Hi Betafans,

As I was restoring my beloved SL-C9ES, the power supply decided to put a nice 12V on the 5V line.

This let the smoke out of the System Control Board CPU IC602 and possibly others.

So now I am looking for a replacement System control board SS-11. Would make me really happy to find one as I intend to keep this VCR forever...

Mendel

Mendel,

Just sent you an email for that SS11 board you need.

All the best,

Gabriel

Hello.

My first post here, although been visiting for a while.

I've got a Sony C7 which I've retrieved from long term storage. I wasn't expecting it would still work, so picked up a Sanyo VTC-5150 as well.

The Sony powered up OK after a 10 year+ break. So presumably the power supply capacitors are OK. The timer buttons which did work have given up. The capstain or drum speed was a bit erratic, and the tape take up was a bit sluggish. I've replaced the capacitors on the AS3 board and the drum and capstain seem to be OK now. The belt had stretched for the take up drive. I've had some success boiling this to return it to its original shape. Is there a source for replacement C7 belts?

Playback isn't too bad now. Audio seems a bit choppy but the right speed. The picture is OK but for a thin vertical bar on the right hand edge where there seems to be no colour. The same tape is OK on the VTC-5150. Any suggestions on these faults?

The Sanyo VTC-5150 I've replaced the two belts and the idler assembly. Rewind of an L750 tape is around 4 and a half minutes now. Playback isn't bad but I feel that the Sony C7 had a better picture. I think it still needs some more work. I see there's a modification to pull the tape back in faster on eject, which I think this needs as you can hear the spinning head touching loose tape while unlacing. It's also one of the VTC-5150s that has the same rewind lace up bug as the VTC-5000.

Are there any components like the servo capacitors on the Sony C7 that are classed as routine replacements for the Sanyo VTC-5150 and should be changed during any recommissioning?

I'd like to get one or both machines working at their best.

Thanks

Hi all betafans out there;

I saw on the net that the 1.2v Nickel Cadium storgae battery in the SL-HF950 (top tuner board) has a tendency to leak over time and often destroy the boards in these units beyond easy repair. Basically, often just a accident waiting to happen!

So I was wondering if it would be a good idea to disable the battery and remove it completely from the machine? I would think the battery is only used as backup for the display, timer, clock etc when the power got turned off? I dont see the need to have these "timebombs" in these machines as they only get older and older, and who uses the tuners in these units today anyway? And the clock can allways be set manually if the power goes off!

Has anyone on this site any experience with the Nicd battery in the SL-HF950 and could therefore elabotate on my ponderings?

Sincerely;

SIG SIG

Dear Betaphiles,

A quick question that some Sanyo expert might find easy: Patient is a VTC5000 in really good condition. Changed all the belts, cleaned the tape path, some capacitors at the PSU, reel motor brushes contact cleaned and all the usual maintenance you can do on these machines. Tape transport is OK after the mod of changing the zener diode (thanks to Colin99 webpage for the info).

Picture is good and stable but after an hour or so on playback, the machine shuts down by itself and after that you cannot make it work again unless you press Stop, which at this point makes a nice tape slack loop while removing it (unthreading is OK, but the reel motor no longer spins). When this happens, I realize that the heatsink attached to the reel motor driver IC is considerably hot!

Could be this fault be developed by the modification of the diode and hence more stress to that IC? I performed this due to poor reel torque at unthreading. May I undo the mod?

Thanks in advance for any insight on this.

Sig Sig,

I have removed that battery on some HF950s with no problems at all. It is just for clock and keeping tuner memory so nothing critical.

Hi Gabriel

Thank you for the confirmation! The memory functions in my SL-HF950s do not even work anymore, as when I disconnect and then reconnect them straight away to the mains the correct set clock goes blinking 00:00! But it surprised me that the memory function in the SL-HF100 that is just as old, still works? That is, the clock is still correctly set after the same procedure. Does the SL-HF100 have another clock/battery system or what?

But I still wonder why some of these Nicd batteries in some betamax units do leak, but in most others like my units after nearly 30 years show no sign of leaking? Are the NiCD batteries ticking time bombs or not? I guess I will have to wait and see or better yet just remove them? TO BE OR NOT TO BE THAT IS THE QUESTION! ;)

SIG SIG

Sig Sig,

I have the impression that this "loss of memory" effect can be due to major differences on the architecture of both machines. The HF100 is strongly based on the 711B chassis the SL-C30 belongs, having the latter kinda supercap on the display board for clock keeping in the event of short mains interruptions. The time the VCR was able to handle a blackout was specified at three minutes (from user manual).

However this is just a guess. Maybe a thorough look to the schematics could throw some light into this.

Kind regards,

Gabriel

Gabriel

There you have it, supercap vs NiCD battery, thanks! Well now I only have to ponder and wonder about leakage in the SL-HF950s? I think Ill go and read some more Shakespeare now!

SIG SIG

Hi Gabriel and Clive:

Gabriel: There is a couple o things you can try. Will be back later today.

Clive: Will message you later with some helpful tips for your VTC 5150.

Been a bit busy as of late.

...Kev

Gabriel;

In regards to your Sanyo VTC 5000 reel motor issues.

I have a feeling it's the actual motor that is causing your current problem.

I have seen this a couple of times with a MINT vtc 5000mk11 and another vtc 5000.

You mention you have done the unthreading upgrade by changing out the zener diode to a 3v3 (with black print the original has green print).Have you also changed the R49 fusible resistor from 2.2 ohms to 1.0 ohms on the same board inside the heat shielding?

There is also a reel torque upgrade you can make to R3054 to 120ohm.

You have cleaned the brush contacts and checked the commutator for wear (as some motors seem to put abnormal pressure to the brush area and cause premature wear to some no doubt from manufacture. You will see this from the deep grooves to this area on some. If bad enough it will cause flat spots and the motor will have to be spun up by hand if reaching this area.

One other area to check that could be causing your random reel motor stopping is the photo sensor under the right spool (for the tape counter) isn't dirty with fluff or other bit's.

Also the tape down insertion switch ,you can get too from the base. It has that see through plastic protector over it.Check those contacts are clean too.

If none of these things work then you will more than likely have a bad motor.

A word of warning if attempting these reel motor 'mod's on the near identical VTC 5150.

There were two servo boards made. The early one was fine with the mod's the later one was not. The early board was a dark green print to one side and a caramel colour to the other. The later ones were a lighter gold colour and a metallic green to the other side. The only mod to not affect anything ,if you have the poor tape take up on activating stop is the zener diode one. I wouldn't advise doing the other two I mentioned as this will cause the 'reverse play 'to stop working by taking out a resistor elsewhere. It can also cause the capstan motor to stop working too.

Hope this helps....................Kev

Thanks a lot Kevin,

Actually, I was doing some tests this weekend, being the motor itself the one to blame nearly for sure.

Photo sensor fault: discarded for now as I cheated the machine with my hands and pressing play without a tape. No issues in a whole afternoon.

Once I insert a tape and play it, the heatsink gets really hot within minutes. I think I will change it with a donor and see the result.

Regarding the mods, I also changed the resistor from 2,2 to 1 ohm. Also swapped the diode from 3V3 to 2V7 (original is 2V4) but no improvement.

I think I will have the chance to fiddle this machine again in a couple weeks due to work shifts. But I think this would be sorted.

Again, many thanks for your detailed explanation.

Regards,

Gabriel

Dear Betaphiles,

A quick observation I recently made about the SL-800ME : have you ever realized it seems to be two variants of them? One regular Beta and the other being SuperBeta. Just by looking at Google images you can spot both!

Any clue on this? Differences on markets/countries/year of manufacturing?

Regards,

Gabriel

Pd: an example of a SuperBeta specimen:

https://amp.kaskus.co.id/product/5a6bed2b56e6afd60f8b457c/sony-betamax-vcr-sl-800me

Hi all.

I've recently acquired a Sanyo vtc-nx100 which has a problem, I think, in the power supply.

The clock and standby light work, but the rest of the vcr is dead. No cassette loading, no reel motor spin on power on etc.

Does anyone have an idea of where to check or what to check on the psu please?

Regards

Rich.

Rich:

Whilst I've never come across that issue with the VTC NX100 myself. I did have one where it wouldn't go from ON to STANDBY.

I would go over ALL capacitors on the PSU, especially the ones near the heat shielding. The syscon board is also joined to the PSU on this one. It could be a failed component there.

As a last resort check the STK7621 IC.

Also the front tape control circuit board check for cracks there as I've received in the past three that were badly packaged and this area took the brunt ,with no obvious outward signs to the front panel.

Let us know what you find.

Good luck.................Kev

Hi Kev

Many thanks for the reply.

I've gone over the power board and noticed an electrolytic cap has been replaced, I've also re-flowed the solder on the big black IC thing but still no luck.

I'm getting a reconditioned psu and attached front button function pcb for it being sent from overseas, so I'll fit that and then examine the original power board when I've removed it. Also I need to change the reel motor, but whoever worked on it before has made a total pigs ear of the two reel motor screws, so I'm gonna have to drill the tops off.

Thanks again. I'll let you know the outcome.

Rich

Rich:

The reel motor screw 'issue' I've seen a few times too. These are tightened with a torque screwdriver and require the EXACT fit bit ,otherwise the screw heads get destroyed and, as you've found ,drilling them out is the only option.

If the reel motor has very worn brush contacts ,this could be down to high mileage ,but cold also be one where these contacts had a tad too much pressure and advanced wear, that I mentioned elsewhere.

I know on the couple of VTC M40 's I've received with replaced reel motors (usually the wrong slightly bigger one from the 53/400,5000,5150,6500) and the Hi-Fi(but not picture) heads are showing extreme wear.

I've seen a few NX100 's with head wear too (Which is unusual for a Sanyo) ,but then we don't know ,if or how many cleaning tapes or really poor quality ones were used inside them. I wouldn't have thought the quality of this head disc was any less then the one for the (M10,20,5000,5150,6500),even though it did have a different part number.

Back tension too is important and can limit head tip life if over spec.

Also self cleaning is not recommended by me unless the owner really knows what they are doing. I've seen some really top end beta's (Sony HF100 and SLHF950 ) ruined by this act and those models are not easy to find and more expensive to replace.

...Kev

Thank you very much for that info Kev, it's much appreciated.

The vcr looks to be in good order apart from the power supply problem and reel motor screws being buggered.

I needed to source a top idler for it too as the previous owner had removed the original and fitted another bottom idler upside down. D'oh. I need to source a replacement front tuner door too as it's missing from mine.

Thanks again, I'll keep you up to date with the repair.

Rich.

Rich

Tell me about it!!

I've seen my fair share of owner 'calamities' when trying to 'resolve issues'.

Not too mention the amount of factory screws put in the wrong holes or missed out altogether.

Sometimes it's best to leave to those who know what's what and have the experience , but I do understand those wanting to 'have a go'.Just don't complain when other things need doing because of their intervention.

Please do keep me posted.

......Kev

Gabriel,

I just read you posting on a "super beta" version of the SL800ME being available.

As you are probably aware, the multi-system versions were mainly sold in the middle east.

I don't really know if such a thing exists but the link only seems to show a normal black 800ME.

I have only seen three machines. Two were black and one gold in colour. (They may have come in other colours as well.)

The only thing I noticed special was that the front cover of the black versions came in a solid black plastic and also a smokey grey see through style.

regards Noel

Dear Noel,

Yes, I am aware those machines were sold in the MiddleEast region. They are really hard to find and beautiful machines.

I recall having one of those SL-800 SuperBeta units among my machines (not much time to play with them lately). I will double check it is that series and eventually post a picture of it. It might also be useful for this webpage gallery (I would be proud of being able to contribute to such thing).

All the best,

Gabriel