Noel:

Yes it's the same one .One each end of a hexagonal type metal rod at the base of the loading cassette hatch mechanism.

Sanyo redesigned this later as that type was a bigger heavier more complex unit and their first for a front loader. The later styles are literally bomb proof so long as you remember to change that belt after time.

The belt slipping was the most common issue for the 6500 mechanism.

I also rough up the pulley this goes to over that worm gear as it seems to over come this longer with a new belt and some light grease.

Also worth noting the flap that drops down to stop two tapes going in needs to be held up when securing that top plate or better still put the cassette hatch in the tape inside position.

It's to easy to secure the top plate with it dropped slightly only to get stuck under the cassette cradel when trying to insert a tape.

Interesting too about the black gears to the C9. I've always liked the idea of a black front panel and case for my C9 . Only available on the ES model though. The black gives it a really high tech look I feel.

...............Kev

Kevin,

They were the only Sanyo I saw that duplicated the Sony SLC9s tape present playing position in an LED array.

The load gears I am talking about are the small gears (about 1cm diameter) either end of the bar behind the front cover.

Another thing I saw recently for the first time was black plastic load gears in an SLC9AS. They must have released them in the very last models when they realized the white plastic gears got hard and broke. The only other machine I have seen these in is the non-tuner version of an SLC9 called the SLO420.

cheers Noel

Noel:

Yes we do have that model.I have one of my own and a few more to sort out.

I used to repair the cracked front membrane from behind so long as it was all there. A good friend of mine is currently designing some for this out of silicone material and in silver not the horrible gold colour.

interestingly when Sanyo advertised them they had silver membranes.

I have come across one some time ago that had a cracked white side loading gear. It made the cassette slot a bit uneven.

I've never seen another like that though.

It's a pretty decent model with some nice unique features and performance is pretty good too.

One to look out for and now those membranes can be made new again even better.

Cheers Noel...................Kev (what this page is all about )

Kevin,

I don't know if you had the Sanyo VTC6500 model over there in UK. Their main issue is cosmetic because the flexible rubberized cover over the front control switches goes hard over time and breaks away so I made up replacements for those by printing the key information on adhesive backed paper and protecting the top surface with clear contact paper.

I have also fixed a few recently with broken load gears or that had jammed. The grease goes hard over time and the friction increases. I saw one the other day however that had jammed because someone had managed to slip in a tape when one was already loaded which was unusual. I guess the tape reject flap had jammed. The broken gears can be repaired if they have not completely broken in half by using a pin and glue technique.

cheers Noel

Steve:

No my friend your behaviour on here IS the problem.

And where has anyone on here stated taking peoples money.Yet another innuendo.

I think you get a big kick stirring things up don't you?

Some are beyond help I feel.

Each to their own.

Time to move on.

.....

Steve:

What's the matter my friend you can give it out but it seems cannot take it.

You come on here accusing people of ripping people off and stating NOT to communicate or discuss things off this site because of past dealings you've obviously had with rogues on here,that we know nothing about, and obviously many years ago.

Then when myself replies and states this fact you accuse me or protesting?!!!

The reactions you are getting is because of the quite frankly insulting and beligerant remarks and orders you are throwing around.

Those of us here who can will always help out another enthusiast in whatever way we both decide NOT YOU.

I also like the way you twist everything around to make you look like the innocent party.

You HAVE been on here before THAT is what I was referring to with my 'no comment' remark. I do remember you now with the same style and attitude as do we all.

Steve if you've been ripped off get over it and move on. Most of us have had experiences in our lifetimes of similar (try using e-bay )but we learn by them and move on. Can I suggest you do the same?

Other than that that's all I will say on this.

I'll send you some love too because I think you could do with this and maybe it will help you to go forward again.

.........

Steve;

ME THINKS DOW DOST PROTEST TOO MUCH.............:)

Steve,

OK you can fake me by copying my post, but you really know nothing of value to this page.

Have fun within your limits.

cheers Noel

Now they are asking me HOW to clean the heads that they admit now are for the HI-FI and may be clogged.

Now they want me to advise them which ones to clean and how to clean them..If you don't know,stop giving advise on here.

Tell you what, A cleaning tape wont work.

You finally admit that the heads could be clogged is enough for me..

I'm not going back and forth with (( name )) calling because I give a simple fix to a problem.

You see folks..Don't try to take away business from these angry tech's on here, by giving simple fixes.. No money in that for them.

Have a nice day and stop posting about me..TY

Roderick,

Your quite right, but we don't want to stop an expert giving out some good advice.

Steve,

Tell them how to clean the heads properly without damaging them and how they know which are the HiFi heads or the video heads and does it matter?

cheers Noel

Sorry folks for making the suggestion to just clean the 2 HI-FI heads on that SL-HF950. .

I see we have another repairman Roderick.. who is now name calling me for my post.

OK, don't clean those heads..Let someone replace them with used heads or if lucky new one..

If your tapes are degraded and clog the new heads , just do as said and clean the 2 HI-FI heads.

Have a nice vacation Roderick..and take a chill; pill..

Oh dear, if the spam attacks on this page weren't bad enough we now have the rolls back - yeah!

Knock yourself out Steve, I'll be back in a few weeks and hopefully you'll have grown bored enough by then to let things go back to a helpful page for enthusiasts.

Trolls, ignore them and they'll go away.

Noel,

2 of the heads are for the Hi-FI which I guess you either forgot or just don't want him to know and can become clogged by degrading tapes

I guess telling the poor sole to clean the heads is not cost effective for you?..

Ill try to stay out of your Betamax business on this page.

This is why I originally posted about the past on here..Now you all see why

Steve,

One rookie suggestion about cleaning the heads in a total of six posts is not going to make you the grand master of this site any more than spreading innuendo.

If there is a problem with what people are suggesting or doing for others then I have not seen any evidence of that from posts on this site in recent years. What we have had are abusive comments from some wanting to make trouble rather than help.

All the best in beta for the true enthusiasts.

cheers Noel

oqie, Just try cleaning the heads properly on the SL-HF950 first and see if that solves the losing HI-FI.

If you have a problem just let me know on here only..No off air emails..

Kevin, I am confused, now you Both say what I stated about bad dealing is now familiar?

Lets talk about Betamax's and stop the girl talk back and forth about being familiar with the goings on here in the past.

I just brought up facts about bad dealing and had nothing to do with anyone on here now..

.No comment............:)

Hey Kevin - This all sounds a bit too familiar.

I never mentioned any names that are currently on this chat page..

Only the "repair" people from the past..

Stop defending anyone on this page.. Sure they are all honest.

As Kevin said, no one should ever send any monies to anyone until you receive the unit back and repaired.

Let's all calm down...I regret even mentioning anything about crooks from the past.

Unsure as to whether or not Steve's comment is insinuating anything against any particular individual, but I would like to take this opportunity to state outright that I have only ever used the services of KEVIN LAMBERT from this site, and he is 100% genuine in his technical capabilities, and is a very nice person to converse with too.

Without Kevin's expertise, my Sanyo Betamax machines would have died a long time ago.

Steve, if you have had problems with a specific person or persons in the past, it would be helpful to let us ALL know, so we can be aware, and who knows, maybe get answers...

Kevin, in the words of William Shakespeare:

ME THINKS DOW DOST PROTEST TOO MUCH

Steve

And we all appreciate the heads up.

I don't know those you mention either, so just as well.

I just find it surprising some send people they don't know a vcr to be fixed AND the money too.

You only ask for monies when the work is done.ANYONE asking for both at the same time should be eyed with suspicion,in my opinion.

......Kevin

OK Kevin , Maybe Andy Sanchez and the other group were the last one on here that received machines and money, but the units ended up being sold on eBay..

I just tell the folks to beware that all..They can send machines and money to everyone.

Nothing personal to any of you.. I just have a good memory of what went on here...

Steve:

Knowone to my knowledge on this site has ever done that.

There are only a few who can sort these out now .

I appreciate what you are saying but the ones here are all genuine,that I know of.

Mind you if you are silly enough to send a vcr AND monies before it's sorted then ....well says it all really.

......Kevin

Hi

More than likely you have worn Beta hi-Fi heads.

Possibly a fault in the Hi-Fi processing circuitry.

Or have you considered the fact what you are playing wasn't recorded in Beta Hi-Fi.The early tapes weren't as it wasn't available then.

If the Beta Hi-Fi green illumination doesn't turn on it's normally because the tape you are playing doesn't have that signal on it.

I believe on the Sony hi-Fi decks if you have the sound switch to AUTO and it does have Beta Hi-Fi on the tape but the heads or whatever are causing the signal to not be produced it will just go silent.If you play a tape with No Beta Hi-Fi on it, even if the switch is set to AUTO, then it will automatically play the mono edgetrack sound.You will know IF that is the case as the Green Beta hi-Fi illuminator won't light up.

Hope this helps...............Kevin

Hi, I have betahifi sl-hf950, why betahifi does not work every time I played the tape?, so the sound produced becomes mono not stereo, betahifi auto selector already in position, but betahifi indicator is not turn on, no one knows what causes it, thanks ^_^

Great site, but beware of folks who want YOU to do business off this site..

Have horror stories of folks sending VCR and money to people on here and ending up the loser.

Enjoy,ask questions and that ALL

Be safe

Sony SL-T7ME Clock does not work How to fix it ...???

Hellwyn:

I may be wrong but it sounds to me like you have PSU issues.

Have the capacitors been checked/changed recently?

It's the first thing I do on ANY beta I work on ESPECIALLY the Sony's which always have quite a few going high ESR down to heat.

...Kevin

Where in Reno nv can I take my betamax for repair

I left my Sony SL-HF100B playing a tape to the end, and went out of the room.

When I came back, it had rewound but when I tried to eject the tape the unit switched itself off.

Now, when I try to switch on it clicks on for a microsecond then off again, and is then unresponsive until I switch it off/on at the wall, whereupon it just does the same thing.

The Clock displays as 0:00 and there's a red AU next to it. The red characters sometimes disappear soon afterwards.

What's happened?!

Dave

I don't know where you reside but I regularly refurbish/service these units and most other Sanyo's and most later Sony's so if you are in the UK feel free to contact me.

E-mail address is located under my name (hold the cursor over it).

Good luck whatever you do................Kev

Thanks for the replies gents. I suspect it may be prudent to get the machine serviced rather than attempt a diy approach.

I dont really know much about these older machines other than they seem to have a lot more components than later VHS models.

Kind regards

Gabriel and Theo,

Sorry, I don't get on chat page that often these days. The fix for the broken load gear problem is detailed on Betamax Palsite, videos under "loading gear repair" on the technical page for the SLHF100.

The part is common to all the mid to late model Sony front load machines except for the very last ones. SLS2000 and SLHF950.

cheers Noel

Dave:

Also very importantly, quite a lot suffer with poor tape take up and need a fusible resistor and diode upgrade. Not all do though but if when changing out all the rubber for new and you press stop and the tape still doesn't go back in the cassette you will need the upgrade.

Also it helps to clean and refresh the bottom spool friction edge as these are usually ignored by most and can give a better grip with the new tyres and help this to last too.

You can also help by adding a very tiny drop of oil to the top of the reel motor bearing (just where you see the silver shaft go into the top of the motor.It usually has a clear plastic washer that you need to slide up first.

There is far more that benefits these but if you do what has been suggested it will help a LOT.

I agree these are bomb proof designs but many need more done to them now down to general neglect and age. Most is done cleaning,belt/rubber idler changing and very light oiling, but back tension checking (especially if the clutch under the left spool is tight or jammed),audio head azimuth, capacitors in the PSU (especially ones for the clock).Pinch roller and capstan shaft cleaning (some are really crudded up badly).Plus some have been badly messed about by those who really don't know what they are doing!!!.

I have many years working on these to testify those remarks :)

Oh and please keep WD40 away from these, spraying the entire cassette deck area ruins al lot of the friction parts!

Also NEVER EVER touch any of the tape guides( probably in the hope to make the tape move when the issue is with the reel drive,it put's all the important tape alignment out big time).NEVER use COTTON BUDS either especially near the head drum, it will catch and ruin the heads.I actually don't know why some 'experts' recommend using them for the other areas either.There are special cleaning sticks available from CPC.co.uk.

If you need any help feel free to message me.

Good luck................Kev

Dave,

Probably, all you have to do is changing the whole set of belts inside your machine (including the "tyre" fitted on the idler assembly). You will have to take all them apart and bring them to your local electronics shop so as to find a compatible replacement. Being lucky, this is the only thing you will have to carry out on that machine; they are bomb-proof and really well designed.

Regards,

Gabriel

I have a problem with my VTC500. I put in the tape and press play, then the tape fails to load properly and when i take the tape back out the mylar is all loose and i have to wind it back in the tape. Any ideas anyone ?

Myke, here is some information about the CV-2200 machine:

http://www.labguysworld.com/Sony_CV-2200.htm

Also has a link to the manual!

And here some information about the Betamax machine:

http://www.betainfoguide.net/Pix.htm

As for interest, it will very much depend where you are located, there are people from around the world who post here.

Freight can be a real interest stopper...

My Dad worked for Sony in the 60's and left us 2 old beta machines one is a Betamax X2 and the other is a real early model he used as a salesman a CV2200 any info or interest in these

I dont know what happen in the last post.

A good friend of mine made me today a present . it Is a Sanyo vtc m10. This vcr has a little problem, whith pinch roller and i think the heads are dead too.

I have a vtc nx10 with dead heads but couple of days before i found some heads in an old sanyo technical service. The heads are compatible whit nx and m10 series so, So What VCR i should to repair?

Sanyo VTC NX10 VS VTC M10

Theo,

The problem with your machine is the typical load gear issue. Is it really prone to break and that leads to no unlacing. You have to remove the toothed eject belt and then the gearbox near the head drum. Gaining access to the underneath of that gearbox will show you a black gear which is broken/split. The best solution is to find a replacement, but due to lack of spares it is a good idea to fix it. Maybe Noel Higgins can submit further details about this fix, I recall he had a good technique for that.

Good luck,

Gabriel

Hi guys. I recently got a Betamax SL-C30 PAL from a relative. I was testing some old Beta tapes and I noticed that anytime I ejected the tapes, the VCR was "spitting" them. But the real problem happened when I tested the last tape: the noise of loading was louder and now I am unable to eject the tape. I am not sure about what can be the real problem, so I uploaded a video on YouTube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iw0FzBjn8s

Thanks to anyone able to help

I have an SL-F1 that at first loaded a tape with no problem but then would only run in one direction: FORWARD, and that at the FF rate, even when pushing "PLAY". I have had it apart several times, checking mechanical parts for freedom of movement, lubrication needs, etc., and reassembled it, but now all it will do when the POWER button is pushed is for the head drum to start spinning. No tape load, and no response at all following initial ON. The only way to turn it off is to turn the power supply off. While the head drum is spinning, the green light on the ON button flashes/blinks. This sounds like something in the electrical area that has gone wrong, but why would it have regressed to not even loading a tape?

I also have the "Service Manual", SL-F1UB, which has a few instructions about disassembly, as well as pictures of different subsections of the unit, as well as block diagrams and schematics, but there are no trouble shooting statements or flowcharts that one would expect in something called "service manual". Is there some other publication that hasa this? Surely everything wasn't diagnosed with a scope!

Help would be appreciated!

I have another SL-F1 that is identical to the one above. I purchased both at the same time from a JUNK bin at a recycle shop, thinking I could use one for parts. I was able to get the rougher, dirtier one to run, so hesitate to use it for parts now, and would prefer getting the the cleaner one up and running, as well. I live in Japan and purchased new an SL-F05 in 1983, and still own it. It was introduced that year to cater to home users, with a much reduced price compared to the F1. However, it has belts, which have degenerated in time and it refuses to load without some physical help, will play but doesn't respond well to FF or REWIND commands. Thus the purchase of these F1 's, in order to transfer the trove of tapes over to DVD.

Kevin.

Thankfully I have a scrap f30 so I used the transformer from that.😊

Richard.

Richard

Ah THAT transformer!

I've had to change a couple of those two. I still have two new transformers that I managed to obtain around 2010.

I also once had that fault on a Sanyo VTC M40 through the same item.That is quite rare for me on a Sanyo.

..Kev

Noel.

Out of interest do you know where I can buy a replacement for the faulty diode please?

Richard.

Hi Noel.

Yes the heads are spinning and the tape does get loaded and unloaded with no problems. It's intermittent as this morning it's working again 😕

I had a look on the technical page and it could be a diode on the servo board?

When I got this vcr the bloke (wwho had it from new) said he hadn't used it for 20 years. It's probably not used to being put through its paces 😆

Richard.

Richard,

The audio transformer is a very common fault. The transformers suffer a combination of corrosion of the coil leads from solder flux and moisture/time plus vibration.

As for the stopping in those modes, two things to check.

1/ Is head drum motor still working? (i.e. Are the video heads spinning)

2/ Is the tape being picked up by the cassette take-up reel?

Both of these issues and the repairs are detailed on palsite.

cheers Noel

I changed it because the linear audio wouldn't erase when a new recording was made.

Richard.

Richard

Out of curiosity what made you change the transformer?

..Kev

Thanks Kevin. It was great to hear the sound properly although now another fault has developed. Lol.

It stops in play, ffw and rewind. I'll have a look at the technical page on here to see if there's a fix. Damn vcr lol.

Richard.

Richard

What can I say...........WELL DONE my friend!!

Feels good doesn't it :)

.Kev

Kevin,

Well, after more fiddling with the vcr I now have the sound working perfectly. I changed the transformer on the tuner pcb and the sound came back with no problems. A good clean of the tape path, heads, pinch roller and a light oil of the capstan shaft just to finish off and he's fine. Thank you and Noel again for your advice.

Gonna spend the day recording and playing back tapes just to make sure all's in good order.

Richard 😆😆😆

Hi Kevin.

It would seem so. I've spoken to a repair shop in Newport and he did some looking up about the vcr online and said there is some sort of modification on one of the Pcb's that will sort the audio problem out. He didn't elaborate further though. I'll see if he can do me a circuit diagram when he repairs it and post it on here.

Richard ☺

Richard:

It sounds like you have a bad component on the audio board.Transistor maybe capacitor.It could also be a faulty IC.

Sorry I can't be more helpful as I've never come across this yet on a 950.

The SLHF100 suffers from bad transistors and Sony even upgraded the usual culprits on their later 100's.

I feel sure it's a strong possibility on your 950.

.....Kevin

Richard, do you connect your video by RF to TV?

If you are tune in bad or the modulator in bad the sound can be intermittent, if your TV not has composite video in you throw it away, just kidding but is better by the composite video

With the schema you can put a composite video in, RGB in and audio in

Hi Kevin. I've checked for dry joints in the psu on the slhf950 but couldn't see any so I re soldered the whole lot just to make sure. Still didn't cure the sound problem but did cure the vertical colour banding when making recordings on the vcr (very noticeable when recording black and white films).

Checked both the tuner pcb and the audio pcb for dry joints but still no luck in resolving the audio issue. It's very frustrating as the playback picture in all record modes is absolutely superb.

I'm afraid to say that this vcr has beaten me. Now to look for a repair shop that will take it 😢😢

Richard.

Hi all, I have the exact same issue as John Janovsky. IE When I hit the play button

it will start to play but then abruptly stops. The fast forward and rewind

work just fine. My machine is a Sony Betamax SL HF500.

Dirty heads is the only thing that I've found on line that might be the problem...

Cheers

Hi Kevin. The vcr records hi-fi sound with no problems. It happens when the vcr is running for about 10 minutes after its been on standby. Both the scart and bnc/phono outputs are the same. Even when a video is not playing the sound pops and crackles. Very odd.

Thanks for your advice.

Richard.

Richard:

Having read your post again, I would check for dry joints,as you stated when hearing these things from the Freeview routed through the 950.

...Kevin

Hi Stewart:

I can sell you the tyres and all belt's (if you need them too).

Have you ever cleaned the tape path and other important areas on a vcr?

The reason I ask is it's so easy to damage vital components if you hav'nt.

I also offer a full refurb.To ensure the item is perfect.It won't include heads ,if they are worn or faulty (especially hi-Fi ones as most aren't aware when they have failed on the M40 as it automatically goes to the mono (low fi) edgetrack).

If you hover over my name you can see my E-mail address.Contact me further from there.

Richard:

Don't like to say this but is sounds like the Hi-Fi heads may have had it.

Turn the sound to 'normal' and not 'Auto'.Is it OK from then on?

The failing of that erase transformer is common on the 950.

You may still be able to get them new from Visionaids.I did in 2011.

Also checking where the rear socket's are soldered to the board is a good idea for that sound issue too. Another common issue for the HF100 and occasional HF950.

As for the picture colour banding,i would check the caps to the PSU and also chroma board. Also check there for dry joints too.

Good luck...............Kevin

Hi everyone. I've just bought a Sony slhf950 and there are a few problems with it that I need help identifying please.

Firstly intermittent sound when the vcr is receiving signals from a free view box. Sometimes there is sound coming through and then only picture. This happens on playback too. I don't know if it could be dry joints etc. Also when the sound is intermittent it sounds crackly like a Dalek.

Second fault is when playing back it's own recordings it sometimes has vertical colour banding going across the picture. The linear audio does not erase so I'm going to have to change the transformer on the tuner pcb.

Any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Thanks.

Hi K Lambert, thanks for your help. Any idea where to obtain the new tyres and how to clean the path? Thanks again

John Janovsky

name the model

Hi John

Need a make and model number please:)

...Kevin

I have a Betamax player/recorder. When I hit the play button

it starts to play then abruptly stop. Fast forward and rewind

work just fine. What is wrong here? Please advise

and thank you.

alm7rom

In the first video see in the schema the crominance signal and connect the oscilloscope, connect colour bars in the video input

In the other video see in the schema the voltages of the power supply and measure with the voltimeter, if are good check the components

my problem in 2 sony sl-t7me

1-One does not have a color

2-And other video no power just red led in clock

i replace all capacitors in power the green power led won't light

Hi Stewart

All you will need are new tyres and belt's (unless you've changed them all?)

You will also need to clean and refresh the grooves to both supply and take up spools.

The patented idler assemblies always fall apart after few uses The classic ones that is. The top washer comes loose.

I just replace the idler tyres as the original assemblies are bomb proof otherwise.

Cleaning the spool edge groves adds to the longevity of the reel drive.

Also a tiny drop of oil to the top of the reel motor bearing. Just tiny mind you all helps things run superbly for many years.

If you experience a slow tape take up after pressing stop and having refreshed all those components there is a resistor upgrade that will cue that too.

If you want to e-mail me about what you need we'll take it form there.

Hope this helps? ...................Kev

Hi, I am southend on sea Essex

Hi Stewart

Where about are you?

....Kevin

Hello, I need an idler assembly for a Sanyo hi-fi M40. Very slow ff rew and stops in play. Any ideas of how to find one? Many thanks

Jim,

That was good thinking and also good luck.

cheers Noel

I have 10 vintage betamax adult movies they are like new does anyone know what they are worth

Thanks Noel. I did learn that the 50/60 Hz switch on the back is for the electrical system that the VCR is hooked up to. Found this out by looking at the manual for a similar Betamax. So I switched the switch to 60Hz since I'm in the USA. Then turned it on. Put in a tape. Pressed play and it went into play, but then quickly stopped and rewound the tape. Funny thing is that it wasn't at the end of the tape. Learned that there is a tape end LED sensor and I figure it might have got dust/dirt on the LED during delivery. So I opened it up, vacuumed out the inside and now it works!

Hi Kevin.

I will take the cassette carriage out this week and have a good look at the switches and repair as necessary.

The still picture is perfect on own recordings and pre recorded tapes. It even plays Revenge of the Cybermen perfectly which my other beta vcrs don't.

All I need to do now is to try and find the cassette inside slide up flap and maybe an original remote and I'll be sorted lol.

Many thanks again 😊😊

Richard.

Richard

Firstly congrats on GETTING it to work.

As for those switches ,another possibility is the wires which attach to them are severely bent and there is a possibility one has detached/broken itself ,hence why when you tapped each side it suddenly worked.

I have had a couple of these mechanisms apart and you can see why these things happen.

Like Noel states, if something goes out of kilter an awful lot can get damaged. Hence the emergency shutdown.

That's one of the costs of trying to make something over complicated, if quite cool.

At least you can see how good it was performance wise. What's the still frame quality like? (Best on it's own recordings without having to adjust the still tracking).

It should give a very clear noise free pictures. That goes for the various frame by frame modes too.

As for the help, those here who know and can will always be happy too. Always nice to get a successful outcome though :)

........Kevin

Richard

Firstly congrats on GETTING it to work.

As for those switches ,another possibility is the wires which attach to them are severely bent and there is a possibility one has detached/broken itself ,hence why when you tapped each side it suddenly worked.

I have had a couple of these apart and you can see why these things happen.

Like noel states, is something goes out of kilter and awful lot can get damaged. Hence the emergency shutdown.

That one of the costs of trying to make something over complicated, if quite cool.

At east you can see how good it was performance wise. What's the still frame quality like? (Best on it's own recordings without having to adjust the still tracking).

It should give a very clear noise free pictures. That goes for the various frame by frame modes too.

As for the help, those here who know and can will always be happy too.

........Kevin

Hi Noel.

The slide up flap is missing completely . The white plastic lugs either side where it should have been are still there though and operate when the tape is inserted.

It has the die cast metal cogs on the top of the tape loading mechanism. I'm quite surprised at how good the picture is for such an old machine 😊

Richard.

Richard,

There is a swinging flap that comes down when the cassette tape is not loaded and one that slides up when the cassette tape is in.

The second runs up and down on slides and when it jams the ejecting tape pushes against it and jams which is probably the main cause for broken plastic load gears.

Hence the retrofit on brass metal gears if you were lucky enough to get those or die cast metal gears if you were not.

cheers Noel

Hi Noel.

Thanks for the reply. After lots of investigating it seems that the insertion switches are at fault. The machine must have been sat unused for years and after lots of fiddling I've got it to load a cassette by pushing the cassette in and holding it then gently tapping the left and right hand side of the cassette. It then takes it in and loads without problems. I guess if I keep doing this the switches might free themselves up. Also the silver cassette inside flap is missing so I'll need to try and source one of those. Thank you Noel and Kevin for your replies and advice. It's very much appreciated.

Richard.

Richard,

The machine is good and probably only has minor issues with switches etc. However that mucks up the operating sequence and so for safety sake, by design, the machine shuts down.

It might also be a combination of things. Mechanical and switch related. Take of the black load gear that the only rubber belt in the machine sits on and check the underside of it.

Many of these crack causing the gear teeth to spread and jam. See http://www.palsite.com/pcat_gear.html

A tight belt may aggravate this. If you use the original belt but rough up the inside of the V groove on the black pulley with a sharp blade to increase friction it might work OK with the original parts.

The tape ring loading end sensor switch toward the back left hand side of the machine might also be out of adjustment, so the machine does not know that the tapes properly loaded which is why it unloads after a short delay.

You need to take the load mechanism out of the machine to get access to and check the tape loaded switches.

regards Noel

Kevin. I forgot to ask....do I need to take out the cassette carriage to get to the inserting switches?

Richard.

Kevin.

The belt was not a direct replacement but a slightly smaller and thinner one just to see if it would temporarily work til I can source a replacement.

I tried the manual insertion again by turning the spiral gear and when the tape was fully inside the vcr the threading action did not happen. I left the tape in for a few minutes whilst I got on with something else and all of a sudden it sprang to life and threaded. All the tape transport functions work great and I have been making recordings to test the quality. I've not ejected the tape yet as I'm weary it won't accept another tape.

Richard.

Richard

I not you state you changed the tape loading motor belt.

Was this with one of the correct size or a lot tighter?

The tae insertion switches are at the sides of the cassette insertion mechanism.

Also as Noel has mentioned these suffer with poor/leaky transistors. I've seen that on a few HF100 's too.

......Kevin

Hi Noel.

I've just got a tape into the machine by manually turning the spiral gear. When it was fully in the threading ring didn't take the tape around the heads so I turned the black loading gear a bit and then the tape was taken around the head.....the vcr then unloaded and ejected the cassette 😢😢

Seems like it's knackered.

Richard.

Hi Noel.

Thank you for the explanation. I will have another look and try your suggestions a little later today and let you know the outcome. 😆

Thanks again.

Richard.

Richard,

The Sony SLC9 load mechanism failure can have many causes. The machine is not showing a blinking amber load light to indicate a fault so it has not been trying to load and indicating a time out failure.

The metal gears cover off one known issue. The machine has a microprocessor dedicated to load and unload function. The electronic drive transistor can fail and sometimes take out a fuse.

The sense switches tell the microprocessor the conditions 1/ cassette in (sensed by two switches is series) 2/ cassette up (unloaded) and 3/ cassette down (loaded). When the cassette reaches the loaded position the metal bar moves and start the tape threading motion around the heads. The motor is not even trying to load the cassette

With the cassette held into the opening, manually operate the spiral gear to load the cassette and check that the plastic bar in the centre of machine side of the tape load mechanism is engaged with the holder. These sometime slip off if a cassette jams.

Once you get the cassette down the machine should take over and load the tape.

Because this fault is so tricky I have built an interface to tell me what the switch conditions and also it enables me to slave the load mechanism whilst in the machine to check out the mechanical action. I had to do this to isolate whether the loading faults are mechanical/ electrical or both.

regards Noel (betaheaven.com) Australia

regards Noel

Sorry for the first post because i have problem in this page i can't post anything for a long time now ok

my problem in 2 sony sl-t7me

1-One does not have a color

2-And other video no power just red led in clock

i replace all capacitors in power the green power led won't light

hi

Hello,

I recently aquired a ED-V7000 from Japan recently and it does play but the tapes were ejecting on a angle.

Broke the machine down a shocked to see how flimsy the loading assembly was constructed, all plastic and was down right

warped and very wobbly.

My question is is there anyplace that one can source replacement assemblies anymore (I've tried the Sony parts distrubutor

without any luck) or has anybody retrofitted an assembly from an older machine.

Any thoughts or tips would be appreacted.

Hi Kevin. Thanks for the reply and advice. It was sold by a charity that didn't have a tape to check all functions....

The inside is very clean indeed and even has what looks to be the original dc dc converter.

where are the tape inserting switches located please? The silver rod by the loading ring isn't bent or out of alignment to my eyes.

When I changed the tape loading belt the cassette carriage went inside and ejected straight away when switched on.

Regards

Richard.

Richard.

That's the risk with E-Bay vcr's.Unless they've been serviced,refurbed.

No doubt you knew beforehand about this 'issue'.

The C9 is an amazing machine for it's time but DOES suffer with endless problems,unless you get a lightly used one or one that's had the problem areas seen too.

This one seems to have faulty tape insertion switches.

Also you can check the silver bar that of the cassette insertion mechanism.That too activates a switch and if bent or out of alignment will cause issues (it's at the base on the right side at the front of the loading ring mechanism. It's secured with one of those black disc plastic washers.

Hope this helps................Kevin

https://youtu.be/cr9ZDYlNsgw

This is a short video of the Sony betamax c9 problem.

Richard.

Hi all.

I've just bought a Sony c9 which I've now found out will not load cassettes (bought as untested from ebay). The cassette can be inserted fully into the machine but the motor will not take it in and load it. Does anyone have any suggestions please? Incidentally it's had the metal loading gear fitted to the tape carriage.

Regards

Richard.

Jim Jr,

The 50Hz/60Hz switch is most likely for the timer/clock to work properly if you are using the machine on a 240V 50Hz supply via a mains down converting transformer with an output tap for 110V AC.

regards Noel

Hellwyn,

Wagner or WES Components as they are also known in Sydney Australia sell belt kits for the Sony SLC5 and SLC7.

I also have the original Sony service manuals available for them.

regards Noel Higgins (betaheaven.com) Australia

By the way, I'm in the USA. VCR bought in the USA from seller in USA.

I just bought a used BetaMax SL-30 VCR and when looking at the back it says it is a 120V 60Hz 39W VCR but it also has a 50Hz and 60Hz switch on the back allowing one to switch it to either 50 or 60Hz. This switch is also above the power cord but not directly near the power cord. Why would there be a switch if it is only a 60Hz VCR? And the weird thing is that the switch is set for 50Hz. Is this 50Hz/60Hz switch for something other than the power? Could it have been repaired with a power supply that goes either 50 or 60 Hz? The seller indicated no problem with the VCR or that the switch would be needed to be set to 60Hz on the back. Help! I'm afraid to turn it on.