James;

I may have that in my collection, not sure. If I do you are welcome to it.

If I don't get back to you here within a week you'll know if it's not the case.

........Kev

Noel:

Whilst I agree to some extent of what you say, the fact is many don't want to repair things these days.Yes it is a chuck away society in readiness for the 'latest gizmo'.Sadly most if mechanical not very well made now either.

Take those combi decks.I didn't think vcr technology could go so low.

Also there are quite a few who still desire vcr's for useage and enjoying their recordings.I admit a lot do want them to transfer but there are still many who just like to use the format and have a passion for it,judging by the ones I have helped out.

Whilst digital is all very convenient and allows phenominal storage without using much space it's all a bit lacklustre.

I feel very priviledged to have witnessed and even worked for the era when vcr's were making their statement in the world and seeing all the latest developments and what the manufacturers could come up with next.

These days it's all about programming the masses to be lured into mobile phones, Ipods and the like which to some extent keeps everyone transfixed and hypnotised into the direction they want them to move in.

It's kind of worrying to me.

Whilst the internet is one of the most positive aspects of recent years, the lack of person to person communication without aids is detrimental. Not to mention the very hazardous radiation that IS emitted from phone masts and mobile phones.

I will always have a fascination with vcr's in general and am glad I can help others out.It's also nice you can buy those illusive machines for a low price now that many have deserted the technology in droves. Machines that were at the time untouchable in price terms.

It's also obvious they are trying to do away with physical media altogether eventually........yawn.Wheres the fun in that?

..........Kev

Kevin,

The fact that these machines can still work reliably after many years with a little TLC is a testament to their designs in an era in which things where made to last. The fact that plastic parts are breaking now is understandable. VHS VCRs as they were made cheaper and cheaper suffered alignment issues after only a few years of use because of the plastic chassis designs moving in time and changing alignment.

Auto tracking in the VHS machines masked this to an extent until the machines went outside the range of adjustment of started crinkling tapes. The capitalist drive for product turnover and consumerism has fixed that as designs incorporate aspects limiting their effective life.

From my point of view it's not really about the Beta machines themselves now but about the information that is trapped on the medium of beta tapes and cannot be transferred to a digital medium without a working beta VCR. My motivation in repairing beta machines is keeping up my repair skills, because as a consultant I mainly write reports and standards now. I am happy to use media players and hard drives for my media needs. I have a wall of prerecorded beta tapes in my edit room and it is funny to think that they could now be stored on one USB stick.

cheers Noel

Hello, I'm looking for a specific Betamax tape, in either NTSC or PAL format (I have both).

I'm looking for the Clint Eastwood movie "Any Which Way You Can", either recorded from TV or prerecorded.

If anyone is interested in selling or trading, please let me know.

Thank you very much,

Yours sincerely

James McCarty

Kev:

I know I have been hard on the Sanyo Betamax's saying that they should nver be used to copy archival material because of their inherent poor video. I also said all they were good for are the 3 HALL SENSORS (that no one can find as replacements) located inside the capstan motors.

That is all true, but while I was down in the basement I spotted an NTSC model 7250 SuperBeta HiFi VCR. Remembering I had written a report on this player about 20 years ago, I searched my computer files and found the report.

Please read it, I think you will be very happy with it.

"THE SLEEPER BETAMAX CLASSIC"

>>>>The Sanyo Model 7250 SuperBeta HiFi VCR is a "SLEEPER CLASSIC" of the

SuperBeta Stereo VCRs. It's test reports in late 1985 reported it to have 0

db loss at 2 MHz, in the BII speed. This frequency is where all VCRs were

tested for the Record and Playback Video Frequency Response. 0 db would

equal a perfect copy. And even more amazing is that the Sanyo Model 7250

SuperBeta HiFi VCR also received in the test report, a 0 db loss rating at

BIII speed too, which is probably the only Betamax VCR ever to have that

excellent a performance rating at the BIII speed with the exception of the

Sony SLHF-1000 which was reported to have a +2 db performance gain at 2 MHz

at BIII speed on it's record-playback test in 1986. So when it comes to

EXCELLENCE in Picture Performance, there is at least ONE other SuperBeta

HiFi VCR capable of EXTREME EXCELLENCE in performance, beside the Sony

SLHF-1000, and that's the Sanyo Model 7250 SuperBeta HiFi. Even the Sony

SLHF-750 and 900 can't touch the Sanyo Model 7250 at BIII speed or BII speed

performance either. The Sanyo Model 7250 is TRULY a "SLEEPER" in the CLASSIC

High Performance SuperBeta-HiFi VCRs, surpassing the performance of even the

latest VCRs of today.<<<<

Thank you, Mr Beta....

Noel:

I still have those sections you very kindly gave me for that purpose. It's not always about finding new /used alternatives ,it's about being creative and I think between the two of us we've come up with a few good solutions.

Who would've thought after all this time that Beta would still be utilised by many.

A lot wrote it off completely at the beginning of the 90's!

I always preferred the format and am glad we can assist in the way we do to help the many of Betaphiles out there.

....Kev

Gabriel,

In case you were wondering, I use a Dremel super tool with the miniature cutting disc to cut off small sections of tube.

I use the same tool with a grinding wheel to refurbish rubber capstan rollers as previously described on this site.

Kevin,

I have also used the spring technique you mentioned but I don't have a large source of them which is why I went for the tube alternative.

cheers Noel

I think you must be mistaken.

No private message was ever sent in your direction.

Also your past comments about ' personal attacks by our Australian member' well now you can ask Noel what you were reffering to.

Dillusional doesn't seem to sum you up does it.

Kev:

Thank you so much for the private message detailing the tracking potentiometer fix you discovered.

Heating the wiper with a 25 watt pencil iron and melting it into the nylon shaft was a stroke of genius for which I shall be forever grateful.

Hope I didn't betray a confidence writing it here?

I didn't like you after you wrote those nasty words about me here, but now I think you are the best.

On another note, I went down to my basement where I have a pile of Sanyo Betamax's stored. Most of them have that bad clock chip that is located behind the display that always goes bad and for which there is no replacement available.

Got most of them out of dumpsters over the last few decades.

Did a random check, and all the models have the same capstan motor.

Taking out 3 screws is all there is to removing the motor. You then pull out the magnetic rotor and voille'.....you have 3 beautiful HALL SENSORS to repair all the Sonys that you have been saving for the time when you can get those sensors.

Sanyos don't provide much of a picture but they sure provide some nice HALL SENSORS.

Glad I was able to make this known to all our Betamax fans.

Thank you from Mr.Beta....

Noel:

One thing I think we all can agree on here is that all would seem to have their good strong points and then they have their weaknesses that do show up over and over.

Those potentiometers you mention for the tracking control that come apart inside. (Not ALL do though just some). I've just successfully repaired six of them and I believe I've found the way to do this and guarantee they don't break apart again.

I have also repaired one 'D' hole crack for someone an a Sony C30. I used a spring coil that was used for tension to a pinch roller arm. I cut off both long ends and it fitted perfectly and tightly to keep that gap closed.To this day I've never heard anything more about it.

Yes my Toshiba V31 also suffered with that motor arching issue and destroyed many of my beloved recordings by the always laced feature ,on the tape edges. It also made substandard recordings when playing them back on another makers Beta with a noise bar rolling up and down from the bottom of the screen. Another reason whey I avoided these designs.

Like I said before Sony's were considered by some the ultimate of the Beta format, just a shame their build quality didn't match those expectations.

Sanyo were and still are a extremely good all rounder in all respects. Sony could've took a leaf out of their book for design strength. They tried to make thing far too complex and ultimately with more breakage. When the novelty has worn off what good is a item that you cannot use.

Anyways each to their own,we just like to keep them ticking.

.........Kev

Noel,

Nice idea about using the telescopic antenna. I think that sooner than later I will put that into practice because many SLC20 -30 and similar chassis are suffering from that issue.

It is worth noting that most Sanyos don't usually suffer from plastic/gear cracks as Sonys do.

Regards,

Gabriel

To those who don't know.

I have been sharing the beta hobby on Palsite forever or at least it seems that way.

cheers Noel

OPPS sorry about that guys...... Trying to find a new thread to post,not add to another........

Gabriel,

The Sony SL2000S super beta model sold in Australia has the load motor with the universal drive that goes faulty. The plastic shrinks over time and breaks then the gear slips on the shaft which is very hard so you cant drill it to pin the shaft.

Spares replacements can be obtained from Sony VHF top of the range Sony HiFi machines (SLV767, 777 & 815) which are now mostly long dead due to dead power suppliers and capacitor aging issues.

regards Noel

Kevin,

Sanyo machines are basic but reliable in general the Sanyo HiFi machines ( VTC M40 and M50) have two major issues in my view.

1/ Sanyo did not make enough replacement video heads. (I think supplies failed in the 1990s)

2/ The tracking control potentiometer has a defect which causes the wiper to fall off so that you loose tracking control which defaults to one end of the adjustment range. (I am not sure if direct replacements are available) I have repaired some and replaced others but "dummying up" the replacement to mechanically fit the board and take the same control knob is difficult.

regards Noel

Kevin,

The toshibas have head wear issues but the problem I find annoying is that even after putting new heads in, the reel motor wear causes sparking of the brushes on the commutator and this causes blue comets tail interference at random over the screen. It can be reduced to an extent by adding toroids and capacitor filtering to the motor supply leads but the best fix is a replacement motor if you can get one.

Picking up on comments re Sony gears breaking. It is possible to repair the SLC30 /40 etc gear fault on the LHS small gear which cracks across the flat of the D section hole, by cleaning and gluing the crack plus putting a metal sleeve made from a small cut off section off appropriate diameter metal telescopic antenna tube, over the round outer section beside the toothed section.

There is also a repair technique using a pin to pick the more common F30 / F60 broken load gear tooth. You plastic weld the broken tooth back in place then bend a pin in a squared "u" shape to tie it to the previous gear by drilling small holes in both teeth, feeding the u shaped pin shaft through the holes and bending off and cutting the excess protruding through each hole. (much like bridged teeth)

If you observe the designs operation the last tooth is under constant tension once the tape is loaded so no wonder they break when the plastic gets brittle with age.

regards Noel

Phil:

No worries my friend I'm sure we'll find the culprit.

I also have a stack of Sony's with worn heads,broken gears,bad ic's,transistors and some canabalised by others for parts that come in useful for spares.

With a Sanyo they are 99% of the time up and ready to go after a good service.Lasting and keeping their owners extremely happy for many years to come.The VTC 5000 is very popular with the video transfer companies.I've helped with those companies a lot.they are always impressed by how long they last afterwards.

Toshiba's were notorious for bad head wear too but the V31B did have a nice performance.Better than some Sony's too I'd say, just a shame they are always laced up.

That always laced system as we all know really was detrimental to excessive head and tape wear eventually.Still knowones perfect eh:)

..Kev

Kev, Gabriel and Noel: a broken tooth on a gear of some sort is at least one problem I believe to be apparent on a F30 that I have, as something sounds to be 'clicking' over something else but with no rotation (Kev, this is the one you're getting soon!) but even with a soldering iron and a brain [really?!], it would be sheer stupidity to try and be a have-a-go hero.

Phil

Welcome to the Palsite, Noel.

You sound like a real technician who has actual hands on experience which can be quite helpful.

Those 4th generation front loaders are behaving just as you described and your fix is one that I have used and has been quite satisfactory.

Happily you guys over there haven't experienced the 5th generation front loaders because they are really cheaply made and failures are inevitable.

With all the scrum going on here, I hope COOPER understands that he needs to replace the HALL SENSORS that initially Kevin agreed they weren't there from the photo. Guess that's a fair assessment if you haven't had much experience with Sony.

If COOPER missed this, here is where he can get all the HALL SENSORS he or anyone else needs:

"The good thing about Sanyo Betamax is that they are a literal Gold Mine for the rare and unavailable Hall Sensor. For a few pounds you can find them on eBay, take out the hall sensors from the capstan motor and have your superior Sony Betamax up and running."

Guess no else knew this, because so far it has not been mentioned. Some rare Toshiba models were mentioned, but Sanyos are much more plentiful for spares.

Thank you

Gabriel:

I've seen the missing gear tooth on one F30 and also a cracked one on a C30 and HF100 of the ones I've seen.

The smaller black one for the tape loading I've seen four or five times.

Yes, mode switches are renound for going haywire.The way I've sorted them is to use a cleaning fluid without even disassembling them and all have behaved themselves since.It's usually down to the grease manufacturers have used which seems to block the signals after time.Far better to leave them free of substance.

.....Kev

Noel, Kevin,

Carriage assemblies are one of the weaknesses of Sony machines. Early models ( C30 and similars) break one gear on the left side and it eventually drops from the axis.

After that, we have the typical missing tooth on the right side on F30s/F60s.

As you have also pointed, latter models suffer from this issue but this time is usually due to the worn gear (some kind of universal joint on the motor axis which cracks open).

SL200ME is not quite common to see here, but the mechanism is very similar (if not the same) to models SL-F65, SL-F73 and SL-F75. Such models use a rotary mode switch, like many VHS machines, which sometimes makes the VCR go haywire.

Noel:

Thanks :)

I also re grease all the tape loading mechanisms on any Sony I see.It's one way to be sure.

(Yes I figured that out and am convinced it's the same person, obviously getting their diatribe from a website).

.....Kev

Kevin,

Keep up the good fight. The comments about Sanyos were just goading you. That person also appears to talk to themselves in order to promote debate. To say that all you need to fix a beta is a soldering iron and a brain was made by someone who clearly talks about repairing rather than actually doing it.

I would not have collected so many spares machines if they were not needed for parts.

Back to the Beta hobby. I noticed recently that the less common Sony beta multisystem models and late model designs that use one tape cover flap opening inward and up, are with age prone to not ejecting tapes reliably. The lubrication (grease) hardens up and the friction increases to the point where it becomes to hard for the drive motors to overcome.

A breakdown of the tape load gear mechanism, cleaning, regreasing and reassembly fixes this. The last unit I repaired in this manner was a Sony SL200ME Pal/Secam machine.

regards Noel

Good to know that Hall sensors are still there :-)

On the other hand, optical sensors are used for security purposes on these machines. They should send pulses to the Servo/System board so as to confirm that everything is running OK. In the event of a tape stuck or mechanical problem (when PB, FFWD or REW), the machine would "know" that condition and promptly will shut down.

Curiously, in many Sanyo machines they also serve as tape counters. This is due to their lacing/unlacing design, because they can't use the CTL pulses (the tape is not threaded on the CTL head during high speed transport modes).

Regards

Gabriel

Cooper:

No need to apologise.My first theory was correct and that shudder is what made me think it in the beginning.

We are all here to learn one way or another.

I also wouldn't worry about the 'other goings on'.It's being taken care of.

Good luck......Kev

Must appologise to all - sensors as per picture. Missed them as believed them to be like the larger ones as per capstain motor!

Sorry, looking at that - I think i will take another look!

No hall sensor. Believe speed controlled by graduations under cassette bobbins - optical I think. Initiating motor spin is the issue as some times when turned to a certain position will spin. and if prompted manually spins also.

A picture showing the position of the sensors (see red circles). Please copy-paste the following link:

http://tinypic.com/r/11ccrqv/9

Don't worry Cooper, I am willing to offer help on this site whenever possible.

About your "non-existing" Hall effect sensor, are you really sure they are not under the magnet of the rotor? They should appear as a couple of tiny black rectangles, aligned with the surface of the circuit board. But it is necessary to remove the rotor magnet to see them.

Finding a second unit might be an option, but I would give yours a second chance.

Hope this helps,

Gabriel

Well! I think I seem to have walked into some sort of pitch battle!

Anyway none of this helps me - and it is quite telling - especially as the reel motor does not have a hall sensor!

I supplied a video clip to Kev - and he is in agreement.

Anyway, anyone know what components to replace on the reel motor board? or will the suggestion be just to get a new one? (but from where may I ask?)

I don't want to offend anyone - just want to fix my Beta.

Ammonia:

You need to speak to Jon (Steve) he's all clued up with NTSC bit's and pieces.

We are only clued with PAL here.

Good luck.......

My Sony ED Beta didn't sell so it is relisted at a lower reserve under this ebay number 111814756912

As you guys know this thing is a beast about 40 lbs

Hey. So while back I went to a junk sale, and found a Sony HVC-4000P, but it lacked a VTR, so I've been searching on eBay for one. Minimum being around $100. xD

So I'm instead looking for just a K connector female plug on it's own, which I could hook up to, say, a coaxial plug or something. Know where I could find one?

Steve

Your cover is blown.

Time for you to move on.

It's getting obvious I think you are NOT WELCOME HERE!!!!!!

ADIOS.................

The main idea behind ALL Sanyo Beta models was to provide a mundane performing

machine at an economical price. Therefore, all the Sanyos would not be one's first choice in archiving home videos.

The good thing about Sanyo Betamax is that they are a literal Gold Mine for the rare and unavailable Hall Sensor. For a few pounds you can find them on eBay, take out the hall sensors from the capstan motor and have your superior Sony Betamax up and running. You can throw the rest of the Sanyo in the skip.

One last thought, mechanically speaking Pal and NTSC are virtually identical in their mechanical funcions so we do have a lot in common.

Long live Sony and long live the Sanyo parts machines for the hall sensors.

Thank you.

Yes. I am in complete agreement with you, Kev. Perhaps even go so far as to have a temporary suspension of the Beta chatpage for new posts, until certain poster/s (possibly even one and the same person) can have a playground of their own.

Phil

Jon(or whatever your name is).

I think you could benefit from going back and looking at ALL your posts.

Don't make yourself out to be the innocent one here my friend.

You come here with a I am mightier than though attitude and make derogatory remarks about others suggestions and also another manufacturers products because you will see it no other way.

I don't care what PHD you have your attitude here from the onset is not what this site is about.

If you don't agree with me ask the other regular posters.

Giving out false/derogatory info is your idea of helping and being mature is it.

I beg to differ.

I too have contacted Martin in the hope we can get a NTSC page for you and your countrymen so you can leave us all in peace.

Anyone else like to add anything?

...........

Kev, the NAME CALLING goes against the posting guidelines direct from Martin.

Let's have constructive dialogue and refrain from that sort of nastiness.

Jon(or whatever your name is).

I think you could benefit from going back and looking at ALL your posts.

Don't make yourself out to be the innocent one here my friend.

You come here with a I am mightier than though attitude and make derogatory remarks about others suggestions and also another manufacturers products because you will see it no other way.

I don't care what PHD you have your attitude here from the onset is not what this site is about.

If you don't agree with me ask the other regular posters.

Giving out false/derogatory info is your idea of helping and being mature is it.

I beg to differ.

I too have contacted Martin in the hope we can get a NTSC page for you and your countrymen so you can leave us all in peace.

Anyone else like to add anything?

...........

The recent posts from both Kev and Gabriel regarding specific items to check with regards to Cooper's machine problems have been interesting to read. And as for the bombproof Sanyo's, absolutely. My 5150 has withstood some heck of abuse from me over several years, and still it soldiers on.

Phil

Kev, the NAME CALLING goes against the posting guidelines direct from Martin.

Let's have constructive dialogue and refrain from that sort of nastiness.

I simply mentioned (and for the first time here on the Palsite) that those illusive Hall Sensors can easily be found in all the Sanyo Betamax units.

I think that was a wonderful revelation, so now people who have abandoned their players can now go ahead and make a simple repair.

Is this the reason for your hurtful remarks? It just doesn't make sense for you to be so upset that you would jeopardize the priviledge of posting on this site.

My name is Jon Pierre, I have a PHD and am a life long electronics expert well known in my country. Who you are and what your credentials are no one knows.

Stop your nonsense and be the nice person I know you can be. Between the two of us we can really help a lot of people repair their units at home without discarding them or sending them out somewhere to someone unknown for repair...Thank you.

Like I stated Betaphiles..........

IGNORE all posts and ramblings from Jon Pierre/Steve.He is a TROLL.Nothing more nothing less.

Now back to normality.

The main idea behind ALL Sanyo Beta models was to provide a mundane performing

machine at an economical price. Therefore, all the Sanyos would not be one's first choice in archiving home videos.

The good thing about Sanyo Betamax is that they are a literal Gold Mine for the rare and unavailable Hall Sensor. For a few pounds you can find them on eBay, take out the hall sensors from the capstan motor and have your superior Sony Betamax up and running. You can throw the rest of the Sanyo in the skip.

One last thought, mechanically speaking Pal and NTSC are virtually identical in their mechanical funcions so we do have a lot in common.

Long live Sony and long live the Sanyo parts machines for the hall sensors.

Thank you.

Gabriel:

A very informative and detailed response you have given to assist in Coopers issues.

I think many will find that helpful.

I have only ever come across one faulty reel drive board on the HF100 and nothing would turn at all.

To save time I used a good one from a spares Sony.Something they are getting very useful for as their design and complexity leads to many deserting their attempts at repairing.Hall sensors,transitors and fragile plastic gear being their main achillies heels.

Long live Sanyo,for they are bomb proof very rarely suffer electronic issues and give great results and protect the tape well too.

Anyone else here with a PAL Beta issue?

Cheers guys.................Kev

Yes, Kev, completely agree.

I will try to continue offering help on this board, as long as I have enough time for that.

Regards,

In case this got lost in the nonsense:

"Cooper,

Kevin was correct in the first sentence of his first reply to your question.

Everything else that was written by him and others are superfluous.

You need to replace both hall sensors on the reel pc board and you will be fine.

Only problem is, the hall sensors are not available as replacement parts.

What I would do is purchase any cheap Sanyo (i.e. 5150, 4400 etc.) and take apart the capstan motor. There you will find 3 hall sensors that you can use to make your repair. Save the extra one for the head motor if it becomes necessary to replace it at a later date. Sanyos are good for that purpose, but never purchase one for archiving your video tapes.

All the best, thank you."

The Palsites members constant argumentative comments and attempts at goading me into personal attacks are being observed and taken under consideration.

Nobody is saying anything about making money. Don't know where that came from.

The more I try to help folks here, the more anger is directed at me.

Gabriel,(his new name) never even told Cooper where he could obtain replacement hall sensors...I did.

Again, stop the anger and name calling and try to help people with correct, not verbose and too technical suggestions.

Thank you.

Betaphiles:

Can I politely suggest you ignore ALL posts by Jon Pierre.

It would seem his ultimate aim has been to degenerate all other genuine contributors to this site (read his posts).Some have been here many years and have the same amount in experience.

Also this site is primarily for the help and advice to Beta enthusiasts (Mainly with the PAL system) but others overseas with the NTSC seem to want help too.Trouble being those models are different from PAL in a variety of ways so help here is limited in that respect.

Being helpful and civil is one thing but slaying others technical comments,accusing other of being angry and the ultimate condemning of a particular manufacturer is not.

Ask the hundreds who use said manufacturers machines and see what answers you get back.

I also feel you are if not connected to Steve that you are one and the same.

I note the 'thankyou' at the end of your posts. Something they also did and what knowone else does.

It seems those based in the US are determined to stir thing up here for whatever reason.

I also don't really care how this post affects my own standing here.

Most can see who's at fault.

Time to stop this nonsense.Or remove those who are obviously here to annoy others.

I've said all I've got to say.

I've better things to do than waste my time dealing with disruptive, I am mightier than though, individuals.

What kind of troll are you telling me I am "manipulative"? Are you suggesting I try to make a penny on this site? Come on, don't make me laugh.

Keep giving your advice with such arrogance, making friends wherever you post. Also enjoy your fantastic Sony NTSC machines my friend.

Cooper,

In my vast experience, the fact that you mentioned the motor "shuddered" is proof enough that one or both of the hall sensors failed. I've seen this many, many times and the fix is always the sensors. Period.

I.C. links failing would cause no shudder effect, so that suggestion is absurd.

Lots of bad info on this site as well as angry, manipulative "technicians". I use that word guardedly.

Let me re-state my original and correct fix:

"Kevin was correct in the first sentence of his first reply to your question.

Everything else that was written by him and others are superfluous.

You need to replace both hall sensors on the reel pc board and you will be fine.

Only problem is, the hall sensors are not available as replacement parts.

What I would do is purchase any cheap Sanyo (i.e. 5150, 4400 etc.) and take apart the capstan motor. There you will find 3 hall sensors that you can use to make your repair. Save the extra one for the head motor if it becomes necessary to replace it at a later date. Sanyos are good for that purpose, but never purchase one for archiving your video tapes.

All the best, thank you."

Sanyo vcr's are perfect for archiving video tapes to DVD or a PC.

Please disregard any comments to the contrary from a disgruntled Sony fanatic.

.thankyou.

Superfluous? Are you 100% sure the cause of that failure are the Hall effect sensors? It is much better tracking the issue and isolate the failed component before making assumptions. Last time I saw a similar failure was caused by an IC link (PS fuse) so many factors are involved on these machines.

On the other hand, Sanyo betas are worth having machines, infinitely more reliable than Sonys. So, I don't see the point of using them as scrap for spares.

Cooper,

Kevin was correct in the first sentence of his first reply to your question.

Everything else that was written by him and others are superfluous.

You need to replace both hall sensors on the reel pc board and you will be fine.

Only problem is, the hall sensors are not available as replacement parts.

What I would do is purchase any cheap Sanyo (i.e. 5150, 4400 etc.) and take apart the capstan motor. There you will find 3 hall sensors that you can use to make your repair. Save the extra one for the head motor if it becomes necessary to replace it at a later date. Sanyos are good for that purpose, but never purchase one for archiving your video tapes.

All the best, thank you.

Cooper,

In the previous post, I meant the configuration should be as follows:

Reel table connector pin Value (VDC)

1 -------------------------> 0V (Ground)

2 -------------------------> +12V

3 -------------------------> 0V (Ground)

4 -------------------------> +5V (thru the regulator or the +5V rail from the mentioned PC power supply)

Caution: All this should be performed with this assembly REMOVED/DISCONNECTED from the VCR. Otherwise, there is risk of short circuiting the servo board.

Cooper,

Regarding your issue with the reel motor, and according to Kev, first suspect from the two Hall effect sensors behind the rotor. I also remember that board having two or three capacitors which are easy to change. After that, I would check the transistors (6 x 2SD992) for open or leak. Sony betas are known for having problems with transistors.

Finally, if all six transistors are OK, last thing to "culprit" is the switch IC labeled as "877". I have not seen many of these failing but chances are still there.

It is also quite easy to check the whole motor board with the help of a 12V PSU. It has four terminals "1-2-3-4". First, try to identify the + / - terminals as follows: positive terminal 2 goes towards IC pin #8 and negative terminal 3 goes towards IC pin #9. Having these two identified, last thing to do is connecting connector terminal 1 to ground and terminal 4 to +5VDC (if your psu does not have an independent 5V output, you can perform this with a 7805 regulator). However, it is quite practical trying this with a computer power supply :-). Rotor should start to rotate if everything is OK.

Regards,

Gabriel

Cooper:

My apologies I was thinking about the capstan motor.

................Kevin

Cooper;

Whilst I've never come across that issue it does sound like you may have one failed hall effect sensor.

This is very common on the Sony's head drum down to glue that get's conductive over time.

The reel motor has three sensors.

I would've suspected towards a worn bearing but if you say the clearance is fine then that's all that's left. Especially since you describe the shudder. A sign that current is getting through.

If the hall effect sensor fails to the head drum and you try to turn the head disc from the top whilst the PLAY light is on you will feel resistance until the play light goes off.If it's not the sensor then the disc spins freely regardless.

Since you have some aspect of motion to the reel motor I would look there. Sadly you will have to find good used ones if it is the case.

Let us know.....................Kev

Basically I have no reel rotation FF/F/REW. I do have a video clip that I would like to post which clearly shows the fault (can I post this somewhere, somehow?). I checked clearance as per reel motor mod - which is fine - no sign of rubbing on coils. The motor does not spin on pressing any of the buttons unless assisted manually - sometimes if the rotor is in a specific position it will spin. In other positions the rotor does "shudder" but not spin - indicating that an induced magnetic field is present. Are there any further tests/checks that I could perform? I checked the induction coils with a multimeter and for what i know they seem fine.

Cooper:

Need to know what the issues are first my friend.

Post away.............Kev

Hi, Just been given a Sony SL-HF100 that had been stored for many years. Powered it up but have a slight problem with it. Have already checked this site Q&A's to see if issue covered - but not. Is this the place to ask technical questions? If so I will post more details, if not is there a technical resource site that you know of that could possibly help?

I have contacted Martin.

The Australian member's constant argumentative comments and attempts at goading me into personal attacks are being observed and taken under consideration.

They do not affect me, but we believe they denigrate the integrity of the Palsite

To continue my dissertation on video tape:

Betacam tapes are OXIDE based FerroCobalt doped tape. Betacam-SP tapes are

Metal Particle Tapes, not needed for SuperBeta or SHB-B1s at all, but work

fine if used for such, if you can afford it. Betacam-SP tapes are NOT

dangerous or injurious to SuperBeta VCRs at all. In fact they run ever

smoother with less wear than Oxide Tapes, by far , as has long been shown in

laboratory tests. Where does such Wrongful misinformation get started?

Chromium Dioxide tape when introduced to the audio and video world in 1970 was

also "rumored" FALSELY, to be injurious and damaging to standard tape heads

in older recorders. This was untrue also, as Dupont, who "invented" Chrome

tape, proved that they ran, smoother, and were LESS wearing to heads than

standard Oxide tapes. Why do people persist in believing that every NEW

advancement in Tape Technology is detrimental to previous technology heads?

I have a PhD in Clinical Psychology, and yet this "logic" or "lack of it"

eludes me totally, when it comes to man's stupidity!The only "TRUTH" that

can be demonstrated as real is that Americans universally have always,

historically, made the worst possible choice of technology, when given a

choice.The American dislike and abandonment of BETA, is not the only mistake

we have made, historically, in superior technology. In 1933 RCA-Victor Corp.

offered the Vinyl LP Record with Wide Band High Fidelity Sound to the public

in Listening Tests, at the Chicago Worlds Fair of 1933-34, where average Fair

Visitors were allowed to compare the sound quality in A-B tests with the

standard noisy shellac narrow band 78 RPM standard records of that time

period. By an overwhelming majority, the American Public chose the narrow

band noisy 78 RPM shellac records as their preference over the quiet running

Vinyl wide band HiFi LP Record !The LP was then given to the Radio

Networks who appreciated it superior quality and used it for Radio Broadcast

Transcription Recording, much the same as the American Public's rejection of

BETA allowed the TV Broadcast Industry to adopt BETA as the STANDARD of

Broadcast Recording in today's era.The same is true for the public's

rejection of Sony MiniDisc and DAT as a quality replacement for the 35 year

old standard audio cassette tape, and yet the Broadcast Radio & Recording

World took it and used it as their in field Recording Standard. It amazes me

how absolutely ignorant the choices of the American Public is HIS

Interesting comments you make there.....

I do agree that even the Beta tapes I have from the late seventies still play really well and all that talk about tape deterioration after so many years ,was nothing more than scare tactics to get you to buy the latest digital disc technology.

As for this tape 'ripping out to load' on Sanyo models.I seem to remember the Sony C5, 7 and C6 all utilised the same, if not VERY similar loading system and all the Sanyo models I own and have used a lot have never done any damage by stretching or the like by loading in this way.Sanyo decided to do this to extend the head/drum life and overcome these issues and judging by the ones I've seen it works pretty darn well.

Damage caused by being un serviced or by faulty/worn components yes but that is usually when trying to put the tape back in.

Also you could say ( and I still do) that Sony's always laced feature is even more detrimental (if quicker between modes) to tape wear and tear (and all heads) in the fast wind modes.Even more so than VHS as the Beta tape path is very tortuous.I'm sure you have come across the tape bumping syndrome when the upper drum has excessive friction causing Sony to make these out of a different alloy.

....

Let's talk video tape, which are all the same for NTSC and PAL.

I recently have had to get out some 20 to 25 year old recorded Beta Tapes

that were recorded for Broadcast at Standard Bl speed on industrial Sony

Betamax video recorders and edit them all together for a Historical

documentary I am doing for Broadcast locally. With all the talk of Video

Tape not holding up much past 10 to 15 years, unless extraordinary storage

measures are used, let me tell you my personal experience.

These 20 to 25 year old multiple brands of Beta Video Tape including the

brands of; Sony, 3M Scotch, Laser, and Maxell standard Betamax Tape bought

off the shelves of ordinary department stores at the time they were new, were

stored in all the WRONG ways, in ordinary room temperature, varying humidity

levels, not placed vertically as they should be, and yet every one of them

played back as well as if they had just been recorded freshly today the first

time. The sound, color, and picture were excellent, with no drop outs or

tape sticking or lubricant loss noted, and the picture quality of the old

original Bl Mono Color recordings done with Studio Cameras and Industrial

Sony Bl only Betamax video recorders was sharp and clean as can be without a

trace of aging, even across a quarter of a century of improper storage! So

don't worry about loss of image or sound quality or deteriorating tape or

oxide over that period of years as I own some Video Tape on open reel that is

30 years old that still plays fine too and with the worst possible storage

conditions as well. And remember these are samples of multiple brands of

Beta Tape including the low price "cheapo" brand of LASER Betamax Tape as

well, all of which performed like new regardless of brand after all these

years of improper storage. So your Betamax Video tapes you have should play

back equally as well 25 years from now, regardless of brand, also as long as

you have a working Betamax to play them on in the year 2025 and as long as

you do you can transfer them all to Sony Digital Video Tape at that future

date with confidence for showing during the rest of this Century and for

generations to come !!!However, if you use a SANYO model to view your tapes, you should be mindful that they virtually RIP the tape out of the cassette at a fast rate of speed. I needn't tell you of how dangerous that can be. Thank you.

Phil:

The sad thing is I've seen this quite a few times and the job made a lot worse and more time consuming.

One area that should never be touched unless absolutely necessary are the tape guides. Some it seems think by 'loosening them up' it will make the tape play better, when the issue is down to worn rubber components or issues with the reel drive motor.

These guides are factory set under strict tolerances and should never be moved unless ,as a last resort, maybe one is very slightly out of position. Which is extremely rare.

My advice is if your not sure leave well alone or get some good advice first.

There are also some really good vcr repair sites that can help in this area too. Admittedly these are getting thin on the ground but some still out there. Including this one. ALL free of course.

..Kev

As Kev said, when problems arise with a Beta (or any machine containing electronics) it is prudent to seek expert advice first rather than attempting ANYTHING, otherwise chances are that a simple fault could be made much worse AND end up being either more expensive and time-consuming to correct, or result in irreparable damage.

Murray Walker summed this up beautifully along the lines of, those that can, DO, and those that can't, talk about it. I'm definitely only the latter, and even then it's still usually a load of {insert word here}!

My mistake,you are in the US not Australia so that leaves 'Mr Betamax', and I seem to remember the general put downs of Sanyo Beta's there too.

Also if you're not 'in it for the money' you'd give you vcr's away.

I don't think the 'if you've got a brain you can do a repair' comment will go down well with many either. Quite insulting to those who cannot or are not willing to attempt such things.

I must say your first post isn't exactly a good way to introduce yourself and you shouldn't listen to other misguided individuals fabrications towards other genuine posters here either.

Enjoy your day...........Thankyou.

..........Oh and just to add in case there are any more misquotes or accusations from 'certain individuals' advice that is FREE OF CHARGE and always has been.

Happy viewing ...........

Jon pierre

You obviously have the same schooling an attitude of your friend Steve it would seem.

Read the top of the page if your unsure PALSITE........

Also all this info is not what most here seem to desire.It's help and good genuine advice for their vcr's when they have issues or require help.

Your ramblings about ED beta and the like will go over many heads.

Also just curious are you Corbeta on e-bay?

.............

Kev, can you believe the new poster's statement regarding the Sanyo 5150 being a "disgrace to the Betamax badge"? Recently recovered a 36-year-old UK television recording from a Betamax videotape using my 5150 which has been in almost daily use for the past 7 years and even then having been acquired as a second-hand unit, and the picture and sound quality was stunning.

Just like videotapes being able to be rewound and watched again, it seems as though it's deja vu on this board again, only more so.

Succinct and to the point, and not droning on. YAWN!

Guess I do not belong here?

It seems if posting Betamax facts do not interest Mr. Lambert, than the person posting should remain silent.

When did you become the arbiter of what should and should not be posted?

Also, for example, the Sanyo 5150 (sold here in Canada as the 4400) is a prime example of just one of many Sanyo models that were a disgrace to the Betamax badge.

They are no better that VHS slp with their poor video resolution and as we in the industry referred to the images as "clay people".

The tapes are loaded in them with a rapid "ripping out" motion that I always found quite harmful to the delicate video tapes.

By the way, their factory schematics are a horror to navigate.

I could go on, but enough. Sanyo did make a few acceptable models at the end of their run...but that's all.

Sorry for upsetting a member who apparently has personal reasons for his misguided appreciation of Sanyo video. I will continue to post here, despite any protests from our distinguished Australian member.

I'd like to acquaint you EU lads with the SUPER HI-BAND 6.0 Mhz or SHB-B1s. And in its ULTIMATE form as showcased in:

The 1991 Sony SLHF-2100 is spectacular as the 2100 incorporates SHB-B1s

with a 5 stage Digital Signal Processor (not Digital Effects processor) that

electronically cleans and digitally optimizes actively BOTH the incoming and

outgoing signals from Beta tapes so it improves even older Super Beta or

Standard Beta tapes in playback and makes recordings on the SLHF-2100

spectacular, especially considering it is the ONLY Prosumer VCR of ANY format

EVER to have seperate Video Heads for Recording and Playback with each

optimized for their specific function solely. It is a stupendous VCR, so far

ahead of anything even in today's video world of consumer VCRs that it's name

2100 stands for the Technology of the 21st Century!!! Which it most

certainly has. No finer Betamax VCR has ever been built !!! When Video

Magazine tested the 2100 in 1991, they reported that you could put anything

into it and get it back on playback virtually unaltered or loss free. You

can't do that with S-VHS or S-VHS ET or even SuperBeta for that matter. And

to top it all off it has S-Video Y/C input and output jacks and 3 inputs plus

a two way "talkback" LCD remote, 10 years before those kind of remotes became

popular and cost $350.00 alone now today as an add on by many companies such

as Harmon Kardon. And of course it has the VASTLY superior Beta HiFi system

of Stereo recording that matches CD quality to the letter 20-20,000 hz flat

and 95 db S/N ratio or better, with auto head cleaner and digital auto

tracking, plus a full dual VU meter, and visual Tracking Meter, plus context

sensitive digital report screen readout, and automatic pre-roll editing when

used with another 2100 or 1000, or 9500 Betamax and the Sony Auto Editor

unit, plus DUAL flying erase heads that take out BOTH fields of each frame of

video unlike single flying erase heads on S-VHS machines that leave parts of

the frame as moire effect in editing. And of course it has Insert Audio and

Insert Video editing capability, essential to any Professional Video

application. It is simply the FINEST Prosumer VCR Sony has ever made!

Hi Betaphiles.

Just thought I'd point out this is PALsite not NTSC site so all this info regarding ED beta (Japan and US only) is a bit irrelevant, as the PAL versions weren't privy to those models.

Also Sanyo models video quality were not ALL inherently poor either.I don't even think any were poor maybe some a bit average. The budget end achieved quite decent results when you consider their price.My own 6500 and 5000 looked better on screen than those washed out and grainy VHS models around the same time(They had to use 'HQ' circuitry to even give them respectable results).The VTC M40 's picture bandwidth was around 2.8 and the Sony SLHF100 and most of their line up ( C20, 30,40 and F30 ) were 2.5.

We only had ONE Superbeta model in the UK and then Sony lost faith in the format over here and pursued 8mm and ED beta in Japan and the US.

Have you seen how basic the SLF25 was! It looked like they didn't care anymore and were trying just keeping the small amount of UK buyers content. It obviously didn't work.

...........K

Reading some archived posts here on the chatpage, I've noticed questions concerning what the basic differences are within a class or year of Betamax VCRs in terms of sound and picture quality from the lowest priced

model to the top priced model, and if there is any difference. My answer of

course is, that within a given TYPE of Betamax, for example, SuperBeta HiFi

VCRs, there is virtually NO difference from the cheapest to the most

expensive in the performance of the Beta HiFi Stereo Sound system at all as

it is a function of the AFM Rotary Recording System that comprises the Beta

HiFi system that is the same in ALL of the Beta HiFi VCRs actually whether

they are Super Beta or Standard Beta or ED-Beta or B1s-Super High Band Beta.

The sound system is EXCELLENT with performance that is not effected by tape

brand or type at all and is flat from 20-20,000 hz within a fraction of a

decibel and with a Beta HiFi distortion too low to even hear, and a signal to noise ratio that

is 85 to 95 db depending on the recording levels set, which is fully

comparable to what is termed "CD Quality". And because it is not a linear

audio track, it is not subject to the variances of alignment azimuth of audio

heads either, so it is absolutely flawless in ANY Beta HiFi Stereo VCR ever

made and identical in all models ever made too.

However, the PICTURE quality does vary within a given type of Betamax VCR,

such as "SuperBeta" from the lowest priced to the highest priced models.

That's due to the quality of production standards, the tracking accuracy, the

amount and type of video noise reduction used, the type and number of heads

used, and the electronic specialty circuits added to the top models of the

SuperBeta line of VCRs such as the addition of the Faroudja Image Enhancement

System to some Sony SuperBeta VCRs which is marked on the back of your

Betamax if you have it. And obviously the TYPE of

Betamax VCR you have

(**Sanyos** are widely noted for poor video quality) also determines it's maximum Picture Quality too by the range of it's given VIDEO BANDWIDTH which determines the horizontal resolution of the Betamax TYPE. For example, SuperBeta has a wider Video Bandwidth than standard Beta, and Super Hi-Band B1s has a still wider yet Video Bandwidth than SuperBeta has, and ED-Beta has the widest Video Bandwidth of all and requires Metal Powder Tape to even work. There are also other factors that determine a VCRs picture quality such as it's White Clip level which determines its saturation of signal peak in the luminance portion of

the video signal. So I hope this helps you to understand the differences and sameness within various TYPES of Betamax VCRs in performance, and the "Beta Advantage" too !!! Thank you.

Been thinking more about my EDV and thought you EU folks would like to know a bit more about it, especially the Japanese version.

The Japanese Sony EDV-9000-PRO is in many ways identical to our former Sony

EDV-9500 in the USA and an almost virtual copy of the former Canadian Sony

EDV -9300.

It records and plays both in Super Beta and ED Beta formats and is N.T.S.C.

capable as ours are too. It has a different broadcast band in it's tuner and

direct Broadcast Satellite capability that our USA model does not. It

records SHB-B1s which our's do not in the USA or Canada. And it has the wood

end caps in Walnut in place of the USA EDV-9500 model's rack mount handles

and steel sides. It is a high performance Extended Definition Beta VCR with

a video bandwidth of 9.3 Mhz which is incredible ultra high band resolution.

And it records with both Beta HiFi Stereo AFM audio tracks and Linear Stereo

analog audio tracks with BNR Noise Reduction on those. It is marked with all

English markings on the controls as it is an export model. It records on

both Standard and Metal Powder Beta Tape in their respective formats. Has a

large Jog Shuttle on the front that is digitally assisted, has Digital Freeze

Frame, Scan, and Flash Motion, and is sitting on four chrome pods to raise it

up for proper ventilation. All in all it is a stunning machine !! Thank you.

By Dave mentioning the wonderful EDV -9300, it puts me in mind of the importance of the control track.

There seems to be some confusion over the need for and importance of a video

tape's control track. This has surfaced in many letters questioning what it

is and does. So let me explain it as simply as possible. In short the

Control Track which is recorded along the edge of the video tape, is the

equivalent of the Sprocket Holes on the edge of Motion Picture Film and

serves a similar purpose. Like Sprocket Holes it has control over the

presentation of each FRAME of Video much the same as the Sprocket Holes

control the FRAME and Synchronize it to the projector's precise projection

window frame inside the projector, centering it, advancing it the right

amount, moving it out and moving another frame into its place while a blank

section of the projector shutter is pulled around to blank out the between

frame parts of the film. The Video Control Track does all this too, making

sure the blanking interval is in position between frames, the picture is

presented in a series of frames and is timed correctly with the

synchronization of the TV monitor and VCR, scan line by scan line and field

by field of each frame. When interruptions, such as pauses are inserted in

the video Control Track, by a Consumer Grade VCR, it can cause the total

breakup of the picture on screen or the picture to roll or bend vertical

lines to one side called "flagging". The importance of this Video Control

Track being undisturbed from one end of the video tape to the other with no

breaks is of the same relevance as the need for the sprocket holes to be an

exact EVEN distance from each other with no breaks all the way from the

beginning of the film to the ending. Without either, the picture suffers

horrendous degradation in it's presentation such as the often seen shuttering

and stuttering movie projector that has lost it's sprocket hole

synchronization. I hope that explains it a bit better and why the need for

"Black Tracking" or recording an entire Video Control Track end to end of a

Video Tape to be Broadcast is so important as a first step as this lays down

an undisturbed control track all the length of the video tape. Only machines such as the SLHF-1000,SLHF-900, SLHF-2100, EDV-9000-PRO, EDV -9300, and EDV-9500 have such

capability in the Betamax series of recorders as they have the facilities for

INSERT EDITING that never touches the control track during editing of a

pre-black tracked video tape. Thank you.

Hi I have a EDBeta EDV -9300 with quide and remote on ebay now sorry though with a reserve because I dont want to give it away

the link to it is here

http://my.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MyEbayBeta&CurrentPage=MyeBayNextAllSelling&ssPageName=STRK%3AME%3ALNLK%3AMESX

Got an email from someone on this site who wishes to remain anonymous.

I do sell Betamax players and used tapes on eBay.

Will be happy to answer any and all questions about the Beta hobby.

If you have a soldering iron and a brain in your head you will be able to make a repair.

I will pay top dollar if you wish to sell a unit you cannot repair.

Also, I take trade ins for one of my refurbs. Not in this for the money (as some are), just for fun.

Thank you.

Noel:

If you were referring to the actual cassette insertion mechanism then a new belt usually cures that but I did have once on a M40 a weird fault where the flap wouldn't open up all the way on ejection. Even when comparing the whole mechanism alignment with one from a good one.

Speak soon...............Kev

Noel:

Also you stated about the tape not being pulled evenly. I've found it's down to the centre of the shaft being slightly worn. I've had that on a few 6500's and 5150's too. Changing that part out for a good one always cures that.

As for your loading ring issue. Check inner edge of the loading ring,the bit that touches those guide wheels.I've had two or three where a chunk has been broken off at the top inner part.(I feel someones tried to force things when those belt's give up, in order to retrieve a tape.

Also refresh the worm load screw/gear clutch and regrease the worm gear. Many 5000's and a few 5150's start to fail there now when putting a new belt on adds to those issues.

Let me know how it all goes.

...Kev

Hi Noel:

Funnily enough I had exactly the same thing on a Sanyo m10 about 10 years ago and that's been it.Virtually all the capstan motors on Sanyo's are usually fine but it does indeed look like they can wear (or the upper bearing that stops the shaft allowing the magnet to rub on those coils).Maybe it's not down to wear but poor manufacturing because this one was a bit lop sided too, hence the slight wow the sound.

As for the loading mechanism issue,is it mechanical or electronic?

.........Kev

Kevin,

I am currently repairing a Sanyo VTCM10. New belts and a clean and still no go. I got the tape loaded by hand, even though there is a problem with the load mechanism and the machine has a great picture but warbling audio. I looked at the base of the capstan motor and noticed the changes were in syncronism with its rotation. I took off the capstan metal base holder/guard and pulled out the capstan magnet/shaft. It surprised me that the capstan motor in the Sanyo M10 wears like the problem reel motors of the SLHF950 sony machines. The magnet was slightly lop sided in its surface and was rubbing the legs of two of the hall sensors for about half of its rotation.

I replaced the capstan with one from a spares machine and although I am not happy that the tape is not pulling evenly in the tape path after the audio heads, the speed variation is gone.

Now back to find out what is wrong with the load mechanism.

cheers Noel

Hi

I am currently looking to buy a Sony BVU 950P (PAL and Must be working), if not I will also except a machine with TBC, TCG/R cards and TBC remote.

Very much look forward to hearing from you.

Kindest regards

Chris

email : [email protected]

Hello, I will soon post detailed problems that I have with the Sony Betamax that few have it.

Hi to the genuine PAL Beta vcr enthusiasts.

Message to Simon Lincoln.

Feel free to contact me anytime for any further advice.

....Kev

The wonders that can be thrown up by recovering old Beta tape recordings not only amount to old continuity, but also the fantastic advertisements of yesteryear. Recently been reminded of a particular advert (possibly UK only) for an alcoholic beverage, in which several ancestors of humankind (before most of us completed the journey to adulthood), chanted a little ditty, which went something like: "Troll, troll, troll, troll; troll, troll, troll, troll..."

No, wait, might have got that slightly wrong!

Phil

Oh dear, it still seems a certain poster is so engrossed with his own anger he doesn't realise how hilariously silly he has become! BRILLIANT! Regulars, PLEASE come back now, forget the recent twaddle, and ignore all further rants. The troll is dead, long live ßETA!!!

Phil

As Steve has now rested his case, this board should now return to it's title: "Betamax video chat page"

I look forward to the return of the posters whose knowledge about specific electronic components on various PCB's in different models, should be checked in the first instance when attempting to find faults. Reading those posts is always a source of fascination and inspiration. This coming from someone who has now begun to try simple repairs for himself...

PS Kev, I promise I'll do my best not to make any fault even worse before you get my machines for repair again!

Phil

Simon:

Thanks for the message.

Can you send your e-mail address?

Cheers...............Kve

I rest my case.

Out of interest what part of the world are you posting from?

................

STEVE:

YOU really should learn not to hold grudges.It's so obvious the way you sarcastically refer to others.

Also since when did you become the board spokesperson?

You bring new meaning to the word condasending.

Oh and I don't need you to answer or explain things for me,i'm well aware of what's going on.

Just keep reffering people to YOUTUBE.

...........

Hi there this is a post for Mr Kevin Lambert

Hi Kevin i have a Sanyo vtc 5000 with two issues, 1 i think the belt has perished on the main moter wheel 2, when itdid work i could not get play back from either ariel or AV connectors although strangley when test signal was on the audio was nice and clear, flick switch back and nothing

Just wondering would you be willing to work on my machine and bring it back to life?

Thanks Kevin heres hoping

P.s keep up the outstanding work you do for other enthusiasts as it is very rare now to get people to look at these machines

I am hoping to bring my Sony SLF1UB back to life after some years. Lying in a cupboard. It has served me well since new in 1982. through to the early 1990s

I plugged the cassette recorder in and it lit up the usual lights. There was a cassette in the recorder which I ejected. I then closed the lid manually and proceeded to insert another

cassette to view. However on pressing the eject button the lid refused to open. I was wishing I had not closed in the first place. That is my problem? has anyone any experience of this and should I be looking for a fault inside electrically or mechanically. Your help would be appreciated.

Keep talking to yourself my friend,this board is going to become a lonely place.

Knock yourself out.

Phil

The tantalum caps replacement recommended by someone here does NOT apply to the Sanyo 5150 (the Sony C6 yes).

Also STEVE if you can't call me by my proper name don't mention me at all in future.Pretty childish!

Will only be contacting people who ask for help by e-mail now seeing as this board has been infiltrated by a let's say annoying individual.

Happy videoing guys................Kev

Kevan,

I have never seen an SLC9AS (Australian model) in black but I sent a picture of a machine I once saw advertised on eBay to the site managers and you can see it at http://www.palsite.com/slc9ovi.html

I also saw in an early sales brochure that there was also a gold/bronze coloured model but I have never seen one.

cheers Noel

For KEV and the other 'real' helpers: the trusty Sanyo VTC5150 has recently started displaying tracking problems (on every tape now), which CAN be corrected to a degree with the control knob, but CAN'T fully resolve a fluttery image at, usually, the very top of the picture. Electronic issues, and/or mechanical adjustments too? Thanks in advance.

Phil

Hello, I have the Sony Betamax SL-C20 and there's a slight problem with the playback.

Most of the time it works fine except there are moments when I lose both the picture and sound instantly and just get a black screen with no sound.

I have tried using new rca/phono leads and there is still the same problem.

The tape is still playing, it's not stopping.

I'm guessing it's a loose connection, but I don't want to make naive assumptions.

Does anyone know anything about this problem? Any help would be appreciated!

Thank you.

James

Kevin, were there ever any black C9 's in any format?

I certainly have only seen silver ones, the 4 I own are all silver, and even the 'professional' version, the SLO420, only came in silver.

Be interesting if anyone knows of a black SL-C9, would certainly be interesting.

Noel:

Did the Australian C9 come in black?

..........Kev