I live in ct., and have a first and a second generation Betamax from sears. I believe both were made by sanyo. anyone in the area that may be interested in purchasing at a reasonable price. both were working when I retired them. extremely heavy to ship. I would prefer pickup if anyone is interested. these were extremely expensive in the 70's when I attained them.

Thanks again to both of you.I have checked the connectors for dry joints and replaced the transistor(Q613)and diode (I have some spares), unfortunately it hasn't changed anything ! I am beginning to understand some parts of the diagram and now understand why you asked me to change these components :-) yet it did not work. As I wrote under the video this problem started when I was checking SS11 board.(Because of little problems of tape transport -sometimes damaging tapes- that I will discuss later when this problem will be solved !). Actually if I remember well it first occurred after I replaced the little wire which is connecting pin 5 of connector CN601 to the ground close to one of the 4 mounting screws. I checked this soldering hundred of times and do not see anything wrong. Something I notice : Why is pin 7 of CN622 connected to the ground ?(I am noticing this because it is not very far from CN601 and the little wire, if you look at the circuit.). If I understand the diagram pin 7 of CN622 should sometimes alternate from the ground to 5 volts (according to tape transport mode I suppose)which looks impossible to me as it is connected to the ground... From the start I suspect I made some short circuit somewhere but I really do not find anything... ! Regards.

Thanks aga

Kevin, I have responded to your question in the Betacam forum.

I have a sony BVW 75P and its working fine but the hours meter isn't displaying (due to age of back up battery I think)

Can anyone tell me if its possible to replace the battery supplying the hours meter and if so where it is located.

I have the sony service manual but its very skimpy on this and simply says replace meter/battery so

do you have to replace the whole meter unit or is there a battery on one of the boards?

Any help would be very appreciated

regards

Kevin

Frandid:

One other thing.

On the boards of the Sony's where the plugs connect to the boards near the centre. Look for dry joints around those. Especially the ones that pivot. I've seen this a few times too, when the boards are tilted up it put' a strain on those plugs as they are still connected up. Ultimately causing the solder to give especially if it wasn't that well done at the factory.

...Kev

Frandid,

Adding more info:

The transistor is a 2SD1164 and the lead arrangement is as follows: Base - Collector - Emitter (seen from the front side). There are some of them on eBay, for example.

As for the diode, I guess you could substitute it with the popular 1N4148, unless you find an exact replacement.

Regards Gabriel

Frandid,

Well done, I think you have correctly tracked the issue. As Kevin states, check for a leaky transistor or diode (you should desolder that whole transistor and only a lead of the diode). Don't rely so much on the multimeter's transistor Hfe test. Instead, check everything with the diode test function.

I think you have a good chance to repair your beta.

Keep us informed :-)

Frandid:

Transistors regularly fail on the Sony's You may need to test the one you mentioned to see if it's leaking a bit.

Steve:

It sound like the caps in the PSU are high ESR.I would check them all.This could be the source of your picture issues.

Neil:

The caps in the PSU of the 950 can go high ESR too, eventually wiping out transistors and a fusible resistor. I have spares for those as I've seen it a few times. You've had that from new so it's a good chance they have.That with dirty heads. I also wouldn't recommend ANY tape head cleaners. They RUIN vcr's.Have you used this one much in yours?

Let us know how you all get on.

Here's wishing you all some positive good luck with them.

......Kev

Thanks again K lambert and Gabriel for caring about a "renegade SECAM" SL-C9 "F" model :-)I tested the solenoids with a 9v battery : Working (And strongly !). I measured voltage on the 3 wires : Orange : 12 volts if other cord of the multimeter is connected to the ground. If other cord is connected either to the brown or red cord : 0 volt. Hitting Play doesn't change anything. I measured pin 9 of IC612 (SS11 board) as you asked me Gabriel, voltage is 4,85 volts. When I hit the Play button voltage goes down to about 1,4 volt for a very few milliseconds then immediately comes back to 4,85 volts. Q613 and D606 are well soldered and look OK. What else ?!! Best regards to both of you.

Thanks Kev,

Afte rposting that I did a little research that pretty much confirms what you are saying.......I hope the heads aren't gone. The streaking is weird it looks like patterned vertical wavy lines.

On another note I have a vtc 5000 I tried to turn on the other day, it lit up ok then I heard a crackle towards the back of the machine and smoke poured out and it went off......It smelt like a burnt out cap. Between the 2 I might be able to make a working vcr!

1 more nugget of info, the tracking dial makes little difference, turn it all the way to the right, picture disappears completely

??

Not sure how to use my Sky feed with the 950? ?

Hi Kev.

Thanks for the post.I brought it from new 85/86?. Been stored for many years. I have a tape cleaner tape, Ill try this, Im bouncing back & forward between two addresses so I wont be able to try this for a week or so.

The sound is fine & unaffected, its just I have a load of tapes with recordings I made off the TUBE, dont know if you remember it, was a music prog off channel 4.

Thanks again for the thoughts, Ill get back to you in a week or so.

Cheers, Neil.

Hi Neil:

When you say all and everything do you mean E-E as well.(using a digibox in the rear sockets) or just playback?

Has this just started to do this or did you obtain it like it?

It could well be dirty heads,if it was static build up it would be many numerous flashes horizontally across the screen.

Dropout's are similar but more random in nature.

Also is the Hi-Fi sound affected by this?

.........Kev

Hi.

I have a SLHF-950 in perfect working order, but, on loading & playing tapes I get a screen full of snow, (Dropout?), it's not the tapes, as it is ALL & EVERYTHING, it's either the heads are very worn, dirty, or maybe a shed load of static build up.

Any thoughts would be welcome.

Cheers, Neil.

Venca:

If you look to the top left of this page you will see V2000 chat page,that's where you need to post your query.

Good luck.............

Gabriel:

You've done more research in that are than I've had too.Great info.

........Kev

Frandid,

In agreement with Kevin and would like to add:

Is there a chance that the second solenoid would also be faulty? You can easily check (and compare) their continuity with a multimeter. Think about that every solenoid has two coils inside: one is for closing and the second for releasing (it performs a "forced demag"). The wire arrangement is:

Orange wire: common (+12V)

Red wire: close (GND) --> Inner coil 1

Brown wire: release (GND) --> Inner coil 2

You can use a 12V DC power supply to feed them. Needless to say that you should only activate one coil at once.

If the solenoid seems to manually work, try as follows:

*Location Board SS11*

Check at pin 9 of IC612. You should check a digital state change when hitting "Play" (from Hi to Lo). If this change is found, check for components (or dry joints on):

-Q613

-D606

If the digital change is not found, I go along with Kevin's statement: the system is missing a signal (end switch?) or something similar.

Tell us your founds on that fantastic machine :-)

Regards,

Gabriel

Grundig Video 2000 2x4 model 880. What size belt has CAPSTAN engine. I just tattered pieces. How to replace the belt ? They must also dismantle the Drum engine?

Steve:

It sounds like the very common issue of needing new belt's a good clean, lube and set up and then testing.

If the image has black streaks to the side of white objects it could be worn heads.It could also be the head amplifier has issue too.

The no loading is common.It needs new belt's and the pulley grooves re abrading for a better grip.The idler tyres also benefit this way as I've yet to have had to replace any down to cracking.They are usually still good rubber wise just a bit shiny/slippy.

Frandid:

Look around the soldered areas for dry joints.

Also could be something to do with the loading ring switches not giving the correct signals.Hence the vcr not realising the tape is fully laced to activate the solenoid on pressing play.

I do remember seeing one once where part of the mechanism stopped the solenoid from moving outwards.

Check for that too.

.........Kev

Thank you K Lambert and Gabriel. I have an identical replacement solenoid and tried this experiment : I unplugged the solenoid from the little RL6 board and plugged the new solenoid instead. When I push play it doesn't have any reaction, the cylinder that goes inside is not attracted as I suppose it should be. What do you suggest ?

Hi Guys,

Recently acquired a Sanyo VTC5300, unfortunately when a tape is inserted the motor whirs but nothing happens. So I took it apart and found if I manually pushed the lacing ring it would catch and lace the tape. From there I could play ff/rw etc. except the video when playing shows bad streaking and audio plays all messed up. When it comes to eject I have to usually manually move the ring again to return the tape. I imagine its something to do with the motor as sounds if its struggling to play at the correct speed, audio also sounds ok at the begining of a tape as I expect this due to the gearing effect the empty reel has. Any ideas guys?

looking for any 80's tv recordings with adverts and testcards ceefax etc

i can be contacted via email [email protected]

regards Simon

Always a pleasure being able to offer help on these machines!

Regards Betaphiles,

Gabriel:

Thanks for that I couldn't remember what component it was :)

Ross:

Let us know what you find.

...........Kev

Hi Kev

Unfortunately, this is all a bit technical for me!

I can say however, the tape does go in normal. And not 1 sided. Will take a torch and have a nice look inside the machine to see if I can see any cracks etc

Thanks

Frandid,

First thing you can check is an inner fuse inside the solenoid. It is neccesary to cut slightly the blue cover and find a white fuse. Sometimes it opens. If so, try to an equivalent fuse (thermal type I guess).

Frandid.

I believe there is a resistor or diode (not sure ) with the solenoid that may have gone bad. Hence your current issue.

I have seen this on a Sony C20. It was a while ago so sorry for my uncertain diagnosis.

................Kevin

Hello. My french betamax is looking for some help. Thanks very much for going to this page : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgqobvHbcyQ

Nicholas.

Most are opposed to any type of cleaning tape here as they DO cause more wear and in some extreme cases the material of the wet type wraps itself around the capstan motor.

I had to sort a guys out who's 'cleaning tape' did just that damaging any tape he tried to play in it. Also some of the nylon fibres wrapping themselves around and inside the head disc slot.

Good luck with your search for them but I personally cannot and will not recommend their usage.

....Kevin

wanted cleaning tapes

Ross.

Also have you checked the black loading belt,or the pulley centre for cracks?

...............Kev

Ross

Mine got worse until the silver door would not go down and I found out the inner plastic arm at the top broken off. Luckily I had a spares c9 to replace this with. The c9 is a great machine but has so many falabilities. Usually around plastic parts.

Does the tape slot in level or does it seem to go in one the side. If so maybe the metal brackets with a black rubber band over the end may be out of kilter. They need to be at a perfect 90 degrees. So when you push the tape in the slot lightly, just before you have to push it to engage the switch, it doesn't have any resistance left side or right.

All these things may seem trivial, but it would seem important for the life of this mechanism.

.....Kev

Hi Kev

What happens if I just leave this?

Will it just continue doing what it's doing? Or will it get worse and either break my machine, or maybe just not eject the tape at all?

Thanks

Ross:

Check each side of the cassette lifting mechanism. In particular the pale yellow plastic arms .They have a tendency to crack where the pin slots at the top. Especially the inner one. Mine did that a month or two ago, and started off doing what yours is now.

The silver door then wouldn't slide up either.

Some have a tiny screw and small washer fitted. This seems to help prevent this.

...Kev

SL-C9: Not sure why but, now have a problem ejecting tapes. Once I finish watching a tape, stop and rewind but when I eject, it gets stopped half way up. I have to put my finger in to lift the tape the rest of the way, before it finally ejects. Why is it doing this? Can it be fixed? Thanks!

Oh thankyou again would that make there be no picture,it has definitely had erasing head replaced poorly has its slightly melted by the soldering iron,so im going to try source some heads in worse case senario,what would a reasonable price to pay for a defunct machine if one could be found eBay seems ridiculous, thanks again i answered email before I saw this site's response thankyou again kev for your time and assistance throughout best regards nick

Nick:

I don't know of anywhere that has new HF950 heads. You may have to source some from a spares one.

As for the normal sound being low. They are set up like that so the difference between that and the Hi-Fi is even more dramatic. You can check alignment and also slightly increase the output.

Let's hope it's not the heads.

From what you are describing it sounds more like a electronic set up fault (mono audio).

....Kev

Hi kev if you let me know what the price for new heads also if these can still be bought please so I have an approximate idea how much I need to save lol thankyou.:)regards Nick

Thankyou once again I think it's more likely that its electronic as well as picture heads possible worn damaged,as the sound is shallow in volume turning tele up helps but not quite the right pitch possible speed related,all motors appear running and clean no wear in bearings of reel torque motor,but still would like to get another tape to rule out magnetic damaged tape,the sound remains constant no matter of switches switched,and soon as stop is pressed hifi green light returns obviously this being early none hifi.but the black screen with tear markings no picture or even close switched to super makes more tear marks accross centre of screen sound constant as stated above,many thanks regards nick

Whats a Sony POWER HAD EX? MY SON LEFT THESE BEHIND AND ME AND MY HUSBAND DECIDED TO SELL THEM I HAVE 4 WHAT'S A FAIR PRICE?

Nick

If their is a Hi-Fi track on the tape you play that green BETA HI-FI light will illuminate. BUT if the heads are shot you will hear no sound until you set the Beta Hi-Fi switch to normal (from Auto) and it will play back the mono standard edgetrack sound.

Sanyo had a different approach. With their Beta Hi-Fi models the BETA HI-FI light would illuminate ONLY when the Hi-Fi heads were tracked in and good. If they were worn or not tracked in then the mono edgetrack sound would automatically play. No need for switching it over.

Another test you can make with the hi-Fi models when working OK.

Is record something on the tape,then play it back.

Move the tracking to the left and too the right and see when the Hi-Fi light goes out (Sanyo) or the sound goes off (Sony).If those heads are in great shape you should be able to get the tracking all the way both sides without the sound dropping off or being affected.

As those heads wear down the tracking range will get shallower until you will just about be able to pick the Hi-Fi sound up, set at it's centre, and you will either get noise that you can't clear, or the sound will come and go when they are really worn.

Hope this helps............Kev

Really intend to use mine,more character in these old mechanical marvels,I do think I have a very poor quality film to try.so looking out for a better quality super beta original film.as the hifi light is on umtil play is pressed Oh and my stop button led is out haha

Ah yes, I tend to forget so many don't utilise PC's or lap tops anymore.

All mobile phones............

A good job we are'nt all like this otherwise the older technology wouldn't stand half the chance :)

....................Kev

Thankyou kev much appreciated don't think hover over name works on mobile so I'll crack the lap top on

Hi Nick

If you want to send it my way feel free.

If you hover over my name my e-mail address is there.

We can discuss this further.

Cheers.................Kev

Just a little thing here,so reel torque I think is ok,ive had the chassis in peices and there seems to be there micro thin plastic washer in there i cleaned and lightly oiled bearings,the plastic static sheild is also fitted.im thinking not only the heads to be at fault but possibly an electronic issue,but quite possibly not to rule out also deterioration on the cassette.im really sorry for all the messages many thanks for all your help and patience with newbie here trying to diagnose problems without a clue.not sure if you or anyone here wishes to have a look at this machine obviously im not expecting this free gratis,and here I can see your knowledge of this particular and im sure all betamax machines is second to none best regards novice nick

Hi again guy's me again,so checked Hall sensor least I think I have is it the one under the head motor you have to realease the nut on the bottom of the head motor to get to it,also line tearing seems the better dyognosis black screen with slightly right shifted lines flash on but the sound speed isn't quite right either very low in volume and tone different,its begining to look like a possible one for the experts if im truthful.just noticed switching to super beta creates more lines on the screen,cant see any obvious split or leaky caps or burned risistors maybe some dodgy looking soldering,also a sensor with a number on top 6703 has signs of being soldered in or resoldered its located rear of the head dont think but couldnt be sure that the motor bearing or coils are in need of attention,

Think the play speed is a little slow also as Arnold as a low voice lol

Thankyou kev messing as we speak lol,the sound does sound muffled lower in tone and volume and no picture at all black screen 98percent of the time then just white flickers across the centre horizontally no discernable picture at all,many thanks for your time and patience

Nick

It's difficult to diagnose things sometimes, like this.

You may well have a electronic issue.

As for the sound have you got it set to AUTO.

If you hav'nt set it to AUTO and then see if any Hi-Fi comes through. You'll have to make sue you have a Beta hi-Fi recording though. If the tape you play only has mono edgetrack sound it will automatically play the mono standard Beta sound.

If it doesn't chances are those heads could be knackered. If it does then you may well have issues on the video processing board or damaged video but not audio heads.

With these Hi-Fi models and with PAL they have two sets of heads two for the video(sometimes three for a clear still frame) and two for the Hi-Fi.

They will wear down at the same rate (no, one set doesn't retract like someone first thought).As the Hi-Fi penetrates deeper into the tape ,with the video being skimmed over the top at a slightly different angle then the Hi-Fi audio will drop out well before the video picture shows bad signs of wear.

I have seen a bad set on a 950 and what happened was ,no Hi-Fi (playback or recording) and the video picture had a huge mess or colour and distortion to the centre of the picture, especially near white or bright objects. You could see a playback picture of sorts though.

Have you looked at the faults page for the 950 on this site? There's quite a few issues that could be similar to yours.

Also if you clean then be really, really careful they can be damaged so easily.

..............Kev

But I do think the heads are finished any idea where and how much these would be,if you have any.i would be interested in buying from you.the fact that there is no picture apart from regular pulsating white flash of a screen then black.when flashed white is also with horizontal broken lines just in the centre of the screen sound remains constant

Im sure it's going to be a easy fix will try and clean all rollers and sensors of any contaminants and get back to you,thanks again

There doesn't feel any up and down movement in the top half of the heads,if that's where the spacer needs to be shimed up

Asuming that the original hercules in new York isnt corrupted in anyway of course

Hi again guys to try and pic your brain's here plays video. With sound little shallow in volume but otherwise not distorted in anyway picture however is.its black then intermittently flashes with broken horizontal line's so im asuming heads are mucky or completely worn out.fast forwards and rewinds loads unloads tape counter and audio display all seem to work fine any help in this matter much appreciated regards Nick

Nick

By all means, we love the format and I love the machines too.I always was a huge supporter of the format back then,Even in the video mags.

Post away if you get stuck...................Kev

Hi my friends it looks as thou you have been very busy over the years,fixing these wonderful and now historic machines,and looking at what I can see here,it looks as thou the only little thing about betamax video players.is what you don't know,so I'm sure if my player doesn't work I'm at the right place here for it to be fixed. Regards Nick

Gabriel:

Was it a top loading machine in silver with a smooth front and the only controls were for the tape functions.

There was one offered on E-Bay a few years ago and I remember the seller stating it was offered to the rental shops just before the release of their best selling VTC 5000 (15% market share in 1982/3).It was to promote this new lighter style of machine and indeed the Beta format.

I did bid on it but was outbid.

An interesting machine for sure as this too had no tuner.

.......Kev

To all those Sanyo Betacord enthusiast,

I didn't know the existence of a model called VTC-1500. Interestingly, it lacks the tuner controls and Line In so it is a playback only machine. I think it might be the direct rival for the Sony Betamax SL-P20CH, (an SL-C20 without tuner).

This Sanyo machine recalls me the VTC-NX10 / NX100 model, much more common to see.

Regards,

Gabriel

Thankyou very much for your speedy and very helpful response I have looked inside,and can see what I presume is a after market repair where as there is a diode on the bottom of underneath circuit board.still waiting on tape to try has scart socket which is a bonus.fingers crossed at most hoping to get away with just heads need cleaning.but a little concerned that the green meter led seem to be going up and down without any form of signal,only plugged in by scart if I turn display off they redpond to this,the man says he's bringing me the remote and instructions when found,also I have noticed what maybe water or damp damage to inner metal chassis and slightly swollen very edge of bottom circuit board,but looks as thou all tracking on board remains intact,would like to see this up and running as I loved my betamax in the early 90s.many many thanks will keep you up to date regards Nick chesterfield derbyshire

Hi NIck:

What you have their my friend is pretty special. One of the best Sony ever made for the UK.

One area that will need sorting soon though are the caps in the PSU area. I've seen a few with damaged transistors,fusible resistor down to many caps going high ESR.

As a matter of fact I've just finished sorting out one myself. It had a bad capstan/head drum IC and a leaky diode (preventing any picture or the tape counter to operate.)

Luckily for me too the audio level LED's were all fine (a few have failed segments).

The Hi-Fi and picture heads are also fine as well.

Another are that will need checking on these is the height of the reel motor magnet. So many have worn bearings making this magnet rub on the coils.

You can shim this with a tiny washer to raise the height. Also remove any glue on the head motor hall effect sensor BEFORE it fails .Some don't have glue or already has had it removed.

The rail at the back of the skating mechanism can break. I have one here like this from a n E-Bay purchase that was never mentioned. I am going to rig up a metal bracket for that part. I can see that becoming common in the future as that plastic ages.

There you go,quite a list but if you need any help give us a shout.

Good luck....................Kev

Hi newbie here i had betamax video as a teenager in the early 90s.so just had a sl hf950 givern to me but without remote,still waiting on eBay purchase to see if tapes play,seems that all skate operates and tuner if channel's available would work,just wondering if this is a decent machine if working and one that is of any other uses other than playback only any help in this matter appreciated im located derbyshire UK regards and many thanks in anticipation of anyones response Nick

Gabriel:

I appreciate that and will take you into account next time.

As for bad condition Sanyo's .I've seen a few usually VTC 5000 models .A couple were completely rusted inside all over ,full of cobwebs too.

Another one was covered in a brown dirt ,but surprisingly when I cleaned it all up and refurbished it out it looked MINT.

It all depends on who owned them and whether or not they have been stored in loft's or outside in cold sheds and then discovered by another, only to get on E-Bay.

The sheer amount of them on E-Bay described as 'working order' but no mention of a service or overhaul, is one hell of a risk. Especially the high prices some are asking.

Still it's nice to get them working great again and I too like them cosmetically as perfect as possible.

Cheers again....................Kev

Kevin,

If you need a specific component, just let me know. I have some Sony beta scrap boards just in case.

And yes, it is also the first time I come across this issue on a Sanyo machine. But this time I think I've been lucky. On the other hand, the VCR is in really bad condition, full of scratches, front flap missing and the like. It's not really a drama because this machine will be for a relative, but I prefer repairing a mint one.

Regards,

Gabriel

Hi Gabriel.

To be honest I hav'nt had to change many diodes.As it's an later upgrade to this vcr finding info on it was difficult.

I managed to see one with a exact colour and rating on one of my Sanyo syscon boards so got the number from that.

You are correct though as another enthusiast has just told me the same about the equivalent being 1N4148 and is sending me some:)

Interesting too about your Sanyo head motor caps.I've never come across that on the hundreds I've worked on either.

At least we've both had a great result.

......Kev

Kevin,

I don't quite understand what you really need. Maybe the schematics containing the modification or the diode itself? I've been having a look and that diode seems to be equivalent to the ubiquitous 1N4148.

By the way, I succesfully fixed the issue on the VTC5000. I just replaced the four 1uF/50V capacitors inside the head motor and now it works fine, no image shakings. It's a little bit tricky because the space is quite reduced and you need to solder everything in a small area. Otherwise the rotating magnet will rub the leads once assembled.

Kind regards,

Gabriel

Hi Guys

Hopefully someone can help me :)

I've found this fault on a Sony SLHF950 vcr and thanks to someone posting this issue and solution has led me to the culprit.

For no playback picture with the tape counter stuck, check for CTL (control track) pulses at Pin 15 of IC302 on the SS50 (Servo) board. If these are missing, check under the SS50 board for a modification diode added between D311 Cathode and Q305 Collector (REG 5V) which may have gone leaky.

The diode in question I believe is a DS442 type.

The problem being I cannot seem to find anywhere that has these.

Anyone out there know of anywhere that does/

Cheers in advance.................Kevin

Kevin,

Yes, these adjustment trimmers are really sensitive (I normally mark their original position).

A bad servo IC might be a possibility, I can also check that.

I'll post news as long as I discover more things on this classic VCR.

Thanks a lot,

Gabriel

Hello,

I restore betas for fun and I' stomp on one issue. I have been searching online and seem

I can't find the reason why capstans on a Sony sl-s600 stop working and if is posslbe

to restore them?

I came across a few sl-s600 vcrs thinking the capstan's capacitor need changing. I changed it

with a new 47uf smd, the traces seems intact, did not help. I installed the capstan in my other working sl-s600 thinking

maybe it is the vcr,same symptom; did not work.

please any ideas

thanks,

ed

Gabriel:

You do know the settings of those trimmers for the capstan and head forward motion is pretty critical,sensitive especially the head speed one.It could be a bad servo IC.

...Kev

Dear Kevin, thanks a lot,

I have also changed the heads (as a cautionary action) with no results. Image is slightly better on color/sharpness but it is still shaking. Needless to say that I have cleaned the heads twice or three times (the old and the "new" ones).

These "new" heads give a better reading on my head meter so I would not blame them. They come from a scrap machine.

What I am thinking about is the head motor itself. Maybe it is not able to keep an accurate speed and so the image shakes. An approximation would be connecting the CRO to the "SERVO" terminal on this motor so as to see the signal and compare with the statement on the service manual.

I feel more confident servicing Sonys. Think I have much to learn about Sanyo machines.

Kind regards,

Hi Gabriel:

Sounds like it 'could' be dirty heads but without any image hard to say.

If you can get a small video of this fault to me then maybe I can help further.

...Kevin

Dear betaphiles,

I have an issue with a VTC-5000 machine: image is not stable, rapidly flckering up and down.

What I have performed on this machine:

-Changed all electrolytics on PSU

-Changed all electrolytics on servo board

-Cleaned the whole tape path

-Pinch roller swapped with a well known one

-Tried to adjust "Mh FWD" and "Mc FWD" trimmers with no improvement

Any clue is always welcome.

Thanks in advance,

Gabriel

Tim:

As far as I'm aware (and I could be wrong) there weren't any PAL ED Beta vcr's, that I've ever seen or heard of. I do know NTSC ones were made.

I remember a magazine article in the UK were informing Betaphiles about the ED beta models and stating a UK release will no doubt be on the cards. They got that wrong.

It was to counteract JVC's SVHS..

Very happy for you about the VTC 5000. It should not give any further issues there for quite some time now.

........Kev

Hello All,

Thanks to Kevin's help the Sanyo VTC 5000 tape chewing problem has been fixed after the R49 & D6 mod.

I read this on the Tape section of the Pal Site: 'PAL ED-BETA machines are now only to be found in the middle eastern markets in countries such as Saudi Arabia and Israel'.

Is this true? Were there ever any PAL format ED Beta machines released anywhere in the world? I've never seen of photograph or review of such a machine...

Tim

Hi Karl:

If you look to the left of this page you will see a Betacam link.

I feel your needs will be better served on there as they specialise in that format.

Good luck

.....Kevin

Hi,

Just purchased two Betacam SP format cameras

1 Sony DXC 537 with a PVV1 backend

2 Sony UVW 100

Can you advise me of where to find Batteries, rain covers and viewfinders.

Thanks :)

Hi Noel,

many thanks for you advices and offer stk. i found stk on ebay, now i wait to delivery. i will see at cracks on board on weekend

best wishes

Hi JPKELZ, I have emailed you about the V2000 players. Thank You.

JP Kaz.

I would be interested in collecting if you live near Sheffield England

Thanks Tom.

Jiri,

I have some of those power supply regulators here in Australia if you have trouble sourcing them there.

Another source of issues I have found is breaks in the base board from being dropped during transit.

The rubber support in the base actually presses into the base board and cracks it across the circular hole in that board.

If this has happened, since it a double sided board you need to bridge over breaks in tracks on both sides of the board.

regards Noel

I have four V2000 machines, all Philips, VR2020, VR2022 (x2) & a VR2023. The VR2023 used to work with the remote but I haven't tried any within 10 years. I also have sealed blank tapes. Is there any interest in these otherwise they're going to the recycling centre.

Gabriel:

thank you very much. fuses are ok, i try order new stk5441

Jiri,

Problems regarding full/blinking/erratic display and no operation on F90 betas are usually due to a faulty main PSU regulator IC. It is a STK type (if memory serves me a STK5441).

You can also check all the "IC link" fuses on the main board. They are located near the connector coming from the PSU.

Hope this helps,

Gabriel

Hi k Lambert, thanks, i try it

Can anybody help me with sony sl-f90? After switch on light up only clock and after cca 0.5 second lights up all segments of display. No buttons responds.

See this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEddYtfbNI8

Thank you very much

Tim:

If you hold the cursor over my name my e-mail addy will appear.

Contact me further there.

Thanks................Kevin

Hi Jiri:

Not familiar with that model.

I would first get the capacitors checked over in the power supply first.

Usually with Sony's a few are going high ESR.

I would then check the front circuit board for damage or cracks ,Especially around the power button.

Good luck...................Kevin

Hi Tim

Are you in the UK?

If so I can send you the two items for a very small fee plus P&P.

Let e know.

Kind regards..................Kev

Can anybody help me with sony sl-f90? After switch on light up only clock and after cca 0.5 second lights up all segments of display. No buttons responds.

See this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEddYtfbNI8

Thank you very much

Hello Kev,

Yes, i'm UK based. Yorkshire to be precise!

Tim

Can anybody help me with sony sl-f90? After switch on light up only clock and after cca 0.5 second lights up all segments of display. No buttons responds.

See this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEddYtfbNI8

Thank you very much

Hi Noel. Yeah, I am in Scotland. I always forget to mention that. It's just that, because the page always says UK next to the poster, I always assume the people are from the UK. Thanks.

Hi Tim

Are you in the UK?

If so I can send you the two items for a very small fee plus P&P.

Let e know.

Kind regards..................Kev

Thanks Kevin,

Does the Wattage of the replacement components matter?

Tim

Ross,

Re the tapes, where are you located? I expect more likely UK than Australia.

regards Noel

Mark,

Probably better if you posted that question on the U-matic page...

It is also good to let people know where you are, these pages are read by people around the world - I am in Sydney - and shipping U-matic machines can be very expensive.

Be aware that there are only low-band multi standard machines for Umatic.

If you have hi-band or SP tapes you'll need two machines.

I am looking for a U-matic tape player in great condition that plays both NTSC and PAL formats. Looking for help to get a reliable seller and unit.

Hi Kevin. I just meant, that I am looking for more Betamax tapes to watch. The store bought prerecorded ones, not blank tapes. "As for Brand new tapes, I have came across several blank ones that are still shrink wrapped, have a few myself including prerecorded ones. I have loads of brand new V2000 tapes but yes, VERY hard to find now." Thanks