Don t you just love betamax! I just got virgin digital telly installed and it says in the manual that you can t record on demand content to your vcr or dvdr. Thanks to no macrovision detection in beta decks, oh yes I can record to my vcr thankyou very much :)

To Brian Collins again: You will still have to remove the top cover to be able to release the circuit boards since the front panel contains part of the circuit board assembly. This part must be released from the chassis assembly to be able to remove the circuit board. Be careful not to damage the flexfoil circuitry that links the 3 circuit board parts.

There are also a series of grounding wires connected to the chassis that must be unscrewed as well.

If all you need to do is replace fuses you likely won't have to remove the board totally. There is a small sub-board where the two fuses on this machine are located - at least on the North American SL-2000 equivilent I'm familiar with. I cannot speak for the SL-F1 exactly.

Boby,

Yes sorry - well spotted. That was information for Bill.

cheers Noel

My pardon, I have to post for the 3rd times;

Noel was that supposed to be posted to Bill .

-#-

Here's the link of a complete Broadcasts signal;

http://stjarnhimlen.se/tv/tv.html

Cheers.

Ah yes I just remember.

I swapped HF99ES TUNER into HF950E it works OK, I guess it's all the same in majority.

I'm not recommending this idea, the risks is all yours.

Regards

Hi folks it's good to have you all here..

I suspect my HF 99 ES can receive PAL I , coz it's tuner a lot different than 950E or maybe 950ES but I cannot prove it since I have no detailed manual of my HF99ES and I have no PAL I signal to receive.

Greets,Boby

Brian,

The main problem or difference you have is between the UK channel arrangements based on 8MHz channels and Europe/Australia/NZ etc based on 7MHz. This resulted in your soound carrier being on a different frequency. The later difference was that UK adopted the NICAM system (which is why I have heard some people adding Nicam to a HF950 ) whereas Australia adopted the German twin carrier stereo sound transmission system. So there is more to this than just the variations of channel steps and what PAL system is being used.

Hello to Olive and Boby - it's a while since we've chatted.

cheers Noel (betaheaven.com)

Just for comparison;

Bill;The reason I ask is because I would like to use my 950E 's VHF and PAL B/G facility to surf for any remaining such channels and to be able to record them with sound ....))

The HF950 /E type was ever build in my country (SONY overseas manufacturing PLANT) so I would say that your Beta is the same as mine. Here's some info that might be usefull;

HF950ES ;VHF - Western European channelE2 - U20.UHF = E21-E68 HF 950E VHF = E2 - E12UHF = E21 - E68

HF 950ES video signal is CCIR standard PAL and DDR SECAM HF 950E CCIR standard PAL only.

I would say that HF950E or maybe HF950ES cannot receive Ireland TV broadcasts, maybe someone in Somerset can tell....

Cheers,Boby

Thanks for the quick response, Boby, but I think you need to read my posting a bit more carefully. While there a few other minor differences, the main difference between PAL B/G and PAL I is the sound subcarrier separation frequency. PAL B/G is indeed the dominant PAL system. PAL I is used in the UK, all of Ireland, most of southern Africa, Hong Kong, and a few other places, most often those which were once part of the British Empire - although curiously, not in Australia or New Zealand. I've never heard of anything called PAL BGH-I. There are quite a few Websites with full world-wide system details, or you can look them up in the World Radio and TV Handbook (published in the US but available everywhere). I think I might have a complete listing somewhere, when I find it I'll send it to you.

Something I should have mentioned in my original posting, and which may be quite germane to my second question: My 950E was originally imported from Germany, which would most likely account for the "E" suffix and its having a VHF tuner as well as an UHF one. I've never encountered a 950 made for the British market, but I would strongly suspect that it would have suffered the removal of its VHF tuner and its B/G capability. This was a pernicious practice applied to TVs and VCRs destined for the UK, and which has only recently started to die out. Since prices were - in many cases still are - lower in other parts of Europe, we were actually paying EXTRA to have facilities REMOVED from our equipment!

There are still a few oddities. My 1989 Loewe TV covered absolutely everything, but my three year old Thompson doesn't cover the strange Eastern European SECAM, and it only does 4:58 playback "pseudo NTSC", not the proper version, so I can't get broadcast NTSC at all. Most of the VCRs on the UK market can convert original NTSC recordings to pseudo for playback.

Perhaps someone who has had experience with a UK market-only 950 can tell me about its tuner arrangement.

I'd be very grateful for any answers to my questions.Regards to all,Bill

addition to my post;

http://www.psreporter.com/pal_system_tv_standard.html

There's also doubt in me about the PAL B/G and Pal B/G-I, as I really understand in south-east-Asia most TV channel are incorcoprated by PAL B/G system wich I think also compatible to Australia???

I'm pretty sure about European PAL beta is that they have ES series such as HF99ES and HF77ES.

What I don't really know is what kind of PAL UK system use BGH-I ???

I really apreciate if there's someone can give details on this.

PS;I HAD used A EUROPEAN MODEL BETAMAX HF99ES (identical twin of HF905ES) in SE-ASIA without any problem (with multisystem Monitor) except that the color is more solid than it supposed to be.

Regards,Boby

Hi, I got a Betamovie BMC-100P a couple of months ago, and I've only just recently managed to charge the battery, but there's a niggle with it, it will record for about 10 to 30 seconds, and the tape motor sounds like something's slipping, then it cuts out and the "DEW" light comes on, the only way for the light to go out is wait for a minute or eject the tape. The cog onto which the belt to the tape wheel goes seems to jerk in time to the sound of the motor slipping. I'm guessing there's a belt slipping somewhere, but I can't see anything without pulling the camera apart. Any ideas anyone? :(

Thanks Olive, But I have also an F1 that points to an FS04 fuse gone so I need to know how to get into them, replacing the capacitors on my F30 was easy to access but need a bit more info on access to the F1. regards Brian

I hope this first query doesn't sound too far off topic but please bear with me, I have two questions: Does anyone out there know anything about the few remaining European VHF TV channels? The reason I ask is because I would like to use my 950E 's VHF and PAL B/G facility to surf for any remaining such channels and to be able to record them with sound - remember,in the UK we are stuck with PAL I. In the early 90s and when the good old sunspots were helping out, I used to get VHF from Portugal and Spain across to Russia, including Italy and Greece, on my multistandard Loewe TV, but I think most of these VHF transmissions may have died. I think there may be one or two Belgian channels still surviving, but I can most likely get these on UHF when the conditions are right. It would seem that VHF in Europe - including Russia - is well on the skids. Any info would be very much appreciated.

My properly on-topic question is this: I know that the UHF and the VHF tuners on the 950E seem to inhabit different planets. All the documentation I've seen says that if you go to the Euro channel set for the rest of the continent, you lose all the UK settings, and if you want to get back to the UK settings you lose all and any Euro channels you may have acquired and stored. Is this absolutely true or is there any way around it?

In hope,Bill

To Brian Collins; You are so doing it wrong. Video head is on the other side of the unit and doesn't require removing the bottom panel and circuit boards. You'd have to remove the top assembly with the battery box to get at the head - not that you should be having a go at a defenceless SL-F1 's innards.

Easiest head cleaning trick is to hold a tape (best to use one you don't care about) in play/pause for a few minutes.

Have just obtained a SLF1 -UB and want to clean the head but can't find an easy way in to it, how do you get to it, am I missing something somewhere as I have removed the bottom tray and released the 4 screws om the circuit board but nothing moves. any advice would be helpfull. many thanks.Brian

Darryl,You won't need a transformer for the German or UK machines. You may need a transformer for the USA unit although some of them are multi-voltage so check first if you can change the voltage to 240V. Australia, Germany and UK use the same PAL system, the USA uses NTSC. Tapes are the same for all but you can't playback a NTSC tape on a PAL machine, or vice versa. You can record anything on any tape.

And a hint: A bit of punctuation would make your post much easier to read.

Darryl,try a travel shop,they sell small transformers

Subject: pal comparision

i have just recently bought a sony camera unit sl-fie hvc3000 camera porta pack and tuner from germany.i know pal in germany is a different format but can i use any blank video tapes from america england australia or germany to record and playback in australia via video and audio out to a dvd or computer also i have bought the same combination from england and also from america i also have got in australian format a hvc4000 camera and battery charger and batteries only no porta pack or tuner to go with it can i mix and match formats or what do i need to make them work. do i need to buy video tapes from germany and where can i buy them please.where can i get a transformer to adapt american england and german voltages to australian.

regards darry

Bogan and Sons52 Cedar StGreenslopesBrisbaneQld 4120Tele 07 33979644Fax 07 33979688email [email protected]

Why would you bother?

Oops. Forgot the link.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SONY-BETAMAX-SL-5800-TIME-COMMANDER-WITH-REMOTE_W0QQitemZ330153160729

The continuous stench of urine can be VERY distracting, you know.

Ricky/Mike/Doc/Videohead/Jeff

Wow - a 5800 with the original wireless remote control!

I should get this because those replacement universals read my brain waves. I know, I know, I've suspended 1,073 individual foil balls from my ceiling using strands of cooked spaghetti like Mr. Magicman says, and keep the coathangers suspended from my ears at all times, but what if I crumpled one of the foil balls wrong? The remote signals might be able to read my mind anyway - even with my pockets full of coffee grounds.

Anyway, non-OEM remotes also mess up communications with the mother ship no matter what the FCC compliance statement says about them. I must have written to them 584 times about this.

Ricky/Mike/Doc/Videohead/Jeff

Colin,

I have only used light machine oil, CRC might work. The planetary gears are one source of noise as I said but another can be a split plastic gear on the metal plastic load drive shaft. The wider gap of the tooth where the split is makes noise as the ring gear spools tape around the head. The planetary gear noise occurs as the tape mechanism takes in the cassette and places it over the reels.

cheers Noel

Noel,re the noisy gear,would crc 2-26 do the same job?

Stuart,

OK on your list. I guess in terms of imports to the UK you have them all. Other stereo machines are the SLHF150, The SLO420, SLO1700 and the SLHF100P. The last two have linear AND HiFi stereo being "printers" for commercial video tapes. The last three have no tuners.

Oh, my comment about ACC stands for might be wrong. There is certainly such a circuit in TVs. (prob ACK) You can tell I was painting yesterday - brain fade!

cheers Noel

Hi Noel,

Thanks for info, I will have to get it sent for electronics adjustments.List of my betas - 2 x sl-c9, both in perfect working order, no faults and as close to mint as you will find now.one slhf100 in perfect mint condition save a few surface scuffs on top cover.2 x sl-hf950, one in full working order, one away for repairs to t901 and av recording no colour problem1 x slc40 as previous and 1 x slf30 intermittent power on problem which I have on ebay at the moment.

Stuart,

About the Sony SLC40 no colour problem.

I can think of two adjustments which may affect that and they are both on the YC 25 board. One is the ACC set by RV001 (automatic colour killer - to stop you watching noisey pictures in colour) and the other is the AFC set by RV006 (automatic frequency control.)

I suggest you make an ohms measurement of where the control is set before you change anything so that at least you can undo any damage if I am wrong.

To set ACC you will need an oscilloscope. Apply colour bar signal in E-E mode (line in) and measure the waveform at Pin 24 of IC001. Adust the waveform for "peak to peak" level of 0.68V +/- 0.05Volts.

To set AFC apply colour bar signal in E-E mode (line in) and measure the waveform at Pin 16 of IC003. Adjust to 1.7VDC +/-0.1V with RV006. Ignore the peaks (spikes od horizontal pulse) and just note the steady level.

Hope that works!

Give me a list of your machines. Do you have the Sony SLHF100P and the SLO-420?

cheers Noel

Hi, please I need advice Noel....I have obtained an slc40 which has a strange problem. It won t play in colour either by av or rf, picture is bw...but record a tape on this machine and play on any other and it is colour as it should be. Can anyone offer advice as to the problem and a possible fix? This c40 completes my collection of sony stereo (linear and hifi) machines, and I should think its not a major thing to fix, just that I have no idea at the moment! Cheers in advance, Stuart.

Thanks to Kevin and Acehigh for advise, have mailed Collin for advise waiting his reply,also jus bought another VTC5000 of ebay I bought it to see if could make one good out of two but hope now to make two out of two, and Kevin if you read this your mail got put into my spam box and i inadvertantly empted it , would like to keep in touch so if you could mail again would appreciate Dennis

Firstly, during a brief hiatus from searching the Bay of E for sellers I personally find reprehensible and then report to you here, I was thinking: I have never seen a SLO-1700 in person, but I have an SLO-1800, which is NTSC and is a front-loading SUPERBETA. However, if the SLO-1700 is a top loader, I would think that you could remove the cassette cover (isn't it just screwed on?) and the outer casing.

This manuever itself can "fix" lots of mechanical problems. Even if the top doesn't open with the EJECT button, you should be able to see and manually turn the motor belt that controls the top...

Just some musings as I collect myself and return to the ol' bay for an all nighter reading, taking copious notes and then reporting on Beta auctions by scummy sellers. After all I am the chat page self-appointed consumer watchdog...aren't I a troublemaker????

Doc/Max/Grace

Great page for your Sanyo servicing questions:

http://www.colin99.co.uk/extras/reelidler/how_to_service_a_sanyo_beta.htm

Just thought hope was lost, then found this site. I have a Sanyo VTC 500 and decided to transfer some Betamax tapes to CD, first three perfectly OK then heard terribal noise and last tape chewed up, i removed top case and managed to retrive tape, and then noticed belt under tape carrage was off, can anyone please help as i can see no way to get at belt to replace,think noise was coming from gears not messing with motor, but this only a guess, any help would appreciate,(IM only a novice)

Dave,

They come up from time to time on eBay

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Lot-of-NEW-Sony-L-500-Beta-Video-Tapes_W0QQitemZ280137661723QQihZ018QQcategoryZ3319QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Just wondering if these tapes are rare that I found they are a couple of Sony L-830 and a fuji L-750 still sealed that I found at a second hand storei would be willing to sell them for a good offerThanksDave

Alan,

I have given you suggestions directly by email.

cheers Noel

My SL HF 950 has been having another weird problem that may be realted to the fact I have taken it far from home to North America.

Over the past couple of years it has generally gotten flakelier and flakier as it gets older. Unfortuneatly as everyone here knows you cant just go and get a new one or a newer model.

Was wondering oif anyone has expereincede my latest problem- remember I am running this on 110 volt 60 hz (which is among the power levels it has been designed to accept). It was having problems turning on, one would often have to hit the power button many times to get it to start, it was worse when the machine had been unplugged for an extended period of time. It got the point where I could only get it to power on by hitting the set timer switch- although even that stopped working. The display would not even light up when it was plugged in.

Took it to the shop and it appears as if there is some weird problem with the 12 V supply. A work around was devised so that when the unit was having problems or had been unplugged I had a wall wart AC adaptor hooked into the sysetm so that it would act as a jump start. This si not the best solution and was wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem and found a different way to remedy it.

G'day Colin,Careful on greasing your gear, don't spill to much oil on parts esp rubber&electrical stuff inside.

Hope your Beta runs smooth.......

Greets,Boby

Colin,

With your noisy SLHF100, remove the top cover and use the tip of a screw driver to place a drop of light machine ooil on the centre of the white drive gear with the teeth that the cam locks into at the centre rear of the machine. This gear drives the load assembly then the load ring. The planetary gears inside that mechanism are most likely the cause of the noise. You may add another drop when the first soaks in.

cheers Noel

Since my Sony slhf100as was returned from the shop the loading carriage is very noisy?Any ideas?

To Brenda;

Learning remote is bit expensive, if you have Hand held organizer (Palm,Ipaq,Treo) you can have them patch/programmed as an IR programable Remote.

That would be classy on using/operate with a touch screen REMOTE Commander.

PDA-Phone also possible to be programmed as an IR remote controller.

I got a vintage Palm V organizer that can be programmed as almost all type of remote controller.

Regards,Boby

Hello everyone!Firstly,I would like to find a home a collection of Beta movies. The movielist is as follows:

Beverly Hills Cop IBeverly Hills Cop IICity Heat-Clint Eastwood,Burt ReynoldsCobra-StalloneFull Metal Jacket-Stanley Kubrick(Director)Gotcha-Anthony EdwardsGremlinsHouseLassiter-Tom SelleckMaximum Overdrive-Emilio EstevezThe Right Stuff- Ed Harris-Scott Glenn-Dennis Quaid-Sam Shepard,etc

The SqueezeTightrope-Clint EastwoodVice Versa-Judge Reinhold

I would like to sell everything for 350 dollars +$25.00 handling+shipping. Please let meknow.

that edv9500 looks awesome! I know its possible to convert a european pal vhs vcr to work on the uk pal system, but is / would it be possible to convert an ntsc beta machine like this to uk pal?

Name: Brenda Ann DyerE-mail: [email protected] 27th July 2007 1:02 am U.K. Time I'd give him $100 just to use the remote for a few days. At least then I could use it to program my learning remote to use with my machine.....

WITH A HUNDRED BUX I CAN GIVE A SIMILAR SHAPE OF THAT KIND OF REMOTE COMMANDER.( rmt 232 )Cheers

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sony-Beta-Max-Video-Recorder_W0QQitemZ320139701565

Lovely. A Betamax for sale by a shipping company who refuses to ship it.

Hi Noel & StuartThanks for the adice to change the 5 capacitors on the SL-F30 on the power supply, have done it and has cured problem, much obliged.Brian

I'd give him $100 just to use the remote for a few days. At least then I could use it to program my learning remote to use with my machine.....

Name: BobyE-mail: [email protected] 26th July 2007 1:13 am U.K. Time Now the starting value is lowered and reserve price is set.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ED-BETA-EDV-9500-New-Remote-Parts-Extras_W0QQitemZ170133897163QQihZ007QQcategoryZ39830QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Pretty good price, ye don't think it will goes well.

Hi Paul:Apparently there is a video head tester that you connect up and it tells you the quality of life or wear in the heads.A bit expensive and , no, i've never used one.Black flecks to anything white or with high luminance in a vcr's playback, especially if it records like, it tells you the heads are past their best.Also if a Hi-Fi machine the Hi-Fi audio will drop out first and not be heard or be hard to track in if not impossible as this signal goes in deeper on the tape than the picture signal.

Might seem a silly question, but here goes.Is it possible to check the picture quality of heads, without actually playing a tape through them on? I have 2 machines not running, where if the heads are no good, I would rather not go through the expense of getting them to run.

Now the starting value is lowered and reserve price is set.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ED-BETA-EDV-9500-New-Remote-Parts-Extras_W0QQitemZ170133897163QQihZ007QQcategoryZ39830QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Pretty good price, ye don't think it will goes well.

Hi,loads of bits here, 10 year collection, 500 tapes,maybe more?, various machines, sony c9, in mint condition, need video head though ! ,c40 working and in nice condition with remote but a bit of servo trouble, various sanyo machines working,many interesting bits, bmp100 boxed, bmp 500 in good condition with loads of batteries and multi charger, tons of circuit boards for many sony machines, some sony machines too , c5 /6/7 all breakers , hf100 spares only.....loads of stuff,I cant remember whats there !!! bring a van !..... it has to go as one lump please, no picking..... bargain at 125 quid, no haggling, just get it out of my spare room !!.....please Email or call me on 07854599821 after 10 am please.

Hi !...I've been a betafan for many years and now I have to clear all the gear !, I have approx 1000 tapes,10 machines including a C9, needs video head but in mint condition, vtc 5000, c6, c7,bmp 500, batteries, multi charger, loads of spares and duff? machines .. . hf 100, c40 in working order and very nice condition but servo trouble... basicly it all has to go, I want the lot removing in one go, no picking the cream !,all or nothing.....125 quid the lot !!!!! , I'm in the Warrington area,that's Cheshire .please email or call me on 07854599821 after 10 am please.

Thanks Charlie, I'll have to check that out next time I get one of those VCR's. I see them On Ebay all the time, so maybe it's the caps near the power supply like you said....

Adam

HI NOEL JUST WANT TO THANK YOU FOR POINTING ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION REF THE PS1 FUSE THANKS ON THE SLC30

Can anyone tell me the type of capaitors I need to replace two x 16v-47uf, two x 16v-22uf and one 25v-47uf.I know they are electrolytic radial +85c but are they nonpolarised aluminium, and marked on the board is a + for one connection so do they have to be fitted a certain way round. Also is there a supplier in the UK as most have said that they cannot supply the 25v-47uf or the 16v-47uf Thanks for any adviceBrian

Paul,

I had one SLS2000 with that sort of fault and it turned out to be a faulty power regulator IC. I had to use one from a spares machine. I dont think Sony supply them anymore, at least not in Australia.

cheers noel

Hi Kevin, thanks again.The Sony SL-S2000 that I have looks to be a late model & in great condition, but it is not powering up - no lights or reaction.Do you know of the picture quality etc of this machine & any feedback on the reason for the power failure & possibility to get fixed?

RegardsPaul

Hi Paul:I have never seen the Sanyo 5400 in operation and do know spares for this model the 5300 ,9300 and 5600 are very hard if not impossible to get.For me the best picture quality on a Sanyo was the VTC5000, 6500,M30 and M40. The 5150,M10 and M20 were good too but a fraction softer.Spares are also still available.I'll have a look at my breakdown listings, as the 5400 is covered, and see if i can come up with your issue...............Kevin

Kevin, Thanks.I also have a Sanyo VTC-5400 that someone has given me.However, when selecting REWIND,FF or Play, the tape stops after about 2 seconds. It still loads & unloads fine.I am thinking of getting it fixed & wanted an opinion on what the problem/s is most likely to be. Also, is that model worthy of being fixed? How was the quality, picture etc?

RegardsPaul

Adam, The NTSC 2300-2400 problem you described is very common with that series. About two years ago I bought a SL-2400 that had the problem you described. The audio and video would both go wild. What I did was merely take a power supply out of another 2400 I had that was used for parts and the problem was gone and to this day the VCR works fine. I think the problem is the capacitors in the power supply dry out . BUT the power supply I put in the 2400 had recently had a new voltage regulator installed so maybe that was the problem. Who knows but I would put my money on the caps if I had to guess.I've never took the time to check the bad power supply to see just what was wrong.Charlie

Hi Paul:The picture quality on the Sanyo VTC NX100 is poor on all the ones i've seen.I think they cut back a bit too much on the internal circuitry.To think they made that machine to gain more Beta enthusiasts was a great shame.I also would'nt put ANY head cleaner near ANY vcr.You'll end up wearing them down and then you will need new ones.....Kevin

HiBought a Sony SL-S2000 which looks to be in great condition, but it is not powering up - not lights or reaction. I would appreciate anyones feedback on reason & possibility to get fixed.

Also, bought a Sanyo VTC-NX10 which runs fine, except for the sharpness of the picture. Had to adjust tracking which improved a bit & a head cleaner. Is it worth having new heads installed, as I have read somewhere that the picture on these models were poor, anyway.

I want to transfer onto DVD & would like best quality.

RegardsPaul

Hi all,

got a review? There's service manual included . Amazing price!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ED-BETA-EDV-9500-New-Remote-Parts-Extras_W0QQitemZ170133897163QQihZ007QQcategoryZ39830QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Cheers

Hi NoelCould you send me a total cost including carriage please and how to pay, I don't expect you use Paypal. Could you send Email address so I can give you postal address or contact me on my emailThanksRegardsBrian.

Brian,

Yes I still have the manual but its an Australian version of the F30 called an F30AS. I assume your in UK. Main differences against the Euroopean version are the TV output channels and the tuner. Cost $20Au plus postage.

regards Noel

Hi NoelI see that you had available a SL-F30 service manuls, have you still got any and at what price and carriage pleasethanksregardsBrian

Brian,

Sorry to miss lead you - I should have checked a circuit. I have been doing heaps of HF100s and not many SLC30. Changing the 16V 22uF should fix the problems. If I were doing it I would change all of them.

cheers Noel

My turn with an sl-f30 problem I can t figure out. Most of the time it will power up correctly and if it does it works perfectly. Other times particularly if the unit has been on very recently, it will not power up properly. Instead a motor underneather the cassette bay (reel motor)? turns constantly until turned off at the wall. If it does this the unit will not park the tension arm with a click click as it would on a normal power on. If the unit is cold it powers on correctly everytime. Any ideas please anyone?

Noel and StuartThanks for info. I have removed power supply unit and there are :- One 25volt x 47ufTwo 16volt x 47ufTwo 16volt x 22uf Which of these need replacing pleaseThanksBrian

Brian,

The most common cause for that is faulty electrolytic capacitors in the power supply.

Replace the two or three 25Volt 10uF electrolytic capacitors and see if that fixes it.

regards Noel

Brian, re your slf30, this is highly likely to be power supply related, see the models techical section for info (last entry at the bottom)

I have just purchased a SL-F30UB and I have an all over wavy pattern on tape playback and also when receiving off air signal through RF. Any information gratefuly received. RegardsBrian

Noel,

Very good idea.

I just remember Resistor is only reduce current not Voltage.

Zener is a OK.

THX

Cheers

HI,

Re the fuse PS1 on an SLC30, it is on the bottom board near the centre of the machine. It looks like a two leg transistor. It will have a number on it like N20 or such.

Looks nothing like a normal fuse. Take care not to damage the copper tracks with too much heat when you changing it.

cheers Noel

Question on the Sony 2300 and 2400 (Pal SL-C30 ) series beta vcrs. A long time ago I noticed When I came across these vcrs, thay all seem to have the same problem, Tracking problems. The tracking would not track the picture, and the sound sounding unsteady (High pitch sounds it's noticable, the sound souding wavey). Before I come across another one of these, what are these problems and what needs to be fixed (Caps etc..)?

Thanks...Adam

HI CAN ANYONE HELP I HAVE A SL-C30 WHICH HAS THE USUAL STOP PROBLEM IN PLAY RECORD AND REVERSE,RECORD THE RECOMENDATION IS TO REPLACE THE SILICONE FUSE PS1 ON YC-25 BOARD AS RECOMENDED ON THE TECH PAGE BUT I CAN NOT FIND PS1 ON THE YC-25 BOARD AT ALL CAN ANYONE POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION AS TO WHERE ON THE BOARD IT IS AND A DISCRIPTION THERES LOADS OF R NoS AND Cs BUT NO Ps PLEASE HELP AS ITS A LOVELY MACHINE WAITING TO PLAY AGAIN JUST FOR THE SAKE OF A FUSE

Boby,

I assume the NTSC machine has a power usage rating of around 38W same as a Sony SLC30.

On the basis that you want to reduce the voltage by around 10% about 10% of the power would be lost in any series resistor. The reason you cant just use a resistor is because the current demands of the machine vary. To drop a constant foward voltage of about 10 volts use two 9.1Volt 2 watt rating or more zener diodes connected in series with one-another but reverse to each other.

Put these in series with the active supply line. On one AC cycle, when one is conducting (0.7V drop)the other is in reverse zener (normal rated 9.1V) giving a total of around 9.8V drop. On the next (reverse) AC cylce the reverse happens. POwer is equally shared by the two. Make sure adequate airflow is allowed for the heat dissipation of up to 5 watts.

Stuart,

Good luck with the F1. That damage might occur with fresh water because the unit has power to the circuits causing electrolysis.

cheers Noel

Brenda,

I know that, I have HF1000D wich power consm is 100V,it's on 220-110 Variac now. I just want a small device to put into empty space inside the deck so it'll make the deck cooler for hours of operation.

((I guess doesn't matter much coz it's running on 110 eversince and there's TDK regulator inside))

THANKS FOR YOUR IDEA, I can simply adjust the small trimpot of the variac to 100 volts.

Boby,

Can you get ahold of a Variac (variable autotransformer)? If you got one for 220V, you could run your Beta on any line voltage from 100-220 just by setting the Variac output voltage.

A good day today - just got a spares / repair f1 from ebay with sole intention of using it as spares for c9s. The unit is water damaged (salt water I think) as as well as rust there is a white deposit on anything metal in the lower part of the case! But it had an all plastic threading gear (a rare find) and also the later upgraded upper drum and I believe it has a good head disk too. Not bad for £15.

Noel, If the loading gear you're looking for is Sony part #3-684-163-01 I have a supplier but it's in the states. They will be generic but I've had good luck with them. This is the loading gear on the carriage that breaks all the time on NTSC models.Maybe the Pal models are different, I'm not sure.

Charlie

Noel,That case I have to use 2 block of trafo.

I can't do that. I just want a small piece of device to squezee into empty space in Beta deck. Can I use wire-wound Transformer (something like AWG 18 wound into feritte core)?

I just want to cut 10 volts from the mains so I have 100-105V.

Cheers-Boby

Boby,

The best way to reduce your 120Volt supply to 100 VAC for your NTSC beta if you think its a problem is to use a transformer 120VAC to 15VAC. You power the trnasformer and connect its secondary in series with the active lead but antiphase. (Meaning the 15Volts subtracts from the incoming mains supplied to the beta) You must take care that the transformer is in a well insulated case so that you dont create an electrical hazard.

cheers Noel

Stuart,

I dont think it would be worth churning out new SLC9 upper drums. I have not found them to be much of a problem. Then again I have heaps of spares machines. Some of these had the "upgraded" upper drum. I heard or saw a comment recently by an ex Sony technician who said that the upper drum problem was over rated. All the machines he had ever seen with this problem were cured by rubbing the surface with an ink type erazer. (the type with embedded sand I think he meant) Probably super fine wet and dry sand paper would get the same effect. You would have to do it with the upper drum removed so as not to risk head damage.

What would be nice is a source of replacement load gears. They are no longer available from Sony.

A comment to the chatpage user in the US who spoke of the cost of pinch rollers. You are lucky if you have been getting pinch rollers for $5. They have been about $35Au here in Australia for a long time. SLC40 and SLHF100 bias transformers are very expensive also.

cheers Noel.

Hi Stuart:That's a very admirable suggestion you have come up with.I would'nt really like to say but i would think the measurments and accuracy would have to be very specific and accurate.Actually you've just made another observation between the Sony /Sanyo debate.I've never had a Sanyo that needed a new upper drum.Another advantage of the unlacing design for the fast modes or a too tortuous one of the Sony tape path.Maybe Sony could help you out with that one?It's worth a try.............Kevin

Still needed:

RMT-146 for my ED Beta machine.

If anyone has one of these unobtainium remotes, please e-mail me.

Hi, This is directed at Noel or Kevin - I am probably thinking the impossible here but where I work has a precision metal work engineering department, among other things they make dies for extruders. I have been thinking, if it would be possible or feasible to make new upper drums for sony betas? I mean, how accurate would the measurments have to be (particulary the width) I know you then have all the screw hols that need to me taken account of and cut into the top of the drum and the one on the side for the allen bolt and getting the placements correct for the screws. Maybe it would cost too much in development? Even if they were sold for £50 each and the other thing is how much demand would there be? There must still be a demand for upper drums (if they could be obtained) I know as I have tried ordering c9 upper drums from several uk sites listing them but they have always been out of stock or unavailable.

Hi, if anyone in the UK is interested, I have a wired remote for an SL-C6 for sale, it came with the rest of my Betamax kit and I have no use for it. Here's the link to it on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230153324255

David

I wish I could help on repairing LED VU meter but my distance is 24hours flight to USA. I had repaired 4 modules of HF950 VU meter and I don't think I have trouble on other meters as well.

Greets

Lee Kwan Yu

Hi Betafellas,

I'm living in a continent that uses PAL system but I have NTSC(Japanese Beta).My ntsc Beta consumes only 100 Volts.

It's OK if I use the deck just for a short moment and I don't think it's good for burning in/endurance use.

What I want want to know is it possible to reduce the 110v mains supply by just giving a 5-10 watt resistor to the primary winding of the transformer?

If it's so how much is the resistance value of the R(omega)?

Many thanks in advanced.Regards,Boby

Kevin, Interesting note about the UK betas. I guess Sanyo and all the others thought there was more market here in the states and kinda side stepped the UK. Because I have worked on vcr's for many years I've always kept a good supply of belts and pinch rollers on hand. The special Sony type pinch rollers have recently went way up in price from my supplier. I used to pay around five US dollars but the last time they were up to ten dollars for a generic one and twenty for a original Sony. They're probably gonna stop carrying them.Belt kits are still easy to get as are idler tires. I think you must have had a high mileage 950 cause i have a SL-HF-750 ( NTSC equal ) and just love it. The sound is great on either HI-FI or mono and the picture is fantastic! I have a bunch of betas in my collection and the 750 has to be my favorite. Tonite I think I'll dig out a couple Sanyos that I have played since Christmas. I'll let you know if I have to kick em in the slats!!

Hi Charlie:Well i have to admit to never having that slipping belt problem even after a couple of months.It's sounds as if yours could do with new ones.A lot seem to think that these machines go on and on with no service or parts,until they start to get tape crunching or no operation.The rubber items will give you grief for one reason.If they are old , cracked and (in the case of belts) stay the same shape if you remove them from the pulleys.Also with the Sanyo's the spool groove edge must be cleaned as well as the pulleys.Lubricating the spool bearing's and making sure the small black washers are in place will make a hell of a difference.The clutch under the left spool should be checked for free movement too as i've had a couple that were hard to turn and caused tape problems in reverse picture search.A Sony Beta's picture may have the edge when it comes to comparison but the Beta system is a tortous one and to stay laced up only gives you worn tapes(scratches/scores) and extra unecessary head wear ( video and audio).My VHS models stay partially laced up but with the excessive use i've given them that's never been a issue.Maybe Sanyo makes super hard heads......who know's. One thing which has rarely been menitoned on here and which i touched upon in my last message was how do most feel about Sony and Sanyo's promises about not deserting the Beta format.I have also found out that Toshiba released a Beta Hi-Fi machine for the US market and Sanyo made the CCD imaging Betamovie for the Australian market as well as the SuperBeta models for the US market.Why did they carry on overseas and ignore us in the UK.It was the same when the UK was promised a PAL version of ED Beta..Japan got it but we were ignored.The Beta format was apparently dying all over the once popular areas, so why did we get tossed aside first??I read the interview with Paul Dominy in the Video the Magazine in 1985( i still have this plus many tothers for prosperity) and he stated Sanyo and Sony were promoting and giving strenous efforts to the Beta format.Well apart from the Sanyo M40 beta Hi-Fi adds in most video magazines with the Sydney Opera House i did'nt see any other evidence.Where were the TV adds.

I think Sanyo relied too much on providing a bargain basement machines for the UK (the NX100 ) in the hope of high sales as they did in 1983 with the VTC 5000. They were capable of far more and most Betaphiles were looking for this.The NX100 was not a very performance orientated machine and i was disappointed with it's playback quality.The picture was grainy and not very sharp and the sound was lightly muffled .It seemed like Sanyo cut back and changed major components for something cheaper.For the Beta format we deserved more.The Sony SLHF25 was a boring looking budget machine and this together with Sanyo's NX100 effort should've told us what they were intending to do.One other thing the quality of TV that you utilise for playback can make a huge differnce when judging performance and i use a Toshiba32" Dolby digital and Hitachi 24" so you can see were the quality is or is'nt.For me the Beta models they made that had the best pictures were the 5000,6500,M30 and M40 ( although many of the movies released with Beta Hi-Fi were poor quality compared to it's own recordings, most likely from Sony slave machines).Then came the 5150,M10 and M20 and then the NX100. I have had the opportunity to see many of each model in action so it was'nt a one off. The Sony SLHF950 and SLHF100 were great in all areas but i've had one SLHF100 with faulty VU meters and another with no Beta hi-Fi sound either recording or playback( even though the Beta Hi-Fi light was illuminated) and the video was great.The SLHF950 was superb but the only thing not working was the Hi -Fi tracking LED's the mono sound was awful low and muffled compared to the Hi-Fi. Now we have this Blu Ray and High Definition DVD war and i won't be getting involved in either.Why can't the manufactures swallow their pride and stick to ONE as they did very successfully with normal perfectly adequate DVD???????????????The mind boggles...........Kevin

Stuart,

On the DC/DC question. There are a number of factors involved.The DC/DC failure problems are related mainly to aging of the electrolytic capacitors particularly the two 10uF 50V capacitors but others such as the 330uF DC supply bypass are a problem also. Over time electrolytic capacitors dry out. The other problem they have is increased series resistance. (ESR)

Heat will accelerate this process so leaving them on all the time wont help that. Also the original capacitors are rated at 85 deg C. Replacement with 105 deg C capacitors will help.

The DC/DC upgraded version changed design in (at least) two ways. Holes in the case to allow cooling and addition of a diode/resistor/capacitor combination around the base of the main switch mode power transistor (2SD789) to stop it blowing when the capacitors get low in value and the circulating currents and transient voltages are higher.

In summary, if you are using a machine all the time then leave it on but ensure it has the upgraded DC/DC with higher temperature (105C) rated caps. Otherwise, intermittent use is best.

cheers Noel (betaheaven.com)

Hi again all,Just a query I am hoping to find out an answer for, regarding sl-c9s, what is the best advice for preserving the working life of the dc dc converters? Is it best to power a unit up every so often, leave it on all the time, or have it on only when you are using it? Of my two c9s, one has the original dc dc the other has the later version and both work perfectly. Is there a given life expectancy for them or is there any chance they won t ever fail?

I will agree with the recent post about the Sanyo beta's being very easy to work on. For ease of maintenance and repair you can't beat them. One of my reasons for liking the Sonys better is the loading of the tape around the heads. I like the way this speeds things up when you operate the controls. I always found if I let a Sanyo sit for a couple months and go to use it the belts may slip due to non use. Ones that I play more often give me no problems. The old saying "use it or lose it" is right when it comes to Sanyos.I have quite a few Sanyos and it's hard to play them all.I do use a 7200 HI-FI Sanyo to rewind my tapes.As far as the Sonys are concerned I will agree that when they have a problem it's usually a bigger one then the Sanyos and requires electronics trouble shooting but I love the picture quality the Sonys give.I recently got rid of most of my Toshiba betas except for three of my HI-FI units. The Toshibas gave a wonderful Sony like picture but the belt situation was the same as the Sanyos. I like all the betas for one reason or another but the Sonys remain my favorite.

Charlie

Stuart,

The Sony SLC9AS I suspect will have differences in the tuner mainly and possibly in the power supply area. The cost for postage to UK you should be able to calculate using http://www.auspost.com.au/internationalpost/products/prepaid/epi/index.aspThe manual weighs under 500 gram. Note it is the service manual and does not contain the alignment information.

Kevin,

Interesting comments you make on the various Sanyo models. I have had all of them from time to time and still have most models now except the M50. I guess I like the challenge of fixing the Sony units plus I have circuits for them, especially the SLHF950s. I now have circuits for most of the Sanyos as well. Heaps to fix!

cheers Noel

NEED BETA V-DISK ASSY/VIDEO HEAD REPLACEMENT KIT. I HAVE PLENTY ON SALE AT EBAY.PAL AND NTSC HIGH-DEV ALSO INDUSTRIAL BETA TYPE of Rotary Head.

Regards Boby.

Stuart:I also thought i'd ad considering your shortish time with the Beta format that's very good advice you offer on manually cleaning the video heads.I have been a fan of betamax since purchasing my very first beta machine in 1982 the Sanyo VTC 5000. That machine was really impressive considering the amount i paid £299.Very cheap for that time.I have since owned the following a NEW Toshiba V31B in 1983. Despite good performance from picture and audio it ruined 6 of my tapes that my Sanyo 5000 looked after well.This was due to the always laced up FF and REW.It also started to bump and struggle in the fast wind modes after a year.The bottom of the tape path guides must have moved too as it made substandard recordings that could'nt be played on ANY Beta apart from itself without a tracking noise bar moving up and down the tv screen.NOT IMPRESSED).Then i moved up to a NEW Sanyo VTC M20 in 1985 £399.This machine really was a workhorse and the only issues i had was a split bottom idler tyre ,within the guarantee period,and the reel motor bearing became noisy.Everything else was perfect for many years and still is.Then i had the opportunity to get hold of a Sanyo VTC M30 for a NEW bargain price of £239 (RRP was £499)in 1987.This was probably down to Beta's serious demise then and shops wanted rid of them.I always liked the look of that model ( still do) and it was one of the more feature laden Sanyo Beta's.It has proved trouble free (and being a 3 head machine has excellent clear still frame and slow motion) in every way and i've just replaced the idlers and belts and gave everything a good overhaul.The along came E-Bay and boy did that open up a whole new world for me.I have managed to obtain 2 X Sanyo VTC M40 's in MINT shape ( one was a ex service engineer standby machine so spent most of it's life in it's box) the other was a Australian M40 that i obtained a UK tuner for and they both are MINT in every way.The picture and sound are impressive.I have since purchased a Sanyo VTC M10 and VTC 6500 that are now perfect in every way too.(they needed some love).I worked for Sanyo between 1985 and 1989 when they were assembling the Budget VTC NX100 Betamax vcr and that was Sanyo's last foray in the UK for Beta.They also released a VTC M50 with stereo tuner Beta Hi-Fi machine for Australia and other European countries but we in the UK never got.It was smarter looking then the VTC M40. They also released in 1986 their slimmest Betamax the Sanyo VTC7250 SuperBeta.I own one of those too in MINT shape despite being NTSC and it's a very stylish machine that would've been a healthy alternative to Sony's SLHF950 SuperBeta.Sanyo were releasing VHS models under their own name at that time so we lost out.I'm still annoyed somewhat about that.i have also had in my possession ( from E-Bay) a MINT lightly used Sony SLHF950 Superbeta and their other praiseworthy attempt the SLHF100. Both worked flawlessly but i sold them on( for VERY good prices) as i've never been happy with the always laced feature since my experiences with the Toshiba.It gave me the chance to view their performance and i was'nt disappointed.The Sony's do suffer from problems that are hard to sort or difficult to get parts for so that's another reason why i let them go in top condition.Most prefer Sony to Sanyo and we've all got our reasons why we like what we do.I would say where picture quality is concerned some Sanyo models are a tad less defined that some Sony's but Sony mono machines audio tracks sound more compressed and have more tape 'hiss'.Sanyo's most of the time sound clear and concise and are certainly not muffled.A Sanyo vcr is also a lot easier to get parts for and work on and they do last in the head department a lot longer than Sony.Sony's are wonderfully over engineered but they do look the part.The faulty VU level meters on their top line models being a strange annoying issue.It IS a noticeable observation.I now find myself regularly overhauling and servicing Sanyos and have helped and assisted many a old or new Beta fan in many ways.They are always delighted and what i do i do thoroughly.I also enjoy it, that's the most important thing.Getting a vcr overhauled these days is nigh on impossible (and some will rip you off just to 'look' at a machine) as i'm sure Noel would agree.So i've taken this aspect on board too.If i can assist or advise/help in ANY way i will.The older Sanyo's VTC 9300, 5400,5300 and 5600 i havn't any experience with and they stay laced up too so i avoid those but their newer /later models are well worth it.One thing i have noticed is there are a LOT who still appreciate the Beta format for whatever reason ( better picture, smaller tapes, happy memories) and i'm glad that we all did'nt dump our gear because it was the 'right thing to do'and 'old hat,defunct'.Yes i also own top of the range Sanyo VHS models and they have proved extremley reliable. I had to as the movie rental opportunites made this a reality for me.The models i have are Sanyo VHR 4890e Super VHS,Sanyo VHR190e nicam ASO,Sanyo VHRd500 Digital effects and Sanyo VHR 874e digital View scan.They are all fine performers even for VHS.It's also interesting to note Sanyo became a lot more upmarket when they released their VHS models and changed their old logo for the newer with a neptune styled 'N'.They were releasing designs and features way ahead of other manufacturers.it made me wonder what upgrades and performance enhancements were to be like if they had continued Beta like they stated in 1986.I think we all new then the 'righting was on the wall'.In the meantime Betamax is still fairly healthy and the machines were WELL made.those cheapy VHS 'bargains' are really light and flimsy and not built to last many years i would'nt of thought.I'm glad i have what i do now because ,i know from experience , they will be working well for many years to come.As for recordable DVD, yet another incomatability war is looming, i think i'll sit this one out.I hope you enjoyed my personal mumblings and i hope knowone got bored .........if you have and questions feel free to e-mail me anytime.I'm always happy to assist.That's what i do best......................Kevin

Hi Noel,Would the c9 as manual also be good for the ub model and if I bid how much would shipping to uk be please?

Hi guys.

Some interesting comment about cleaning tapes. Yes, better not to overuse them. I learnt that lesson when I killed a very low hours video 8 macine with a "dry" cleaning tape. I followed the instructions but the heads died very prematurely. Head replacement cost $350.

By the way, I have a number of beta service manuals for sale. SLC9, SLC35, SLC7, SLC6, SLF1 and SLF30. See http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180138865517&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=008

Cheers Noel

Thanks Kevin, your comments are appreciated. I only got my first ever beta late last year at the age of 32. I only remember seeing a beta deck before that back when I was about 9! But its true what they say, it is a far better format than vhs and I now use a sony hf100 or my hf950 in preferance to dreaded vhs, connected to my digital tv box! I have bout a bucket load of ultra hig grade tapes, either sony uhg or tdk hdx-pro. I only use standard grade ones for testing machines after any repairs I do. I am new3 to betamax, I admit that, and the machine I am most familiar with is the c9 - I have done some fairly extensive repairs on one recently but am still learning!