I've found the culprit of my earlier post regarding the SLHF100UB.

It was the torque pot. It seemed to be set a bit too high.

Now I have perfect recordings again 😎

Rich.

Hi all.

Does anyone know the correct part number for the reel motor in a Sanyo VTC-NX100 please? The defective motor in mine looks like it's been previously replaced and the part number on that is V-10800D.

Just wondering if that IS actually the correct number of motor for this model.

Thank you.

Rich.

Rich

Part no is V01100B.

You have the slightly bigger motor for the 6500,53/400,5000,5150 fitted.

I've seen that a few times too. Usually on a Sanyo M40 with high mileage.

They do work OK but are slightly bigger for those later 'M' and NX series models.

I prefer to keep things as intended.

..Kev

Hi Kev

Many thanks for that. Now is the task of finding the correct replacement😱

Thanks again

Rich.

Hi all SL-HF950 experts out there.

I have been trying to fix a SL-HF950 that has a faulty FR-20 board. I know this as I swapped the FR-20 board from one of my working 950 units to it and the faulty 950 worked after that! So does anyone have or know of a spare FR-20 board I can buy?

Best would be to fix the the FR-20 board but the fault with it is quite strange as all of the resistors, diodes, transistors etc seem to measure OK as does the connectivity to, from and on the FR-20 board. The 44pin chip 7508HG-536 however did not measure right so I got a replacement from ebay 7508HG-536 but that had 90% of the same reading errors when in place on the board? The 16 pin chip SN74LS138N also measures strange but I think that is mostly because of its interaction with the 44pin chip? The D22 still led on the board is continuously on but all else on the FR-20 board is basically dead (and therefore most of the rest of the 950 unit)? So go figure????

Well any suggested solutions or FR-20 replacement suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all,

I've got a problem with my SL-HF950 and would like some advice please.

I noticed on the SS-50 board that there were those horrible black sticky pads that had gone hard, so I removed them carefully but noticed when I removed one in particular that I'd managed to break a solder point from a modification to a transistor soldered to another transistor. Now the VCR wont finish the tape loading cycle, whereas before I removed the black pads it was fine. I couldn't make out if the centre leg of the broken solder joint was soldered to the centre leg of the transistor installed in the board. I connected the centre legs together but it still doesn't finish the loading cycle. I also had to replace a link and resistor on the board because the black pads had actually corroded them!

A friend of mine had a look in the service manual and couldn't find any information on those darn modifications. So I now have a useless VCR.

Here's a video of the problem https://youtu.be/cWlhAaf9xWc

If anyone has info on how to sort this problem, or indeed an entire working board for sale please let me know.

Regards

Rich.

Hi Rich:

I often wonder whether Sony realised just how much grief their sticky pads material and glue they utilised on these beta decks would cause us enthusiasts many years down the line!!!!!

Would need to see a picture of the area you are talking about as I have four here I could look at.

.Kevin

Hi Kev,

Thanks for the reply. I've just emailed you some photos of it.

Also, I've managed to track down the correct motor for that Sanyo NX vcr. All working again now but I'll need to get hold of the white plastic pulley which sits between the upper and lower friction drive idlers as the previous owner mangled it up a bit.

Thanks again,

Rich.

Hi all you 950 patrons out there;

I see there dones not seem to be any spare FR-20 boards lying around out there in betaland these days, as I thought! So back to trying to fix my faulty FR-20 board. I would just like to ask all experienced 950 patrons out there one question;

What are the most common faults you have encountered/heard of with the FR-20 board?

I would think cleaning the switches/push buttons along with loose/broken solder joint would be on top of the list. But you can exclude those points as Ive been there/done that! So I hope your inputs can help me look at something that Ive not thought of yet regarding the "diabolic fault" with my faulty FR-20 board?

SIG SIG

"FORGET ABOUT IT DAVE", until I have found a working FR-20 board!

Hi all,

Just a really quick question.

I need to change both the eject belt and loading belt in my C7, but I've never changed them in a C7 before. Do I have to remove the loading ring to change them?

Cheers

Rich.

Rich

I've worked on a few C6 's and one C7 and I have never had to remove the loading ring (thank god) to change any belt.

.Kev

Hi Kev,

There must be a knack to it as I can't see how to replace those belts. Haha, such a beast of a VCR, I can see why they weren't particularly reliable.

Cheers

Rich.

I changed the loading ring belt on a C7, and couldn't see an easy way of doing it without removing the loading ring to gain access to the belt that drives the take up spool for unlacing.

Back to my HF-100. I tried a CV01 trimmer from a scrap SL-C20 with no improvement. So obtained a new replacement 20pf trimmer. Again no colour on playback.

Recordings made on other machines play back in black and white. Recordings the HF-100 makes play back black and white on the HF-100 and also black and white on another machines.

I've got a second HF-100,in very poor cosmetic condition, but it does play in colour. If I fit the YC-28 board to it the fault goes with it, so I think that rules out the heads. Something on the YC28 board is killing the colour. The two machines are a slightly different revisions -11 and -12 so some parts seem slightly different.

Hi Clive,

Thanks. I've managed to get hold of the service manual today, so I'll have a look tomorrow to see how the darn loading ring comes out.

Thanks again

Rich.

Hello.

I just got two different of betamax VCR

Toshiba v-9100

Fisher Betacord VBS-7500

Both seems to start up but both of the recorders wont accept the cassettes inside at all.

I forced Fisher betacord to open its cassette nest and i put the tape in, but nothing happened.

So are the recorders totally broken not worth of spend time and energy, or is there some

common simple fix to solve thath kindof broblem???

Here is pictures of the recorders

https://www.tori.fi/vi/59127680.html

If theres someone needing those models, contact me.

And allso if someone is sellin 100% working betamax VCR with deasent price please make me an offer.

[email protected]

The saga of the troublesome C7 continues....

I managed to change all of the belts (the loading ring had to be lifted by removing two of the three white round plastic ring rollers), idlers, rewind kit and fast forward kit with genuine Sony replacements and now the transport is working spot on, but now when the tape is 3/4 of the way through playing the VCR will just shut itself off. It sometimes shuts off when fast forwarding a tape to the end too. Then it all locks up and no button is responsible until I put it into standby and power back on. Could this be the torque is too high? If so, how do I adjust it, is there a torque pot somewhere? Up until the last 3/4 of the tape the forward picture search is clear but after it shuts itself off the picture search is not clear at all.

Also a pre-existing problem with the sound is still present. Pre recorded tapes and tapes made on another VCR have very good clear sound albeit with some noticeable hiss, but tapes recorded on this VCR are incredibly muffled with his very noticeable. I've thoroughly cleaned the audio head but still no improvement. Is this a symptom of a badly worn head, or could it be adjusted to be more perpendicular to the tape?

Other than those problem, everything else works and the picture quality is superb.

Thanks all.

Rich.

Has anyone got an SY-11 board for the later production run of C7 for sale please? I need the type with the brown wire soldered to the back of the board and modifications to the rear of the board also. Board number ending in 17. I tried a board from an earlier C7 with the part number ending in 14 but it wasnt compatible.

Many thanks

Rich.

Hi Rich,

I thought I might have an SY-11 let over. Checked and found an SY-15 from an SL-C5,, and then found an SY-11

It's 1-601-819-17, and has a brown wire that looks very bodged on the back of Q007 going to the camera connector.

I've fixed my last C7, well apart from the clock day LEDs which take half and hour to warm up before it only shows a single day and not three. So you're welcome to this SY-11 board.

Clive

Hi Clive.

That's absolutely marvelous. Thank you so much. If you could send me an email letting me know the price etc that'd be great.

Those mods on the rear do look bodged don't they. Haha.

Best wishes

Rich.