Thanks a lot Kevin,

Actually, I was doing some tests this weekend, being the motor itself the one to blame nearly for sure.

Photo sensor fault: discarded for now as I cheated the machine with my hands and pressing play without a tape. No issues in a whole afternoon.

Once I insert a tape and play it, the heatsink gets really hot within minutes. I think I will change it with a donor and see the result.

Regarding the mods, I also changed the resistor from 2,2 to 1 ohm. Also swapped the diode from 3V3 to 2V7 (original is 2V4) but no improvement.

I think I will have the chance to fiddle this machine again in a couple weeks due to work shifts. But I think this would be sorted.

Again, many thanks for your detailed explanation.

Regards,

Gabriel

Dear Betaphiles,

A quick observation I recently made about the SL-800ME : have you ever realized it seems to be two variants of them? One regular Beta and the other being SuperBeta. Just by looking at Google images you can spot both!

Any clue on this? Differences on markets/countries/year of manufacturing?

Regards,

Gabriel

Pd: an example of a SuperBeta specimen:

https://amp.kaskus.co.id/product/5a6bed2b56e6afd60f8b457c/sony-betamax-vcr-sl-800me

Hi all.

I've recently acquired a Sanyo vtc-nx100 which has a problem, I think, in the power supply.

The clock and standby light work, but the rest of the vcr is dead. No cassette loading, no reel motor spin on power on etc.

Does anyone have an idea of where to check or what to check on the psu please?

Regards

Rich.

Rich:

Whilst I've never come across that issue with the VTC NX100 myself. I did have one where it wouldn't go from ON to STANDBY.

I would go over ALL capacitors on the PSU, especially the ones near the heat shielding. The syscon board is also joined to the PSU on this one. It could be a failed component there.

As a last resort check the STK7621 IC.

Also the front tape control circuit board check for cracks there as I've received in the past three that were badly packaged and this area took the brunt ,with no obvious outward signs to the front panel.

Let us know what you find.

Good luck.................Kev

Hi Kev

Many thanks for the reply.

I've gone over the power board and noticed an electrolytic cap has been replaced, I've also re-flowed the solder on the big black IC thing but still no luck.

I'm getting a reconditioned psu and attached front button function pcb for it being sent from overseas, so I'll fit that and then examine the original power board when I've removed it. Also I need to change the reel motor, but whoever worked on it before has made a total pigs ear of the two reel motor screws, so I'm gonna have to drill the tops off.

Thanks again. I'll let you know the outcome.

Rich

Rich:

The reel motor screw 'issue' I've seen a few times too. These are tightened with a torque screwdriver and require the EXACT fit bit ,otherwise the screw heads get destroyed and, as you've found ,drilling them out is the only option.

If the reel motor has very worn brush contacts ,this could be down to high mileage ,but cold also be one where these contacts had a tad too much pressure and advanced wear, that I mentioned elsewhere.

I know on the couple of VTC M40 's I've received with replaced reel motors (usually the wrong slightly bigger one from the 53/400,5000,5150,6500) and the Hi-Fi(but not picture) heads are showing extreme wear.

I've seen a few NX100 's with head wear too (Which is unusual for a Sanyo) ,but then we don't know ,if or how many cleaning tapes or really poor quality ones were used inside them. I wouldn't have thought the quality of this head disc was any less then the one for the (M10,20,5000,5150,6500),even though it did have a different part number.

Back tension too is important and can limit head tip life if over spec.

Also self cleaning is not recommended by me unless the owner really knows what they are doing. I've seen some really top end beta's (Sony HF100 and SLHF950 ) ruined by this act and those models are not easy to find and more expensive to replace.

...Kev

Thank you very much for that info Kev, it's much appreciated.

The vcr looks to be in good order apart from the power supply problem and reel motor screws being buggered.

I needed to source a top idler for it too as the previous owner had removed the original and fitted another bottom idler upside down. D'oh. I need to source a replacement front tuner door too as it's missing from mine.

Thanks again, I'll keep you up to date with the repair.

Rich.

Rich

Tell me about it!!

I've seen my fair share of owner 'calamities' when trying to 'resolve issues'.

Not too mention the amount of factory screws put in the wrong holes or missed out altogether.

Sometimes it's best to leave to those who know what's what and have the experience , but I do understand those wanting to 'have a go'.Just don't complain when other things need doing because of their intervention.

Please do keep me posted.

......Kev

Gabriel,

I just read you posting on a "super beta" version of the SL800ME being available.

As you are probably aware, the multi-system versions were mainly sold in the middle east.

I don't really know if such a thing exists but the link only seems to show a normal black 800ME.

I have only seen three machines. Two were black and one gold in colour. (They may have come in other colours as well.)

The only thing I noticed special was that the front cover of the black versions came in a solid black plastic and also a smokey grey see through style.

regards Noel

Dear Noel,

Yes, I am aware those machines were sold in the MiddleEast region. They are really hard to find and beautiful machines.

I recall having one of those SL-800 SuperBeta units among my machines (not much time to play with them lately). I will double check it is that series and eventually post a picture of it. It might also be useful for this webpage gallery (I would be proud of being able to contribute to such thing).

All the best,

Gabriel

Hello everyone.

Been renovating a couple of Sony HF950 machines over the past few months. One was very poorly, but all working now, thanks to Kev and Noel.

One question - is there a way of adjusting the drop-out compensator sensitivity on these beasts? I was hoping for a pot but the service manual does not seem to highlight one. Is this hardwired inside YV40.IC401 ? The picture is great on the best condition tapes, but I need to transfer some less-great tapes and the dropouts are significantly more noticeable than say a HF100.

Any tips?

Rob

ahh. just found it RV010 on YC40

(DOC now set more appropriately).

Last task. Has anyone successfully transplated new 0603 LEDs into the levels meter of a Sony HF950 ? Looking at my board, I can't even see the solder pads that the existing LEDs are connected to - let alone tell which is +ve and -ve.

I know my eyesight isn't 100% but the LEDs and solder pads are so small.

Any advice?

Rob

Hi Rob

I've never attempted that myself but there was someone selling these converted I remember on EBay. At a price though.

Funny how only the SONY LED VU meters went faulty as I've never seen or heard other manufacturers having this issue with any they fitted to their machines (VHS and BETA alike).

Good luck with sorting that.

.Kev

Hi,

I hope I've come to the right place.

I wonder if anyone can help in a problem I have with a Sanyo VTC5000 Betacord which I recently purchased off ebay a few weeks ago. The recorder I bought was said to have been reconditioned and fully serviced, including replacing idler, belts, etc, pretty much what was needed.

When I received the player via delivery it was well packaged in layers of rubble wrap and newspapers and a cardboard box, so the issue of being damaged in transit seems unlikely. I decided to connect the player up to a large modern TV using an RF aerial cable from the recorder to the TV, and a scart to composite cable to my laptop for recording to my laptop hardtop, using capture software.

My intention for the player was to transfer and digitise aload of old Beta recordings to my computer; the tapes have been stored in a box in the loft for about 20 years. When I finally played a tape all seemed great with all the functions (rw/ff, playback, top etc) working as expected. The only thing I noticed was a what I can only describe as a "static" buzzing kind of noise whenever the tapes were playing, but due to the age of the tapes (alot of em are badly worn) I just thought it was the tapes and dust etc. Over the course of a week or so, I able to record and playback a number of tapes. After a had finished a recording session, I unplugged the recorder and stored it away until it was needed again. After about 3 days of not using it, I decided to do some more recordings, but once I switched the recorder on, put in a tape, I noticed the tape wouldn't rewind, fastforward or play. Normally, as soon as you press play or rw/ff, the tape in the cassette container moves round the video head, but this time it wouldn't move.

I have no idea what could have happened, and as I said, a few days before the player was working fine.

Either the belt has broken or the heads have been damaged. The static noise/buzzing sound I kept hearing could be the problem, or maybe a static charge has gone onto the video heads from an old tape. I don't know. Speaking of static, but since then I have been digitising some home videos from my VHS player to my computer, and for some strange reason I am noticing the same static buzzing noise during playing and playback of the tapes, which as far as I know I have never noticed before of any of those tapes the previous times I've played them. Maybe when I had the VHS player sat on top of the VTC5000 it has somehow picked up the static charge and got onto the heads of the machine, or having the VHS tapes next to the Beta tapes has done the same.

Sorry for being very long winded here, but I'm trying to best describe my situation.

Would really appreciate if anyone can be of any help with this matter.

Cheers.

Hi Davvy:

What was the seller of the VTC 5000 's E-bay ID?

Was this vcr guaranteed by them?

I do know some vcr's don't like modern digital equipment placed on top of them. They also don't like plasma TV's either. Both causing interference (usually picture) the buzzing could be this or a PSU issue.

I do have an idea what the issue with your non functioning with the Sanyo but if you can answer the above question first this would help.

If you want to contact me privately with those answers then my e-mail is under my identity.

.Kevin

I guess he must have fixed his issue?????

Can I say one thing to new posters. IF you are coming here to find free help and anyone replies PLEASE have the courtesy to reply or update us on the situation.

.Thanks......................Kevin

I was finally able to solve this overheating problem in my VTC5000. I first tried to swap the driver board with no success. It was eventually the motor itself the faulty component. I found one with low mileage and the machine is working as a charm. The heatsink is now slightly warm.

Thanks for all the advice,

Gabriel

Gabriel:

I though it would be.

Glad you've finally solved it though:)

...Kevin

I'm trying to repair an SL-HF100 that only plays back a black and white picture.

It looks like CV001 on the YC board could be the cause.

Can anyone advise where I might source a replacement? The circuit diagram indicates the original is 8-20pF.

Thanks

Clive