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Saturday 16th February 2019
6:04 pm U.K.

[email protected]


Just sent you an email for that SS11 board you need.

All the best,


Wednesday 13th February 2019
12:15 pm U.K.

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Hi Betafans,

As I was restoring my beloved SL-C9ES, the power supply decided to put a nice 12V on the 5V line.

This let the smoke out of the System Control Board CPU IC602 and possibly others.

So now I am looking for a replacement System control board SS-11. Would make me really happy to find one as I intend to keep this VCR forever...


Wednesday 13th February 2019
2:57 am U.K.

Hi Jeff old bean and all the other Beta beans still out there;


Well for posterity's sake, here we go. The two line problem I had was basically the same as in this other thread I found on the net, that had no final solution to it (as usual!). Look at pictures 5 and 6 below on those listings (given that the top picture at the beginning of the listings is number 1);


Picture 5 shows the ca. bigger line I had on my screen and then there was a thinner line also running horizontally across the screen a little above the bigger line on my unit!

OK, and the solution was to really and I mean really clean the tape path. The tape path underneath adjusting plates 2 and 3-1 (see service manual) on the drum assembly is really hard to get to. And I think that is where the tape had its final problem in my "95% fix", in my listing just before this one! And one really had to look out for those rotating heads, as you do not want to touch them when cleaning the drum assembly. That a NO NO!!!

Also a big part of the solution was to adjust Guide no. 1 (pin. 1) in the tape path. This is the tension regulating lever assembly. It needs to be ca. center to the "shuttle guide track" when in operation (play mode). You adjust it with the adjustment screw in the chassis hole by the left supply reel. You will need the service manual to do this properly!

My next step if the cleaning had not worked, would have been to tighten the spring to the regulating lever assembly. But no need for that, as I now have two fully functioning SL-HF950s.

This the "bad" SL-HF950 unit is less worn than my old "good" SL-HF950 unit. So now its officially my better unit. And just think about it. It was sold to me on ebay as a "for parts only" unit! But then again I had to fix a broken loading mechanism (LS gear assembly), clean it, grease it, oil it and contact spray it with Deoxit D5 and apply Deoxit D100L (thanks 12voltvids) literally all over the place! But that's another story! :/

I used 100% Isopropanol (Isopropanolum) for cleaning. Chamois for the rotating heads and cotton buds for the guides, drum assembly etc.. The pinch roller is another story, there I use a special rubber roller cleaner and cotton buds as Isopropanol is not a good long time option for rubber as the rubber can crack with time if its not rejuvenated properly!!!

And finally. Come to think of it, all these postings of mine started out with a little CV001 Trimmer Capacitor quick fault fix for the SL-HF100 I saw on this wonderful Betamax Palsite. And now I got one SL-HF100 and two SL-HF950 fully functioning units.

All is good in my Betamax world right now!!! :)

Thank´s for now!


Monday 11th February 2019
6:36 pm U.K.

Hi Jeff and other Betamax brethren out there

Just for a update. I scrapped the "QFF" as it is obviously a very flawed listing and has "obviously" nothing to do with my problem? :/

So back to just fixing the "two line picture" problem at hand. Swapped first the YC-40 board and then the RP-31 board from my "Good" SL-HF950 to the "Bad" unit. No change! So back to the threading mechanism and heads with a magnifying glass. Whallah I think Ive found a solution, sort of. I found out that tinkering with pin 1 of the threading system made the picture better (or worse). Looked at the Service manual and started the "tension procedure" involving the "screw in the hole" (OK, OK!!!)at the front end of the "skate transport". Fine tuning this with the help of the service manual got the problem solved....nearly! The upper line went away completely but the lower one about 95%. There is still a slight 5% line you can see if you look for it, and you do knowing about its there.

But now the plot thickens. As Ive been using a L750 tape, I then inserted a ca 30min Beta hi-fi test tape. Both the "picture problem lines" reemerged! But as before could then again be calibrated away as with the L750 tape. But not with the same setting? I think I will really and truly clean the tape path again and see if its "friction" in the tape path thats causing this last "extra mile" of trouble Im experiencing right now! Until then argh!!!

Any suggestions from you "beta experts" out there?


Friday 8th February 2019
6:49 pm U.K.

Hi Jeff;

OK no problem! I will find the solution to my problem, even thouhg I dont have a Scope!

But to finish the QFF issue, as far as we can.

Regarding, "Connect the 4.7uh o R772 (not C803 side) (RP31 board)"

I would think this means the other end of the 4,7uh should go on the far side of R772 from C803! Hence implying signal path to pin 5 of IC701! Hope we can agree on that interpitation?

Why the lone "o"? An error typing that was ment to be a "to" or "on"? And why mention C803 at all is a mistery to me?



Friday 8th February 2019
12:39 pm U.K.

Hi Sig,

This is difficut to explain in words, but here we go.

When connecting components to one another.

It is sometimes necessary to know which end of the component in question.

One needs to connect to.

IE (not C803) means do not connect to the end of C803.

Which in terms of IC705 means Pin 1.

Then via the 22pf to ground.

However as you have pointed out.

And I have mistaken R722 For R772.

But in the QFF, as you have stated it does mention C803.

So I first looked on the diagram for C803.

The QFF needs clarification

As For Posterity's Sake.

And the Reputation of the Palsite Reputation.

That isn't my responsibility.

Maybe the Keeper of the Tech Records.

Maybe able to throw some light on this issue.

Getting back to your Problem.

If you have a Scope, and having put back the Head amplifier unit.

From the Diagrams.

I would pick up on one of the Connectors.

The amplified output from the replay heads.

To see if this Line tearing can be seen in the video sig.

Most problems with VCRs are Mechanical or component ageing, or failure.

Head issues are usually brought about by incorrect Head cleaning.

Hope you can make sense of this Rambling, oldbean.


Friday 8th February 2019
1:53 am U.K.

Hi Jeff;

Back to the drawing board please! I was looking at the RP-31 board and the service manual and something does not compute with your analyses of the sony "quick fault fix" (=QFF) in question?

R772 mentioned in the QFF that the 4,7uh needs to be associated with, connects (via R734) to the 5th pin of IC701!

The RP-31 board and service manual reveal pin 1 of the IC705 goes straight to R722 and L755 (they are in parallel). Pin 2 and 3 on the IC705 then connect to C803. None of these are mentioned in the QFF apart from the C803 being used as a orientation quote!

Why mention R772 in the QFF if it basically does not matter in your analyses? R772 is also basically the only "original item" on the RP-31 board mentioned in the QFF, apart from the fore mentioned C803 (directional quote item)?

Jeff you do not mention R772 at all in your analyses of the QFF???

Event though Im starting to think the QFF is likely to have nothing to do with my SL-HF 950 problem, I think this very obscure QFF listing for the SL-HF950 needs to be addressed for posterity's sake. After all the Betamax palsite has a reputation to uphold. Dont you think Jeff?


Thursday 7th February 2019
3:11 am U.K.

Hi Jeff

Sorry about the "22ohm" misprint, your right it was naturally 22pf. Maybe the HF-950 alleged "head clog" is contagious? :(

Well anyway I am going to perform the "quick fault fix" operation as soon as I get the 33uh in house next week and we will see if the patient gets better? If not I agree this could most likely be a "heads" problem, even though I have cleaned the head a few times now with 100% Isopropanolum! But these clogs can sometimes as you should know be darn stubborn! But then again I am too.

Until next week then?

PS: I love 12voltvids!

Thanks Jeff


Wednesday 6th February 2019
8:47 pm U.K.

Hi, again Sig.

I have never seen this fault that you are talking about.

Also as previously stated.

I haven't done any repairs to beta's for a very long time.

I would always follow the manufactures instructions.

So fit all the components.

However you are now quoting 22 Ohms not 22pf.

Once you have them fitted correctly, see what the result is.

Have you ever watched Dave (12voltvid) guy on Youtube?

He says that head clogs.

Should be cleaned by offering the middle of your thumb nail.

To the edge of the head drum to clean a head clog.

Do not press, just offer.

He is very knowledgeable on VCR repairs.

Also are Noel and Kev.

Good luck with you repair.

Wednesday 6th February 2019
5:00 pm U.K.

Hi Jeff;

Good to hear from you again. Your are now my offical pal on PALsite! :/

Well Ive opened the RP31 "can". I forgot how tedious it is to get it out. Especially the connectors top and bottom, but thats another story!

I am wondering if you think this "quick fault fix" we are talking about has anything to do with the two horizontal streaks problem I have straight across my screen from my HF950 unit. One streak is obvious and the other just visible? The picture above and below these tearing lines also seems to be mostly intact and in sync with each other! The quick fault section talkes about a handful of lines etc., not quite the same? What do you think Jeff?

I got the 4,7uh and 22ohm for the RP31 but could not find the 33uh for the YC-40, but I can get that later. Do you think its OK to connect just the RP31 and see what happens or will I also need the 33uh in place on the YC-40?

Also if this "quick fault fix" is not the solution to my problem, will it make any dif. if I leave it in the unit. Or do I need to unsolder everything?

I look forward to getting your input on these philasophical Betamax questions! :)


Wednesday 6th February 2019
4:00 pm U.K.

Sig, oldbean.

I have loaned out my 950 Manual.

But have acquired from the net a copy.

This mod done on the RP31 Board. A

Appears to apply to IC705.

Put one end of the 4.7uh coil to pin1.

Put the other end in series with the 22pf, to Ground.

According to the drawing there is already,L775,across C803.

You can check this, by tracing it out on the Copper side of the board.

Once you have it out of it's can.

Hope this helps you.


Tuesday 5th February 2019
1:51 pm U.K.

Hi All

As I was on such a good "Betamax roll", having fixed the SL-HF100 and the SL-HF950 I decided to try to fix my "for parts only SL-HF950 unit" also (if possible?). I cleaned it all up (very very dirty!), lubricated it (very dry!), fixed the loading gear mechanism (was broken in parts). Well to cut a long story short everything works fine now, except for one big problem! There are two horizontal lines tearing right across the middle of the screen. One obvious "thread like" black and white one and another bearly visible one a few cm above it. Othervise the picture is just fine with good colour and detail! Im thinking its a tension issue with the "tape guide path"? But then I saw on this site in the quick fault section the following;

"Line tearing - visible on playback Line tearing can be seen on playback. ie a handful of lines in the middle of the picture appear right shifted slightly.

Sony has produced the following mod for this fault.

You will need:

1 x 4.7uh

1 x 22pF

1 x 33uh

1. Connect the 4.7uh o R772 (not C803 side) (RP31 board)

2. Connect other side to 22pF.

3. Connect other side of 22pF to ground.

4. connect 33uh in parallel with R807 YC-40 board)"

Could this be the fault in question? But the above "solution" is lacking some detail. Guess the 4.7uh & 33uh are inductors and 22pf a ceramic capacitor? But why the C803 quote as its at the other end of the RP31 board and nowhere near the R772? Maybe its just a general direction from the R772 quote? Anyway as I understand the discription, the far side of the R772 (from the C803!) needs to be connected in series to the 4,7uh (one end), the 4,7uh (other end) to the 22pf (one side), and finally the 22pf (other side)to ground? Hope Im not misunderstanding this? Well I am hoping that Jeff or some other betamax expert on this site can shed a light on this whole matter?


David Grant
Monday 4th February 2019
7:13 pm U.K.

[email protected]

hi to Gangey twhat you are seeing on your F1 when playing tapes a lot can depend on the condition of the VCR that they were taped on it also depends on storage tapes can be affected by age but I have at least 100 that were taped between 1985 and 1992 they were recorded on a sony C7 and a sanyo vtc 9300 they look and play back very well on soony C9 and both sound and picture look and sound good I have recorded stuff using a early sky plus box and play back on a Sharp Aquos 37 LCD Tv and I think what I can see is about as good that can be expected but the C9 has been serviced and set up properly and the heads are good I also have 2 sanyo VTC9300 - that have had very little use I fitted new belts and they work very well for a 40 year old machine

Sunday 3rd February 2019
7:52 pm U.K.

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Going through my old tapes in recently purchased F1

Some play perfectly and some have noise and top bend and lines across. Stangely though when I adjust tracking it seems to have no effect on picture.

I think because some tapes play perfectly it proves that machine and heads are fine. Old tapes were used in C7 . C5 , C6 and Sanyo 9300 / 5000 back in the 80's and 90's.

Is this kind of thing normal? Do tapes loose their quality over time?

Tuesday 29th January 2019
10:20 pm U.K.

Hi Jeff!

ITS FIXED!!! :) Turns out it was the AFC OFFSET. RV7 and especially RV6 had to be slightly adjusted to get the colour 100% right. I was checking the signal path on the yc-40 video board when I saw that the RV6 had been marked with a colour pen marking on its yellow top. I knew this must have been done sometimes before I bought it in the 1980s (in London). So I checked it out and "wallah" success! The dreaded CV001 and RV6 must obviously be synchronized to get the colour signal 100% right. OK now I have two working YC-40 boards! Which to choose now? One is only PAL but the other a PAL/SECAM board. Hummm which has the better picture quality? Which would you think Jeff. Guess we will soon find out! ;)

Thanks again Jeff for your interest in this matter!


Tuesday 29th January 2019
8:40 pm U.K.

Erin20[email protected]

Hello, I am looking for a Betamax Sony SL-T7ME wiring diagram. Does anyone know where I might find/buy one? Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you!

Tuesday 29th January 2019
5:08 pm U.K.

Hi Jeff

Well the problem is that the unit starts out OK with a very good colour picture for ca 1 min but then starts a strange cycle? On a ca 5 seconds interval I get a good colour picture but then the other ca 4 seconds these light blue streaks appear with other "colour noise distortions" in the picture. Appart from the streaks and colour distortion you could say that the picture was more b/w than colour. Its like the trimmer is suddenly lacking "colour signal strength"! You could also say it was like looking at a picture from a colour printer that was running out of colour ink, but not quite. Then you also get streaks and colour distortion on a more b/w picture than a coloured one!

Also when I turn the unit off and on again, I get a very good colour picture again but then the vicious cycle starts! Turning the trimmer screw only gives you a b/w picture or this colour problem and no other variation! Its the same with the trimmer on the HF100, there you get 100% coulour or a b/w picture when turning the screw. I thought there would be more coulour variations when turning the screw, but its basically on or off with the trimmer?

PS: I have the Service manual from the net, incl slightly out of focus schematics of the unit. Its often very hard to read values on these schematics, otherwise their OK for chasing signal paths etc!

At the time I changed out all the electrolytic capacitors on the board, so those are "new"!

Tuesday 29th January 2019
3:08 pm U.K.

Hi Sig,

It has bean Many Many years since I have had to work on my brothers Machines.

One 950 had a B/W problem.

It was an intermittent one.

Once the colour returned.

It could have been months before it went off again.

And couldn't be induced back again.

However I found by probing around with my finger on the Y/C board that the colour came back.

It occurred to me that I was effecting capacitance values.

And maybe one was the culprit.

But I did not Need to completely fix this unit.

It would be nice to Know what you are seeing, on screen.

When you talk about this streaking.

Is it colour fringing on the edges of components in the image?

Or random flashes of colour.

Have you the Service Manual which covers the Electrical Alignment.

Especially the colour section.


Tuesday 29th January 2019
12:30 pm U.K.

Hi Jeff

The Trimmer Capacitor CV001 change "worked" regarding the "no colour prolem" on my SL-HF950 as it did on the SL-HF100. I now have colour on the HF950 also. I only got B/W on the HF950 original video board before this. But theres a problem, after a few seconds playing time I get colour streaks on the HF950 that I do not get on the HF100. Jeff, do you have any idea on this "colour steaks" problem?

Well as is, my old replacement video board will have to go back into the HF950 as it works 100%. But it would be nice to get the original video board in top form again as a fully functioning spare part. Or vice versa! So close, so close!!!

PS: Now for some more Idiosyncrasy. The CV001 is called CV1 on the HF950 video board but CV001 in the HF950 service manual? Could be a "not enough space on the board" issue?


Sunday 27th January 2019
5:44 pm U.K.

[email protected]

hi i have purchased an SL-5400 Betamax NTSC VCR with no manual Can anyone can send me the owners manual please at my email Thank you

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