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Merry Christmas to you, Kev, and everyone else who's been helping me this year with advice and suggestions to keep these wonderful vcrs going.
MERRY CHRISTMAS Beta fans/users!
Hope 2020 brings us just as much pleasure.........
That's good news about the DC/DC being repaired. It is not hard to upgrade the Mk1. Even if you don't add the protection circuit for the driver transistor the case can have ventilation holes added to assist cooling. The heat affects capacitor and component aging and also efficient operation.
P.S. - Merry Christmas to all the Palsite and chat page users from Australia "down under".
Just an update on my faulty DC-DC converter that failed in my C9.
I removed it but couldn't get it open so I sent it off to be repaired.
Apparently it was drawing 128mA. The electrolytics and polyester caps were changed (the transistor and transformer were both ok) and it's now drawing 60mA and working superbly. It's a Mk1 version converter.
Thanks all and have a very Happy Christmas!
Marco, alchool is not very good for pinch rollers, it can even get things worse. There is a miracle product for restoring pinch rollers, it is called Rubber Renue, from MG Chemicals, check Ebay.
Thanks for that information!
It would seem they are very tricky to get open.
I'll report back when/if I can get it open to repair it.
I have found that the easiest way to get the cap off the DC/DC is to mount it in a vice with the CAP (leg side)facing up and use a heat gun to melt the solder and flip the cap off as soon as you can when the solder melts because you dont want to cook the circuit board. Even then some of the leg pins may move a bit and need to be re-seated so they line up with holes in the motherboard after repair.
I have managed to open one "cold" by running a stanley knife around the sides of the cap in the soldered gap, but you need to be really careful that you don't cut yourself if you slip and/ or the blade breaks. Good luck!
Thanks for the advice!
I have a (british!) tape with a recording that is crystal clear, and I often use it as "benchmark", if it plays ok then my vcr is ok, I'll use a similar one for cleaning the heads!
I've played 10/15 whole tapes since that cleaning, and it doesn't seems to get any better...it isn't unusable at all, it's just difficult to obtain a perfect tracking, and it loses it easily. Can it be something related to tape alignment I can try to adjust?
Thanks for your patience!!
I've not got the tools to open my defective one. Apparently I need A LOT of heat to get the solder to melt so the metal cans can come apart.
Thanks in advance
Well done on the former but it does sound like you 'may' have damage the heads when cleaning them.
I HOPE I'm wrong.
They may be blocked but I wouldn't try cleaning them anymore just in case. I always find using a known good tape and letting it play and reverse searching at intervals cleans them well too.
It also takes away the risk of damage.
I somehow managed to repair the back tension arm! I found and replaced the small metal piece I lost, then I moved the arm spring. As you said tension was too high maybe, so I tried to move the spring to one tooth more towards the feed spool (the last one) and now picture is very very stable!
There is still a minor issue with my Beta...after a (too) deep head cleaning with iso alcohol and chamois tracking has become hard to adjust properly.
It may be unrelated, but before the cleaning, the middle position was good for almost every tape, now I have to adjust it for every tape and it's very hard to get a perfect result. In the minimum and maximum positions I even get scrambled colours now, instead of just streaks. Is there something that can be adjusted?
THAT was the back tension arm you've now damaged.
You really need the Sony SLC003 front and back tape tension cassette to check things properly.
There is a felt band that is used for the back tesnon.
You can more a tiny spring at the top of the back arm but I always do it with the felt band. Some models you can adjust this through and access hole, so preventing the reel deck from being removed to do this. Like I said though that tape is essential.
I tried to follow your advices and, clumsy me, I damaged something!
First of all I tried checking the pinch roller...a bit shiny (shows a more polished band, where the tape slides), but not so hard...took it off, washed it with washing up fluid, I haven't got a Dremel for refurbish its surface, mounted it back.
Then, cleaning the rest of the tape path, I found a bit of a little metal "pole" (don't know its name) hanging from a black plastic arm hinged from below to somewhere near feeding spool motor with some springs holding it. That assembly looked like wrongly positioned because in play it wrinkled a bit the tape on the top, so i tried to lower the little pole and give more room for the tape on top, and that's when it broke, plastic holding it was maybe cooked and crumbled with a little touch. I'm with the black plastic arm alone now, since the metal part fell down and I can't find it... Tape plays better than before now, so I think it did actually cause some trouble, but it seems to have some tracking problems...sometimes, especially in play right after some search, picture spins up-down a couple of times before tracking properly. I tried to replace the metallic part with a centimeter and half from a thick paperclip, it seems to hold in place firmly but picture isn't at its best, and I'm afraid it can cause some static buildup as it's not the correct material...
What is that plastic arm there for? What damage can it do running with just plastic and no metal needle? How can I restore its functions? These and many other questions in the next episode of "damaging a Betamax when trying to repair it"!
Marco from Italy
Thank you both K Lambert and Rich!
I'm going to check both things!
I've already watched the pinch roller restoration tutorial but never been brave enough to do that, only cleaned it with a q-tip and alcohol, but it's time to try and restore it properly!
How can I slightly adjust the tape back tension?
Thanks a lot!
It sounds like you either have a slightly too high back tension setting. The back tension band needs a one direction smoothing ,or The tape spools are tight.
This was common on light grey Sony tape shells from around 1985.The spool colour was a pale yellow.
The wiggle ,distortion you mention is the tape vibrating as it goes over the head drum down to one of the for mentioned reasons above. This would also explain why everything is fine during search and pause modes.
That looks like a Sony made cassette. I'm sure I have some 'Extra High Grade' (or whatever they call them), it looks a bit like a Pro-X tape for the SL-HF950.
Your problem sounds like it could be a worn/misshapen pinch roller. The reason you're getting a clear picture in pause mode is that the pinch roller doesn't turn when pause is pressed. Take a look at it and if it's shiny and hard then you'll ideally need a replacement. Another forum member here, Noel, has recorded a short video on how to restore a hard/shiny pinch roller, look in the repair section of this website, I think the video is there somewhere.
Let us know the outcome of it!
Yes David, looks like a TDK one, they used to make this "large window" model!
I'm having some trouble with my SL-C40 and i don't know what to check!
From time to time, picture on "play" looks wiggly from left to right at regular intervals. Picture crystal clear and steady in pause and ff/rew modes...
The wiggling comes with a slight rhytmic whirry sound from the motor I think...what can it be?
Marco from Italy
This tape is a normal Betamax?
E-bay will be your only hope with those as many parts are out of production now and have been for some time.
seeking this part can you assist?
BETAMAX PINCH ROLLER...Manufacturer Sony Replacement Parts Part Number 3-669-438-11 Description Guide Roller #9
for sony betamax video cassette recorder model #sl 2305.
If you go to this site http://www.pre-cert.co.uk/forum/index.php I'm sure someone there will be able to help.
I was wondering if someone could help me price up an old Betamax tape, which is in excellent condition:
Marvels ‘The Mighty Thor’ (1982)
I can’t find a single copy online - any help is greatly appreciated!
I have two ntsc superBeta hifi vcrs that are capable of playing back B1 speed recordings. I don't have any B1 speed recordings to see what the quality is like though. Has anyone in the UK facilities to make a B1 speed superBeta (hi-band) hifi recording for me to test out my vcrs full potential please? I can supply a brand new cassette and pay for your time etc....
Hello fellow Beta Geeks,
The black gears of the shaft shrink over time, split and eventually spin on the shaft and or break apart.
This results in tapes jammed in machines, at which stage many machines get packed away or get a free trip to landfill.
I developed the fix shown at At http://www.palsite.com/100tech.html
The gears have 10 teeth and are 6mm diameter and 7mm in length. The steel drive shaft has a nurled end roughly 2.5mm diameter.
THERE APPEARS TO BE A MUCH EASIER SOLUTION
I now see that white plastic gears (for RC toy cars) are available quite cheaply on ebay that have a 2.5mm hole and 5.7mm in diameter and 4.7mm in length.
In practice diameter is sufficient and the reduced length does not really matter, just use super glue (or other suitable glue) to glue them to the shaft and protrude the shaft 1 mm or so past the end.
If you don't need 50 then look for a smaller quantity but the price does not seem to change much.
regards Noel Higgins (Betaheaven.com)
Regarding your issues with your Sony 950 Superbeta.
Can I also ask that you check the following...........For no playback picture with the tape counter stuck, check for CTL (control track) pulses at Pin 15 of IC302 on the SS50 (Servo) board. If these are missing, check under the SS50 board for a modification diode added between D311 Cathode and Q305 Collector (REG 5V) which may have gone leaky.
I have had one of these machines with EXACTLY that issue and feel that could be what's wrong with yours.
(that issue is listed in the technical area page for this model on this site).
As for pinch rollers 'I've seen many that are shiny with tape oxide but on the Sony's the usual problem is the rubber goes hard. If that is the case then replacement is the only viable option. If you get flex by pressing your thumbnail into the rubber then it should be OK.
Regarding your SLHF950 picture dropping out issue and loss of tape counter/time run function. You are basically not getting the track pulse due to tape misalignment with the audio head.
Preview/review mode gives you picture despite there being no tracking pulse.
Gabriel is probably right with his capstan roller comment. I doubt you can still get new spares these days.
I have found they can be restored as follows which is quoted on my betaheaven.com website.
The beta machine capstan rollers can become worn, dirty and uneven over time and with use. They are difficult to source and expensive when you do find them.
For a demonstration on how to refurbish a capstan roller using a grinding wheel in a Dremel super tool (or similar) see the video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adYr2B0z--c
This will work unless the rubber on the capstan roller has cracked or perished or the support bearings have failed."
It definitely can't record PAL signals, hence why I use a cheap and cheerful PAL to NTSC adapter. I've got a large quantity of NTSC pre recorded tapes and the performance of the vcr is ok, superBeta isn't as good as on a PAL machine. The 950 is vastly superior. I also have an SL-HFT7 superBeta theatre ntsc vcr which is a much better performing machine compared to the other one.
Thanks for the reply. I bought the SL-HF860D from a UK seller who did not mention in the auction that it was an NTSC only model requiring a step down transformer, nor that it cannot record PAL signals via the COMPOSITE input as your post suggests. I got excited and did no research on it being a USA only model. Please confirm that the SL-HF860D cannot record PAL signals via COMPOSITE as I had not realised that was a further restriction. Lastly, do you rate the SL-HF860D or should I have invested in a UK SL-HF950? I paid £225 for it btw. Thanks again
I have the same vcr. It is indeed an NTSC 120v vcr. I use a good quality step down transformer for it. Also a PAL to NTSC converter to record from freeview etc.
I am waiting for my SONY SL-HF860D to be delivered in the UK and have realised after paying for it that it is most likely a USA model for 120Volt supply. Do any of you know how I might use it on the UK 240 V AC at 50 Hz voltage or if it has a switchmode power supply that will allow for this UK voltage? The rear panel states AC 120V 60Hz 45W and nothing else. Any help on using it as is, or modifying it will be gratefully appreciated. I realise I can purchase an external step down transformer but am avoiding this. Thanks in advance
Does anybody know if there is a pot for adjusting the audio output volume on a C7 please? The output on mine is rather quiet.
Thanks in advance
Hi beta fans been restoring a sony sl-c5ub looking for a a.c.e head audio head as the sound is muffled thanks
Thank you for taking the time to read my post and reply.
You're right, the tape counter doesn't function when the tape is running,.
I'll open the unit and have a good look at that pinch roller, I'll post my findings later.
Given these symptoms, you will probably have to clean/renew/replace the pinch roller. Or at least it should be the first item to check before going any further.
Quite probably your tape counter gets stuck while playing a tape and you have no image.
I'm looking for a complete, working servo board for a Sony SL-C6 mk1 please. It's the big board that's on the underside of the VCR.
The previous owner was a bit of a 'twiddler' and all of the RV's have been messed with. I don't have a scope to set it all back up again.
I'm looking for some advice with a Sony SL-HF950.
I acquired this recently after it had been stored away in an attic.
The unit powers up and everything appears to work as it should. However, when playing tapes there is sound and a picture for maybe 2-3 seconds and then the screen goes black and the sound stops. The picture that is displayed looks OK other than some horizontal lines across the bottom of the screen. The sound is excellent.
The tape is still running even with apparently no output. If I hit pause or use FF or RW in playback the picture comes back....
If I put the machine into test mode the test card appears with the tone.
This issue is the same whether using BNC out, aerial or SCART.
Would anyone be able to offer any advice or suggestions as to what this issue may be?
Welcome to the site.
If you look to the top left you will see two other forums Betacam and U-matic.
You query should go there .
I'm sure you'll find the answer you are looking for there.
Hey Everyone. Fancy finding this sort of thing. I recently got ahold of a small pile of U-matic tapes and a player in a warehouse clearance. I'd love to find out what's on the tapes. However, The player I acquired is the BVU-150, and all the tapes are the "large size" format, (such as the 3M UCA-10) that the BVU-150 can't deal with. I haven't tested said device, as I have nothing to test it with, although I do have the carrying bag and strap for it. I will admit, I don't know if the BVU-150 works. But it does open and close. There is no battery in it.
I am in Detroit, USA.
If someone would be interested in perhaps trading that BVU-150 for a player that can handle those tapes (and is of similar performance, preferably) , I'd be interested.
PS: In the same set I ended up with a pile of Betacam SP tapes and bought a UVW-1600 off Ebay to play them, and it worked a treat. Really interesting stuff. I'll probably rip them and put them on Youtube at some point.
Yet another edit to the last post.
The problem was that the video head itself was defective! I replaced it with the one from my other, later VTC9300PN and it's all working ok now.
Very strange as the VCR is unbelievably like new inside and out. Not even a speck of dust inside when I took the top and bottom panels off, and all the metal inside still shines like factory fresh.
I have noticed that the picture wobbles slightly from side to side when playing a tape back, my other vtc9300 does this too, so I don't know if it's normal with this model or if there is an adjustment to be made?
I'm now on the lookout for a new or good replacement video head disk for it, so if anyone has one for sale or knows where I could get one it'll be much appreciated.
Sorry for the ramble. Haha.
Edit to last post;
The sound does come through intermittently at the correct speed. Does the motor speed determine the speed of the audio also? I'm not too familiar with the workings of this model.
Is there an adjustment pot inside a Sanyo VTC9300 to speed up the main motor please?
I've just acquired a hardly used one, with the original box, dust cover, pause button etc. I've changed all of the belts for a new set (only the one smallest belt was misshapen, the others seemed fine with no kinks after being stood idle for over 35 years) and I'm not getting any picture or sound output from it, just lots of static on the screen. The motor doesn't seem to be spinning as fast as my other vtc9300 if that make any sense(?) I've cleaned the heads and tape path but it's no different.
Thanks in advance,
We must have posted at the same time. Good points you make.
Sorry for saying your name wrong down the page.
The issue with your machine seems to be the tracking pulse. You really need to use a CRO in conjunction with the circuit diagram to find out what waveforms you are not getting.
You then need to work out if you have a tape/mechanical alignment issue OR an electrical issue OR dirty audio/tracking heads AND/OR dirty video heads.
Only the signal from a previously recorded tape on playback will tell you. Record issues you can fix ONLY when the playback alignment is right.
The relative speed between the pickup and supply reels is determined back through the reel PWM drivers. Tape position versus the starting point is noted by the timer counting tracking pulses.
The tension should not affect either as long as the tape is not slack and the tape is slack for long the machine shuts down. If the tape breaks it also shuts down.
The Sony SLC9 has some pretty slick circuitry. But I doubt that Kevin likes them yet over a Sanyo;-)
On most VCRs if you put the into cue or review modes (fast foward or reverse with the tape still around the heads you will get a picture even if there is no tracking pulse and this at least tells you something about the video heads and whether the picture is stable enough to show the drum circuitry is locked/working.
This adjustment is very sensitive. You cannot just turn it left or right quickly you have to do it about a millimetre at a time. The tape remaining indicator working correctly from STOP will also highlight if this is correct.
ONLY when it's around 48g-cm will it be spot on.
As for the 'no picture issue'. Have you looked at the soldered connection to the VIDEO IN/OUT BNC connectors?
They are notorious on Sony's for getting banged with leads attached resulting in broken connections to the board and affecting the associated area.
Also are the tapes you are playing undamaged along the edges?
With a tape in play mode, I have turned the RV002 potentiometer in both directions of rotation, on the one hand, the tape increases in tension, turning the potentiometer in another direction, the tape loses tension.
But unfortunately the image on the TV screen is still black.
The counter does not work in play mode, and in Rec mode it does not work.
The rest of the functions are correct, just like previous weeks.
Noel and Kevin,
Thanks for your feedback, it is always good seeing your comments here.
Regarding the SL-C9 's tape remaining feature, there is something that catches my attention: It is suppossed that amount of tape is calculated through the relative spinning speeds of both take up and supply reels (as most modern VHS machines do), so what role is here playing the back and forward tensions on the machine?
The only chance I imagine is that the CTL pulses are being taken into account but that screws me a bit in the event of recording a blank tape.
Any info is always welcome.
For make a recording with my SL-3000 to inject a input to K connector,
what type of connector, or pin plug i needed?
Hi Neville :)
Normally that switch states INput - OUTput - Tuner.
IN is for allowing a signal to come IN from another source.
OUT is for that machines signal to be fed OUT to another source and TUNER is for using the internal RF tuner.
Hope that helps.
Hi at all,
Anyone know on the SL-3000E /UB what is the function of picture selector?
Is in three position, on, off, tuner. Sadly, on the net i don't find a
service manual or user.
Restoring a capstan pinch roller (rubber) using a Dremel super tool, fitted with a grinding wheel.
(Sounds a bit agricultural but it works well) The action is sort of like a lathe, but both the object (rubber) being machined and the cutting element (grinding wheel) are in motion and because of the angle of attack between the two, that
evens out the abrasion over the surface of the roller.
See my betaheaven.com video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adYr2B0z--c
Hello all - its been a while - I have been busy plus traveling recently. (I did not see any Betas in Russia)
Regarding adjusting the back tension on the Sony SLC30, SLC40, SLF30, SLHF100, (etc) the felt band is the course adjustment. This is a pain to get to and trial and error pulling out the reel board and putting it back each time. (unless you have worked out an easier way) I always use a blade to scribe a line on the reel chassis next to the plastic mounting block to show the starting point for adjustment so I can restore the original if needs be.
The fine adjustment is more accessible. The spring mounting point on the "black plastic - toothed pivot arm" is accessible from above using pointy nosed pliers and most times (if you don't bend the end of the spring open when breaking the green glue sealing it in place) you can move the adjustment to the maximum setting point tooth toward the rear of the machine and on average that takes the machine from a "relaxed over time" spring setting of 30gm to the required 35gm.
SLC9 BACK TENSION ADJUSTMENT.
You do indeed have to adjust RV002 on the SS11 board which controls the back tension through the supply reel spool motor. Hard to read an adjustment tape on these machines as the top of the assembly is covered in. I use a test tape prerecorded with a 1kHz tone and test pattern. I look at the tape tension sensor arm and make sure it is not hard up against the main assembly of the pivot arm during playback. The sensor arm usually trembles near to that assembly. I increase the tension until I notice a slight warble in the 1kHz tone or momentary changes in pitch during playback and I back the adjustment off until that stops. I know that is not how they say in the manual but that works best for me. You want high back tension so that you get optimum audio from the now one third width left and right audio tracks plus the guard band gap (compared to a mono machine audio track width) and tape edge ripple, caused by the stress of being used in a misaligned machine, is your enemy when trying to get the best playback for transfers.
Sorry its Sony SL-T9
Hi Every one , I have problem with my SL-C9 during playback picture only B&W. but every thing is working fine ..
Oh and in case you were wondering ALL forward torque adjustments on the Sony's are on the SS boards they just have different numbers for different models.
Here are the details for your Sony C9 reel back tension settings...........
The board is SS11 (directly under the bottom case under the reel spool area).
The adjusting pot for the back tension is RV002 (it will have a small B T near this and is near the centre edge of the board). Don't alter RV 001.
What you will have to do is remove the bottom cover. Place a very small flat blade screw driver in the adjusting pot of RV002 ONLY. Stand the machine on it's side or upside down with a tape playing inside inside(it will still play OK. Turn this pot slowly to the left whilst playing and see if the tape remainder stays lit and it doesn't stop.
If it does continue until it doesn't stop and try the other direction as well but small adjustments only.
The back tension spec for the C9 is 45- 48g-cm. If you get it in this range then all should be fine. There is no back tension band on this model (or the SL1700) as both spools are motor driven).
Having the Sony tension tape (SL0003C) is ideal but not many have access to that but on the C9 when this is correct it will be trouble free.
The back tension spec for the SLHF950 is 40-48g-cm and can ONLY be adjusted by a back tension band (which is more fiddly down to the linear skating having to be ejected e.t.c).
The back tension spec for the SLF30 is 31 - 35g-cm adjusted by the felt band and the forward tension (adjusted by a potentiometer) is 75- 85g-cm .(This pot is usually identified as TRQ but is RV308 on the F30 ).
The back tension spec for the C40 is 25 - 35 g-cm adjusted by the felt band and the forward tension is 75 - 85g-cm adjusted by the pot number RV 309 on the SS 16 board.
The back/forward tension spec on the SLHF100 is 31 - 35g-cm (adjusted by the felt band) and the forward tension is 60 - 80g-cm adjusted by a pot no RV001 (TRQ) on the SS28 board.
You'd be surprised how many are out of spec. If too tight in the back tension area you do run the risk of advanced head wear over time. Always better to be correct.
Hope all this helps.
the pressure roller is checked and clean,
also passed sandpaper 120,
The problem is still in the play mode, it does not take a picture, it also fails in rec mode, it does not record, black screen and counter does not work, it only munitions ok! the remaining tape indicator.
The other functions, Rew, FF, X2, pause, Frame all work correctly.
This has been brought up before but as far as I'm aware nothing further has been done.
I did find some small plastic gears to replace those black ones that seem to split over time for the loading functions.
As for the metal cassette loading for the C9. No.
the fact the tape remainder doesn't work 100% tells me it is the back/forward tension that is causing this.
The pinch roller on ALL vcr's should be the first port of call as, unless in great shape, as you say, can cause many play and even worse review issues to the tape and path alignment.
The rubber should be matt all over not shiny, and have no signs of damp issues ,resulting in small bumps,(I've seen that on a few Sanyo's that have been stored badly).
You should be able to push your finger or thumbnail into the rubber and feel the rubber deflect.It shouldn't be rock hard (Sony's seem more prone to that).
It should also spin free and fast.
I always use a flat piece of 120 grit and rub diagonally over the entire rubber area. Keeping it moving slowly as you go. NOT pressing too hard either, just enough so you can see the shiny area be removed revealing the matt part underneath. Keeping the grit paper and pinch roller flat at all times to ensure a perfectly flat surface.
Hope this helps?
excuse me if this seems like a daft question, but:
Has anyone investigated 3D printing for the replacement plastic gears for the carriage mechanism for C9s, C20s etc?
Or failing that, has anyone investigated a toolmaker who could produce the replacement metal ones?
Thanks in advance,
You should also have a look to the pinch roller. As this element ages, the rubber surface becomes brittle and the machine develops troubles with CTL tracking as yours. Even more, the internal bearing might be defective and could be the silent culprit of your issue.
You can begin by sanding a bit the rubber surface of the roller, quite gently with a soft sandpaper ( 800 or 1600 grade would be OK).
I think this is the easiest (and cheapest) solution you can check.
Yes,yes and E-Bay.
Will get the actual adjusting pot and number for you as soon as I have time.
Does it mean that the tape tension is incorrect?
It's on the SS board
Where do I get that Sony Slc003 torsion tape?
I am in Spain
Your back/forward tension is out of spec.
On the C9 it has to be spot on otherwise you will have tape counter, tape remaining indicator and also picture issues in various modes.
I believe it's around 48gm but will get back to you on that.
I will also find out the adjusting pot. It will be on the SS board. I wouldn't alter ANY other one though as the Sony's are particular in that area if fiddled with.
You will need the Sony Slc003 torque tape for the perfect result as it's hard to gauge without this.
Where abouts are you?
The rest of the tape indicator works occasionally, almost never,
The counter timer only works on Rew, FF, X2.
The slow motion works fully
In frame 1 function the image appears and every two seconds snow appears in the image, but the counter still does not work.
I thought that would be where the issue was.
Weber 1600: One other thing ,does the tape remainder indicator light up and does the slow motion work?
Let me know.
Problem solved with the 950 wobbly picture and sound. The felt on the tension band wasn't loose or missing, the tension was too high. I don't have a test tape to set it correctly but after a lot of trial and error, I think it's set up ok now. No sign of the wobble.
Thanks for that info
Now all I need to do is find out why the VU LEDs have a mind of their own
I have cleaned the heads,
I have also cleaned the entire tape and audio head path,
but unfortunately it remains the same.
Acting on play the image is totally black, if I press pause, rew, ff, x2, the image appears ..
Oh dear. I thought I could get away with it without removing the reel chassis.
I'll keep you posted.
Sadly, yes you do.
I'm not sure if on this model you can adjust this (if required ) from the top with it in situ, but to check it you do have to remove the entire reel driver are.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I am looking for gears for cassette carriage....for Sony SL C9
I get 2 dead machines, one resurrected from dead after days and days of working on it, this second was even worse... but after even more hours of repair I miss this gears ... 3-670-007-00 3-670-005-00
they are so obsolete - any idea where to find them...
Mainly I am using Sony SL C8 for Sony PCM 701ES ! great vintage combination
Thanks for that info. I'll take a look over the weekend. Does the reel chassis have to be removed from the underside to check the tension band?
Yes, that's very odd with the VU meters. Probably something to do with the black mod pads....again(!) Haha.
Thanks once more and I'll let you know what I find.
I have never heard of that but I always use isopropyl Alcohol.
Yes try cleaning that stationary control track/sound head and see what happens.
One other thing ,when this screen goes blank do the heads still spin and the tape advance?
You can clean the video heads with a liquid product called Video 90.
It would be a good idea to clean the heads and solve the problem ...
Your C9 issue sounds like either a dirty sound/control track head (very likely) or maybe checking the forward back tension (which is only controlled electronically on this model, No back tension band) You will need the Sony SLC003 back/ forward tension cassette though.
When the Sony's don't detect a control track signal they blank out the visual altogether.
(One thing you can count on with the Sony's .plenty of grief.)
Your first issue sounds like the back tension band.I had exactly the same thing happen to one I serviced for someone.
You need to remove the left spool and make sure the felt material on this band is going in one direction only. You will know which way.(also when this happen you will see that spool lightly vibrate).
The last issue my own 950 does this with the VU level meter display but sadly I hav'nt got around to finding out why.
It would seem something is over sensitive to the reaction for this.
Hi, I have problems with one of my c9, the problem is as follows:
pressing the play button the image appears two seconds and then the image turns black and the sound disappears. When you press the pause button the image appears again, but when you return to play mode, the image and sound disappear again after two seconds, leaving the TV screen black.
What could be the problem??
I have a couple more problems with my SL-HF950 that I'd like some advice on please.
Firstly, thanks to Kev and Gabriel for helping me out with the disaster caused by the black pads on the factory mods, that all seems fine now.
I'm getting a shaking picture and wobbly linear sound on playback. Recordings made on this and played on another VCR are fine with no picture shaking or wobbly sound.
I've removed the capstan motor, replaced the low profile electrolytic capacitors with new ones, cleaned the shaft and lubricated the bearing etc but it's still doing it.
If One picture searches forward and back a few times then the shaking and wobbly sound goes and the picture is stable.
I'm thinking it might be a torque issue? Is there a torque pot anywhere on it as I've looked in the service manual and can't seem to see one. I was also thinking the tape might be binding on the upper drum, but it doesn't look worn at all to my eyes and the picture and sound are both fantastic with no sign of the dreaded head wear streaks/comet-tails on the picture.
Also, the audio level LEDs have a life of their own. When there's no audio input the LEDs are dancing up and down like a Christmas tree. I've checked for dry joints on the level meter PCB switch and that all seems to be fine. Sometimes when I turn the VCR on the LEDs go straight to maximum even without an input. There are no LEDs burnt out, which is a bonus.
Is this a common fault with this model?
I'm stumped with it now. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I need the schema if the capstan motor, somebody has?
Not appears in the service manual of Sony SL-C7
The capstan motor is a Sony BHF-1100D
Kevin: Thanks for that mate; l will probably take it down to my trusted local HI- FI and VCR technician who has worked on my Betas and old tape and eight track decks. He's also a Sony specialist!
Olli: Where are you located??...
Hello to all, in the Sony SL-C7 when I insert a tape sometimes load but sometimes don't load and sound a treble sound If I move a little the ring with the hand, dissapear the sound and load correct, the same for unload
If the tape is near the end play but the image appears with lines as incorrect tracking, I move the tracking but the image continue incorrect
If the tape is away from the end don't move but continue in play mode, appears a frame in the tv, I will change the play belt
The motor load / capstan is damaged?
Good to see you back.
Would help if I could see a video of said issue.
It sounds like it could be the loading motor smaller black under gear has developed a small crack and is slipping on it's shaft.
If so I managed to source a suitable replacement to enable this to be replaced.
But without seeing the actual 'issue' happening it's hard to be certain.
Hi Noel and Kevin, been a long time since l last posted- great to see you and other newer Beta enthusiasts keeping the format alive and well !
Went to play one the other day and it made a strange whirring sound and wouldn't play. Any idea what may be the cause, and if it's going to be costly?
No Rich, I put a link to image:
In this image is missing some piece or pieces?
I removed the motor load / capstan
You need a circuit board?
I have the SONY SL-C7 I dismounted time ago and now I don't know what piece need
I put image from the piece and a other from a page of the service manual:
That's absolutely marvelous. Thank you so much. If you could send me an email letting me know the price etc that'd be great.
Those mods on the rear do look bodged don't they. Haha.
I thought I might have an SY-11 let over. Checked and found an SY-15 from an SL-C5,, and then found an SY-11
It's 1-601-819-17, and has a brown wire that looks very bodged on the back of Q007 going to the camera connector.
I've fixed my last C7, well apart from the clock day LEDs which take half and hour to warm up before it only shows a single day and not three. So you're welcome to this SY-11 board.
Has anyone got an SY-11 board for the later production run of C7 for sale please? I need the type with the brown wire soldered to the back of the board and modifications to the rear of the board also. Board number ending in 17. I tried a board from an earlier C7 with the part number ending in 14 but it wasnt compatible.
The saga of the troublesome C7 continues....
I managed to change all of the belts (the loading ring had to be lifted by removing two of the three white round plastic ring rollers), idlers, rewind kit and fast forward kit with genuine Sony replacements and now the transport is working spot on, but now when the tape is 3/4 of the way through playing the VCR will just shut itself off. It sometimes shuts off when fast forwarding a tape to the end too. Then it all locks up and no button is responsible until I put it into standby and power back on. Could this be the torque is too high? If so, how do I adjust it, is there a torque pot somewhere? Up until the last 3/4 of the tape the forward picture search is clear but after it shuts itself off the picture search is not clear at all.
Also a pre-existing problem with the sound is still present. Pre recorded tapes and tapes made on another VCR have very good clear sound albeit with some noticeable hiss, but tapes recorded on this VCR are incredibly muffled with his very noticeable. I've thoroughly cleaned the audio head but still no improvement. Is this a symptom of a badly worn head, or could it be adjusted to be more perpendicular to the tape?
Other than those problem, everything else works and the picture quality is superb.
I just got two different of betamax VCR
Fisher Betacord VBS-7500
Both seems to start up but both of the recorders wont accept the cassettes inside at all.
I forced Fisher betacord to open its cassette nest and i put the tape in, but nothing happened.
So are the recorders totally broken not worth of spend time and energy, or is there some
common simple fix to solve thath kindof broblem???
Here is pictures of the recorders
If theres someone needing those models, contact me.
And allso if someone is sellin 100% working betamax VCR with deasent price please make me an offer.
Thanks. I've managed to get hold of the service manual today, so I'll have a look tomorrow to see how the darn loading ring comes out.
I changed the loading ring belt on a C7, and couldn't see an easy way of doing it without removing the loading ring to gain access to the belt that drives the take up spool for unlacing.
Back to my HF-100. I tried a CV01 trimmer from a scrap SL-C20 with no improvement. So obtained a new replacement 20pf trimmer. Again no colour on playback.
Recordings made on other machines play back in black and white. Recordings the HF-100 makes play back black and white on the HF-100 and also black and white on another machines.
I've got a second HF-100,in very poor cosmetic condition, but it does play in colour. If I fit the YC-28 board to it the fault goes with it, so I think that rules out the heads. Something on the YC28 board is killing the colour. The two machines are a slightly different revisions -11 and -12 so some parts seem slightly different.
There must be a knack to it as I can't see how to replace those belts. Haha, such a beast of a VCR, I can see why they weren't particularly reliable.
"FORGET ABOUT IT DAVE", until I have found a working FR-20 board!
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