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Noel Higgins
Sunday 21st January 2018
4:18 am U.K.

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Rob.

Re the SLC30 (and also going by our local version the SLC35 )

There were two types of pendulum arms. The early one without a brace (rib) on top and the later one with a brace rib.

Over time the earlier type bent up and could even foul a spring plus this meant that the gear was slightly angled affecting the teeth meshing with the spool drives on FFD and REW modes.

You can see it by eye if you remove the pendulum. I have fixed a few crudely using the soldering iron/plastic weld technique but if this is the issue, better to replace it with the updated design if you can get one.

The bearing issue does not jam the motor, rather the rotor magnet rubbing against the coils does. If it happens bad enough copper is rubbed across between turns causing a magnetic shorting of motor coils.

Fix this by adding a spacer under the spindle point to return some clearance, cleaning away the excess copper to remove the shorts then resealing with nail polish works if the drive electronics have survived the stress.

Apart from using a dummy tape you can actually manipulate the cassette in and cassette down switches and put the unit is play, REW and FFD modes to check the issues out a bit better. This allows you to also check that the supply wheel has sufficient tension to take up slack when you operate the eject mode.

regards Noel (Betaheaven.com Australia)

K lambert
Saturday 20th January 2018
7:53 pm U.K.

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Rob:

More than likely yes (can you spin the magnet freely without is slightly rubbing on the coils?).If not then you have issues with components on the actual reel drive board and could be a hall sensor on there.

Mike :

It could be like Rob has stated either oxidised insertion switches or the side gear has a crack.

I can sort those out as I have spares for these and the side gear can be repaired too.

The C9 issue mentioned it sounds like the back tension setting is out.It is very critical on the C9. Can you get the trick frames to work? This will highlight even more if it's so.

RV002 I think set's this up and it needs to be 48gm2 and you will need the SLC003 tension tape to check this.

.....Kevin

Rob COLLIS
Saturday 20th January 2018
5:56 pm U.K.

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Hi Mike Franklin.

I have found a few times that the contacts that are meant to signal a tape is being inserted are dirty and need a clean with contact cleaner. Take a look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBvs8vNzWwc&t=634s .

This is fairly simply to do.

If the gears are broken this is a more complicated repair.

Rob

Mike Franklin
Saturday 20th January 2018
5:23 pm U.K.

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I have a Sony Betamax SL-C20 video deck. It is in working order except that the tape window will not accept the tape. You can push it half-way in but no further. I am told by a local repairer that it cannot be repaired because the relevant parts are no longer available. Is this true? If not, can anyone suggest were I should take the deck for this repair and/or obtain the necessary parts?

Thanks, Mike.

Rob COLLIS
Saturday 20th January 2018
12:42 pm U.K.

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...bit more info on my post below

Using a dummy cassette, I noticed when I pressed RWD, the pendulum did not move as expected to the left and therefore the supply reel did not turn.

On disassembly, the pendulum is not jammed - if I move the motor manually, the pendulum moves to the left (or right) as expected which in turn moves the reels.

If I manually move the pendulum left (to RWD position) before inserting the dummy tape, the FWD function works.

Is this the bearing issue? Everything seems smooth.

Rob

Rob COLLIS
Saturday 20th January 2018
11:38 am U.K.

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Hello Beta experts.

I have been given a Sony SL-C30UB and trying to work out what type of "it doesn't play" fault it has. I have read the page on PalSite, but still not sure.

Here are the symptoms:

- Cassette load and lace fine.

- On play, FWD, RWD the head motor turns so have ruled out a faulty hall-sensor

- On play, FWD, RWD the supply reel (and possibly the take-up reel) do not turn. At all. As a result, each operation stops automatically after 3 seconds or so.

- On eject, the tape is not pulled back into the cassette.

I have dis-assembled the reel assembly and cleaned the drive pendulum and used some contact cleaner on the motor. The reel motor (and indeed the whole machine) look in good shape and was told was not used much. The back tension mechanism appears functional.

So.. per the PalSite technical section - how do I tell whether the problem is "drive pendulum ceased (I think this is okay), reel motor bottom bearing, YC-25 PS1 silicon fuse. Or something else?

btw - Where is the PS1 silicon fuse? - I can't find it.

As ever, all help gratefully received.

Rob

Jack
Friday 19th January 2018
8:58 pm U.K.

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Hi, Iíve acquired a Sony SL C9UB which I absolutely love but it has a capstan lock issue (so the tapes slow down, get a wow and flutter in the audio and have a rolling noise bar every two seconds or so). The problem is that I have seen many posts for this issue on C6 machines but absolutely nothing on the C9 so I have no idea how to fix my machine. Can anyone help or point me in the direction of someone else who could? Thanks

Fivos Sakellis
Friday 19th January 2018
12:42 am U.K.

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Hello guys. I happen to have a Sanyo VTC 9455 multi system Beta. It is a very rare Middle East model from 1981 that uses the same mechanism as the VTC 5500 and 5600 UK/European models but it has a damn switching power supply, like the SL-C7. I'm in trouble finding the service manual for this machine. Can anyone help?

Thanks in advance!

Frandid
Sunday 14th January 2018
4:26 pm U.K.

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Happy New year to everybody !

Frandid

Noel Higgins
Friday 12th January 2018
12:08 am U.K.

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Gabriel,

That is interesting. So the simplest option may be to have one DC (5V, 9V or 12V) to AC 3.3V module driving the filament and also a mini step up transformer to give a suitably higher AC voltage into a full wave bridge and capacitor combination to give your -21DC rail. You could add a three terminal regulator but I suspect the actual voltage required by the display is not critical.

You need the display of the Sony SLC9 but you don't need the now defunct tuner.

cheers Noel

Gabriel
Thursday 11th January 2018
5:44 pm U.K.

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I had some minutes to check the service manual:

It seems that the filament needs AC voltage. I am not 100% sure if it can be driven on DC. Also, the segments need -26VDC for turning on so this is a must for using an integrated DC-to-DC module.

Looking at the eBay pictures, the solution developed from this seller appears to be formed by three DC-DC converters. Combining their voltages positives, negatives and playing with grounds it is possible to get all the voltages the original converter supplied. It appears to me that this new board is giving DC to the filament, unless there is some AC-switching we cannot see on the bottom side of the PCB.

I have found an interesting document from Futaba (a display manufacturer, Sanyo betas and other VCRs implement this brand) showing differences among AC and DC driven VFDs techniques. In my oppinion it is worth reading:

https://www.futaba.co.jp/en/display/vfdinfo/vinfo_kudo_1.html

Hope to be helpful,

Gabriel

Gabriel
Thursday 11th January 2018
6:54 am U.K.

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Noel,

Yes, I have been thinking about that idea from time to time. Since the tuner is no longer used, there's no need for the higher voltages from the inverter to deliver.

However, you do need the negative voltage for the display driver as long as the segments "turn on" with a negative rail (around -20V, if memory serves me). Also, I am not sure if the AC voltage is always needed for heating up the filament. I recall having seen designs with DC-driven filaments for VFD displays.

Once at home I will have a look to the service manual of the C9, but I really like the idea of building a "stripped-down" version of the inverter. There are dozens of integrated DC-DC modules at reasonable cost from Digikey, Farnell or RS. Problem is time to develop the complete assembly, which lately I don't have plenty of.

Kind regards,

Gabriel

Noel Higgins
Tuesday 9th January 2018
8:32 pm U.K.

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Gabriel,

You are right about the re-designed SLC9 DC/DC replacements. However since the higher voltage used by the "analogue" tuner boards are no longer required I wonder if just having the 3.3V AC filament voltage generated would be enough to get the display working? Might be worth looking into as a cheaper "replacement" option.

regards Noel

Rich
Tuesday 9th January 2018
6:56 pm U.K.

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Noel.

Thank you very much for that information.

It's very much appreciated!

Rich.

Gabriel
Tuesday 9th January 2018
5:35 pm U.K.

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Noel,

That's a SL-C33 in black, interesting combination. It is also sold by a reputable seller I was following on eBay long ago. He got to a new development for DC-DC converters in C9, I think being the only one with that kind of replacement.

My guess is that the SL-C33 differs no much from the top-seller SL-C30, perhaps slight differences on the tuner arrangement and/or timer capabilities. Mechanically has to be the same 711B chassis mono machine as the C30.

Regards,

Gabriel

Noel Higgins
Tuesday 9th January 2018
10:57 am U.K.

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Rich,

The allen key I have which works on the locking pin for the video entry side post on the Sony SLHF100 and similar chassis models is 0.89mm

regards Noel(Betaheaven.com)

Rich
Monday 8th January 2018
7:09 pm U.K.

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Hi all.

Do any of you know what the size of the Allen key is that is needed to tighten the centre of tape guide number 5 on Sony Betamax vcrs please?

Thanks.

Rich.

Noel Higgins
Monday 8th January 2018
1:03 pm U.K.

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Gabriel,

Check out a Sony SLC33EC at https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SONY-SL-C33-Betamax-L750-s-Beta-C33-Manual-24M-warranty/222786335937?hash=item33df19b4c1:g:ZPMAAOSwSeVaKnbr

regards Noel

Lew
Sunday 7th January 2018
11:53 am U.K.

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Hello and happy new year to everyone.

Just purchased a betamax sony c5 (pal) that may be in need of repair (slight loss of picture), does any one have any contacts for possible head replacements.

Cheers

Mike Davison
Friday 5th January 2018
8:59 pm U.K.

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DAVID BRUNNER - Teletext information data-rate is just a little bit too high for the system to handle. You see maybe the header line with some clarity because of the heavy error correction and protection of that information but the rest of the page has less protection and you may only see the occasional word or random character. Take heart, standard VHS had no chance.

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