The Sanyo M40 is a great machine, i have seen a few with worn hi-Fi heads and this is usually accompanied by a replaced reel motor signifying a high level of use.

The tracking pot's can come apart inside and I have successfully repaired around six with this issue. Apart from this and the usual reel drive components and a need to change the value of the reel drive resistor during unlacing, which affects many Sanyo's if the vcr has been used regularly, then they are a very good reliable vcr offering the highest PAL 1 picture bandwith at around 2.8.The drop out compensator is effective so long as the adjustment is checked but maybe not quite as 'invisible' as the one on Sony's HF100.

The Sony SLHF950 Superbeta is a great machine but suffers with it's PSU after time ,usually blowing out two transistors and a fusible resistor in the process. The sled mechanism is prone to a broken sled track and also the mode switch comes loose. It also usually has failed LED's for the audio level VU meter, sometimes a failed hall sensor for the head drum motor. Also other anomalies affecting the beta hi-Fi (transistors) and a diode opening up causing no picture output. The list goes on. It does offer sublime picture quality if using Superbeta pro and the correct tapes for that and the drop out compensator is one of the best.

The C9 is a very technical machine for it's time over complex and suffers with failed Dc-Dc components that will wipe out other ones if left for long enough. The loading slot mechanism needs metal gears for the plastic white ones which break. It can suffer with failed transistors causing the deck to freak out. The usual hall sensor glue issue. The PSU usually has failed caps (as do many Sony's of powered up for long periods).The head drum (as it's a direct drive system for both reel spools like the F1 )can cause a bumping in rewind due to lack of friction or a over shiny upper drum. The drop out compensator is also poor compared to the later Sony models.

These comments are from working on many in the last year or so ,and having the opportunity to see all models working up close and personal in quick succession.

...............Kevin

joe
Friday 14th April 2017
6:01 pm U.K.

jcvfabogado@gmail.com

Hello, i have no link to see the m40 problems, but i can do it if you can help me.

the VCR didnt damage the tapes, it has noise up and down of the picture. sometimes the noise dissapear and back again by itself.

the track button does not workt at all.

As you probably know, i need a PAL VCR because i am spanish.

Honestly, to see the tapes in new 4k led, what is the sony that you can recomend me?

i dont think i have superbeta tapes. my beta tapes was adquired in 80s and are rallyes, so i dont think any of the productions of 80s used superbeta mode.

c9 is cheaper than 950, this 950 model i see in ebay and other places in 900 Euros and c9 is much much cheaper.

Sanyo m40 is imposible to find in this moment, and m50 as i said in last post i never seen one in europe to sold.

i have hifi tapes because the hifi in m40 works properly and i need a hifi model

Frandid
Friday 14th April 2017
11:34 am U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Joe,

I wouln't be able to choose between my 3 beta I like each one ! I don't think the SL-C9 is less reliable than the HF-950 : Aging HF950 have less PSU problems for sure (because they don't have a CD09 module) but have problems due to their linear skate and vu-meters... All Sony may have the HES problem. The HES should be checked immediately after buying a Sony and cleaned if it looks brownish. Nevertheless I think they are the best. As I am french I mainly watch my old home made SECAM cassettes, so I can say the best SECAM player is the SL-T50ME immediately followed by the SL-C9 F, because my C9 is a SECAM only machine. The T50 has more natural colors. The C9 has a much brighter picture with more contrast and has a better drop out compensation system. The HF-950 drop out compensation is less efficient even with the PAL system and the T50 has the weakest drop out compensation. But these are tiny differences, all 3 have a good picture and I think the difference is less visible with the PAL system.

You can see here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mygP1Uq6KLs a 32 years old video transferred to digital with my SL-T50ME a few weeks ago. It was originally recorded with a SL-C6 F (the only one I could afford when I was young). If I had used the C9 contrast would have been higher, color less natural but more stable especially the pink and red. (Same with the HF950 with a slight difference in color range and less contrast). You can see other videos on my YT channel transferred from beta, they start with the Beta logo. Don't forget that this was recorded on analog air broadcasting... and it has been recompressed by Youtube... Another one which has been transferred with the Sony SL-C9 here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcv0l-1zXiE

Have you got a link where you explain your Sanyo tracking problem, or a Youtube video where you show it ?

Is the VCR damaging your tapes or do you have noise up or down the picture ? Is the tracking button working a little or not at all ?

Joe
Wednesday 12th April 2017
3:58 pm U.K.

jcvfabogado@gmail.com

thanks to frandid and bjorn for help me.

I think the m40 maybe is a great machine, i cant confirm it because as i said mine have tracking problems.

i see you have a sony c9 in common. so is better Sanyo m40 than c9 and the 950 better than c9?

Maybe if you help me i can discard the c9 and try to choose between m40 and 950.

I think that Sanyo m50 was sold only in Australia. In europe i never seen one to sold.

The main problema here in Spain is that there are no experts to repair this VCR and is a shame that we cant maintain our Betamax in properly work conditions.

Frandid
Tuesday 11th April 2017
6:22 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Joe,

I know the repairers prefer the Sanyo because they seem to be more reliable. But I never liked them, they look too bulky and don't have many features such as slow motion, reverse, x2 etc.

I have 3 Sony, picture is very good on each of them, but I also like just to see them ! The top range SL-HF950 (Super Beta, HiFi) is great, The ES model is PAL / SECAM, and it's nice to watch its linear skate work ! I also own a SL-C9 and a SL-T50ME, both have unique features and work very well. Of course I had some problems with them, but once they are repaired they work well. The easiest to find are the HF950 and the C9.

Frandid

Bjorn
Tuesday 11th April 2017
5:43 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

Hi Joe

What VCR? Well, this one tends to spark of quite some lively debates. I personally prefer the Sanyo VCRS as I tend to find them less troublesome. Some will argue that the Sony produces the better picture quality, and in some cases they could be right.

I tend to find with Sony, however, that the color is a little too strong for some LCD screens so end up adjusting the saturation, yet this could just be down to my VCRs needing a little attention.

Sanyo's tend to handle worn or damaged tapes a lot better, but the belts and idlers tend to wear. The Sony's often have a more reliable mechanics but the electrics let them down. Given the choice, a good VTC-M40 is my preferred machine. As much as I do like my C9, it's never been reliable, too many issues.

Joe
Tuesday 11th April 2017
3:15 pm U.K.

jcvfabogado@gmail.com

I think that maybe can be a good idea to make a post or section in the web or something like that where the people can sell and post recomended places or webs where to buy a good VCR and a fair price too.

i am sure that most of us we know some place or people who have old betamax and want to sell it and maybe we can find a good new house for our old glories

Douglas
Tuesday 11th April 2017
1:24 pm U.K.

dougo13@gmail.com

Just wanted to let people know that there is a great resource called Youtube for fixing many of the older vcrs in your collection. That includes Betas as well as VHS decks. The nice thing is the visuals so you don't have to guess where parts are, what readings you need to get on an ohm meter, etc. I've been following 12voltvids for awhile now as he is very knowledgeable on older equipment and will also take questions as to your malfunctioning equipment. There are several other older techs who also do vids so do a search based on your model number. In many cases, they will also show where to buy parts. In the US at least, there are also a few outfits that will sell you a completely refurbished unit and will include a warranty. I want to get a new refurbished deck so I can transfer my old recordings to a digital format but I've also come across an old tech in my town who has several non-working Betamaxes that he will give to me for free (to clear some shelf space as he says). Hopefully I can get something up and running with the resources here and elsewhere online.

Joe
Tuesday 11th April 2017
9:57 am U.K.

jcvfabogado@gmail.com

Sanyo vtc-m40, vtc-m50, Sony SL-HF950, sl hf100 or other model, what VCR to buy?

Hello, i was out the web long time for job, now i have more time so i am back.

As some people knows here in the fórum last year i buyed a Sanyo VTC-M40, this unit never worked properly, i managed to find some people who changed the belts, pinch rollers etc but the track problem never was resolved.

Now in my own house i have a 55 inches 4k LCD and want to buy a good VCR to see my old tapes in the new tv.My old vcr are in my parents house

this VCR, the m40 -m50 and 950 are top of range, if you have enough money you can have all three models in good conditions, so what to choose?

i dont know why but my head say the sony, and the advantage of course is that for Sony there are spare parts, are very expensive but is posible to find it, Sanyo spare parts are more difficult.

Help me please, i want to spend my money one last and finally time

Frandid
Sunday 9th April 2017
4:07 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Hi from the sunny south of France, Nigel ;-)

It seems you cleaned your HES too late. If the tape works for 2 seconds in all modes then stops it means the HES has passed away when you first powered on your VCR after years of storage, due to short circuit of its pins. You can check this easily: When you power on your unit check if the head drum makes some turns. If it doesn't and if it seems paralysed then it is dead. If you didn't touch anything a servo board failure is very unlikely. If you're not a pro it is quite difficult to replace, I did it on a SL-HF950ES and hope I'll never have to do it again ! I think the head drum in your unit is the same as in a SLT-50ME or a SL-C9.

Frandid.

Nigel Rotherham
Saturday 8th April 2017
5:07 pm U.K.

nigel@keepsmiling.co.za

Greetings from sunny South Africa :-)

Used to have a Sony C7 (great machine) but after being struck by lightening (happens during summer in this part of the world) I obtained a used SL-C30SA ( C7 had to be surrendered for insurance claim) and was working fine when put into storage. Now few years later wanting to transfer family Beta recording to DVD, unit is not functional :-( Symptoms are that tape loads but not possible to play / FF / Rew. Head drum not rotating so cleaned glue from Hall effect sensor as per guide but no improvement.

What next?

I have not been able to locate schematic but do have an oscilloscope that could use to assist fault finding IF someone can point me in correct direction (fingers crossed!).

Looking forward to receiving guidance.

MANY thanks in advance.

Best regards

Nigel R

R2d2
Friday 7th April 2017
2:30 pm U.K.

r2d2gtt@gmail.com

K.Lamber.

Thanks for showing me where the failure may be. When playing it seems to be skewed and looks black and white, but this is due to the slower playback speed. When you play fast in play, they look in color. I think rather the problem seems to be on the front and rear rollers to the engine. I think there is a kit for the problem.

Adol
Friday 7th April 2017
1:27 pm U.K.

adolfo.gonzalezsaez@gmail.com

Hello. Has somebody an answer to my problem? The technical diagnosis said problem with "servo"...

K lambert
Friday 7th April 2017
11:20 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

R2D2:

As far as reel torque goes for the Sony 950.

You would need the Sony torque cassette for the ultimate result.

If by lack of torque you mean the machine cut's out after pressing play or struggles.

Does the magnet for the motor seem to be rubbing on the coils making a light scraping noise as ,if so this will greatly affect the torque or lack of.

You can fit a self made small washer into the base magnet shaft hole to raise this and overcome this issue.

Also there is no forward torque adjusting pot as on previous Sony's either on this model.The back tension too will affect said torque that's why you really need this torque cassette to check.

Where about's in the world are you?

....Kevin

R2d2
Friday 7th April 2017
8:34 am U.K.

r2d2gtt@gmail.com

Thanks for answering Neil.

I am looking for a replacement of the entire reel or second-hand reel in good condition. I can not find anywhere with spare parts.

I understand that the most common fault with the 950s is the lack of torque of the reel, as I see the best cure is to replace the chassis of the reel and springs or look for a "Mod Kid" motor.

Neil
Thursday 6th April 2017
9:04 pm U.K.

neilrued@mail2engineer.com

Hello Antonio,

What do you mean by how to find the lack of reel torque for the Sony HF950?

Do you mean which tool to use for measuring the reel torque? Or did you want to know what is the value for the optimal reel torque? Or how to accurately measure the difference between the required torque and the actual torque of the reel? Or did you mean the procedure on how to correctly measure the reel torque? Or did you want to know how to adjust the reel torque?

R2d2
Thursday 6th April 2017
5:35 pm U.K.

r2d2gtt@gmail.com

Good afternoon from Seville. My name is Antonio and I am a follower of the Betamax System. Since a few days ago I managed to repair a unit half, Sony SL HF950 and I would like to know if anyone knows where I can find the lack of reel torque. Thank you

Bjorn
Wednesday 5th April 2017
6:17 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

Thanks Neil,

I have managed to source some idler tyres to fit. I just need to finish a Sanyo I'm working on. My VTC-6500 which has a couple of sound issues, nothing major but a little irritating. Also the front touch controls have worn through as they do with age, very tricky to sort out but should have the machine restored.

Neil
Saturday 1st April 2017
10:05 am U.K.

neilrued@mail2engineer.com

pumabr, I found a web site that also sells the Operation and Service manual, as a pdf download, for USD50 and USD51.15 respectively.

The web site URL is: http://www.manuals-in-pdf.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&keyword=SL-F90

In my experience, service manuals for VCRs always carry a price tag because they are subject to copyright, and the companies who put the manuals together, still try to exact their pound of flesh, even though they probably recouped their investment in paying their (presumably now retired) staff to put the Service Manuals together, and the printing costs (as to why there should be such a steep charge for pdf publication, I have no idea; I suppose it's because they can) decades ago.

Neil
Saturday 1st April 2017
9:44 am U.K.

neilrued@mail2engineer.com

Bjorn I found these suggestions on idler tires, from tapeheads.net:

From somebody with the handle: ke4mcl

"on the cheapskate route... you can service it and bring it back to life.

if you can remove the idler it makes this job tons easier but it can be done with the tire in place.

take fine sandpaper and carefully rotate the tire while applying light pressure against the sandpaper. this should remove the glazing thats causing it to slip. when the tire begins to look like carbon black you've gotten all the glazing off. now take a q-tip dipped in alcohol and clean the surfaces the tire runs against. dont get alcohol on the tire. once done with that take a DRY q-tip and clean all the rubber dust off the idler."

For the alcohol, I'd recommend 99.9% pure isopropanol A.K.A. isopropyl alcohol.

Other suggestions:

From somebody with the handle: retrokeeper

"Sound Electronics has idlers,even had a sizing guide you can download.MCM Electronics also has them also. Rob

"

I Googled sound electronics and clicked on the web site called studiosoundelectronics, and clicked on the relevant links, there is a link to download their sizing guide.

I'm not sure if the web site URL will appear here, but I'll post it just in case, for copying and pasting to your browser's URL field: http://www.studiosoundelectronics.com/it.htm

Hope this helps.

Neil
Saturday 1st April 2017
9:30 am U.K.

neilrued@mail2engineer.com

Hello,

I'm interested in trying to repair a Toshiba V-51A Betamax front loading VCR.

The fault is with the speed of the tape during both Play back and Recording modes.

The tape speed is stuck on Fast Forward / CUE speed when only the [Play] button is pushed. The display on the screen looks like a FF/Review screen and has lines dividing the screen into three horizontal sections.

When the [Rec] button is pushed the tape also is stuck at an apparently similar FF/CUE speed, without recording any useful signal.

Could someone please advise which electrical, electronic or mechanical components may require checking or replacement? Are the drive belts possible culprits?

Bjorn
Tuesday 28th March 2017
4:56 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

I just finished working on an interesting Beta. This one is a Rank Top Loaded, basically a re-branded Toshiba V-5470

Any idea's where I can get idler tyres for this? Pleasantly surprised with the sound and picture quality, but the machine doesn't rewind. It this the only model that Rank did, of are the more?

Roderick
Sunday 26th March 2017
9:51 pm U.K.

nospam@chatpage.co.uk

Don, I have responded to your question in the Umatic section.

Don Sugden
Friday 24th March 2017
10:29 am U.K.

Lumby@hotmail.com

Hi, my Grandad has a Sony VO-6800ps but the batteries are pretty useless now. It has an option for an external power supply but I can't find anything for this. From the research I have done it looks like I need a power supply that will connect to the device with a female 4 pin XLR. I have seen the following on eBay but not sure what I would then connect the D-Tap end to in order to power the device. Any suggestions appreciated....

2-Pin D-Tap to 4-Pin XLR for 12VDC power adaptation

Thanks

Noel Higgins
Thursday 23rd March 2017
10:29 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

James,

I should have added you can look at each model I mentioned under videos in PALSITE to see the associated remotes model number.

cheers Noel

Noel Higgins
Thursday 23rd March 2017
10:27 am U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

James,

The remotes from F1, SLC9, SLC30, SLC34, SLC35, SLC40, SLC80, SLHF100, SLHF150 and SLF60 will work with an SLF30.

regards Noel

Don Sugden
Wednesday 22nd March 2017
9:02 pm U.K.

Lumby@hotmail.com

Hi, my Grandad has a Sony VO-6800ps but the batteries are pretty useless now. It has an option for an external power supply but I can't find anything for this. From the research I have done it looks like I need a power supply that will connect to the device with a female 4 pin XLR. I have seen the following on eBay but not sure what I would then connect the D-Tap end to in order to power the device. Any suggestions appreciated....

2-Pin D-Tap to 4-Pin XLR for 12VDC power adaptation

Thanks

James
Wednesday 22nd March 2017
6:52 pm U.K.

james.yourway@gmail.com

Hi Guys new here does anyone which remotes can work with Sony Betamax SL-F30UB

Thanks

Noel Higgins
Saturday 18th March 2017
10:50 pm U.K.

noelmh@nospam.tpg.com.au

Hello again all - Don't get on much these days but still fixing machines.

Dominic,

You can still get belt kits in Sydney Australia from WES COMPONENTS.

Their website is

See their catalogue page at https://www.wes.com.au/mediapub/ebook/wescat2014np/#1240

Under the Sanyo list for models M10,M20,M50,NX10 it specifies a VBK59 kit

I presume that they will post overseas.

Further down the chat page you talked about SLC30s having slow rewind and fast forward.

Apart from the upper drum friction and reel motor issues I have been finding quite a few with blown reel solenoid fuses.

The brake then is not released so drags on the reels in REW and FFWD.

They can be repaired. If you can't get a replacement fuse, try a 4.7 ohm 1/4 resistor instead.

regards Noel (Betaheaven.com)

Adol
Saturday 18th March 2017
2:36 pm U.K.

adolfo.gonzalezsaez@gmail.com

Hello. I have a Sony Beta c20, from a friend who has gave it to me as a present. I am trying it since this morning. It seems to work fine but the last beta I loaded is not ejecting when I push the button... The light is flashing as if it is stucked inside...

I have opened it and the rotation systems works fine, it loads the film and reads it but when reeling it when I push the eject button, it reels but not ejects... The cassette is inside, with no film loaded and with the light flashing... Is there a way to manually eject the film and try again to load? Any idea to solve this problem if it is more than it seems?

Best regards everyone and thanks in advance for your support!

K Lambert
Friday 17th March 2017
10:31 am U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Dominic;

You may find getting a KIT hard today but not impossible.

There is another way though ,measure each belt (the thickness is 2mm) and then try to obtain each one seperately.

Classic parts used to sell them as kit's and there are numerous companies that's ell belt's one their own.

Mot sure where you reside but the US has many sources for these.

.....Kevin

Dominic
Friday 17th March 2017
9:28 am U.K.

capt_c

I need a belt kit for a Sanyo VTC-M10 Betacord. Does anyone know if these are still available anywhere?

Bjorn
Saturday 11th March 2017
9:51 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

weber 1600

can you e-mail me or message through my facebook page /wwwbmanmeuk with details of teh problem (in English if possible for quicker response) and pictures, I currently am working on 2 broken load mechanisms so may have spare parts.

weber1600
Saturday 11th March 2017
8:44 pm U.K.

alexsport124@hotmail.com

Hola..

Tengo en mi poder Sony sl c9 con problemas en su carga frontal..

He desmontado el mecanismo y los dos piñones que van a cada extremo de la varilla redonda están

en buen estado.. El problema es otro piñón el cual lleva en su parte alta , un tornillo de cruz con

una arandela muy pequeño, que en su extremo está roto ( partido ) ...

Existe alguna posibilidad de reemplazo de este engranaje??

Bjorn
Saturday 11th March 2017
4:08 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

Pumabr, I have worked on one of those before - approx 8 years ago, and from memory, if the servo board is defective, they are not too bad to repair. Sadly, I don't have the schematic which is useful, but not critical for this. If I remember correctly, it is very very similar to the HF950 so you should be able to use some of that manual as a rough guide.

First, tackle the Hall effect by removing that blob of glue, then work your way from there. Most servo problems I deal with are just replacing old capacitors, especially the smaller ones. Rarely do I find a failed IC.

If you can sort that out, then it's not such a bad purchase.

pumabr
Monday 6th March 2017
3:18 am U.K.

marcobrbq@hotmail.com

So expensive? Why do they charge so much for these manuals?

Yes, I just bought the VCR... it seems now that it was a bad option...

Frandid
Saturday 4th March 2017
1:59 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

pumabr :

Unlike the SL-C9 and the HF950 I couldn't find the SL-F90 service manual for free on the internet. I only saw it for sale on 2 sites, 50€ and 100€, very expensive from my point of view. I am not sure; did you finally buy this VCR ?

Dominic
Friday 3rd March 2017
12:48 am U.K.

cap

Hi guys,

I wanted to share something i've discovered the past few months.

Last year about six SL-C30 and SL-C33 machines from various owners passed my workbench.

All had some of the known problems like dry joints, dried out caps in the psu, old greas on the gears, but five of them had another problem.

They all seemed to wind pretty slow in reverse, forward or both. I could also hear sudden drops in the winding speed.

Tape tension didn't seem right sometimes in playback.

After checking the bearing of the spool motor and the pendulum assembly, which seemed to be ok, I noticed a faint soury smell.

It came from the four caps on the spool motor pcb. The four miniature 47uf/16V capacitors (matsushita) started to leak.

All five machines worked fine again after removing the old caps, cleaning the pcb and installing new caps.

Two machines needed repairs on the pcb traces as the electrolytic fluid had started to eat the traces away.

This may apply to other machines with the same motor pcb too.

Dominic

pumabr
Thursday 2nd March 2017
6:32 pm U.K.

marcobrbq@hotmail.com

Thanks for your help Frandid. I'll talk to a specialist to see what can be done.

Is it possible to find the service manuals for this device? Electrical and mechanical scheme?

Stuart
Wednesday 1st March 2017
9:22 am U.K.

rabiacontralamaquina@gmail.com

Thanks for your help Bjorn.

I took the metal casing off and had a look inside and found a screw loose from a previoys service.Anyway when I put it back together and tried a tape again it worked.

jcarron2
Tuesday 28th February 2017
11:05 pm U.K.

jcarron2@gmail.com

Hi,

Need some help, I suspect I have an issue in the chroma area of my SL HF 600 Betamax. During playback of known good tapes, there is a somewhat noticeable yellow "hue" horizontal bar in the picture at about the 1/3 mark, and 2/3 mark straight across the screen, about the width of a finger on a ~25 inch set.. It does not move, and is very consistent...

The rest of the image is OK and clean. If I record a tape on this unit, and play it on another known good Betamax, the same hue appears there, but is much more faint...

Any ideas where to look? Should I just recap the Chroma, and possibly input caps?

thanks,

Jonathan

Bjorn
Tuesday 28th February 2017
5:54 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

Hi Stuart,

sounds like a loading issue. Does the tape even try to insert, or does it drop, then ejects within seconds?

Often cause is down to the rubber belts being worn which are easily replaced. Other causes include worn loading motor, dew detector picking up damp in the machine. However I would first look at the belts to see if they need replacing. Often the top one on the front loading mechanism.

Frandid
Tuesday 28th February 2017
3:19 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

pumabr :

It seems on the video that the servo board is defective. The hall effect sensor might also be defective as the head drum never spins but it's not sure at all. This point is easy to check, difficult to repair for a "non pro" and anyway in this case it wouldn't be the only issue because this never causes the VTR not to play in FF AND RW for at least a few seconds.I own 3 Betamax ( SL-C9 F, SL-HF950ES and SL-T50ME ) and what I can say is that most of the time when you want to have one unit working perfectly you must buy several spares for each model and/or junk units for spares... The problem is that unlike the SL-HF950 for instance this model is not so easy to find... There is one on Ebay : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Sony-Betamax-SL-F90-Video-Cassette-Recorder-/182467768428?hash=item2a7bed306c:g:w0sAAOSw9GhYmG5D but it's impossible to say if it has working parts for yout unit. The first thing I would try is to replace the servo board. Repairing a servoboard is difficult if you are not a pro... Replacing boards is much easier. The problem might also come from the mecanical parts... And I agree with what Bjorn, Kevin etc. already said on this subject.

stuart :

I never saw a Sanyo but I would first check the tape sensors, you'll first have to find the service manual for your unit on the internet, see where they are located and if they work.

Stuart
Tuesday 28th February 2017
6:30 am U.K.

rabiacontralamaquina@gmail.com

Hi,

I just purchased my first ever Beta player today. It's a Sanyo betacord vtc-m20.

I have never owned or even watched anything on beta before. Anyway I have a question and was hoping someone might be able to help me. When I insert a beta tape into the player the cassette symbol flahes red on the display and after about 5 seconds it ejects. I have tried other tapes and it just keeps ejecting it.

Any thoughts or advice would be much appreciated?

pumabr
Monday 27th February 2017
7:12 pm U.K.

marcobrbq@hotmail.com

Hi again!

Finally I got a video with the complete diagnosis of the Sony SL-F90. The device does FF but not REW. And neither does play. The drum does not spin... Well, I think the video is the best way to describe the problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkkVGXESSMw

Is it a serious problem? Will this be repaired?

Frandid
Monday 27th February 2017
2:29 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Thanks Martin, the previous/next buttons are now working again and the Sony SL-T50ME under my TV is happy to be recognised on this page like its two mates SL-C9 F and SL-HF950ES :-)

Bjorn
Saturday 25th February 2017
11:51 am U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

Kevin, thanks again for your suggestion, just to update: I took your advice first before getting more complicated (although I tend to do the complicated first, then find it was a simple problem to my annoyance) Idler tyre worn as thought, plus worn pinch roller. Very simple mechanical problem. I do have a little electrical work to do, but nothing major. Repair completed successfully and watched a movie on it in perfect picture. Just have to fix Sanyo's famous front load problem as the jamming mechanism, although intermittent is frustrating. Front control covers (the plastic button coverings worn through so will have a new one printed and made up to fit. Video is almost restored to factory condition.

nickmugford
Friday 24th February 2017
10:36 pm U.K.

nicholas719@outlook.com

For disposal,3 working umatic video recorders plus one for spares,offers.

Martin
Wednesday 22nd February 2017
2:43 pm U.K.

martin@palsite.com

The previous/next buttons should hopefully now be working correctly regardless of having newest or oldest posts first. Also the T50 model is now recognised as a known model on the PALsite.

Bjorn
Tuesday 21st February 2017
10:09 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

Hi pumabr

It does sound repairable, but the problem could be due to one of many issues. Inadequate toque from the take up spool although unlikely, check for head drum rotation, a lot of Sony's I get in tend to have this problem. Ideally you could do with more information. Is there audio but no picture,does the machine play then stop, by no picture do you mean a blank screen, or lots of noise? Another common problem I find is where people have attempted work on the drum and messed it up either damaging or misaligning the heads.

pumabr
Tuesday 21st February 2017
4:14 am U.K.

marcobrbq@hotmail.com

Hi! I found a Sony SL-F90 for sale for 40€ (plus shipping), but it does not play the tapes. The seller says that the unit turns on, rewinds the tapes, but when it does play, it does not give a picture on the TV. Is there a solution to this problem? Can this be repaired?

Frandid
Saturday 18th February 2017
12:09 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Ogulderen

I forgot this if you want to have the mono sound of your Sony player on both channels of your TV : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/like/172399697330

Frandid
Saturday 18th February 2017
12:03 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Ogulderen

First you have to buy a BNC to RCA adapter for the video signal: https://www.amazon.fr/Adaptateur-bnc-male-rca-femelle/dp/B000S0HTOM then a RCA cable for video and audio if your TV has rca input : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Triple-3-Male-RCA-Composite-Audio-Video-DVD-TV-AV-Cable-1-4M-WT-/291789776168?hash=item43f006a528:g:HT8AAOSw9eVXXFxt , if it has only scart you'll have to buy another adapter https://www.amazon.fr/Bulk-Adaptateur-P%C3%A9ritel-gigogne-femelle/dp/B0017ZH80C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487418870&sr=8-5&keywords=scart+to+rca or a rca to peritel cable : https://www.inkstore.fr/store/logilink-scartkabel-scartstecker-cinchstecker-p-161876.html?gclid=CPTZpt7KmdICFfIW0wodhsQLZA&;gid=direct

I didn't know this model Sony SL-P20CH before, it seems to be one of the very rare Beta players only Sony made, looks a bit like a Sony SL-T20 VTR.

ogulderen
Saturday 18th February 2017
11:13 am U.K.

oggulderen2@gmail.com

Hi everyone,

I have a sony sony cl-p20ch video cassette player. But I don't have any cable to connect TV. I don't know which kind of cable I should use. How should I googling to find correct cable?

Thanks for helping.

Frandid
Friday 17th February 2017
7:57 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Thanks Martin, I didn't notice that "Show oldest posts first" was working !

As you are an administrator I will also mention the fact that writing " SL-T50ME " doesn't make its iconic picture appear on left of the chat page unlike other models references, and that the word "secam" almost never appear on the site yet most of european Sony beta machines were available in pal/secam or secam only versions bearing the suffix "F" instead of UB ES, E etc... Aaaaah, these french people always complaining ... ;-) ;-) ;-)

Seriously this is a great site and a real reference for all european Betamax including secam models as there is no "Betamax SECAMsite" and anyway secam models are clones to the pal models unlike US ntsc models.

Martin
Friday 17th February 2017
4:11 pm U.K.

martin@palsite.com

Yes you are right, there is a problem with the "previous" button. If you switch to "Show oldest posts first" it should work though. I will look into it.

Frandid
Friday 17th February 2017
3:31 pm U.K.

duckstar@free.fr

Hi everybody.

Did you notice that the "previons" button on this chat page doesn't work anymore, so we can't see older posts unless we've made bookmarks... is it maintenance ?

Does anyone know a special antistatic fluid that could be sprayed on the Beta head drums? I have now experienced this problem of "line tearing" due to dirt (from 33 years old tapes) sticked on the upper and lower head drum on my SL-C9 ,SL-HF950 and it will probably happen soon on my SL-T50ME. I don't use this last one often as it it my favourite, all in all I think it is the best picture for old tapes, yet drop out compensation is not as good as on the SL-HF950 and very far from the SL-C9, so I keep my SL-T50ME only for most of my Beta to digital transfers, if the tape is not too damaged and doesn't need heavy drop out compensation picture has outstanding pure colors. The SL-C9 is also great with uncredible contrast and was my favourite for a long time.

Does anybody have a link for a new replacement head disk for the SL-T50ME ?? Mine is still working OK at normal speeds, but at high speed the white bars are thicker than on my C9 and SL-HF950, it may indicate the heads starting to wear, although it maybe normal for this model as it is a multi-standard...? Is true that it is the same head disk as for the SL-C9 ? ?

Regards.

jcarron2
Friday 17th February 2017
3:25 pm U.K.

jcarron2@gmail.com

Hi,

I managed to get some epoxy to stick to the nylon gear (3-684-163-01), used a kind of mold to form the gear teeth, which turned out way better than I was expecting. It seems pretty tough, however I’m not sure for how long. The reason is the tape loading mechanism has *a lot* of stress placed on it.

When I load a tape I observe that when a tape is inserted, the servo motor runs to lower the tape into the machine, as expected. However after the tape is lowered, the motor still has power applied for a brief moment. I would have expected the power to the motor would be cut right after the tape_down switch is triggered but that doesn’t seem to be the case, there is a slight “delay” (say 0.5 seconds before I see the belt slack off). As a test to verify the switches, if I trigger the load_tape switch and allow the mechanism to drop down, it will continue to run and apply power to the servo load motor until I trigger the switch tape_loaded switch which is triggered by the actual cassette, when I poke the switch with my finger, a moment later the servo motor stops, and the unit proceeds to the next step to thread the tape around the video head drum.

For now I’ve backed off the tension so the yellow belt can slip the 2-3 teeth instead of it really cranking down on the tape load mechanism, and possibly breaking that damn gear again.

To me it’s working as designed, unless a capacitor has gone bad, and the timing is off with respect to when it should advance cut power and trigger the solenoid to advance to the next stage, load tape around the video drum…

If I am indeed correct, I’m not sure why this was designed this way, but I can see the area where the worm gear drive is attached kind of twist up from the tension… The spring at the bottom of the worm gear is so strong that it doesn’t allow the worm gear to “slip” against the gear it meshes with… if that did slip, then maybe those would just eventually strip anyways.

In either case it seems to me if I leave it this way, it will be very short lived again. I am contemplating putting a current limiting resistor where J144 is, inline with the servo motor to try and reduce some of the torque from the motor, and perhaps save some wear and tear on the old mechanism which has so many NLA parts.

BTW I’m still looking for a replacement 3-684-163-01 Gear, Driving Arm gear, but any of the stores I’ve checked don’t have any instock, it seems that what little stock was left is totally gone now.

Jonathan

Bjorn
Monday 13th February 2017
5:55 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

Thanks Kevin, yes that makes sense, I too have seen m fair share of poor work especially on Sanyo's. Worst, although not on this machine, involved using elastic bands instead of belts and in 1 case a cable tie. Misaligned heads, where someone has attempted to work on them but not put back together again properly, one machine had the upper drum too tight, sadly damaging the head themselves virtually writing off the machine.

Anyway, I have belts and idler wheels on the way so should have this Beta back up and running by the weekend.

K lambert
Sunday 12th February 2017
4:26 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Bjorn:

I would get all the mechanicals perfect before attempting to adjust anything first.

It could be the caps on the servo board, but I have found if this is so you loose speed or tracking capability and most common the ability to stabalize the noise bars during search modes.

Make sure the capstan bearings have a tiny drop of oil top and bottom and that the magnet is not chafing the board (i have seen that a couple of times but rare on a Sanyo).

Also check the back tension which should be 150 on a torque meter.

Make sure too the tape is moving nicely through the guides and they have not been opened (like I've seen so many times) by numpties who think doing this will help it play better!!!

Good luck......................Kevin

Mike Davison
Sunday 12th February 2017
10:51 am U.K.

mike@g1sbn.freeserve.co.uk

I changed the head disk in my 1985 SL-HF100UB some 20 years ago due to bad HiFi audio using the disk for the SL-HF100P but about 3 months ago, the video failed(HiFi audio still fine). I searched on the internet for 2 months in vain but then the search became more fruitful and the EXACT DSR49R head was found on a just expired eBay sale which had no takers. Email between myself and the seller,in Portugal, got the item relisted as a buy-it-now and I snapped it up. The disk is now fitted and the machine performing as good as new. The faulty disk appears to have an open circuit video head with the possible ends of the break visible under a magnifying glass.

Bjorn
Saturday 11th February 2017
5:57 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

NotTheMessiah how did you get on with your C30? I have literally gone through the schematics and can't find another solution apart from that IC, oh and some caps on the video board. I used to have an F30 that did that and no matter what we did, it just wouldn't go away, turned out to be a small issue in the drum. Remember the "hall effect"? After we removed that blob of glue, and the heads started to rotate again, we failed to notice some interference coming from that area, small static shock from the drum eventually got us there, but only after a lot of other work. May of may not have been related to the issue, but coincidentally the picture noise stopped. Problem is that I did so much on that machine I completely lost track of where the actual fault was. lol

If you have the diagram handy, check every component along the line from video head to output. Otherwise, invest in an oscilloscope, I use one of those cheap USB ones from china - well used to as it doesn't run on Windows 10 so have to keep a laptop on XP. They're relatively cheap, and seem to do the job although no match for a real one.

I still prefer to use CRT screen for Betas, some LCDs tend to be pretty bad with Component connections, often the picture sharpness too high.

Bjorn
Saturday 11th February 2017
5:45 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

Nearly forgot, on my SL-C9 still in a bit of a bind. Replaced IC520, 521, D515, and a few caps but still no sound. Stereo light comes on so the audio head must be working although I haven't checked properly. It's probably something obvious I'm missing, but any ideas?

Bjorn
Saturday 11th February 2017
5:37 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

Just need a second opinion on this one,

On a Sanyo VTC6500 (I haven't worked on this model before) I have playback at normal speed, but picture sluggish and unstable behaving as though the tape is playing at slow speed (stable - jumpy - stable - jumpy) I just fixed a Sony C6 with this issue which was down to worn belts and faulty servo causing the heads to spin on/off/on causing the same picture noise & stability.

Whilst waiting for new idler tyres, should I also be looking at the servo board for dried caps?

Miguel
Friday 10th February 2017
9:13 am U.K.

miguelmaldonado77@gmail.com

Many thanks!!!!

I will try to change the capacitors.

K lambert
Thursday 9th February 2017
12:34 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Miguel:

Check the small blue Sanyo capacitors on the servo board (the board situated on it's side in the middle).

....Kevin

Miguel
Wednesday 8th February 2017
9:34 pm U.K.

miguelmaldonado77@gmail.com

Hello, I need help. I have a Betacord Sanyo VTR 5000 and it plays to double speed audio and video. Anyone knows What is happen?

K lambert
Wednesday 8th February 2017
8:55 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

David and NickMugford:

Your on the wrong page this page is for Betamax NOT Betacam.

Look to the top left and go to the correct page where you will find the a appropriate assistance.

Nick phipps
Wednesday 8th February 2017
4:20 pm U.K.

Nhckphipps@gmail.com

Hi guys wondering if ive been ripped off .but I bought a rmt 425 remote for my hf950. apparently you can change the ir code in the fb but I don't know what a fb is lol.it was a good price and is identical in every way to the rmt 232 remote made for hf950 mk2 but I have the mk1 ann help much appreciated.and thanks again kev for everything you have done on my hf950 you are the man that can.and very genuine repairer also

david Anthonyxd_anthony@yahoo.co.uk
Wednesday 8th February 2017
3:47 am U.K.

xd-anthony@yahoo.co.uk

Sony U-Matic VO-2860P On Play mode it starts, pinch roller makes contact runs a few seconds and cuts out. Help

nickmugford
Tuesday 7th February 2017
2:38 am U.K.

nicholas719@outlook.com

Hi,does anybody how the speed of betacam video recorders is determined as i wish to slow the transports down so as to get more recording time out of a cassette,i'm of the impression that the the machine chops the frequency of the mains supply as the uk/us

models have differing speeds,i'm not well up on digital circuity.

Wanted...power supply for sony DSR-DR1000ap video disc recorder or circuit,my recorders

power supply exploded like a minature atom bomb.Tks

K Lambert
Monday 6th February 2017
3:10 pm U.K.

kn2000@talktalk.net

Gab:

I too have one of these manual focus Betamovies and I found it handy to zoom in focus and then every time you zoom out it stays in focus. Unless you can see a clear edge to something to know whether it's really clearly focused it is tricky.

Boris:

Is the top of the head disc hard to move when the play light is illuminated ONLY, and then spin freely when the play light is off

....Kevin ?

NotTheMessiah
Sunday 5th February 2017
10:20 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

There are a few faults that might cause that listed here: http://www.palsite.com/slc9tech.html

Another thing to check is the clutch/pully for the take up. In some models it can seize up. Simple enough to dissasemble to clean and lubricate.

Boris
Sunday 5th February 2017
10:14 pm U.K.

blazarov@mac.com

Hello everyone

I have an old Sony SL-C9 with an issue, it stops playing after 2 or 3 seconds. Can anyone tell me the problem and how to fix it.

Thanks

Gab
Sunday 5th February 2017
12:38 pm U.K.

g.raciti@gmail.com

Hello all,

Just looking for some advice. I recently acquired a Sony BMC-100 (Australian version of the BMC-110 I believe).

Just wondering if anyone has any advice on getting images in focus and specifically any tricks for setting the correction 'ring'. I'm finding that despite getting great sharp focus through the viewfinder it rarely matches the actual recording. I understand it's a trial and error thing but when shooting outdoors it's very easy to knock the ring just a touch off its perfect position and come home with a bunch of blurry footage. So just wondering if anyone has any tips for resetting this on the go.

Cheers!

Keep beta alive! :D

NotTheMessiah
Saturday 4th February 2017
10:07 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

Hi Bjorn, thanks for the advice.

I've given eveything on ss-16 a tweak but it only helped so far. I did today find some caps that have been leaking both there and near dl-001 on yc-25. I recapped most of ss-16 and suspect ones near dl-001, which helped a little but I'm still seeing a lot of noise. I'm beginning to suspect delay line dl-001 might be failing but I don't have a spare. Tomorrow I'll finish recapping ss-16 and might do all of yc-25 too and report back.

I should really invest in a scope and learn how to do an alignment properly as I'm running blind a little here when tweaking things.

Bjorn
Saturday 4th February 2017
12:21 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

Hi NotTheMessiah it looks like you've covered everything I would have looked at. Especially SS-16 board (servo) which circuits did you make adjustments to? There are 4 - Drum Speed, Drum Phase, Capstan Speed, Capstan Phase. I would have suspected Drum speed and/or Drum phase. Check IC301 also IC304 although these seldom fail.

Bjorn
Saturday 4th February 2017
12:03 pm U.K.

bjorn@bman.me.uk

Hi Guys, I came back in to servicing Beta's this year after a shortish absence. I'm having a little trouble diagnosing a C9 which has left me baffled. So far on this machine, I've repaired the DC-DC CD09 module, and also repaired the front load assembly. I can't get any sound during playback, initialy was just noise but now no sound. Replaced D515 and checked IC520, IC521 which I'm not sure about so have replacements on order. Any ideas? I haven't touched a C9 since 2011 and worked on AM-1 since 2004 so a little rusty.

NotTheMessiah
Friday 3rd February 2017
8:58 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

Nick... cheeky reposting eh :p

NotTheMessiah
Friday 3rd February 2017
6:34 pm U.K.

s.watts284@yahoo.co.uk

Hi guys,

So I've hit a bit of a wall with the SL-C30. I'm not having a lot of joy in cleaning up the picture and would appreciate some advice!

The picture has a great deal of noise, more than I would consider normal. See here: https://i.imgsafe.org/4c9de717a5.jpg

Areas most affected tend to be edges but the picture is in general quite noisy as can be seen. It almost looks like the odd and even fields aren't lining up correctly along with other noise. I'm not sure what could be causing this. In fact yesterday I noticed a moment when the odd and even fields were hugely out of sync, ie odd fields were lagging behind the even fields by around half the display width. This only lasted a few seconds though.

I've so far tried the following:

Everything has had a good clean and where applicable lubrication.

*Recapped the power supply

*Servo adjustment, this helped a little especially with stability of still images.

*New video heads - no difference

*Recapped input area of head amp - no difference

Would any resident experts or ex-technicians/service people have any tips?

Many thanks!

Simon

Nick phipps
Friday 3rd February 2017
5:11 pm U.K.

Nhckphipps@gmail.com

Hi guys wondering if ive been ripped off .but I bought a rmt 425 remote for my hf950. apparently you can change the ir code in the fb but I don't know what a fb is lol.it was a good price and is identical in every way to the rmt 232 remote made for hf950 mk2 but I have the mk1 ann help much appreciated.and thanks again kev for everything you have done on my hf950 you are the man that can.and very genuine repairer also

Martin
Thursday 2nd February 2017
2:44 pm U.K.

martin@palsite.com

I've made some minor tweaks to improve the layout on smartphones.

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