There's an adapter they make that lets Macintoshes use PC type monitors. Check some of the Mac sites like Sun Remarketing http://www.sunrem.com/ Mac Power http://www.macpowerinc.com/ or Shreve Syatems http://www.shrevesystems.com/ for that and other mac goodies like a Powerbook hard drive adapter that lets you recycle a Powerbook drive to your home compy or to use it to transfer data from one compy to another.

Franny,

I think I have a couple of those adaptors here.. they are the same as Sun adaptors, aren't they?

Also, I wonder (if I can find a large enough HDD to fit one) if one of the Macs might be better suited to running my Live365 upstream? I have not had good luck with PC's doing this.. they all seem to run out of processor very quickly when trying to upstream anything more than 16K.. and even then they still have a substantial dropout rate. :(

hi all!

i'm desperately looking for a complete threading block assembly front for my sony SL-HF150. Part no. is/was A-6751-267-A...

I'm not sure what live365 upstream is but if it's some sort of webcam or webcasting ware than Macs would be as good a device as any. Web icon Jennifer Ringley (Jennicam) seems to have done quite well for herself with the Powermac tower unit she's been using over the years. She recently added a nice iMac to her system as well as the Windoze crap her boyfriend insists on using. With a Mac that has the A/Vs built in all you'd need is to plug some old CCD camcorder to use as a webcam.

You could presumably use an HVC cam and an adapter if you don't mind that the tube would likely burn out in short time and that you'd need enough lights to land an aeroplane just to see anything...

Franny,

Live365 is a web radio server. They take your upstream and use their servers to distribute it.

I checked that 'nicholsonbob' feedback dossier (old 'Ossie' habits die hard) and the current purchases besides the VCR was for a couple bulk lots of tape and a rewinder. A bidder/seller search show only this one purchase. Seems like he might be a legitimate Beta fan.

And to think we overthrew the DDR government we were sick of being spied on...

I bet even a MacPlus could run that without breaking a silicon diode...

I've seen old musician magazines from the 80s where Mac 128ks were being used for Midi sequencing and stuff like that. 'Win-dow's-nuthin' seems to always blout out it's resources by keeping a small part of practically every one of your programmes on the Start bar open in some vestigal portion. A sleek Maccy will only open the programmes you ask it to and when you quit, it's gone...

now pay attention @@7!...

this new device can spot a snaggable beta VCR for miles-_Q_¼¼ [§] ¼¼_@_ - well this Beta work Q-snailie...

The name is pod, gastro-pod- _@_¼¼-==~~ v_@_-eee hee hee hee!

Aaron...

There is a second trip switch that specifically detects the presence of a loaded cassette. It may be in a different place on the 750. On my 300 it's next door to the record tab detector, offset a little. On Sanyos it's on the left side of the loading well. If the switch pin is bent, or the switch blade themselves no longer make contact on tape loading, or the wiring underneath is crossed or disconnected, your machine won't want to work properly. After that has been rooted out the next likely failure point is in the SYSCON chip(s) or circuits.

DasImperator; Thanks for the tip. I checked the switch itself, and it is not a mechanical failure (the switch is popped up, not stuck down). I'm currently pricing repair shops.

_@_¼¼- anybody wanna snagga summa beta tapes and help a charity at the same time?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1384224266

39 prerecorded tapes for $20 start bid. Goes to help disabled children...

Looking at some of the closeups of those tapes and I'm wondering if they were recorded on a BI machine because they're all L-750 but a lot of the movies are on two tapes (a lot of part 1 & 2s). Be almost worth bidding to see if that's the case...

look alive Andy! You got some customers interested in that SL-HF 450 you're selling...

http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/a78f28e7/bc/Goofy+Olive+stuff/some+customers.jpg?bcIuvu9AbCubvSJm

The actual item...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1384255136

olive,you're right,it looks like a real slugfest!

DOES ANYONE HAPPEN TO HAVE A SONY SL HF100 FOR SPARES I AM LOOKING FOR THE FRONT FLAP WHICH COVERS THE TIMER/BETA HI-FI CONTROLS.CHEERS

Hey Andy, back to the same tricks? Reference E-Bay auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1371573925 YOU DID A "BUY IT NOW" THEN REFUSED TO PAY????? See Andy's feedback for his lame excuse. Another one of your famous "mistakes"? RE: Beta Informer.

CHucky, could it be that his payment got lost in the mail? THat happened to me once, notice there is a good feedback, it's not like he was a deadbeat or anything, obviously come agreeable situation was reached or Andy wouldn't have the positive feedback... BTW you're not helping any!

Since I'm seeing alot of posts about Macs, I thought I'd ask here 1st: Would anyone be interested in a nearly-complete Quadra 660AV? It was left behind by a departed roommate about 3 years ago and has been collecting dust since. In original box w/ keyboard, mouse, network adaptor and manuals and what looks like a 14.4K modem. Just can't find the OS CD. Someone can take it off my hands for the shipping cost.

Hey man it's back. Let's hope it keeps on track this time!

Got that RM-81 Betamovie remote commander that I sleeched out from under MrBetamax. I took the liberty of opening it up to see how to make another from Radio Shack bit and it looks to be fairly easy to do. One thing though, Does anyone know how to read a resistor's 'color code'? The colors from L to R are Red, Yellow, Brown, and Gold. I suppose I could just ask for resistors with those 4 colors in that order but I'm sure I'd get dirty looks from the sales staff...

I have a stereo Tv (1983) if i connect the Tv with my 1983 Stereo VCR will I get stereo sound? If so will it only come in phono and scart or just aerial connection?BTW it Dolby Stereo.. (UK only)

According to my SL-HF 300's manual to get stereo sound you have to use the A/V leads. THe RF out is a mono mix of the HiFi channels. Should apply to most other VCRs as well.

Made up a little page for the RM-81 Betamovie commander in case anyone wants to build one for their 'Betamie'.

http://uk.geocities.com/dasimperator/rm81page.html

Nice to see the chat back. Jesse, I don't think I've sent you that drive yet, please e-mail me.

Andy S.:Still waiting to get the time and money together to send my 1000 back for service. Hopefully it will be soon.

Everyone else, welcome back. Take care, and stay well. :)

Hi all, Its Back - Can anyone help with a problem I have on my SLHF950. When I select AV on the VCR the carriage wil not eject play or anything. When I switch to Tuner it all comes to life and works. However I have noticewd that I have no picture through the tuner. The machine plays tapes back fine. any ideas?

Currently looking for a high quality multistandard hifi stereo Betamax machine.

If you have one for sale please email me on [email protected]

To Joseph looking for the HiFi Multistandard Beta;

No such animal existed as far as I know. Sony produced several mono and HiBand multi-standard machines but never brought out a HiFi unit. Other Beta makers like NEC, Sanyo or Toshiba may have produced multi-standard machines but I have yet to hear of one.

Most of Sony's Multi-standard Betas had an 'ME' suffix to their model names and with some exceptions the model number indicated the number of usable TV standards. There were also several European 'PS' units that did PAL and SECAM.

Hi all,

I'm looking for a CCK-4MP cable or just the 14 pin connector.

Can anyone help?

Thanks

Wow! It's back. I figured the trolls killed it for good. Good to see it back amongst the living. I nderstand most of the guidlines but I think we all know what the ASCII art thing was about... Well I won't look a gift horse in the mouth. Anyone have some dead NP-1s to sell? I know where I can get the revived and since I have an SL-2000 (Hooray for me.) WITH the backpack case!!! (Hooray again) I will need a couple of these. Oh, and does anyone know what the "Heater" switch on the TT-2000 is for? this is not tube equipment!

Thanks!Sean

I think the heater was for when you brought the SL-2000 from a shoot outdoors and needed to burn off dew from the temperature change.

Thanks to the fellow who informed me that the resistor for that RM-81 is a 270 ohm resisitor.

While I'm sure everyone's thrilled with the return of Chatpage, let's not go and ignore the Betaphile's Betelore page. http://www.quicktopic.com/16/H/7L8CrFSk7E7

It's a nice page in it's own right...

Woohoo! It's back :) :) Long live ßeta! Long live the chat page!

Hmm, nice to see the ol' Palsite back! Got a few rentals running off ta beta as we speak, so thought we'd drop in.

-- Two Boys & a ßeta ;)

eeeeeeeek! What drive, Brenda? I found a PowerPC 6100/66 (which I turned into 6100/66 A/V with a spare vidicard I had). Does anyone have any of the old Sony ECONOQUICK Trinitron tellies? They are so cute! Anyways, glad to see chat-page is back up. I had a question relating to beta.. Must have forgotten!

Jesse:

I was going to send you a SCSI drive a while back, but we kinda lost touch when my e-mail was down for a couple weeks.. :(

Stupid chat page registration. Brenda I don't want the drive anymore.. I am up to my ears in bad Macs. Anyways.. Does anyone know what model the original remote was for the SL-2000mie? Yes, that is what the heater is for. Leave it on for a few hours and see how hot the video block gets. You'll have a living 2000mie.. and if you play a video it is almost like a purring plastic kitty. :) Oh... Anyone know where I can get a remote for a Yamaha DSP-1 Dolby surround encode/decoder?

I am glad you are back on line.I look forward each day to check on BETA FANS from around the world have to say.

Note for DasImperator: Don't ask Radio Shack for that resistor just yet. If the colors are as you describe, it's 240 ohms and the gold stripe means bang-on 240 (5% max error). Your source of info needs to visit http://webhome.idirect.com/~jadams/electronics/resistor_codes.htm

The SL-2000 used the RMT-311. And yes the color stripes on the RM-81 resistor are in order; RED, YELLOW, BROWN, and GOLD. Using a code guide in the Radio Shack catalog I got about what you said (240 +/-5%) if the first two stripes mean the value, the third stripe the multiplier and the fourth the tolerance. However Rat Shcak doesn't sell 240 ohm resistors, just 220s or 270s and nothing seems to indicate the wattage of resistor needed (any help there?). 1/4 and 1/2 watt resistors are the only ones available in-store - the rest are special orders.

In a remote, I doubt seriously if they would use over a 1/4 watt resistor. 240 ohm is a standard value for 5% and lower tolerances. If you have a parts jobber in your town, they would have it. If not, you could use two 470 ohm resistors in parallel (235 ohms) and be within 5% tolerance.

Hope that helps. :)

BTW.. 470 ohms 5% = Yellow/Purple/Brown/Gold

So I'm right in reading the code as: 1st 2 stripes the value, 3rd stripe the multiplier and 4th stripe the tolerance?

" ...1st 2 stripes the value, 3rd stripe the multiplier and 4th stripe the tolerance?"

_@_v - Yeep! that should do it...

To GEO; Which end of the 14 pin connector do you need? I have a couple cables that used to go to (now dead) HVC cameras. I also saved a couple K-connectors from the boards of a couple dud SL-2000s. I'd wanted to use the SL-2000 ends to make a breakout box for the K -connectors but that's probably on the list of things I'll never get around to...

Here's one for Betafans in Oz...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=801158496

SL-F1E /TT -F1 with the Sony black vinyl carry case for the SL-F-1. $50AU. Seller's in Canberra.

Keen, Olive. I wonder if that is the soft case for the SL-2005 since it is black. Anyone know? Well in OZ it would not have been the 2005...

Sean

I think that there was a black case available because Sony put out a black SL-F1 (NTSC-Japan version) called the SL-F1B. I've seen it in the catalog section at Betamax TO and it's not an SL-2005 because that was a 'lemonade from lemons' model release only in the US or whereever Zenith used to sell betas. I recall Zenith used to run ads trumpeting how their TVs were better rated in consumer tests than Sony's - you heard in the background a voice (presumably a Akio Morita?) cursing in Japanese or something adding "Zenith beat Sony again!". It must've been an acrimonious parting betwixt Zenith and the old Tokyo Tsushin Kogyo Kabushikakaika. (Sony's original name)

Tokyo Tsushin Kogyo Kabushikakaika....

Try saying THAT three times fast!

I think they abbreviated the name to something like "Totsuken". That was there first name, Tokyo Tsushin Kenkyujo(Totsuken), or "Tokyo Telecommunications Research Institute." Later it changed to Tokyo Tsushin Kogyo (Tokyo Telecommunications Engineering Corporation). That is according to Sony Global History, which can be found HERE: http://www.sony.net/Fun/SH/index.html and is a fascinating read.

___@_** eep? I wonder why they chose Sony as the name if it was that long string of Japanese. So, does anyone know what the original remote for the SL-2000mie was? Someone please make a A/V line cable from the Multi Connect bus... I dont like having to use a special adaptor cable so the TT-2000 can hear things. errf... My Sony Mini-me Trinicon-Tron :P is doing great, after a few minor adjustments to its internal controls. What is SCREEN for... It appeared to be for sharpness, but it's connected with brightness in some way because when I turn it up all the way sharpness goes slightly up but brightness goes way down. Turn it down and sharpness goes sharply down and brightness kicks up. Errp. Anyone found a remote for Yamaha DSP-1?

They changed their name to Sony because they wanted to sell in the USA. Akio Morita figured that more people could remember a short name like Ford so he took the Latin word Sonus (for sound) and played around with it. 'Sony' came out the other end of that thought train (it was also close to the affectionate diminuitive 'sonny'). The first product with the Sony name was the TR-55 transistor radio. At the time a major department store wanted to place a large order (100,000) for the radios but they wanted to put their own name on them Akio decided that in the long run it would be better if Sony was able to build a reputation for quality products. So he turned down the offer, which had many on his board screaming...

Akio always regarded it as the best business decision he'd ever made....

I like the terms agreement but I think everybody allready had a chance to simmer down now.Now back to business I'm glad the page shut down for a bit I think it was the magor reason for my success it's been five years since the original on Inside The Web I haven't been able to duplicate the success of that site untill now thanks. I'm glad this site is back now mayby I'll get that U.K. traffic I was looking for. The extended links page is finished I divided it into three sub catagories so you don't have to scroll down so far. I'm still looking for links if you have any please e-mail them to me.

Good to see this forum busy again.I have a C9 which has been repaired.. well nearly anyway. The main problem is that when in play mode, the tape is note being pulled into the take up reel. Similary when in rewind mode is starts but is winding to slowly until the system realises something is wrong and then stops rewinding.

To my mind I think its the motor powering the take up reel, but looking at the fault finding guide there is information on the C20 / 30 /40 HF100 which talks about a bearing wearing out - but does this also apply to the C9? Or is this machine difference with its dual motors.

Any help much appreciated.thanks

Sounds like an idler or belt problem...common mechanical failiure in these old VCRs.

Well the first thingis...

the SL-C9 (or SL-2500 in the US) doesn't have an idler or any tape drive belts whatsoever. The only belt is running off the ejector drive. A pssible problem is that the upper half of the video drum needs to be sanded with a very fine grit sandpaper. Over the years the drum gets too smooth and on rewind the tape overruns and you get a 'fishslapping' effect. In extreme cases it can barely rewind. The person who suggested I do this mentioned that you need to remove the upper drum to do the sanding in oder to protect the head. However I feel that removing the drum risks loosing the proper alignment of the head when you try to put it back on. Also on my SL-2000 you really can't get at the lug nuts that tie down the upper drum, so I just remove the bits of plastic attached to the uper drum and the stop guides for the loading ring to sand the drum in place manually. If you're reasonably careful you won't kill the heads.

The thing to remember is not to go nuts sanding. Just a little roughinh up - you don't want to dig into the metal with it. And you want to sand in the direction of tape travel not across...

This is not for the faint of heart but it seems to work on the SL-2000 I have.

Well DasImperator knows how to dissasemble an SL-2000, it involves a large magnet but you'd better ask him since as far as I know large magnets and video gear do not mix well. I wonder if it is pushing the ASCII art rule if one small snail showed up in the same capacity as a text smile. I suppose what they mean is they don't want whole posts taken up with huge familys of snails. __@_oo

(Snail anticipating getting hit by car)But any more is pushing it.

Sean

Olive, how fine a sandpaper did you use?? IIRC you should use the finest Emory cloth possible to cure the "Video Sticktion"

Glad to see the page up and running again.

Later. Pepse.

To DasImperator: Physical size of a resistor is the best indicator of wattage. If it looks the same size in the store it is the same rating. If you put two 470 ohms in parallel as suggested then each could be half the power rating. BTW 10% or 20% tolerance resistors are cheaper yet the manufacturer paid extra for an unusual resistance value with 5% tolerance. That likely means its exact value affects its behavior (or they had too many of those left over from another project).

Jesse, SCREEN is a terminology from old vacuum tubes. In higher quality amplifier circuits a screen was placed between the tube's input grid and its output anode, and given a mild + bias voltage to achieve greater linearity. Your tube-type camera has an adjustable screen voltage to allow you to trade perfect linearity for a decent looking picture. Crank too far down and the pix goes dark (cutoff), but too far up and the image washes out (avalanche voltage). Just set it somewhere in between. Even with automatic gain control the sweet spot will be different for each scene; that's why the knob is there.

The part about dissassembling an SL-2000 with a magnet refers to getting at the Halle sensor under the video head - like if you have a conductivity problem and need to clean the glue on it. There's very little 'finger room' to pluck out the large disc magnet cover ing the sensor and coil assembly. My solution was to attach a second strong disc magnet to build up enough to be able to pull it out.

Yeah 100 grit paper or finer is what you'd want to use. An emory cloth might do as well if you can control that better. Sandpaper you can cut or tear to fit. Work a small area and rotate the heads away from where you're working.

Taking out the upper drum (not the whole drum unit) should not affect the drum alignment as there is no adjustment needed for this part but to screw it back firmly. This also goes for the head disc for most cases.

Therefore, I think it would be much less risky to break the heads (or any other part) by pulling the upper drum out of the deck before sanding it. Just be real careful when pulling it out not to tilt it so it would touch the heads.

The problem with removing the upper head drum is - in the SL-2000 at least - getting at the hex nut that loosens the upper drum. The Sl-2000 doesn't leave a lot of clearance room and it's pretty well buried. I've had pretty good success just removing the plastic guide pin assemblies on and to the upper left of the drum and sanding 'in situ'. You do have to more careful to clean up any residue of course, but you don't have to worry about misaligning the head drum on reassembly. And since removing and replacing the head drum could just as easily KO the heads you're just as safe letting a sleeping drum lie - so to speak...

By the way this head-drum sanding thing is most likey only applicable to the Betas that employed twin Halle motors for the reel drives. SL-200 (0-1-5)/ SL-F1 SL-C9 /2500 and SL-2700/SL-HF 77

In every mode both motors spin in opposing directions to provide back tension. On an overly smooth head drum the back tension isn't enough so the tape jerks along - flapping the bit of mechanism holding one of the tape end sensors (the fishtail-slapping sound). Other machines that used a pendulum idler used mechanical action for back tension that worked a bit better and you didn't get that 'fish-slap' effect - at least in nthe machines I've had.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1583129164

Ed-Beta Demo tape for you lucky people who have an Ed-Betamax!

Anyone else been getting spam from oddzzchannel03@ oddzz.com? When are they gonna realize that 'everybody' knows that 99.99999999999% of unsolicited e-mail offerings are a scam of one sort or another?

Probably they never will. Don't expect too much from people who do that. If they haven't figured it out now they never will.

I've got something here, a recordable video disk player. That means it's a player. I'll trade it for any reasonable offer. it works, no DOA, I had it working perfectly. I have one so I don't need two.

Sean

Apologies for the broken images etc on the site at the present time. The web server suffered an aoutage today and we are working to restore the site.

Hello everyone! Glad to see this page back! My HF750 recently ran into a problem. For some reason all of the left channel LEDs just stay on no matter what the position of the slider level. The right operates as normal. The left channel audio is adjustable but the LEDs just stay all the way on. I've removed the front face panel and have disconnected the board for now until I figure out the problem. I suspect it's one of the "blob shaped" ICs on the LED board itself that is at fault but I don't have a part number or the service manual for this deck. I was wondering if anyone out there has had a similar problem with the HF750 or 950 who could lend some advise. Thanks!

Will the first thing I would suspect is the potentiometer that controls the input levels in the first place if that broke it would cause those symptoms I suggest you measure the resitance of both potentiometers with a multimeter and see if there is a difference. Good Luck A. Choate

P.S. I had a similar problem with a TV antennuator it wouldn't adjust correctly

Bzzzzzzzztttt!! Phew!! Glad I was able to do a bit of poking around my Sony Trinicon-tron without killing myself (or it). I was asking about SCREEN not because of the camera, the HVC-2200 is perfect. I meant the 1976 Sony TV I have...

I always thought the "direct-drive" units were superior, at least mechanically, than those with a clutch assembly, as I thought they'd be able to adjust back tension on the fly with regard to the position of the tape and the overall wear of the transport. Perhaps I was wrong ?

Roughing the drum may also be necessary on the "clutch" units. I once experienced tape jitter and slow rewind on a SL-HFR70. Then I did not sand the upper drum but simply replaced it and the problems were fixed.

An expert also suggested I should have all the posts turned around by 180 degrees as they might have the same level of wear and smoothness as the drum. I did not do that by fear of completely misaligning the tape path.

Great to see the site back,most enjoyable too

If there's one thing I can't emphasise enough it's this...

UPS sucks! UPS's mother sucks! UPS's sister would've sucked but I didn't have a bus token and a food stamp!

Got my NECcd-amie today...

The 'nose' of the camera was completely broken off! Or at least the plastic stuff. The battery door? Sheared off. The body shell? split on both sides. The handle? Which I specifically asked the guy shipping to leave off the camera so it wouldn't get busted?Do I really have to tell you?Damn UPS guys musta went buck wild on the poor thing...

All is not lost though. It does actually work and tracks OK and I had some shell parts from a Sony Betamie 550. Oh, and the RM-81 I got does work on this li'l puppy...

Damned UPS the Unbelievable Package Smashers ...

and the two NEC NP-11s seem to still be good...

By the way I think this was a Japanese domestic Betamie. Why?

The time is 24hr military style and the dateis the European Year/Month/Day style.

Also most of the stickers on this were in printed in Japanese. I suspect that Japanese Betamies were internally at least built better (let the Geijin Americans take our rejects) than US models. This one seems to run fairly well despite the creaming by UPS (oops!)...

cool-o-san!

Hi all, I am selling my Betamax VCR collection on ebay. Take a look if you like.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=802179803&ssPageName=ADME:B:LC:UK:1

Happy Friday folks! Came home w/ yet another beta deck from a flea market. This is a Sanyo VCR7250 (first Sanyo I've ever had!) superbeta/hifi. Works but it looks like it needs belts and loading rubbers. I know that Sanyos don't lace the tape until play or record is hit. So sometimes, it'll load fine; others, it'll be sluggish or not-all-all, give up, and spit the cassette back out. Sometimes I can even get it load by nudging the wheels w/ the cover off. I need a source for a complete belt/wheel kit. Anyone?

http://www.iglou.com/studiosound/index.htm#video

sells full and partial belt and 'tune up kits' for Sanyo Beta VCRs

Is there a place where I can rent a beta videocassette playerin the PA/NJ/NY area?

Thanks -

Stewart:

Too bad you will only sell those locally, I would have been very interested in one or two of them.. especially the ones with the standard VU meters on them. You wouldn't reconsider and mail one to a Yank, would you? :)

Take care, and stay well.

hi:i'm looking to purchase a betamax vcr in good working condition.please reply:[email protected]

And yes, I have PAL facilities here. :)

Jesse, "Screen" on a TV works on the same principle. Too high will wash out, too low will blacken the darker tones. Trouble is there are three inputs (red, blue, green) and they must be in balance or B&W sources could become slightly magenta or cyan. Now that you twirled a few knobs, it might be worth a visit to the public library. If it's like the one in our town, they have the latest NY Times Best Fiction title but they are about 10 years behind on most electronic subjects so will still have info on repair and adjustment of Trinitrons (and Betamaxes!).

To E Bodner;

I think that finding anyone still renting out VCRs (who would bother when they're like 20 bucks at walmart?) would have long gotten rid of any Beta stock.

grrrrrrr... damned squall-mart. Just think of how cheap and inferior betas would be today if the format had lived. Sony would have tried to look for all sorts of ways to make them $19,99 at our "Always-Low-Prices" fiend.. I mean friend.

Oh god, I could just picture Wally World being full of little 13"-wide PLASTIC center-loading betas for 100 bucks or less. Just replace the VHS well w/ a beta one.

I wonder how difficult that would be, really, to mass-produce betamax VCRs again. Someone should contact say, Sony, to see if they could swap the drum and such in a modern VHS machine to make it be a betamax deck. It may cost twice as much as a VHS but it would be worth it, for me at least.

Sean

Considering that the Betamovie shows that Beta can work with the M-load that VHS uses, it would likely be a matter of using a Beta head and relocating the ACE heads. And a Beta sized carraige as well as control chips for the Beta format. Anyone want a Û300 Beta VTR?

If the 470 resistor is for a remote conrol you could use any wattage a battery can only give miliamps I should see if I have that resistor. A. Choate

I just picked up an sl-100 superbeta yesterday for $2.00. It was in the broken/no warrenty pile at the local goodwill, but opening it up revealed a slightly siezed gear. One minute of work and it works like new. It looks like it came from a local video rental shop, and wasn't used much, as the heads are in great shape. Although the sound isn't as good as from my sanyo 7200, this deck will have to replace it as the video is twice as sharp. Just goes to show you, saving change can by you home video equipment if you look hard enough. Still using beta in Vermont. -Jay

Is there any Betamax (pal system) that plays Betamax (ntsc) tapes?And if it exists, How or where can I buy one?thanx

Yeah, therewere multisystem betamax machines that play back several types of tapes, but I am pretty sure that they need a multisystem monitor. Look for them on Ebay.

Sean

There were several multisystem Betass. The ones you want have an ME suffix, but don't bother with the SL-T7ME or SL-T9ME. The NTSC they output is NTSC 4.43 which is not what the North Americans use. You want a machine that can run NTSC 3.58. Ask Brenda she knows all about this stuff.. and she has a multisystem Beta!

eeeeeeeeeeee... gross centre loading beta.. And then those stupid all-in-one TV/VCR combos! See, aren't we glad we have our rock solid 80s betas!

Side note: I've seen several of these 100-lots of Sony L-830's on eBay over the past few weeks. I'm thinkim', "gee, no wonder L-830's are so hard to find; this dude's been hoardin' 'em all up!"http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1582883920

Most TV/VCR combos are hard to repair at best. I always advise people away from them. If someone started beta again, it would have to stay out of those things! Beta has enough repair issues that we don't need to stick it in something that is inherantly inferior! Probably the only reason people buy those is the same reason for VHS-C, i.e. they are too stupid to do the simplest of color-coded hookups.

I wouldn't mind a Beta version of the Video8 'Watchman' Sony (used to?) put out.

Just imagine an SL-F1 (SL-2000) with built-in tuner and a flip-up LCD screen!

Has anyone seen the Cool LCD screen that goes on the back of a Sony PLaystation? I wonder how hard it would be to modify that to go on a 2000/ F1. That would be something. Sony made something like that for homeland consumption, though.

http://www.betamax.to/w/archive/SL-MV1.shtml

That's what we need!!!

I've seen that portable SL-MV1 beta TV/VCR thing before but Betamax To recently modified their site so that you couldn't directly acess pages anymore. Greedy little nippers...

Click the top link under "index" , and it's under HFR & misc. the SL-MV1.

does anyone have instruction manual for the C9 ', i have just purchased one from a video engineer .I am also looking for a sony HF100 for spares.Hope someone can help .Cheers.

Aww krickey! I see JSparkin is selling off some of his tasty Aussie betas...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=802619375

SL-C40 stereo $125 Aussiebux

I imagine shippings a peach to the UK though...