Chris:

I would try E-Bay I've seen similar things come up at times.

Ross:

You say NEW pre recorded tapes.

I think you'll find that hard now.Unless you meant blank ones?

..Kev

Hi

I am currently looking to buy a RTI VT3100 tape demag restorer

Many thanks

Chris

Kevin,

You should add those suggestions to the Sanyo technical page at http://www.palsite.com/5000tech.html

cheers Noel

Hi Tim:

You are experiencing a very common issue with the Sanyo VTC 5000 /5150 in that despite renewing the reel drive components the motor lacks torque ,more than likely down to age.

What you will need is an upgrade to the diode (D6) and also fusible resistor (R3049).

D6 needs upgrading to a 3.3v Zener diode type and R3049 needs changing from a 2.2ohm to a 1.0ohm fusible type.

This will cure that issue.

Also refresh the small grooves on the lower part of the reel spools. Running your finger over them before and then on the ones you refresh will demonstrate the effect nicely

A small sharp object (needle) works nicely there and helps that new idler tyre to grip better for longer,but don't make them too big like I witnessed on a M10 once.it was done in such a way it made all functions really noisy and lumpy,as they'd hack sawed the grooves .....shocking! .I kid you not.

Hope this helps...................Kev

Hello, I am looking for new prerecorded tapes to watch. Please let me know if you have any. Thanks.

Hello,

I've fitted the new Reel Drive Pulley to my Sanyo VTC 5000 which has cured the poor rewind and picture search. The one remaining issue is that

the take up spool doesn't rotate when the machine goes from play into into stop mode leaving all tape lose inside by the threading ring. Any tips

would be appreciated... Not always but 4 times out of 5!

Tim

I'll email the images through later.

I'd taken my original 950 into SES to have a new set of video heads fitted and they were unable to complete this to my satisfaction. The picture suffered

grey dropout like flecks and after 5 months of trying they told me i'd get a replacement machine. By this time the 950 was no longer stocked by Sony's domestic

devison and they found my current 950 which had been used by Sony Broadcast at Thatcham for research of some kind. I think the RS422 port had been

fitted by hand rather than in production...

Tim

Tim, send me the RS422 installation images to [email protected] and I will check the account, it is normally full of spam so it is not often checked.

Martin,

That's good progress. I trust everything has settled down and is going OK there now.

Tim,

I suggest you send the pictures to Martin directly so he can consider if they can be added as supplementary information about the SLHF950.

Your machine sounds like a very late model variant. The modification reminds me of the SLO420 variant on the SLC9 although that removed the tuner option.

regards Noel

The good news is that I have managed to port the Betacam, U-Matic and V2000 chat pages over to the PALsite system. Unfortunately though, recent posts have been lost due to a hack attack on the server over Christmas, these might be able to be recovered at some later date but we will have to wait and see.

In the meantime, I have also added a permalink system to all posts. If you hover over any post on the left hand side, a small paragraph symbol will show. This contains a link to the individual post, so if you want to quote an old post, this can be used to jump straight back to that post, e.g. right click on it and select 'copy link location' or whatever your browser uses.

Michael:

Just looked through my postal receipts that would've been around 2008?

.........Kevin

Hi Michael

Yes I still do full overhauls to these classics.

I'm just trying to place you.How long ago would that've been?

If you'd like to send a message to my e-mail address (hold the cursor over my name to reveal) we can take things further.

Regards...................Kevin

I have a Sanyo VTC-M40 and a Sony SL-C20 In need of servicing. Both got the same problem. They won't eject properly and retain some of the tape. Does anyone here do servicing in the UK. I think Kevin might have helped me in the past?

Hello Noel,

I've managed to get a few pictures of the RS422 installation in my 950, where would you like them sending? Need to break the unit down further as i can't see when the cable go as yet...

Regards,

Tim

BMC-500P update:

I've had this in bits and repaired the case as best i can. Managed to locate the 2 broken cassette door lugs and have re-attached this to the camera. Just need

at carrying handle as that is beyond repair.

The PSU arrived this week, it powered up and the cassette compartment opened and i fed it with a spare BTC-30G betacam tape and, miraculously, after probably 27 years of being

laid up and heavy handling by MyHermes, all functions work fine! Can't set the internal clock past 2009 though which is a blow... It could do with a new loading belt as this sometimes sticks

and looks worn, (3-681-424-00).

The recording are better than i expected played back on my 950. Just need to keep my eyes open for a battery!

Can anybody help me with sony sl-f90? After switch on light up only clock and after cca 0.5 second lights up all segments of display. No buttons responds.

See this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEddYtfbNI8

Thank you very much

Tim,

It would be good to get a picture of the SLHF950 control modifications on your machine for Palsite.

cheers Noel

Hi Kevin,

I'm similar. I have Sony SL-C5, SL-F1, Sl-HF100, SL-HF950 and now the BMC-500. All are in full working order, (apart from the audio LED's on the 100 & 950 ). The 950 is unusual in that it has an RS422 port on the back, it was a replacement

machine that Sony UK supplied me with after SES in Leeds botched a repair to my original 950.

I don't have a lot of Sanyo experience but am currently servicing a VTC-5000 which a friend was going to skip! I think i may buy an NTSC machine at some point. I was always envious of the NTSC ED Beta machines so may go

down that route at some point.

Regards,

Tim

Hi Tim:

No problem.

I have Sony SLHF100, SLHF950 (Superbeta) ,C30, C9 and SLF30.

Sanyo I have VTC 5000mk11, VTC6500 ,VTC 5150, VTC ,VTCM10, VTCM20 ,VTCM30, VTC M40 (X2) VTC NX100 and VCR7250 SuperBeta (NTSC) all in mint shape with all accessories and fully refurbished by myself most with their original boxes too.

.......Kevin

ALM?

In the video of the SLT30ME, do you mean the problem with the system control, apart from the fact that the video drum assembly, audio heads and load ring are missing?

From my point of view that is a parts machine now.

regards Noel

can anybody help me in Sony Betamax SL-T30ME

see the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxXJMrK-ybc

Thanks Kevin,

I think this is going to turn into a long running project! I got funny looks taking photographs in Dartmouth in the summer on my 35mm Olympus so can't wait for the looks the Betamovie will get!

As a matter of interest, what other Beta gear do you have...?

Tim

Hi Tim:

No sadly I do not.

I did have to order those batteries from the US though. I believe they are discontinued now. The ones I obtained.

here's some info I gained of the internet some time ago.

You may find this useful.

It's what started me on the path to renew my own.

The batteries I obtained were NI-MH types made by Sanyo.

Powering Sony BetaMovie Camcorders

All Sony BetaMovie Cameras—the BMC 100 /110 , 200 /220, 500/550, 600/660, 1000, and the GCS-1—were designed to use the same rechargeable NP-11 battery pack (Ni-Cd 9.6 volts, 1000 milliamp-hours). However, NP-11 battery packs are no longer available, so providing long lasting portable power for any Sony BetaMovie Camera (BMC) is a considerable problem. Most BMC owners have a Sony AC-M110 Adapter and Battery Charger, and plugging the AC-M110 into an AC outlet can power a BMC, but this is not a portable solution. It is still possible to use the AC-M110 to recharge any still-functional NP-11 battery, but these are few and far between. Furthermore, even a fully charged NP-11 provides only a relatively short duration of power (less than an hour) because the BMC draws a lot of current (average 800 mA, with transients approaching 2000 mA). Currently, no battery producer makes a compatible replacement for the NP-11, so the purpose of this tip is to briefly outline some alternative solutions.

1. Rebuilt NP-11 battery packs: This option requires the old battery, because it must be rebuilt in the same case. Packs rebuilt with either nickel-cadmium (Ni-Cd) or nickel metal hydride (Ni-MH) cells can be recharged with your Sony AC-M110 charger!

2. Battery Bank: This place (www.batterybank.com) will do an NP-11 rebuild for $43, including shipping.

3. Ni-Cd Lady: Grace (at www.nicdlady.com) can rebuild the NP-11 with 2150 mAh Ni-MH cells (more than twice the power of the original Ni-Cd cells) for $42 plus shipping.

Build your own: If you desire, you can buy eight 2150 mAH Ni-MH cells (about $4.25 each) and build it yourself. This saves a small amount of money (mostly shipping, but you have to “crack” the cases open too. You can use a vise to fracture the case along the longer edge, and then work a flat blade screwdriver around the perimeter.

Thanks Kevin,

Its a shame as this unit was in excellent condition. Haven't been able to see if it works as yet as i have a power supply in the post... I'll keep my eye on eBay for another machine.

Have you any experience of the NP-11H batteries offered by Mr Betamax in the states? If the camera works i may be tempted!

Tim

Hi Tim:

Sadly that is all too common.

Sony unwisely made the casing for the BMC500 with a very fragile plastic.

I too won a BMC500 on E-Bay and when it arrived the carrying handle was in about eight pieces, which I did successfully glue back together. It also had the small macro lock knob broken off (seen that on a few Betamovies too)

Having successfully put it together again I found even with a good battery inserted it would not do anything so it still sit's here.

I also have a friend who also had his BMC500 damaged in transit ,including the tape door and I still have all that in pieces too which also does not work.

Strangely though I have three BMC200p 's two Sanyo and one Sony and they all work fine 9although the focus ring is quite stiff on one Sanyo and it won't autofocus because of this , the bodies are far stronger and internals generally more reliable too.

I have also successfully rebuilt a NP11 battery with Sanyo batteries that last a lot longer than those poor originals and won't suffer the 'memory issues' from the older style either.

Sadly the cost is quite expensive to do and you have to tape the casing back together as the newer batteries are a tad too wide to allow gluing it back.But if fits and works very well indeed.

Hope this helps...................Kevin

Hello,

I recently bought a BMC-500p on eBay but MyHermes have managed to damage it in transit. Would anyone out there have either a spare detachable carrying handle and/or cassette door cover or even a dead donor camcorder for sale? This is the second

one of these that has been damaged in the post in the last few years...

Thanks in advance.

Tim

Hi Gerry

If the set up is similar to the C6 then the issue you have is a stretched tape loading ring belt.

I would also NOT advise spraying any lubricant over parts as I've seen this in the past and it also get's where it shouldn't playing havoc with other operating areas (i.e. friction parts.

What you will need is a new belt of the same size and thickness and also a light abrading to the inside of the associated pulley groove.

Hope this helps....................Kev

hi any one know if can use any spray or lubricant on inside of my sony c7 as its been stood for a very long time i just want to clean anything sticking or thats jammed slightly thanks gerry bristol uk

hello my sony c7 all functions work fine except i put tape in it wont wind on unless i give it a little push then it winds on loads as it should (this c7 has not been used for a few years but kept in normal temp house conditions not in attic) i press play fine 2 seconds then tape stops i was told on here it was the the slack tensioner arm problem? can i adjust this arm or is more than adjustment prob with thanks gerry bristol uk

.Yes :)

Sorry for bothering you again, one more question. I've noticed that PSU is getting really hot after 15/20 minutes under load... is it normal? Thanks again.

To Kev:

Thanks man, Merry Xmas to you too ;)

U-Max:

No problem glad you got it sorted in the end.

A nice feeling for sure.

That is a common issue to that model.

Merry Xmas too..................Kev

Hi guys, I just wanna let you know that I've replaced the PS-22 board (with new C319 and C320 caps) on my Sony SL-C30E and the patterning noise has gone away. Thanks to all for your support and help!

Absolutley Noel........ and I too hope everyone here has a fantastic, merry and stress free time.

Also all the very best for 2016 and beyond.

..Kev

Martin,

Your efforts are very much appreciated. All things will happen in time, but I know you have other priorities at the moment.

I hope you have a great Christmas and New Year with family and friends.

(Best wishes also to my fellow chat page contributor's and enthusiasts)

regards Noel

Fret not Martin... I'm sure we all appreciate the time and effort that's been put in over the years to keep the site up over all these years. And can muddle along for the moment.

Martin:

Which can I say is working VERY WELL INDEED :)

I wondered why all those other chat pages were blank. When I looked a while ago they were flourishing, much as this one is now.

Glad too things are now back to normality.

Keep up the great effort.It's working.

.Kev

Sorry about the situation on the other chat boards, it is on my TODO list to port them over to the same system as the Betamax one.

Hello noel when time allows I will take a look and implement your advice great help very many thanks Gerry in the UK

Gerry,

The adjustment at the back is the UHF channel (frequency) setting and had no bearing on the playback of the machine itself. The tracking control does.

The problem with the C5 is most likely faulty capacitors on the servo board. You need to replace the light blue sanyo electrolytic capacitors. The technical page for the C5 should indicate which ones affect which setting. Drum and capstan servos will need to be reset according to instructions.

With the C7 the slack sensor tension arm swings in just before the capstan roller and is located at the centre of the machine toward the back (Under the flip up circuit board above the video head drum assembly.

If that is triggering however most likely you need a belt kit.

regards Noel

I have a Sony c5 that is perfect picture and sound but is constantly shaking

I have adjusted the tracking but it still shakes and broken snow effect seem to be with the shaking I have also adjusted it at the back with small supplied screw driver to get best picture settings also where is the slack tensioner and the reed switch as my Sony c7 when you press the play switch the tape plays for a second then switches to stop hope some one can help with thanks Gerry

Hmm, Shopxero mustn't like the UK then...

It was only A$6.80 to post to Australia.

- SL-HF2000? An American model surely? You would also have to indicate where it is! As the site is for PAL machines most people here are in places like the UK or Australia...

I just discovered a bit of downside with that guy who's selling the roller rejuvinator fluid on shopxero - If you want the stuff sent to the UK he's charging £23.99! - DOUBLE the price in Australian dollars!

The chap on etsy sells the stuff on its own BTW... I'd like to know what it's based on; possibly it's something that could be made up.

Good day, I just want to post information for any one interested in a Super Betamax SL-HF2000 unit in new condition (Mint Condition). I has never been used or taken out of the box.It has all the original accessories.If interested,please email for more [email protected].

Thanks you,

Alberto

Thanks Roderick. Sounds like a great product.

Noel,

Hmm, turns out that the Amazon seller doesn't ship outside the USA.

Found it here: https://www.shopxero.com/au/sr-audio-thpr-2-1-2-oz-sr-audio-audio-video-tape-head-capstan-cleaner-fluid-1-2-oz-sr-audio-audio-video-pinch-roller-cleaner-rejuvenator-fluid.html

Just placed an order, it is shipped from the USA. I'll post here when it arrives.

Didn't really want nor need the head cleaner but I couldn't find anywhere else with just the pinch roller rejuvenator.

I'll bear that tip in mind Noel... Could save a fair bit of time!

Found this...

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/159701289/1-sr-audio-prc-2-studio-grade-tape-deck

My daughter swears by this etsy platform...

Changing tack slightly - and in the hope that (given the appropriate page is down) nobody minds too much if I ask something about a betaCAM machine... The 'fast forward' lamp on my PVW 2800 has started flickering on regardless of what the machine is doing... All transport controls work normally.

The light is quite irritating though... It not 'properly' on but flickering; as if there were a loose connection. - This machine has the 'flappy' lower control panel of course... Does anyone know if there is a particular joint that goes dry or something that needs cleaning with these things... forewarned being forearmed and all that guff...

Thanks Roderick. Sounds like a great product.

Matt,

Yes, the principle is really like a reverse lathe where the bearings let the roller be brought up to a high speed by the diagonal contact of the grinding wheel. The difference is the work tool of the lathe is also providing the driving force. Not much pressure applied of course to give low surface abrasion whilst maximizing speed and hence the amount of surface area of the roller contacted during the process. Even while it is spinning you can judge the effectiveness of the process. I reject rollers that show any signs of cracking on the surface or edges though because they are too far gone to be recovered.

regards Noel

Noel, they used to sell it on Ebay but I can't find it there anymore.

This is the same product on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/SR-Audio-PRC-2-Audio-Conditioner-Rejuvenator/dp/B00JCOW8DC

Ah! - This is done with the roller 'in situ'?

Roderick,

I am willing to try some of that fluid, especially since the "new" but old stock tyres that I am getting supplied by Wagner for the toshiba V31 machines do not grip as they have hardened in storage. Where do you get it?

regards Noel

Matt,

I use the heavy handed technique all the time now. Takes less than a minute.

I have not tried to bend the carrier to take the roller out because the grinding action of the process I describe is simpler and more effective.

It is quite easy to control with an even sweep of the hand - much like spray painting.

If anything more material is taken off the centre of the roller where the capstan wear on the roller is least and the tape deposit exists most.

cheers Noel

Cooper:

Sorry about that, I knew it had an eight in the figure but damn that is pricey for a pinch roller.

A good job the Sanyo ones last particularly well.

..Kev

Thank you all for your suggestions. It does seem that the rollers are available - but very expensive (about £28 + shipping). May try to rejunivate the one I have and as a last resort - buy a new one! Just hope this resolves the tape creasing. I'll let you know how I get on.

I have been using SR-Audio PRC-2 "Studio Grade Audio/Video Tape Deck Pinch Roller Cleaner Conditioner Rejuvenator Fluid" for many years with great results.

Very useful for belts too.

Have you tried clamping the roller in the Dremmel? (or even a battery-drill) - A screw, some washers to clamp it still so it's fitted like a 'bit' and driven by the machine... Some 1200 grade wet and dry used wet with detergent...

Bearings can be re-lubed with watch oil... Once the unit is dried out of course.

It's kind of a 'last resort' technique for sure; but any port and all that. As you suggest, the 'danger' is losing too much off the diameter.

Hi guys,

Some information I supplied in the past. But updated from the suggestion to use detergent replaced by pure alcohol.

General Information on something that has worked for me. Capstan rollers are becoming hard to get for most beta machines and are very expensive. A tip for those wanting to try and restore a capstan roller in a VCR. The rubber rollers become hard on the surface and can even get a build up of tape or other deposits on them. Assuming the top and bottom bearings of the holder have not collapsed or worn too much and that the rubber is not stone hard or has large cracks or holes in it, the surface may be able to be restored. Remove the roller assembly from the machine.

THE SOFT TOUCH METHOD 1/ Rub pure alcohol onto the surface of the roller but try to avoid the sides (ends) of the roller to keep it out of the bearings. 2/ Use a cloth or rag to remove as much rubbish from the rollers surface as you can. The use a dry rag to rub the surface up to a dull finish. refit the assembly to the machine.

THE HEAVY HANDED METHOD (Wear suitable clothing and glasses this could get messy) Get a Dremel super tool or similar with a fine grade stone grinding wheel of approx 8mm to 10mm diameter. Run the tool at half to two thirds speed and while holding the capstan rollers metal mount between your thumb and index finger with the side of the rubber roller (capstan pin side when fitted) most exposed facing up. (I have assumed it is a roller from a late model SONY. Other model holders may have to be held differently) TAKING GREAT CARE NOT TO TOUCH YOUR FINGERS apply the tool gently to the edge of the capstan roller at a 45 degree angle to the surface so that tool imparts spins to the roller up to a very fast speed and move the grinding stone across the surface slowly and evenly to the other edge keeping the pressure and motion constant until you get right to the other edge and then lift. Check that the resulting "wear" to the surface is even and has the right effect of roughening up and cleaning the capstan rollers rubber surface. Repeat the procedure until you are satisfied that the roller surface is even, clean and grips reasonably like fresh rubber. Do not take so much rubber off the roller that it significantly loses its diameter and cannot press onto the capstan when refitted. I HAVE DEVELOPED THESE METHODS OVER TIME AND THEY ARE GIVEN TO YOU WITH ALL CARE AND NO RESPONSIBILITY.

Cheers Noel

Cooper:

I believe Donberg electronics still have them ,but they are around £8.00 I think.

Worth a try.

Let us know how it goes.....................Kev

I have a Sony CL5 which, as far as I know, still works, apart from the usual rewind problem. Would anyone like it? If so, you would need to collect it from East Sussex.

Again thanks for the response. Would seem I need to locate a new pinch roller for my SL-HF100. Would anyone on here know of suppliers in the UK who still have stocks of parts for these VCR's?

Hi Ivan:

Unfortunately this site is mainly for PAL (PALSITE) Beta's as we've had to inform others in the past.

So the chance of anyone here with that manual is quite slim I'm afraid.

If you search on the net under 'vcr owners manuals to download' there are sites out there that cover all formats and countries variations for you to download for a small fee.I know because I've used it a few times.

Good luck in your venture.

..Kevin

hi there want to know if anyone can send me a pdf or jpeg copies of the SL-8600 betamax ntsc VCR manual I puchased one on ebay without manual Thank you my email is [email protected]

It's a Phillips VR2022 basically - Unfortunately the V2000, Betacam and Umatic pages are down at the moment.

Ni Marc;

Is this a Beta machine as I'm not familiar with that make in the Beta format.

If not there are a few other sites for the relevant format that could possibly help you out.

..Kevin

Hi to all

I'm new to this site and was wondering if anyone could shed some light on a fault with my B&o 8802 player, when switched on it go's into rewind for a few seconds and knocks off, i heard that the old lithium battery can cause a lot of problems with these machines and would need to be replaced, if so what the correct battery and where would i get one from.

Regards

marc

Hi Cooper:

Glad all the advice given has pointed you in the right direction.

It sounds to me like the pinch roller either needs a good clean with some cloth and isopropyl alcohol or it needs replacing. One way to test is if you can press a finger nail in the rubber and it still has flex then it's OK.If it feels pretty hard especially at the upper and lower limit's it's had it's day.Usually if they go bad you notice tape creasing in reverse search first.

Also the forward tension rating should be around 70gm the back tension around 32gm.You will need a torque tape to gauge both sadly.

......Kev

Firstly, thank you all for the help you gave regarding reel motor issue on my SL-HF100 - I located some hall sensors and replaced them - now the vcr is working - well nearly!

On playing a tape, it plays but is creasing just before and after the capstan and pinch roller. The capstan is spinning fine. Initially I had to adjust the spool torque as the there wasn't enough to pull the tape back into the cassette case (the pot is near max now) which seemed to improve things. I also tried to clean the pinch roller - but this seems to have a glaze on it. The tapes are still creasing. So could anyone suggest as to what I need to do to fix this? Thanks!

Ok thanks again, fingers crossed!!!

If you're not confident it IS probably better to pass the job on to someone who is...

I suspect though it's a case of a couple of screws to lift the block out. - Be firm but very gentle removing and refitting the connectors; being careful to apply pressure only on the connector itself... Make sure you have marked them so as you know where they go etc (although sometimes they're made in such a way they can only go back one way) - If you were planning on replacing a single board; replacing the block should be no harder and possibly even a bit easier...

You're right. I didn't realize that the boards are connected to each other by soldered wires. Thank you for your advices, however, I'm not sure if I can manage that on my own, I will find someone who can. You know, I would not make it worse.

Ummm... If you can't solder how would you disconnect/reconnect PS23? Not entirely sure why you'd want to since swapping the block looks like a plug-in job??? -Some of the other guys will know better than me on this point...

But if I'd just sprung for a reconditioned part I'd fit it whole rather than risk introducing another fault to it without good reason...

Really - if you're going to mess about with these things at all - Buy a soldering iron, some solder, a desoldering pump and/or braid get some copper wire and scrap boards and learn to solder! - It's not that difficult. I think ?I was about 10 when I learned.

Here's the part I've ordered...

http://www.qservice.tv/vpasp/shopexd.asp?id=11322

As I have no solderning iron nor the necessary knowledge of making electronic repairs, may I swap only the PS-22 PCB from the block?

Ok mates thanks for all. I'll let you know.

Hmmm... If you can find an entire PSU block who's to say the capacitors in it will be much better?

From the sound of it the problem is indeed some form of carrier leak... If it's truly random and seen across more than one tape it has to be local to the machine. As the PSU is a known culprit here well it may well be it still has issues.

The replacement capacitors haven't been fitted particularly tidily. - Occasionally of course this in unavoidable when doing repairs. But in scenario like that - even if I was fitting physically bigger items than the originals - I'd always try to get them in with the leads as short as possible and close to the board.

I tend to favour well-known industrial suppliers like Farnell... You can be reasonably sure there of components that are made to proper tolerances; and I think it worthwhile too with capacitors to go with those of a high temperature rating.

It may well be this slightly-sloppy repair has worked for a while; but if they're cheap components badly fitted it maybe wouldn't take much for them to drift to the point where problems start to re-emerge...

Kevin is right... Certainly check them all, but it might be as well just to replace them all with decent ones while you're at it.

Hi Matt. Thanks for your concern. I'm quite defiantly (at least, I suppose) that tracking/carrier is ok.

a) Unfortunately I haven't had the opportunity to test it on another machine

b) The issue appears randomly, independently from the tape

c) Yes

d) Haven't tried it yet because I need a blank tape. The tapes I've got aren't mine.

By the way, here's another shot of the capacitors seating...

http://postimg.org/image/nj58x0wor/

At this point I'm seriously considering to replace the entire PSU block

Looking at the playback I'd wonder if it was tracking properly - though some segments (around 2:54 leaps out) do definitely look more like carrier leak...

Is there any way of establishing:

a) Whether the tape plays back OK on another machine?

b) Does the fault appear truly randomly; or in a similar place in the tape?

c) Does this machine exhibit the same fault on ALL tapes?

d) Can this machine play back its own recordings cleanly?

Kevin is of course perfectly correct in suggesting that modern replacement capacitors can, at times, be less than reliable! - There are a lot of sellers on Ebay punting components that are very poor quality and fail quite quickly. I'm also unsure if I would be entirely happy with how that capacitor is seated.

I would want to ensure the recording is clean first though - that could be a simple as someone keying the mic on a taxi or CB radio outside while the original off-air recording was being made!

Nick:

The take up reel is the spool on the right.

It has a LED photosensor underneath the spool. The bottom of the spool has a square cut out pattern that passes through this sensor. If yours is dirty with dust it would trigger stop and maybe affect that counter too.

.Kev

What you need is a capacitance and ESR tester to check them out. Sometimes the replacements used are not much cop and they soon fail.

I would also check them all.

..Kev

Hi Kev, thanks for your reply.

I got this unit through ebay and PSU capacitors (22uF 25v) seem to have been replaced already as you can see here...

http://postimg.org/image/qjkkz56ev/

Each one seems of the same factor.

Here's a video sample of the patterning on playback

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-rdlGR85KU

Maybe I need to replace them once again? Couldn't be a video head and/or a circuitry issue instead?

Thanks again

U-Max:

Yes most definetely that will cure it.

Nick:

The picture quality on the 9300 is not that great.I have seen it.What you are getting may be the best it can be.Their later models are far better.It is a nice strongly made vcr but that's about all it's got going for it.

I sorted one that had a ooor no colour issue and the Sony IC was the culprit.I have heard too about that pot tweak.

.Kev

Thank you Fivos for your advice re my Sanyo vtc5000. The counter is not moving but I am unsure where the take up reel is - could you give me an idea of where I should be looking?

I have also recently aquired a Sanyo Betacord VCT 9300 - we had a problem with the picture loosing colour during playback. We tweaked the AFC(VR - 214) as advised on the site (thank you!) which sorted the colour problem but the picture is still not of a great quality and has a shadow on it....is there anything else I should be tweaking to get a clearer picture?

..any help would be appreciated :)

Hi Kev, thanks for getting back to me. Here's a screenshot of the patterning

http://postimg.org/image/nphagzdxt/

Are we talking about the same thing?

Hi

You mention patterning have you checked c319 (22uF) in PSU ?

This is very common for gong high ESR on this model and causing patterning on screen.

Just a thought..................Kev

Hi all, I've got a Sony SL-C30E machine which has the intermittent squiggly patterning problem (e.g. moving waves)... I know that I should check the DL001 Delay Line on the YC-25 board but... how can I access to the board? And what kind of checks and regulations can be made? Thanks in advance.

Gabriel,

If you want to email me through my website betaheaven.com, I could send you a scan of my not so neat circuit diagram and pictures of the control box.

Another two boxes I built up are for testing the DC/DC and Sony drum motors in general.

1/ The DC/DC tester has an edge connector which accepts the DC/DC soldered pins. A 12V supply DC supply (500mA current limited) provides power to the DC/DC and small meter shows the current supplied.

Another edge meter is calibrated to display centre position when monitoring the high and low DC output voltages as selected by a switch.

The box has a BNC output so that the 3.3V AC line can be monitored with an oscilloscope to determine level and frequency plus waveform shape as "indicators" of correct operation.

A faulty DC/DC draws maximum current or nothing as determined by short circuit or open circuit failure of the drive transistor.

After replacing the usually faulty drive transistor, 2x10uF caps and the supply input cap 220uF, the operation should be fine, but high current is an indication of shorted turns in a transformer that has overheated.

2/ The drum motor uses a scrap SONY machine video head drum with things mechanically reversed so the magnet is placed on the inside and the circuit board on the outside.

The control line is monitored with a LED. Power is supplied from an external 9V source to the motor Vcc and negative rail.

There is a press button switch used to feed a control voltage of 4.5V obtained from centre tapped resistors powered from the 9V supply which you can then use to test the motor starts up and runs.

Strangely enough if you spin the motor without pressing the switch the LED will usually flash at the spin rate.

Using this assembly you can check the board after replacing the hall effect sensor saving you a lot of effort in putting the machine back together first and finding out its not fixed.

That said 90% of the time replacing the hall effect sensor fixes the problem.

regards Noel

Thanks Martin

Just a small pull and a tug and I got the cover off. :-)

Peter, I seem to remember on the SL-F1 that there are two black screws at the rear of the unit that need to be undone. Also you will need to first remove the cassette cover, two screws on the top.

Hi

I have a Sony SL-F1UB Beta machine which I need to clean the heads on.

I am not sure how to get the cover off as the screws are not marked with an arrow.

Would appreciate any help.

Thanks

Peter

Noel,

Yes, you are right on your statement that grease might harden or difficult the carriage movement. When I have performed that operation (it is not always neccesary, depending on previous operation conditions and further storage of the machine), I remove the original grease and gently apply a reasonable small quantity of new one.

By the way, quite interesting your home-made jig for testing C9s load mechanisms. It is amazing the complexity of that machine and any test tool is always welcome.

Kind regards,

Gabriel

Matt,

The belts on the SLC35AS are usually yellow in colour but I had a tighter orange coloured one which might have been due to age.

I one of the Sony multi-system models the belt was green and I noticed that it had stretched quite a but.

Gabriel I think it was talked of "greasing" the load mechanism. That is OK but can be overdone as well.

The grease gets into the gaps either side of the load tray and when it gets hard can make the machine sluggish.

regards Noel

Matt

You could be right as the ones that are tighter seem to be a slightly darker colour.

Also they are toothed for grip to their respective pulleys. They are also said to be longer lasting than the standard black rubber types. Which is probably true.

...Kev

Your interface tool sounds like a very useful thing indeed Noel! You should write the project up somewhere.

As to the orange belts Kev - I do wonder if it IS possble they're contracting as some chemical - possibly a plasticiser - degrades? There is something nagging in the back of my head that I've seen something similar elsewhere. - Is this a sychronous belt (i.e. like a car's cambelt) or toothed just for grip?

Noel:

Thanks for that.

the reason I stated this is it's the ones I get to work on. Some are fine but one or two, are pretty darn tight.

One so much so it made the whole ejecting painfully slow.

I had a feeling it couldn't be the belt was made too small. So with that info that's probably why.

Much appreciated....................Kve

Kevin,

The belt tightness on an SLC35 ( 30 ) is also affected by the mounting position of the plastic lever mount component on the solenoid. I always try to keep the inside edge aligned with the solenoid top. There is also mechanical variation introduced by exactly where the load mechanism is sitting when you tighten the screws. Again I try for the centre of the adjustment range. I don't expect that these belts get tighter over time. I have noticed some well stretched ones though.

cheers Noel

Matt,

I might have another crack at fixing one of the SLO-420Ps again but I have a pile of SLC9s to repair anyway.

I got sick of the time it took to resolve the SLC9 load mechanism failures so I made up a bit of kit you may be interested in.

The control mechanism in the SLC9 has a dedicated IC monitoring and operating the load mechanism.

Because of the SLC9s load gear failure issue and the fact that a jammed load mechanism sometimes leads to the control board power transistors failing (open or short circuit) and in worst case as a resistance burning a hole in the board, I built up a control interface to test machines using switches, C-MOS sensing and led indicators.

It is placed in line with the two leads connecting the board at the rear of the heads and the load mechanism and has its own 12V DC supply

It has two modes Monitor and Slave.

In Monitor mode it just monitors the actions of the machine by showing the states of the switches

Cassette in/out

Cassette up

Cassette down

And whether the machine is powering the load motor to go up or down.

In Slave mode it takes over control of the load mechanism and can load/unload a cassette independently via a non-locking centre off toggle switch so you can check the mechanical actions.

Makes life a little easier in terms of diagnosing problems for sure.

cheers Noel

Gabriel:

Absolutley,anything we can do to prolong the life of these machines without resorting to endless searching for new/used spares is a bonus in my book.

.....Kevin

Kevin,

I agree. As a rule of thumb I always try to slacken -only a bit- that toothed belt, specially when the eject movement still goes slightly slow (after re-greasing the carriage mechanism and oil-dropping the planetary gear). That tensioner mechanism is really helpful and allows compensating belt aging.

Regards,

Gabriel

Noel:

Going back to your Sony C35AS and the too high a friction to the loading gear motor.

I have found on some similar models that orange toothed belt is far too tight.

Yes you can slacken it a bit with the tension arm but some are tight even at it's slackest setting.

I always make sure they aren't too tight and you can gauge this well by how swiftly it unloads and ejects the cassette.

.............Kev