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Rich
Thursday 26th December 2019
5:27 pm U.K.

Merry Christmas to you, Kev, and everyone else who's been helping me this year with advice and suggestions to keep these wonderful vcrs going.

Cheers all,

Rich.

K Lambert
Wednesday 25th December 2019
12:08 pm U.K.

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MERRY CHRISTMAS Beta fans/users!

Hope 2020 brings us just as much pleasure.........

.......Kev

Noel Higgins
Tuesday 24th December 2019
9:55 pm U.K.

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Rich,

That's good news about the DC/DC being repaired. It is not hard to upgrade the Mk1. Even if you don't add the protection circuit for the driver transistor the case can have ventilation holes added to assist cooling. The heat affects capacitor and component aging and also efficient operation.

regards Noel

P.S. - Merry Christmas to all the Palsite and chat page users from Australia "down under".

Rich
Sunday 22nd December 2019
5:45 pm U.K.

Hi all

Just an update on my faulty DC-DC converter that failed in my C9.

I removed it but couldn't get it open so I sent it off to be repaired.

Apparently it was drawing 128mA. The electrolytics and polyester caps were changed (the transistor and transformer were both ok) and it's now drawing 60mA and working superbly. It's a Mk1 version converter.

Thanks all and have a very Happy Christmas!

Rich.

Frandid
Monday 16th December 2019
7:36 pm U.K.

Marco, alchool is not very good for pinch rollers, it can even get things worse. There is a miracle product for restoring pinch rollers, it is called Rubber Renue, from MG Chemicals, check Ebay.

Rich
Monday 16th December 2019
12:02 pm U.K.

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Hi Noel,

Thanks for that information!

It would seem they are very tricky to get open.

I'll report back when/if I can get it open to repair it.

Thanks again,

Rich.

Noel Higgins
Monday 16th December 2019
1:18 am U.K.

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Rich,

I have found that the easiest way to get the cap off the DC/DC is to mount it in a vice with the CAP (leg side)facing up and use a heat gun to melt the solder and flip the cap off as soon as you can when the solder melts because you dont want to cook the circuit board. Even then some of the leg pins may move a bit and need to be re-seated so they line up with holes in the motherboard after repair.

I have managed to open one "cold" by running a stanley knife around the sides of the cap in the soldered gap, but you need to be really careful that you don't cut yourself if you slip and/ or the blade breaks. Good luck!

regards Noel

Marco
Friday 13th December 2019
9:55 pm U.K.

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K lambert:

Thanks for the advice!

I have a (british!) tape with a recording that is crystal clear, and I often use it as "benchmark", if it plays ok then my vcr is ok, I'll use a similar one for cleaning the heads!

I've played 10/15 whole tapes since that cleaning, and it doesn't seems to get any better...it isn't unusable at all, it's just difficult to obtain a perfect tracking, and it loses it easily. Can it be something related to tape alignment I can try to adjust?

Thanks for your patience!!

Marco

Rich
Thursday 12th December 2019
4:54 pm U.K.

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Hi all,

Has anyone got a working DC-DC converter for the C9 for sale please? I've seen a newly designed version on Ebay but the seller wants nearly 90 for it!!! I love my C9, but not that much......

I've not got the tools to open my defective one. Apparently I need A LOT of heat to get the solder to melt so the metal cans can come apart.

Thanks in advance

Rich.

K Lambert
Wednesday 11th December 2019
5:58 pm U.K.

Marco:

Well done on the former but it does sound like you 'may' have damage the heads when cleaning them.

I HOPE I'm wrong.

They may be blocked but I wouldn't try cleaning them anymore just in case. I always find using a known good tape and letting it play and reverse searching at intervals cleans them well too.

It also takes away the risk of damage.

.......Kevin

Marco
Monday 9th December 2019
9:55 pm U.K.

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Hi Kevin!

I somehow managed to repair the back tension arm! I found and replaced the small metal piece I lost, then I moved the arm spring. As you said tension was too high maybe, so I tried to move the spring to one tooth more towards the feed spool (the last one) and now picture is very very stable!

There is still a minor issue with my Beta...after a (too) deep head cleaning with iso alcohol and chamois tracking has become hard to adjust properly.

It may be unrelated, but before the cleaning, the middle position was good for almost every tape, now I have to adjust it for every tape and it's very hard to get a perfect result. In the minimum and maximum positions I even get scrambled colours now, instead of just streaks. Is there something that can be adjusted?

Marco

K lambert
Sunday 8th December 2019
1:13 am U.K.

Marco:

THAT was the back tension arm you've now damaged.

You really need the Sony SLC003 front and back tape tension cassette to check things properly.

There is a felt band that is used for the back tesnon.

You can more a tiny spring at the top of the back arm but I always do it with the felt band. Some models you can adjust this through and access hole, so preventing the reel deck from being removed to do this. Like I said though that tape is essential.

..............Kevin

Marco
Thursday 5th December 2019
11:05 pm U.K.

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Hi everybody!

I tried to follow your advices and, clumsy me, I damaged something!

First of all I tried checking the pinch roller...a bit shiny (shows a more polished band, where the tape slides), but not so hard...took it off, washed it with washing up fluid, I haven't got a Dremel for refurbish its surface, mounted it back.

Then, cleaning the rest of the tape path, I found a bit of a little metal "pole" (don't know its name) hanging from a black plastic arm hinged from below to somewhere near feeding spool motor with some springs holding it. That assembly looked like wrongly positioned because in play it wrinkled a bit the tape on the top, so i tried to lower the little pole and give more room for the tape on top, and that's when it broke, plastic holding it was maybe cooked and crumbled with a little touch. I'm with the black plastic arm alone now, since the metal part fell down and I can't find it... Tape plays better than before now, so I think it did actually cause some trouble, but it seems to have some tracking problems...sometimes, especially in play right after some search, picture spins up-down a couple of times before tracking properly. I tried to replace the metallic part with a centimeter and half from a thick paperclip, it seems to hold in place firmly but picture isn't at its best, and I'm afraid it can cause some static buildup as it's not the correct material...

What is that plastic arm there for? What damage can it do running with just plastic and no metal needle? How can I restore its functions? These and many other questions in the next episode of "damaging a Betamax when trying to repair it"!

Cheers

Marco from Italy

Marco
Monday 2nd December 2019
4:49 pm U.K.

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Thank you both K Lambert and Rich!

I'm going to check both things!

I've already watched the pinch roller restoration tutorial but never been brave enough to do that, only cleaned it with a q-tip and alcohol, but it's time to try and restore it properly!

How can I slightly adjust the tape back tension?

Thanks a lot!

Marco

K lambert
Monday 2nd December 2019
4:41 pm U.K.

Marco:

It sounds like you either have a slightly too high back tension setting. The back tension band needs a one direction smoothing ,or The tape spools are tight.

This was common on light grey Sony tape shells from around 1985.The spool colour was a pale yellow.

The wiggle ,distortion you mention is the tape vibrating as it goes over the head drum down to one of the for mentioned reasons above. This would also explain why everything is fine during search and pause modes.

..Kevin

Rich
Monday 2nd December 2019
10:37 am U.K.

David,

That looks like a Sony made cassette. I'm sure I have some 'Extra High Grade' (or whatever they call them), it looks a bit like a Pro-X tape for the SL-HF950.

Marco,

Your problem sounds like it could be a worn/misshapen pinch roller. The reason you're getting a clear picture in pause mode is that the pinch roller doesn't turn when pause is pressed. Take a look at it and if it's shiny and hard then you'll ideally need a replacement. Another forum member here, Noel, has recorded a short video on how to restore a hard/shiny pinch roller, look in the repair section of this website, I think the video is there somewhere.

Let us know the outcome of it!

Cheers

Rich.

Marco
Thursday 28th November 2019
7:13 pm U.K.

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Yes David, looks like a TDK one, they used to make this "large window" model!

Hi everyone!

I'm having some trouble with my SL-C40 and i don't know what to check!

From time to time, picture on "play" looks wiggly from left to right at regular intervals. Picture crystal clear and steady in pause and ff/rew modes...

The wiggling comes with a slight rhytmic whirry sound from the motor I think...what can it be?

Cheers

Marco from Italy

DAVID BRUNNER
Tuesday 26th November 2019
11:05 pm U.K.

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This tape is a normal Betamax?

http://www.mediafire.com/view/nnt2xxokekvsn7f/Tape.jpg/file

K Lambert
Wednesday 20th November 2019
12:00 pm U.K.

Nas Khan.

E-bay will be your only hope with those as many parts are out of production now and have been for some time.

.Kevin

nas khan
Wednesday 20th November 2019
12:37 am U.K.

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seeking this part can you assist?

BETAMAX PINCH ROLLER...​Manufacturer Sony Replacement Parts Part Number 3-669-438-11 Description Guide Roller #9

for sony betamax video cassette recorder model #sl 2305.

thanks!

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