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Hi all you 950 patrons out there;
I see there dones not seem to be any spare FR-20 boards lying around out there in betaland these days, as I thought! So back to trying to fix my faulty FR-20 board. I would just like to ask all experienced 950 patrons out there one question;
What are the most common faults you have encountered/heard of with the FR-20 board?
I would think cleaning the switches/push buttons along with loose/broken solder joint would be on top of the list. But you can exclude those points as Ive been there/done that! So I hope your inputs can help me look at something that Ive not thought of yet regarding the "diabolic fault" with my faulty FR-20 board?
Thanks for the reply. I've just emailed you some photos of it.
Also, I've managed to track down the correct motor for that Sanyo NX vcr. All working again now but I'll need to get hold of the white plastic pulley which sits between the upper and lower friction drive idlers as the previous owner mangled it up a bit.
I often wonder whether Sony realised just how much grief their sticky pads material and glue they utilised on these beta decks would cause us enthusiasts many years down the line!!!!!
Would need to see a picture of the area you are talking about as I have four here I could look at.
I've got a problem with my SL-HF950 and would like some advice please.
I noticed on the SS-50 board that there were those horrible black sticky pads that had gone hard, so I removed them carefully but noticed when I removed one in particular that I'd managed to break a solder point from a modification to a transistor soldered to another transistor. Now the VCR wont finish the tape loading cycle, whereas before I removed the black pads it was fine. I couldn't make out if the centre leg of the broken solder joint was soldered to the centre leg of the transistor installed in the board. I connected the centre legs together but it still doesn't finish the loading cycle. I also had to replace a link and resistor on the board because the black pads had actually corroded them!
A friend of mine had a look in the service manual and couldn't find any information on those darn modifications. So I now have a useless VCR.
Here's a video of the problem https://youtu.be/cWlhAaf9xWc
If anyone has info on how to sort this problem, or indeed an entire working board for sale please let me know.
Hi all SL-HF950 experts out there.
I have been trying to fix a SL-HF950 that has a faulty FR-20 board. I know this as I swapped the FR-20 board from one of my working 950 units to it and the faulty 950 worked after that! So does anyone have or know of a spare FR-20 board I can buy?
Best would be to fix the the FR-20 board but the fault with it is quite strange as all of the resistors, diodes, transistors etc seem to measure OK as does the connectivity to, from and on the FR-20 board. The 44pin chip 7508HG-536 however did not measure right so I got a replacement from ebay 7508HG-536 but that had 90% of the same reading errors when in place on the board? The 16 pin chip SN74LS138N also measures strange but I think that is mostly because of its interaction with the 44pin chip? The D22 still led on the board is continuously on but all else on the FR-20 board is basically dead (and therefore most of the rest of the 950 unit)? So go figure????
Well any suggested solutions or FR-20 replacement suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks for that. Now is the task of finding the correct replacement😱
Part no is V01100B.
You have the slightly bigger motor for the 6500,53/400,5000,5150 fitted.
I've seen that a few times too. Usually on a Sanyo M40 with high mileage.
They do work OK but are slightly bigger for those later 'M' and NX series models.
I prefer to keep things as intended.
Does anyone know the correct part number for the reel motor in a Sanyo VTC-NX100 please? The defective motor in mine looks like it's been previously replaced and the part number on that is V-10800D.
Just wondering if that IS actually the correct number of motor for this model.
I've found the culprit of my earlier post regarding the SLHF100UB.
It was the torque pot. It seemed to be set a bit too high.
Now I have perfect recordings again 😎
Regarding your post for the loss of colour, I had the same problem with one of mine and I found a generic replacement on Ebay. I now have colour back.
I have a problem with one of my Sony SL-HF100UB recorders whereby its own recordings are unplayable. The picture keeps rolling and doesn't track. Recordings made on other vcrs play perfectly fine on it however. I've changed the pinch roller and properly carefully cleaned the entire tape path with no improvement. The tape counter also doesn't advance when the picture is unstable, when the picture settles down for a few seconds then it does advance.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
hi I have a Sony Betamax sl-8600 and SL-8200 USA it powers on lights up I put the tape its winds I push the keys none of the keys work only the reject tape key on both tape decks . Am I doing something wrong or how do I check and see if the keys are working at all if I open it up . thanks for any help you can give
I'm trying to repair an SL-HF100 that only plays back a black and white picture.
It looks like CV001 on the YC board could be the cause.
Can anyone advise where I might source a replacement? The circuit diagram indicates the original is 8-20pF.
I though it would be.
Glad you've finally solved it though:)
I was finally able to solve this overheating problem in my VTC5000. I first tried to swap the driver board with no success. It was eventually the motor itself the faulty component. I found one with low mileage and the machine is working as a charm. The heatsink is now slightly warm.
Thanks for all the advice,
I guess he must have fixed his issue?????
Can I say one thing to new posters. IF you are coming here to find free help and anyone replies PLEASE have the courtesy to reply or update us on the situation.
What was the seller of the VTC 5000 's E-bay ID?
Was this vcr guaranteed by them?
I do know some vcr's don't like modern digital equipment placed on top of them. They also don't like plasma TV's either. Both causing interference (usually picture) the buzzing could be this or a PSU issue.
I do have an idea what the issue with your non functioning with the Sanyo but if you can answer the above question first this would help.
If you want to contact me privately with those answers then my e-mail is under my identity.
I hope I've come to the right place.
I wonder if anyone can help in a problem I have with a Sanyo VTC5000 Betacord which I recently purchased off ebay a few weeks ago. The recorder I bought was said to have been reconditioned and fully serviced, including replacing idler, belts, etc, pretty much what was needed.
When I received the player via delivery it was well packaged in layers of rubble wrap and newspapers and a cardboard box, so the issue of being damaged in transit seems unlikely. I decided to connect the player up to a large modern TV using an RF aerial cable from the recorder to the TV, and a scart to composite cable to my laptop for recording to my laptop hardtop, using capture software.
My intention for the player was to transfer and digitise aload of old Beta recordings to my computer; the tapes have been stored in a box in the loft for about 20 years. When I finally played a tape all seemed great with all the functions (rw/ff, playback, top etc) working as expected. The only thing I noticed was a what I can only describe as a "static" buzzing kind of noise whenever the tapes were playing, but due to the age of the tapes (alot of em are badly worn) I just thought it was the tapes and dust etc. Over the course of a week or so, I able to record and playback a number of tapes. After a had finished a recording session, I unplugged the recorder and stored it away until it was needed again. After about 3 days of not using it, I decided to do some more recordings, but once I switched the recorder on, put in a tape, I noticed the tape wouldn't rewind, fastforward or play. Normally, as soon as you press play or rw/ff, the tape in the cassette container moves round the video head, but this time it wouldn't move.
I have no idea what could have happened, and as I said, a few days before the player was working fine.
Either the belt has broken or the heads have been damaged. The static noise/buzzing sound I kept hearing could be the problem, or maybe a static charge has gone onto the video heads from an old tape. I don't know. Speaking of static, but since then I have been digitising some home videos from my VHS player to my computer, and for some strange reason I am noticing the same static buzzing noise during playing and playback of the tapes, which as far as I know I have never noticed before of any of those tapes the previous times I've played them. Maybe when I had the VHS player sat on top of the VTC5000 it has somehow picked up the static charge and got onto the heads of the machine, or having the VHS tapes next to the Beta tapes has done the same.
Sorry for being very long winded here, but I'm trying to best describe my situation.
Would really appreciate if anyone can be of any help with this matter.
I've never attempted that myself but there was someone selling these converted I remember on EBay. At a price though.
Funny how only the SONY LED VU meters went faulty as I've never seen or heard other manufacturers having this issue with any they fitted to their machines (VHS and BETA alike).
Good luck with sorting that.
(DOC now set more appropriately).
Last task. Has anyone successfully transplated new 0603 LEDs into the levels meter of a Sony HF950 ? Looking at my board, I can't even see the solder pads that the existing LEDs are connected to - let alone tell which is +ve and -ve.
I know my eyesight isn't 100% but the LEDs and solder pads are so small.
ahh. just found it RV010 on YC40
Been renovating a couple of Sony HF950 machines over the past few months. One was very poorly, but all working now, thanks to Kev and Noel.
One question - is there a way of adjusting the drop-out compensator sensitivity on these beasts? I was hoping for a pot but the service manual does not seem to highlight one. Is this hardwired inside YV40.IC401 ? The picture is great on the best condition tapes, but I need to transfer some less-great tapes and the dropouts are significantly more noticeable than say a HF100.
Yes, I am aware those machines were sold in the MiddleEast region. They are really hard to find and beautiful machines.
I recall having one of those SL-800 SuperBeta units among my machines (not much time to play with them lately). I will double check it is that series and eventually post a picture of it. It might also be useful for this webpage gallery (I would be proud of being able to contribute to such thing).
All the best,
I just read you posting on a "super beta" version of the SL800ME being available.
As you are probably aware, the multi-system versions were mainly sold in the middle east.
I don't really know if such a thing exists but the link only seems to show a normal black 800ME.
I have only seen three machines. Two were black and one gold in colour. (They may have come in other colours as well.)
The only thing I noticed special was that the front cover of the black versions came in a solid black plastic and also a smokey grey see through style.
Tell me about it!!
I've seen my fair share of owner 'calamities' when trying to 'resolve issues'.
Not too mention the amount of factory screws put in the wrong holes or missed out altogether.
Sometimes it's best to leave to those who know what's what and have the experience , but I do understand those wanting to 'have a go'.Just don't complain when other things need doing because of their intervention.
Please do keep me posted.
Thank you very much for that info Kev, it's much appreciated.
The vcr looks to be in good order apart from the power supply problem and reel motor screws being buggered.
I needed to source a top idler for it too as the previous owner had removed the original and fitted another bottom idler upside down. D'oh. I need to source a replacement front tuner door too as it's missing from mine.
Thanks again, I'll keep you up to date with the repair.
The reel motor screw 'issue' I've seen a few times too. These are tightened with a torque screwdriver and require the EXACT fit bit ,otherwise the screw heads get destroyed and, as you've found ,drilling them out is the only option.
If the reel motor has very worn brush contacts ,this could be down to high mileage ,but cold also be one where these contacts had a tad too much pressure and advanced wear, that I mentioned elsewhere.
I know on the couple of VTC M40 's I've received with replaced reel motors (usually the wrong slightly bigger one from the 53/400,5000,5150,6500) and the Hi-Fi(but not picture) heads are showing extreme wear.
I've seen a few NX100 's with head wear too (Which is unusual for a Sanyo) ,but then we don't know ,if or how many cleaning tapes or really poor quality ones were used inside them. I wouldn't have thought the quality of this head disc was any less then the one for the (M10,20,5000,5150,6500),even though it did have a different part number.
Back tension too is important and can limit head tip life if over spec.
Also self cleaning is not recommended by me unless the owner really knows what they are doing. I've seen some really top end beta's (Sony HF100 and SLHF950 ) ruined by this act and those models are not easy to find and more expensive to replace.
Many thanks for the reply.
I've gone over the power board and noticed an electrolytic cap has been replaced, I've also re-flowed the solder on the big black IC thing but still no luck.
I'm getting a reconditioned psu and attached front button function pcb for it being sent from overseas, so I'll fit that and then examine the original power board when I've removed it. Also I need to change the reel motor, but whoever worked on it before has made a total pigs ear of the two reel motor screws, so I'm gonna have to drill the tops off.
Thanks again. I'll let you know the outcome.
Whilst I've never come across that issue with the VTC NX100 myself. I did have one where it wouldn't go from ON to STANDBY.
I would go over ALL capacitors on the PSU, especially the ones near the heat shielding. The syscon board is also joined to the PSU on this one. It could be a failed component there.
As a last resort check the STK7621 IC.
Also the front tape control circuit board check for cracks there as I've received in the past three that were badly packaged and this area took the brunt ,with no obvious outward signs to the front panel.
Let us know what you find.
I've recently acquired a Sanyo vtc-nx100 which has a problem, I think, in the power supply.
The clock and standby light work, but the rest of the vcr is dead. No cassette loading, no reel motor spin on power on etc.
Does anyone have an idea of where to check or what to check on the psu please?
A quick observation I recently made about the SL-800ME : have you ever realized it seems to be two variants of them? One regular Beta and the other being SuperBeta. Just by looking at Google images you can spot both!
Any clue on this? Differences on markets/countries/year of manufacturing?
Pd: an example of a SuperBeta specimen:
Thanks a lot Kevin,
Actually, I was doing some tests this weekend, being the motor itself the one to blame nearly for sure.
Photo sensor fault: discarded for now as I cheated the machine with my hands and pressing play without a tape. No issues in a whole afternoon.
Once I insert a tape and play it, the heatsink gets really hot within minutes. I think I will change it with a donor and see the result.
Regarding the mods, I also changed the resistor from 2,2 to 1 ohm. Also swapped the diode from 3V3 to 2V7 (original is 2V4) but no improvement.
I think I will have the chance to fiddle this machine again in a couple weeks due to work shifts. But I think this would be sorted.
Again, many thanks for your detailed explanation.
In regards to your Sanyo VTC 5000 reel motor issues.
I have a feeling it's the actual motor that is causing your current problem.
You mention you have done the unthreading upgrade by changing out the zener diode to a 3v3 (with black print the original has green print).Have you also changed the R49 fusible resistor from 2.2 ohms to 1.0 ohms on the same board inside the heat shielding?
There is also a reel torque upgrade you can make to R3054 to 120ohm.
You have cleaned the brush contacts and checked the commutator for wear (as some motors seem to put abnormal pressure to the brush area and cause premature wear to some no doubt from manufacture. You will see this from the deep grooves to this area on some. If bad enough it will cause flat spots and the motor will have to be spun up by hand if reaching this area.
One other area to check that could be causing your random reel motor stopping is the photo sensor under the right spool (for the tape counter) isn't dirty with fluff or other bit's.
Also the tape down insertion switch ,you can get too from the base. It has that see through plastic protector over it.Check those contacts are clean too.
If none of these things work then you will more than likely have a bad motor.
A word of warning if attempting these reel motor 'mod's on the near identical VTC 5150.
There were two servo boards made. The early one was fine with the mod's the later one was not. The early board was a dark green print to one side and a caramel colour to the other. The later ones were a lighter gold colour and a metallic green to the other side. The only mod to not affect anything ,if you have the poor tape take up on activating stop is the zener diode one. I wouldn't advise doing the other two I mentioned as this will cause the 'reverse play 'to stop working by taking out a resistor elsewhere. It can also cause the capstan motor to stop working too.
Hope this helps....................Kev
Hi Gabriel and Clive:
Gabriel: There is a couple o things you can try. Will be back later today.
Clive: Will message you later with some helpful tips for your VTC 5150.
Been a bit busy as of late.
There you have it, supercap vs NiCD battery, thanks! Well now I only have to ponder and wonder about leakage in the SL-HF950s? I think Ill go and read some more Shakespeare now!
I have the impression that this "loss of memory" effect can be due to major differences on the architecture of both machines. The HF100 is strongly based on the 711B chassis the SL-C30 belongs, having the latter kinda supercap on the display board for clock keeping in the event of short mains interruptions. The time the VCR was able to handle a blackout was specified at three minutes (from user manual).
However this is just a guess. Maybe a thorough look to the schematics could throw some light into this.
Thank you for the confirmation! The memory functions in my SL-HF950s do not even work anymore, as when I disconnect and then reconnect them straight away to the mains the correct set clock goes blinking 00:00! But it surprised me that the memory function in the SL-HF100 that is just as old, still works? That is, the clock is still correctly set after the same procedure. Does the SL-HF100 have another clock/battery system or what?
But I still wonder why some of these Nicd batteries in some betamax units do leak, but in most others like my units after nearly 30 years show no sign of leaking? Are the NiCD batteries ticking time bombs or not? I guess I will have to wait and see or better yet just remove them? TO BE OR NOT TO BE THAT IS THE QUESTION! ;)
A quick question that some Sanyo expert might find easy: Patient is a VTC5000 in really good condition. Changed all the belts, cleaned the tape path, some capacitors at the PSU, reel motor brushes contact cleaned and all the usual maintenance you can do on these machines. Tape transport is OK after the mod of changing the zener diode (thanks to Colin99 webpage for the info).
Picture is good and stable but after an hour or so on playback, the machine shuts down by itself and after that you cannot make it work again unless you press Stop, which at this point makes a nice tape slack loop while removing it (unthreading is OK, but the reel motor no longer spins). When this happens, I realize that the heatsink attached to the reel motor driver IC is considerably hot!
Could be this fault be developed by the modification of the diode and hence more stress to that IC? I performed this due to poor reel torque at unthreading. May I undo the mod?
Thanks in advance for any insight on this.
I have removed that battery on some HF950s with no problems at all. It is just for clock and keeping tuner memory so nothing critical.
Hi all betafans out there;
I saw on the net that the 1.2v Nickel Cadium storgae battery in the SL-HF950 (top tuner board) has a tendency to leak over time and often destroy the boards in these units beyond easy repair. Basically, often just a accident waiting to happen!
So I was wondering if it would be a good idea to disable the battery and remove it completely from the machine? I would think the battery is only used as backup for the display, timer, clock etc when the power got turned off? I dont see the need to have these "timebombs" in these machines as they only get older and older, and who uses the tuners in these units today anyway? And the clock can allways be set manually if the power goes off!
Has anyone on this site any experience with the Nicd battery in the SL-HF950 and could therefore elabotate on my ponderings?
My first post here, although been visiting for a while.
The Sony powered up OK after a 10 year+ break. So presumably the power supply capacitors are OK. The timer buttons which did work have given up. The capstain or drum speed was a bit erratic, and the tape take up was a bit sluggish. I've replaced the capacitors on the AS3 board and the drum and capstain seem to be OK now. The belt had stretched for the take up drive. I've had some success boiling this to return it to its original shape. Is there a source for replacement C7 belts?
Playback isn't too bad now. Audio seems a bit choppy but the right speed. The picture is OK but for a thin vertical bar on the right hand edge where there seems to be no colour. The same tape is OK on the VTC-5150. Any suggestions on these faults?
The Sanyo VTC-5150 I've replaced the two belts and the idler assembly. Rewind of an L750 tape is around 4 and a half minutes now. Playback isn't bad but I feel that the Sony C7 had a better picture. I think it still needs some more work. I see there's a modification to pull the tape back in faster on eject, which I think this needs as you can hear the spinning head touching loose tape while unlacing. It's also one of the VTC-5150s that has the same rewind lace up bug as the VTC-5000.
I'd like to get one or both machines working at their best.
Just sent you an email for that SS11 board you need.
All the best,
As I was restoring my beloved SL-C9ES, the power supply decided to put a nice 12V on the 5V line.
This let the smoke out of the System Control Board CPU IC602 and possibly others.
So now I am looking for a replacement System control board SS-11. Would make me really happy to find one as I intend to keep this VCR forever...
Hi Jeff old bean and all the other Beta beans still out there;
ITS FIXED! :)
Well for posterity's sake, here we go. The two line problem I had was basically the same as in this other thread I found on the net, that had no final solution to it (as usual!). Look at pictures 5 and 6 below on those listings (given that the top picture at the beginning of the listings is number 1);
Picture 5 shows the ca. bigger line I had on my screen and then there was a thinner line also running horizontally across the screen a little above the bigger line on my unit!
OK, and the solution was to really and I mean really clean the tape path. The tape path underneath adjusting plates 2 and 3-1 (see service manual) on the drum assembly is really hard to get to. And I think that is where the tape had its final problem in my "95% fix", in my listing just before this one! And one really had to look out for those rotating heads, as you do not want to touch them when cleaning the drum assembly. That a NO NO!!!
Also a big part of the solution was to adjust Guide no. 1 (pin. 1) in the tape path. This is the tension regulating lever assembly. It needs to be ca. center to the "shuttle guide track" when in operation (play mode). You adjust it with the adjustment screw in the chassis hole by the left supply reel. You will need the service manual to do this properly!
My next step if the cleaning had not worked, would have been to tighten the spring to the regulating lever assembly. But no need for that, as I now have two fully functioning SL-HF950s.
This the "bad" SL-HF950 unit is less worn than my old "good" SL-HF950 unit. So now its officially my better unit. And just think about it. It was sold to me on ebay as a "for parts only" unit! But then again I had to fix a broken loading mechanism (LS gear assembly), clean it, grease it, oil it and contact spray it with Deoxit D5 and apply Deoxit D100L (thanks 12voltvids) literally all over the place! But that's another story! :/
I used 100% Isopropanol (Isopropanolum) for cleaning. Chamois for the rotating heads and cotton buds for the guides, drum assembly etc.. The pinch roller is another story, there I use a special rubber roller cleaner and cotton buds as Isopropanol is not a good long time option for rubber as the rubber can crack with time if its not rejuvenated properly!!!
And finally. Come to think of it, all these postings of mine started out with a little CV001 Trimmer Capacitor quick fault fix for the SL-HF100 I saw on this wonderful Betamax Palsite. And now I got one SL-HF100 and two SL-HF950 fully functioning units.
All is good in my Betamax world right now!!! :)
Thank“s for now!
Hi Jeff and other Betamax brethren out there
Just for a update. I scrapped the "QFF" as it is obviously a very flawed listing and has "obviously" nothing to do with my problem? :/
So back to just fixing the "two line picture" problem at hand. Swapped first the YC-40 board and then the RP-31 board from my "Good" SL-HF950 to the "Bad" unit. No change! So back to the threading mechanism and heads with a magnifying glass. Whallah I think Ive found a solution, sort of. I found out that tinkering with pin 1 of the threading system made the picture better (or worse). Looked at the Service manual and started the "tension procedure" involving the "screw in the hole" (OK, OK!!!)at the front end of the "skate transport". Fine tuning this with the help of the service manual got the problem solved....nearly! The upper line went away completely but the lower one about 95%. There is still a slight 5% line you can see if you look for it, and you do knowing about its there.
But now the plot thickens. As Ive been using a L750 tape, I then inserted a ca 30min Beta hi-fi test tape. Both the "picture problem lines" reemerged! But as before could then again be calibrated away as with the L750 tape. But not with the same setting? I think I will really and truly clean the tape path again and see if its "friction" in the tape path thats causing this last "extra mile" of trouble Im experiencing right now! Until then argh!!!
Any suggestions from you "beta experts" out there?
OK no problem! I will find the solution to my problem, even thouhg I dont have a Scope!
But to finish the QFF issue, as far as we can.
Regarding, "Connect the 4.7uh o R772 (not C803 side) (RP31 board)"
I would think this means the other end of the 4,7uh should go on the far side of R772 from C803! Hence implying signal path to pin 5 of IC701! Hope we can agree on that interpitation?
Why the lone "o"? An error typing that was ment to be a "to" or "on"? And why mention C803 at all is a mistery to me?
This is difficut to explain in words, but here we go.
When connecting components to one another.
It is sometimes necessary to know which end of the component in question.
One needs to connect to.
IE (not C803) means do not connect to the end of C803.
Which in terms of IC705 means Pin 1.
Then via the 22pf to ground.
However as you have pointed out.
And I have mistaken R722 For R772.
But in the QFF, as you have stated it does mention C803.
So I first looked on the diagram for C803.
The QFF needs clarification
As For Posterity's Sake.
And the Reputation of the Palsite Reputation.
That isn't my responsibility.
Maybe the Keeper of the Tech Records.
Maybe able to throw some light on this issue.
Getting back to your Problem.
If you have a Scope, and having put back the Head amplifier unit.
From the Diagrams.
I would pick up on one of the Connectors.
The amplified output from the replay heads.
To see if this Line tearing can be seen in the video sig.
Most problems with VCRs are Mechanical or component ageing, or failure.
Head issues are usually brought about by incorrect Head cleaning.
Hope you can make sense of this Rambling, oldbean.
Back to the drawing board please! I was looking at the RP-31 board and the service manual and something does not compute with your analyses of the sony "quick fault fix" (=QFF) in question?
R772 mentioned in the QFF that the 4,7uh needs to be associated with, connects (via R734) to the 5th pin of IC701!
The RP-31 board and service manual reveal pin 1 of the IC705 goes straight to R722 and L755 (they are in parallel). Pin 2 and 3 on the IC705 then connect to C803. None of these are mentioned in the QFF apart from the C803 being used as a orientation quote!
Why mention R772 in the QFF if it basically does not matter in your analyses? R772 is also basically the only "original item" on the RP-31 board mentioned in the QFF, apart from the fore mentioned C803 (directional quote item)?
Jeff you do not mention R772 at all in your analyses of the QFF???
Event though Im starting to think the QFF is likely to have nothing to do with my SL-HF 950 problem, I think this very obscure QFF listing for the SL-HF950 needs to be addressed for posterity's sake. After all the Betamax palsite has a reputation to uphold. Dont you think Jeff?
Sorry about the "22ohm" misprint, your right it was naturally 22pf. Maybe the HF-950 alleged "head clog" is contagious? :(
Well anyway I am going to perform the "quick fault fix" operation as soon as I get the 33uh in house next week and we will see if the patient gets better? If not I agree this could most likely be a "heads" problem, even though I have cleaned the head a few times now with 100% Isopropanolum! But these clogs can sometimes as you should know be darn stubborn! But then again I am too.
Until next week then?
PS: I love 12voltvids!
Hi, again Sig.
I have never seen this fault that you are talking about.
Also as previously stated.
I haven't done any repairs to beta's for a very long time.
I would always follow the manufactures instructions.
So fit all the components.
However you are now quoting 22 Ohms not 22pf.
Once you have them fitted correctly, see what the result is.
Have you ever watched Dave (12voltvid) guy on Youtube?
He says that head clogs.
Should be cleaned by offering the middle of your thumb nail.
To the edge of the head drum to clean a head clog.
Do not press, just offer.
He is very knowledgeable on VCR repairs.
Also are Noel and Kev.
Good luck with you repair.
Good to hear from you again. Your are now my offical pal on PALsite! :/
Well Ive opened the RP31 "can". I forgot how tedious it is to get it out. Especially the connectors top and bottom, but thats another story!
I am wondering if you think this "quick fault fix" we are talking about has anything to do with the two horizontal streaks problem I have straight across my screen from my HF950 unit. One streak is obvious and the other just visible? The picture above and below these tearing lines also seems to be mostly intact and in sync with each other! The quick fault section talkes about a handful of lines etc., not quite the same? What do you think Jeff?
I got the 4,7uh and 22ohm for the RP31 but could not find the 33uh for the YC-40, but I can get that later. Do you think its OK to connect just the RP31 and see what happens or will I also need the 33uh in place on the YC-40?
Also if this "quick fault fix" is not the solution to my problem, will it make any dif. if I leave it in the unit. Or do I need to unsolder everything?
I look forward to getting your input on these philasophical Betamax questions! :)
I have loaned out my 950 Manual.
But have acquired from the net a copy.
This mod done on the RP31 Board. A
Appears to apply to IC705.
Put one end of the 4.7uh coil to pin1.
Put the other end in series with the 22pf, to Ground.
According to the drawing there is already,L775,across C803.
You can check this, by tracing it out on the Copper side of the board.
Once you have it out of it's can.
Hope this helps you.
As I was on such a good "Betamax roll", having fixed the SL-HF100 and the SL-HF950 I decided to try to fix my "for parts only SL-HF950 unit" also (if possible?). I cleaned it all up (very very dirty!), lubricated it (very dry!), fixed the loading gear mechanism (was broken in parts). Well to cut a long story short everything works fine now, except for one big problem! There are two horizontal lines tearing right across the middle of the screen. One obvious "thread like" black and white one and another bearly visible one a few cm above it. Othervise the picture is just fine with good colour and detail! Im thinking its a tension issue with the "tape guide path"? But then I saw on this site in the quick fault section the following;
"Line tearing - visible on playback Line tearing can be seen on playback. ie a handful of lines in the middle of the picture appear right shifted slightly.
Sony has produced the following mod for this fault.
You will need:
1 x 4.7uh
1 x 22pF
1 x 33uh
1. Connect the 4.7uh o R772 (not C803 side) (RP31 board)
2. Connect other side to 22pF.
3. Connect other side of 22pF to ground.
4. connect 33uh in parallel with R807 YC-40 board)"
Could this be the fault in question? But the above "solution" is lacking some detail. Guess the 4.7uh & 33uh are inductors and 22pf a ceramic capacitor? But why the C803 quote as its at the other end of the RP31 board and nowhere near the R772? Maybe its just a general direction from the R772 quote? Anyway as I understand the discription, the far side of the R772 (from the C803!) needs to be connected in series to the 4,7uh (one end), the 4,7uh (other end) to the 22pf (one side), and finally the 22pf (other side)to ground? Hope Im not misunderstanding this? Well I am hoping that Jeff or some other betamax expert on this site can shed a light on this whole matter?
hi to Gangey twhat you are seeing on your F1 when playing tapes a lot can depend on the condition of the VCR that they were taped on it also depends on storage tapes can be affected by age but I have at least 100 that were taped between 1985 and 1992 they were recorded on a sony C7 and a sanyo vtc 9300 they look and play back very well on soony C9 and both sound and picture look and sound good I have recorded stuff using a early sky plus box and play back on a Sharp Aquos 37 LCD Tv and I think what I can see is about as good that can be expected but the C9 has been serviced and set up properly and the heads are good I also have 2 sanyo VTC9300 - that have had very little use I fitted new belts and they work very well for a 40 year old machine
Going through my old tapes in recently purchased F1
Some play perfectly and some have noise and top bend and lines across. Stangely though when I adjust tracking it seems to have no effect on picture.
Is this kind of thing normal? Do tapes loose their quality over time?
ITS FIXED!!! :) Turns out it was the AFC OFFSET. RV7 and especially RV6 had to be slightly adjusted to get the colour 100% right. I was checking the signal path on the yc-40 video board when I saw that the RV6 had been marked with a colour pen marking on its yellow top. I knew this must have been done sometimes before I bought it in the 1980s (in London). So I checked it out and "wallah" success! The dreaded CV001 and RV6 must obviously be synchronized to get the colour signal 100% right. OK now I have two working YC-40 boards! Which to choose now? One is only PAL but the other a PAL/SECAM board. Hummm which has the better picture quality? Which would you think Jeff. Guess we will soon find out! ;)
Thanks again Jeff for your interest in this matter!
Hello, I am looking for a Betamax Sony SL-T7ME wiring diagram. Does anyone know where I might find/buy one? Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you!
Well the problem is that the unit starts out OK with a very good colour picture for ca 1 min but then starts a strange cycle? On a ca 5 seconds interval I get a good colour picture but then the other ca 4 seconds these light blue streaks appear with other "colour noise distortions" in the picture. Appart from the streaks and colour distortion you could say that the picture was more b/w than colour. Its like the trimmer is suddenly lacking "colour signal strength"! You could also say it was like looking at a picture from a colour printer that was running out of colour ink, but not quite. Then you also get streaks and colour distortion on a more b/w picture than a coloured one!
Also when I turn the unit off and on again, I get a very good colour picture again but then the vicious cycle starts! Turning the trimmer screw only gives you a b/w picture or this colour problem and no other variation! Its the same with the trimmer on the HF100, there you get 100% coulour or a b/w picture when turning the screw. I thought there would be more coulour variations when turning the screw, but its basically on or off with the trimmer?
PS: I have the Service manual from the net, incl slightly out of focus schematics of the unit. Its often very hard to read values on these schematics, otherwise their OK for chasing signal paths etc!
At the time I changed out all the electrolytic capacitors on the board, so those are "new"!
It has bean Many Many years since I have had to work on my brothers Machines.
One 950 had a B/W problem.
It was an intermittent one.
Once the colour returned.
It could have been months before it went off again.
And couldn't be induced back again.
However I found by probing around with my finger on the Y/C board that the colour came back.
It occurred to me that I was effecting capacitance values.
And maybe one was the culprit.
But I did not Need to completely fix this unit.
It would be nice to Know what you are seeing, on screen.
When you talk about this streaking.
Is it colour fringing on the edges of components in the image?
Or random flashes of colour.
Have you the Service Manual which covers the Electrical Alignment.
Especially the colour section.
The Trimmer Capacitor CV001 change "worked" regarding the "no colour prolem" on my SL-HF950 as it did on the SL-HF100. I now have colour on the HF950 also. I only got B/W on the HF950 original video board before this. But theres a problem, after a few seconds playing time I get colour streaks on the HF950 that I do not get on the HF100. Jeff, do you have any idea on this "colour steaks" problem?
Well as is, my old replacement video board will have to go back into the HF950 as it works 100%. But it would be nice to get the original video board in top form again as a fully functioning spare part. Or vice versa! So close, so close!!!
hi i have purchased an SL-5400 Betamax NTSC VCR with no manual Can anyone can send me the owners manual please at my email Thank you
Just purchased a working Sony F1.
Intention is to export some old video content onto PC , then maybe burn some DVD's.
Whats the best , easiest , cheapest way to do this?
Hi guys i am looking for a video head for the sl-hf100 if anyone got one or know where i can get one got 2 of these videos i have made one good but the heads are gone many thanks william
Hi Rich and Jeff
Well it was a success! The 5pf-22pf trimmer capacitor I got from my "dealer" worked on the SL-HF100. I now got colour and all is well with the HF100. Thanks again Rich and especially Jeff for your help in this matter! :)
PS: I think I also know now what was wrong with my SL-HF950 a few years back! As I also had no colour on that player and ended up replacing the complete video board from a "for parts only HF950 unit" I got on ebay. The HF950 worked fine after that but I always wondered what was wrong with its old video board. Now I think I know.
So I am now in the process of replacing the CV001 on my old SL-HF950 video board so I can put it back in the HF950 to see if it will now work with its old board in place? After the HF100 success, I am quite sure its the CV100 as I had exhausted most other options at the time! That darn little CV001....argh!!!
As all my friends know that I like Sony VCR from the past, one of them give me a Sony SL-C6E.
For the age it is on a very good condition.
However it's missing one thing that I need to buy to try it.
The belt of the capstan is not present (part number 3-659-351-00) and I would like to know if someone knows the dimensions of it because I will try to find a similar one.
Thanks in advance to everyone of this forum.
Not sure if these are in demand anymore , but I have what I believe to be a full workshop manual for a Sony F1 - Anyone need any help?
That's brilliant, thank you again.
CV0001 is mounted on YC-28 Board ( slhf100 ).
It lies halfway along the length of IC 006.
Hope this helps you.
I'll try and find my manual and see which board it's on and take it from there.
I do not know what this trimmer looks like.
But Farnells and RS, have similar values.
Getting it out may give more means of identifying.
Hope again this helps.
Is this component easily available do you know?
Thank you Jeffoldbean for your assistance in this matter. It turns out my old CV001 measures ca. 5pf to ca. 12pf on a m6015 capacitor meter! Taking in the usual static interference with measuring trimmed capacitors the value might even be a little lower than that? So I will get a new Trimmer that goes all the way up to 20pf (not to eleven!) and we will see what happens? I will let you know if this works after a few days but if it does not, well back to the drawing board......video board I mean! Thanks again Rich and Jeffoldboy.
CV0001 is 8-20 PF
Part No 1-141-275-00 Cap Trimmer.
Hope this helps.
Guess we are in the same boat then regarding the SL100, but I have a hunch the CV0001 might just be the solution to our colour problem? If no one on this site has the specs for the CV0001, then I think I will just get a 1-120pf trimmer capacitor from my local "dealer" and see what happens when I adjust it. I would not be suprised if the value would turn out to be +/- 20pf? But then again Im no trimmer capacitor expert so my boat might just sink?
I don't know what the replacement component should be.
I have the service manual somewhere but I don't know where just now. Oops.
The timer works only when the correct image appears.
When the recording is on, the timer also works, but when trying to play, the image does not exist and the timer does not work.
I do not understand where the track control area is located!
The c9 is clean where the tape travel occurs.
Have you replaced the CV001?
Hi Sig Sig,
I have the exact same problem with one of my hf100 's, and I'm none the wiser about it too. Haha
Hi there, Im working on a SL-HF100 that has no colour on playback (all else works). I saw on this site that the culprit could be a CV001 on the video board? I have located CV001 on the board but as I do not have the service manual I do not know what to replace it with? Is there anyone who knows the specs of this CV001 "thingy". Its obviously a trimmer/variable capacitor (hence the CV?)of some sort, but is it 5pf, 120pf etc? So what do I replace it with and where on the net can I get it? So any info on this from my fellow BETA“s would be greatly appreciated.
As some of you may know, I have been wrestling with a couple of very poorly Sony HF950 super betas.
Issue: First up, I had a non-responsive sled issue ( https://youtu.be/DPU5FbRyuVk )
Cause: Blown IC eFuse (PS101)
Solution: Replacement (part is an "N25" 1A)
Issue: Smoking transistor 'Q309' on System Control/Servo board
Cause: Incorrect transistor type on board (!)
Solution: Replace Q309 with correct type
And so... to the outstanding issue - https://youtu.be/_vE96AIYzBU
Does this look like worn/bad heads to you or a massive clog? Have tried IPA, Servisol "Video 40" and no change.
I do have a "junker" Sony SonySLP8800R SuperBeta Player (which I posted about last year), but was unable to fix. As this model is a "player" and has noHifi, what's the chances the heads would be compatible with a HF950? What would be my best technique here? Swap over the whole head drum/stator assembly or perform an actual upper drum swap?
Pics of the SLP8800R here ( https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1uGKMf1IG7ax8mTe7enj4GqRHRFVz1hLT?usp=sharing )
Good to hear from you.
Sadly I have no idea as I have myself yet to venture down that avenue.
Sounds to me like the control track area has an issue. Hence the disappearing image and lack of real time counter pulses.it could also be a transistor issue around that processing area but I would check the control/sound stationary head area first as you also state the sound. These are fully laced at all times machines and cruddy tapes will dirty /block things up in all modes.
Also the timer doesn't work during playback only recording. Unless you mean clock/counter display?
I have a problem with my c9.
When in recording mode, the timer works and the video records correctly,
but when I'm going to perform the playback, the timer does not work, the image appears two seconds and instantly the image disappears.
In pause the image reappears, in position frame x1 the image appears and every two seconds there is snow on the screen and the counter continues without functioning.
What could be the problem?
I forgot to mention I use windows 7 professional 64 bit operating system ,my laptop is a dell latitude d830 ,which has got a licensed windows disc which I bought myself and got it activated. I use 4 GB ram and a 1 Tb hard drive,the bios version is the latest one the main problem is ,I can access the main palsite it comes up okay if I try to get onto the chat page it will not let me .I am using google browser the latest version .I also have the latest version of mozilla firefox, so I am able to switch between the two , I just had given up trying to get onto the chat page and then decided to try this using firefox and low and behold it worked has anyone any idea why this could be regards David
hi to Noel and hello to kevin I hope you both had a decent xmas and new year. OK I have not decided not to go down the scart route instead .I bought a, r f modulator,which plugs into the scart socket of the sky box this suits my purpose of being able to run this into my old dynatron TV.I am going to attempt to add the scart on a C9 . I am desperate to find 2 Hall ,I.Cs 2 of my ,950s have been in good dry storage they were working well before I moved here .I now notice that the head disc does not twitch or rotate slighltly when I switch on . I hope am correct in saying that both C9 and 950s spins slightly at turning on, well the 950s are not doing this, . So my thoughts are the hall ,I.C,has failed despited me cleaning the glue from this part as a precaution well it is the usual thing everywhere I have looked no luck.I do go on a electronics forum and apparently certain computer floppy disc drives also used the but these seem as hard to find as looking for a Dodo LOL maybe someone can help . i lastly am trying to find a supply of belts for a C7 regards David
I have an sl-8600 beta vcr 1979 can anyone send me an pdf jpeg copy of the manual please? Thank you
In October 2017, I asked a couple of questions about converting a Japanese market SL-HFR30 to 230V, and I promised to share my progress with this forum. It is now more than a year later and I was finally able to purchase a machine for parts (I didn't want to part out a good machine, so the search took a bit longer). I have replaced the complete PSU with one from an SL-30, all the connectors are the same and as I already assumed the only difference is the transformer.
I just played a video: the image and sound are good, although the sound seems to be a bit soft. The machine itself is a bit noisy, at least compared to my SL-C80. I think it would benefit from a cleaning, after all the machine is older than I am!
I have recently purchased a Sony SL-C6 MkII from ebay, all good so far!
The machine loads tapes and tries to play but then just rewinds and spits them back out. any ideas on what could be the issue and could this be coaxed into life?
it sounds like something is either slipping or jammed, but as i am not familiar with a fully working betamax player, i am a bit lost as to what to look for.
all the belts (that i can see) seem to be in decent shape, (none of them at loose or snapped)
if i hit the play button as it is still loading it tries to play, in fact, it did play before i could connect it to an output, i managed to get sound out of it before i could get video, but now i cannot get either.
any assistance would be greatly received.
Hi all. I have 2 Sears portable Betamax VCR's, both with the capstan belt literally dissolved. Looks pretty tight to get in there to replace this belt. Any suggestions on how to go about this; more importantly, what kind of belt does this take? Thanks much.
I've made some progress with the C7.
I've changed the light blue Sanyo electrolytic caps for tantalum caps as the tants are specified in the service manual.
I've got the picture and colour back without rolling and wobbling, but the sound has a very noticeable wobble on it. I've also noticed that on most of my pre-recorded tapes that I've tried in it the tracking wheel has to be turned halfway to the left to get a nice clear picture. The factory sealant green paint on the audio/ctl head hasn't been tampered with.
I had a thought that the capstan motor might be failing causing the sound wobble??
Is there anything else I can check to rule out the motor please?
On its own recordings the sound isn't being erased from the previous recording but the picture is being recorded fine apart from a vertical dancing band of colour going across the top half of the screen throughout the recording. It's not present on tapes recorded on other vcrs.
Any thoughts or suggestions in these faults will be greatly appreciated.
I'll take a look on that website in a mo.
I'll let you know if it cures the problem, fingers crossed as I've never ever had a fully working c7 before. Haha.
Definitely 0.47uF 35v. I tend to use CPC farnell who have them all.
So just to confirm the tantalum values... 1uf, 0.33uf, and .47uf all 35v? Didn't know if the .47 might have been a smartphone typo instead of a 47uf or 0.47uf? Stupid phones. Haha.
Thank you for that reply and the information on the vcrs.
I looked at the technical information page on the c7 but I couldn't see what value etc the tants were, so I'll have a look online and try to find some to order, I also think I read that 2 electrolytic capacitors need to be replaced in the servo too?
I'll see if I can get that c7 with the picture wobble working first, then turn my attentions to that t7me.
The other c7, I've tricked it into thinking a tape is loaded, had to hand push the loading ring around the head, it didn't play or rewind, but fast forward worked. The loading ring doesn't come back round on it's own as I have to bring it back round to the eject position by hand. I also noticed that the record sensor cassette switch was bent out of the way and it seems to be jammed into the record over anything mode. It seems like it's been idle for many years.
Yes, they were from Sean, I got some Ferguson piano key vcrs too, but they've basically rotted and rusted away from the rubber feet on the bottom metal panel right up to the top lids. Shame really.
Thanks again for the reply, and I hope you get your US beta fixed up soon 😉👍
I have acquired a Sanyo VCR7250, which is a US-sourced Super Beta. Thing is, it is missing an idler motor and idler assembly (!).
I would like to get this machine going, as here in the UK, it is actually quite hard to do (decent) NTSC beta transfers, and it's the only decent US model I have seen in the UK.
My question is this: - does anyone have experience of this model? A service manual would be fantastic. Failing that, does anyone know whether idler motors/assemblies from any UK/European Sanyos would fit this model?
I have lots of spares, so surely this must be possible. Otherwise, the machine looks in good shape.
oh.. and excuse by (forced) spelling mistakes. The joy of using a "smart" phone on a long-ish post.
The 'pop' was probably C10/C11 in the power supply dying. I believe they are 4.7uF 350v elcos. The originals were only rated to 85c which I guess was a mistake by Sony in the day. Use some dec my 125c ones. You may have now blown the switching transistor in the syscon board Q25. Check the t chemical pages on here.
The horizontal wobbling and tracking- like issues are almost definitely the light blue Sanyo tantalum caps in the servo board (AY6 board?). Open the bottom and unscrew the 7 silver screws that hold the bottom boards in place. Don't touch the red screws . The ones you need have arrows pointing to them. Push the board back and it hinges up. There should be 3 Sanyo tants. All 35v , 1uF, 0.33uF and .47uF. Replace them and you should be good
Regarding Lace up, you may need new belts bit first try with no tape. Cassette lift down with power on, standby off. Press the switch inside the lift on the left - this fools the machine into thinking a tape is present. If the lacing doesn't start, push the lacing ring by hand whilst holding the cassette present switch. Sometimes I push the lacing ring all the way round by hand then power on and let it unlace. Basically 30 years of sleep has made it stuff.
Were these machines from Sean in Hitchin by any chance?
Regarding my post for a capstan motor for an ntsc sl-hf860d, I think I've found the cause, the drive ic may be faulty, so I've sourced some new ic's from Italy, if that doesn't cure it then I have a contact in Australia who will supply me with a capstan board.
The purpose of this post is that I've been given an sl-t7 and two sl-c7 vcrs. The t7 did power up and sort of fast forward, rewind etc, then I heard something pop inside. I've checked the glass fuses on top of the psu and they're ok, but the VCR is dead. What should I check next to get the power back please?
Also on one c7 the picture shakes side to side and the colour comes and goes, it's like the tracking is all over the place. I can't seem to hear any wobble on the sound. I've looked at the technical page for this model and just wondering if those two electrolytic capacitors on the servo board might be to blame?
I'm relatively new to the c7 so I'm not sure what to check for. The belts in it seem fine, with plenty of life left in the rubber and they're all quite tight and 'grippy' as new belts often are. Also the red timer led comes on when the VCR is turned on by the chrome coloured button above it.
The other c7 doesn't load the tape around the head, I don't know if it's a belt driven operation or direct motor as I can't hear any sort of motor turning at all (probably I'll use it as spares for the other c7 if I can get it working properly).
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
This is probably a long shot, but does anyone have a working capstan motor for a Sony SL-HF860D NTSC beta vcr for sale please?
I think your machine has a worn or dirty Audio/Control head.
It is part of the ACE Head Assy.
There is more about it in the Repair Centre.
It looks like an ordinary Tape Head.
It records and plays back the Mono audio, Top track.
The bottom track controls the tape movement.
When worn, or needs cleaning.
You get the results in play back, and recording.
That you are telling us about.
It is most probably Worn.
And will need replacing.
But it is now.
Very difficult to find new ACE Head Assys.
Hope this helps.
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