Thanks so much I will try that soon and see how it goes,thank god i finally found people who know their Beta.

BlankMinds,

I don't know much about american beta models, but I guess the SL-2710 shares the very common 711B chassis. The eject assembly on these models is sometimes prone to fail due to a broken gear on the left side of the machine (side of Power button). The seat of this gear can be fixed with some epoxy glue, but the whole cariage has to be realigned.

You should take that assembly out of the machine and examine it thoroughly.

Good luck,

Gabriel

Hi guys i have a 2710 and it is having a problem ejecting, it plays and records but when i hit eject it pushes up but not out.Also iam having a hard time finding a owner operators manual for the unit any help would be welcomed

Kevin, instead of complaining, just ask a question..

We are all aware of the problem and your crying is not helping this situation.

He was a crier before this page got blasted..

Take a chill pill mate...

i have a 1978 sanyo betacord vtc 9300 for sale very good condition any one intrested get in touch

It has been very quiet on the Betacam page. Maybe borrow that space until things are sorted here?

Just a suggestion because it would be a pity to loose the combined knowledge gathered here.

Kevin,

I completely agree with your statement. It's a pity because I have learnt a lot on this forum and tried to help others fixing their machines.

Kind regards, Gabriel

Will this EVER end?

Pointless posting here anymore.I'm sorry but it is.This has gotten out of hand.

Harry,

To me it sound like the heads are dirty, Have seen this type of thing on Beta and VHS machines...

James

Harry,

Probably your F30 has some kind of misalignment on the CTL head or a bad/leaky component on the capstan servo section. A hardened pinch roller can also lead to this symptom.

First thing to check is cleaning the whole tape path, including the CTL/audio zone. The pinch roller should also be removed and cleaned. Sometimes you can "refresh" it by sanding the surface with a soft sandpaper (with number 1600 for example). Do not apply alcohol on rubber surfaces.

Don't attempt to adjust the tape path height posts unless you really know what you are doing. It is advisable to have a CRO and a service manual to perform this operation.

Hope that this helps,

Gabriel

Hi to every body from Athens Greece,I have a sl-f30 betamax from new in imaculate condition,i use this video ocasionally to transfer beta tapes in dvd,yesterday i bought 10 new beta tapes found in a shop here and i tape a program from tv,in playback i dont have picture and sound only a black screen,when i press the fast forward or reverce and leave to play i have sound and picture of the recorded material only for few seconds after again black screen so the tape is been recorded,i removed that tape i put an old one and works perfect,i record on the old tape and again i have the black screen in the new recorded scene but in ff or rwd i see the new picture ,i dont know what is going on ,also last week i tape using an old tape and everythig is ok, any body has any idea ??thanks in advance, Harry

i have about 100 beta tapes (movies) does anyone know who buys these? and if so is there a number i can call to talk to someone outlining what i have? ty

Hi guys

I've found if you refresh the page a few times after opening it it also removes the trash too.:)

.....Kev

Martin,

Thanks yet again for restoring the site by removing the trash.

regards Noel

Hi guys,

Been wondering if you guys here only only deal with beta video as a hobby or do you enjoy other things?

I also play with vintage radios and audio, I am currently restoring a 1940's radio.

James

I have a Sony SL-C80E pal betamax.Is it possible to modify it to have an S-video output.Only Illuminati & chroma not combined.

i have good news to everyone who want to repair their Beta VCR, there are in Australia a organisation called Wes or Wagner, both are the same, who sells new parts for our Beta VCRwww.wes.com.au

Hi. My parents wedding video is recorded on a L-250 Beta Sanyo Video Cassette. How can I go about in having it switched to DVD format? If not possible, what kind of player should I try and buy so that we can at least watch it that way? All help is appreciated. My parents just had their 30th Wedding Anniversary this past January. Thank you all for your help, Miriam.

Hi --

Broke some part of the cassette carriage on my Sony SL-HF900 years ago when I first got it (used), I suspect by pushing too hard on the cassette. It was basically in perfect condition when I got it, and is a wonderful machine. I still have plenty of Beta tapes packed away, and would like to get the Sony humming again.

So -- the obvious question -- where do I get cassette carriage parts for an SL-HF900? Are they still sold? Are there other models (of which I have at least a couple) that could be cannabalized? Other options?

I'm new here, and would greatly appreciate any information or suggestions of any kind. ("Don't push so hard on your cassettes" has already been duly noted…) Thanks in advance for any assistance!

Hi Joe

i am not a expert on Sanyos. But i did spend a lot of time on fixing old Beta and VHS machines. If the picture looks like the youtube video you linked, then it could be dirty and very contaminated heads.

This is how i clean video heads, but it will grind a little on them. Use a small post-it piece of paper and tear of the glue part. Then fold it, and dip it in 99% isopropanol. Then you shake off any loose fluids. And then you press the soaked paper very delicate against the head thats peaking out from the slot, slowly rotate it back and forth until (feel the small resistance) no more black stuff is coming off. Repeat the process with the other head. Repeat again and again. Never use cleaning tapes. That stuff belong in the trash. Let it dry for 5 min. Insert a good quality tape. And run the machine in play and pause. If the picture is clean. Then success, and start playing the tape.

70% Iso is not good enough if you ask me. It might solve the problem if the heads are not that contaminated. But 99% is the way to go.

Good Luck

Joe,

Your video heads are already clean. At this point, don't focus too much on them because you may have a different problem, like a tracking issue, a failing PSU, a video signal problem or a tape path misaligning. However, you should discard more problems just by renewing the whole belts kit (they are critical in their gauge and nowadays not too easy to find). The pinch roller should also be checked.

After that, I would track the problem with a CRO, searching first the RF video signal in the intended test point and then the tracking CTL signal.

I wouldn't attempt to twiddle too much with certain mechanical adjustments, like the back tension or the stationary heads height/tilt. Sometimes the remedy is even worse than the problem. These videos are robust but delicate with some adjustments.

Good luck!

Gabriel

i put you a youtube link that is similar to my video, but this is in vhshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRhrbDxDLaY

I tried to clean the heads whit 70º alcohol and a clean paper, firstly i made a prove in the vhs and worked properly but it didnt work in the Sanyo.

i followed carefully the tutorial but still the same image

Is the picture coloured but very messy and bleeding to the right of white objects?Yes exactly, it seens like up and down image is a little bit clearly and in the middle simply it cant see absolutly nothing.Sometines it seen like i could see a little colour but the most of time i only can see black and white.Since 1985 this video has the original heads, so i think it is damaged and need to change, but i dont know where i can buy it

Hi Joe:

Firstly NEVER EVER use ANY head cleaning tape (head scourers i like to call them).They are abrasive,or they would'nt sell them to to the said job over normal ones.The wet type,are worse the material can get wrapped around the capstan.I had to sort some ones out which did just that.ALWAYS use a good quality normal tape to clean heads.It will take longer but is a lot kinder and after to those ferrite chips.Is the picture coloured but very messy and bleeding to the right of white objects?If so it's probably the heads have been worn down b a lot of use, poor quality tapes, or overuse of the tape scourers (cleaning tapes).If it's picture 'noise' it could be dirty heads,damaged broken head chips or something electronic in the head amplifier or associated video board.Also poor capacitors in the PSU can affect certain associated areas if bad.The idlers and belts will also need renewing , if not done for many a year.A lot have not.You need the mechanicals perfect first before checking out, back tension and the like.Put a good quality tape in it and make sure it's not getting damaged first.If not let it forward search and see if this picture does'nt clear itself up.Keep us posted.

...............Kevin

I think i have good news.I found a guy who restores old Beta videos in Spain.He told me that if i can find heads and all things i need he can fix my video.Can you help me to find the pieces who i need to fix it?Otherwise, can you tell me excluding the expensive Sony´s, what is a good unit to buy if i can´t fix my Sanyo?i couldn´t see any tape this weekend, but only hear the sound of old tapes became me nostalgic to old times.Many Thanks to all

this weekend i try to start my sanyo and i think i have a big problem, i try to clean heads following the tutorial in this web, but the video still dont working, the sound is very good but the image is impossible to see.i think i need new heads, but i am afraid it will be impossible to find it.If i try to use a old head clean tape, the video didnt pass the tape, is like the video has more resistance and the engine or something dont work properly, if i put normal tapes it works fine but i dont have imagecan someone help me?

Last chance to buy a fully functional Sony NTSC Super Beta Hi-Fi Recorder. The units for sale are a Sony SL-HFR70 and HFP -200. I am the original owner of both units; and both units are sold complete with Original Owner's Manual, Remote Control and the Original Sony Shipping Cartons complete with all packing inserts. I had my video engineer go through the recorder prior to packing; and everything works perfectly - all soft touch controls, lights, etc. Selling both units for $ 200. 00 + actual UPS or FedEx shipping charges. USA SALES ONLY and all sales paid for in US Dollars or USPS Money Order. I also have Professional Betacam SP and DV Cam units for sale as well. I'm in the Reno,Nevada area; but can deliver to the Sacramento or Bay Area for serious buyers. Both units will go to a commercial auction house in the next 10 days if not sold; so respond soon if you want these units.

Many thanks to try to help me.I agree that the Sanyo was very good,and i think i found a guy here in Spain who says me that they have some pieces for the video so maybe i can fix it.I will try to see what is wrong and then i will post it, and hopefully you can help meMany thanks one more time

Joe,

Sanyo VTC-NX10 is a really good machine (and most Sanyo betas). It is worth repairing, but it seems that your local tech does not want to complicate himself too much. Normally, a new set of belts/idler, PSU checking, general and heads cleaning, and alignment (if needed) would bring your Sanyo to full specs.I specially like the NX10 because of its vivid colours and reliable operation.

Pd: a working, refurbished SL-HF950 may cost up to 300-350 eur on Spain. They seldom appear on eBay.

Hi JoeIn regards to your Sanyo NX10 bwing impossible to fix, i find that interesting.Sanyo's are one of the easiest and most pleasant VCR manufacturers to work on.Their beta's in particular.Most 'service guys ' opinions with vcr's (especially beta's these days) is I don't WANT to know so i'll fob you off.I've been on the end of that a few times myself.Hence why i now do what id do.

A pity you did'nt live a bit nearer,i would be more than happy to help you out.

...................Kevin (UK)

FYI: I have just added the SL-F1 TV wiring diagrams to the site

http://www.palsite.com/slf1ovi.html

Hello from Spain, i have an old Sanyo VTC NX10 who are died and the tecnical service says me that there is impossible to fix it.i want to buy a good unit, if it is possible the best.Maybe the Sony SL-HF950 is the best betamax video to buy?

Noel,

Yes, I read your comments about fixing the black loading gear. As you have correctly mentioned, I have never tried that kind or repair. Instead, I take a "healthy" unit from a scrap/donor video. On the bad side of things, betas are more difficult to get as time passes, so I should start thinking about repairing gears and broken teeth.

Is it possible to have a picture(s) of your labours regarding these fixes? It would help a lot. (I think you have my email from the past).

As always, thanks a lot in advance,

Gabriel

Hi guys,

Looking for belts for the old Sanyo 9300? Well I got lucky getting a belt kit for it at Star components

If anyone is seeking a kit then I suggest you email them for info at [email protected]

You may even find other things there.

http://www.starcomponents.com.au

Regards,James

Hi all.

Re: Sony SL-C7UB

I have a couple of questions although I suspect one of them has been asked many times before but I couldn't find any way to run a search.

My first question is regarding replacing the "Toko" press-to-make switches on top of my C7 timer panel. Are there any known sources of replacements for these switches? I have 4 machines and every single one has seized up. Somebody has suggested using some thin plastic-friendly lubricant such as Peco "Power Lube" but I'm not sure whether this will work or not. (I have some on order.) Some of the buttons are seized solid but one or two will "lift up" but have no springiness to them.

My second question is regarding the AG7 BetaStack. I was wondering whether there was supposed to be some kind of clip at the back of the unit as well as the one at the front. It works okay with only one clip but the whole unit lifts up at the back as it pushes down the cassette lift. There are a couple of little metal pieces which look like they might slide into something but they could of course just be supports.

Many thanks for the help everyone.

Kind regards.

From Mike.http://www.oldtechnology.net

Gabriel,

Sorry I should have read your last email more carefully. I see now you have not tried it.The main issue is to get use a fast drill with the right size to match what you are using to pin the gear. Martin has asked me to do a few photos to assist explanation of how this repair is performed.

cheers Noel

Gabriel,

Yes the black loading gears breaking and spinning on shafts are the main issue causing failure these days. I hope you have managed to repair them using my method shown at http://www.palsite.com/100tech.html

cheers Noel

Noel,

I go along with your statements regarding F30 & F60 machines. They are prone to break the loading mechanism gear (the one with the lever). I haven't ever attempted to repair one of those gears, but I will remember your method just in case. Also, the small black threading gear is really a cause of malfunction in C20 / 30 F30 /60 machines, not to mention the issue related to the tape end detector spring... Sony and their fantastic "plastic designs", getting worse with age.

Sometimes I prefer Sanyos: getting every belt/rubber changed, keep an eye on certain caps and that's all. Bombproof design.

Gabriel,

I have seen the black and white issue on SLHF950s and it came down to chroma adjustments getting out of whack. The main issues I get with F30 and 60s are the load mechanism teeth breaking (the last tooth in fact) which can be repaired by heat melting the tooth plastic to hold it back in place then drilling holes in it and the second last tooth and bending a pin into a square cutting it and inserting it to hold the teeth together like a bridge in dentistry.

The servo control boards are no fun either.

cheers Noel

Noel,

Thanks a lot for your tips, I'm having a look for cracks/broken tracks on those boards. However, if I find something interesting I will post it here.

Regards,

Gabriel

Gabriel,

The F30s and F60s are prone to damage in the centre of the base video board around the centre plastic support. if they are dropped the bakelite board cracks and tracks are broken. If you bridge over the breaks using teflon coated wire wrap wire then you can fix them. just soldering over the crack is not a long term solution.

cheers Noel (betaheaven.com) Australia.

The lowlife is now also attacking the U-matic page.Could that be cleaned up too?

Dear Betaphiles,

Do you know a solution for F30s and F60s showing only black and white image? What I usually do is just swapping the entire "video" board, containing the Chroma Process. I have 3-4 scrap boards with this isuue so I would like to fix them.

Any suggestion?Thanks in advance,

Kevin,

Have a look at the front panel repair kit for the Sanyo VTC6500 I have developed at http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181368843366&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:AU:1123

cheers Noel

The spam disturb the palsite forums

Hola, tengo el super beta SL-HF950 y necesito cabezas de video. ¿ donde puedo conseguirlas?

Hi, I have the SL-HF950 Super Beta and need video heads. Where do I can get them?

Paolo,

The C9 audio output Ch1/Ch2 output options can be selected by via a front panel switch.That is CHA to both outs, CHB to both outputs or normal out A/B position. This was used for multilingual broadcasts.

Check it to be sure the problem is not dirty contacts in the switch. If the switch seems to be working, it will indicate if the problem is output path related or source related (before the switch)

Ripples to the tape edge and dirty heads will affect playback performance but broken solder connections on the audio board are also a common problem on aging beta machines.

regards Noel

Hello, if I open my video and connect the luminance and chrominance output to svideo input, I will win image quality?

Hi, I've a problem with my SL-C9E. When I play a cassette, I can listen only left channel, ch1. The right channel, ch2, produce only a few noises and then, silence. I want know if You can help me about components to change, Like capacitors and IC, in audio board. Today I'll try to clean and adjust azimuth in audio head but I don't think is that the solution, thanks, regards, Paolo.

I have a brand new hard case for a Sony Betamax F1 in its original packing which is looking for a good home. Any offers?

SORRY Betaphiles i COULD'NT resist :)

..............

spam, spam, spam, spam, spammy spam lovely spam!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is a bit weird why they mainly target the Betamax chat page, although the same removal system is in place on the other boards.

The problem now is that the size of the spam posts are forcing things out way too quick, it is a shame we don't have access to the source as it would be a simple matter of adding all these checks at the time of posting rather than afterwards.

New posts?

Hello, If I put a Y/C inputs and outputs in Betamax video, I will win quality?

Why just the BETAMAX chatpage is being targeted i wonder.

A pointless exercise in wasting energies.Spammers go to a site worthy of your silly, pathetic, pointless efforts.

Thanks again Martin but seeing all posts removed is getting a bit tiresome.

...............

Martin,

Thanks for your continued efforts.

regards Noel

Good morning.Where can I buy a Sony multi-connector?I need it to connect my old Betamax video player to the HD-VPR to capture my old home movies.Thank you.

Nice job Noel, that Sanyo 6500 looks like new!If needed, I would contact you for one of those kits.

Kevin,

No problems. I used Excel to make the new labelsChanging the colour is easy.

What is hard is getting the red line to indicate record is used in conjunction with play but most people wont be using beta machines to record these days with the move to digital channels.

cheers Noel

Hi Noel:

Thanks for the heads up.I actually have a guy here in the UK who is creating something near identical but in silver for the UK models (we don't have the TV/VIDEO options just 12 tuner channels).If you ever see Sanyo's original advertising for this model they made those in silver.For some reason they went with a gold colour that deteriorates badly with age.I agree Noel, the 6500 should not be overlooked, it has a pretty special performance and features to match, unusual for Sanyo beta models at the time.I think most are put off by that membrane with the usual holes in it.Still it's nice to know some are trying to rectify that:)

Nice one................Kevin

Hello all,

For your information I have developed a replacement front panel cover for the Sanyo VTC6500 which except for this ugly problem is otherwise a very well featured and good looking machine.

See http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181358116971?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

regards Noel (Betaheaven.com)

Hi Graham

The fuses are located near the whole timer block. You should undo the top cover, and be able to locate them. I had a C7 that kept blowing that fuse, after a little while in standby. It never did it when switched on.

I have a SONY CL7-E betamax video recorderbeen stored for many years......switched on ,ok for a few minutes ,then went dead.Can someone tell me were the fuse F006 is located

Hi Guys,

I have been busy for quite a while but back now to fixing a few betas.

I noticed some comments below.

I use betacam oxide (ex commercial) tapes on the SLHF950 and they work great. Stay clear of the SP metal versions though. I am not sure if they actually wear the heads more but the tape formulation is wrong for the bias settings used on domestic machines anyway.

Interesting to note comments on the plastic parts Sony have used. I have just repaired some later model SLS2000 and SLT50ME multisystem machines. One of the SLT50ME machines has the front panel just falling apart after it was sent through the post because it has become so brittle. The SLS2000s are starting to show problems with the pins that sit in the white plastic load arms of the tape tray breaking off. The plastic is moulded over metal tabs and break at the point where the tab ends. You cant pin the plastic because of the metal tabs.

Plastics becoming brittle means that all of the beta machines will eventually have issues.

Manage your tapes and machine well by keeping them in a dry and cool environment.

regards Noel (betaheaven.com) Australia

Emails sent to Erling.

Thanks, Gabriel :-)

Hi all,

I have the Sony SL-F1 /TT -F1 combination, but unfortunately it is not possible to charge the battery (NP-1) anymore. I have tried with a new battery, but no success. It seems like the charger unit has died. Is there anyone out there who has got a working AC -F1 charger for sale? (Any charger able to load the NP-1 will do)Would be great if anyone could help.

Ok Roderick but not appears information of RM-430 unit.Other thing, the NTSC video Sony SL-HF2000 has differents speeds Beta 1, Beta 2 and Beta 3, exist PAL videos with these caracteristics?

David, the SLO-420 (http://www.palsite.com/slo420ovi.html) is the only Betamax machine I know that will connect to a professional editor.

I found a service manual of the editing control unit Sony RM-430 and Sony RM-430CE, in the superior part appears U-matic and Betamax, exist Betamax videos for connect to this editing control unit?http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/aD0AAMXQVERSzudZ/$_57.JPG

Hi,

I am from Belgium, I have a Betamax Fischer VBS 9000, and when I will play a tape, he always stops after 2 second's, please is there sombody how can help me to solf this problem.already thanks in advance

There are videos as Sony SL-C20 that load the tape in clockwise, what videos load in counterwise?

David, that question doesn't make sense in any way, shape or form. Could you explain what you actually try to find out?

Hello, do you know what videos load to the left and what videos play and record in different speeds?

Ok Emil, I thought that Pro-X tape is of metal, this is the reason of question about Betacam SP tapes

Pro-X tapes are a better formulation then UHG (Ultra High Grade) tapes. But still all normal oxide tapes. Pro X tapes can be used in all Betamax machines.

Think of it as different classes and grades of cassettetapes. But still the same type. :-)

The Pro-X tapes are of oxide or metal?

Hi

Personally i have been using Betacam oxide tapes for years in my machines. And it never seen any increase of wear on the heads. Actually it produces a much better picture, really pushing the video machine to the limits, due to the better formulation of the tapes. Its much smoother in winding as well. But since i always use a Rewinder for my tapes, then i dont bother much about that.

Used tapes are available on Ebay and so on.

If you a own SL-HF950 you can easily switch it to Pro Mode using Betacam tapes. The "Pro-X" tapes are rare and overpriced on Ebay. And comes only in L-500 lenght.

If you need longer tapes, like L-1000 or good quality domestic tapes or broadcast tapes, get in touch with Mr. Betamax. He is quite helpful with shipping tapes, and takes Paypal.

Stay away from Betacam SP tapes, they are metal formulation, and will grind down your precious videoheads in no time. It should only be used if you own a ED- machine.

Kind regards

Emil

I read here that is correct use Betacam tapes in Betamax videos and not use Betacam SP tapes in Betamax videos also that for Superbeta videos there are Pro-X tapes but not appears info of the use of Betacam SP tapes in Superbeta videos

Don't use BetaCam tapes in a Betamax machine.

The shells look the same but the tape used inside is completely different because it has to deal with BetaCam broadcast norms and speed. It is a sure way to wear out the heads on a domestic Betamax.

Hi David:

From my understanding with Betacam tapes, there are two types.One type is FINE the other is NOT, if you want the heads to survive.I am limited as to what type or description the OK ones come under.I'm sure someone here can help.There is also the Betacam site linked with this page at the top left of the home page.Sorry i could'nt be of more help.

......Kevin

Hello, I have the Sony SL-F90, can I use Betacam SP tapes in this video?

Kevin,

I completely agree: when repairing Sony VCRs one can see the same faults once and again. Plastic cracks are quite typical.

Regarding mode switchs, it's clear that a good cleaning will solve most issues, but in few cases is better having it changed (if there is a replacement, of course). Some local shops still have obsolete spares for VHS. I have even recently found some new pinchrollers for betas. They were apart in a corner at an old shop :-)

Gabriel:

Interesting info.Like i've stated i have never seen inside one.Sadly for Sony it would seem their policy of using fragile plastic components continued.I also believe the issue of the worm gear cracking on the end was common to a few later Panasonic VHS models as well.Dirty mode switches (usually through a too thick manufacture type grease) is all too common on a lot of vcr's too.Once cleaned off, i've never had a failed mode switch.

.......Kevin

Kevin, Logan,If I'm not wrong, SL-700ME and SL-500ME share the same (or quite similar) mechanism as SL-F65, F73 and F75. These are one of the latest chassis on Sony beta and they have some components in common with early VHS machines: the carriage assembly is driven by a thread worm and is prone to crack on its linkage to the motor shaft. In addition, they use a primitive version of mode switch, wich sometimes fails and mess the machine up.Apart from that, they used to be lightweight and reliable machines.

Logan:

I regularly repair and refurbish Beta's to a high standard.(since 2002)Although those two Sony's models i have not worked on ,i don't see where they can be that much different in operation.If you want to send me an e-mail to discuss this feel free.

...............Kevin

Hi Kevin,

Thanks for the response - it's good advice. The screw in question doesn't match any of the others (which I've removed), and no matter what size screwdriver I use it just seems to make metal filings with the screw head.

On another note, and just a general inquiry; I live in the South East (England) and I have 2 Multi-Region Beta's I might look to get repaired. They're both black Sony front loaders. The first (SL-700ME) worked fine for a while until it stopped keeping the tapes inside and just kept spitting them out, I haven't used it in a couple of years, but I don't see why if it was fixed and cleaned it wouldn't still work. The other I bought on eBay as a replacement for the first (SL-500ME), and although the seller said it worked it wouldn't play when I got it. I've tried a couple of local repair places, but they don't seem to know what to do with Beta's (or have the spares - understandably). Can anyone recommend someone that might be able to have a go at fixing these?

Hi Logan

I would suggest you getting those capacitors replaced.manufacturers have reason to put them there.SAFETY.I appreciate what you are saying but safety should always come first.As for the stuck screws.I've seen this over and over on ones i've worked on.ALWAYS make sure the screwdriver head is the EXACT one for those screws.They will un-tighten then, even if over tightened.Most use the first screwdriver (crosshead/Philips) they come across and succeed in wearing the head down.You can also drill the screws out or try to make a slot for a flat blade type.

Good luck and be safe.

..............Kevin

Hi,

I wonder if anyone can help me. I have Sony SL-T30 purchased recently, and although it played fine for an hour or so, there was a sudden pop and then a lot of white smoke near the psu. The video continued playing, and I've tried it since and it still plays fine. After checking the fault page for the model listed on this site I see the exact thing I encountered listed with this solution: "just remove, or replace the two 0,068µf 250V capacitors, near the L1 in the power supply. You can just remove them without replacing, they are not absolutely necessary, they are here only for a basic filtering of the main AC." The question I have is; can the video be safely used without removing the capacitors, as one of the screws on the case will not come out and I’m unable to get at them.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hi all

Does anybody know where I can get an idler tyre for a Sanyo VTC5000. I have expanded my Beta collection this week !I found a tyre in my "bits" box but it is slightly too big in diameter so fights to drive take up reel in playback with gear wheel- causing this to jump in and out of mesh -then looses capstan lock.

cheers

Graeme

Kevin, I think David means that he records in colour but the playback is in black & white.

David, in record mode, is the picture colour or B&W?

My apologies, that message was to David B, NOT Graeme :)

.......Kev

Hi Graeme:

I think I understand what you mean.You are referring too coloured vertical bars like red,blue going from top to bottom about an inch each wide?I have seen that a few times with a Sanyo VTC 5000. Off hand I don't know but a check of all components to the colour reproducing circuits would be the only way to know.You would need the service manual for that too.Sorry I can't be of more help.

Good luck......Kevin

Kevin, I record 10 seconds and play in colour, but these 10 seconds in a video good appears in greyscale

I'm from Spain Kevin, I was searching the scheme but I not found, somebody knows where can I find?

Hi david:

I'm not familiar with that Sony model.You must be overseas,USA maybe?The only thing I can suggest is getting hold of a service manual and checking your way through the colour processing circuits for faulty components or even dry joints.Something is obviously amiss.make sure too the recording isn't intended to be monochrome of course:)

Good luck.......Kev

Hello, I have the Sony SL-F90, play in greyscale, do you know the solution?

Hi Kevinthanks for your reply.I ve wound the mech by hand with power off.one guide on the loading ring works ok. The other guide seems as though the spring is off........need new eyes or big magnifying glass to see.....I was a kid when I got into C9 's Sanyo5000 and the like.the shuttle guide seems to slide freely in front of the loading ring but when unlacing the mech, it gets left behind as linkage is what broke in the past.

thanks

Graeme

Hi Graeme:The later mechanisms in the Sony's were very fragile.The problem you have I have sorted with anothers SLF30. The fist flick up guide was broken. I can see the only way that could happen is someone forcing something out or against it's will.You really need another machine to line this up with after replacement.It is a fiddly tricky job, but can be done.

.............Kevin

Hi Helen:

Private individuals such as myself can to a very high degree.Companies I would think not.Most 'reputable service/repair busineses' don't want to know.Hence my decision too in 2003 offer what most 'still' want and desire.What country are you in?

.................Kev

"Spammers' it's not big or clever.........take a hike".