Hi All,

Ihave a Sony SL C7 Betamax whch has been in the loft for a good few years, i set it up and got it working for about 10 minutes. Then when i put a tape in it wouldn't play and was whiring like mad as if it was either rewinding or fast forwarding, it won't do anything else except eject.

Can anyone help or does anyone know who does repairs in West Sussex.

many thanks in anticipation.

Ian

Hi everybody i have a sl s2000 sony super betamax chasing a new head for it can anyone help? Also if theres another models head which is compatible is also another option

Hello everyone. I have a Sony sl t50-me Betamax for sale. It's in working conditions with original remote and manual. If you're interested feel free to reach me here.

Wow, nice job Frandid. I think It is quite a lot of time consuming but the results are well worth.

Thumbs up for you.

Frandid:

Can I say well done,but for me this should'nt be an issue in the first place.

The LED bars suffer on both the HF100 and 950 but most other Hi-Fi models with led bar graphs don't.

It's pretty poor from our point of view from Sony (Considered the best by many).

I salute you on your efforts and like myself have to make efforts to get certain parts or areas that are no longer available working as they should again or make a compromise.

Nice one....................Kevin

Hi.

I've replaced all the leds from the audio peak prog meter of my SL-HF950ES last week. Half of them weren't working when I bought it. Now they all work :-)

These words just to say it is possible to do it but you must have http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Loupe-Lentille-Pince-Reparation-Lampe-de-Table-pour-Soudure-Soudage-Electronique-/371127160425?hash=item5668e70e69:g:o0cAAOSwpdpVZuaZ and http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Solid-Solder-0-3mm-Flux-Core-63-Tin-37-Lead-Long-Wire-Reel-sp-/181738114959?hash=item2a506f8f8f:g:MgIAAOSw~OVWy2ii and a 30 /60w soldering iron with a 0.1mm tip. And of course : http://www.ebay.com/itm/6value-300pcs-SMD-LED-CHIP-0603-Superbright-LEDs-Assorment-Kit-/251506827844?hash=item3a8ef9a244:g:zYYAAOxyaTxTTo3t

Plus a razor blade to cut short circuits betweem the tiny tracks which will almost inevitably happen.

And also a half transparent sheet of plastic to darken the new leds a little.

This is the minimum required. And a LOT of time.

Regards.

Patvideo:

What you are describing there sounds typical of either worn Hi-Fi heads or an issue with a processing IC for the Hi-Fi.

As this model is not PAL I can guide you no further sadly.

Haver you tried recording anything on it?

If you DO get a Hi-Fi track by playing this on another Beta hi-Fi model then you will no it's NOT the Hi-Fi heads at fault.

...Kev

Hello fellow obsolete format enthusiasts!~ Just got a Sony SL-2710 Beta. ODD thing! When playing a HI-FI stereo tape, face indicator lights up "HI-FI BETA", BUT, VU meters drop to 0 and no sound comes out of unit. Unit has "hi-fi", "mix", "normal" sound playback switch. If you select "normal" or "mix" sounds comes right back on! But, playing a HIFI tape in HIFI output mode shuts all sound off! I'm stumped. I can pull the cover off and I've replaced belts,etc. So I'm ready to go into battle! I just need some intel on "no HIFI" enemy! ;} Thank you kind sirs!

Matthew:

Have you looked at the faults page for the 950 here? There is and issue/fault listed that seems to be similar to what yours is doing.

....Kev

Hi guys, just been reading about the SLHF950 's linear skate issues, I have another issue

Mine is in superb condition but it has a weird problem

when I hooked it up in the past via scart or RCA it always displayed a snowy picture, one day it was black and this is what it does now upon start up

Does the beta system have automatic gain control circuitry like VHS, it is like you tried to copy a macrovision protected VHS tape and the gain control circuitry kicked in and your copy had colour bleed and issues like this

I dont know what to do besides try my local repairer or send to another guy in Tassie I know.

Paid 150 for it and it now has new video heads which I've cleaned already since this happened and no change

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U3GubWvaxmI

Hi Davyrocket;

The first issue you mention IS the mode switch has come loose on the linear skate mechanism.(the knocking noise and going back down again).

I have just repaired one with this issue.

I also always check those PSU capacitors, as quite a few are normally going high esr, resulting in three transistors and a fusible resistor going pop if left for too long.

Some 950 's have had light use though so only a few are just starting to go bad there.

As for the re charcheable battery.I too remember seeing that somewhere but the 950 's I've seen this has been OK.

As for pinch rollers, you can sometimes see them offered but those who do know how to charge for them too.

.........Kev

regarding the linear skate drawer on the SL-HF ,950, the problem with one of my machines is the drawer opens and lifts up the cassette compartment but the mechanism is still operating which is like the teeth making a nasty rattling noise after which it goes back down and operates okay the 2nd machine has a fault whereas it will not fast forward but will picture search it will rewind okay and will picture search if asked to in rewind ,I would also like to find a source of replacement pinch rollers,I did repair the power supply a few years ago and I think nearly every capacitor was replaced along with most of the transistors I also would like to find a suitable replacement battery for the top board I did have details for this but cannot recall them this was for replacing the battery on the ,SL-C9

Kevin,

I am glad that it was my turn to help you.

You helped me several times to repair my SL-C9F, SL-T50ME and SL-HF950ES, as also did Gabriel and Noël Higgins.

Here in the south of France I could not have done it all by myself.

As far as the SL-HF950 is concerned I think the pros will see more and more issues with its linear skate in the coming years.

Gabriel:

Thanks for the kind words and praise.

Indeed the mode switch finger contacts were loose but luckily the motor is fine.

I also have two spare so no worries there either.

You are right tough the switch design is primitive and similar to the internals of the Sanyo VTC M30 and VTC M40 tracking control pot's which also fail occasionally.

Nevertheless I feel confident now to do this to any other's I see with a similar failure.

I also found a way to lightly strengthen that glide rail area to stop that end piece being too stressed with that small roller.

This one had broken off but was still inside the vcr which was good.

Once again many thanks to all...........

.........Kev

Kevin,

I am sure you are solving those issues regarding the 950 quite soon.

As Frandid states (I recall he had a similar problem on this forum, time ago) there is a mode switch -kind of, it is a very primitive design- which often fails and makes the machine going somehow haywire with the skate transport.

That switch sits on the right side of the assembly, viewed the machine from the front side. It is within a small reduction gear group, easily removable. If memory serves me, you'll have to remove the top board, containing the memory battery, tuner, so on.

It is often possible to repair it with patience and glue. Watch out these tiny comb-like contacts!

On the other hand, replacement motors can be savaged from more modern VHS Sony decks. Being the type of "one-block-mecha-assembly" it can be located underside. If not, an original new Mabuchi 370 with the right axis length and diameter is the best solution. Older VHS machines like the SLV757 might also contain an exact replacement for that motor, but there is a chance they are worn as well.

Hope to be helpful!

Gabriel,

Frandid:

It's my turn to thankyou now.

I was indeed that area and the whole finger contact part was loose.

I've glued it back in and also added a re enforced plastic block to go over this area and glued plus lightly hot melted it so those metal fingers cannot fall out ever again:)

It works A1 now.

I have also taken pictures so to show anyone else who comes across this issue.

The way those fingers were attached is the same as on the Sanyo VTC M30 /40 tracking control pot's by hot melting tiny blobs which DO break off after time.

Actually working on that area was quire enjoyable. One area I've never had to venture until now.

Just the caps to check now in the PSU and it's looking and working pretty damned good now.

Thanks again.............Kev

I think it is the mode switch (black part) that tells the motor when to stop.

Frandid:

Thanks for that. It's the first time for me to work in this area of the 950. I was wondering how the motor knew when to shut off after pop up.

I hav'nt checked that area yet so will do.

I think when that sled rail had the broken area and was banging ,it also caused this hatch area to click and go on longer than it should. I think that's why know I've sorted the other it's not stopping.

Will let you know what I find.

Cheers again...................Kev

Hi Kevin

I will discuss more about the head disc of my SL-HF950 later on :-)

I had several issues with my linear skate so if I can help :

If the motor is extremely noisy it is dead ! (It ca

The closer to the original is the RF 370 that can be found very easily from China on Ebay from 3 to 5 euros. The problem is that not every motor works. I had to try 3 to have one working. They have almost the same reference but some may not be able to be strong enough, or some turn too fast or too slow...

Check that it has exactly the same dimensions as the original, that it is a 12 volts, then... pray !

If the linear skate behaves in a strange way, loads and unloads when you don't hit the eject button it is probably the small mode switch which is half broken. It is easy to repair with super glue and epoxy. I gave the solution here : http://www.palsite.com/950tech.html ("The SL-HF950 linear skate loads at the slightest touch of it...").

The plastic fixations of the 6 contact blade must be broken and the blade is probably moving causing erratic behaviour.

Hi Betaphiles:

Just want to throw this out there.

I have been sent a Sony SLHF950 that has two issues.

The first I've sorted and was down to the very end of the skating mechanism slide rail being broken off.

The second is when the tape hatch pops up the motor keeps wirring until eventually it goes down again on it's own and withdraws inside the machine.

Is this a fault with this motor internally. I removed this assembly and I have stopped the loud clicking at this point but now the motor keeps turning continuously on pop up. It has operated once correctly but now is turning all the time until it goes back inside.

I do have two spares that I can try but thought I'd ask in case anyone else has come across this?

Cheers in advance..................Kev

Cees, it will depend on what is recorded on the tape.

If recorded on a Betacam machine, yes. If recorded on a Betamax machine, no.

Main problem will be the difference in tape speed between the two system although the tapes are the same size.

A L750 3 hour tape will run for 30 minutes in a Betacam machine.

Is it possible to play a Sony DX L-750 tape on a Betamax SP UVW-1600P player?

Frandid:

You pose a good question there.

In theory due to the nature of the recording system used on PAL Beta vcr's the Hi-Fi audio ,should deteriorate before the picture, as this is recorded deeper onto the tape with the video skimmed over the top at a slightly different angle to avoid any crosstalk interference.

Usually the Hi-Fi will be lost or have a limited tracking range before the video shows signs of advanced wear with picture tearing, especially around white to black objects. When recording with wearing Hi-Fi heads you will get during playback a clicking /tizzing noise that you cannot get rid of on this vcr. The tracking range will also be severely limited and you will be lucky to get any Hi-Fi sound off centre. This is also providing the internals are set up perfectly too.

I believe it's called depth multiplexing.

The NTSC system had more room for the Hi-Fi so used the same two heads for BOTH. The nice thing there is two head discs are easier to come by (and cheaper) than the four head Hi-Fi type.

Also on the SLHF950 there are five heads.(even six as I think it has a flying erase head too?)

Two set's opposite for the Hi-Fi audio and three set's on the other two opposite (on one side a head is split into two with one tiny head angled differently to give the clear still picture).

This third head is very easily damaged as it's the smallest so beware.

I have seen a Sanyo M40 with still decent hi-Fi but the video ones are (or look to be) bad.

On most (99%) the hi-Fi goes first.

It is also possible I guess to damage or cause premature wear to a head when cleaning them improperly. Make sure too cleaning type tapes are used very sparingly, avoid the wet types with those horrible ribbons that will wrap around the capstan (I've seen it happen) preferably avoid them all and keep those flaming cotton buds well away!!

Hope this helps....................Kev

(Reposted down to revision and spelling mistakes)

Hi Kevin and Gabriel

I had to take off the tape holder to deeply clean the head drum, and now it's OK. :-)

Just a question, for my knowledge : Is-it possible on the SL-HF950 that one of the rotating video heads starts being worn yet hi-fi sound is still OK on both channels even with extreme (bad) settings of the normal tracking button ?

I saw clearly that there are 4 heads on the head disc, I don't know if each of them is a video and hi-fi audio head at the same time or if only two or three are video heads and one or two hi-fi audio only.

If it is like in VHS all four should be video and audio at the same time, hence if a video head starts to be damaged audio will be affected at the same time.

On VHS when rotating heads start to wear hi-fi audio is affected before video shows any problem !!

I know that there is a difference between VHS and Beta about how the hi-fi audio work on both sytems, but cannot remember what is this difference.

Regards.

Frandid:

My friend I think you've just found your answer.

WELL DONE........

It's obviously a dubious tape has deposited this on the surface and hence your current issues.

.............Kev

Thanks very much for your answer Kevin. I don't have a Sony beta torque tape unfortunately. But I thought about this issue when sleeping (!) and woke up with an idea : If the problem doesn't come from head wear, dirty heads or tension it might be caused by a lack of contact between the head drum and the tape. So I carefully watched the head drum with a magnifying glass and a torch light and saw very tiny traces of VERY sticked dirt on the upper part of the head drum. It was almost invisible and concealed below the tape holder and guide n.2. It looked like 2 or 3 little dots. It was very difficult to clean. I don't know if I managed to clean it all completely. I tried a few tapes, 95% of the problem has now disappeared, only sometimes a very thin and short line (or only white dots) appear from time to time mainly when I play reverse slow motion at the very beginning of a tape. What do you think about this ? I will clean it more later on when I'll have more time.

Frandid:

I had a Sanyo VTC M30 that did the same thing in reverse search but only at the beginning of the tape. The heads were highly used and the clean still frame one was showing signs of wear.

It's basically the head s having a job reading the entire surface of the tape that leads to areas not getting read, hence the thick bands of noise.

What you need is the Sony reel torque tape that will give you the forward and back tension readings.

The forward tension should be 80gm + _5 and the back 31 t0 34.

This would help in knowing exactly if this is set right.

If it's Ok then I would put it down to the video heads beginning to show signs of wear.

...........Kevin

Thanks for your answer Gabriel, I appreciate. Nevertheless tape path at the pinch roller is probably more perfect than in any of my other VCRs, VHS and Beta, tape doesn't go up or down at all when I hit a reverse speed... ! The pinch roller looks almost as new and is not shiny, I cleaned it, but no change. I am a bit reluctant to sand it. The stripes are identical in slow motion reverse speeds (the same in reverse frame by frame)and in fast reverse. I don't understand what's going on. Did you watch my video ? Have you ever seen those stripes on a VCR previously ?

Frandid, glad to talk to you again,

I see you have issues at certain play modes with your HF950. It might sound obvious, but have you checked the pinch roller? When it begins to worn, reverse modes start to show problems. Just grind it slightly with small grain sandpaper and see if something improves.

Hope this helps,

Gabriel

Hi

I didn't find the tension adjustment coil spring and screw in my SL-HF950ES, but with my finger I pushed the tape guide pin of the tension lever regulating assembly in both ways, it did not change anything, which should indicate it is not a tension problem. I cannot find the adjustment screw shown on fig 3.28 and 3.33 p190/194 of the PDF sl-hf950es service manual, probably because it must be under the black part on bottom and I did not remove it, but this little experiment makes me think that it is not a tension issue. With my finger I also tried to push the tape in several places of the tape path but it never got any better, many times worse which is normal. Tape path is perfect, the tape never goes up or down, never shows a loop, it travels perfectly in all the tape guides shown on fig 4-4 p198, from guide number 1 to guide n.10 either in normal or reverse tape speeds.

Again I have cleaned video and stationary heads, tape guides etc. but no improvement.

I cannot believe that if the video heads were damaged it could be seen only when I hit a reverse speed button.

I don't see any answer to this issue so is it possible that nobody (especially no pro) has ever encountered this problem as shown in my video, am I the first one to have this issue ?

Roderick and Frandid,

Thank you for your helpful advice. I played an oxide tape for dozens of minutes and the picture is now as crisp as before!

I've got to be more careful from now on.

I have a quantity of previously recorded V2000 tapes which I want to go to a good home. They are a mixture of 2 x 120, 2 x 180 and 2 x 240, Grundig, Philips and BASF. They currently hold various films and programmes recorded during the 1980s. I have no working machine so cannot check what is what. Any sensible offer considered.

I also have a Grundig v2000 2x4 machine which is available for spares or repair, and a similar v2000 2x4 Super. Offers for either of these also considered.

Kei, the best thing to do is play a known good tape for an hour or so. That will normally clear any clogging of the video heads.

Kei,

Sometimes cleaning tapes make the things get worse, have you tried cleaning the video heads with isopropyl alcohol or cleaning fluid ? You'll have to open the VCR and be careful, but some videos on Youtube show how to perform this.

Concerning the issue with my SL-HF950 (noise in the reverse playback modes) I have noticed that it doesn't happen if I play the LAST minutes of a tape... Anybody having an idea of the problem ?

Video here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX6gXt8PZgI white lines starting at 00:10.

Regards.

Hi,

I am Kei from Japan and this is my first post here. I've got a problem with my Beta VCR and am looking for anyone who could help me out.

I've got an SL-HF3000(Japan) and turned it on for the first time in a few months. I was so careless at the time that I mistakenly put in an ED metal tape and got an awful picture. After playing it for about ten seconds, I noticed that the tape was wrong and immediately ejected it. Then I put in a correct High Grade oxide tape, but unfortunately, the picture was full of Moiré-pattern-like noise in the dark areas! I used a head cleaning tape, but nothing changed. Every other tape played the same way.

I am wondering whether this is the result of putting in a wrong tape or just something got wrong in a few months without being turned on. Does playing a metal tape fatally hurt the head drum of a non-ED Beta VCR?

Thank you in advance.

PS : "Stripes", sorry !

Hello again

New issue with my SL-HF950ES. Several white stipes appear in all reverse playback modes. All heads and tape path are perfectly clean. Tape edges are not damaged. You can see the problem here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX6gXt8PZgI

Thanks for your help.

J.T.

I am familiar with the sony domestic edit control systems using the L (lanc) and the S (I assume serial) control systems and have used them to control editing between various machines using one as mater and one as slave or both connected to a controller.

I used an SLV850 to control an SLHF950 and also an 8mm VCR for transfer purposes.

I don't think the manufacturers even tried for interconnection in the domestic markets but they had to in the commercial TV market.

Hence machines like the SLO420 (a variant of the SLC9 ) were developed.

I hope this helps.

regards Noel

Leo, whatever.

If you prefer to use wrong terminology based on a narrow view, then knock yourself out. Just regurgitating incorrect assumptions doesn't make it right.

Betamax and VHS use the same size tape but that doesn't make the machines compatible.

James.

Did you get my e-mail?

....Kevin

Cheers,

Roderick,

But where does it say the video recording format itself is called CCIR? It just states AV-3620CE uses a CCIR video signal.. and is based on CCIR signal using ½ -inch tape.. and that CCIR is used in various European countries. All these descriptions pertain to an EIAJ VTR that complies with the CCIR video signal; Hence the name EIAJ/CCIR VTR.

I'll quote here some more reputable sources than myself:

..they are 1/2 inch magnetic tapes residing on plastic reels of 5 or 7 inches in diameter. And on these tapes, there are video recordings made with EIAJ VCRs.

..EIAJ (Electronic Industries Association of Japan) is a real standard. Before EIAJ, there were the pre-EIAJ formats. They weren’t standards. Each manufacturer had his own format with his own tape running on his own machines..

..To read an EIAJ tape, you must have an EIAJ player [VTR] with the right standard. There are machines built for 25 frames per second and machines for 30 frames per second. Some [later EIAJ] VTRs deal with colour signals (NTSC/PAL/SECAM), but the vast majority are only for black and white recordings..

LeoB

Ps. I take it that you’re not going to mention ANY ½-inch open-reel VTRs from the 1970s that actually go by the format name of CCIR?

Hi Kevin,

Here's my email address: [email protected], if you can mail me, I'll send you a short clip of the fault. Thanks

James:

Is there any way you could get a video of this happening? It may help.

..Kevin

Hi Kevin,

Thanks for the info, I've had a closer inspection of the VCR, the motor looks & sounds in good condition with plenty of grease, the white plastic glide on the right hand side seems intact and spring still loaded but jam's up every time... Annoyingly, there isn't anything that's obviously broken, any thoughts?

Leo,

From the Sony AV-3620 service manual:

Video Recording System

Recording system: Rotary two-head slant-track scanning

Recording signal: 2 : I interlace composite Video signal based on European TV standards using CCTR or industrial sync.

Modulation system: Frequency modulation

Interchangeability: Recordings made on all AV620CE Videocorders are interchangeable.

Similar descriptions can be found in technical descriptions of CCIR based 1/2" reel to reel recorders.

For a AV-3650 the recording signal is described as EIA Standards or equivalent.

The older CV-2100ACE machines specify the recording signal as:

Composite video signal based on CCIR TV Systems (standard or industrial sync)

British TV Standard (405-line)

CCIR Western European, Belgian, Italian, Irish and OIRT TV Standard (625-line)

French TV standard (819-line)

Assembling a working system of compatible components-

What I have to work with that is fully functioning-

SONY BMC-100 Betamovie camera,tapes,batteries,charger,cables

SONY SL-H950E/ES recorder. Tapes. (Europe model...no problem, I work in Europe.)

SONY RMT232 (remote controller for the recorder)

SONY RM-E100V (video editing controller?)

Blaupunkt DVM1000

Various monitors to plug into for viewing/editing

Various format audio devices for recording/playback

As I understand the SL-HF950E /ES recording deck is pretty good for what it is. I am

finding other video editing controllers made by SONY but not much information

on their compatibility with this generation of SONY recorders. For example

SONY RM-E300V, RM-500V...700V,1000V.

As I understand the Blaupunkt DVM1000 also had a Title Generator accessory TC -200,

and TC-300. There was an additional example of mixer after the DVM1000 that is

the DVM2000 and the title generating accessory, TC-300, was for that generation. These

are not too hard to find but no one seems to know if the title generators are interchangeable

with the DVM1000/DVM2000. Sort of the same dilemma as I mentioned with the SONY options.

I will keep looking for databases, charts, and lesser known information about these items. But if there is someone who has already been down this road I'd like to hear about it. I'm trying to keep this project form spilling over into the next generation of instruments. What

I do have was not difficult to find for little or nothing. Fortunately all the items function

and they are all original. As they work I will continue to use them and maintain them. I am aware of the BETA differences with the tapes, etc. This is also not a problem at the moment.

I also have other video recorder/players but let's not get into that now....One format at a time. I have scoured the PAL, NTSC,BETA sites for information.

Kind regards,

J.T.

Rich:

Luckily there are still a few places that can source these parts.

It was either E-bay or Ultrasource that I obtained the one is needed from.

James.

An issue that could be causing your no ejecting is the breaking of the plastic glide strip to the 950 at the beginning.

It has pressure to it at all times and some have broken. There is a way to solve this.

If it's not that then the motor/worm screw area needs some grease or assistance.

......Kevin

Hi Kevin.

I slightly adjusted the vr214 pot and the colour came back as you suggested.

Thanks.

The colour seems a bit weak though with solid colours especially red and blue having little 'zig-zag' squiggles on it.

Recording and playing back a cartoon is mostly unwatchable. Hmmm

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction though.

Rich.

Rich:

Luckily there are still a few places that can source these parts.

It was either E-bay or Ultrasource that I obtained the one is needed from.

James.

An issue that could be causing your no ejecting is the breaking of the plastic glide strip to the 950 at the beginning.

It has pressure to it at all times and some have broken. There is a way to solve this.

If it's not that then the motor/worm screw area needs some grease or assistance.

......Kevin

Hi,

This gets interesting.

Roderick: Your reply seems to suggest that there are, or were an open reel VTR format, using half-inch tapes that was officially labeled as CCIR? Can you mention any actual model of such VTRs? I am only aware of the EIAJ or pre-EIAJ machines, or the so-called skip-field VTRs that comply with either CCIR, or NTSC signal format.

Of course an NTSC-version of any analog VTR/VCR (Beta, VHS, VCC, Video8 etc.) has to run at higher tape speed than their CCIR-variants - since they have to write and read 60 stripes of video signal (fields) each second, whereas CCIR versions need to do only 50.

CCIR is just an antiquated acronym for the European 50/625 analog video signal standard; it can carry PAL, SECAM or even NTSC type of color TV signals, like they used to do in South America.

LeoB

i have problem In SONY-Super Betamax-SL-700ME-MKII

see the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jxq_bT1Eag

i try another working power

nothing happens the same problem

Hi Leo,

Thanks for your response. The tape eject mechanism ceased to move forward - allowing the tape to eject.

Also, there is a constant banging noise when powered up. Both are probably mechanical and parts will be an issue to source, but I'm no engineer or Betamax specialist, so hard to gauge. Please let me know if more specific information is needed. Regards, James.

Hi James,

What seems to be the problem with the SL-HF950s?

BR,

LeoB

Hello,

Is there anybody who could help with a Betamax repair? It's a Sony SL-HF950 Super Beta.

Any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Hi Kevin.

Thanks very much for the information. If the pot isn't at fault are those replacement parts obtainable?

Thanks again

Rich.

Rich

That issue is common to the 9300. There is a potentiometer that needs slightly adjusting on the bottom board.

If that does not solve the issue an IC could also be the problem but I would suspect the adjustment pot.

Adjust AFC(VR - 214). If that fails, replace Q204(IC, CX -150) and surrounding electrolytic capacitors. AFC may need to be adjusted after these components have been replaced.

Good luck.....................Kevin

Just another note to my last message...

I've just been playing with this vcr and when I switch from test signal switch on to off the colour comes back intermittently. As soon as I adjust the tracking or put it in pause the colour goes off again back to a mainly black and white picture with the rainbow effect. I'm using the BNC output.

I wish I could post pictures on here to illustrate the problem 😤

Thanks.

Rich.

Hi all.

I have just acquired a Sanyo VTC 9300PN. I've replaced the belts and forward idler and given it a good clean. The problem I have with it is on playback. The picture is mainly black and white with a kind of rainbow effect of colour appearing on the picture. It's the same when connected with the aerial lead and with the BNC connector. I have not tried recording on it yet.

Do any of you guys know what the problem could be please?

Many thanks.

Rich.

hullo, all..

please forgive me if this is a FAQ -- i am new to betamax. (though i am old enough to have had one in my home as a kid..)

i am an IT guy and have been asked to convert (to .mp4) a box of old Betamax tapes in someone's storage, for a non-profit organization, which were recorded in the 90's.

so i am in the market for some kind of betamax player. i see from perusing ebay, craigslist, betamaxcollectors.com, and palsite.com that -- as may be expected -- many of these machines are by now in great need of overhauling before using. and that if they ARE running, they get a pretty penny.

my question:

these tapes are old enough that i am sure they have degraded over the years. so if they play at all, they will likely have tracking problems and data loss.

therefore, of all the models available, would you folks either have recommendations for..

a) specific models i should try to go for, which would be best able to deal with old tapes and produce the best picture?

OR

b) if not a specific model, then at least specific features (number of heads, auto-tracking, hi-fi, etc.) which would be best likely to handle these old tapes and produce a good picture?

AND

c) any other considerations i should know about?

thank you!

js

The Yoshio Sawaji report is correct for EIAJ recorders, the CCIR standrad for 1/2" video recorders is quite different, for starters the speed is much slower than a EIAJ machine. EIAJ is 19.05cm/s, CCIR is 16.32cm/s.

The only thing in common between EIAJ and CCIR machines in the tape width, they are not compatible otherwise. You cannot play a CCIR tape on a Sony AV3650 nor could you play a EIAJ tape on a Sony AV-3670. To suggest otherwise would be at least unhelpful.

I own, and maintain, a vast number of Sony, Panasonic, National and Shibaden 1/2" machines in both formats. Even have a number of the Panasonic 1/2" cartridge machines.

Hi,

This may be beside the point, but I rather think the acronym EIAJ refers to a VTR format (among many other things). They are classified as EIAJ-1, EIAJ-2 and 'pre-EIAJ', all of which use ½-inch tape, wound on 5 or 7 inch open reels. There are also EIAJ cartridge VCRs.

EIAJ-1 is a monochrome version, compliant with either NTSC(525/60) or CCIR(625/50) video signal format (I have a few CCIR decks). EIAJ-2 is a color version, compliant with either NTSC or CCIR/PAL signals. The so-called 'pre-EIAJ' machines are more or less proprietary, evolutionary formats, developed by various companies prior to about 1970.

European EIAJ machines were marketed at least under these brands: Bang&Olufsen, Grundig, Gyyr, Hitachi, IVC, JVC, National/Panasonic, Philips, Sanyo, Shibaden and Sony.

According to the document below, it seems that half-inch open reel VTRs should be called EIAJ, before anything else:

“EIAJ Standards for 1/2-in Videotape Recorders” Journal of the SMPTE. v.79, December 1970, submitted by Yoshio Sawaji.

Anyway, there are still EIAJ video footages in Europe that nobody has seen in 50 years. That is why we should have a chatpage to discuss how to make them viewable once more.

LeoB

Leo has a good idea.

Please add a chat site Video8/Hi-8

Leo, technically speaking EIAJ ( Electronic Industries Association of Japan) are NTSC recorders. The PAL version is known as CCIR (Consultative Committee on International Radio) the committee who developed what would later become PAL.

Dear Sirs,

Why not set up chat pages for VHS/S-VHS, Video8/Hi-8, Philips/Grundig VCRs and EIAJ VTRs here at PALsite?

This would then be the primary European VTR/VCR net forum. I can also post here technical descriptions of

various technologies used in video recorders.

Thanks

Juha:

Link doesn't work.

http://www.digiommel.fi/Improved%20Image%20Quality%20of%20Old%20U-matic%20Recordings.pdf

Here is perhaps the best Low Band player in the world (PAL). Also with a Y / C output of course. If and when the others do not get played back your tapes, we can. Comments are welcome.

Jason:

My pleasure.

...Kev

Alm7rom:

Worth having a look but could also be a faulty motor ,or one that's getting tired (I know the feeling lol :)

....Kev

A post just to say thanks to Kev for all his help.

I now have a fixed Betamax VTC-M10 to give back to its happy owner 8)

Regards

Jason

Mr Heap.:

It sounds/looks like a Betacam or umatic vcr.

Please post this on the appropriate board.

(Look to the list on the top left of this page).

Thanks..................Kevin

The Sony VO-5850P has developed a tape transport fault so that when inserting a cassette into the recorder the tape is at first stretched out round the record head in the normal way. The tape then almost immediately goes slack. The recorder does not go into the standby mode. Play, record, search, fast forward, fast rewind do not work. The cassette cannot be ejected.

I am advised by a video repair engineer that this is due to the failure of a component on the circuit board that controls the tape transport and that as it is impossible to identify the component that has failed the best remedy is to replace the entire circuit board. However the Sony VO-5800 /5850 series are obsolete in the UK and circuit board spares are difficult to find. Advice welcome.

K Lambert

i do what you say nothing happened

is this low voltage in capacitors or other parts ...???

Alm7rom.

Make sure the toothed belt isn't set too tight.

Also a tiny drop of oil to that motor shaft could get things going better too. Just a TINY one though.

..Kevin

hi

i have betamax sl-t7me

the loading and unloading is very very slow

i replace all belts and tires still slow

what the problem ...???

And also got the red record button!

Hi Kevin. Just emailed you a couple of photos. Pretty sure it's the m10. Can't see any IR and label does say m10. Regards jason

Jason:

One way to be sure what model you have is.

The M10 had no infra red remote control capability and a one event seven day timer.

The M20 DID have an infra red remote control and also an eight event fourteen day timer.

If you remove the front cover after taking off the lid then you will see if it has the infra red sensor attached. If it does then you do have the M20 if not then someone has changes the front panel over.

I need to know the exact model as the resistor placement has a different number for each model.

.....................Kev

Jason:

The UK M10 is a light silver with an all red recording button.

The Australian one is also the same colour but has a socket to the far left for a remote pause lead.This socket goes where the eject button is located on the UK model (see the pictures posted on this site).

The M20 is an attractive dark pewter grey for the UK model with coloured buttons.

The Australian one is also a light silver color too.

......Kevin

Jason:

Give me a day or so and i'll e-mail you with this info.

The resistor that you replace is numbered differently for the different models, that's why I needed to know which model it was.To make sure you change the correct part.

Talk soon...................Kevin

Jason, from all the pics I see on the internet it seems that some M10 and M20 have the socket, some don't have it. Regards.

Thanks Kevin, I await your email.

I do ponder if the pictures on this site are slightly muddled.

By the picture, I clearly have this model

http://www.palsite.com/tech.py?model=m20tech.html

But by the model code on the sticker on the reverse of the machine I have this model...

http://www.palsite.com/tech.py?model=m10tech.html

But my model does not have the round socket at the bottom left as shown in the M10 picture, but a full row of square buttons as shown on the picture for the M20!

Are the pictures muddled up on the website??

Regards

Jason

K Lambert, thank you, but I replaced the full metal box, not only the boards or transistosr, o do you mean the capacitors on the small board? Now I have not it at front, I say this from memory. Thank you

Hi Kev thanks for the advice on the multistandard betamax. Its gone in the collection of machines that need tweaking one day.

I have some NTSC betas I'd love to transfer so will keep looking for a worker here in good old Britain or look at chancing buying one from the states. Sound is perfect but screen is just blank. Very annoying lol.

Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

Jason:

Give me a day or so and i'll e-mail you with this info.

The resistor that you replace is numbered differently for the different models, that's why I needed to know which model it was.To make sure you change the correct part.

Talk soon...................Kevin

Hi again Kevin,

I have just looked at the back of the device, and it states its an M10, but from pictures I would have said it was an M20!

I have taken the top off the box, and the top off the front loader and can clearly see on the assembly that one of the rubber bands on one of the wheels has snapped and come away. It is very fatigued! So back to my email I sent you, can you quote me for the required parts for an M10 instead please including most importantly the wheels for the assembly section.

Cheers

Jason

Hi Jason:

I have worked on hundreds of these Sanyo's and my comments are from what I have experienced and what works the best..

Sony's are another story.

The pinch roller benefits from a light scrub with a rag and isopropyl alcohol as this is usually more than enough.

The refreshing with a needle ,is to do with the tape spool edges which are lightly grooved. These can go a bit smooth and benefit with a needle ,and following the original grooves score then to give these better friction. Think of it light a car's clutch.

I can also supply the correct resistor but would need to know for definite if it IS the M20 as other models use different values and also the part is numbered specifically for each model.

All the thing's I've mentioned will keep that going for quite a good few years.

The capstan shaft usually needs a clean too in the same way as the pinch roller. Removing the whole thing from the vcr is the best way. Many don't want to attempt this so you can try to do it in situ but it is more difficult.

The top and bottom bearing also benefit with a tiny spot of oil,if removing the capstan shaft from the motor.

........Kevin

Hi Kevin,

I have posted you an email direct about purchasing, but you have raised a few more questions for me!

Regarding pinch roller, I was simply going off what I had read that should be changed. I will take your word for it that it probably just needs a clean.

I wasn't sure what you were saying about the idlers and tyres - are you saying its best not to replace the whole assembly as the replacement assemblies are faulty, so its best just to replace the idlers and tyres themselves? I did see you could purchase them seperately, but I would have thought replacement of the whole assembly would be a better option? Again, I will take your word for it - I am a newbie to this repair!

Can you explain more about the resistor upgrade? I assume it would be prudent to perform this upgrade regardless of whether the belt is swapped as is this a known fault/condition with this model? What is the Resistor Number and what Ohm should it be replaced with, and on which board - I think I recall seeing three boards on this device in the schematics - is it the underneath PCB or the on top PCB - I assume its not the power pack PCB?

What are the Tape Spool Edges that you refer to...and refreshed with a needle? What do you mean refresh with a needle?

I thought all Betamax were quite rare now but it seems to have more of a retro following than VHS because of the better quality, and my mate has been after me to take a look at repairing this for a while as he has fond memories of it (and lots of tapes from the closure of a video store from eons back!)

I am sure its the M20 model looking at the pictures on other sites. No idea on the rarity of these things myself though 8)

Thanks for your help so far.

Jason

Jason:

It's quite rare to have to change a pinch roller on a Sanyo beta. They usually just need cleaning lightly with isopropyl alcohol.

As for the idlers the tyres are what you need not the whole idler assemblies as I found the patented ones from Classic parts had a top washer that let go after a few uses causing this and a bigger washer and spring to fly into the machine.

The original idler assemblies(apart from the rubber tyre after time) are bomb proof.

You may also find if replacing these and the reel drive belt that a resistor needs upgrading too for this if the speed of the right spool is still a bit slow during unloading.

There are three belts you will need, one for the cassette insertion, one for the tape loading ring and one for the reel drive.

The tape spool edges also benefit by being refreshed with a needle to give the tyres better grip too for longer.

The reel motor shaft (where it enters the reel motor bearing at the top) also benefits with a tiny spot of oil too.As do both reel spool bearings as well.

Also make sure when removing these you take careful note of the tiny black washers as they are VERY important for the correct height and alignment of the idlers and spools.

Some just remove the top plate from above the reel spools when doing this, i find it better to remove the whole cassette insertion mechanism(six screws) as you then have easy access to the insertion belt part.

You just remove three screws and gently lift off the side cover ,keeping the pulleys still as they need to be aligned. You change the belt and gently put the cover back over and you should have no issues with this later.

I can supply you with the belt's and two tyres at a small cost with postage.

By the way the M20 is quite a rare model,as is the M10 and to a point M30.

Hope this helps......................Kevin

Hi All,

I have been given a betamax to work on repair.

I has worked out from things that its the VTC-M20 model.

The problem is its chewing up tapes. It wont play. FF doesnt seem to do anything, and RW makes a screeching sound before just stopping dead.

I figured it probably needs a few things replacing like the Belts and the Idler assembly, of which I think I have found sources for, but what I can not work out is where to get a pinch roller from, or what the spec of the pinch roller is. I can not see it in the service manual as a part number, and am unsure of the real dimensions of the roller. I think from one google search I stumbled by accident on a reference of 15x19x4 which i assume is a dimension of the roller, but can anyone confirm (15mm across, 19mm high, 9mm center hole?)

More importantly, does anyone know where I can obtain one. Colin99 used to do kits, but they all seem to be sold out now, so the best I have been able to locate so far are at these locations for the belts and idler (pack of 3?!)

http://www.tedss.com/143-0-662T-10350

http://www.donberg.co.uk/descript/1/11151.htm

Anyone got any better sources?

Thanks in advance, Jason

Antoni:

I would look at all capacitors in the PSU areas.

Sony's later model beta's all have some that are suffering now. The same ones usually.

I've never changed any on that model as it's far to bulky and weighs a ton.

I would start there though.

..Kevin

hello, a friend of me has a sl-c7, its power supply brokedown. I changed the full unit from another it worked, and a monts later this "new" power supply also broke down. Do ou know if there is something inside to crash the psu? In both the main fuse blown and final transistors are shorted. I have another power supply (and two C7 full working and now another whithout the psu, and I'm afraid to change again. I know I can/will give him one of the c7, but I'd like to fix it if possible.

Thank you

Hello,

I have three Sanyo VTC9300 machines I'm looking to get rid of. I am based in East Yorksire. I don't want anything for them, but it will be collection only.

The first machine (S/N: 94430758) is mechanically sound; including fast wind. Video and audio reproduction are good. Cosmetically good.

The second machine (S/N: 93418541); threads/ unthreads OK, take up good, fast wind poor. Audio and video reproduction are good. Cosmetically; some scratches.

The third machine (S/N: 80157892); threading/ unthreading poor, take up good, fast wind very poor. Audio and video reproduction are good. Cosmetically; some scratches.

Can anybody please suggest any other forums? I think eBay is the wrong audience?

Cheers,

Rafe.

Hi James:

Never seen or worked on any Sony multi standard Beta but it could be many things.

I would first look to bad caps in the PSU (getting very common now as they age).

Also breaks/cracks to ANY circuit board.

Other than seeing it ,hard to say but I would start there first.

.....Kev

Thanks Kevin!

Hi Kevin can you help. I recently bought a Sony T9ME on ebay. I've put in a pal tape. The timer red led is flashing constantly. And the clock buttons dont work. Neither of the standard lights indicated pal etc and no picture is coming through either on the avs or through the aerial. There is just a very feint line rolling down the black screen. Can you advise as to why no picture ? Please.

Tim:

Here you go it's listed on the BMC200 camcorder page here under technical:

I Can Rebuild These Batteries In Any Quantity.

Please Call 0161 7372974

24 Month Guarantee..

Just Ask For Aaron any time

Manchester UK

Hope this helps..................Kevin

Tim:

I have successfully rebuilt a NP11 with Sanyo re chargeables that I had to get from the US.

The cost would be very high to do this and I don't think that particular battery is made by them anymore, especially since the Panasonic takeover.

The capacity and power is better than those originals which always go bad if left unused for any length of time.

I did see a guy advertising this service in the UK and am trying to remember where I saw this.

Ogie:

The Sony HF100 is notorious for hi-Fi issues. It could either be the hi-Fi heads have had it or an issue on the hi-Fi board.

There is a solution on the repair page on this site for the HF100 for no hi-Fi, IF it is electronic and not through excessive wear.

Rob:

You would be better asking on the V2000 board for your current issues.

Stephen:

I've just sorted out two F30 's that both had different issues.(hall effect and broken plastic on the gear assembly)

It could be numerous things and is hard to say.

If you want me to take a look ,fine but you may have to wait as I have two other machines waiting to be sorted out.

Let me know and we can discuss this further.

.......Kevin

Hi, everyone ^_^

I have betahifi sl-hf100, but no hifi sound when I play a hifi tape, the switch already in auto mode but still no hifi sound, the sound came out only if I turn the switch to a normal position and i believe that is in mono sound, is anyone know the problem is ?

also i have betahifi sl-hf77k, the hifi sound is in good condition, but only the color come with black and white, the head is in good condition, i try to record and play in hf100 is no problem, is this a drum rotation problem or something?

regards, Oqie

Hi everyone,

New to Video restoration, but have acquired a massive collection of N1500/1700, Beta and V2000 tapes and want to transfer many of the contents to digital myself.

Managed to get a Philips VR 2324 very cheap and after a quick internal clean, loads, laces and plays/fwd/rwd cassettes without any issues. However, I am finding there is no video signal on either SCART or UHF modulator out.

Can anyone advise on what to check/common faults?

The video head seems to be somewhat difficult to access but from what I can see, doesn't look in bad shape.

Any ideas?

Rob

I have a Sony Betamax SLF30UB, that I have been trying to fix. I got it from Ebay and it was faulty, it wouldn't load a tape, but instead would just eject constantly. I fixed this and it now loads a tape and winds it around the drum but then there is no drive to the tape, so whilst the drum spins the tape does not play, fast forward or rewind. I have tried cleaning the sensors but it still has the same problem. I know the tape can have drive because I have managed to get them to work albeit briefly. Does anyone have any ideas on where I should look next to fix it? Or does anyone fix these in the UK who would be interested in fixing it?

Thanks