Cheers again Kev,

Yes it was only a drop, I work with a lot of plastic geared mechanical machines for a living so I know how irritating it is, I've been very conservative. Just want to grab a video from somewhere now and get it moved on, I'm having to borrow TV to test it so that shows you how in to this stuff I am! The picture circuit stuff I'm not so phased by as I've got an electronics bench set up with my 'scopes and meter so that side of it I'm a bit (just a bit!) more confident with. Irritating fault is that the 'lug' is broken on the tape door so the lower portion flaps about, I'll try and find a way to fix that tomorrow. I've got a huge stock of caps and components on hand so if anything misbehaves in testing hopefully I can resolve it. The PSU is all I can test at the moment and that's strong, infact the caps' look in rude health for a nearly forty-year old machine.

I was more worried about the mechanics of it, now understanding how the pendulum works it's much easier to comprehend once you've physically hand it apart on the bench to see what's-what!

Any ideas how much a working and 'overhauled' SL-S30UB is worth? Just before I stick it on the dreaded 'bay?

Thanks, as ever!

Andy

Hi Andy:

My, my I do seem to get about :)

Whenever you add oil to any bearing on these fragile items it's only a DROP .That's it.

I've had some sent/or won smothered in oil all over the reel spools on the friction parts and that is really annoying.

The pendulum does benefit a lot with the oil on the shaft as does the motor flywheel magnet base too.

Be very careful cleaning those video heads though. I've seen a few damaged by owners not appreciating their fragility.

If the head drum spins up there is nothing wrong with the hall effect sensor then.

Is the capstan motor turning OK and going in the appropriate direction?

As for the unlacing in FF and REW only the Sanyo models from their 1982 VTC 5000 and all their later models did that in Beta.

Also the industrial Sony also FForwards and REWInds away from the head set up too.

It keeps the tape flat like and audio cassette player.

The Sanyo's back tension arm pulls it out slightly to engage the tape end sensor.

......Kev

Hi Kev,

Well I think I tracked down a post of yours *elsewhere* on the internet (seems you're a Suffolk man too), where I found a YouTube video of a guy stripping a transport down, which I've done, cleaned, lightly oiled (thankfully I found your helpful remark on the video about retaining the washers in order!!). The pendulum was full of erm.. .gunge and didn't move very freely at all (is this why the machine was abonded decades ago?) I've lightly oiled it as well as the capstan heads with some machine oil after wiping everything down gently with some propyl.

I haven't got a video irritatingly (and I can't find one locally) but if I fool it by holding down the microswitches to engage the loading mechanism and the one in the bottom of the transport it spools up and as far as I can test functions without a video cassette the pendulum swings freely and transfers drive to each capstan, I gently greased the loading mechanism gears and I'll give the heads a clean up in a bit as well as general cleaning around the tape transport.

The head spins up fine, pause releases the sound (?) head and stops drive to the capstands, FF/RW seem brisk but it obviously isn't under any load.

I'm guessing Beta machines didn't unthread the tape for fast-forward and rewind duty?

Thanks again mate,

Andy

Hi Andy:

No problem, when you seen many you get to know their good points and shortcomings over time.

That pendulum sounds fine to me.There should be no belt or spring. The inertia of that reel motor moves it one way or the other.

Does the head disc spin when you press play,or are you unable to get a tape to go inside it?

.....Kev

Hi Kev,

You are of course entirely correct, just the single orange belt which is perfectly strong and intact.

There is "something" that makes me think something was broken/damaged inside the machine though, between the two tape capstans (that drive the cassette) there is a 'centre' pendulum type arrangement which is a plastic gear that swings to contact one capstan or the other, should this have a spring or belt or similar as it's just flapping around at the moment, I'd say it's some sort of brake without any knowledge.

I have vague memories of touching it and something breaking when I opened it when I was about 13 to see what was inside it, but that could have been an old VHS deck.

I have a usable betamax that I would donate to a betaqphile...orange county ca...email me

Its been a while, glad to see you're all still here.

I have aquired a SL-F30 which when I plug in and insert a tape goes into a spin, im not really clued up but not a total novice either. However upon opening and touching nothing, a white clip has fallen out.

It is small with a half moon type grip underneath if that makes sense. I have some pictures if required.

The machine takes up the tape but at first just played without any other functions till I switched off at mains. Im working atm but was gonna spend a few hours this evening.

I had loads at one time, split ftom the wife and have gotten back into the mode again ;)

Thanks kev pretty much exactly describes mine then lol

Phil:

My pleasure my friend.

Andy:

Are you sure you've got that model number right as the C30 doesn't have drive belt's under the deck.

It only has the orange toothed one for loading ejecting?

........Kev

Andy:

If it is the SLC30 UB then the ONLY belt it has is a toothed orange one for tape loading/unloading and cassette ejecting, and it's not underneath the deck (that would be a C6 ,C5, C7 or SL8000. )

You will probably have difficulty getting one new now. Not impossible but difficult. I have never actually known one to break, stretch a bit maybe but not break.

A spares Sony ( C20, 30,40 ,HF100 or F30 would also have this same belt.

Nichola:

The reason the SLHF950 is sought after and worth a high price (would need to be serviced, or near mint with all accessories to justify a really top notch price), is it was Sony's ONLY really top end high quality beta format consumer recorder available. They are fairly rare, especially in a fault free really well looked after state.

The capacitors in the PSU have a habit of going high ESR and if left powered up for long enough like this will damage a fusible resistor and one or two transistors. I have seen a few like this.

They also can suffer with failing LED VU level meter segments, hall sensor, worn reel drive bearing. Areas of the loading sled can give grief too.

They do offer a impressive performance in Super Beta PRO mode with the special tapes.

Also make sure the Hi-Fi heads are fine .if they aren't it's usually down to high use and the reel bearing and PSU components will need sorting too.

Hope this helps....................Kev

Not that I'm interested in selling just curious why they seem to be far more sort after,or for sale expensively

Hi guy's hope you're all well,not posted here for some time,just wondering what a realistic price for a sl hf950 and wondering why they seem to be popular and regularly very expensive on eBay many thanks

Also Kev, I've had the model number confirmed as SL-C30UB, it has the original box as well as manual and remote.

It's just this mystery 'belt' that's given up the ghost!

Can you get hold of factory/service manuals for these machines anywhere, I'm an electrical engineer so I'm quite happy to give all the components a check etc before sale.

Hi Kev,

That may be the belt that has broken, it's been a LONG time since I peered inside the machine (about ten years ago) and I'm only going on what I remember, my parents have found it again in an attic clear out and were going to throw it away but I've asked them to pass it to be, so I can sell it.

I know a "belt" had broken in it, that may be the one. Is there any way it can be replaced?

Thank you for your help,

Andy

Phil:

My pleasure my friend.

Andy:

Are you sure you've got that model number right as the C30 doesn't have drive belt's under the deck.

It only has the orange toothed one for loading ejecting?

........Kev

ITMA! A massive thanks through PALsite to the ever wonderful Kevin Lambert for bringing my Sanyo VTC5150 back to life with replacement heads, after I really thought it's time had come.

This man is whole-heartedly recommended to anyone else requiring Beta repairs.

Many thanks again, Kev!

Phil

Hi,

I'm in the UK and am looking to get hold of a set of drivebelts for an otherwise mint (original box, instructions, remote etc) SL-C30 machine.

A belt under the tape transport has snapped with age (machine was hardly ever used and has been boxed since 1986) - can I still get hold of these?

Cheers,

Andy

Thanks Gabriel. The first thing I did was to spray this whole area (without actually knowing there was a kind of switch inside) it didn't have any effect. So I will disassemble it. I hope it is not necessary to disassemble the LS... You mention 2 positions, I thought there should be 3 : Close, Open and Eject. There isn't any problem when the LS is closed or open, the tape works perfectly when the LS is inside or outside. When the VCR works with the cassette outside I can touch it, nothing happens. It is only in the Eject position that very often the LS reloads at the slightest touch of it, sometimes even without touching it. I will check this and hope you have found the cause for this strange behaviour of the LS.

Frandid,

I have been looking the pages you stated and YES, that is the component I was pointing.

That's a very simple mode switch, with only two signals coming out of it (SK UP-1 IN & SK UP-2 IN). It's not specially complicated, compared to most VHS mode switches containing 3-4 or more signals.

Sometimes with contact cleaner is more than enough. You can even try spraying its surrounding before attempting to disassemble.

Good luck!

Gabriel

Hi all,

I'm conserving about 60 U-matic videotapes of different brands (Sony mostly, Memorex and Ampex) from late 70 into some plastic storage boxes at home. As it's getting hotter and hotter these days ( 30 -32°C), and unfortunately I don't have an air conditioner, do you think that it could be particularly dangerous exposing them at these temperatures? Thanks in advance

Thanks for your answer Gabriel. This area is the first one I suspected but I couldn't find any switch inside of it on the HF950ES service manual. I think you are refering to page 109 (154). As there is no switch could it be the little US-1 board (part 177) working as a kind of switch mode with the 174 gear against it? Regards.

Frandid,

The HF950 has a small mode switch-like at the right side of the mechanics. It controls the position of the linear skate assembly. I recall it was near the zone where the memory battery is soldered.

You will have to remove the eject motor and gears to gain access to that switch. It is not quite difficult to open, just spray it with contact cleaner and re-sit the internal contact brushes.

With these steps it is usually enough to fix your issue. Hope this helps.

Regards, Gabriel

Hello. I still have on my SL-HF950ES the little problem of the LS loading at the slightest touch of it, for instance when a cassette is ejected the system reloads before I have the time to take out the cassette. It doesn't happen always, but often. It is like if after the unloading and ejection some switch was not always working correctly. I am trying to find the switch that could cause this but haven't found it yet. It doesn't seem to come from the system on the right of the LS below the tuner, it doesn't come from the switch below the cassette close to the record tab and I don't see any switch in the S loading rail as there is in the SL-C9. I have checked the unloading and it is always complete. I have cleaned the tape detectors, and replaced the eject and load switches, all without success. Anyone knowing all the switches in action in the linear skate system having an idea ? Regards.

THOR,

I was wondering if you are currently having issues with your SLHF950 in the video area which would make you concerned about the compatibility of those boards for your purposes.

From my experience most of the electronic issues they have are power supply (capacitor aging), erase/bias transformer failure (actually mechanical as well) or head motor failure, and mechanical issues such as load mechanism breaking/heads wearing out/reel motor wear and failure etc.

So getting that ES machine for spares should cover your major problems. If you need any particular board off one of those machines then I have spares available.

From my repairs experiences there are a lot of differences between machines and not just in the model variants but over time in each model. Mk1 MK11 etc.

The same goes for the SLC9 model which has about 5 SS11 board variations if you include the SLO420 model.

cheers Noel Higgins in Australia (Betaheaven.com)

Have a nice life enjoying your Pal HF950 Thor. The advantage of SECAM was that it had a far better picture than the Pal system, much more contrast and brighter colors. (I remember the dull picture of TV when I was in England). Even today's digital HD TV cannot totally compete with it. Betamax was more able than VHS to capture this contrast. We recorded in SECAM until the end of analog TV. Of all my Betamax and VHS VCRs only my SL-C9 F is able to display this outstanding picture almost as it was.

PS : Good luck to UK for making a huge risky step into the past and the unknown.

Been there, done it! :) Anyway I do not need SECAM at all and do not even own any SECAM recordings on Betamax tape. So its only a question if the PAL circuitry works properly. Anyway have a good Betamax life Frandid and thanks for the points.

Yes you must check the connectors. Concerning my experience with the SL-C9 the same boards from the different F, E and ES models didn't have all the same connectors. One idea : If you buy a 950 ES model with the Y/C board working you could upgrade your Pal model into a PAL / SECAM... The SL-HF950 ES service manual can be found here http://freeservicemanuals.info/en/servicemanuals/viewmanual/Sony/SLHF950ES/SLHF950E/ and the SL-HF950 UB (UK) here : http://www.manualslib.com/download/940148/Sony-Sl-Hf950.html so you can check and compare the boards, connectors, etc.

I understand that the SECAM signal does not work with a PAL only unit as the SECAM "slots" on my PAL only YC40board are empty but they are clearly marked SECAM (you only see the empty holes there)! So the board itself seems to be the same in both cases but the SECAM "circuitry" is obviously missing on the PAL only units. But the PAL circuitry is in place on the PAL/SECAM units YC board also, so why would that not route the PAL signal through it like the PAL only units. Maybe its just a question of the inter connectors between the boards being wired differently? Who knows as we don't seem to have any "experts" around to enlighten us at the moment. Anyway thank you Frandid for your input in this matter, its well appreciated.

Thor I am not an expert but I think the Y/C board will not be compatible between the 2 models. I recently purchased an SL-HF950 ES because the Mark2, UB, E... are Pal only and useless to me, all my beta cassettes being recorded in SECAM. (I am french). The top range ES model is the easiest to find on Ebay but sometimes there are MK2 models. So if you can wait a few months you'll probably have a chance to get one at a low price.(Most of the time they are working or "half working" and very expensive but not always.). I had the same kind of problem with my SL-C9F (SECAM) but luckily its YC board was almost the only one still working.(The unit was struck by lightning 30 years ago). So as the SL-C9F is extremely rare I could repair it with parts of different junk E and ES models I found during the last 20 years. Yet some parts as the slow motion board were not compatible between the E and ES model but were compatible between the E and F model ! The main servo board was the same on the ES and the F models but different on the E model. So buying a different model will probably not solve all your troubles but maybe help you to repair some. On my SL-HF950 ES Y/C board some parts are clearly dedicated to the SECAM system. If the price is really low do not hesitate, you also will have spare mechanical parts which is important as some will inevitably break sooner or later. Concerning playback picture quality I think that the SL-C9 is the best compared to the SL-T50 ME and the SL-HF950 in "non superbeta" modes. The T50 is also slightly better than the 950 but has a poor drop-out compensation system.(I own these 3 models). The SL HF950 ES is the best in superbeta/pro modes. But the reason why I like it is the awsome linear skate ! Good luck. Regards.

Does any Sony SL-HF950 Super Betamax expert on this site know if the HF950s YC-40 board, RP-31 board, DH-4 board etc. are inter changeable between a PAL only unit and a PAL/SECAM unit? Im asking this as I have a Pal only unit but have the option to buy a cheap PAL/SECAM machine for spare parts?

Hmm, just worked out why so many posts end up on the Betamax page.

Today I responded to a post on the Umatic page, see below, but because I used my laptop rather than my usual desktop I had to 'register'.

Did that from the Umatic page and then posted the message which has now shown up in the Betamax page!

Maybe something the administrators can have a look at? It appears that all new posts default to the Betamax page.

Mark,

What the machine needs is cleaning and lubrication.

It is not a hard job, albeit time consuming, but will require some basic technical skills.

If unsure then take it to a professional repair shop.

From the description it looks like the machine doesn't fully complete the threading cycle and as a result doesn't activate the switch at the end to tell the machine controls all is well.

You'll have to check the whole threading ring, clean it and remove any hardened or sticky grease.

Make sure you check the contact switch and that it is activated by the threading ring, that last 0.5mm is critical!

Best of luck.

Hi Mark:

Its OK we've gotten used to it :)

...........

Apologize for the previous post. It was meant to go into the U-Matic chat. Please delete if possible.

Hi Everone,

I have a non-functioning BVU-870 U-MaticSP deck. It powers up, however when I put a tape in, it sticks in the door and has to be given a bit of a push to go in. When it goes in, it threads half way. If I manually engage one of the latches it will complete the theading. That is as much as I have been able to get it to do.

When I press any buttons on the panel, the buttons light up but nothing happens inside the machine, other than the eject button which will eject the tape.

Does anyone know what could be the issue here? It looks to be a complete machine. I have all the boards, however I do not know if they are working and I am not very technical in a electronics way. I was given the deck to do some 3/4" tape dubs, however it looks like I will be throwing the machine out and looking for a working one, unless it is a cheap or easy fix.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[email protected]

khaled zwai

check the power supply

-jhonn

if when the power button is pressed there is no light on the power button, but the

the display gets brighter, then most likely, the voltage regulator has gone bad.

the system thinks it's on when it is not.

Ed

Dear Sir

how can I get the service manual of SL-200ME MKII.

Dear Sir

I have sony Betamax model sl-200me mkii, only the green LED is lit when the plug turned on , the power switch dose not give any action ,,only the green lit is on

Noel,

I have been 3D printing gears for Betacam machines ( BVW-75 loading gear) with great success.

Tried the small SLC9 loading gears but my very cheap printer doesn't have the resolution for those.

But larger gears are certainly an option, the plastics are quite strong.

Tony and Kevin,

I must admit I have had quite a few originals break that were too far gone in that they completely crumbled into at least 2 pieces.

Good work on coming up with alternatives for the Sony load gear issues.

What we really need now are replacements for the Sony SLC9 gears.

It should be possible to churn them out easily with 3D printers but I am not sure how robust the plastics from that process are.

cheers Noel

I have solved buying this piece. you just have to spend a bit of 2.3mm along the axis that is is 2mm. and on top it is brass.

http://www.maquetascasagimenez.com/pi-on-laton.html

http://www.maquetascasagimenez.com/pi-on-de-plastico-exp-verde.html

http://www.microlog.net/

Tony:

That info is what was posted by Noel Higgins for those who cannot obtain a replacement gear as a viable if tricky solution.

I did manage to find a replacement, not original but does the job nicely,fits tight and had one less tooth (so is a tad noisier in operation, but then again so is the repaired one:)and seems to be made from a more resilient material that hopefully won't crack..

...Kev

there is video to see this process of reconstruction?

Loading gear and shaft repair

The loading shaft for the Sony has no replacement but most times it can be repaired, unless the gear is in two pieces or a tooth has broken off.

Here is how to repair the shaft when it is out of the machine:

Remove the black plastic gear from the shaft and then clean the shaft of all plastic residue.

Take the gear and pass a hobby knife (or similar narrow blade) down through the gear crack to remove any plastic residue to allow it to close to its correct gap width.

Place the gear in a soft jaw vice such that you can apply pressure to close up the gear crack.

Now use a drill with the same diameter as the outside diameter of metal drive shafts knurled shaft end to clean out the rough plastic residue from the shaft hole.

Take the gear out of the vice. Take the shaft and put super-glue on it and press the shaft back into the gear.

Put the assembly back into the vice again (with the shaft facing down flat, gear top facing up) closing up the gap again but leaving about 3mm of the gear exposed above the top of the vice. (note the gap is facing across the vice gap).

Drill a hole the diameter of paper-clip metal through the top of the gear and shaft but just below the surface of the top disc.

Insert the wire from an unfolded paper clip and turn both ends hard up, then trim off the excess metal. This will lock the plastic gear to the shaft and should keep tension across the gear and not encourage the gap to open up again.

Remove any excess super glue from the cracked tooth gap.

Jhonn:

That's not a UK spec Sony so I have no idea.

Sorry................Kevin

Hi. Please help. Beta sony sl2400 not start. Only clock waht is the problems?

Fransisco:

I would look at the PSU for high ESR capacitors. Maybe even the odd transitor is leaky but I would suspect a few poor caps.

..Kev

Hello - my Dad has a VR2022 and a large number of tapes which he would like to convert to dvd or ideally to computer files for safekeeping (old family videos, etc) - the number of tapes he has means it would unfortunately be very costly to send the tapes to a company to do it. Therefore I am wondering if anyone knows of any companies which sell the kit required to convert the tapes.

Thanks

I just received a SONY C-20. The clock is fixed in 00:00, and don't switch on. Any idea?

Try the U-matic chatpage.

All here are Betamax only.

......Kevin

I'm looking for a working Sony 5630 Umatic, preferably in the North of England, if anyone has one for sale. Thanks

Frandid:

Can I be the first to congratulate you on achieving this.

We've all been there and I too would agree about those not knowing much about these things or working on them should leave alone. You persevered and were determined with a little assistance and achieved your aim. Some sadly are not so lucky.

It is difficult trying to guide someone with these and the hall effect sensor is a very complex and fiddly area to work on.

Different when you've done a few as it's more straightforward then. You know the easier way and also pitfalls too.

As for your other issue. It des seems like over sensitivity to the loading mechanism switch. Have you tried the one that sensors when a tape is down and inside?

I always clean them all, especially if they are showing signs of being dirty or the machine well used.

Also the one that you push to make the LS go inside it could be not quite aligned with the front panel or even benefit from some isopropyl alcohol indie this. The F30 suffers too there, with the recording function being activated when pressing play. Those front circuit boards are a bit flimsy/flexible on that model.

Clean them. See what happens.

......Kev

Haahaaah.... Hall effect sensor successfully replaced and head drum correctly reassembled :-):-):-) Picture and tape transport are OK, as they were before. But honestly I think it is one of the more difficult repairs an amateur can do on the SL-HF950 and I would not advise anyone who barely knows what is a soldering iron or a multimeter to do this... ! Thanks for your help Kevin.

The last little problem I have with this VCR is the linear skate sometimes suddenly loading when a tiny pressure is made on it, so that when a cassette is inserted often the LS system loads while the tape hardly touches it and is not yet inserted. The issue doesn't come from the open close micro switch because I have replaced it and it's the same. I noticed this problem when I purchased the VCR but I think it's getting more recurrent. I made some tests : Sometimes when the LS is ejected I can press very hard on it and it NEVER loads, but more often it loads when I make a little pressure, and sometimes only a VERY TINY pressure on it. This is not normal, it should not load. I tried to search for switches near the side springs of the linear skate but didn't find anything. I hope somebody knows the solution. Regards.

Also there is usually a metal black plastic covered bendable arm that's used to hold the wires away from the loading area near the stationary head on the right. If it's pushed down that too will cause it not too move.

....Kev

Frandid:

Definetely, don't PULL HARD on anything if it doesn't seem to want to move.

There is I believe a small connector on the top head drum board that will need unplugging.

There are two or three wires that will need unplugging too that connect to the head drum board.

To allow you more movement ,as you have stated.

........Kev

Kevin I've just pulled out the magnet and the 3 screws on springs but it's still impossible to raise the head drum more than 2 or 3 millimeters. I made all the slack possible with the wires and I should normally be able to raise the HD at least 2 or 3 centimeters minimum according to wires slack. It seems that something is retaining the HD around the fixed full erase head corner. Is there a special screw or something ? I didn't have this problem on the C9. Also there is a 6 wire connector on top of head drum which might be embarassing and I am not sure it's a standard connector or if it has to be unsoldered. I tried to pull it but it did not move. Anyway I don't think this connector and the bottom wires are reponsible for the fact that I cannot raise the HD for more than 2 or 3 millimeters.I checked if the guide near the full erase head was touching the HD but no. I also removed all the wires clips that could be embarrassing. If I pull with more strenght I am afraid to break something... I can see 3 little semi-circular parts on the white plastic rail around the HD forming 3 little fragile plastic springs against the head drum... Everything seems more complicated on the HF950 than on the C9. .. Help again ! Regards.

Thanks again Kevin. Actually that's what I thought but was afraid to damage the motor coils inside. I will try this evening.

PS : Thor, did you try to touch the beta/superbeta/betapro switch? When I received my SL-HF 950ES a few weeks ago sometimes black strikes appeared on the picture and the color was flickering, I understood it came from this switch. I put some contact spray (KF-F2)in this switch (and all other switches, but NOT micro switches) then the trouble completely disappeared. I also had to replace the main micro contact Play/FF/REW/Stop/Eject switches because they were much to hard to operate and it could not be improved with isopropyl alcohol.(The rest of the micro switches could be improved with alcohol, probably because they were less used. It seems that the former owner of my HF950ES did use much more the panel controls than the remote surprisingly, because the remote responds as if it was new).

But if you have tried checking the swithches without success it is probable that Kevin is right (he is often right !) concerning capacitors and other electronical components. The HF950 service manual is easy to find on the internet but unless you are a pro it will probably be of a limited help. If you don't find the solution to your problem I suggest purchasing a "junk 950 " on Ebay, once or twice a year you can find one at a very low price.If you are lucky you just will have to replace the video board.

Frandid:

You have to lift the magnet at opposite ends at the same time.

Get two small flat blade screw drivers and gently insert each of them about 4 mm's under each side and lift at the same time.

It's one of those jobs when you figure it out it will be easy from then on.

........Kevin

Kevin thanks for feeling my pain ! I hope Mr Spock shares it :-) Now the nut and washer have been removed, new problem : I can't pull out the magnet, it seems deeply stuck. I tried putting a hook inside the little hole, but I can't extract it anyway. I did not open the top of the head drum (where is the head disk) but I don't think it's necessary, is it ? I tried pulling out the 3 drum retaining screws with springs, the result was that the whole head drum was moving up a little (not more than 2 or 3 millimeters) but it didn't change anything concerning the magnet and seemed to fragilise the operation so I put back the 3 screws into their place.(Without tightening them as much as they were !). How can I remove the magnet ? Regards.

Kevin thanks for feeling my pain ! I hope Mr Spock shares it :-)Now nut and wa

Thank you for these points. They are basically the same as a "service tech" I know told me, but I thought a "Betamax experts" insight wouldn't hurt. :) Would not surprise me if this was due to a bad capacitor as I had many of those working on old VHS machines! Never thought though a Betamax machine would stoop so low! :) Anyway this could be something completely different as this ain't over till the fat lady sings! :)

PS: Its not a TV issue as one of the three Betas works fine as I mentioned in the same setup. Also the "faulty" HF100 could be more of a "worn out head" issue as I got that used and don't know its history as well as the others!

oh yes, I forgot to mention my e-mail address in case you know a solution to my question underneath. It is; [email protected]

thanks,

Jeroen

Sorry, seconds after uploading my message I saw this was the Betamax page. I also pasted the message on the Betacam chat page.

Jeroen

Hello everyone!

Me and a fellow artist want to "refurbish" an old Betacam SP shot documentary on sung poetry in the Pamir mountains, which is the eastern part of Tajikistan (Central Asia, former Soviet Union). We began the project in 1993 and somewhere in 1995 a programme was ready. Somehow, we always were unhappy about certain parts of the film, so now we decided to act in our private time, before it is too late, tape-wise.

Because there is no budget we found some generous people who gave us a PVW-2800P and an AJA-io to be able to digitize the approx. 45 tapes into Final Cut Pro.

Now, this is what happened; Although the Betacam Deck worked like a charm before it somehow broke down on me yesterday, after connecting it to the AJA. The AJA was connected via firewire with the Imac and and both put on. The 2800P was NOT powered on when I connected one of the component wires from the AJA to one of the out-sockets of the 2800P. To see whether there was some visuals I put the 2800P on, but the only thing that happened was a quick lit on of the VU meters, a short movement of the video-drum and a ''click'' in the power area of the machine. It does that ever since, unfortunately, also when I disconnect it from the AJA. So, it is not completely dead, but gives only a very short bumb of "life"...

I suggest that something happened with static electricity or something of the like. All machines were earthed though via the electricity socket. Since I would like to get it to work again I wonder what could have happened and also what I could do to solve it.

I hope someone of you has this understanding of Beta-tech and could help in any kind of way. My gratitude will be everlasting! :-)

Jeroen

Frandid:

You are ging through all the tribulations working on these that most of us have. I feel your pain:)

What you have to do is turn the vcr on it's side and insert a small enough screw driver in a hole that goes through the head drum base and head disc.(if you spin the disc you will see these). Also pick a through hole that is NOT near a head connection. There are a few. Whilst you use the screwdriver to hold the disc in place you a small socket to unscrew the nut. You can also put it back the same way.

.......Kev

New problem Kevin : I can't unscrew the bottom nut on the magnet. On my junk SL-C9 it was not an issue since the head drum was blocked, it didn't rotate, but on this working SL-HF950 it rotates and I can't help it with my fingers, moreover there is no slit on top of head drum (as on the C9 ) to insert a screw driver and stop it with my other hand... I tried to put lubricant / degrippant and waited for hours but it didn't work, the nut is still blocked. I tried to insert a thick screwdriver between the external carter and the magnet to stop it rotating but it damages / deforms the carter and doesn't work... Any suggestions ? I wonder how pro repairers do to unblock it. Regards.

Thor:

I have come across that issue on a HF100 but ONLY during recording never playback.

There are many items that could affect this in the colour circuitry. You would more than likely need a service manual too.

It could be bad capacitors to that circuit, a bad crystal, or even colour producing IC. One wat to be sure is follow the circuit with a volt meter and go along until the voltage doesn't correspond with the required value (that's where the manual will come in).

Sorry I can't be of much ore help there.

Also make sure it's not an issue with a wrong setting to the TV (S VIDEO instead of scart , e.t.c That too will cause a monochrome picture).

......Kev

Hope some Betamax expert can help me with this problem? I plugged my old and trusty Sony SL-HF950 in to copy some tapes from it but only get a black & white picture from it now! The audio however is spot on. Also the black & white picture is spot on, but just no color. I used it last a few years ago and it was ok then when I disconnected it! I also have two other Sony SL-HF100 that I tested to see if they worked now. One of them was fine ,color and everything but the other was just like the SL-HF950 missing its color. Just the same symptom? I cleaned the "Hall effect sensor" on the 950 just in case (the head drum spins) as its "glue" looked "bad" but still only get a black & white picture? Also cleaned the head and tape path but without success! Any suggestions to what could be happening here would be well appreciated. Thank you.

Frandid:

I knew you would eventually. Once you've done it, it will be easier next time around trust me.

Also if you make sure two heads are inside the metal part that holds the two parts of the head drum together and tape it on the top.

It not only stops the heads spinning when you handle it ,it also protects two behind that part.I found it much easier doing it this way.

The two black tape guide holders that you also have to remove,if you make a mark around then against the metal clamp on the top, you will know how to put them when putting them back.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

.Kev

At last I've been able to remove this damned black plate without any damage...pfff. Now the serious things begin...

Kevin I take my evenings trying to remove this plate with blades but I still don't find 2 of the 4 clips even putting blades where I presume they are. The backward clips are outside and easy to see but those on the front cannot be seen, as I said they are probably inside. When I try to pull out the backward clip it is still stuck on the front part. Very discouraging. I would need a picture of the part without the plate and with the clips clearly visible, that would help me, but can't find this on the net. Regards.

Frandid:

I know you have to locate where the plate is secured front and back and if you look you will just about see where the black plastic has a lip on it that locates into the metal at the four points.

You have to insert a small flat blade and than wriggle left to right at the same time the metal plate.It will eventually allow itself to unclip.

Don't go mad with it just be gentle and it will come off.

The flat blade it to lightly push in the plastic tabs that stick out to help with this.

..Kev

Hi. I made some training on my junk SL-C9 and now I think I am able to replace a hall effect sensor and also a rotating head disk. But going back to my SL-HF950ES the problem of how to take off the top black plate (which by the way seems to be made of metal and not plastic) above the head drum remains.I have located 2 of the 4 clips you mention Kevin, they are outside the backward of the plate but I cannot see the two other ones. Presumably they are inside the plate but I cannot guess where. When a put a blade to free the backward clips this is not enough to make the plate move. I know that if I put more strength I will break a part of the linear skate assembly. I took hours to search for the 2 invisible clips but did not find them... Looking at the service manual they don't even mention the clips on that part.

Mike:

I do know of a guy who has some Sony BVW 75s that he wants rid of cheap.

......Kevin

Try the U matic board.

This one is for Betamax :)

I'm looking for a working Sony 5630 Umatic, preferably in the North of England, if anyone has one for sale. Thanks

Hi Noel:

Thanks for that and some really rare NEW items for beta's for sure.

The prices are a bit high though even taking into account the former. Those Sanyo idlers in particular especially seeing the you only need to change the tyre on them.

Those pinch rollers are tempting but once gain too pricey.

Interesting too how a lot of new hall sensors are being offered. I queried one seller how he got them and was told new old stock.

Which wasn't very helpful.

Still I've bought about 15 now so should save me having to extend the legs on good used ones.

.............Kev

Some interesting beta parts on ebay in Spain.

See http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/str_fm/m.html?item=322121433320&hash=item4affef00e8%3Ag%3AUTsAAOSwQaJXRbWg&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

cheers Noel

AVR":

I've watched the video you sent and it does indeed seem like the common first main gear tooth breakage.That bit might even be jamming the mechanism.

I do have new gears like I've stated so should be able to sort this for you.

Thanks for the other message on the other forum too.

Cheers again................Kev

Thanks Kevin I was sure this black plastic plate was tricky and risky to take off without breaking something. Now I know there are four clips I will try to locate them and use a small blade as you wrote.

AVR":

I've watched the video you sent and it does indeed seem like the common first main gear tooth breakage.That bit might even be jamming the mechanism.

I do have new gears like I've stated so should be able to sort this for you.

Thanks for the other message on the other forum too.

Cheers again................Kev

AVR2,

It seems that your machine gets stuck when trying to eject the tape. I would suggest to have a look to the planetary set (they are three small gears inside another gear where the belt is hooked on - you have to remove the belt retainer, then the belt and finally a circlip-like washer to access those gears). Sometimes the central gear breaks and the mechanism gets stuck in some position. Check it carefully, usually the crack is not easily visible.

You should also keep an eye to the carriage compartment for misalignment. See through the cassette entrance lid when ejecting (your sight paralel to the machine) and check that the cassette attempts to go upwards in an aligned horizontal fashion. If it tries to elevate one side before the other, that mecha is out of alignment, quite probably due to what Kevin states: a broken gear on the rignt side of the carriage assembly.

If you can remove the cassette from the machine and manually "cheat" the mechanism, you would have a clearer view on what's going on.

Good luck!

Gabriel

I tried turning the upper pulley by hand, and nothing.

Hi K Lambert,

Thanks for that. Here is a video of what the mechanism is doing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oHUcEaR6Vc

Should I try turning the pulley that the toothed belt loops round?

And would you be willing/able to try and repair it for me?

Hi Avr2:

I've just finished repairing servicing two of that model.

You could have a broken tooth on the first main gear for the eject mechanism.This is getting common on some but not all F30 's.

One I worked on had this and luckily for me I managed to buy a lot of Sony spares from an ex engineer and it had quite a few of that gear new.It now resides in the machine and works really well.

If it's not that then the only other thing could be the motor or belt is having issues.

maybe even the greased guides slots for the insertion mechanism needs more newer grease.

If you do get the tape out....One way to do this is wait until it starts to lift the tape up and then unplug it and carry this on by turning the gear with your finger and see what happens.

Let me know..............

Frandid:

That black plate you mention is held in place with four clips .You have to gently insert and small flat blade and ease gently each one until it clicks out.Be careful though as I've seen a couple broken.

.........................Kev

Hi guys,

I have a Sony F30 that was working perfectly until today. When I try to eject, the tape unlaces and then the cassette shell lifts - but then everything stops before it actually gets pushed backwards out of the tape slot. It stays in this position for a few seconds, then it drops down into the load position again and the tape re-threads.

Playback is completely normal, it's the unloading that's the issue here. Any advice welcome...

I'm looking for a working Sony 5630 Umatic, preferably in the North of England, if anyone has one for sale. Thanks

I have seen all his videos he most of the time goes too fast for a beginner and there isn't one corresponding to what I look for (replacing the HES of a SL-HF950 / 750.). First thing I would like to know is how to take off the black plastic plate above the Head drum and ACE block, there is no screw and I cannot see any clip... Regards.

Frandid:

can I suggest you watch 12voltvids on Youtube. This guy regularly repairs services, and overhauls all formats there.

I believe he may even have the removal of the head drum on the Sony beta's.So much easier than trying to explain what you do here.

Hope this helps..................Kev

Thanks John for your answer, I already have the HF950ES service manual the problem is that I don't know what to unscrew in order to replace the hall effect sensor. It seems that the head drum has also to be disassembled but there is no indication how to take off the black plastic plate above the head drum and ACE head, which is my first BIG trouble. I already made several repairs on a SL-C9 F and a SL-T50ME but never replaced a head disc or a hall effect sensor. I have read that care should be taken not to damage the heads and that the head disc had to be secured during the operation but I don't know how to do this. I should receive my new hall effect sensor in a few days. I have a junk SL-C9E that I could use to make some training but I am not sure it will be of some help as its head disc is motionless as if it had been bonded in the head drum and there is no black plastic plate to bother.

Selva,

Sony betas (and many other VCRs) usually mute audio when FFW or REW. This leads me to guess the machine "thinks" it is on Play mode so audio is not been muted. As a previous check I would have a look if the video is properly reading the CTL pulses: play a tape and check the counter on the display. If there is a previous recording it should increase the count (ME -200 has "H:MM:SS" format according to Palsite info). If the counter is stuck, CTL pulses are missing. That case, check CTL head+pinch roller+CTL pulse amplifier.

However, most probable cause is a fault in the capstan/servo section, as Kevin has just commented.

Good luck!

Gabriel

Selva:

It sounds to me by your description that there are issues with the servo/capstan area.

More than likely the main IC is faulty. You also said it goes into FF automatically.

Common issue with the Sony's are bad leaky transistors, poor high ESR caps in the PSU.

Broken/cracked gears.

Also sometimes the vcr has been badly fiddled with by someone trying to sort out issues only making things worse. I've seen it many times.

Are you in the UK?

.............Kev

Damned;

I did see two Hf100 's that had no colour during recording only.

I swapped the boards out to sort that.

What you will have to look at are all the components in the colour circuitry.

I know on the Sanyo VC 5000) in particular there is a tiny coloured potentiometer that sometimes needs a tweak to get the colour back (you get red and blue vertical bars).

There are websites out there which allows you to download them in a PDF file.

It costs around £3.99.This is the site..

https://www.owner-manuals.com/index.php?main_page=index

Good luck....................Kev

Please Please Please

......does anyone know?

SONY sl hf 100.

Plays unfortunately only in black and white color.

What could it be? Typical errors for this type vcr?

Nowhere I have not found a service manual download ...

Thank you very very very much.

The model is SL-200ME Pal/Secam Dual System.. The person I bought it from said to give it a shake :-)

Alan,

I have sent you an email just in case I could offer you the buttons needed for the VTC-5000.

Kind regards,

Gabriel

Correction - will need a complete front cover. The buttons form an integral part.

I am in the process of renovating a Sanyo VTC5000, and need two missing buttons/keys - one for record and one for rewind. Anyone able to help please? Alternatively, would be willing to take a whole scrap machine, if it has these items.

I have probably a Betamax sickness :)

I had to buy sl hf 100.

Plays unfortunately only in black and white color.

What could it be? Typical errors for this type vcr?

Also noisy drum, helps disassemble and lubricate bearings?

Nowhere I have not found a service manual download ...

Please advise me, especially with the color in the image.

Thank you very very very much.

Selva:

It would help greatly if we new the make and model number.

Looking at your name I get the feeling it's not going to be a PAL model.

..................