Thank you Guys. I hadn't thought about the state of my tapes. The strange thing is that after the machine has been switched off for a while, the first tape I play is ok as long as I don't stop it or fast forward/rewind. On your advice I think I will try and play each tape only once so that I can digitise them. Trouble is I have lots and I don't really want to copy everything. Fortunately I found a little book with the tapes containing what is recorded on each tape. How efficient (sad) was I 25 years ago!!! Wish me luck!

Hello Ray,

The Sony SL-C6AS is a PAL system VCR only.

Brendan

Hi. Anyone know if a Betamax SL-C6AS will play NTSC tapes? The 'AS' on end of model number stands for 'Australian' according to this site, so maybe same as SL-C6?

Hey folks.

I'm trying to revive my parent's SL-C7 UB. The symptoms are strange, the clock is powered up and OK, but nothing else is getting any power. So, that leads me to suspect the power supply, I've stripped it down and replaced ALL of the caps on it, but I made a boo-boo. I missed one, and now I don't know what value it should have.

PSU board SR-08-1, cap C215. If anyone can help me out then I'd really appreciate it.

Cheers,Craig.

Is there anyone in Devon or Cornwall willing to try and fix faulty betamax vcr's

Kevin - thanks for the tip - I will give it a thorough clean-up tonight. The audio sounds fine so must be the control track secion of the ACE...

Graham

Simon,

I've just poked around my VTC 5000 to get inspiration... if you are getting no output it is possible that the connector to power up the video head pre-amp may have come loose or a cracked solder joint. I would advise that you check all cables to the boards. If you are just getting static (as if un-tuned) on playback that could be the cables from the video head themselves. As per Kevin's suggestion if you are pulling the video and udio vis bnc and phono connectors check that the solder joints and track are good - they do get damaged from the push/pull of cables.

Graham

Hi Grahame:

I worked on one with a similar fault.The control track head needed a good clean.

Simon:

Your VTC 5000 .When you describe this do you mean you get a tuner (or static with noise) when switching the Tuner/input switch to 'tuner' and nothing when playing tapes back?

Could be many things,but no sound OR picture is rare.Could be a cracked board (the one at the bottom).bad BNC connectors .I've even seen the BNC/phono connection board once with a huge crack on the rear.

Let me know................Kevin

I have a box of 13 x BETAMAX Cassettes that all contain recordings of TISWAS on them from the year 1981 , theres also some other programs after each show on each cassette. Included in the sale is a DVD transfer of each cassette in full. 13 x DVDs. Asking £60 for the BETAMAX Cassettes and £39 for the DVD transfers

GRUNDIG 2x4 SUPER V2000 VCR Working for sale with cassettes (all have old programs recorded on them) £150 including cassettes. Also Philips N1700 VCR in good working order with video out for sale £225 . Would post worldwide if buyer pays courier costs.

Hi there,

I've got a Sony SL-c6 Mk2 which plays tapes great but when you record and then play back its own recordings it plays the table at about 80% of the right speed causing the playback to show noise bars.

Has anyone got any ideas? I've replaced all the caps on the SS9 board and the playback of tapes not recorded on it is crisp, clear and the right speed

Graham

Hi there,i have a sanyo vtc 5000 which all of a sudden has no picture or sound on playback but when i switch to test signal the sound appears switch it back then nothing,can anybody help thanks

Hello thinking of buying a betamax, preferbally a sony but dont know which one to buy. A C7? i want a very good one! i like sany VTC5ooos but are they not as good quality as a sony i would like a sony HLF 1ooo hifi which one gives the best picture and sound?thanks george

Hi all,

if you Sony SL-C6 is exibition slow capstan spped and you can't increase the speed enough with the variable resistor RV1 on the SS( servo board then replace caps C7 and C8. They are 0.22uF 50v Radial.

graham

I'm no expert just love tinkering with 70's and early 80s videos! :O) Stops me from browsing the internet/watching TV..

Graham

Graham,

it looks like you got your C6 in good working order again.

Congratulations from my modest knowledge of this matter.

Regards,

Thanks guys for the responses... I've now had to replace the 1uF cap at C54 on SS9 board on three C6 's and wanted to understand the effect of this cap going bad....

From what I can see a 25Hz rectangular wave is generated and passed into a phase delay circut which is controlled by the Drum Free Speed adjustment (RV9) and then passed into the CX-186 servo chip. This is then pushed thru a gate in that chip and back out as a modified wave form via R105 and C54(the troublesome Sanyo 1uF) . This wave form is used as a reference to control the drum speed.

So the upshot of the above is when that cap goes bad it lowers the frequency of the waveform controlling the drum speed. The drum tries to correct itself and gets into a feedback loop causing the regular drop in drum speed then rises as it corrects then over-corrects, under corrects and so on..

All this bother for a 20 pence cap..

Graham

Hi Graham:

In total agreement with you about the 'you see this so often you start to look and change things out as a matter of course'.

Sanyo Beta's don't suffer with servo issue as do the Sony's (mainly with the C6 which had a not so good design in that area).Sony's too need all caps checked as a matter of course in the PSU.The VTC 5000 on the Sanyo's are usually known now for bad caps in the clock power area and sometimes two or three others.Sanyo beta's issues are usually mechanical through old rubber items and dirt and filth together with dry bearings,really bad tapes used over many years use and then storage in sometimes not so good conditions (cold /damp).Not to mention the many i see with owners 'having a go' and making things really bad and losing vital items, putting things back incorrectly,stripping screw heads, spraying WD40 everywhere!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! e.t.c.

You see the same thing over and over.Occasionally a rogue IC but that is quite rare.

I'm happy to say the ones i've given the 'right treatment' too are still being used and the new owners very, very impressed.As am i.

..............Kevin

Hi Graham:

In total agreement with you about the 'you see this so often you start to look and change things out as a matter of course'.

Sanyo Beta's don't suffer with servo issue as do the Sony's mainly with the C6 which had a not so good design in that area.Sony's too need all caps checked as a matter of course in the PSU.The VTC 5000 on the Sanyo's are usually known now for bad caps in the clock power area and sometimes two or three others.Sanyo beta's issues are usually mechanical through old rubber items and dirt and filth together dry bearings,really bad tapes used over many years use and then storage in sometimes not so good conditions (cold /damp).Not to mention the many i see with owners 'having a go' and making things really bad and losing vital items, putting things back incorrectly,stripping screw heads, spraying WD40 everywhere!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! e.t.c.

You see the same thing over and over.Occasionally a rogue IC but that is quite rare.

I'm happy to say the ones i've given the 'right treatment' too are still being used and the new owners very, very impressed.As am i.

..............Kevin

Kevin,

It's a question of experience (and tons of patience) to get to fix most issues related to beta VCRs, specially Sony. But every single time one spots a new 'trick' or fix on these machines, it becomes something really pleasant.

On the other hand, it is quite annoying when someone has previously fiddled inside the video with no idea, messing with everything, misaligning tape paths and breaking delicate parts. Some time ago, I arranged buying 15-20 betas from a guy at a really good price. Some of them are so fiddled that I keep them for spares.

Regarding to servos and pot adjustments, I follow the same 'rule of thumb' as you: marking the original position with a permanent ink pen.

By the way, I will post my progresses here in this board. I'm learning a lot.

Thanks, as always.

Thanks kevin for the advice. I've already had the soldered cables break off the SS-9 board in a C6 where i've open and closed the board many times when replacing components. Was tempted to replace with proper connectors..

Last night i got my best C6 out of long-term storage to power up (to keep the caps running happy) and lo-and-behold speed deviations on the drum and the capstain running slow - that is all three C6 's with this.. 0.10 and 0.68 caps finally arriveed so spent the evening till 1am replacing all the caps I could on the SS9 board (this is starting to get like De-ja vu and i'm rapidly becoming an expert on this SS9 circuit board!) Drum now stable but i'm waiting for 0.22 caps to come in for the capstan circuit to replace on 3 machines..

I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that i'm going to replace *all* Sanyo caps on all three machines on *any* board just to be on the safe side.

Also finally worked out what was going on with the Mk2 C6 with only clock working but no power to the rest of the machine (except the tuner selector). The Transistor Q255 and Diode D251 on the power board TP-12 are fried (not visibly) and have ordered new ones.. See page 42 of the service manual http://www.beta7.co.uk/uploaded/documents/sl-c6e-sm.pdf

It seems that the circuit that these two components power the TP14 on/standby/timer switches which then switch the main IC001 regulator which then powers the main regulater 12v lines within the rest of the boards.. With these two down no power to the main switches thank christ for the service manual.

Graham

Hi Grahame and Gabriel:

The thing with servo adjustments on some of the Sony's is if you don't get it spot on it will trip the vcr out.I don't use any type of test meter,you my be surprised to here, for these adjustments.It's a matter of having lot's of patience and moving it slightly until you feel confident you have it at center point.You will notice this by looking at the tv picture on playback.Your eyes can inform you more i think than going by electrical adjustments.(Used to do the job very quickly, at the factories).I have adjusted and got to perfection many of the Sony and Sanyo Beta's and it does come with experience to know what exactly you are looking for.This is fine for the servo areas but i would'nt recommend doing it that way with some of the video processing and recording areas unless you really know what you are doing.In any case ALWAYS make a visible mark BEFORE you adjust any of the pots to make sure you know exactly where to place it if it has'nt the desired effect.The only way to be sure.Service manuals too are a must as this highlights all the areas you need to focus on for the individual adjustments,correct boards e.t.c.

Also take note of connector solder points where the boards hinge up as i've seen dry joints on some as the wires were a bit tight before being hinged up by others and it ultimatley breaks the solder points.Cracks to boards are another issue too,sometimes unnoticed.

Good luck guys and keep up the great efforts.

.....................Kevin

Hi all, I've tracked down service manual for the SL-C6 Mk1 which has already yielded answers to some of the problems with my 3 C6 machines..

The link to the PDF is on my site http://www.beta7.co.uk/uploaded/documents/sl-c6e-sm.pdf

Hope this helps others trying to fix their machines.

Graham

Hi Kevin,

I completely agree with the idea of 'having fun' when spotting issues. With patience, a service manual and adequate tools - including jigs, test tapes and so on :-( - everything is possible. By the way, I have recently purchased a video head checker. Sooner or later I will be measuring video heads so as to evaluate their wear.

Regarding this F30, I don't think the capstan (nor its servo circuits) are faulty. For me, when audio is good, especially with music/videoclips, it's a proof that the "twinset" capstan-pinch roller is working OK. Maybe I am assuming something wrong with this. I have to check some servo signals with the schematics, trying to find something strange around the components you have previously pointed.

Pd: main servo IC seems to have been changed in the past (fresher, more brilliant soldering pins). Maybe this could help as a clue.

Thanks a lot,

Gabriel

Hi kevin,

Thanks for coming back to me on this.. Ok so i've been fiddling with RV1 (the only clear coloured RV) to try to get a decent pic... so... I've got the Mk2 SS9 board. Do you think that if I take the resistance of the RV1 on the Mk2 and set the Mk1 to exactly the same as the Mk2 this would get it spot on? Or do you think that at the factory these were adjusted to the specific machine (ie variations in the head motor specs etc?

I've got on order 0.47uf, 0.10uf and 0.22uf caps so as soon as they are in i'll change them on the board.. all the other standard caps across the board have been replaced..

Graham

Grahame:

When replacing those caps on the C6 servo area ( all the light blue color ones and one or two others that surround the IC), there is one ot in particular you have to get spot on otherwise the picture will gradually lose sync and roll and then go back to normal.It's RV1 (or 301) i believe.The pot color is usually black.I have successfully sorted out about 5 of the C6 's with those issues and in every other way are perfect.You can even refresh the idlers as many hav'nt seen that much useage that i've seen.Also with the c6 the main sound processor can give issues too with too low or no sound at all.

............Kevin

Hi Gabriel:

In regards to your two Sony F30 queries.

Capstan motor fluctuation can be caused by either C316 or IC303 (UPC455BC).I too have here a Sony F30 whereby there is no output to the drum motor and the capstan goes superfast.I believe the main servo IC to be the culprit.

As for the no color issues.I can give you the two main color prossesing IC's on the YC31 board.They are IC006 (CX10021b-NP) and IC3003 (CX10023).This is by no means a cure but occasionally IC's can be responsible.There are also capacitors and transistors around these that could be responsible too.Not to mention dry joints e.t.c.i wish i had access to a definitive answer.That's part of the 'fun' in finding out:)

Good luck...................Kevin

Hi everyone,

I have been servicing today a Sony SL-F30 with unstable image, losing sync randomly. I have checked the pinch roller (also swapped with a 'fresher' one) and the capstan. However, sound seems to be correct with no fluctuation. I suspect from the servo drum, but not sure if it is caused from bad capacitors or it's some kind of adjustment (drum free speed adj?).

Also, this VCR was showing image on B/W. What I always do is changing the bottom PCB, containing the chroma process and it gets fixed. Does anyone know the typical faulty component(s) on this board? Maybe some Sony 'CXnnnn' series IC?

Thanks a lot,

Gabriel

Hi all,

I've just documented all the capacitors on a Sony SL-c6 (Mk1 or Mk2) SS-9 board. The link is http://www.r11txe.co.uk/uploaded/c6-ss9-caplist.xls and Gives Cap Number, Location, Rating, Cap type etc...

Double checked between two C6 boards (mk1 and mk2) and they are identical.Hope this helps someone.

Graham

Thanks Breandan for the info - I replaced the Sanyo caps aroudn the servo chip one by one and when I replaced the 1uf sanyo cap (C54 I think) the drum speed was way too high so adjusted the RV down to mid-point and the picture is much more stable but still goes slightly off-lock about once every second (the colour phasing trips out). I've repaced as many of the radial caps as I had spares for (all the 47uf, 2.2uf, 10uf, 100uf, 220uf) but still no joy on capstan speed or drum speed. Is there anything I should look out for on the DR1 board?

Graham

Hello Graham,

Any of the blue Sanyo electrolytic capacitors on the bottom circuit board in the capstan and drum sections. Tantalums can also be problematic, I have never needed to replace those.

Brendan

Just realised my bad spelling on my last post...

HI all,

I've just bought two betamax decks from ebay - a Sony SL-C6 and a SL-C6 mk2. Both with faults.

The C6 Mk2 powers up and the clock works and if you press the on button but nothing happens - no Power On light and no buttons work ( except when it is "on" you can change the channels on the channel selector and the channel lights change). All the fuses are good.

The C6 mk1 after replacing the rubber and a good head clean up I can get an unstable picture. The head seems to slow down momentarily with the picture coming off-lock then speeds back up (deviating drum speeds). This gets worse and faster the longer you leave it running. To get this far i've increase the free drum speed RV to the max as the original setting was about midway which was far to slow. The AC head has been cleaned as well and dosent show any wear. I've read that the capacitors around the servo chip need replacing Could someone specify which ones as there are many around that chip?. So as a quick way to test after checking the SS9 C6 Mk2 board out decided to swap out the SS9 board and it still has the same symptoms!. Also the Capstan speed on the C6 Mk1 is much slower - i've increased the capstain speed vai the RV on the SS9 board to the max but it dosent seem to get up to speed properly

Can anyone point me in the right direction on these two machines? the C6 Mk2 transport is is pristine condition with minimal head wear but the C6 Mk2 is a bit tired - would like to get either of these machines working well to stop me using my Sony SL8000 too much.

Thanks

Graham [email protected]

HI all,

I've just bought two betamax desk from ebay - A SL-c6 and a SL-C6 mk2. Both with faults.

The C6 Mk2 powers up and whows a working and if you press the on button nothing happens (no on light and no buttons work) except you can change the channels on the channel selector and the channel light change. All the fuses are good.

The C6 mk1 after replacing the rubber and a good head clean up I can get an unstable picture. The head seems to slow down momentarily with the picture coming off-lock then speeds back up. THis gets worse and faster the longer you leave it running. To get this far i've increase the free drum speed RV to the max as the original setting was about midway which was far to slow. The AC head has been cleaned as well and dosent show any wear. I've read that the capacitors around the servo chip need replacing. So as a quick way to test after checking the board out decided to swap out the SS9 board with the C6 Mk2 board and it still has the same symptoms!. Also the Capstan speed onthe C6 Mk1 is much slower - i've increased the capstain speed on the SS9 board to the max but it dosent seem to get up to speed properly

Can anyone point me in the right direction on these two machines? the C6 Mk2 transport is is pristine condition with minimal head wear but the C6 Mk2 is a bit tired - would like to get eitehr of these machines working well to stop me using my SL8000 too much.

Thanks

[email protected]

dJz0kR Thanks so much for the blog article.Really looking forward to read more. Much obliged.

The mains filter capacitor (usually orange).Was known to fail a lot and in the Sanyo VTC 5000 in the early eighties ,usually down to spikes in the mains supply and using those horrible three way plug junctions.Also check any fusible resistors.Also worth checking is the mains plug fuse and if the clamps to the wires are tight.I've seen this a few times too.

.......Kevin

I also have a VTC 9300 with a rewind fault. It will not rewind. Nor will the rewind key stay depressed. Would this be a servo fault?

Cheers

Hello all,

I have a dead V-33. Fuse is intact. What would be recommended to check?

Cheers

Hi all, what to do with cardboard beta sleeves! I have many beta tapes that I've picked up at different places over the past 16 years and many of the sleeves I took off and put in a big separate pile with the anticipation of cleaning them up later, mainly to remove labels and also clean dust off. I've cleaned some of them but its too time consuming and I'm tired of looking at them. I'm thinking of burning them all up in the fireplace. Any thoughts/ideas on this, is it really worth it to save them? Probably about 75% of my beta tapes do not have the sleeves and they still work ok.

Kevin,

Thanks a lot. Most of checks you pointed were already done, including re-greasing the skate gears (I dismantled that whole assembly because of a seized DC motor -Mabuchi RS280-). I think that this 950 is ready to use again and enjoy its fantastic features.

Today, I am working with a SL-F30 beta. It suffers from a stopped drum motor (hall sensor, but I have found a replacement for this) and a strange behaviour with the solenoid switching the eject and thread modes:

Often, that solenoid works OK, while sometimes it blocks and keeps open or locked. After cleaning that element, I suspect of any bent component in the surrounding. Springs seem to be well (including the one attached to the end sensor which tends to loose due to a cracked plastic point). This fault leads to erratic behaviour when ejecting and threading, damaging the tapes.

Regards,

Gabriel

Gabriel:

Well done.it's nice when you finally get it to work A1 again.I know that feeling very well:)As for other issues,non other then the norm,PSU area,pinch roller.That metal bracket (for the cassette latch unlocking) i mentioned.Back/forward tension check.Re lubing the bearings to the idler.The reel bearings are different on this model.The dreaded glue on the hall effect sensor.I also like to re grease the skating mechanism gears too.That's about it i think:)

...................Kevin

Hi Derek:

You will have to carefully unsolder the tracking control from the board.With a tiny flat screwdriver lift up the four metal tabs at the back of the control pot and disassemble it.You will notice on doing this one or both of the small metal potentiometer guides will fall out.They have to be very carefully glued in place with a tiny drop of very strong clear,quick drying super/indsutrial type glue(the finger or raised silver parts must point outwards and it must sit over what is left of the two tiny plastic pins).It helps to hold these together after glueing with small pliers. Do not attempt to put the pieces back together until you are sure the glue has dried out thoroughly.The only thing holding those silver parts onto the plastic when new, are two very small plastic pins each side that are heated to stop the plates moving or falling off.Some end up doing just that rendering the tracking useless if one side fails or not clicking into center if the other side fails.This type was the worst Sanyo ever used on their Beta's. The failure rate is high.However if repairing them correctly i have yet to have it fail again.The 5000,5150,6500,M10/20 and to some extent NX100 were all more reliable.I have seen three or four NX100 's needing this but it's only one part on one side as the tracking pot is a different design.

Good luck.....................Kevin

HI MAYBE SOMEONE CAN HELP I NEED ALL CABLE FOR SONY DXC-M7P THANKS

Heya

Re: Sanyo VTC-M40 Tracking Adjuster. Yes it is still in the machine and I am in Australia. What would the repair method be?

Thanks

Kevin,

The 950 has surprisingly improved the rewinding torque just by deeply cleaning the upper drum. It makes a good difference. It was like the tape was sticking the drum. Next step will be testing the hifi sound in playback/recording modes just in case hifi heads were worn. Is there any something special to check in this model, apart from the "typical cares" of a Sony?

Thanks a lot for your help,

Gabriel

Hello,

Is a loss of colour on a HF 77 due to worn video heads? Hi Fi is perfect. As is the B/W picture. Colour was intermittent, now gone completely. Same symptoms on record and playback. Heads have been cleaned.

Brendan

Derek:

Is the tracking adjuster still in the vcr.You can repair them successfully.I've just done that on a otherwise MINT M40. Are you in Australia or the UK?

........................Kevin

Gabriel:

What position is the back tension arm in?The silver pin rod should appear between the two white rails in the play mode.try pushing it outwards with your finger when the tape struggles in REW.Also does the tape 'chug' somewhat when it struggles?If so it's probably a worn upper drum.Sounds to me like that 950 has had some rough treatment in the past.Another thing to look out for on that model is the metal right angled bracket to the right that unlocks the cassette flap catch.is that bent in anyway.It should be straight and at a perfect right angle.

Nigel:

Re reading my comments also if dry joints are the issue it can affect the problem when heated up too.

Jamie:

I actually worked on a M40 a year or two ago with those issues you describe and could find no fault other than heads! (one thing you can do to overcome that somewhat is push the audio selection switch to the output channel that is OK.You will get the good quality hi-Fi duplicated on both channels but sadly it won't be stereo.Still a lot better than the monaural edgetrack.

..............Kev

G'day

The Hifi heads in the VTC-M40 that I have are superb. I dont have any tracking adjustment tho due to faulty tracking adjuster. Any idea how to fix this. Recording is still excellent without this function.

Derek

Good evening,

This week I´ve been servicing a SL-HF950 with different issues (bad PSU, cracked gears, broken "skate" plastic rail, broken eject rotary switch, bad DC motor!...) and after cleaning and checking that picture and sound are OK, I realize that it suffers from poor rewind torque. I mean, the video is able to rewinding most of the tape, but when reaching the beginning, it slows down and it eventually stops.

Proven that FFWD and PB operation are correct(smooth, clean) and the flat pancake motor does not seem to be worn (at least, coils are not rubbed). Pinch roller is also in good shape.

Is there any adjustment (mechanical or electrical) for this kind of problem?

Regards,

Pd: surprisingly, all vumeter leds are OK.

Thanks Kevin,

That's what I was thinking. I don't have a great deal of experience with servicing beta's but it sounds more of an electronic issue rather than the hifi heads, especially as its the left channel only affected. I'll have to take a look some time and see if I can fix it. I hope it isn't the heads otherwise I might have a m40 up as spares lol.

I wish there was somebody who made these heads still, its such a waste seeing these machines go to scrap over heads.

Thanks Kevin,

I will follow your excellent advice.

All the best,Nigel

Hi Nigel:

That sounds like a typical effect of a dry joint somewhere.As the area heats up the connection get's better.I would make sure though that all caps in the PSU are at their best first though.You can eliminate that from the equation.

Derek:

The M40 heads are very long lasting but i have seen 5 M40 's now with bad Hi-Fi heads.The picture on 4 being very good still.Also you mention the sound being faulty on one channel.Now that does sound suspicious to me.There could be an issue with a component or dry joint in the tiny Hi-Fi amplifier to the immediate left of the head drum.It has and earth wire coming from it one side and i red connector the other.It's a small silver can.You slide it upwards and disconnect those wires.I've seen dry joints inside this to a transistor a couple of times.You could try that.Sadly i too have found that unless someone knew a old service engineer and was given new hi-Fi heads the PAL type are indeed history now.NTSC ones as you know use the same heads for picture and Hi-Fi sound.So those should be easier to source.

Good luck to both of you.

.................Kevin

Hi Derek,

The video heads in the VTC-M40 as per the service manual are either 143-0-242V-21000 or 143-0-242V-21100. I have also done quite a bit of research into these heads. It appears that they have not been available for quite some time, and there doesn't seem to be a third party company manufacturing them either.

G'day

I have a Sanyo VTC M40 Beta Hifi. I'm curious to know where to buy the main video head from and how much they are. Seems to be a great machine audio and video wise, any idea how long heads are supposed to last? Any advice appreciated. Thanks

Hi all,

Just a quick question. Have a fault with a Sanyo VTC-M40 relating to hifi audio. When I playback a pre-recorded tape or one recorded on a good machine, right channel is perfect but left channel audio is virtually non existant (can be heard slightly when volume turned right up). When I make a recording on this machine, right channel again is perfect but left channel is loud but very distorted. Not sure if this could be an electrical fault or head related.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Thanks James,

Well I may as well try them because I have against all odds been able to find a place who has one single pair of brand new DSR49R heads left in stock and only charged me $20 AU for them, so if they work I'll be over the moon. I'll report back on the outcome.

Good advice James, thanks.

Jamie,

To be honest I am not sure what the difference is. Other than the sound is different in Australia compared to the UK (That’s on the tuner side of things)Perhaps the DSR49R heads are a later revision that fits the HF100.

I am sure someone else here will have a better answer for you.

NigelI would replace the caps as bad caps could result in damage to other components.Knowing I have bad caps in my SLO-1700 I will not use until I have replaced all caps within the PSU…

James

Thanks for the advice James. It is worth noting that my machine does actually switch on after about a minute of hissing. It then works 100% picture and sound.

Thank you Kevin, the hi-fi sound is OK once the machine starts up. I was talking about the sound monitored through the unit. Haven't had any problems with sound since you tuned it up for me.

So I can either leave it alone and hope the PSU keeps working (after a minute!) or tackle the problem head-on with a full electrolytic recap. As I say, it works OK once it comes on so that must be telling me something :)

Thanks James for such a quick response. Would that then mean that DSR49R are not suitable as a replacement in this machine?

Jamie,

The heads you are seeking are the DSR48R (A-6762-165-A)

James

Hi,

Does anybody know which heads the SL-HF100AS takes? The heads listing page on Palsite shows heads for SLHF100UB as DSR49R and for SHLF100ES as being DSR48R. There isn't a listing for the AS model.

Thanks in advance.

Oh and one other thing, the back tension setting is important too.You really need the torque tape for the Sony's, especially for the forward torque which is normally out a bit. and the Sanyo's are usually fine....Unless fiddled with.

.....................Kev

Hi Gabriel,Nigel and James.

Nigel,If it's a bad hi-Fi then it usually IS the heads.be it dirty or well worn.One way to know for sure is check they are clean ( usually a great picture quality should verify this).Then make a recording on good quality ( newer the better) tape.Whilst playing this back turn the tracking control to the full extremes slowly and observe at what point ( if any )the Hi-Fi sound drops out (so you can only hear the mono edgetrack sound).If those Hi-Fi heads are n great order you should get no interference at either sweep of the tracking control). If they are wearing down lightly, you will get the hi-Fi sound disappearing just before the tracking reaches the full sweep at either end).Obviously the tracking control will need to be fully working as well (normally an issue with some Sanyo M40 's which can be repaired).Also on some vcr's i've seen the setting up of the control track/mono audio head is out slightly, meaning you will need to adjust the tracking quite a lot for recordings made on other vcr's all the time.I make sure on any i see it perfectly centered so the tracking is in 99% of the cases left in the center.This would affect the hi-Fi even more if this was so.

Gabriel:

Like yourself i see the same things over and over and like you state, i mentally know exactly where to look straight away.You can get the odd rogue failing cap but most i see are consistent.I have also seen on two occasions the big main cap on a Sanyo VTC5000 failed causing huge hum bars to go up the tv screen and also the 100uf 100v hat supplies the tuner board( now defunct) that causes snow all over the tv picture with no tuning possible.

I am at this moment looking at alternatives for the common hall effect sensor failings on the Sony's ( i always remove all glue on ones working ok as soon as possible to avoid this failure), and also those tiny black tape loading gears ,which split and ultimately slip on the C20, 30,40 ,HF100 & F30. I also agree with you about Sanyo's bomb proof designs ( albeit considered and older one then the super complex Sony).The rubber components will always need a refresh but the complete removing of all mechanicals at the front for a good clean ,check and regrease IS the way to go here.As is the removal and strip down of the capstan motor and a good clean of the shaft and pinch roller and relube of the top and bottom bearings with one tiny drop of oil.Then there's the audio head azimuth check and record playback output( compared to a good digital feed) should help get these classics to a good reliable and pleasing service for quite a good more years.

Hope this helps guys...............Kev

Nigel,

Going by what you have said here and in an email to me I would recommend replacing all the caps within the PSU, even the ones in DC to DC converter.

My SLO-1700 had problems with the sound on the HiFi side of things before I replaced a number of caps in the PSU since then I have seen an improvement with sound since I replaced the caps in the DC to DC converter and in the PSU.

If the heads are badly worn you will have bad HiFi sound.

James

Kevin,

Thanks a lot for sharing your 'know-how' about Betas' PSUs.

Curiously, I am finding clear examples of what you are showing: a dead SL-HF950 MK-II (I had a spare PSU for it, but still fails on tape ejecting and rewinding), a C9 with no display (DC-DC with its terrible housing) and C30s with wavy lines through the picture.

I am thinking about creating a 'routine service sheet' for every model so as not to forget checking vital points. For example, in a Sony you cannot forget checking the sensor controlling the drum. But I need some amount of time that I don't have right now...

For me, Sanyos are much better machines with best engineer solutions than Sonys (in general, no solenoids, no cracking gears, no bad head wear, less energy consumption...). And most Sanyo cures are based on belts change and inspection/cleaning.

Regards,

Gabriel

Hi Kevin,

Nice to talk to you once more and thanks again for looking after my SLO-1700 last year.

Do you think replacing all or most of the electrolytics in the PSU block will solve the problem? Also do you think a power supply problem like this would cause any degradation in the sound quality?

All the best,Nigel

Hi Betaphiles:

Interesting notes/comments you make.

From my experience with the Sony and Sanyo beta's.As far as the PSU supplies go Sony's do tend to suffer more than the Sanyo's.Out of the many i have catered for and brought to 110% order.The C9 is the worst in this respect ,especially the DC to DC.It also pays to check and ultimatley change quite a lot in the PSU BEFORE anything else get's damaged.Usually transitors.The SLHF950 seems to be suffering in this area now too and will damage a particular transistor if left too long.The C20 / 30 models tends to have one or two of the smaller electro caps failing ,usually causing wavy lines through the picture.The F30 also usually has three or four that are failing.The HF100 usually has quite a few going or gone bad in the dc to dc area too

On to the Sanyo's The worst for failing electro caps in the PSU is the VTC 5000. This is always in the clock display supply area.This may be as this model was likely powered up and in use for quite a few years.The 5150 i have yet to encounter bad caps or ones that have failed.The 'M' series are usually pretty good too.The NX100 always has one failed next too the heat shield ,nearest to the mains transformer.heat is always the cause of theses capacitor failings.

I make it a rule to always check all out now on any vcr i resurrect/service as this will ensure the other areas are given their maximum and correct power supply.It should also guarantee somewhat against any unexpected or catastrophic failings later on.Also always go for reputable brand Electrolytic caps and ones rated at 105 degrees.

Good luck guys and keep up the good work.

..................Kevin

Hi Nigel,

Yes I sorted the original problem which was the DC to DC converter had bad capacitor's.

Yes I sorted the original problem which was the DC to DC converter.I had to open the metal case and then replace all the small capacitors inside...

But I now have to replace the capacitors within the power supply as there is now a noise due to the load not being handled and there is a bad smell coming from it... I have replaced of the capacitors but I have to get one from eBay as I cannot find the right size capacitor here locally.

My SLO-1700 does work and will need adjusting but I will wait till I sort out the power supply...

James.

Talking about SLO-1700 power supply of course :)

Hi James, I have the same problem just started. Hissing sound like gas leaking. The machine is dead at first then comes on after about a minute and is then OK. I believe the hissing sound is the switch mode power supply without a load so that part is probably OK. Some capacitor is probably failing and is slowly charging up, the power relay then eventually receives the correct voltage and switches on. Did you sort your problem? All the best,Nigel

Actually the questionable arm has nothing to do with back tension. I think it is just a form of tape sensor to detect slackness. Having said that, in my other C6, the arm does not move at all once against the tape in playback. But the one I have replaced the rubber in moves about a little. Could this be a capstan stabilty problem? Not noticeable in playback but noticeable arm movements. The capstan servo still contains Sanyo caps.

Brendan

Hello all,

I have corrected the problem. A small section of the tyre on the take up reel was sticking out slighty. However the back tension arm still moves a little during playback. Would I need to slighty increase take up torque because of the new rubber fitted?

Brendan

Hello all,

Just replaced all the rubber in a SL-C6. But it has developed a problem. Upon playback, within a few seconds, the back tension arm continually moves inward. Eventually so much so causing a tape loop and the VCR to stop. The short playback is perfect however. Any ideas?

Brendan.

Funny Sheet - <a href=http://www.youtube.com>;YouTube</a> http://www.youtube.com

Dropout comp adjusted with no improvements, delay line swapped and still the same issue. Finally I have fitted a set of heads from a scrap C30 and problem solved. Now it gives a great image with full color.

Thanks again,

Gabriel,

Kevin,

Thanks a lot for the tip. I need having a look to the service manual because I don't have a clue where that pot is located (I guess in the video board, but not exactly). Could it also be caused by a bad delay line (DL001 as listed in the technical area of this model)?

Thanks,

Gabriel

Hi Gabriel

Try adjusting lightly the drop out compensator.if that does'nt help then it could be excessively worn heads or bad tapes (scratched too maybe ).............Kevin

Good morning Betaphiles,

Does anyone know a remedy for a SL-C30 showing random horizontal noisy lines when playing? I've tried changing the PSU with no results, moving also the tensioner arm (by hand) just in case it were a tape tension issue. Heads and tape path are clean.

As always, thanks in advance.

It looks like you need to take things apart to get that belt out, I am not keen on that idea yet... I cleaned the belt which has helped but still needs to be changed...

James

All belts and tyres with the exception of that one. The original is still good in my C7. Plus it isn't the easiest to replace. You could probably place the VCR on its side with both top and bottom exposed. And use tweezers to help fit the belt.

Brendan

Brendan,

You replaced all belts?I was wondering how you replaced the belt on the botton that drives the loading mech and ring?

James

Never mind everyone. I have corrected the rewind fault. Brendan

iHAVE FOR SALE A SONY SZL 100 AS BVETA PLAYER WITH REMOTE AND MANUALALSO 3 BOXWS OF MO,I LIVE IN Robina qld australia

Hello all,

Just finished replacing all the rubber in a SL C7. Rewind and review still fail to function. When engaged, it tries to rewind and the drum makes a whirring noise. Would this be an open inductor(L2) on the SY-11 as stated on the tech page? And more so, advice on accessing the coil.

Brendan

Which films have only ever came out on Betamax?

SLHF 950 for sale...Unfortunately I'm forced to sell one of my two beloved HF 950 's due to lack of space. Just serviced, it comes with the original IR remote commander. In near mint condition. No manual. Service receipt included.Due to the sheer size and weight of the unit (and risk involved), I am reluctant to post this rarity, only to have it arrive DOA on some poor, disappointed geek's doorstep, so pick up only. See working. $1 100.Regards, Craig Felsmann. Brisbane.

Matt77

Audio head wear/alignment/contamination perhaps?

Hi everyone. I have a sony sl-c9ub which needs a dc-dc converter for the lcd display and a tape threading gear and loading belt. If any of you have there parts for sale i would be very interested!Regards. Richard.

I have a SL-C9 that runs perfectly except there is no sound. I've searched the web, but the only thing I've found is to check the diod D515 on the AM1 board for failure. That diod seems to be fine. Does anyone have any other ideas of why there is no sound at all?

anyone tell me wherei can get atuner for a sony c6sl ken

Hi folks. I purchased a UVW-100 at a government auction some months ago. I did not realize it did not have a power supply at all nor did it have any manual. As such I have never had it up and running. I know absolutely nothing about these cams & bought it on a whim. Cosmetically it appears to be fine & it came with a Porta Brace bag (that I thought the battery, power cord etc. would be in) If you, or someone you know want a cheap cam .. contact me.. i live in Nova Scotia Canada

Roderick,

That's no good, I know how that feels. I once slipped a screw driver of the last tape guide and it hit the spinning heads of a new original SONY SLHF950 video head disc I had just installed. It killed a couple of heads nicely, instant no picture. Cost $445Au. Not happy Jan.

regards Noel

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Video tapes movies and documentaries

122 video tapes, sex movies and documentaries, VHS and BETA in very good condition, second hand. Good for passionate collectors. One dollar each. No minimum quantity. Location: Sydney, NSW, 2010 Tel.: (02) 92644773 Mobile: 0400336567

Already has a NTSC hi8 TVR-75 Sony japan video camera want,s to replace came cord with ribbon please send the discount of prizes send from DHL for Srilanka thanks.

Sorry, tad busy at work at the moment.Did work on the head drum and wished I hadn't.Finally managed to get the magnets of and clear all the glue around the sensor.Very careful with the heads, taped a strip of chamois around the drum.Then everything went wrong.Put everything back in place and reconnect the cables.Now when I hit play the heads still don't turn, but it doesn't have the resistance it had before, the drum turns freely.And to add to the misery, I discovered that I still damaged one of the heads....

Hopefully I'll find some time on the weekend to have another look.

Very quiet on the chatpage!

Roderick, how did you go with the drum motor repairs?

regards Noel

Ok never mind.

I get it now... Thanks for that info Noel...

James

Thanks Noel,

Is that if you were putting the HF100 heads into the HF150 or the other way round?

James