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Saturday 28th April 2018
7:22 pm U.K.
My apologies - been distracted on my Sony SuperBeta player issue. Will get back to it soon.
You may have a point regarding Sony vs Sanyo. Whilst I really like the Sony picture quality (in later front-loader models), the Sanyos are so much more satisfying to work on. Given my frustration with the SuperBeta player I have been struggling with, I turned my attention to a Sanyo VTC-M30 that was lying around on my "spares shelf". Stripped it down, cleaned everything, re-greased/oiled, replaced belts and (parts of) the idler and surprise-surprise a lovely working machine. Quite impressed with the video quality too.
A couple of minor queries:
- The tape remain feature. On this machine, the LEDs on each side are constantly "circling" - is this correct? I read on here that the sensor for this can often get gunged-up. Where is this sensor?
- The fwd/rwd motors seem a little underpowered. Is there any equivalent of the 5000 mod to give the motors a little more torque?
Monday 30th April 2018
2:58 pm U.K.
I didn't know you had an m30 ?
Yes I agree whilst not as advanced as the C9 it was a very stylish machine offering a few features never to be seen again on their UK models.
As for your queries..
The tape remainder indicator ,I've never seen one that doesn't do it's job.
From what I can remember if the tape is blank I believe it just circles around.
I may be wrong.
The sensor is located underneath the left spool.
If it does this with recorded tapes then it could also be the IC that controls this on the bottom board is faulty. The IC part number is LM6402H and the position is IC3004.
As for the torque mod. Yes I do this on all the 'M' series models as like the VTC 5000 /5150 they need a bit more power after time as this motor ages. You notice this failing mainly when pressing stop.
The resistor is on the bottom bard on the left under a metal shield and is number R3096 (R96) and you go from 560ohm (original) to 100ohm.You will also find it difficult to source the original 1/6w size but 1/4w will work just as good only slightly bigger in size.
The NX100 doesn't seem to suffer with this issue.
Also a tiny drop of suitable oil to the top of the motor bearing helps as well as these machines have been sitting around for long periods of time.
I also told you about refreshing those tape spool edge grooves with a needle ONLY. Also the centre pulley ones too.
If they are all new then this will be OK.
What is the still frame like on yours. I've seen a few with that third head being worn more then the normal two. Obviously through wear.
Keep us posted...................Kev
Tuesday 1st May 2018
8:53 pm U.K.
One of the advantages of the Betamax videos is that the luminance is free of chroma signal
I have a VHS of the brand JVC, the luminance signal has some of the 650Khz from the chroma signal and is very visible in colour bars
I test this by removing the chroma in reproduction
Thursday 3rd May 2018
5:36 pm U.K.
Yes, I've had the M30 a little while. Another one of those "buy these tapes and you can have this non-working player thrown in".
Just had another look today at it. Noticed that 3 capacitors in the power board were bad. Two were high ESR and another was leaking. Replaced them and guess what - the tape-remaining gadget now works. I wasn't expecting that. It's possible that it also fixed the "clock set" function as I think this didn't seem to work last time either.
Also did the reel torque mod you mentioned. The unlace was actually fine, but was struggling a little (I thought) on wind/rewind. Swapping R96 from 560ohm to 100ohm seems to have improved things.
Will try and make a YouTube video of it as it seems like quite a rare machine. Just left it playing for 3 hours and everything fine. Possible that the tracking isn't completely aligned, but will look at that another day.
The "still pause" is absolutely perfect BTW - I guess that 3rd head hasn't had much wear. Overall very pleased with the unit.
The only thing I have noticed is the heat-sink in the power board does run quite hot - is that normal?
Thursday 3rd May 2018
8:39 pm U.K.
I forgot to mention about the caps. I've just serviced one and those caps had wiped out the clock/timer IC. Luckily I had a spares one for that.
Yes it can run a bit hot. I've had an M10 that did that and to be safe I changed over the mains transformer and it doesn't get quite as hot. If the transformer isn't really hot just the heat shielding you should be fine.
The other thing with the M30/40 is those tracking pot's can sometimes come loose internally and you have to glue them back together. Otherwise you get a offset tracking result.
One way to be sure they are fine is turn it left and right and during picture search mode, the three or four noise bars should rise and fall exactly as you turn the tracking. If they don't then it will need removing and sorting.
If those heads are great (as both mine are ) then you have a good find there. Worth keeping hold of.
Sunday 6th May 2018
7:06 am U.K.
I Have the Sony SL-F30 but record in B/W
I put in the input a colour bars image
In the IC006 in the pin 39 appears de chroma reduced in frequency
After the chroma pass to the Q032
In the RV008 I put the oscilloscope and only exist DC
When I pulse the Tuner / AV appears the chroma 1 second after dissapear and the DC up a few volts
The DC arrive from R341 (220 ohms) to the emiter of Q032
When I remove the R341 the chroma appears in the RV008 with DC and in C067 without DC
In the schema appears 6.1 volts in the emiter but I have less when the R341 is connected
This is the schema: https://printable-classific.000webhostapp.com/Schema.GIF
I don't understand why put 6,1 volts to the emiter?
Monday 7th May 2018
9:11 am U.K.
I have an unused ACE head assembly for SL-C40 is anyone is interested (A-6761-064-A) this was initially ordered for another machine which sadly got damaged by courier and proved too far gone to repair, so can sell this part on. If I remember correctly, it won't go in C30 so not worth me keeping in stock for spares.
If interested, send me an email.
Tuesday 8th May 2018
3:14 pm U.K.
Hi all. I just purchased a Sony SL8000 Betamax in excellent cosmetic condition with user manual and remote, no dust cover. It power up and I have set the time. The eject button works and it will accept a tape, but no other key works (play, FF, RW). I saw that you can still buy belt kits for this model on ebay. Is it likely to be a belt issue and how easy are these to fit? Has anyone got a service manual I can have a copy of please? Any help appreciated.
Saturday 12th May 2018
9:27 am U.K.
We foolishly transported our wonderfully functional Super Betamax SL-HF950ES without placing the transit screws - now it's completely dead!
Any idea where the most likely fault is & what we can do?
Saturday 12th May 2018
12:46 pm U.K.
The transport screws protect the plastic tray slides from being damaged during transit.
That fault when it happens means that you can't eject or load a tape. It is mechanical damage and you can cut away the damaged plastic and repair the broken section by fabricating a right angle metal replacement and the point of damage and screw it into the centre metal chassis frame. I use cut down aluminum extrusions to solve this problem.
Completely dead sounds more like power supply. Commonly in time the HF950 power supply fails.
As the power supply has two parts, an AC to DC 12V going into a DC to DC inverter requiring an input of 12V DC at up to 4Amps and the first section usually fails you can.
1/ Have the original supply repaired. (new electrolytic capacitors, transistors and diodes as required) OR
2/ Just supply an external 12V DC source to the machine OR
2/ Obtain a modern and more efficient 12V AC/DC plug pack and install the circuit in the machine requiring change of the input lead to add an earth connection to the case. (otherwise the case can float at half mains voltage because of the action of the EMC filter capacitors.)
regards Noel (Betaheaven.com)
Sunday 13th May 2018
8:29 am U.K.
At 3/ below I should have said obtain a 240V AC to 12V DC @ 4 Amp power supply
Sunday 13th May 2018
1:56 pm U.K.
The Sony slhf950 is notorious for a failing PSU IF the capacitors are not checked and changed out.
I have now repaired around four as they wipe out a fusible resistor and two transistors if left long enough like this.
As noel has stated you can upgrade to another system but I have successfully repaired them.
I suppose the hotter the country (yes Australia is pretty hot) the more common the failings over shorter periods of time.
The broken plastic rail I've repaired too but if the original broken piece is included it makes this easier. You have to re enforce that are though so it doesn't get over stressed with that spring loaded roller.
Also the mode switch for the tray lifter mechanism is know to fall off. You can repair and re enforce that too.
I have two fantastic shape 950 's here currently being refurbished and strengthened that I will be offering when completed. Both with very light use and great heads, complete with remotes and manuals too.
Where abouts are you located?
Sunday 13th May 2018
10:43 pm U.K.
Good point about using the original broken plastic rail if t is still there. All the machines I have had to repair had that missing so I had the neaten up the break to a square section that I could replace whilst reinforcing the remaining plastics edge.
I think the hotter climate in the North of Australia affects both power supply life and plastic aging as the plastic gets brittle.
I have also had a few machines suffer additional damage to the trays drive gear such that is breaks and spins on the shaft. So fixing this issue is also required in some cases.
I also have a number of refurbished SLHF950s I should release back into general use plus many of the original remotes plus the VHF jog shuttle remotes with VCR1 selection which also work well with the SLHF950 including for APS functions.
Friday 18th May 2018
11:36 pm U.K.
hi to noel and kevin its been a long while since i last posted and a lot has happened i lost my flat due to problems with my old landlord and have now got a housing assoccitiation my C9s a 950s have been stored I recently got another C9 the display works but I took the step of opening up the DC-DC convertor and the caps look fairly good but have bought replacement 105c types,it has another problem in that it worked for say 15 mins and now the reels are not rotating either ff/rew or play i looked on list and it says caps on SS11 board can you having repaired faults like this also tell me which ones to check and I also would be greatful for which caps to check in the 950 power supply I did rebuild one many years ago and have now got 4 .I know which is the rebuilt machine but want to go down the route of changing caps on the others to prevent failure I still use both a 950 and a C9 on a very regular basis and the C9 which i rebuilt the DC is still working fine I also managed to locate 2 brand new head discs for a C9 but one machine I bought from another from this sight did need a new head disc although I was aware of that when I bought it a having the correct alignment jigs and test tapes I fitted it very carefully I am also looking for 2 packs of belt kits for a C7 , and noel the jog shuttle remote I got from you works great i am looking for a good remote a C9 and 950 maybe you can help all postgage costs met of course regards David Grant
Saturday 19th May 2018
12:28 pm U.K.
At the end of your message do you mean you want remotes or machines?
Sunday 20th May 2018
8:51 pm U.K.
hello noel its a remote i would like a decent C9 one ,I maybe going to see a lady who has a 950 it was on ebay for £269.but did not get any bids she said there is no picture on normal speed but there is on still frame I have asked to view and will take a tape to make test recording the people she got it from say its only been used to record audio I did explain that head wear can occur just because the tapes in touch with the head all the time be she thinks because it not been recording a picture that they are not worn so a test should reveal plus I will try cleaning to demonstrate this I still have a new 950 head disc but fitted it to a 950 that seems to have problems in the head amp switching area but if I can get it for a reasonable price I could repair it if the heads are bad by fitting the complete drum from my one I have 4, 950s ,3 work really well but I need to remove the sled and do the switch so that the chattering gears get sorted .I do use the tuner input because my sky hd box supplys a rf feed and aks for a freeview signal so the tuner on mine still gets used i just link every thing like in a so called daisy chain effect I don"t know if you have the shy Q syystem in Aus but thats my next thing I have also since I last messaged you restored a dynatron CTV 28 ,I have good unused brand new tube for it as a spare the one fitted tests good on my tube tester and the pictures very good I also had another cabinet which I am changing whereas if removing top off mine and extending it because another model had this and its 8 inches taller but the top opens for a space for a vcr to be added back then they used phillips n1500 or n1700 choice was for the buyer back in 1976 mine will have a hinged lid and hinge the front so either a C9 or 950 can be used but its another project regards David Grant.
Monday 21st May 2018
9:47 am U.K.
Good to see you back.
You are of course referring to the one currently on E-Bay?
Yes I wouldn't bid as I have no way of testing it. It could be a worn control head. Or it's just dirty and god forbid worn heads!
I always ask the seller too now on high end esoteric machines before I bid. There are certain tests they can do to ensure those heads are in great shape. Seeing as most want over the odds for a untested or faulty machine. Seeing that way too much now.
Also on a lighter note David.............Can you try paragraphing your comments with punctuation. It's quite overwhelming trying to make out your requests as it's all jumbled together. I'm sure I'm not alone with that.
Good luck with it...................Kevin
Monday 21st May 2018
1:49 pm U.K.
I have a few decent looking C9 remotes. I could send you pictures if you email me. I have the same email address as before or you can get it from my website.
I am fixing an SLHF950 currently and discovered a brand new fault. (To me at least)
At first it was just a replacement motor need because the rear bearing had collapsed. Whe I changed that it was still playing up and not sensing end points of travel.
In the position sensor switch of the tray motor drive, the switch wiper contact had fallen off just like they do in the Sanyo M40 and M50 tracking controls. The black plastic locating pins get brittle and break.
Fortunately its an easy fix if you drill two 1mm hole and loop some tinned copper wire to hold the wiper back in place. Will have to document that and send it with pictures to the Martin from Palsite.
Monday 21st May 2018
2:26 pm U.K.
I've had to sort two out like that already. When they fall off or loose contact the hatch lifts up and keeps clacking until it goes down on it's own.
I re glued them back and then hot melted a plastic shim to go over the whole attached part area to ensure it never happens again.
This with the broken sled track is going to get more common over time ,so I always check both those areas out now too.
Thanks for the update though :)
Tuesday 22nd May 2018
2:24 am U.K.
For your information the tape load motor from the SLV777 or SLV815 VHS machines of that era (late 1980s) can be used as a replacement for the SLHF950 tray motors. Slightly bigger mounting screws so mount holes need to be wider but the plastic drive gear on the shaft and motor dimensions are otherwise the same. Motor tags are 90 degrees off but can be bent to suit. The motor magnetic shield can be swapped over as well. (same motor case diameters)