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Fivos Sakellis
Tuesday 13th February 2018
1:22 pm U.K.

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Hi Rich. When you press stop, can you hear the loading motor trying to turn the loading ring? Or is it just dead?

Rich
Tuesday 13th February 2018
8:04 am U.K.

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Hi Kev

Thanks for the reply. It happens when the tapes has been playing for a few hours. The loading ring seems to get jammed in the laced up position.

If I play a tape for say 30mins then it'll return back to the cassette housing when I press stop.

What do the tape loading sensors look like? I'll try cleaning them later on today.

Thanks

Rich.

K Lambert
Monday 12th February 2018
9:25 pm U.K.

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Hi Rich

If it was just the poor unlacing at the tape end then it could be the loading ring motor needed a push towards the rear of the vcr after loosening it's three screws.

However as it won't turn off it suggests something else may be the issue.

I do have a list of rare faults for the 6500 but most don't apply to the issue you mentioned.

I would try cleaning the tape load ring end switch and also the one after the tape has seated too.

Eliminate those first.

Is it just at the end of the tape it doesn't unlace or turn off.

What about if you stop it yourself, after say and hour or so?

...Kevin

Rich
Monday 12th February 2018
6:42 pm U.K.

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Hi all.

A recent fault has appeared on my Sanyo Vtc6500 whereby when the tape is threaded for a period of time (for maybe a few hours whilst watching the tape) it fails to unlace when it gets to the end or when I press stop. If I just play the tape for a few minutes and then perform rewind or fast forward it unlaces fine. Also when it doesn't unlace and when I press the standby button the red light is still on but all the controls aren't operable. I have to unplug the vcr for about 10 seconds and turn the vcr on its end and give it a gentle thump on the underside. Sometimes that will unlace it. I've fitted all new belts and idlers. The small loading motor is spinning so I don't think it's that.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

Rich.

K Lambert
Monday 12th February 2018
4:37 pm U.K.

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Fivos;

Like yourself I though that all those geared and even twin rubber idler version were identical, size wise.

When I had trouble with an upper geared one, once, I swapped it with another and it would not fit into the top pulley hole as it was slightly too big.

It seems when you are working on these the ONLY two areas which need seeing too are. 1.The springs if the older five coil (stretched looking) version and 2. the tyres themselves.

At one time I bought many of the patented idler assemblies (from Classic parts) which included the base plate and centre pulley too.

These were great apart from ONE AREA. The top small washer that held the idler wheel, centre spring and the bigger washer on. On ALL of them after a few uses this washer let's go and the bigger washer and centre spring fly off into the vcr.

It results in a really noisy and intermittent operation.

SO I ONLY change over those old springs and tyres (if need) now and I've had NO ISSUES ever that way.

Also on the really old idler set up's with the stretched looking springs ,some have a smooth surface to the pulley, which the tyre rubs against. I always groove this with a needle as no doubt Sanyo themselves found that having this area grooved later on improved things a LOT.

Think of it like a cars clutch. If it's smooth it slips if it's grooved it grips..........Simples.

.........Kev

Fivos Sakellis
Monday 12th February 2018
3:03 pm U.K.

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Kevin,

As far as I know, the later style Sanyo idler assembly has two rubber tyres, one on top of the other. These were used in the VTC-M10 -M50 front loaders and some US market top loaders such as the VCR 4400. Maybe the size of those are different than the previous style which has a geared top idler.

Fivos

K Lambert
Sunday 11th February 2018
9:18 pm U.K.

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Rob

I have seen hundreds of those idler assemblies new and old and what I found is that some of the older ones (the ones that had no grooving for the rubber tyre to grip),the pulleys were of slightly different sizes in that if you tried to use and old one with a newer top idler or bottom one sometimes they were too tight a fit.

You have to see them together though to realise this.

This 'could' be why you are having difficulties with the other one.

.....Kev

Rob COLLIS
Sunday 11th February 2018
4:15 pm U.K.

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Thanks all for clarifying.

What i cannot figure is why replacing the idler instantly fixed all the problems, yet the one I took out (which we have confirmed is the newer idler - in good shape) will not flip left/right when is needed. Even with my finger (with belt attached), the middle wheel will easily turn the tyre, but not flip the pendulum (in either direction).

Hmmm. Not a huge problem as the replacement I put in is doing a lovely job, but wanted to understand what was causing the problem with the original one.

Rob

Fivos Sakellis
Sunday 11th February 2018
3:47 pm U.K.

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Just a little update. I found the 5600P service manual from the UK:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/service-manual-for-Sanyo-VTC5600P-VRM56/112783517385?hash=item1a426be6c9:g:sxUAAOSwPIhaIA0O

Fivos Sakellis
Sunday 11th February 2018
3:45 pm U.K.

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That's interesting Kevin. So the 5500 and 5600 models were never officialy sold in the UK/They didn't make different versions of those with the PAL I UK sound carrier? I have a VTC 5350, which is a 5300P with PAL, SECAM and 110-240V switchable and a nice woodgrain finish.

K Lambert
Sunday 11th February 2018
3:17 pm U.K.

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Rob:

If as Fivos has stated you have the newer top idler with metal plate (to stop this curling upwards after time) then you will definetley have the newer springs on that.

.Kev

K Lambert
Sunday 11th February 2018
3:14 pm U.K.

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Fivos:

To confuse things even more your 5500 is the equivalent to the UK's 5300 and your 5600 is the same as the UK's 5400.The 5600 in the UK was an extremely rare top loader with infra red remote and search in the forward mode only released just after the 9300.

..Kevin

K Lambert
Sunday 11th February 2018
3:11 pm U.K.

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Rob .......I thought so :)

Sorry those links won't work for me.

You will know if you have the older type springs as they look really stretched out and are around five coils long. If they are the better, newer type they have far mode coils too them.

If you do all those things I mentioned then it could be the reel motor itself or an issue on the syscon board, but teat is rare.

....Kev

Fivos Sakellis
Sunday 11th February 2018
2:39 pm U.K.

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Hi Rob. Your 5150 seems to have the newer-style idler with the metal cover on top of it. I doubt the idler assembly is faulty. Try doing the modification with the resistor to increase the torque of the reel motor.

BTW, to clarify things so you don't get confused about the model numbers:

VTC 5000: Sanyo's best seller from 1982 and the first to unthread the tape during FF/REW.

VTC 5150: Improved 5000 from 1983 with colour search and reverse playback modes.

VTC 5500P: Top loader from 1980, no picture search.

VTC 5600P: Slightly improved 5500 with forward search (3x normal speed).

VTC 5550: MIddle East version of the 5000 with PAL, SECAM and 110-240V power input.

I see many many websites selling parts for these old machines that confuse the 5500 with the 5550, which are totally different with each other.

Fivos

Rob COLLIS
Sunday 11th February 2018
9:09 am U.K.

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Fivos/Kev,

My apologies - sticky fingers - mine of course is a VTC5150 (not VTC5500). Looks mostly identical to the VTC5000.

The idler that I took out (which wouldn't flip right or left to engage the reels) I have pictured below.

To Kev's points:

- I did lightly oil the shaft of the idler. Reel motor shaft had one drop of oil too.

- Not sure about the version of the spring - maybe the pics will answer Kev's question

- Grooved wheel in the middle scored lightly with needle

- Didn't need to clean/wash the idler as it was in great condition. Some "rubber renew" on the original tyre, but that too was in great shape (based on some crayon notes on the head cover plate, looks like the idler was replaced in 1991 anyway)

So I was concluding the springs may be stretched causing lower tension between tyre and wheel? Swapping the lower idler for a new one, made everything immediately come to life.

Have I missed something?

Rob.

(The SY1.R54 decrease is good advice - I will do that anyway. Same with the advice for cleaning the loading ring switch/contacts)

(The R49 change did not appear to affect reverse search/play do I think I am good)

(And worked out the top idler cog was for PLAY/Search-PLAY as I compared operation to one of your machines Kev !)

Some pics of the idler I took out of the machine:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qs78Prez8JRNfhPHbhsyXLxsMfDPrskL

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cMezWevI1EjnmVADNR3S_vE0MBu6b6hh

Fivos Sakellis
Saturday 10th February 2018
10:26 pm U.K.

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No. It's a VTC 5500P. Top loader from 1980 which keeps the tape threaded in all modes.

Fivos

K lambert
Saturday 10th February 2018
9:10 pm U.K.

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Rob:

Did you mean 5150?

There was no 5550 in the UK.

When you press PLAY the torque of the reel motor is what pushes (or pulls) the idlers to their respective areas.

The centre pulley must NOT be tight on the shaft and the shaft very lightly oiled(but not enough so as to make the oil collect on the base plate and contaminate the brake slider).

Are the springs on the idlers the newer ones or the older around five coils versions(these look stretched out).

The top of the reel motor benefits from a tiny drop of oil too as many have sat idle for long periods and have dried inside somewhat. You will here the motor speed up when doing this in the play or FF modes.

You can also change R54 on the syscon board from 560 to 120 ohms to increase the motor torque.

Also be careful if changing the R49 fusible one for poor take up during stop as, on the early boards, this stops the reverse play from functioning.

Also with ANY Sanyo the grooved reel spool area benefits greatly by refreshing these with a needle as the tyre grips better.

You can also refresh the idler (providing they are not hard and cracked) with washing up liquid and then lightly abrading after this with 120 grit paper to remove any shiny surface.

make sure too the tape insertion and load end ring switches contacts are clean of any oxide as they too can cause things to malfunction or stop.

Oh and for any not aware on the later Sanyo's the top idler ,geared or rubber is responsible for play (reverse play) and forward and rewind search modes ONLY.

The bottom rubber idler is responsible for the FF and REW and tape take up after stop ONLY.

If fitting the pulley for the later two rubber idler models the wider part of the pulley goes to the bottom NOT top.

Hope this helps. Enjoy......................Kev

Jack
Saturday 10th February 2018
8:22 pm U.K.

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Hi, today I’ve been able to actually have a look at my Sony SL-C9 to see if I can solve my slow capstan issue. Reading here, I’ve noticed that it’s highly likely my back tension is set too high, so the tape slows down the capstan motor, slowing down playback. I’ve heard that I can adjust RV002 to solve this issue but which test point do I connect up to to correct it to the right values? I can see the test points - there are 16 of which on the SS11 board but I don’t know which one is relevant. Any help would be greatfully received. Thanks

Fivos Sakellis
Saturday 10th February 2018
2:28 pm U.K.

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Hello again Rob. I took some photos of the bottom of the chassis and the idler assemblies with the springs etc. I hope I didn't miss something. Let me know if that helps. Link for the pictures:

https://ufile.io/r1v1n

As far as I know, the geared idler is for turning the take-up reel in play/rec, fwd search and FF modes and the tyre-based idler wheel is for turning the supply reel in reverse search (The 5500 doesn't have that feature), and REW.

Rob COLLIS
Saturday 10th February 2018
8:42 am U.K.

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Thanks Fivos.

I am beginning to think it is the springs (one on each side) that is meant to tension the tyre to the wheel and that tension forces the left and right movement of the drive pendulum when the motor turns the belt that the wheel is attached to (is that correct?)

I am guessing that if the springs are too loose, the wheel can turn the tyre, but cannot flip the drive pendulum to the correct left or right position to engage the supply/take-up reels.

With this problem idler, it looks in great condition so would like to understand if the problem is likely to be the springs or something else.

Rob

Fivos Sakellis
Saturday 10th February 2018
1:22 am U.K.

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Hi Rob.

I happen to have a Sanyo VTC 5600 (actually the Fisher clone of it), which has a dried rewind idler tyre and I still havel no way to restore it. I THINK, there is a spring that pushes the idler assembly to the supply reel table when you go into rewind mode (it also kicks a solenoid inside, hence the clucky sound). Also, my multi-system VTC 9455 happens to have the exact same mechanism of the 5500/5600 but with a solenoid-operated eject. I can take photos of the mechanism if you want.

Fivos

Rob COLLIS
Friday 9th February 2018
6:55 pm U.K.

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On a different topic....

Went to collect some old tapes this week and they came with an immaculate Sanyo VTC5500. It was so clean inside (and out) that I wanted to get it going. Some great O-rings were used inside for drive and loading belts ;-)

Anyways, main problem was idler mechanism. Replaced this (I had some spare NOS), did the torque-mod, replaced the belts and cleaned, re-oiled the tape-drive bearings, capstan etc. All works fantastic now.

My question is regarding the problem on the original idler. It looked like new, and originally I dismantled and cleaned, rubber-renew on the tyre (which looked great btw), roughed-up the wheel that touches the tire but couldn't get it to do it's job. The problem was that the pendulum with the tyre on it would not move to the left when it should. It struggled to move to the right too, but never returned to the left on stop, tape-in etc.

There was good tension/friction between the tyre and the white plastic part it touches so was stumped as to why it didn't move. Anyone know what this is?

Would have been good to have fixed what looked like a perfectly good idler.

Rob

Rob COLLIS
Friday 9th February 2018
6:46 pm U.K.

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Hi all,

Yes, I did try the other screws (which I thought were for audio adjustment - inc azimuth) but this still made no difference. I did check the capstan alignment, but this (and the pinch roller) look in great condition and aligned.

I am concluding this is a dead CTL head.

Rob

Fivos Sakellis
Thursday 8th February 2018
3:33 pm U.K.

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Rob,

I had similar issues with an SL-T30ME. The audio was very muffled (loss of treble response) and the tracking was awful. I adjusted the azimuth screw of the ACE head and that took care of the problem but it still chewed up tapes in forward search. I will take a look again once I find a replacement drum motor as this part died on mine. :(

Fivos

K lambert
Wednesday 7th February 2018
6:37 pm U.K.

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One other thing.........

Make sure too the capstan shaft is angled perfectly too. There is a slight adjustamnte there as well, so the tape is being pulled through dead flat with no unequal torsion (you can see that when it's in the play or forward search modes).

.....Kev

K lambert
Wednesday 7th February 2018
6:34 pm U.K.

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Hi Rob

Have you tried the up and down movements as well. You can get a small inspection mirror and remove the tape/cassette flap so you can see if the tape has the exact amount of the head exposed top and bottom, as it should be.There is also a slight tilt (azimuth) too.

Failing all that replacement seems to be the way to go.

Keep us posted...................Kev

Rob COLLIS
Wednesday 7th February 2018
4:16 pm U.K.

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Kev/Gabriel,

Had another look at the Sony SL-C30UB with the playback CTL issue. See: https://youtu.be/mbCLpigNPsY

Looked the back-tension by applying some additional tension to the back-arm with my finger. This did not bring the CTL head to life.

Next, I look at the ACE adjustments. At first I tried applying pressure to the spring-screw while the tape was playing (no change) and then followed the service-manual instructions for aligning the CTL head (unscrew the 2 alignment screws) and the whole ACE assembly can move backwards and forwards. As I played a tape, I slowly moved the assembly from one end to another and not once did the picture/sound appear.

I have re-looked at the assembly under a magnifying glass and the CTL head does not seem worn or dirty (I previously cleaned with contact-cleaner on a head-cleaning stick, then IPA).

I re-confirmed the machine writes the CTL track okay(plays fine in another machine) and audio is fine (for the second or so before the circuits cut out sound and vision due to lack of playback CTL pulse).

I have even tried a scope on the end of the CTL head plug (after unplugging from servo board and nothing is there on play).

Do you think this concludes the CTL head is broken?

Rob

K lambert
Wednesday 7th February 2018
5:19 am U.K.

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Gabriel:

Many thanks for the info.

I will keep you posted.

I do have a few spares HF100 's so will change out this solenoid first.

I know occasionally that inline fuse is known to cause problems.

Thanks again..................Kevin

Fivos Sakellis
Tuesday 6th February 2018
3:37 pm U.K.

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Gabriel,

The VTC 5550 was intended for the Middle East market. It won't play or receive French SECAM. I saw one of these on the Spanish eBay about a month ago. Here in Greece, we used SECAM B/G as the broadcast standard in the 80s so these models where somewhat popular here. I have a VTC 5350 which is the PAL/SECAM version of the 5300P. These models are multi-voltage too. The VTC 5550 looks almost identical to the American Sanyo VCR 4000 model.

Fivos

Gabriel
Tuesday 6th February 2018
10:19 am U.K.

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Kevin,

Try to have a look to the solenoid signals. This component has three wires, one common for +12V and the other two seem to be for take and release. Main microprocessor IC drives a multi-transistor stage for switching the solenoid. Right now, I only have available the manual for C30 ( HF100 and C30 should share this arrangement) and it states that involved pins on the IC are 23 and 24. Check for signs of life on those lines (with DMM should be enough).

At first, I would blame some transistor or diode on the current amp stage but there is a chance that the solenoid itself would be damaged. It hides a thermal fuse under the blue tape cover, you can also have a look to that.

Hope this helps,

Gabriel

Gabriel
Tuesday 6th February 2018
7:29 am U.K.

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Fivos,

To me, the VTC-5550 was not quite common in Spain (I have been in the search of beta machines in Spain for years and I only found a couple them among dozens of C30s, F30s and 5000s). I had the feeling that these machines were marketed for a "mixed" PAL/SECAM region, including France, Spain and specially Morocco. Many machines are ending up in Spanish territory after departuring from France. This might also be true for other models, with endless Sony SL-F30PS/F60PS and VTC-M10 Pal-Secam units spread over the country.

If memory serves me, the VTC-5550 has a completely different mechanical layout than the VTC-5000, being more similar to older machines. I recall changing a lot of belts on the last unit I serviced, maybe one or two years ago.

Interesting conversation, by the way.

Regards,

Gabriel

Fivos Sakellis
Tuesday 6th February 2018
1:14 am U.K.

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Gabriel,

In Spain the VTC 5550 model also seems to be pretty common. It is the same as the 5000 but it has PAL and SECAM and a nice woodgrain finish. Quite strange because Spain never used SECAM.

K lambert
Monday 5th February 2018
8:43 pm U.K.

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Hi Guys

I have a Sony SLHF100 here with an issues whereby it loads and unloads fine and ejects but when pressing PLAY the solenoid pops forward for a second and then out again leaving the pinch roller away from the capstan shaft.

Would this be the actual solenoid at fault or failing or something else?

Cheers in advance..................Kevin

Gabriel
Monday 5th February 2018
6:54 am U.K.

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Kevin,

Yes, I have seen that NX30 here in Spain. I have never repaired/sold it (not a common machine) but for me it is the same as the M30 displayed on the Palsite gallery, in black. I don't know the reason there were two different M30s.

The M30 I am more used to see is an improved M20 with "Slow-mo" capabilities. The power supply is also slightly different and, to my experience, more prone to fail.

So far, we had three machines quite similar in appearance:

VTC-M10 basic machine, widely sold

VTC-M20 with added infrared remote

VTC-M30 with added slow motion

And overall sales beta Sanyo in Spain were roughly (only to my observation):

VTC-5000 (incredibly well sold)

VTC-M10

VTC-M20

VTC-NX10 (later machine, coexisted with many VHS units)

Less sold

VTC-6500

VTC-M30

VTC-5300 /5350/5400 (all those with a bunch of pulleys and belts)

VTC-9300

I will give a go to that potentiometer and post the result. It will take me some time as long as I don't have plenty of it, lately.

Regards,

Gabriel

K lambert
Sunday 4th February 2018
3:54 am U.K.

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Gabriel:

The NX100 /10 potentiometer is a lot easier to sort then the M30/40 one as there's only one metal plate inside. It's also not usually loose by the plastic heat melted posts being broken either.

As for that other M30.It looks more like the Australian M20.At least the versions we had here in the UK were distinctive and colourful.

Have you seen the NX30 that they had in Spain?It's like the second M30 image but in BLACK ad I like that a lot. It also replicates the UK M30 in that it has the tape remaining indicator and three heads for clear still,slo mo features too.

I have a mint m30 and have just acquired another that is being readied for selling on and is virtually perfect all over too.

Let me know how you get on.

........Kev

Gabriel
Saturday 3rd February 2018
10:58 pm U.K.

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Dear Kevin,

Thanks a lot for the prompt response. Yes, the potentiometer is definitely the one to blame. I will open it and have a look to the contact and resistive layer. With some luck, it will be happily working again (by the way, this video shows a nice color and sharp image).

On the other hand, there is something weird about the Sanyo VTC-M30. I have seen it with two different housings, although the model number is the same for both.

This is the one I have seen more frequently:

https://www.todocoleccion.net/cine-varios/aparato-video-reproductor-grabador-beta-sanyo-vtc-m30-magnifico-anos-80~x53419230

And this is the other one, which I have seldom seen:

http://www.oldvcr.tv/collection/index.html?Brand=Sanyo

I don't know if internally they are the same machine, but it seems they aren't.

Regards,

Gabriel

K lambert
Saturday 3rd February 2018
7:16 pm U.K.

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Hi Gabriel:

These are known to fail as much as the one fitted to the M30/40 models.

They can be opened up and re secured to enable them to work perfectly again.

You have to gently push up on the contact part for it to put the correct and even pressure during all it's travel.

If you push up on the tracking wheel from the bottom and experience tracking interference then you know it's needs doing.

.............Kevin

Gabriel
Saturday 3rd February 2018
12:54 pm U.K.

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Dear Betaphiles,

Does anyone know a remedy for a faulty tracking potentiometer on the Sanyo NX10 / NX100 series? Mine seems to be failing at the center position. I have tried to center it via RV1 on the servo section but it still fails. If you wiggle it a little, image is perfect, otherwise you get a lower noise band on screen.

It has a "special" package so a standard replacement is not possible. On the other hand, pots from M series are bigger.

Thanks in advance,

Gabriel

K lambert
Thursday 1st February 2018
4:12 am U.K.

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Rob:

Actually the method I suggested will be more relevant to the forward tension.

The back tension is accomplished by means of a felt band (like ALL Sanyo's) and a lightly spring loaded arm (that I've never had to touch).

You will need the Sony SLC003 back/forward tension torque cassette for perfect results though.

As Gabriel has suggested a light pressure to the back tension arm will highlight if this is responsible or not.

When set correctly the top of the silver back tension pin should just touch the outer white plastic loading ring track edge when in the PLAY mode when looking directly above.

Hope that makes sense?

.......Kev

Brian Darby
Thursday 1st February 2018
2:38 am U.K.

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I am in need of a Betacam SP tape player to dub 60 professional SP Betacam tapes to DVD. Does any one have a good working machine I can borrow,hire or purchase please? I am in Sydney and can pick up.

Rob COLLIS
Wednesday 31st January 2018
8:27 am U.K.

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OK Gabriel. Let me see.

(Yes, cleaned - even swapped the pinch roller and no change)

Will let you all know

Gabriel
Wednesday 31st January 2018
6:41 am U.K.

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Rob,

The back tension adjustment on the C30 (as per most beta machines) is performed mechanically on a stair-wise spring mechanism on the reel table. It is factory glued. Before attempting to move it, try to manually apply more tension on the tape while on playback. This is done by gently moving the back tension arm (black). You will see that the tape gets more or less tensioned depending of the position of this arm pin.

Did you finally swap the pinch roller to see any difference?

Regards,

Gabriel

Rob COLLIS
Tuesday 30th January 2018
5:46 pm U.K.

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oh.. and forgot to say.

Looked at the back-tension using Kev's method of "looking for a temporary tape loop when RWD-search is stopped". This was as expected.

I have to say, I cannot see the usual "pitting" on the CTL head - it looks in good shape.

Is it worth increasing back-tension? Do you know what pot this is on a C30?

Rob

Rob COLLIS
Tuesday 30th January 2018
1:50 pm U.K.

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Hi Kev/Gabriel,

Thought I would provide an update on the Sony SL-C30UB. Managed to fix the power board ( very-high ESR capacitor and faulty power transistor). Luckily, hadn't done any damage to the TP37 board so everything back to normal except for the playback CTL problem.

-- Got some head cleaning sticks and thoroughly cleaned the CTL head with contact cleaner then IPA. No difference.

-- Inspected the head and the original paint over the screws implies it hadn't been messed with.

-- Record CTL pulses still written to the tape fine

-- Replaced the tracking capacitor (per Palsite guide) on SS16 and re-aligned tracking to centre using scope and color-bar tape

-- Played a tape and pushed/pulled/rocked the CTL head block to see if it came to life - It didn't.

The fact I saw the machine playing okay for about 20 mins when I first had the machine implies to me the head is aligned and the wires are not shorted as record works. It is possible the CTL head is now pretty much dead even though record still works?

Any final ideas before this machine becomes parts?

Rob

K lambert
Friday 26th January 2018
2:44 am U.K.

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Rob

I have seen one or two bad caps in the few C30 's I've worked on. They usually put a herringbone type pattern over the screen if bad.

I always check all caps on ANY Sony in the PSU as we know they make other things go pop if left long enough. The Sanyo's I've seen are far more robust in the PSU area too. Usually the clock display ones are going bad ,mainly on the VTC 5000 but not all of them. I would think some have been powered on for very long periods as that model was extremely popular in it's day and hundreds still about.

Also I wouldn't recommend ANY type of cotton be used for cleaning purposes and some 'experts' still say it's safe to use them.

I don't. You can still buy purpose made head cleaning sticks that you soak with alcohol for the job. (cpc.co.uk).

Yes those HF100 's are good machines but if your tapes are mono sound only then it will add to the wear of those Hi-Fi heads too.

One other thing did you remove the glue from the hall sensor on that C30 (or had it already failed?).

Another area that may be responsible I think....is the reel brakes. Are they disengaging? As I've seen three F30 's where they were not as you couldn't set the back tension and one had prematurley worn the heads because of this.

...Kev

Rob COLLIS
Thursday 25th January 2018
8:10 pm U.K.

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Yes, I see your point Kev. It's odd, after a couple of years now of doing the video transfers I have concluded that each machine and format has its pros/cons.

I find the Sanyo VTC5000, VTC6500 are very robust and play good-condition and/or pre-recorded tapes well but struggle with mucky old-tapes that I am sent ;-(. I have been very pleased with Sony HF100 (I have 3 working ones now - yay!) and they can play anything but I am forever cleaning clogged heads (which involves a stripdown) and have had to replace hall-sensors in each. I have similar stories on V2000 and Philips N1502/1700 machines.

With my new ESR meter, I have found 1 dodgy cap and the power transistor (as well as the fuse) on the Sony SL-C30 had gone bang. I can replace all those things, but fear I have done damage to the TP37 board (it was receiving 32v on the 19v pin AFTER the fuse in the power board had blown!). I will let you know. Will be a few days to receive the replacement power transistor.

Thanks for your continued help btw.

Gabriel - I did "wiggle" the ACE block before the power issue like you suggested and it did not change the outcome. ALso, the fact it was working okay last week (for about 20mins) makes me think it may not be an alignment issue. I think I also ruled out the chance REC-mode was still pushing out the CTL pulse during play as I cannot see anything coming in from the CTL plug when I disconnect it from the SS16 board. I am trending toward Kev's theory that the head is dirty, but I have cleaned with Iso-propyl alcohol on a cotton-bud/q-tip - maybe I didn't get it into every last corner. It is the top of the silver head in the ACE block - isn't it?

Rob

K lambert
Thursday 25th January 2018
7:02 pm U.K.

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Rob:

Can you see now why Sony beta's are so wonderful :(

Also check whether you've removed all the crud from this head too.

I had a C6 to work on once where it did exactly as you are finding and it was down to the CTL head being contaminated.

.Kev

Gabriel
Thursday 25th January 2018
6:05 pm U.K.

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Oooops, did you short-circuited anything while the machine was running?

Good thing is the power supply on the SL-C30 is relatively robust, so it might only need the fuse changed.

Good luck!

Rob COLLIS
Thursday 25th January 2018
5:48 pm U.K.

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Thanks Gabriel. I will let you know, but I have to fix another problem first. On powering up the machine today, the clock died/no buttons can be pressed. One of the fuses in the secondary power board has blown (also looks like one of the power transistors has died) and I may have destroyed the clock panel as there is now a little black bit visible in the screen.

Maybe this machine was not meant to be.

I will update you if I can bring it back to life enough to try further tests on the original problem.

Rob

Gabriel
Thursday 25th January 2018
10:39 am U.K.

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Rob,

I still think you have some kind of misalignment issue with the CTL head. This assembly is somehow "stubborn" as the tape path ages. I don't think you have a faulty CTL head, it is not quite common (however take this as a grain of salt because I have changed a couple them in the past few years, with nice results). Can you try to manually "move" the whole CTL head while playing a tape? I mean, with the tip of the finger, gently press down the whole assembly so as to compress the spring which keeps it in place (don't worry it will go back to its original position thanks to the adjustment screws). See if suddenly you have some random image. If so, some misalignment is to blame. Before touching any screw adjustment -which I don't recommend except for severe cases- please swap the pinch roller and see any change. You should also check the tracking potentiometer, but as long as you are missing pulses it is unlikely to be faulty.

Other way to explore would be the electrical path. If you get a good recording, the signal path wiring from the CTL head and the board seems OK because it is used both for Play/Record. However, the circuitry for generating the CTL pulses on recording is different, having its source from a different board. If you are not getting pulses on the input of IC301 (digital servo IC), namely TP410, you may have some problem in the pulse-conditioning and amplifying stage. Check signals around IC302 (pins 1 and 7) with the CRO to see any sign of life. Always try to use a x10 probe because it provides better impedance adapting. If no signal at all, please check transistor Q373 which inhibits pulses in record mode. It may be leaky (typical Sony issue). You can temporary desolder that transistor and see what happens because it should work as a switch (no linear mode).

You can also try to change the capacitor tandem C317-C360, just in case they are completely open, thus blocking the signal to the opamps.

Let us know your progress on this machine.

Regards,

Gabriel

Rob COLLIS
Wednesday 24th January 2018
12:17 pm U.K.

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Hi Gabriel/Kev,

I am reporting back on my Sony SL-C30UB sync issue (followed by audio/video disappearing). See: https://youtu.be/mbCLpigNPsY

I think you are right that the problem is down to a CTL playback problem. Here is what I have done.

- (replaced all (2) Sanyo caps on the SS16 board. Worthwhile based on Kev's experience, but not sure its the problem this time)

- Attached a scope to SS16.CN307 - this plug is attached directly to the control head. During play/pause/picture search, I see almost nothing on either pin (a tiny 50mVp-p sine-like wave I am assuming is noise). Page 25 of the service manual (Servo Block Diagram) is expecting a "spike" wave (3.3Vp-p) on PIN 16 of SS16.IC301 which is further down the chain. I confirmed I get the same-almost-nothing at this point too.

- If I attempt a record, I get a nice square wave at the CTL head plug (SS16.CN307) and at SS16.IC301.Pin13 per the service manual.

- I played my recording in the SL-C30 but again nothing on the CTL head pin.

- The recording on the SL-C30 plays fine in another, working beta.

- I could not test for continuity between the SS16 plug wire and the CTL head itself as I could not see any accessible wire terminals on the CTL head. That said, I have manipulated (wiggled) the CTL head wire near the CTL head while playing, but no improvement.

So... can I assume that if I am getting nothing on the scope during play from the plug that goes directly to the CTL head that I have a faulty CTL head? I thought that would be pretty unlikely - have you seen this?

Strange thing was, when I first fixed the reel-table issues (see previous posts), the machine played fine for about 20 mins before this problem came about. Hence ruling out someone else fiddling with the ACH assembly.

Any ideas on what I can do next?

Rob

K lambert
Tuesday 23rd January 2018
8:24 pm U.K.

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Gabriel:

I agree and ANY beta vcr that struggles with normal tape playing, quite a few think moving the calibrated tape guides is the norm.(maybe to make the tape movement easier).The thing is ,as we know ,this put's the tape path alignment out with bad mis tracking e.t.c.

I've seen some horrendous fiddling on Sanyo VTC 5000 's when the main tape drive area needs a good service.

On the few occasions I've had to adjust any potentiometer I ALWAYS mark it's original position. It's saves a LOT of frustration later on.

...Kev

Rich
Tuesday 23rd January 2018
7:06 pm U.K.

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Hi all.

I'm just wondering if any of you have a head earthing kit for sale for a Sony slhf950ub please as I'm getting static interference on the picture. Some newer tapes play back fine but some older ones are nearly unwatchable 😢

It already has the plastic sheet installed.

Many thanks.

Rich.

Gabriel
Tuesday 23rd January 2018
7:58 am U.K.

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There is no risk at touching the Torq adjustment, as long as you mark the original position on the potentiometer (always a rule of thumb if you are adjusting stuff). It also allows certain amount of tolerance. For me, it is a quick and safe way to discard other issues, e.g. like somebody was previously fiddling the machine, something more and more usual these days.

On the other hand, it seems that Rob's machine is missing CTL pulses. When this happens, the electronics automatically shuts down audio and video signals. Once in pause or FFWD/REW, the machine is not using this "disable" signal so you are getting image (audio is still disabled on these transport modes for obvious reasons).

Consider the chance that you have some kind of misalignment within CTL head-pinch roller-capstan set. Try to swap the pinch roller from another machine and see if it gets better. Have a look to the screws locking the CTL head adjustments, it is clearly visible when they have been previously changed from factory settings.

You can also try to record a tape on that machine and play it back to see the results.

K lambert
Tuesday 23rd January 2018
3:21 am U.K.

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Rob

From what you are describing I would say caps on the servo board. I would also check the PSU ones too as on the HF100 and 950 models they ALWAYS have quite a few that have gone high ESR.

I wouldn't touch the torque setting until you have checked the others first.

If you hav'nt a torque tape one way to check it is go from reverse search and to play and look at the top of the capstan/pinch roller area. You should get a little bounce there with the tape as it settles back to play.If it's a big loop or no bounce then it's either not enough or too much.

A torque tape is a better judge though.

......Kev

Rob COLLIS
Monday 22nd January 2018
6:05 pm U.K.

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Gabriel/Kev,

Done some more checks on the Sony SL-C30UB as advised.

Running through the service manual electrical alignment I found:

- 5.1 Power Supply Check - ALL OK

- 5.2 System Control Check (SS16) - Clock Frequency Check - OK

- 5.3 Servo System Alignment -

-5.3.1 Drum Servo system - OK ( as Kev suspected)

RF Switching Position Adjustment - OK

- 5.3.2 Capstan Servo System Alignment - PROBLEM

There is meant to be a 5V square wave at TP407 but there was almost nothing (flatline on the scope with the odd 0.1v "spike" )

Connecting the scope directly to AV out, I can "see" the video signal when I PAUSE or "Picture Search" but when I play, the signal flatlines again after about 2 seconds.

I will next replace the Sanyo caps on the Servo board (as Kev suggest) and see if TORQ pot makes any difference (as Gabriel has suggested).

I was surprised that the video (and audio) signals completely disappear in this situation - is this some sort of safety shutdown? The head drum, capstand and tape spools are happily spinning during all this.

The final piece of evidence I have is the machine appears to work for around 10 mins first thing in the morning when it has been left switched off and is cold. Does this provide any clues?

Thanks again for your help

Rob

Mike Franklin
Monday 22nd January 2018
12:52 pm U.K.

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Many thanks to all those who responded to my tape loading query on the Sony SLC-20 deck, particularly Rob Collis. I will follow the Youtube demo and see if I can get that to work. If not, I'll revert to K. Lambert for more advice. Cheers, Mike.

Gabriel
Monday 22nd January 2018
12:11 pm U.K.

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Rob,

You can also check the FWD torque setting. If it's set too high, the take up reel and hence the tape might "overdrive" the capstan, causing all kind of tracking unstabilities. The adjustment pot is located on the SS11 board, labelled "Torq" if memory serves me.

Regards,

Gabriel

K lambert
Monday 22nd January 2018
10:35 am U.K.

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Rob:

It's also worth checking if it has those light blue Sanyo caps on the servo board (SS) as they may need changing out too. That issue is slowly becoming more common to other models other than the C6 now. I've seen a few VTC 5000 's with it (as you know).

....Kev

K lambert
Monday 22nd January 2018
10:33 am U.K.

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Rob:

Looking at the video you sent leave the head drum alone it's the capstan speed that's at fault.

Looks to be needing a slight tweak. You'll know when it's correct as it will be noise free the sound at the correct speed and also it won't loose the picture after a few seconds.

As for the last post sorry I don't read Spanish....

..Kev

Weber1600
Sunday 21st January 2018
11:25 pm U.K.

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Hola,

Estoy reacondicionando un Sony sl c9. .

El problema que tiene es que hace ruido el canal de audio izquierdo..

La imagen es correcta, todo funciona bien a excepción del canal izquierdo,

hace un ruido, más tarde desaparece cuando el vídeo coge temperatura de uso,

aunque en ocasiones también hace ruido en caliente..

Que problema puede ser??

K lambert
Sunday 21st January 2018
5:56 pm U.K.

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Rob;

The RF switching I would leave alone as you need to set up the two I mentioned first to see what else may be wrong. The picture search one is normally to stabalize the noise bars during this mode.

You will know when they are right and going from search to play will let you know even more as it's should be a smooth ,solid and quick picture transition from each mode.

....Kev

Rob COLLIS
Sunday 21st January 2018
5:45 pm U.K.

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Thanks Kev. I was just reading the "Electrical Adjustments" section in the service manual.

I have a video of the problem here https://youtu.be/mbCLpigNPsY

Does this look like the I need to do the Servo system alignment per 5-3 of the service manual? I don't have an original alignment tape, but can create a colour bar tape.

Are you suggesting I follow the Drum Free Speed Adjustment then Capstan DV Bias Adjustment?

I see there are other adjustments for RF Switching Position and Picture Search - would you advise doing these as well?

[I will check the power supply voltages while I am there]

Thanks in advance

Rob

K lambert
Sunday 21st January 2018
5:22 pm U.K.

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Rob

When I work on the Sony's I always remove the four screws and flip out the entire reel drive are. Lube the bearings on both spools and the motor shaft (very lightly) and then you can check that everything is in place.

It is possible down to that someone has been in there and adjusted the head drum speed control and other pot's in the 'hope' it cured the fault for the reel drive.

I've seen this many times.

You will need to adjust the 'head drum' and 'capstan free speed' until it all locks in nicely and going from search straight to playback should be as smooth and quick as possible when set up perfectly. With the Sony's if this is not done it will trip things out.

Good luck...................

Rob COLLIS
Sunday 21st January 2018
4:12 pm U.K.

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Hi all - thanks for the advice. Thought I would report back.

Mechanical issue now fixed. It turned out to be a couple of factors:

- The underside of the pendulum was "gunky" and was having trouble spinning freely. The rotor itself was fine - no fouling on the magnets. BUT...

- The loading carriage's front-middle screw was causing some sort of jam/fouling on the reel mechanism underneath. As soon as I started to loosen it, the supply/take-up reels started spinning freely. Is this the plastic of the pendulum being forced upwards when the middle tape carriage screw is in place and tight?

Either way - with the middle screw removed all functions (mechanically) work fine. ;-)

I am now faced with an electrical problem. When playing a tape, I get 2-3 seconds of badly-synced vision (2 white bars - 1 top, 1 bottom rolling toward centre screen every second) before the screen goes blank (Video out and RF). Tracking control does not appear to affect the picture at all. If I pause or search fwd/rwd the picture shows; when I put back into play the symptom repeats.

Any ideas?

Rob.

K lambert
Sunday 21st January 2018
2:58 pm U.K.

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Re Reading the post I found the updated version was causing the issue with that extra piece added so removed it.

It's a bit like those updated top geared idlers from Sanyo. Some made with just plastic bent upwards and they added another metal plate on top to prevent this.

Not all do though. I would suspect the hotter the environment the more likely that is to happen.

Keep those air vets clear too it saves any stress on those PSU capacitors.

....................Kev

K lambert
Sunday 21st January 2018
2:52 pm U.K.

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Hi Noel:

Yes I also forgot about that issue.

I had one here a few years ago that did exactly that.

It's like and extra 'L' shape on the tip of the plastic moulded arm and it does foul the spring. I cut that off as it's not required. Everything worked A1 after that and the guy was over the moon on it's return.

....Kevin

Noel Higgins
Sunday 21st January 2018
4:18 am U.K.

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Rob.

Re the SLC30 (and also going by our local version the SLC35 )

There were two types of pendulum arms. The early one without a brace (rib) on top and the later one with a brace rib.

Over time the earlier type bent up and could even foul a spring plus this meant that the gear was slightly angled affecting the teeth meshing with the spool drives on FFD and REW modes.

You can see it by eye if you remove the pendulum. I have fixed a few crudely using the soldering iron/plastic weld technique but if this is the issue, better to replace it with the updated design if you can get one.

The bearing issue does not jam the motor, rather the rotor magnet rubbing against the coils does. If it happens bad enough copper is rubbed across between turns causing a magnetic shorting of motor coils.

Fix this by adding a spacer under the spindle point to return some clearance, cleaning away the excess copper to remove the shorts then resealing with nail polish works if the drive electronics have survived the stress.

Apart from using a dummy tape you can actually manipulate the cassette in and cassette down switches and put the unit is play, REW and FFD modes to check the issues out a bit better. This allows you to also check that the supply wheel has sufficient tension to take up slack when you operate the eject mode.

regards Noel (Betaheaven.com Australia)

K lambert
Saturday 20th January 2018
7:53 pm U.K.

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Rob:

More than likely yes (can you spin the magnet freely without is slightly rubbing on the coils?).If not then you have issues with components on the actual reel drive board and could be a hall sensor on there.

Mike :

It could be like Rob has stated either oxidised insertion switches or the side gear has a crack.

I can sort those out as I have spares for these and the side gear can be repaired too.

The C9 issue mentioned it sounds like the back tension setting is out.It is very critical on the C9. Can you get the trick frames to work? This will highlight even more if it's so.

RV002 I think set's this up and it needs to be 48gm2 and you will need the SLC003 tension tape to check this.

.....Kevin

Rob COLLIS
Saturday 20th January 2018
5:56 pm U.K.

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Hi Mike Franklin.

I have found a few times that the contacts that are meant to signal a tape is being inserted are dirty and need a clean with contact cleaner. Take a look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBvs8vNzWwc&t=634s .

This is fairly simply to do.

If the gears are broken this is a more complicated repair.

Rob

Mike Franklin
Saturday 20th January 2018
5:23 pm U.K.

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I have a Sony Betamax SL-C20 video deck. It is in working order except that the tape window will not accept the tape. You can push it half-way in but no further. I am told by a local repairer that it cannot be repaired because the relevant parts are no longer available. Is this true? If not, can anyone suggest were I should take the deck for this repair and/or obtain the necessary parts?

Thanks, Mike.

Rob COLLIS
Saturday 20th January 2018
12:42 pm U.K.

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...bit more info on my post below

Using a dummy cassette, I noticed when I pressed RWD, the pendulum did not move as expected to the left and therefore the supply reel did not turn.

On disassembly, the pendulum is not jammed - if I move the motor manually, the pendulum moves to the left (or right) as expected which in turn moves the reels.

If I manually move the pendulum left (to RWD position) before inserting the dummy tape, the FWD function works.

Is this the bearing issue? Everything seems smooth.

Rob

Rob COLLIS
Saturday 20th January 2018
11:38 am U.K.

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Hello Beta experts.

I have been given a Sony SL-C30UB and trying to work out what type of "it doesn't play" fault it has. I have read the page on PalSite, but still not sure.

Here are the symptoms:

- Cassette load and lace fine.

- On play, FWD, RWD the head motor turns so have ruled out a faulty hall-sensor

- On play, FWD, RWD the supply reel (and possibly the take-up reel) do not turn. At all. As a result, each operation stops automatically after 3 seconds or so.

- On eject, the tape is not pulled back into the cassette.

I have dis-assembled the reel assembly and cleaned the drive pendulum and used some contact cleaner on the motor. The reel motor (and indeed the whole machine) look in good shape and was told was not used much. The back tension mechanism appears functional.

So.. per the PalSite technical section - how do I tell whether the problem is "drive pendulum ceased (I think this is okay), reel motor bottom bearing, YC-25 PS1 silicon fuse. Or something else?

btw - Where is the PS1 silicon fuse? - I can't find it.

As ever, all help gratefully received.

Rob

Jack
Friday 19th January 2018
8:58 pm U.K.

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Hi, I’ve acquired a Sony SL C9UB which I absolutely love but it has a capstan lock issue (so the tapes slow down, get a wow and flutter in the audio and have a rolling noise bar every two seconds or so). The problem is that I have seen many posts for this issue on C6 machines but absolutely nothing on the C9 so I have no idea how to fix my machine. Can anyone help or point me in the direction of someone else who could? Thanks

Fivos Sakellis
Friday 19th January 2018
12:42 am U.K.

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Hello guys. I happen to have a Sanyo VTC 9455 multi system Beta. It is a very rare Middle East model from 1981 that uses the same mechanism as the VTC 5500 and 5600 UK/European models but it has a damn switching power supply, like the SL-C7. I'm in trouble finding the service manual for this machine. Can anyone help?

Thanks in advance!

Frandid
Sunday 14th January 2018
4:26 pm U.K.

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Happy New year to everybody !

Frandid

Noel Higgins
Friday 12th January 2018
12:08 am U.K.

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Gabriel,

That is interesting. So the simplest option may be to have one DC (5V, 9V or 12V) to AC 3.3V module driving the filament and also a mini step up transformer to give a suitably higher AC voltage into a full wave bridge and capacitor combination to give your -21DC rail. You could add a three terminal regulator but I suspect the actual voltage required by the display is not critical.

You need the display of the Sony SLC9 but you don't need the now defunct tuner.

cheers Noel

Gabriel
Thursday 11th January 2018
5:44 pm U.K.

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I had some minutes to check the service manual:

It seems that the filament needs AC voltage. I am not 100% sure if it can be driven on DC. Also, the segments need -26VDC for turning on so this is a must for using an integrated DC-to-DC module.

Looking at the eBay pictures, the solution developed from this seller appears to be formed by three DC-DC converters. Combining their voltages positives, negatives and playing with grounds it is possible to get all the voltages the original converter supplied. It appears to me that this new board is giving DC to the filament, unless there is some AC-switching we cannot see on the bottom side of the PCB.

I have found an interesting document from Futaba (a display manufacturer, Sanyo betas and other VCRs implement this brand) showing differences among AC and DC driven VFDs techniques. In my oppinion it is worth reading:

https://www.futaba.co.jp/en/display/vfdinfo/vinfo_kudo_1.html

Hope to be helpful,

Gabriel

Gabriel
Thursday 11th January 2018
6:54 am U.K.

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Noel,

Yes, I have been thinking about that idea from time to time. Since the tuner is no longer used, there's no need for the higher voltages from the inverter to deliver.

However, you do need the negative voltage for the display driver as long as the segments "turn on" with a negative rail (around -20V, if memory serves me). Also, I am not sure if the AC voltage is always needed for heating up the filament. I recall having seen designs with DC-driven filaments for VFD displays.

Once at home I will have a look to the service manual of the C9, but I really like the idea of building a "stripped-down" version of the inverter. There are dozens of integrated DC-DC modules at reasonable cost from Digikey, Farnell or RS. Problem is time to develop the complete assembly, which lately I don't have plenty of.

Kind regards,

Gabriel

Noel Higgins
Tuesday 9th January 2018
8:32 pm U.K.

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Gabriel,

You are right about the re-designed SLC9 DC/DC replacements. However since the higher voltage used by the "analogue" tuner boards are no longer required I wonder if just having the 3.3V AC filament voltage generated would be enough to get the display working? Might be worth looking into as a cheaper "replacement" option.

regards Noel

Rich
Tuesday 9th January 2018
6:56 pm U.K.

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Noel.

Thank you very much for that information.

It's very much appreciated!

Rich.

Gabriel
Tuesday 9th January 2018
5:35 pm U.K.

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Noel,

That's a SL-C33 in black, interesting combination. It is also sold by a reputable seller I was following on eBay long ago. He got to a new development for DC-DC converters in C9, I think being the only one with that kind of replacement.

My guess is that the SL-C33 differs no much from the top-seller SL-C30, perhaps slight differences on the tuner arrangement and/or timer capabilities. Mechanically has to be the same 711B chassis mono machine as the C30.

Regards,

Gabriel

Noel Higgins
Tuesday 9th January 2018
10:57 am U.K.

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Rich,

The allen key I have which works on the locking pin for the video entry side post on the Sony SLHF100 and similar chassis models is 0.89mm

regards Noel(Betaheaven.com)

Rich
Monday 8th January 2018
7:09 pm U.K.

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Hi all.

Do any of you know what the size of the Allen key is that is needed to tighten the centre of tape guide number 5 on Sony Betamax vcrs please?

Thanks.

Rich.

Noel Higgins
Monday 8th January 2018
1:03 pm U.K.

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Gabriel,

Check out a Sony SLC33EC at https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SONY-SL-C33-Betamax-L750-s-Beta-C33-Manual-24M-warranty/222786335937?hash=item33df19b4c1:g:ZPMAAOSwSeVaKnbr

regards Noel

Lew
Sunday 7th January 2018
11:53 am U.K.

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Hello and happy new year to everyone.

Just purchased a betamax sony c5 (pal) that may be in need of repair (slight loss of picture), does any one have any contacts for possible head replacements.

Cheers

Mike Davison
Friday 5th January 2018
8:59 pm U.K.

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DAVID BRUNNER - Teletext information data-rate is just a little bit too high for the system to handle. You see maybe the header line with some clarity because of the heavy error correction and protection of that information but the rest of the page has less protection and you may only see the occasional word or random character. Take heart, standard VHS had no chance.

Gabriel
Wednesday 3rd January 2018
6:41 pm U.K.

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Betaphiles,

All my best wishes for this new year, specially those regarding good health.

Kevin, I hope that everything is going OK.

Kind regards,

Gabriel

K Lambert
Wednesday 3rd January 2018
9:16 am U.K.

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Let's hope it's a better one than 2017.

Rich
Monday 1st January 2018
11:10 am U.K.

[email protected]co.uk

Happy New Year Everyone!!

Rich.

Gabriel
Saturday 30th December 2017
7:37 pm U.K.

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Noel,

That's quite interesting, thanks for the explanation about these models.

Regards,

Gabriel

Noel Higgins
Friday 29th December 2017
10:45 pm U.K.

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Gabriel,

See http://www.palsite.com/slc35ovi.html

That covers the SLC35 version but there was also a different style version SLC34 here in Australia at least.

regards Noel

Gabriel
Friday 29th December 2017
6:09 am U.K.

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Noel,

That will be of great help for Claudio.

I have also seen the design change on these motor axles from brass to plastic on SL-C20 / C30 / HF100. What it is not clear for me is the meaning of numbers "34 / 35" when it comes to machines.

Are they related to their serial numbers?

Regards,

Gabriel

Noel Higgins
Friday 29th December 2017
4:30 am U.K.

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Gabriel,

I already sent an email to Claudio with pictures showing him the hardened grease corrosion that occurs on the brass gears of the SLC30, 34,35 series machines and how the SLHF100 has a changed design with a white plastic over on the motor shaft so the problem does not occur. Also had pictures of the gear which crack in the centre of the flat side of the D.

cheers Noel

Gabriel
Thursday 28th December 2017
6:06 pm U.K.

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Claudio,

The central planetary gear shall rotate in a fixed fashion within the motor's axis. That's the reason why its central hole is not round but on "D" shape.

If the mechanism is stuck, maybe the central gear is cracked and it eventually jams the other two. But sometimes it's just the original grease which is so sticky that it blocks the whole thing. Cleaning and gently regreasing solves this issue.

If the gear is broken, the best solution is trying to find a good one from a donor machine.

Regards,

Gabriel

Noel Higgins
Thursday 28th December 2017
3:10 am U.K.

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Claudio,

The failure of the black load gear splitting then jamming with the other gears and spinning on the shaft is a most common problem now.

See SLHF100 under technical for information on how to repair this fault.

regards Noel

Claudio
Wednesday 27th December 2017
8:43 pm U.K.

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Hi. I also had my SL-C30E not loading tapes and yes, the planetary gears are clogged up. I disassembled it, but I'd like to know if the black wheel should be spinning freely around the axle or it should be hard. Thanks.

Bjorn
Sunday 24th December 2017
7:53 pm U.K.

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Recapping as preventative by all means, not sure about making further adjustments unless you need to.

Rob COLLIS
Thursday 21st December 2017
7:01 pm U.K.

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Hi all.

I wonder if you can help me. I am about to (finally) re-cap the power board on a Sony HF100 Beta HiFi. Nothing really wrong with it, but the original caps have never been replaced. Some pre-emptive maintenance shall we say.

My question is regarding the 9V and 12V rail adjustment pots - Has anyone got experience of tuning these? I am thinking it would be a good idea to tune these after replacing the electrolytic caps in the power board, but I only have the "operations manual" not the service manual and cannot find an obvious test point to check each rail whilst adjusting the pots.

Can anyone advise on how to tune these rails or whether I am foolish to try?

Rob.

Greg Small
Tuesday 19th December 2017
5:06 am U.K.

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Advice on where to find a Sony (or third party) power supply cable for a Sony SL-2000 Beta portable recorder / player (1982) (with silvery leatherette protective case) would be appreciated.

Ideally this would be a "110 V mains with invertor to 12 V (multi pin / round socket)".

I have the SL-2000 (and one old NP-1 battery pack).

I do not have the Sony AC-220 Power Adapter / Charger.

Thank you for your time and consideration.

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